DIY guide - 2023 Mazda CX-30 SkyActiv-X: Full service (air, cabin, oil filters and oil)
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- Our Mazda CX-30 is due for its second oil change at a little under 12,000 km. We had an initial oil change done at about 3000 km, after the engine had been properly run in. The manual recommends a 20,000 km / 1 year servicing interval, but since the car uses a very thin oil (0W-20) we plan to have it changed at no more than 10,000 km. In addition, we go through the steps needed to also change the engine air filter and cabin filter.
The OE part numbers are as follows:
- Oil: Genuine Mazda Supra-X 0W-20 (made by Total), approx. 4.6 L
- Oil filter: PY8W14302
- Oil drain plug gasket / washer: 995641400
- Engine air filter: S801133A0
- Cabin filter: MP111BDGF / BDGG61J6X9A
Disclaimer: This video was made in the hope that it will be useful to other DYI-ers that work on the same vehicle model. The author of the video is not responsible for any kind of personal injury, property damage etc. that may arise if anybody tries to perform the same job on an identical or otherwise similar vehicle based on the contents of the video. Every DIY operation performed on your vehicle poses direct or indirect safety risks to you and those around you. Before attempting any such DIY job, please make sure that you have all the necessary tools, support and confidence to see it through successfully. - Авто та транспорт
Fantastic resource, thanks a lot for putting this together.
I'm very glad you enjoyed it!
hello, did you replaced your spark plugs in Skyactive X ? I couldnt find any info on how to do it, and in service manual there is 60k (km) interval.
Hi! Indeed, the plugs are due at 60K km as per the manual. Since we haven't even reached 20K yet, I haven't touched the plugs. In any case, I think this needs to be done at the dealer in order to maintain the warranty on the car.
Thank you for the good pointers. One question I would like to ask is should the car/truck be hoisted up level to ensure all the old oil being drained out completely or would it has the same result with having the car/truck front wheels driving onto the ramps (as in your case) for accessibility. Thank you for your clarification
Given that the oil drain plug is at the back of the pan, it makes sense to have the front wheels lifted slightly higher than the back wheels. However, the difference in remaining oil between doing this and having the car lifted horizontally on a ramp is very small, so I'd say pick the option that's the most comfortable for you.
@@TheMissingBolt Thank you so much for your response. All the best
Any idea if the part number of oil filter and washer is the same for SkyActiv G? By the way, where is the dealer place for buying the parts? Thanks!
Hi! Honestly, I don't know, but what I did was simply to get underneath the car, take photos of the original filter and then order an identical one. Same for the drain bolt washer. You can get the parts from Radacini Motors in Bucuresti, as they also have an online parts website (see piese.radacini.ro/mazda-3290/filtru-de-ulei-pentru-modelele-mazda-cu-sistem-hybrid.html, for example).
Hello @The Missing Bolt, thanks for your content.
This DIY oil change does not affect your 7 years guarantee from Mazda? Thanks
Depending on the country you're based in, in theory it may or may not. But if you're using only genuine parts and work carefully (not overtightening the filter or the drain bolt etc.), a dealership won't be able to identify that an additional oil and filter change has been performed at all 😉
@@TheMissingBolt that’s the idea that i was thinking after i sent you the above msg😀 greetings from Romania🍺
@@gabs2964 Salutare! 😁 Da, in Romania sigur ar putea comenta daca iti faci un schimb de ulei singur, asa ca cel mai bine este ca ei sa nu stie 😁
@@TheMissingBolt în totalitate de acord cu tine👌imi poti spune de unde ai gasit cheia pt filtru de ulei?
Eu tocmai ce am plasat comanda de CX-30 modelul 2025 cu ETA prin nov-dec 2024, motor 2.5AT MH 140cp. Deci, asteptare lunga😀
@@gabs2964 Cheia e similara cu Yato YT-08235 (diametrul filtrului parca e in jur de 70 de mm). N-am mai intalnit CX-30 cu motorizare de 2.5 si 140 de cai, n-o gasesc in configuratorul oficial. Stiu ca 2.5 a fost pus pe CX-5 si pe CX-30 doar in SUA, dar are aproape 190 de cai. E vreo versiune noua, care n-a fost anuntata inca?
