You are correct about keep the metal covered not only for looks but a bit of safety as well not to be cut up by sharp edges. Also losing weight is a great way make things not only faster but in my case fuel mileage. Be safe as always.
Aluminum sheet door panels, smaller door speakers, take the jute from under the carpet put carpet back in, remove HVAC including condenser and compressor. Still clean looking but you’ll get to save a lot of weight while still satisfying some of your visual needs!
Don't forget the factory glass is going to be quite a bit of weight. You won't need the the mechanisms to raise and lower the passenger window or open the windows in the back. Fiberglass or carbon fiber front clip and hood is going to be substantial. 4,800 pounds seems easy to get too, expensive (probably) but easy.
Would be easy to drop another 3-5 hundred pound even after the cage if you just get rid of all the "creature comforts" but I do agree having it look semi stock is nice!
@@v8packard they can. On a truck like this it would be heavier than a fox cage of the same level. But I'd bet you could get an 8.50 cert cage in this truck that the bars weigh less than 100lbs.
i know there is a long. long way to go on this project, but given your fearlessness in trying new things, i'd like to see you tackle making a fiberglass of carbon fiber hood for the ugly truck. There are a few companies out there that sell the supplies, and it doesn't look that hard.
Oh NO LT! I love that car! Mustangs are great little race cars. Especially with an engine that wasn't supposed to be in there. Think 7.3L for it and not the Chevy 8.1. Does anyone make carbon fiber doors? You'll have a full cage so you wont need the said impact safety of steel doors. Lexan windows... It NEVER stops! Next thing you know, you've got a pro mod pickup and you're on NPK!
You can get rid of some of the weight by going to a lighter wheel setup and that would also help with rotating mass maybe a lighter break package as well still several ways to get some weight off the truck
LT reducing weigh 100 lbs is good for 1/10th of a second. I know it's accurate because years ago my friend and I bracket raced. I drove the car until I talked him into trying it. Within 2 lbs, I weighed 100 lbs more than him (skinny guy in a wheel chair). I used get back in the car and make a pass when he thought something might be wrong. I was exactly 1/10th slower every time. It's pretty common knowledge. Many years later I worked with tuning an NHRA Top Alcohol Funny Car. I used a Computech RaceAir Pro weather analyzer. It's not cheap but you really learn the impact the weather has on your expected ET. It also has a ton of motorsports math in it. They sell the math part on a disc. It used to be about $50. I think you will find your biggest reduction in gear ratio and torque conveter. GOOD LUCK!!
Have you thought of tubbingout the rear and running a 33x14.50R15 in the rear? The math is almost exact with a 3.31 gear on a 28" front and a rear 33" with a 3.91 gear and that would give you a lot of tire on the ground. it would also be a very interesting look to a 4x4 truck!
You considered doing fiberglass bedsides and removing the bed floor, inner tubs and bed side walls from the bed itself and building a tubular structure like the diesel truck guys do? You could even save weight by getting carbon or fiberglass fenders, hood and bumper or a one piece front end with a removable hood! I’m pretty sure I’ve seen companies like Artfiberglass auto body making those pieces for 99-02 & 03-07 Silverados. Just a thought, since it is going to be a race truck.
Can always pull that passenger seat back out if you get one more track run this fall. Especially since you trailer that truck to the track. I think LVMS runs midnight street drags through the fall and then you get the cool desert evening air for better DA as well.
Man I remember back in the 90's when HotRod magazine figured out that every 100lbs was worth about 1/10th of a second by cutting up an old big block Ltd or something?!? Lol keep it up man!! I'd like to shave some weight from my 8.1 suburban, but it's my tow vehicle.
In the process of building my own center console, and switching over to a winters gated shifter. Currently saving up for a mid or long travel suspension. So of course we're taking our builds in different direction's. I really did want to go with a full OEM center console out of a Denali in the beginning. But I cant justify the prices people are wanting for something thats not complete and going to take at least a full weekend if not more in restoring because it sat out in the elements in a junk yard or was involved in a wreck. I did spend some time in local junk yards looking for one in the beginning. But everyone is parts guy now and yanking these things to sell online.
