Definitely hear you on that. Did you see our rubber floor removal video? Those were my feelings as well. Glad you got it done. On to the next thing! ua-cam.com/video/hWccHk-krjo/v-deo.html
@@bussedamove Yes I did watch your video. In a twisted way I was relieved - I thought I was doing something wrong...no it's just quite a project to get that floor up. We polled some friends about what to name our bus. One was BusTaMove. But seeing you already snagged that we will have work with the other suggestions. Go Birds!!!
We got half the rubber off it only took us an hour we used a roof scraper man it look great. One person scrapes one person pulled on it. Now the center aisle that's a different story we are at the last six feet and it is using crowbar to Chisel it up and the other side looks like it'll come up okay but we are not giving up. Awesome videos keep them up
Your video was very helpful to me, especially the part about reinforcing the floor in certain heavy traffic areas. That’s the first time I have heard any builder discuss this, which is odd since it seems like a very basic need in a moving vehicle. It seems to me that all the jiggling, bouncing, and shifting motion of the bus will eventually affect anything inside, including where all the parts are attached to each other. Good job and best wishes.
Thank you for saying that. The reason we make videos is to give the information that we couldn't find when we were looking. This comment means so much to me. Thank You!
You don't need to seal screw holes & skip the floor joists. Small holes allow air flow keeping mold from forming. Floor joists just create cold spots. Check out Chuck Cassidy, sub floor master class. Detailed how to, best bus subfloor conversion. He has awesome videos & great info.
Thanks for reaching out. We chose the other route with no chance to let water in. It imperative for us to not have mold. Not allowing the chance for water to come in underneath seemed and seems like a good idea. We chose the minimal floor joist route to avoid as many insulation gaps as possible. We wanted everything tight so there wouldn't be any squeaking while driving. Also, with things being fastened to the floor, it seems way more safe to have the wood on the floor as secure as possible.
I can’t recall Chuck Cassaday ever putting holes in the metal shell without providing some way to seal them and prevent water intrusion. Please post a link to that video, would you, because I am serious about following Chuck’s advice, but if he has changed something, I’d like to know. Thanks!
@@carriesmith1395 awesome. Thanks! I don’t offer build services directly but I do offer a lot to Skoolie owners and Skoolie hopefuls through our website. We have a few builders in our network. Where are you? skoolie.thediybusguy.com
I saw one guy using a hydraulic lifter-like the size you would use to lift the front end of a car. He would shove a long bladed tool under the flooring and lift away. It made very fast work of that part. Another guy used a heat gun to help loosen the rubber just enough so it would peel up much more easily. Ya gotta love American ingenuity!
Thank you so much for this video! this was super helpful :) me and my husband are in the process of preparing for the subfloors and we are doing as much research as possible :D
I went with a floating floor with insulation board that had 1/4 OSB on one side and topped it with 3/4 plywood where loads would go. So far it's very stable a year later. There's been debate about the need for the framing in the floor.
Definitely hear that. I opted for framing and glue mainly for the hope that the styrofoam wouldn't squeak under there for all eternity while driving and idling.
Thanks for reaching out. We don’t have any sleepers. If you’re asking about the joists between the insulation, we show screwing that down around 8:30 in this video.
I’m sorry for the delay. Most people find all sorts of issues underneath the rubber. Moisture gets under there and rots out the wood if there’s wood under there and rusts out the metal. It’s disgusting under there usually.
@@bussedamove just like you did, with glue. The weight of the plywood and fastening of it would weigh it down as well. I can't imagine it moving. Unsure why the furring strips are needed.
@@TheTJLH gotcha. It’s an interesting concept. Have you done that method? I’m assuming that you mean the strips between the insulation that I called Floor Joists. Even with all the glue, I could see the styrofoam snapping around the glue and just being generally loose and squeaky after that. It wasn’t worth the risk to me. I think that what you’re saying is possible. I actually think that a lot of people do it the way that you mentioned. I wasn’t going to be one to try it because of the possible squeak scenario that I mentioned above. If you have done it or wind up doing it on yours, I’d love to hear how it turns out or turned out.
