I would greatly appreciate an entire sharpening session from beginning to end. I can't sharpen for shit. I can't figure out what steps I'm doing wrong & I have no other experienced knife people around me to tell me where I've gone awry. Like I can get an edge that cuts but it's usually nothing that comes close to factory edges usually. I use worksharp freehand sharpeners, as a reference.
Glad you’ve figured it out!!! The only thing that I could have added to my previous comment on your other video was to cut your edge off on your lowest grit stone. That way for sure you were starting out with fresh steel. Thanks for sharing 👊🍻
Your Magnacut video series is "Must Watch Knife UA-cam" ... like a tv series where you can't wait until the next episode to see what happens 🤣 Thanks for taking the time to keep us in the loop, and for doing all you do! ✌️
Great job, Erica! You probably already know this, but you can actually get DMT diamond stones in both 120 and 60 grit as well, but the 60 grit is probably better suited for sharpening axes and lawnmower blades...lol.
My theory on what was happening here is that the maker didn’t grind away all of the decarbed steel at the edge after heat treat. Even if the blade is heat treated in a foil pouch there is still a thin section where the carbon leaves the steel and the steel in that zone won’t harden. If he didn’t specifically grind away some of the metal at the edge after heat treat then the final sharpened edge will be soft. There is also some tests that show that edges sharpened with high speed belts don’t have as much edge retention as hand sharpened edges. So him using a grinder to sharpen could also play a role. I think it just took you removing enough steel at the edge to get into the hard steel. Hopefully now that you got through that you should be able to sharpen with whatever grit progression you want and still get decent results.
@Corey Wood I totally agree with you. One way to alleviate the belt grinding issues is to use wet grinding. Here’s a link to a video made by Kase Knives Switzerland: ua-cam.com/video/t5FZgc1v-vY/v-deo.html .
Those Shapton stones are amazing and worth the money - in my opinion. They work more aggressively, thus faster, than diamond in my experience. The added work of flattening and the cost is worth the time they save and how nice an edge they can produce. I use a 16000 as the final step on chisels and planes for the tertiary bevel. I don't own a low grit one, after this... probably will add one in the future. Thanks for sharing. I know MagnaCut is a new steel high end steel and as makers learn to use it they will make long lasting great knives. I haven't tried to make anything with it yet. I am not ready to 10x my blade materials costs yet :D
You are not only the best reviewer, bit Also the most passionate. Always providing correct information. You put all those boys to shame. With your wealth of knowledge and again your passion. Your family should be very proud, your fking amazing!
If your main use is box cutting get a Spyderco Mannix 2 or Sage 1 or Paramilitary 2 in Maxamet, or if you need a fixed blade, you could do worse than a Lionsteel M4 in M390 (at a pretty good price, too). There IS value in investigating different sharpening modalities for different uses, but a crap blade isn't going to turn into a good blade with just a change in sharpening methods.
Got my 1st mgcut the other day (spyd) and was unhappy with the edge so went to work and wasn't having the best of luck. Ended up apexing on venev course/med and lightly finishing with a cheap/med corundum (!) and a handful of swipes on bare leather. -Not bad, def sticky and easily cuts stuff. lol Could use a little refining but my best so far. oh, 17 dps
A lot of times people use a grinder to put on an edge so they allow it to get too hot and ruins the heat treat on the edge. Once it's resharpened and enough material is taken off you down to that original proper heat treated blade again. I believe this may of been the case here.
Looking forward to buying a Magnacut knife I DON'T have to re-profile... One of the main reasons for wanting to use these kinds of higher end steels is that it will work out of the box without maintenance for ages. I buy knives to solve problems and work. I don't buy knives cause I need more problems. I've got enough work in my life without having to pay for more...
@@graysconcrete135 Yes, I have a Super Freek in M4. It's fantastic, everything you say it is. However, its not stainless, and this lack of corrosion resistance over the long term as the coating fades is a big weakness, especially in outdoor use as a beater if its not dried and oiled.
@@graysconcrete135 Chris Reeve just released 2 new models in magnacut, both fixed blades. I'm REALLY stoked for when CRK and Benchmade start to put them in folders!
I need you to use it for longer. Then get back to us. Cause any steel would last longer than that short test. I understand it is actually working now vs failing like before. I’m talking actual edge retention vs something commonly used like O1. Can you do that for me? Cause my personally hammer forged O1 at about 60 HRC will outperform the magnacut sloyd I bought for woodcarving. It boggles my mind. Micro chips micro chips micro chips.
