If you start the mill before you put your grains in, that will stop it from jamming. Trying to crank the rollers with 3 odd KG of grains on top will always make it difficult.
Surprised people made comments about recirculating the chiller back into the kettle. Have to do that even up here in Canada sometimes, and of course whirlpool hops are usually done after knocking down the temps. Cheers to good beer 🍻
Nice mate it’s a very easy drinker! If you want to stick to all Australian hops I’d honestly just recommend dropping the topaz off you can’t replace it and up the amount of galaxy in its place. If you don’t care about the 3rd hop being an Aussie variety you could go citra, Amarillo, azacca or cascade as a replacement, basically any fruit forward hop that leans towards citrus and tropical flavours
My go to is a citra and mosaic ipa or pale ale, I’ve brewed it so many times I could do it in my sleep and I love that beer like I love life itself 🤪just brewed it under pressure for the first time. Another great episode cheers from over the pond 👍🍻
I would love to do this recipe as my first all grain batch. I'm using a brewzilla aswell. However I'm no chill/hot cubing. Do you recommend any changes to your recipe to account for the extra isomerizisation that occurs above 80°C? Don't want it to become overly bitter. Cheers lads from melb!
Hey mate, hmmm I’ll do some quick maths in a bit to suss out how much you may need to reduce your hoo dosage by, but I’d say throw the 3 min before end of boil hops in at flameout instead. and maybe throw the initial bittering hops in at the 40 min mark instead of 60? I’ve read that a lot of people treat hoo cubing as if the boil went for 20-30 mins longer than usual, so by throwing ur bittering hops in with that delay in mind you should end up in the ball park of what you’re aiming for!
@flyingwombattv appreciate it mate. I'll go with that advice, I've heard that before. Keen to hear your maths for hop dosage. Chose this beer as it seems like an easy recipe to start all grain with! Buying grain and hops from kegland if that helps with your maths etc. (Hops come in 25 gram packs)
Apologies mate forgot to come back to this! But from what I’ve heard I think you’re best off treating hot cubing as though the hops are being boiled for an additional 20/30 mins, so I’d what I said above should work out well, you could even shorten your boil time in that case if you really wanted to as well, just keep in mind ur FG will be lower
Yeah more new world varieties of Aussie pale ales have more dry hop additions now, but the classic old school versions often didn’t and were a more “traditional” pale ale. This one came out to 24 IBU’s, but you can see full stats in our website www.theflyingwombat.com.au/beer-recipes/aussie-pale-ale-version-2
Awesome timing guys, I am new to all grain brewing and was looking for a nice clean Australian ale as a daily drinker. I have grabbed this one from your website and will be trying this on my next brew day. 🍺 My question is regarding adding oxygen to the wort. I am in Brisbane and using the counter flow chiller on my system it is hard to get lower than 30 degrees at the end of the process. Currently I have been running the finished wort into my fermenter (Chubby or Junior pressure fermenter) and bringing the temps down in my ferment fridge. Obviously this chilling takes time and I am sure that the wort has less than the optimal amount of oxygen required for good yeast propagation. What products or processes do you recommend in regards to adding oxygen into the wort. I see from the video that you are using an aquarium pump and stone. Are they all ok to use? (I am guessing that if they are ok for fish then they should be fine). Or are there products out there to avoid? 2 brews in and I have a few of the standard beginner mistakes and issues that come with the learning the whole process. Last brew I managed to clog the recirculation to the counter flow chiller with hop matter on my GF30 and did not realize what had happened. Siphoned off into a cube at 70 degrees plus and chilled to ferment temps in the fridge. (This took around 30 hours) This latest brew did not show any activity for 48 hours (Helles Lager at 10 degrees using a pack of Bluestone liquid Pilsner yeast) Everything is going great now but I would have liked to see things starting to off a little quicker. I think that if I was able to give the wort a quick burst of oxygen it may have helped. Cheers all.
