Nice job and a nice looking C64! Maybe an idea from my side ... I place the new heat sinks a little bit below the notch of the IC, so that you can still see it and place it in the correct orientation. And I always write down the IC infos (IC no., revision, manufacturing date) besides the IC onto the PCB to still have it available! Greetings, Doc64!
Yeah, hiding the notch is a problem. I'll probably just mark the heatsink somehow (but not with sharpie as that just comes off when IPA gets near it). I have pictures of the chips, so I'll keep a note of them somewhere. I think I will catlog my whole collection as I start to forget what I've got and what work has & hasn't been done on them.
I think you probably could just wash them instead, but the paper thing just seems a really easy way to get them clean. Most of them were working ok, the dirt on the PCB was causing most of the trouble.
Thanks, I was pretty surprised that the sun brighting worked. I think though, that if I had tried it in the heat wave that followed a few days later, then it probably would have melted the case
Interesting to see your sun-bright results. I've had a floppy drive case sitting outside all weekend, and the results are encouraging too. (although the light patch caused by an old sticker is still clearly visible). I think I need some kind of rotating turntable to ensure more even coverage, especially for if I go out, lol
Nice work! I just compared the earlier part of this video (0:38) to the later (24:01) and assuming the lighting and exposure were similar, the keys look a lot whiter, and the case colour looks better too. I would try this on my C64, but by the time I've dug it out from the bottom of the cupboard, our 3 days of annual UK sunshine will be over 😀
It's the best bread bin C64 I have. The others I have, one has a poor case where all the standoffs are broken. The other is just the board and doesn't have all the chips.
Hi, may be a little late to the party, I've just watched your video, I was great. I'm going to take away the sunbrite technique and the plunger way.. just a couple of observations, someone has been inside your machine before because that there is an aftermarket PLA, Second, you can wash your motherboard and case with keys in a dishwasher, it's perfectly ok. And lastly, get yourself a fibreglass pencil, it's far less harsh than brasso, Keep it up and I've subscribed. I personally own 3 zx spectrum 48ks and a C64c. All restored by me. Really well done.
Hi, yeah I saw Noel's Retro Lab do the sunbright in another video with limited results, but he was trying to brighten up the most yellow Amiga I ever saw. So I thought I would try it, but I didn't expect it to work so well. Somebody has been been in the machine before, it was me! I installed that PLA in the previous video (link in the description). Yes, you can wash your case and keys in the dishwasher, one of my very early videos, I actually did that to my childhood C64 ( ua-cam.com/video/HmKa0kwECGw/v-deo.html ), however it was one of keyboards that has the rubber domes instead of the single plunger. I do need to get a fibre glass pencil, but I think the brasso is just fine, it restored my non-working gamegear cart to life, and the contacts look much better afterward. I think fibre glass is going to be more harsh than the brasso, I've seen people use a pencil eraser in some videos to do the same thing. Good work on restoring all your old tech, it feels good to get this stuff working and it's often a fight to get it to stay working, but it is rewarding when you pull it off.
Nice to see you sorted the keyboard and everythings working well. The colour of the case looks fantastic, like it just left the factory. The 64 case colours were quite varied over the years, some browner than others. Some 64s were even produced with brown function keys like the Vic-20. Excellent job 👍
Yes, thanks for pointing me at that video, it saved me a lot of time, and it worked really well. I've noticed some C64's on UA-cam with REALLY brown function keys. I assumed they had gone a nasty colour over time, so they were that ugly vomit brown from the factory?
@@DavePoo2 Yes vomit brown, I will never look at my Vic-20 the same way again 🤣 I 3D printed some commodore keycap holders, every key sits on the holder allowing them to retrobrite nicely. I've had nice results from sunbriting, although sadly as you know in the UK you don't get much of a window throughout the year to do this. I picked up a headband magnifier last week, just the job 👍
Nice Video. Good work with the keyboard. Did the space key end up working after all that (you tested every key at the end except the space key - unless i missed it)? The suspense of waiting for you to tap the space key was killing me ;) ...
I did test all the keys including the space bar, but looks like I edited the space bar out (it was quite long testing out all the keys), looks like I am just about to press the space when it cuts away!! But yes, it does work really well now, but because all the plungers got taken out and put back in different places, it would have meant that the keys that didn't work would get swapped around anyway (but they ALL work now).
@@DavePoo2 The worst was a 1541-II. While the top of the case went back to it's original colour, the face plate got more yellow :( C64c, A1200 came out great. A500 was better but not as good a result as the C64c/A1200. My bread bin style 1541 didn't seem to change at all and it's had the most turns in the garden.
@@DavePoo2 Maybe just have some peroxide available as a backup. Like I say, not all plastics react the same. Your 1541-II might come out great. The top and bottom of mine did, it was just the faceplate that didn't.
Hey nice job. You never know what you will get with the "Untested" machines on Ebay. Looks like you got a nice one. Good Idea on the heat sinks. I do the same with my machines. Glad I found the channel.
