I fitted some of these Powerflex bushes to my e46 today. Very easy job to do, but I did have access to a ramp, puller, press etc. I've done a good road test on various different road surfaces. The ride quality is perhaps a little harsher on very poor roads, but the difference is so small it might even be in my head. The steering has definitely sharpened up slightly though. Provided they don't wear prematurely, which I very much doubt, I would recommended them.
Just excellent. Thanks. The best most comprehensive video I've seen on this project. Explains it all - inner and outer ball joints, control arms, bushings, upgrades, and the importance of having it all fixed right to get a good alignment. Going to make the GF watch this so she knows whats up when she takes her BMW in for an alignment and some bozo tries to rip her off for 26 parts.
The under-body is similar to what you see in this video, and if you get under the car look at the bushings that are in the same location as the ones in this video you can see if there is any cracking or separation in the bushing itself, if there is then I would suggest replacing them. You will also want to look at the ball-joints that are on the control arms for any wear or excess play...
@Thegarmendia Some People state that there is more noise, but we have installed 100+ sets of Urethane Bushings on E30, E36, E46, and E39 have have seen little to no adverse noise. As for squeaking, as long as you lubricate the gushing and shuttle with a water-resistant grease there should be little to no squeaking.
@jereisluke The rear control arm bushings are a bit more involved and are much more difficult to get to than the front ones. As for removing the control arms in install the bushings, it is not required to do so on the E36, the process is very similar to the one in this video, the components just look slightly different. The impact drill was simply used for the speed in which it gets the job done, most people use a chisel and hammer to force the inner sleeve off of the control arm.
@autojank When doing this video we were keeping the brake pedal at a constant pressure, we were not jabbing or surging the pedal. If there is any doubt you will want to go ahead and replace the bushings then do an alignment.
@deffi88 There are many things that would need to be checked, basically all ball-joints or bushings, as for the sway-bar the end-links on the sway-bar are normally the issue, they are about $25-$45 each depending on your exact model. If they are going out you will hear a little bit of a pop or slight banging sound when you go over speed bumps or are pulling in or out of parking lots where there may be dips. If that is not the issue then it may be the sway-bar bushings that need replaced.
Normally that would require you to have the old bushings pressed out with a press and the new ones pressed in, we used an 8 ton press in our shop for ease if doing so, but a lot of people have taken alternative means to getting them out such as cutting them out with a "sawzall" or "hacksaw." But starting next Monday 10/19/2009 we will be carrying these bushings already pressed into new brackets ready to be simply bolted onto your vehicle.
@deffi88 There is a good chance that it is, there are three main possibilities when it comes to the ball joints making a popping sound. The Control Arm, Tie Rod, and Swaybar Link, these are the three items that could be making the noise, the only problem is when you are turning, all three types of these ball joints are moving and turning as well. Its best to try to isolate which side it is coming from, then with the car on a lift or on jack stands get under it and have someone turn the wheel.
Excellent video. I'm at college and in withdrawls from working on my BMW. I've done this very job at home, and am missing that familiar comfy underside of my car. :D
Once the Bolts are removed off of the control arm ball joints you will have to hake a large 2-prong fork (fork as in tool, not eating utensil) and pry the arm from the chassis. The control arm has most likely been installed for many years and needs a little help to be removed since it is probably "frozen" to the chassis.
@528im52 Thanks for the info. I guess I will just get the alignment done, as there was no "jumping" at constant braking pressure, and the BMW dealer in Ann Arbor said it was fine, I even spoke to his tech and looked at it myself with him. The only reason I had a doubt was because a "reputed" Indy suggested I replace the bushings, as well as tie rod! I will look at the bushings again in 6 mos, since I'm approaching 100K. Thanks for the prompt reply, wish your shop was in Ann Arbor!
Great video! I have the same problem with my 2002 330CiC. I've been feeling the shimmy when I go over uneven pavement, one tire is worn unevenly, and the steering wheel is not centered. The mechanic at my dealer says the bushing is worn. I wonder why BMW makes such a weak bushing because I've never had that problem with any other car I've owned.