Wow what a journey, that must have been ultra frustrating. Make sure to check out Home Slice's "dual grit magnacut sharpening" videos as well as Pete (Cedric & Ada's) dual grit magnacut videos if you haven't seen them, for getting a super long-lasting edge (e.g. 40% longer) by doing coarse on one side and smooth on the other. It is a bit involved of a process but Home Slice shows how.
Its a hoax, its just a massive burr, which gives it basically a shallower angle edge, therefore abrasion until thickening to dullness takes longer. Its apples to oranges. The large shallow angle burr makes it cut longer but strongly decreases edge stability. The exact same can be reached with normal sharpening at a shallower angle. And would even give better cutting ability due to the shallower bevel.
I feel like the maker may have sharpened your knife on a belt grinder and ruined the heat treatment of your edge. That would explain you having to completely grind away the old edge and making a new one. Just my opinion though
Soft edge! I’d say the maker has had a leak in his foil pouch when austenitising and decarbed the edge of the blank! Either that or he/she has scrubbed the temper TERRIBLY when final sharpening. Youve effectively removed the compromised edge by going to a coarser abrasive and are now into good steel. Shit heat treat.
Try using sandpaper on a dead smooth surface (like plate glass or stone). The sandpaper is cheap, and you can get grits up to about #3000 (which are used for polishing plastic!). I never go over #2000 myself. Start at #600, then #1000, #1500, #2000 (basically a lapping). Strop of you feel the need, but it will usually not be necessary. The motion is the same as a stropping. When using VERY hard/fine steels, DMT diamond hones are your best option. Super fine grained steels go from razor sharp to butter knife with 1 wrong stroke on a stone. I use a #120, #320 and #600 diamond to reset an angle, or to fix a chipped out blade using a KME (clone) style jig. Then use aluminum blanks with strips of sandpaper again. I will NEVER buy another stone. Makes it easy after a day's use to walk into your kitchen/garage, lay out a piece or 2 of sandpaper, and touch up your blade in about a minute or two. Note: I do not worry on a 'perfect angle'. but on a razor sharp edge. Using sandpaper on a piece of glass (or stone countertop) essentially replicates your Shapton with a piece of sandpaper. I only go below #600 for damaged blades. Might sound hokey, but it's cheap to try.
I only make knives in hc like 5160 and O1 so I don’t know if that steel would do the same but sometimes I’ve found that after heat treat there is a thin layer that is decarbonized and it takes a couple sharpenings to get thru that layer. After that they are fine. Glad your blade turned out to be ok.
So freaking happy you were able to get a decent edge on a knife that looks so appealing!!! Side note, my 50 subscriber giveaway is in 9 days! It’s not quite 3,000 like you, but you have given me inspiration that it can be done!
Haven't seen prior vids on this... But I'm gonna say this is the classic burnt "factory" edge. By reprofiling you fully removed all the burnt steel at the edge. And congrats on the Shapton. Glass stones are my favorite 🤘
I'm still on the fence. I've sharpened hundreds of knives and multiple times now and never had one dull after two passes through cardboard regardless of which stone I started with.
This is why I said there's a wire edge being left, if its not burnt steel or a wire edge. It can only be on other thing and that's an apex that's so fine it can't support its self but that would need to be like 12dps or less and clearly its not that shallow of a secondary bevel. The wire edge comment was at me, if someone doesn't want trouble shooting advice FROM PROFESSIONALS then they should simply say don't offer advice. And by the way, you can't feel a wire edge nor can you see it with the naked eye a wire edge is not a burr and professionals still get them from time to time and do you know how they are caught? It's not with visuals or feeling the edge.
As a knife maker, I can just say, it is a steel that is new to makers and a lot are still trying to figure out the best way to heat treat and sharpen according to it's use. It seems you know your way around a knife, so I trust you are good at using a stone. It seems to me, since Magnacut is such a resilient steel, starting so high on the stone grit didn't take off the amount of material you are use to it taking off. Trying a lower grit was a smart move. So good job on getting it to perform. My guess is the maker either had to much of a convex edge on the blade or accidently heated the edge too much during sharpening the first time. and that could also be due to him or her starting at too high of a grit as well on the belt if they machine sharpened. Either way, I am not assuming the maker isn't good. Just some points I would consider first if a customer of mine came to me with the same issue.
I only just found this channel but I have a knife magnacut 62 hrc it should be pro forming much better at higher grit I use the shapton glass up to 6k and strops equating grit from 16k to 32k and you should have significantly better performance the cut should be much smoother and last much longer I would suggest it’s probably a heat treat issue
@@ericasedc it is but guess how I found it?! Bought some magna cut and had the exact same issue and fixed it the exact same way except I didn’t have to go to 120 for some reason. I brought new blade camping and it rolled instantly using it with a baton. No rocks involved. Luckily the first sharpening set it up and it’s been great. I love it now.