What weight you cannot remove, shift it to where it may benefit your ability to gain traction. Re: move your battery rearward. Ditch the factory fuel tank and place a fuel cell over your rear axle.
Race truck or Street truck? it really can't be both with the ETs you want to run. Carrying around 4wd parts means you need more HP to overcome that. You need to GUT the truck of All unnecessary items you don't need to race. (carpets, stock seats, dash and all thats behind it, airbags, interior panels, glass, accuaters, And if you can, metal bumpers and metal hood.) There's probably more but at this moment I can't think of any.
I've been trying to get him to drop the acc belt, electric water pump and power steering with a low 454 alternator for over a year. Lolol, he leaves power everywhere. He just sat on raylar for several weeks, I'd have been pulling numbers the next weekend but I'm a little excitable. I did a kryptonite upper control arm set at 9am in a driveway done by 1 for instance. So he's probably got something going he's just not sharing with the rest of the class.
I've seen some of the trucks built for pulling keep just the outer bed sides and cutout the inner bed sides and floor and then just add in some bracing to keep the outer bed skins overall shape, just a thought though.
Now I realize why my '00 weighs next to nothing...mostly bare from the factory, I just got rid of the back seat and carpet because that's where the wonderful "old truck smell" lives. With the 5.3 I could probably get it under 4000lbs! You should look into a lithium battery - I replaced my 50lb lead acid brick with 10lbs of lithium and it works better than ever before.
Remove the passenger side airbag and side pillar airbags if equipped. Silicone all the windows closed except the drivers. Then remove any of the components related to the widow moving up and down, including wires.
You need to find a Silverado protech bed they were made of a composite material that was a lot lighter than the factory bed that were made out of metal
I'd like that Denali console in my Yukon. When you put the motor in are you going to swap the wheels out for a lightweight track pack? For every 100lbs is worth a tenth and one lbs of rotational mass is equal to four or six lbs. You really start making improvements when you start dropping unsprung weight.
LT I probably missed it but what is the reasoning for doing a manual 4x4 instead of the AWD? Also for weight savings it seems like you are removing the HVAC and the radio so all that wiring mess will be gone. I would suggest a fuel cell and relocating the battery out back. Fuel cell is going to help the weight and you can relocate it to a better spot and the battery is going to help rear weight. Roll pan and no tail gate too? Or one of those bully dog tail gates?
My plan is to use a floor shift 4x4 case for the drag strip so I can do a RWD burnout to heat the tires, and then leave in 4x. Plus, I am worries the NV149 won’t hold up to 1,600hp and 2,000lb.ft.
The 4wd and cage going to be the real weight killers. Most trucks around your goal power level are 2wd, you are going to need some big $$$$ parts to hold up to that.
At this point you should have just removed everything and had a shell of a dash nothing behind it cut the bed up to nothing but bed sides. It’s like a half ass weight savings. You either go full racetruck or you don’t and keep all the comforts.
Is it possible to run a beefed up Ford 8.8 instead of a narly 9" that you'll probably lose power through? I'm just thinking that you'll add the front differential and maybe be able to save some weight and money going with the 8.8 and 4 link? 🤔
Cut up all the insides of the door frames and the excess threads on the bolts where you can the inside of the tailgate the inside of the bed anything that isn’t structural I would cut up you’d be surprised every little metal piece adds up quick, could be another 100 maybe 200 pounds just going through the whole truck drilling holes where you can
Well your converting it to 4wd so that's adding a lot of weight. If you really want to shed some pounds; remove both front and rear bumpers, the spare tire, any hitch that's on the back, and foot rack on the bottom, and don't make it 4wd but get huge rear slicks, pull the hood put in a Carbon Fiber 1 and cut out the bed,get a fuel cell, put in a race seat and that right there is worth 500lbs + easy.
