3D Printing a Traxxas Spur Gear
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- Опубліковано 20 тра 2024
- In this video I explore the practicality of making functional 3D printed parts. I do this by replacing the broken stock spur gear in a Traxxas Slash with a 3D printed one.
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#3DPrinting #Traxxas - Наука та технологія
Many people have asked for the STL of this gear. I have now put it on Thingiverse. Also I somehow failed to mention the material of I printed this gear in during the video. It was printed with Hatchbox PLA. Nothing special at all.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4715585
That’s kind of insane!
Haha, The CAD struggle is real. Anyone who’s worked with modeling software for a living will understand the relentless errors and crashes while all you’re trying to do is utilize a simple command. Great video man. Keep it up.
today was my first day and had 3 crashes, got my a arms and gears built though.
We miss you John. Come back.
The gear holds up well, but for me, it occurred that you have compromised the strength of it using suboptimal slicing settings. The tiny holes in the middle of the teeth are the problem. Shearing and bending stresses affect that area critically, hence the estimated lifecycle of the printed gear may be shorter. I recommend increasing the wall thickness to make the small holes disappear.
What type of filament did you use??? PLA ABS NYLON PETG??
PLA
@@edstar83 That is a big mistake because PLA doesn't like heat. I would have used PETG or PLA+..
Great video, super useful info.
Great video! Loved it; do it and see what happens! ☺
What type of filament did you use? PLA ABS.........
I think newer filaments like PETG have been a game changer for applications like this. PLA in my experience is definitely more of a decorative or low stress material, it just doesn't hold up to stress long term and melts if you so much as leave it in direct sunlight, which was exactly what happened to me when I tried to make an RC car body once. PETG on the other hand is about the easiest high strength material you can print with, and I've been using it for all my RC projects now without any problems, (aside from initially dialing in my print settings.)
I remixed axle output yokes to fit perfectly and they lasted long enough to finish a 5 minute main. Easily the most stressed part of the truck and they exceeded my expectations.
I printed this in PLA+ and ran it on a brushed stampede until my gear came in. The only issue I noticed is that the hot pinion would stick to the spur after a run. Upon removing and replacing, the printed gear still looks fine and usable. Nice model. I also did notice the small holes under the teeth but as it did not fail I can't criticize the design. Maybe it makes it stronger with flexibility, who knows.
If it did happen to fail, there's a trick, you can anneal the PLA prints to make them both more temperature resistant and tougher without compromising on surface hardness and abrasion resistance, as a result they can outperform most engineering plastics.
Recipes differ. I found that even just setting temperature on the bed after the print to something like 80°C and covering up the print with a bit of sufficiently compact piece of tupperware to capture the heat and leaving it to warm up for an hour does something, but probably doesn't anneal it completely. Other people drop the prints into boiling water, or put them into an oven for a while at 110°C, but it is to note that many ovens can overshoot HORRIBLY on their regulation, and you can't have that, you'll just have a melted print. Some people use sand to support the prints while oven-annealing and to absorb the extreme temperatures that might occur. Not much clarity and a lot of ground for experimentation. Possibly ramping up the temperature slowly or in steps can be helpful, as a partial annealing might help the part survive higher-temperature stages.
What's common to all annealing methods is that the dimensions of the print will change, and the change will be shape-dependent. You expect to lose about 2-5% in X and Y and gain about 1-2% in Z, relative to printing orientation. So you will need a test run and adjustment.
I've heard about annealing before, but I haven't personally tried it. My biggest concern about doing it to one of these gears would be the shrinkage that you mentioned. It might not be a big deal if the shrinkage was perfectly uniform, but I would worry that it might make the gear into a slight oval shape instead of being perfectly circular. I've also heard that you can get PLA that is meant to be annealed and won't shrink as badly, which would probably be a good thing for something like this. For now the gear is holding up well though and it may be strong enough to where annealing isn't required.
@@Eman2000 Oh the gear if printed in this orientation should shrink uniformly! Or at least very close to. I mean look at your printer, it's not even perfectly square for sure, and if you set the same belt tension on X and Y, belt stretch is still not the same due to different length, so the print has some fundamental ovality to it! And chances are material distribution and stress is such that shrinkage would counteract the deformation caused by the printer a tiny bit, if the print is already detached from the bed.
Furthermore since you'll have a hard time predicting shrinkage and a test run is necessary anyway, the test run will tell you both the adjustment that you need to make, and whether there is warpage or other shape issues.
Other shapes can be a lot more tricky or less lucky, gears are easy.
Yes there is HT-PLA which has less shrinkage but i haven't worked with it.
@@SianaGearz If this gear breaks I'll have to give it a shot.
Thank you very much will try that. I am getting my first printer soon ive been wating for years to get the money.
hello,
what material did you use was it pla ? and it did hold that much ?!
You should try to print extra parts for it and test them to see how strong they are, like would it be worth it to print a part rather than buy? Like your Nebraska shirt!!
I dont suppose I could download your spur gear files to try here?
Can you send the link where u did it.... As i also want to print it with my 3d printer.... Thx:)
Maybe one advise: when making 3d printed parts they should be designed forn3d printed. You don't need these fancy castelations on the circumference. What is important are the interfaces : gear profile, shaft diameter, mounting bolts placement and size. The 3d printed part is inferior when you compare it to injection molding, so to overcome the strength issues you should use some walk arounds. But good job on this project. I've printed some 3d printed parts for my cars ages ago.
cool , i just 3d printed one spur gear too , spoiler it melted ( i guess brushless motors are too much for these tiny gears at 50000 rpm..)
hello! can you share this design for printing??
Use nylon for gears if your printer can handle it! If not try petg ;)
Hey man, I know you made this video to encourage people to design, but I need that exact gear you made for my truck. Do you mind sharing the stl?
Samee!!!
What filament?
Would you happen to remember what nozzle size you used? Printing a 48dp gear is quite impressive!
Just the standard 0.4mm nozzle the printer came with.
Can you post the file on thingiverse
Anyone know where I can order these gears ? No one makes a 69 tooth like this.
I’d use carbon fiber filament
Share the OBJ file?
You set the gear mesh too tight. I need to get a 3D printer.
Nah putting a bit of paper inbetween them makes the perfect mesh
Would be smart to mention the material....
Wooow🤓 i love rc cars and i made one of them but it explode because of more torture and the batteries are boom💥 and now im working on it🧐.
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