So $180 or so for a knife you have to completely reprofile from BGM. Basically he is selling a slab of steal with scales on it. "Welcome to my website. My name is John and I am 22 years old. I have been making knives for around 5 years now." That alone tells me the skill level and mindset. A inmate may have spent 20 years making shanks in prison, but I wouldn't call him a knife maker. I wouldn't call john a knife maker either.
I don't think an expensive knife (or any knife) requires a code. And if it somehow did then the maker should be able to decode it himself. You should sent Will Smith round to give him a slap.
Yeah you did it!!! That’s a whole lot of sharpening nicely done!!!
I would greatly appreciate an entire sharpening session from beginning to end. I can't sharpen for shit. I can't figure out what steps I'm doing wrong & I have no other experienced knife people around me to tell me where I've gone awry. Like I can get an edge that cuts but it's usually nothing that comes close to factory edges usually.
I use worksharp freehand sharpeners, as a reference.
Same, same and same
Probably incostint angle .
Glad you’ve figured it out!!! The only thing that I could have added to my previous comment on your other video was to cut your edge off on your lowest grit stone. That way for sure you were starting out with fresh steel. Thanks for sharing 👊🍻
Your Magnacut video series is "Must Watch Knife UA-cam" ... like a tv series where you can't wait until the next episode to see what happens 🤣 Thanks for taking the time to keep us in the loop, and for doing all you do! ✌️
Great job, Erica! You probably already know this, but you can actually get DMT diamond stones in both 120 and 60 grit as well, but the 60 grit is probably better suited for sharpening axes and lawnmower blades...lol.
220 and 120? I don't think they make 60 grit
My theory on what was happening here is that the maker didn’t grind away all of the decarbed steel at the edge after heat treat. Even if the blade is heat treated in a foil pouch there is still a thin section where the carbon leaves the steel and the steel in that zone won’t harden. If he didn’t specifically grind away some of the metal at the edge after heat treat then the final sharpened edge will be soft.
There is also some tests that show that edges sharpened with high speed belts don’t have as much edge retention as hand sharpened edges. So him using a grinder to sharpen could also play a role. I think it just took you removing enough steel at the edge to get into the hard steel. Hopefully now that you got through that you should be able to sharpen with whatever grit progression you want and still get decent results.
@Corey Wood I totally agree with you. One way to alleviate the belt grinding issues is to use wet grinding.
Here’s a link to a video made by Kase Knives Switzerland: ua-cam.com/video/t5FZgc1v-vY/v-deo.html .
The so called “burnt edge issue”
A BUNCH of people go on and in about this and call it metal fetique
@@ssunfish Fatigue, that’s French for tiredness.
Those Shapton stones are amazing and worth the money - in my opinion. They work more aggressively, thus faster, than diamond in my experience. The added work of flattening and the cost is worth the time they save and how nice an edge they can produce. I use a 16000 as the final step on chisels and planes for the tertiary bevel. I don't own a low grit one, after this... probably will add one in the future. Thanks for sharing. I know MagnaCut is a new steel high end steel and as makers learn to use it they will make long lasting great knives. I haven't tried to make anything with it yet. I am not ready to 10x my blade materials costs yet :D
You are not only the best reviewer, bit Also the most passionate. Always providing correct information. You put all those boys to shame. With your wealth of knowledge and again your passion. Your family should be very proud, your fking amazing!
Wow thanks!!!! This is VERY OLD
If your main use is box cutting get a Spyderco Mannix 2 or Sage 1 or Paramilitary 2 in Maxamet, or if you need a fixed blade, you could do worse than a Lionsteel M4 in M390 (at a pretty good price, too). There IS value in investigating different sharpening modalities for different uses, but a crap blade isn't going to turn into a good blade with just a change in sharpening methods.
Good Job! I was convinced, after you said it had been through several sharpenings, that it was a poor heat treat.
This must have felt like a rollercoaster! Glad you’ve figured out how to get it to make the cut.
Got my 1st mgcut the other day (spyd) and was unhappy with the edge so went to work and wasn't having the best of luck. Ended up apexing on venev course/med and lightly finishing with a cheap/med corundum (!) and a handful of swipes on bare leather. -Not bad, def sticky and easily cuts stuff. lol Could use a little refining but my best so far. oh, 17 dps
Good job never giving up looking foward for the updates
A lot of times people use a grinder to put on an edge so they allow it to get too hot and ruins the heat treat on the edge. Once it's resharpened and enough material is taken off you down to that original proper heat treated blade again. I believe this may of been the case here.