Yeah, honestly when I bought it, they didn't even show a picture of the back or side, so I wasn't sure if there was even a PCB in there. The only reason I actually bought it was because the case looked in good condition and they showed the underneath and I could just see thought the bottom vent that there did actually seem to be a PCB in there. I do think a heatsink on the SID is a good idea, some people put them on other chips as well, but I think the SID is the one that really needs it (that doesn't have one from the factory). According to Bil Herd, the chips are designed to get heat out via the legs and into the PCB, which should take heat out towards the outer of the case and out into the air, so by putting on a heatsink you could just be putting more heat inside the case (which has no air flow from fans!), but I think just one heatsinked chip allows it to use the case air and the others can use the board to get their heat out (the VIC-II does put quite a bit of heat out of that RF sheild and into the board).
I know it can be kind of hard to tell, but has there been any re-yellowing of this particular C64 case now that 4 months have passed? I've seen reports that it can happen, depending on accumulated sun hours.
It still looks pretty good. But unfortunately, I've never seen any retro bright that doesn't eventually undo itself, my A1200 keys are yellowing again after 1 year, but still nowhere near as bad as they were.
@@DavePoo2 I see. I did my A500 and A1200 with hydrogen peroxide some 5 years ago, and there has been some reyellowing of the A1200 keys and case as well, but maybe only 25% of original levels. A500 however seems fine.
Thanks. Yes I think it was worth it, because the computer has every other chip currently working, and it's hard to find a bread bin C64 these days that doesn't have a dead PLA (and it's easy to get modern replacements for that chip now thanks to the community). Also, the case is in really good condition, every other case i have is really broken in some way (including the one I kept from my childhood).
Your videos have inspired me to buy faulty C64 C and I'm trying to bring it back to life. Wish me luck :).
Good luck. The C64C is much more reliable than the bread bin. It's actually harder to find a faulty one!
Hey Dave, Well done in restoring the c64! 👍
Thanks, it turned out much better than I expected 👍
Great job! It was a pleasure to watch you work.
Thanks 👍, I'm really happy with how it turned out.
Nice job and a nice looking C64! Maybe an idea from my side ... I place the new heat sinks a little bit below the notch of the IC, so that you can still see it and place it in the correct orientation. And I always write down the IC infos (IC no., revision, manufacturing date) besides the IC onto the PCB to still have it available!
Greetings, Doc64!
Yeah, hiding the notch is a problem. I'll probably just mark the heatsink somehow (but not with sharpie as that just comes off when IPA gets near it). I have pictures of the chips, so I'll keep a note of them somewhere. I think I will catlog my whole collection as I start to forget what I've got and what work has & hasn't been done on them.
What a fantastic machine.
Indeed!
3:00 I would also wipe the carbon contacts with detol wipes for extra measure.
I think you probably could just wash them instead, but the paper thing just seems a really easy way to get them clean. Most of them were working ok, the dirt on the PCB was causing most of the trouble.
Incredibly informative video👍
Thanks, I was pretty surprised that the sun brighting worked. I think though, that if I had tried it in the heat wave that followed a few days later, then it probably would have melted the case
Interesting to see your sun-bright results. I've had a floppy drive case sitting outside all weekend, and the results are encouraging too. (although the light patch caused by an old sticker is still clearly visible). I think I need some kind of rotating turntable to ensure more even coverage, especially for if I go out, lol
Nice. I'm pretty sure I saw another UA-cam video where someone had used a turntable. Not a bad idea I think.
there you are, Tim Cheers
Nice work! I just compared the earlier part of this video (0:38) to the later (24:01) and assuming the lighting and exposure were similar, the keys look a lot whiter, and the case colour looks better too. I would try this on my C64, but by the time I've dug it out from the bottom of the cupboard, our 3 days of annual UK sunshine will be over 😀
We've got good weather for a whole week, go for it! (quick)
Another fine addition to your collection.
It's the best bread bin C64 I have. The others I have, one has a poor case where all the standoffs are broken. The other is just the board and doesn't have all the chips.
Hi, may be a little late to the party, I've just watched your video, I was great. I'm going to take away the sunbrite technique and the plunger way.. just a couple of observations, someone has been inside your machine before because that there is an aftermarket PLA,
Second, you can wash your motherboard and case with keys in a dishwasher, it's perfectly ok.
And lastly, get yourself a fibreglass pencil, it's far less harsh than brasso,
Keep it up and I've subscribed.
I personally own 3 zx spectrum 48ks and a C64c. All restored by me.
Really well done.
Hi, yeah I saw Noel's Retro Lab do the sunbright in another video with limited results, but he was trying to brighten up the most yellow Amiga I ever saw. So I thought I would try it, but I didn't expect it to work so well. Somebody has been been in the machine before, it was me! I installed that PLA in the previous video (link in the description). Yes, you can wash your case and keys in the dishwasher, one of my very early videos, I actually did that to my childhood C64 ( ua-cam.com/video/HmKa0kwECGw/v-deo.html ), however it was one of keyboards that has the rubber domes instead of the single plunger. I do need to get a fibre glass pencil, but I think the brasso is just fine, it restored my non-working gamegear cart to life, and the contacts look much better afterward. I think fibre glass is going to be more harsh than the brasso, I've seen people use a pencil eraser in some videos to do the same thing. Good work on restoring all your old tech, it feels good to get this stuff working and it's often a fight to get it to stay working, but it is rewarding when you pull it off.