I don’t remember saying that specifically. At the 8:30 mark in this video you can watch us do the first joint. We covered the entire board in construction adhesive and used self tapping sheet metal screws. We drilled pilot holes all the way through the joist so the sheet metal screw wouldn’t have to work to get through it. They went through the holes in the wood and right into the metal. The massive about of glue on them sealed around the screw some it wouldn’t ever be a leak point.
This paint has now trippled in price : / Also, construction adhesive creates VOCs, and spray/rigid foam insulation does too. Probably you are trying for lowest VOCs instead of 0.
Everything has tripled. It’s unfortunate. We stored our insulation outside for almost a year to let it air out. We’re using Purebond plywood and our construction adhesive is one step shy of the adhesive this company uses in clean rooms. Surely the voc level isn’t zero but we’re doing everything we can. We wanted the M-1CR (clean room) adhesive but it was cost prohibitive.
Just wrapped up removing the rubber floor…a fresh slice of hell. I’m an old man and got’er done. Ain’t no way to get through it but to do it
Definitely hear you on that. Did you see our rubber floor removal video? Those were my feelings as well. Glad you got it done. On to the next thing!
ua-cam.com/video/hWccHk-krjo/v-deo.html
@@bussedamove Yes I did watch your video. In a twisted way I was relieved - I thought I was doing something wrong...no it's just quite a project to get that floor up. We polled some friends about what to name our bus. One was BusTaMove. But seeing you already snagged that we will have work with the other suggestions. Go Birds!!!
We got half the rubber off it only took us an hour we used a roof scraper man it look great. One person scrapes one person pulled on it. Now the center aisle that's a different story we are at the last six feet and it is using crowbar to Chisel it up and the other side looks like it'll come up okay but we are not giving up. Awesome videos keep them up
That’s great for you guys. Welcome to Skoolie life! And thanks for the encouragement!
No joists needed. Just foamboard, adhesive and plywood. Much warmer without the thermal bridging
Thanks for reaching out. Is that what you did on yours? How is it holding up with all of the flexing and torsion from the road?
Your video was very helpful to me, especially the part about reinforcing the floor in certain heavy traffic areas. That’s the first time I have heard any builder discuss this, which is odd since it seems like a very basic need in a moving vehicle. It seems to me that all the jiggling, bouncing, and shifting motion of the bus will eventually affect anything inside, including where all the parts are attached to each other. Good job and best wishes.
Thank you for saying that. The reason we make videos is to give the information that we couldn't find when we were looking. This comment means so much to me. Thank You!
You don't need to seal screw holes & skip the floor joists. Small holes allow air flow keeping mold from forming. Floor joists just create cold spots. Check out Chuck Cassidy, sub floor master class. Detailed how to, best bus subfloor conversion. He has awesome videos & great info.
Thanks for reaching out. We chose the other route with no chance to let water in. It imperative for us to not have mold. Not allowing the chance for water to come in underneath seemed and seems like a good idea. We chose the minimal floor joist route to avoid as many insulation gaps as possible. We wanted everything tight so there wouldn't be any squeaking while driving. Also, with things being fastened to the floor, it seems way more safe to have the wood on the floor as secure as possible.
I can’t recall Chuck Cassaday ever putting holes in the metal shell without providing some way to seal them and prevent water intrusion. Please post a link to that video, would you, because I am serious about following Chuck’s advice, but if he has changed something, I’d like to know. Thanks!
Thanks so much my first time watching your video.
Nice! Welcome aboard! I hope you like it here 😎
@@bussedamove thanks yes I like it here so far. Do you offer the service to other bus owners if there not up to do it for them self?