Looking forward to buying a Magnacut knife I DON'T have to re-profile... One of the main reasons for wanting to use these kinds of higher end steels is that it will work out of the box without maintenance for ages. I buy knives to solve problems and work. I don't buy knives cause I need more problems. I've got enough work in my life without having to pay for more...
Have you tried benchmades m4? It comes laser sharp and the edge last a WHILE
@@graysconcrete135 Yes, I have a Super Freek in M4. It's fantastic, everything you say it is. However, its not stainless, and this lack of corrosion resistance over the long term as the coating fades is a big weakness, especially in outdoor use as a beater if its not dried and oiled.
@@andesvirgo yeah mine has already started to rust after a year of abusing in the concrete industry. I got my first magnacut blade today from protech
@@graysconcrete135 Chris Reeve just released 2 new models in magnacut, both fixed blades. I'm REALLY stoked for when CRK and Benchmade start to put them in folders!
I need you to use it for longer. Then get back to us. Cause any steel would last longer than that short test.
I understand it is actually working now vs failing like before. I’m talking actual edge retention vs something commonly used like O1.
Can you do that for me? Cause my personally hammer forged O1 at about 60 HRC will outperform the magnacut sloyd I bought for woodcarving. It boggles my mind. Micro chips micro chips micro chips.
Wow what a journey, that must have been ultra frustrating. Make sure to check out Home Slice's "dual grit magnacut sharpening" videos as well as Pete (Cedric & Ada's) dual grit magnacut videos if you haven't seen them, for getting a super long-lasting edge (e.g. 40% longer) by doing coarse on one side and smooth on the other. It is a bit involved of a process but Home Slice shows how.
Its a hoax, its just a massive burr, which gives it basically a shallower angle edge, therefore abrasion until thickening to dullness takes longer.
Its apples to oranges.
The large shallow angle burr makes it cut longer but strongly decreases edge stability.
The exact same can be reached with normal sharpening at a shallower angle. And would even give better cutting ability due to the shallower bevel.
That’s great news. Can’t wait to hear how it does at work all day.
I feel like the maker may have sharpened your knife on a belt grinder and ruined the heat treatment of your edge. That would explain you having to completely grind away the old edge and making a new one. Just my opinion though
Either that or accidentally decarburised the edge in heat treat.
Hopefully you cracked the code 🙂👍 , i did some wood whittling and made a Gnome with my knife 😅
Soft edge! I’d say the maker has had a leak in his foil pouch when austenitising and decarbed the edge of the blank! Either that or he/she has scrubbed the temper TERRIBLY when final sharpening. Youve effectively removed the compromised edge by going to a coarser abrasive and are now into good steel. Shit heat treat.
Good to see that you may have it sorted out
Try using sandpaper on a dead smooth surface (like plate glass or stone). The sandpaper is cheap, and you can get grits up to about #3000 (which are used for polishing plastic!). I never go over #2000 myself. Start at #600, then #1000, #1500, #2000 (basically a lapping). Strop of you feel the need, but it will usually not be necessary. The motion is the same as a stropping. When using VERY hard/fine steels, DMT diamond hones are your best option. Super fine grained steels go from razor sharp to butter knife with 1 wrong stroke on a stone. I use a #120, #320 and #600 diamond to reset an angle, or to fix a chipped out blade using a KME (clone) style jig. Then use aluminum blanks with strips of sandpaper again. I will NEVER buy another stone. Makes it easy after a day's use to walk into your kitchen/garage, lay out a piece or 2 of sandpaper, and touch up your blade in about a minute or two. Note: I do not worry on a 'perfect angle'. but on a razor sharp edge. Using sandpaper on a piece of glass (or stone countertop) essentially replicates your Shapton with a piece of sandpaper. I only go below #600 for damaged blades. Might sound hokey, but it's cheap to try.
That sandpaper idea is awesome! Thanks for sharing it. My only concern would be sandpaper maybe not working on steels that require diamond stones.
@@gregs7519 I've had it work on steels up to 63Rc without issue.
Very cool that you're starting to get some better performance out of it
Just found your channel. Really like it. Keep up the good work!
I only make knives in hc like 5160 and O1 so I don’t know if that steel would do the same but sometimes I’ve found that after heat treat there is a thin layer that is decarbonized and it takes a couple sharpenings to get thru that layer. After that they are fine. Glad your blade turned out to be ok.
Hi Erica, what make and model is that knife?
Hope it holds decently cause thats a sweet blade!