Glad to have you along for the journey man! Speaking of timing, last weeks video was about brewing equipment, and two of the pieces in the vid were paint mixers and aquarium pumps! Both can be used to get some dissolved oxygen into your wort. The easiest thing to do would be to get the air pump and carb stone combo from kegland, that’s the one we use in the vid, or alternatively you can also give it a 1 min blitz with a paint mixer! Here’s the vid to the equipment vid and links to all the products are in the description Equipment Every Home Brewer Should OWN! ua-cam.com/video/nZ9yu-7HecE/v-deo.html
@@flyingwombattv Awesome thanks, watched the video in the link (gave the appropriate thumbs up) and purchased the pump, sergeant sparge head and the cip spinning rotor from Kegland. Much appreciated.
@@heathm7015 Thanks for the reminder, I will also give everything a quick wash and rinse with the cleaning products I have before using for the first time.
Nicely done, I know you can't/wouldn't do the ad lib beer on every brew but it's good seeing the autopilot brew, not as scripted, little more chaotic but loads of fun making those beers, it would be interesting to see you experiment with the brew salts, as in if adding them to sparge or just all at once in the mash makes much of a difference in the end product, I hear 2 groups completely certain it does or doesn't at all haha.
Yeah would be an interesting experiment! Salts like magnesium and calcium are important for enzyme activity in mash whereas things like chloride and sulphate less so, and are more about ferm and final product, so yeah would be curious to see if there was a tangible difference
Hi from the Philippines Liked your video on the Australian pale ale I want to try it I make a 23lt brew can you plz give me the weight in kg for the to malts Also the grams of the 3 hops you put in I BIBag and can get the malts here and also the hops Thanks Noel
Hey mate! No problem for that you just need to chop all the ingredients in half. The full recipe is on our website here www.theflyingwombat.com.au/beer-recipes/aussie-pale-ale-version-2
Nice work. Will have to give this a go.
Cheers lads! We reckon this one comes out fairly similar to your black rock pale ale
If you start the mill before you put your grains in, that will stop it from jamming. Trying to crank the rollers with 3 odd KG of grains on top will always make it difficult.
Yep that’s a good tip dude! Will be using that from now on
I like my beer to taste like beer. At 4.8% ABV this one is deffo a regular everyday drink.
Absolutely mate! Sometimes you just want beer!
Surprised people made comments about recirculating the chiller back into the kettle. Have to do that even up here in Canada sometimes, and of course whirlpool hops are usually done after knocking down the temps.
Cheers to good beer 🍻
Yeah exactly right!
This is going to be the next AG brew for me, any recommendations for a Topaz hop replacement?
Nice mate it’s a very easy drinker! If you want to stick to all Australian hops I’d honestly just recommend dropping the topaz off you can’t replace it and up the amount of galaxy in its place. If you don’t care about the 3rd hop being an Aussie variety you could go citra, Amarillo, azacca or cascade as a replacement, basically any fruit forward hop that leans towards citrus and tropical flavours
My go to is a citra and mosaic ipa or pale ale, I’ve brewed it so many times I could do it in my sleep and I love that beer like I love life itself 🤪just brewed it under pressure for the first time. Another great episode cheers from over the pond 👍🍻
Cheers dude! Yeah sometimes it’s so nice to go back to basics with an autopilot brew
I would love to do this recipe as my first all grain batch. I'm using a brewzilla aswell.
However I'm no chill/hot cubing. Do you recommend any changes to your recipe to account for the extra isomerizisation that occurs above 80°C?
Don't want it to become overly bitter.
Cheers lads from melb!
Hey mate, hmmm I’ll do some quick maths in a bit to suss out how much you may need to reduce your hoo dosage by, but I’d say throw the 3 min before end of boil hops in at flameout instead. and maybe throw the initial bittering hops in at the 40 min mark instead of 60? I’ve read that a lot of people treat hoo cubing as if the boil went for 20-30 mins longer than usual, so by throwing ur bittering hops in with that delay in mind you should end up in the ball park of what you’re aiming for!