I would check your rear anti-roll bars and or Pittman arms! As they are all RWD, power pushing the weight forward from the back will push the steering from side to side if the anti-roll bars have wear or are broken! If you cant feel a slight knocking under your feet when driving or hear a slight knocking, then the bushes are ok! These are available in the U.K from German swedish and french car parts for £60 inc VAT on trade prices or around £70 plus any garage can fit these for 2 hours + VAT!
@luganballer99 We didn't get into that due to a 4+ton press being needed to push the old bushings and their sleeves out. Most individuals do not have this kind of equipment and would need to take the brackets to a shop to have the bushings removed.
Would love to see your recommendation for removing the old bushing material from the control arm bushing mount and pressing the poly one in. This seems to always be the hardest part on these installs.
Honestly it just depends, the labor time called for on this is 3.5-4.0 hours from start to finish plus an alignment and the actual parts. I believe that our shop charges about $375.00 for the install, parts, and alignment. I do know the local dealership charges over $450.00 for the exact same job.
Well, as I said a shop can do it with less work and possible damage, normally they charge between $15-$30 to press out a pair of bushings like these and to put the new ones in, but with a large vice and sawzall and safety glasses you can do it yourself and all you would need is what you have plus the new bushings...
Nice video, I wish I had the tools to do this job. My 2000 528i has 100K miles on it and it needs major maintenance, like O2 sensor replacement and such.. How bout a video on replacing shocks. I would appreciate it a lot. Thanks.
great info. i am having my bushing replaced on my 07' E65. this is very helpful being that I'm looking into doing more maintenance on my own care if its a non-complicated task. thanks
@MAPSTER7007 Yes, it is the same process for your 325xi, the bushings will look a bit different, but it is the same location and process. I will message you the link to go directly to them on our website.
By the way, I'm making my comparison against BMW genuine parts that I had previously and had only done 5000 miles. I wasn't happy with them so I replace with Powerflex and things have improved.
Depends. Do a visual inspection of the control arm bushing first to check for cracks and excessive wear. It took me a good 6 hours to do it on a 97 M3 because it was my first time attempting and I didn't have the desired tools so I had to kinda macgyver a fell things. I could do it in 1-2 hours now that I know the tricks with my own tools. Is it worth it? I would change them out anyway as the rubber doesn't tend to last very long.
i did the same type of job in my e46 and i didn't use those cain of electric tools ...the only problem was the aluminium shield who was a bit stubborn, the bushings came out easy...just by hand, after i removed the bushings i just put the new one with the help of vaseline, after the bushing was in position i used a rust bolt spray WD40 to remove the vaseline from there...wipe the rest of the remaining vaseline and bolt it back in posision and that was it.
i plan on replacing my control arms and bushings next weekend......didn't really tell me how to take the bushings out or press them in. guess i'll keep looking...
Oh, oh! I really like that new bushing! Can you tell me where to get that one! We were planning to replace and I'd like that nice performance upgrade. =) Great video!
Hi, in your video about checking to see for control arm bushing failure, you show how the front wheel jumps back a bit when you brake at low speeds. The same thing happens for me ONLY if I repeatedly jab and leave the brakes at a low speed. Is that what you were doing in that video?? Long story short, BMW dealer says my suspension is fine after hoisting it up, while the indy shop wants me to change bushings. Who to trust? I need to do an alignment so wanted to sort this out first. Thx!
@Axio1matic There is not any other bushing on the control arms of a 3-series sedans from 1999 to 2005, and 3-series coupes from 1999 to 2006. When you say 240 per arm with bushing kit, would that include replacing the control arms as well? If so that is not too bad of a price per side and is just a bit higher that if you bought the control arm and bushing from us, but if that is just for the bushings alone it is extremely high.
OK (and thank you for the response), so I have a large vice and a sawzall.... What more would I need to do it myself or would I need to take them to a shop somewhere to have them pressed in?
I have a '95 318is and my mechanic told me I need to replace front and rear control arm bushings. I had a few questions: 1) Are the rear control arm bushings pretty similar to replacing the front ones? 2) I read another DIY that said to take the whole control arm out, can I replace these with the control arm still on the car on an E36? 3) Any other way to get the old bushings off the control arm besides the impact drill? I don't have one of those. Thanks.