Nice to see you sorted the keyboard and everythings working well. The colour of the case looks fantastic, like it just left the factory. The 64 case colours were quite varied over the years, some browner than others. Some 64s were even produced with brown function keys like the Vic-20. Excellent job 👍
Yes, thanks for pointing me at that video, it saved me a lot of time, and it worked really well. I've noticed some C64's on UA-cam with REALLY brown function keys. I assumed they had gone a nasty colour over time, so they were that ugly vomit brown from the factory?
@@DavePoo2 Yes vomit brown, I will never look at my Vic-20 the same way again 🤣
I 3D printed some commodore keycap holders, every key sits on the holder allowing them to retrobrite nicely.
I've had nice results from sunbriting, although sadly as you know in the UK you don't get much of a window throughout the year to do this. I picked up a headband magnifier last week, just the job 👍
Nice Video. Good work with the keyboard. Did the space key end up working after all that (you tested every key at the end except the space key - unless i missed it)? The suspense of waiting for you to tap the space key was killing me ;) ...
I did test all the keys including the space bar, but looks like I edited the space bar out (it was quite long testing out all the keys), looks like I am just about to press the space when it cuts away!! But yes, it does work really well now, but because all the plungers got taken out and put back in different places, it would have meant that the keys that didn't work would get swapped around anyway (but they ALL work now).
I’ve had mixed results with sun brighting. When it works it’s great. But I’ve found it depends on the plastics.
Well, I'll keep that in mind, but it appears to work well on this particular C64.
@@DavePoo2 The worst was a 1541-II. While the top of the case went back to it's original colour, the face plate got more yellow :( C64c, A1200 came out great. A500 was better but not as good a result as the C64c/A1200. My bread bin style 1541 didn't seem to change at all and it's had the most turns in the garden.
@@75slaine interesting, I have a 1541-II that I was considering trying this on, but maybe I'll rethink that now!
@@DavePoo2 Maybe just have some peroxide available as a backup. Like I say, not all plastics react the same. Your 1541-II might come out great. The top and bottom of mine did, it was just the faceplate that didn't.
you may want to use a sharpie on the top of the heatsink on the SID chip so you know which way is up (but hopefully you won't need to remove it!)
Yeah, I'm going to do that. That heatsink completely hides the orientation, which is the one thing I don't like about those stick on heatsinks.
Hey nice job. You never know what you will get with the "Untested" machines on Ebay. Looks like you got a nice one. Good Idea on the heat sinks. I do the same with my machines. Glad I found the channel.
Yeah, honestly when I bought it, they didn't even show a picture of the back or side, so I wasn't sure if there was even a PCB in there. The only reason I actually bought it was because the case looked in good condition and they showed the underneath and I could just see thought the bottom vent that there did actually seem to be a PCB in there. I do think a heatsink on the SID is a good idea, some people put them on other chips as well, but I think the SID is the one that really needs it (that doesn't have one from the factory). According to Bil Herd, the chips are designed to get heat out via the legs and into the PCB, which should take heat out towards the outer of the case and out into the air, so by putting on a heatsink you could just be putting more heat inside the case (which has no air flow from fans!), but I think just one heatsinked chip allows it to use the case air and the others can use the board to get their heat out (the VIC-II does put quite a bit of heat out of that RF sheild and into the board).
I know it can be kind of hard to tell, but has there been any re-yellowing of this particular C64 case now that 4 months have passed? I've seen reports that it can happen, depending on accumulated sun hours.
It still looks pretty good. But unfortunately, I've never seen any retro bright that doesn't eventually undo itself, my A1200 keys are yellowing again after 1 year, but still nowhere near as bad as they were.
@@DavePoo2 I see. I did my A500 and A1200 with hydrogen peroxide some 5 years ago, and there has been some reyellowing of the A1200 keys and case as well, but maybe only 25% of original levels. A500 however seems fine.
Nice to see the sunbrighting had worked for you. Is it really a bargain to pay 70£ for this machine with a dead PLA?
Thanks. Yes I think it was worth it, because the computer has every other chip currently working, and it's hard to find a bread bin C64 these days that doesn't have a dead PLA (and it's easy to get modern replacements for that chip now thanks to the community). Also, the case is in really good condition, every other case i have is really broken in some way (including the one I kept from my childhood).
Nice, I'm gonna try out some sun-brighting.
What's the game at the end?
Yeah, i honestly thought it wouldn't actually do anything to the case. The game at the end is Hammerfist en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammerfist
@@DavePoo2 Thanks for the link :)