Nice video. One thing I get tired of when I watch a DIY vid is when people try to educate you on tangent details of the process. Like when you took the spark plug out you did not spend an extra 4 to 5 minuets explaining the complexities of spark gap, thank you. Went right through it in under 4 min.
Thank you, I know what you’re talking about that’s why I try to make my vids as short as possible, but still try to explain the process the best I can.
Thanks for the video! Been looking for a video of someone explaining this and nothing even came close to your vid. Just great hope you make more and again thanks!
I have a Honda Foreman TRX Fe 500 electric shift and I took it apart and checked my valves they were very tight so I done what I thought was right watching videos and loosen Tad on the T and got all met together started it up and it is louder than ever now so what did I do wrong
You need to have the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. Another very easy way to get the engine to TDC on the compression stroke without looking at the timing Marks is to Put a screwdriver in the spark plug hole so you can feel when the piston gets to TDC at the same time you should be watching the valves, watch when the exhaust valve is closing, right when it closes the intake starts opening the piston will be at TTC on the exhaust stroke at that time, but we need it at TDC on the compression stroke so you need to spin the engine exactly one more revolution to where the pistons is back on top again, now you have it at TDC on the compression stroke and you’re ready to check the valves.
First take the tank cover off, then remover the air box snorkel, then shut the fuel valve off and remove the fuel valve nob (there’s a screw that’s goes down the center of it), then discount the fuel line, then take the 2 bolts out that mount down the rear of the fuel tank, I believe that’s it, now the fuel tank should slide right out, the front just slips in, it’s not bolted down.
Nice video. One thing I get tired of when I watch a DIY vid is when people try to educate you on tangent details of the process. Like when you took the spark plug out you did not spend an extra 4 to 5 minuets explaining the complexities of spark gap, thank you. Went right through it in under 4 min.
Thank you, I know what you’re talking about that’s why I try to make my vids as short as possible, but still try to explain the process the best I can.
I totally thought this bad boy would have 4 valves , thought I had to buy shims also ,DOUBLE WIN
Thanks for the video! Been looking for a video of someone explaining this and nothing even came close to your vid. Just great hope you make more and again thanks!
Thanks for the support, I do plan on making more vids
Adjusting the valves is the easy part. Getting all the plastic crap out of the way is the hard part.
This is exactly the info I needed, thank you dude!!!
Nivea video and straight to the point.
the 2014 is a pain in the ass
When you adjusted did you adjust both valves on tdc of compression stroke?
Yes both intake and exhaust
I have a Honda Foreman TRX Fe 500 electric shift and I took it apart and checked my valves they were very tight so I done what I thought was right watching videos and loosen Tad on the T and got all met together started it up and it is louder than ever now so what did I do wrong
You need to have the engine at TDC on the compression stroke.
Another very easy way to get the engine to TDC on the compression stroke without looking at the timing Marks is to Put a screwdriver in the spark plug hole so you can feel when the piston gets to TDC at the same time you should be watching the valves, watch when the exhaust valve is closing, right when it closes the intake starts opening the piston will be at TTC on the exhaust stroke at that time, but we need it at TDC on the compression stroke so you need to spin the engine exactly one more revolution to where the pistons is back on top again, now you have it at TDC on the compression stroke and you’re ready to check the valves.
I have a 2011 420 that is making a tapping sound right where you took the valve cover off, think adjusting the valves would be a fix for that?
Most times adjusting the valves gets rid of valve tick but not always, I’d definitely adjust them and see if that does it.
Why do you remove the cover on the back side of the motor?
To turn the motor over to top dead center
How did you get the fuel tank off?
First take the tank cover off, then remover the air box snorkel, then shut the fuel valve off and remove the fuel valve nob (there’s a screw that’s goes down the center of it), then discount the fuel line, then take the 2 bolts out that mount down the rear of the fuel tank, I believe that’s it, now the fuel tank should slide right out, the front just slips in, it’s not bolted down.