If these bushings are not replaced you will see a great deal of shimmy during driving and especially under braking. Also uneven tire wear will occur causing you to purchase more and more tires over time, for the price of this repair, the gains are extremely well worth it....
I have a 2000 e46 with the sport package. How do you get the new busing into the housing and the old one out (that seemed to be the only part that was missing from this DIY (be nice: I am a novice).
I noticed that my steering feel changes from time to time. Sometimes, the steering feels slightly disconnected and loose and at other times it feels precise and heavy. Whenever I drive or break on rough surfaces or bad roads, the steering moves left and right whenever the tires hit the rough patches on the road and I have to hold the steering tight to make the car go straight. Is this caused by worn out Control Arm bushings? 325ci 02/50k miles
11/27/2012 - Great video guys. Thanks for uploading it. What do you think a dealership would charge for the work you guys did? What should the job cost?
my guy wants to charge me 240 per arm w/bushing kit not including labor is that a good price? is there an rear control arm bushing alike to the one shown replaced in the video that im not accounting for?
I don't have a BMW, but I think my Audi has this problem. My car does that back and forth motion when stopping but it also makes a clunking noise when I am stopping and taking off. Do some cars make that noise when these go bad? Or do I have a whole other problem?
I have a 04' BMW m3 that I just bought. 25k miles. I brought it in to the dealer for an oil change and to check the brakes and they said that my ball joints are loose and need to be replaced. Is this possible with only 25k miles??
There is no good way to balance or align the wheels and tires without going to a good shop, the balancing machines and laser aligners that they use are extremely accurate and are the only true way to ensure proper alignment specifications. There are some at home kits and track-side kits for alignment, but these are only to be used for a quick alignment and are not always 100% correct
I went to the dealership a couple of months ago and they said my front bushing needs to replaced because its starting to tear. How much is too much???The dealership was going to charge me an arm and a leg!
I personally would not recommend urethane bushings as they make that creaking noise. Wasted my money on that one. Applying grease does not do the job so don't even bother to go there. Just get the rubber ones. They are easy to replace anyway so there should be no issue on which ones last longer. LimayBataanBoy
I fitted some of these Powerflex bushes to my e46 today. Very easy job to do, but I did have access to a ramp, puller, press etc. I've done a good road test on various different road surfaces. The ride quality is perhaps a little harsher on very poor roads, but the difference is so small it might even be in my head. The steering has definitely sharpened up slightly though. Provided they don't wear prematurely, which I very much doubt, I would recommended them.
Just excellent. Thanks. The best most comprehensive video I've seen on this project. Explains it all - inner and outer ball joints, control arms, bushings, upgrades, and the importance of having it all fixed right to get a good alignment. Going to make the GF watch this so she knows whats up when she takes her BMW in for an alignment and some bozo tries to rip her off for 26 parts.
@orlando318 Those are Powerflex bushings we installed, original factory bushings are what was on the vehicle.
The under-body is similar to what you see in this video, and if you get under the car look at the bushings that are in the same location as the ones in this video you can see if there is any cracking or separation in the bushing itself, if there is then I would suggest replacing them. You will also want to look at the ball-joints that are on the control arms for any wear or excess play...
@Thegarmendia Some People state that there is more noise, but we have installed 100+ sets of Urethane Bushings on E30, E36, E46, and E39 have have seen little to no adverse noise. As for squeaking, as long as you lubricate the gushing and shuttle with a water-resistant grease there should be little to no squeaking.
The Bushing would seem to be the problem that is what you described, but the ball joints are also a factor that must be examined.
@jereisluke The rear control arm bushings are a bit more involved and are much more difficult to get to than the front ones. As for removing the control arms in install the bushings, it is not required to do so on the E36, the process is very similar to the one in this video, the components just look slightly different. The impact drill was simply used for the speed in which it gets the job done, most people use a chisel and hammer to force the inner sleeve off of the control arm.
@autojank When doing this video we were keeping the brake pedal at a constant pressure, we were not jabbing or surging the pedal. If there is any doubt you will want to go ahead and replace the bushings then do an alignment.