Hey lt I saw that Denali counsel swap and was wondering what kind of time and money it took to do that is like to be able to do something like that in my truck
Man original door weight 96lbs. After I gutted my doors got them down to 52lbs each. I was 4820 before I started weight reduction in my 06 rcsb 4x4. Still have not weighed since removing everything
If you're looking to ditch a bunch of weight, take the bed off. That's a much larger amount of weight and theoretically, you can take it off and put it back on.
Seems like it'd be a lot more fun if you didn't gut everything to make it and all out race vehicle yes I understand putting a cage in it but leave it full interior HVAC etc lot more impressive when it's a fast vehicle and it's full interior heat AC everything
About the plastics: Man, I'm with you, I hate a bare interior.
You are correct about keep the metal covered not only for looks but a bit of safety as well not to be cut up by sharp edges.
Also losing weight is a great way make things not only faster but in my case fuel mileage.
Be safe as always.
I love the little mustang. I think it adds a bit of variety to the channel and shows off all your skills regardless of vehicle.
Aluminum sheet door panels, smaller door speakers, take the jute from under the carpet put carpet back in, remove HVAC including condenser and compressor. Still clean looking but you’ll get to save a lot of weight while still satisfying some of your visual needs!
Could ditch the door speakers all together and just put a bluetooth speaker in there.
@@c0c0asauce very true good point. Then he could take out the radio and radio wiring more weight saving!
Keep the HVAC and use the AC to cool an air to water intercooler. That's the real answer.
I am looking forward to see how fast you can get this truck to go.
Don't forget the factory glass is going to be quite a bit of weight. You won't need the the mechanisms to raise and lower the passenger window or open the windows in the back. Fiberglass or carbon fiber front clip and hood is going to be substantial. 4,800 pounds seems easy to get too, expensive (probably) but easy.
Those model trucks don't have rear window regulators for extended cabs.
@@MrMK211516 Yes, they are the pop open. Replace the glass and remove the pop open hardware and hinge.
Would be easy to drop another 3-5 hundred pound even after the cage if you just get rid of all the "creature comforts" but I do agree having it look semi stock is nice!
LT, your passion for big ol Ugly Truck shows. I can’t wait to see this monster completed and smoking 10’s down the track.
So when you drop the new engine, it’s safe to say you might get into the deep 9’s meaning all the weight will have to go back due to cage
Cage weight is a lot different, and if you're smart enough to use chromoly you can get a funny car cage your mother could pick up with one hand.
@@Prestiged_peck 👀
Traction and suspension dynamics make that tricky.
You have to tig weld chrome moly.
@@v8packard they can. On a truck like this it would be heavier than a fox cage of the same level. But I'd bet you could get an 8.50 cert cage in this truck that the bars weigh less than 100lbs.
i know there is a long. long way to go on this project, but given your fearlessness in trying new things, i'd like to see you tackle making a fiberglass of carbon fiber hood for the ugly truck. There are a few companies out there that sell the supplies, and it doesn't look that hard.
You can also calculate in the aluminum heads on the bigger engine. On big block chevys it's 90#.
Really liked the look of it complete. I understand the goal but I liked the sleeper look with full interior
Oh NO LT! I love that car! Mustangs are great little race cars. Especially with an engine that wasn't supposed to be in there. Think 7.3L for it and not the Chevy 8.1. Does anyone make carbon fiber doors? You'll have a full cage so you wont need the said impact safety of steel doors. Lexan windows... It NEVER stops! Next thing you know, you've got a pro mod pickup and you're on NPK!
You can get rid of some of the weight by going to a lighter wheel setup and that would also help with rotating mass maybe a lighter break package as well still several ways to get some weight off the truck
LT reducing weigh 100 lbs is good for 1/10th of a second. I know it's accurate because years ago my friend and I bracket raced. I drove the car until I talked him into trying it. Within 2 lbs, I weighed 100 lbs more than him (skinny guy in a wheel chair). I used get back in the car and make a pass when he thought something might be wrong. I was exactly 1/10th slower every time. It's pretty common knowledge.