@flyingwombattv appreciate it mate. I'll go with that advice, I've heard that before. Keen to hear your maths for hop dosage. Chose this beer as it seems like an easy recipe to start all grain with! Buying grain and hops from kegland if that helps with your maths etc. (Hops come in 25 gram packs)
Apologies mate forgot to come back to this! But from what I’ve heard I think you’re best off treating hot cubing as though the hops are being boiled for an additional 20/30 mins, so I’d what I said above should work out well, you could even shorten your boil time in that case if you really wanted to as well, just keep in mind ur FG will be lower
what is the IBU on this? You mentioned it's not overly hoppy, but normally the Aus Pale Ale I know have a bit of dry-hop as well
Yeah more new world varieties of Aussie pale ales have more dry hop additions now, but the classic old school versions often didn’t and were a more “traditional” pale ale. This one came out to 24 IBU’s, but you can see full stats in our website
www.theflyingwombat.com.au/beer-recipes/aussie-pale-ale-version-2
Awesome timing guys, I am new to all grain brewing and was looking for a nice clean Australian ale as a daily drinker.
I have grabbed this one from your website and will be trying this on my next brew day. 🍺
My question is regarding adding oxygen to the wort. I am in Brisbane and using the counter flow chiller on my system it is hard to get lower than 30 degrees at the end of the process.
Currently I have been running the finished wort into my fermenter (Chubby or Junior pressure fermenter) and bringing the temps down in my ferment fridge.
Obviously this chilling takes time and I am sure that the wort has less than the optimal amount of oxygen required for good yeast propagation.
What products or processes do you recommend in regards to adding oxygen into the wort. I see from the video that you are using an aquarium pump and stone.
Are they all ok to use? (I am guessing that if they are ok for fish then they should be fine). Or are there products out there to avoid?
2 brews in and I have a few of the standard beginner mistakes and issues that come with the learning the whole process.
Last brew I managed to clog the recirculation to the counter flow chiller with hop matter on my GF30 and did not realize what had happened.
Siphoned off into a cube at 70 degrees plus and chilled to ferment temps in the fridge. (This took around 30 hours)
This latest brew did not show any activity for 48 hours (Helles Lager at 10 degrees using a pack of Bluestone liquid Pilsner yeast)
Everything is going great now but I would have liked to see things starting to off a little quicker.
I think that if I was able to give the wort a quick burst of oxygen it may have helped.
Cheers all.
Glad to have you along for the journey man! Speaking of timing, last weeks video was about brewing equipment, and two of the pieces in the vid were paint mixers and aquarium pumps! Both can be used to get some dissolved oxygen into your wort. The easiest thing to do would be to get the air pump and carb stone combo from kegland, that’s the one we use in the vid, or alternatively you can also give it a 1 min blitz with a paint mixer!
Here’s the vid to the equipment vid and links to all the products are in the description
Equipment Every Home Brewer Should OWN!
ua-cam.com/video/nZ9yu-7HecE/v-deo.html
@@flyingwombattv Awesome thanks, watched the video in the link (gave the appropriate thumbs up) and purchased the pump, sergeant sparge head and the cip spinning rotor from Kegland.
Much appreciated.
Make sure you sanitise the oxygen stone and tubing before putting it into ur fermenter 👍🏻
@@heathm7015 Thanks for the reminder, I will also give everything a quick wash and rinse with the cleaning products I have before using for the first time.
Nicely done, I know you can't/wouldn't do the ad lib beer on every brew but it's good seeing the autopilot brew, not as scripted, little more chaotic but loads of fun making those beers, it would be interesting to see you experiment with the brew salts, as in if adding them to sparge or just all at once in the mash makes much of a difference in the end product, I hear 2 groups completely certain it does or doesn't at all haha.
Yeah would be an interesting experiment! Salts like magnesium and calcium are important for enzyme activity in mash whereas things like chloride and sulphate less so, and are more about ferm and final product, so yeah would be curious to see if there was a tangible difference
Nice
Cheers
Hi from the Philippines
Liked your video on the Australian pale ale
I want to try it
I make a 23lt brew can you plz give me the weight in kg for the to malts
Also the grams of the 3 hops you put in
I BIBag and can get the malts here and also the hops
Thanks Noel
Hey mate! No problem for that you just need to chop all the ingredients in half. The full recipe is on our website here
www.theflyingwombat.com.au/beer-recipes/aussie-pale-ale-version-2
Thanks mate I will make a brew and let you know how it turned out
Hahaha
Ha, ha, ha.