@deffi88 There are many things that would need to be checked, basically all ball-joints or bushings, as for the sway-bar the end-links on the sway-bar are normally the issue, they are about $25-$45 each depending on your exact model. If they are going out you will hear a little bit of a pop or slight banging sound when you go over speed bumps or are pulling in or out of parking lots where there may be dips. If that is not the issue then it may be the sway-bar bushings that need replaced.
Normally that would require you to have the old bushings pressed out with a press and the new ones pressed in, we used an 8 ton press in our shop for ease if doing so, but a lot of people have taken alternative means to getting them out such as cutting them out with a "sawzall" or "hacksaw." But starting next Monday 10/19/2009 we will be carrying these bushings already pressed into new brackets ready to be simply bolted onto your vehicle.
@deffi88 There is a good chance that it is, there are three main possibilities when it comes to the ball joints making a popping sound. The Control Arm, Tie Rod, and Swaybar Link, these are the three items that could be making the noise, the only problem is when you are turning, all three types of these ball joints are moving and turning as well. Its best to try to isolate which side it is coming from, then with the car on a lift or on jack stands get under it and have someone turn the wheel.
Excellent video. I'm at college and in withdrawls from working on my BMW. I've done this very job at home, and am missing that familiar comfy underside of my car. :D
Once the Bolts are removed off of the control arm ball joints you will have to hake a large 2-prong fork (fork as in tool, not eating utensil) and pry the arm from the chassis. The control arm has most likely been installed for many years and needs a little help to be removed since it is probably "frozen" to the chassis.
@528im52 Thanks for the info. I guess I will just get the alignment done, as there was no "jumping" at constant braking pressure, and the BMW dealer in Ann Arbor said it was fine, I even spoke to his tech and looked at it myself with him. The only reason I had a doubt was because a "reputed" Indy suggested I replace the bushings, as well as tie rod! I will look at the bushings again in 6 mos, since I'm approaching 100K. Thanks for the prompt reply, wish your shop was in Ann Arbor!
Your shop is always so clean...
The bushing used in this setup are the bushing we carry which are produced by Powerflex
@aleksankazakov That is a possibility, that is either the bushings, ball joints, or swaybar links.
Great video!
I have the same problem with my 2002 330CiC. I've been feeling the shimmy when I go over uneven pavement, one tire is worn unevenly, and the steering wheel is not centered. The mechanic at my dealer says the bushing is worn. I wonder why BMW makes such a weak bushing because I've never had that problem with any other car I've owned.
I would check your rear anti-roll bars and or Pittman arms! As they are all RWD, power pushing the weight forward from the back will push the steering from side to side if the anti-roll bars have wear or are broken! If you cant feel a slight knocking under your feet when driving or hear a slight knocking, then the bushes are ok! These are available in the U.K from German swedish and french car parts for £60 inc VAT on trade prices or around £70 plus any garage can fit these for 2 hours + VAT!
@luganballer99 We didn't get into that due to a 4+ton press being needed to push the old bushings and their sleeves out. Most individuals do not have this kind of equipment and would need to take the brackets to a shop to have the bushings removed.
Would love to see your recommendation for removing the old bushing material from the control arm bushing mount and pressing the poly one in. This seems to always be the hardest part on these installs.
Great deal of help, now I know better how they will repair my car. Thanks a bunch.
Honestly it just depends, the labor time called for on this is 3.5-4.0 hours from start to finish plus an alignment and the actual parts. I believe that our shop charges about $375.00 for the install, parts, and alignment. I do know the local dealership charges over $450.00 for the exact same job.
Well, as I said a shop can do it with less work and possible damage, normally they charge between $15-$30 to press out a pair of bushings like these and to put the new ones in, but with a large vice and sawzall and safety glasses you can do it yourself and all you would need is what you have plus the new bushings...
Nice video, I wish I had the tools to do this job. My 2000 528i has 100K miles on it and it needs major maintenance, like O2 sensor replacement and such.. How bout a video on replacing shocks. I would appreciate it a lot. Thanks.
great info. i am having my bushing replaced on my 07' E65. this is very helpful being that I'm looking into doing more maintenance on my own care if its a non-complicated task. thanks
@MAPSTER7007 Yes, it is the same process for your 325xi, the bushings will look a bit different, but it is the same location and process. I will message you the link to go directly to them on our website.