Many years later I worked with tuning an NHRA Top Alcohol Funny Car. I used a Computech RaceAir Pro weather analyzer. It's not cheap but you really learn the impact the weather has on your expected ET. It also has a ton of motorsports math in it. They sell the math part on a disc. It used to be about $50.
I think you will find your biggest reduction in gear ratio and torque conveter. GOOD LUCK!!
Have you thought of tubbingout the rear and running a 33x14.50R15 in the rear? The math is almost exact with a 3.31 gear on a 28" front and a rear 33" with a 3.91 gear and that would give you a lot of tire on the ground. it would also be a very interesting look to a 4x4 truck!
I have always loved the look of that gen mustang.
In this episode, we undo all the cool interior upgrades! :D
hahaha, i thought the same thing
I did race seats and I bolted the 4 point harness to to the mounting bolts for the seats
Hey, I love that New Edge! So keep on keeping on!
What’s the plastic trim you but in the middle console call that’s hard to find?
You considered doing fiberglass bedsides and removing the bed floor, inner tubs and bed side walls from the bed itself and building a tubular structure like the diesel truck guys do? You could even save weight by getting carbon or fiberglass fenders, hood and bumper or a one piece front end with a removable hood! I’m pretty sure I’ve seen companies like Artfiberglass auto body making those pieces for 99-02 & 03-07 Silverados. Just a thought, since it is going to be a race truck.
Thank you for weighing that stuff it's good to know this information and I do the same thing on my car
Can always pull that passenger seat back out if you get one more track run this fall. Especially since you trailer that truck to the track. I think LVMS runs midnight street drags through the fall and then you get the cool desert evening air for better DA as well.
attentively sticking around for the mustang build. mustangs with chevrolet motors is just 👌👌👌
Man I remember back in the 90's when HotRod magazine figured out that every 100lbs was worth about 1/10th of a second by cutting up an old big block Ltd or something?!? Lol keep it up man!! I'd like to shave some weight from my 8.1 suburban, but it's my tow vehicle.
Great video LT, Well done.
LT, use the Holley dash mount that replaces the airbag key spot. Clean factory look if your still using the small screen that is.
In the process of building my own center console, and switching over to a winters gated shifter. Currently saving up for a mid or long travel suspension. So of course we're taking our builds in different direction's. I really did want to go with a full OEM center console out of a Denali in the beginning. But I cant justify the prices people are wanting for something thats not complete and going to take at least a full weekend if not more in restoring because it sat out in the elements in a junk yard or was involved in a wreck. I did spend some time in local junk yards looking for one in the beginning. But everyone is parts guy now and yanking these things to sell online.
What weight you cannot remove, shift it to where it may benefit your ability to gain traction.
Re: move your battery rearward. Ditch the factory fuel tank and place a fuel cell over your rear axle.
don't forget it's going to be all wheel drive. not as crucial as it would be in a rear wheel drive vehicle.
Great video LT!!
Race truck or Street truck? it really can't be both with the ETs you want to run. Carrying around 4wd parts means you need more HP to overcome that. You need to GUT the truck of All unnecessary items you don't need to race. (carpets, stock seats, dash and all thats behind it, airbags, interior panels, glass, accuaters, And if you can, metal bumpers and metal hood.) There's probably more but at this moment I can't think of any.
I've been trying to get him to drop the acc belt, electric water pump and power steering with a low 454 alternator for over a year. Lolol, he leaves power everywhere. He just sat on raylar for several weeks, I'd have been pulling numbers the next weekend but I'm a little excitable. I did a kryptonite upper control arm set at 9am in a driveway done by 1 for instance. So he's probably got something going he's just not sharing with the rest of the class.
Remove the exterior trim, spare wheel and the mechanism to hold it. Also replace bumper with plastic roll pan. Keep up the good work 👍
Love my Yank triple disc converter I have it lock up in 3rd it like hitting a scramble button
I've seen some of the trucks built for pulling keep just the outer bed sides and cutout the inner bed sides and floor and then just add in some bracing to keep the outer bed skins overall shape, just a thought though.