What happens if you drain the oil cooler ? I accidentally removed this bung instead of the sump plug
As long as you put the plug back in and tighten it until it's snug (I don't have a torque value for that particular drain plug), there shouldn't be any issues. If the plug has a crush washer, turn the washer around before reusing it (so that the cooler-facing side now sits against the drain bolt) and after driving the car for a while, check for any leaks.
@@TheMissingBolt Thanks for your advice, I travelled 30 miles back home now lights on dash and no signs of any leaks 👍🏼
@@TheMissingBolt Scroll to 15:26 on your guide - the hex part where the drain plug screws into sitting in the sump, mine had a little movement when the bolt was tight is that normal?
@@liams2641 From what I see, that hex part is either welded or bolted to the oil pan. If it wobbles in that it's not tight against the pan, I'd expect a large oil leak to happen... If it doesn't leak it's best to keep an eye on it and ask a technician about it the next time you take your car in for a servicing at the dealer.
Skyactive-x isn't kind on oil. You should not use Mazda oil because it is not full-synthetic and is made by total. You should use full-synthetic oil fron Eneos. Use Eneos oil once and you'll see how smooth, quiet the engine becomes, and you'll see how clean the oil will remain. BTW, the best crush washer is copper washer.
I'm sorry, I disagree with you on most of what you said. I explained at the end why I used (and will continue to use) genuine parts, including the Total-based oil. Total in itself is a well-known oil blender with quality products, there's absolutely no reason to switch to anything else at this point. Like all other 0W20 oils, the Supra-X is sufficiently synthetic (has a sufficient PAO base and additive package) to do its job more than adequately for the 10,000 km limit that I'm using it for, and the engine is already very quiet with it. As for being clean - after 1000 km of running, any drained oil will be black, no matter the brand - and as I explained in the video, the color is not an indication of quality or wear. Regarding washers, maybe in certain applications (high-pressure Diesel injectors etc.) it makes sense to use copper washers, but for an oil drain plug it makes absolutely 0 difference which type of washer you use, as long as the torque on the bolt is correct and you don't reuse it.
@TheMissingBolt Of course you have your own opinion, but Total oil is just a basic HC-Synthetic oil with Mazda-prescribed additive. Full-synthetic and HC-Synthetic oils are day and night different. So much so that when I used the best, most expensive HC oil in my old Audi, it made noise like the engine is going to explode, but as soon as I put full synt like Meguin or Eneos, it runs smooth as silk. The thing about Full synthetic oil is its thermal stability and flash point and molecular bond under working condition. The best HC oil cab perform as good as full synthetic oil for maximum of only q fee hours of operation.
Of course you have your own preference on oil and the type of washer. But in such a high pressure and extremely high temperature engine such as skyactive-x, using HC oil is asking for trouble and the car will never go beyond 150,000 if it can reach 150k at all. When I am talking about full synthetic oil, I qm talking about at least 300,000km and beyond engine life. I have seen many new Mazda 3s with skyactive x and G that started consuming oil at around 100,000km mark, and that is absolutely not acceptable for an engine of 100,000km oil. Not to mention that Mazdas with skyactive x here have lower sales value than skyactive g engines. At the end you decide what to do with your car.
@@ampm9771 You make a fair point. And quoting your "the best HC oil can perform as good as full synthetic oil for maximum of only q fee hours of operation.", typically a modern oil's original lubricating properties tend to last up to about 8000 - 10,000 km or 6 - 7 months (equiv. hours of operation) - accounting for molecule break-up under HTHS, TBN, sludge prevention etc.. Hence why I believe it's far more important to stick to a shorter changing interval than the actual brand of oil used. I don't doubt that there are Mazdas who start consuming oil before 100,000 km, but I'd be very curious to know if their owners change the oil frequently or stick to the manufacturer's 20,000 km / 1-year limit... because if it's the latter, the oil consumption makes sense (and the owners are partly to blame for it). As for the washer, the pressure and temperature of the oil pan are considerably lower than those at the bearings, piston rings etc., which makes an aluminum washer at the drain point sufficient (as the Mazda engineers decided as well); but for a high-stress environment I agree that a copper washer is by far the best choice.
@@TheMissingBolt Regardless of the oil, change oil every 7k
Nobody able to hear oil difference in blind test.