By the way, I'm making my comparison against BMW genuine parts that I had previously and had only done 5000 miles. I wasn't happy with them so I replace with Powerflex and things have improved.
Depends. Do a visual inspection of the control arm bushing first to check for cracks and excessive wear.
It took me a good 6 hours to do it on a 97 M3 because it was my first time attempting and I didn't have the desired tools so I had to kinda macgyver a fell things. I could do it in 1-2 hours now that I know the tricks with my own tools.
Is it worth it? I would change them out anyway as the rubber doesn't tend to last very long.
i did the same type of job in my e46 and i didn't use those cain of electric tools ...the only problem was the aluminium shield who was a bit stubborn, the bushings came out easy...just by hand, after i removed the bushings i just put the new one with the help of vaseline, after the bushing was in position i used a rust bolt spray WD40 to remove the vaseline from there...wipe the rest of the remaining vaseline and bolt it back in posision and that was it.
@325xitgrocgetter Yes, the XI models may look a bit different under the car, but the procedure is still the same.
Great video, just wish we had you guys over here in the uk
i plan on replacing my control arms and bushings next weekend......didn't really tell me how to take the bushings out or press them in. guess i'll keep looking...
This video is beautiful art work. I hope to make how to videos this good some day.
Oh, oh! I really like that new bushing! Can you tell me where to get that one! We were planning to replace and I'd like that nice performance upgrade. =)
Great video!
That all depends on what year and model E46 you have and also if it has the sport suspension package....
would a large fly press work to remove/refit the bushings. thanks for making this video.
if it wobbles at high speed like that, it could mean that your brake rotors are warped. most likely rear ones. hope you fixed this by now
Hi, in your video about checking to see for control arm bushing failure, you show how the front wheel jumps back a bit when you brake at low speeds. The same thing happens for me ONLY if I repeatedly jab and leave the brakes at a low speed. Is that what you were doing in that video??
Long story short, BMW dealer says my suspension is fine after hoisting it up, while the indy shop wants me to change bushings. Who to trust? I need to do an alignment so wanted to sort this out first. Thx!
@Axio1matic There is not any other bushing on the control arms of a 3-series sedans from 1999 to 2005, and 3-series coupes from 1999 to 2006. When you say 240 per arm with bushing kit, would that include replacing the control arms as well? If so that is not too bad of a price per side and is just a bit higher that if you bought the control arm and bushing from us, but if that is just for the bushings alone it is extremely high.
Thanks for this video is very important and helpful to know all of this. I have a BMW E60 and the Dealer want to charge me a fortune ....
OK (and thank you for the response), so I have a large vice and a sawzall.... What more would I need to do it myself or would I need to take them to a shop somewhere to have them pressed in?
Thank you for an informative and helpful video!
@keybythee3 That is not a bad price for a shop to do it.
I have a '95 318is and my mechanic told me I need to replace front and rear control arm bushings. I had a few questions:
1) Are the rear control arm bushings pretty similar to replacing the front ones?
2) I read another DIY that said to take the whole control arm out, can I replace these with the control arm still on the car on an E36?
3) Any other way to get the old bushings off the control arm besides the impact drill? I don't have one of those. Thanks.
Why didn't you use synthetic grease on the bushing before installing them onto the control arm?
thanks it was really informative... just had the arm bush replaced
yes i saw it. that is the problem. i have to fix it as soon as i get money. i saw some bushings on ebay for 50$ are those good to buy?
If these bushings are not replaced you will see a great deal of shimmy during driving and especially under braking. Also uneven tire wear will occur causing you to purchase more and more tires over time, for the price of this repair, the gains are extremely well worth it....
I have a 2000 e46 with the sport package. How do you get the new busing into the housing and the old one out (that seemed to be the only part that was missing from this DIY (be nice: I am a novice).
I checked your website, bmpdesign and couldn't find the bushings you used in the video. They don't use that style for a 93 318i?.
Is the procedure the same for XI E46s (All wheel drive?)
It all depends if your vehicle has the sports package...
With out Control Arm Bushes, Can that bent the rack and pinion ?????
Does the worn bushing(s) also cause excessive tire/road noise?