Very cool can’t wait to see this progression
Can also do a roll pan lose some weight thares and a fiber glass or carbon hood.
Uncle Tony style...drill various diameter holes in structurally unimportant areas.
Good to see you drop the weight. However, my extended cab needs the the console and dash pieces. Please sell them to me
.
Crazy good stuff happening go LT
Now I realize why my '00 weighs next to nothing...mostly bare from the factory, I just got rid of the back seat and carpet because that's where the wonderful "old truck smell" lives. With the 5.3 I could probably get it under 4000lbs! You should look into a lithium battery - I replaced my 50lb lead acid brick with 10lbs of lithium and it works better than ever before.
i bent my 4x4 shifter with the escalade center console, also shaved the knob down on a belt sander
Spare tire and end gate is 200 lbs
Already no spare tire
You will reach the 9's easily with the new engine.
0.088 seconds is also smaller than the amount of ET that was robbed of you by the elevation at Las Vegas.
At sea level, you are well into 10s already.
LT what cha want for that center console
Really cool build
every 100 pounds removed is worth 1 tenth of a second off your 1/4 time
No mild steel cage for UT.... aluminum drive shaft yet?
You can pull the passenger seat at the track before you run again
Remove the passenger side airbag and side pillar airbags if equipped.
Silicone all the windows closed except the drivers. Then remove any of the components related to the widow moving up and down, including wires.
Totally thought you'd have grabbed a jump seat, at least 3 seat belt bench that can fit a flat 8" sub in the lock box that way.
You need to find a Silverado protech bed they were made of a composite material that was a lot lighter than the factory bed that were made out of metal
Heck yeah can't wait to see this thing rip!!
Great job LT👍👍
I'd like that Denali console in my Yukon. When you put the motor in are you going to swap the wheels out for a lightweight track pack? For every 100lbs is worth a tenth and one lbs of rotational mass is equal to four or six lbs. You really start making improvements when you start dropping unsprung weight.
I have a set of 15” drag wheels for the back now, and when we go 4x4 it’ll have 17” drag wheels all the way around
I would love to get rid of my center co console but I have a shifter there anyways but our dash is quite similar.
Rear roll pan will save a lot of wt. Fiber glass hood
Set the tune to lock the converter on 3rd gear shift and hold on 👍🏻
LT I probably missed it but what is the reasoning for doing a manual 4x4 instead of the AWD?
Also for weight savings it seems like you are removing the HVAC and the radio so all that wiring mess will be gone. I would suggest a fuel cell and relocating the battery out back. Fuel cell is going to help the weight and you can relocate it to a better spot and the battery is going to help rear weight. Roll pan and no tail gate too? Or one of those bully dog tail gates?
My plan is to use a floor shift 4x4 case for the drag strip so I can do a RWD burnout to heat the tires, and then leave in 4x. Plus, I am worries the NV149 won’t hold up to 1,600hp and 2,000lb.ft.
@@LawrenceTolman Ah good point did not think of that.
Ooof, hurt to see that sweet center console setup go. I always really liked that part.
_FMG_
agreed, that was my favorite part of the interior
I need the cupholder for my Yukon denali and the bezel
Hey Lawrence, I installed my Denali console with floor mounted 4x4 shifer, and I didn't notch the console to make it work.
The 4wd and cage going to be the real weight killers. Most trucks around your goal power level are 2wd, you are going to need some big $$$$ parts to hold up to that.
good work LT... every 100lbs is .1 sec in the 1/4 mile...
You should be building a single cab
At this point you should have just removed everything and had a shell of a dash nothing behind it cut the bed up to nothing but bed sides. It’s like a half ass weight savings. You either go full racetruck or you don’t and keep all the comforts.