So freaking happy you were able to get a decent edge on a knife that looks so appealing!!! Side note, my 50 subscriber giveaway is in 9 days! It’s not quite 3,000 like you, but you have given me inspiration that it can be done!
I just went and looked up that knife. Visited the BGM website. What a great selection of fixed blades, in about any steel one might want.
@NYAE GUN TO HEAD : 3-4 INCH EDC BLADE : S30 SERIES...M390 OR MAGNACUT?
SEMPER FI
GUNNY
Haven't seen prior vids on this...
But I'm gonna say this is the classic burnt "factory" edge.
By reprofiling you fully removed all the burnt steel at the edge.
And congrats on the Shapton. Glass stones are my favorite 🤘
Thank you brother!!!
I'm still on the fence. I've sharpened hundreds of knives and multiple times now and never had one dull after two passes through cardboard regardless of which stone I started with.
This is why I said there's a wire edge being left, if its not burnt steel or a wire edge. It can only be on other thing and that's an apex that's so fine it can't support its self but that would need to be like 12dps or less and clearly its not that shallow of a secondary bevel.
The wire edge comment was at me, if someone doesn't want trouble shooting advice FROM PROFESSIONALS then they should simply say don't offer advice. And by the way, you can't feel a wire edge nor can you see it with the naked eye a wire edge is not a burr and professionals still get them from time to time and do you know how they are caught? It's not with visuals or feeling the edge.
Thanks
As a knife maker, I can just say, it is a steel that is new to makers and a lot are still trying to figure out the best way to heat treat and sharpen according to it's use. It seems you know your way around a knife, so I trust you are good at using a stone.
It seems to me, since Magnacut is such a resilient steel, starting so high on the stone grit didn't take off the amount of material you are use to it taking off. Trying a lower grit was a smart move. So good job on getting it to perform. My guess is the maker either had to much of a convex edge on the blade or accidently heated the edge too much during sharpening the first time. and that could also be due to him or her starting at too high of a grit as well on the belt if they machine sharpened.
Either way, I am not assuming the maker isn't good. Just some points I would consider first if a customer of mine came to me with the same issue.
Subbed.. cool channel. Nice knife
I thought that it needed a reprofile and also I think you could get even better results with metallic cbn stones but they are hard to find right now
I only just found this channel but I have a knife magnacut 62 hrc it should be pro forming much better at higher grit I use the shapton glass up to 6k and strops equating grit from 16k to 32k and you should have significantly better performance the cut should be much smoother and last much longer I would suggest it’s probably a heat treat issue
id love an in depth video on a new edge
If hes not water cooling the belt when profiling it in the manufacturing process the blade is heating up too much
Young John at BGM makes great stuff. I own a few of his blades💪🏻
So is this a revolutionary blade steel? The charts and stats from the creator look nice.
Why do you have to figure out all of this? The knife maker must know instead and tell his customers.
I know. It isn’t my job necessarily , but I am part of the learning process I suppose. !
What’s wrong with convex edges? You prefer V edge?
Nothing’s wrong with them. Yes I do
@@ericasedcthank you for the reply! I’m new to your channel. I really like the look of the knife you’re using in this vid.
@@CorpseGrin welcome! This is a VERY old video though! 🤣
@@ericasedc it is but guess how I found it?! Bought some magna cut and had the exact same issue and fixed it the exact same way except I didn’t have to go to 120 for some reason. I brought new blade camping and it rolled instantly using it with a baton. No rocks involved. Luckily the first sharpening set it up and it’s been great. I love it now.
@@CorpseGrin YAY!!!
I'm gonna wait to buy that blade
🕵🏻♂️
Hello Tallica! Hope you are having a good day friend.
@@BrandonGavin_EDC yes I am
Solved! 👍
Firsty 👊🏻👌
Really all there seemed to be to get from this video is that BGM either messed up sharpening or burns his edges, unfortunately
You need a wicked edge
So $180 or so for a knife you have to completely reprofile from BGM. Basically he is selling a slab of steal with scales on it.
"Welcome to my website. My name is John and I am 22 years old. I have been making knives for around 5 years now."
That alone tells me the skill level and mindset. A inmate may have spent 20 years making shanks in prison, but I wouldn't call him a knife maker. I wouldn't call john a knife maker either.
Here ya go. ua-cam.com/video/a5lzf8LA03o/v-deo.html
I don't think an expensive knife (or any knife) requires a code. And if it somehow did then the maker should be able to decode it himself.
You should sent Will Smith round to give him a slap.
Be more feminine and embrace your womanly beauty you are NOT a man!
Just a wholely unnecessary comment that adds nothing to the conversation
Why do you have to figure out all of this? The knife maker must know instead and tell his customers.