So I have a cracked bushing in the lower control arm, will this work for replacing that? Thanks
@PyroBoi268 possibly your brake rotors are warped??
hope thats of any help to ya mate
I noticed that my steering feel changes from time to time. Sometimes, the steering feels slightly disconnected and loose and at other times it feels precise and heavy. Whenever I drive or break on rough surfaces or bad roads, the steering moves left and right whenever the tires hit the rough patches on the road and I have to hold the steering tight to make the car go straight. Is this caused by worn out Control Arm bushings?
325ci 02/50k miles
@reemdog28 Who's urethane bushings did you install, it's rare, even on track vehicles for urethane bushings to fail so quickly.
11/27/2012 - Great video guys. Thanks for uploading it. What do you think a dealership would charge for the work you guys did? What should the job cost?
my guy wants to charge me 240 per arm w/bushing kit not including labor is that a good price? is there an rear control arm bushing alike to the one shown replaced in the video that im not accounting for?
Good video. What brand of PU bushes do you use?
I don't have a BMW, but I think my Audi has this problem. My car does that back and forth motion when stopping but it also makes a clunking noise when I am stopping and taking off. Do some cars make that noise when these go bad? Or do I have a whole other problem?
anyway to get them already pressed in online?
Wish somebody would do a video on an e46 3 series doing a complete control arm R&R.
is this control arm bushing compatible with 325 i? thanks!
There's a puller??? lol I wish I had one when I pulled mine out. What a pain without the puller.
There are 60 mm and 66 mm control arms for e46 BMWs. Are you sure the bushings were the right size?
my e36 shakes you think that would be the problem?. it has brand new tire and breaks. but it still shakes when i hit the break some one help PLZz
Great Video...Removing the Voo Doo from maintaining German cars
Well presented informative video. Thanks.
where do i get these bushings at i want these not oe anyone know
I have a 04' BMW m3 that I just bought. 25k miles. I brought it in to the dealer for an oil change and to check the brakes and they said that my ball joints are loose and need to be replaced. Is this possible with only 25k miles??
You dont need to replace control arm if outer ball joint is bad. Just take control arm and with press take it out and change it.
These have solid ball joints. If any ball joint needs to be serviced, whole arms gotta be replaced
There is no good way to balance or align the wheels and tires without going to a good shop, the balancing machines and laser aligners that they use are extremely accurate and are the only true way to ensure proper alignment specifications. There are some at home kits and track-side kits for alignment, but these are only to be used for a quick alignment and are not always 100% correct
how did that just slip on mine wont go on any help.
with a press?
@528im52. they charged me 350 to change BOTH BUSHINGS...good price??
Thanks very much.. You are best.
Didn't bother to lube the new bushings?
@528im52 Great, thanks for the info. I'm going to buy a puller and use a friend's power drill for the front. The back may have to wait.
@maztx I just checked out their website. Thanks!
@528im52 damnnn where is your shop? cuz i went to this one place and theyre charging 800 wtf right?
I went to the dealership a couple of months ago and they said my front bushing needs to replaced because its starting to tear. How much is too much???The dealership was going to charge me an arm and a leg!
Great info thanks!
great video very informativ thank
If the ball joints are out you dont have to replace the entire arm.
Thanks a lot for sharing this video appreciate
A++++ Video. Thanks
very good an more thinkable when car is lift up by machine i wish to set tat lifting machine at my home
Good video
Yes, lack of use contributes to this problem. If the car had more miles, it might not have this problem.
i used the plastic tail from a hammer and vaseline
EXCELLENT!
if ya bushes are that far gone , you should really be replacing the whole wishbone set up ... everything (they bend)
Also, the mechanic told me the only way to fix it would be to replace the entire control arm and that it would cost $835!
I personally would not recommend urethane bushings as they make that creaking noise. Wasted my money on that one. Applying grease does not do the job so don't even bother to go there. Just get the rubber ones. They are easy to replace anyway so there should be no issue on which ones last longer. LimayBataanBoy
BMW charges 2.4 labor hours to replace these bushings. I'm thinking they don't appreciate this video like we all do LOL
I want to replace these myself. They told me it would cost over $400.
good