I thought the stock Silverado LS extended cab 1500 was sub 4600 lbs. Do the big block, turbo, and dubs really add 600 lbs?
LT I'll keep my fingers crossed for 10s passes.
Is it possible to run a beefed up Ford 8.8 instead of a narly 9" that you'll probably lose power through? I'm just thinking that you'll add the front differential and maybe be able to save some weight and money going with the 8.8 and 4 link? 🤔
I LOVE this channel!!!
Maybe you can replace the bed floor and wheel wheels with aluminum?
I’d like to buy the center console
What about lexan rear windows
What are the part number for the spindles
I think you can drop 120 pounds without too much issues. But once you get 1700 ponies in that thing, oh man she’ll be ripping more than just 10’s
Hopefully! The end goal is mid 8s
@@LawrenceTolman that would be so sick! I would love to see some “when you think your fast and this happens” videos 😂
Can you put a link to the block off for the center console please
Hey what are you gonna be doing with the old center console are you willing to sell it?
Cage is going to look sick
Hey LT, I’ll buy those front seats and console !
You'll be in the tens easily with those modifications
I wonder... What do those rare composite GMT800 beds weigh compared to the steel ones?
no idea on the weight of those, but pretty sure somebody makes fiberglass body parts for thest that would shave a TON of weight
Cut up all the insides of the door frames and the excess threads on the bolts where you can the inside of the tailgate the inside of the bed anything that isn’t structural I would cut up you’d be surprised every little metal piece adds up quick, could be another 100 maybe 200 pounds just going through the whole truck drilling holes where you can
Looked like your tail gate was up at 1:18, would you have hit the 10's is it was down better yet removed.
I love the mustang!
What's a inside race truck???
Well your converting it to 4wd so that's adding a lot of weight. If you really want to shed some pounds; remove both front and rear bumpers, the spare tire, any hitch that's on the back, and foot rack on the bottom, and don't make it 4wd but get huge rear slicks, pull the hood put in a Carbon Fiber 1 and cut out the bed,get a fuel cell, put in a race seat and that right there is worth 500lbs + easy.
Hey lt I saw that Denali counsel swap and was wondering what kind of time and money it took to do that is like to be able to do something like that in my truck
Tub that truck and leave it 2wd.
I would ditch the rear bumper and add a roll pan if I was you! You’ll save probably 50 pounds and they look good on these trucks lowered.
Can you lock the converter in third and fourth gear on the track?
Not with my current converter, the torque would smoke the single disc clutch in there. But if I put in a triple disc, it should do just fine
I know that I took all the back seats out of my envoy with a 5.3 and it’s a lot snappiers you can feel it .
What transfer case are you going to use on the Ugly Truck, NP249 Quadra-Trac AWD case ?
my plan is an NP261, just a straight manual floor shift 4x4 case at first
Man original door weight 96lbs. After I gutted my doors got them down to 52lbs each. I was 4820 before I started weight reduction in my 06 rcsb 4x4. Still have not weighed since removing everything
Where did you or what did you get the aluminum spindles off of?I'm considering those for my truck
they're from Wicked Fabrications
What about W/T doors to get manual windows? I guess while we are hypothetical, what about Carbon doors?
I’d hate to see how much Carbon doors cost lol… I’ve heard a couple grand for a pair.
Sad to see the Denali console go, it looks so nice.
I know, I was bummed.
@@LawrenceTolman because race truck
Nice build Lawrence, what gear are you using, for every 100 pounds you take off that’s a tenth off your time
3.42 gears in it
@@LawrenceTolman do you think a 3.73 gear might get you where you want to be?
If you're looking to ditch a bunch of weight, take the bed off. That's a much larger amount of weight and theoretically, you can take it off and put it back on.
You should nickname your new engine copper top, because of the color of the top of the pistons in the new engine.
Seems like it'd be a lot more fun if you didn't gut everything to make it and all out race vehicle yes I understand putting a cage in it but leave it full interior HVAC etc lot more impressive when it's a fast vehicle and it's full interior heat AC everything