@@carriesmith1395 awesome. Thanks! I don’t offer build services directly but I do offer a lot to Skoolie owners and Skoolie hopefuls through our website. We have a few builders in our network. Where are you?
skoolie.thediybusguy.com
@bussedamove Texas
Easiest way to remove that rubber flooring is an air hammer!! I peeled half my bus in 30 min
Wow! Great! Did it ding up the floor? I think the thing I ultimately recommend at the end of this video works on the same principle as an air hammer.
I saw one guy using a hydraulic lifter-like the size you would use to lift the front end of a car. He would shove a long bladed tool under the flooring and lift away. It made very fast work of that part. Another guy used a heat gun to help loosen the rubber just enough so it would peel up much more easily. Ya gotta love American ingenuity!
Thank you so much for this video! this was super helpful :) me and my husband are in the process of preparing for the subfloors and we are doing as much research as possible :D
Very good. I’m so glad to have helped. Please reach out on our Instagram or Facebook with any further questions that you might have.
Check out Chuck Cassidy, sub floor master class. Detailed how to, best bus subfloor conversion. He has awesome videos & great info.
I went with a floating floor with insulation board that had 1/4 OSB on one side and topped it with 3/4 plywood where loads would go. So far it's very stable a year later. There's been debate about the need for the framing in the floor.
Definitely hear that. I opted for framing and glue mainly for the hope that the styrofoam wouldn't squeak under there for all eternity while driving and idling.
@@bussedamove spray foam it all down, just a few cans will hold it in place, no squeaks.
@@kdlittlehawk we glued it so we should be fine. Great idea though!
How did u get sleeper Joyce screwed down
Thanks for reaching out. We don’t have any sleepers. If you’re asking about the joists between the insulation, we show screwing that down around 8:30 in this video.
Why do you have to remove the Rubber??????! Why not seal and build on top?????!
I’m sorry for the delay. Most people find all sorts of issues underneath the rubber. Moisture gets under there and rots out the wood if there’s wood under there and rusts out the metal. It’s disgusting under there usually.
Thank you I will do it correctly 😊
Seems like you could just add the insulation and then add the 3/4 ply without the furring strips.
Interesting. How would you secure it? Thanks for reaching out!
@@bussedamove just like you did, with glue. The weight of the plywood and fastening of it would weigh it down as well. I can't imagine it moving. Unsure why the furring strips are needed.
@@TheTJLH gotcha. It’s an interesting concept. Have you done that method? I’m assuming that you mean the strips between the insulation that I called Floor Joists. Even with all the glue, I could see the styrofoam snapping around the glue and just being generally loose and squeaky after that. It wasn’t worth the risk to me.
I think that what you’re saying is possible. I actually think that a lot of people do it the way that you mentioned. I wasn’t going to be one to try it because of the possible squeak scenario that I mentioned above.
If you have done it or wind up doing it on yours, I’d love to hear how it turns out or turned out.
Check out Chuck Cassidy, sub floor master class. Detailed how to, best bus subfloor conversion. He has awesome videos & great info.
How do u screw the wood down to metal flooring 🤷🏾
I don’t remember saying that specifically. At the 8:30 mark in this video you can watch us do the first joint. We covered the entire board in construction adhesive and used self tapping sheet metal screws. We drilled pilot holes all the way through the joist so the sheet metal screw wouldn’t have to work to get through it. They went through the holes in the wood and right into the metal. The massive about of glue on them sealed around the screw some it wouldn’t ever be a leak point.
This paint has now trippled in price : /
Also, construction adhesive creates VOCs, and spray/rigid foam insulation does too. Probably you are trying for lowest VOCs instead of 0.
Everything has tripled. It’s unfortunate. We stored our insulation outside for almost a year to let it air out. We’re using Purebond plywood and our construction adhesive is one step shy of the adhesive this company uses in clean rooms. Surely the voc level isn’t zero but we’re doing everything we can. We wanted the M-1CR (clean room) adhesive but it was cost prohibitive.