Hi Thank you for this video. I have 2 Ftm400DE's both have been for repair and one of them for the 3 time out of warranty. So when the other blew again out of warranty i followed your video. I did renew the thermal compound and instead of the grid of holes i decided to make slots instead ( i joined up the holes). I have not done a repair on a transceiver before, and it is now working. Im now going to remove the other one from its chassis and add the slots to that as well. Thank You!
Hi Peter. I used to work as service manager at a Deutz Edsel Dealership and as electrical supervisor at a Linde forklift dealer and have always been impressed with German engineering. Your friend along with yourself demonstrate the same precision.
Germans build quality, technology with beautiful esthetics, could not be beaten in the old days. I love BMWs and still have my 1989 E30 Mtech II with an e36 M3 turbocharged engine. I had a Euro performance shop and addicted to the 2005 and older BMWs. I also had a 1972, 2002 tii.
Excellent video Peter! Great modification to keep that PA final cool. I really enjoy all your videos. Keep up the good work my friend and happy holidays!
Yet another Super video, I always learn something new from watching these, thanks for putting in the time and effort to produce them, cheers from North Dakota!
Great that you tried factory reset first....! Start using a Pre Heater ( good idea for upcoming videos ) and your soldering quality will go from excellent to jewellery quality.. Good Work !
Peter the right gear is important before you start the modification should really help to keep things much cooler it is amazing how to much heat can coz much damage, Peter we see again someone has been inside you can tell when someone has been at it well done it is a joy to see you at work always learning little things :)
OJ Jenkins This is f-ing wrong this bloke has taken this mod from my website mikewest25.wixsite.com/2e0ftg I came up with this mod over a year ago now with my FTM-400. This guy SHOULD NOT!! be taking the credit for this modification. I’m the original founder and it should be me taking the credit for saving radios from getting way to hot. I also have a lot more mods on my website. Use the mod that’s fine but don’t make out it was it was you that came up with this because it wasn’t !!!!.
Hello Peter. Excellent video, very educational as usual! Its a scandal that yaesu has such a bad design, obviously the transistor needs to be cooled directly. Sincerely, SEB
Very good job as usual, no power on both bands, we would suspect the power amplifier. I have a FTM-100DR, and I have transmit on one band, but not on the other. So I would suspect some sort of switching circuit, but I have no access to the schematic for the radio.
Nice done Peter, improved cooling will shure prevent a burn out mosfet. Maybe an idea to further improve it by drilling an hot air exhaust. Thanks for the excellent share.
Looks like a good solution to add some additional cooling for the PA section. Would be nice if they did something like that from the factory. Thanks for sharing.
Not sure whether the fan is blowing in or extracting air out but two things I'm wondering about - (1) where is the ingress or egress for the air circulation and (2) did Yaesu somehow filter the holes in the "X" model to keep stuff from entering the chassis if the fan in fact is pushing air in; no, don't want to start a flame war about whether air should go in or out, just curious! ;-). TNX for sharing Peter, nice fix! 73 - Dino KL0S
In this case from my opinion the fan should extracting to get the heat out off the radio. The problem is more that the originally fan is relatively weak. We have ordered a more powerful one (not installed yet). There are holes on the lids to establish together with our cut out a good air stream along the final stage...Thanks for stepping by 73
Hey Peter, thanks for your video, the work that the person before you did was a mess , can you show your technique and cleaning the board when it's had bad work done before. Anyway thank you and God bless you. R.d.l.s.
For some reason I missed this video. This is the reason I will NEVER buy another Yaesu radio. I bought two of the FT-101D models before I discovered the VHF/UHF final would burn out over and over. After having both replaced under warranty by Yaesu, they burned out again. By then I couldn't buy another final.
Nice work, Peter. I would cool the IC down good in between soldering each pin. Also for tough soldering jobs I have a Weller D550 240/325W soldering gun.
Again thank you for great video. Do not hesitate to put there 50W its designed for this power. But we see there was some thermal issue before, but now Im sure its good enough to output full 50W.
Peter....what kind of camera did you use for this video? VERY good close-ups with good focus and depth of field. I'd like to use a similar camera for inspections and repairs.
I had the same problem. The device does not output any watts. I used the device and suddenly no one received my messages anymore. I don't know if the transmitter was burnt, but the is excellent Hear all the stations I don't know how much the maintenance cost
mr peter sir a quick question about 56 mins of your video i have a FTM100DE the setup pcb board is near identical it puts 5w out on low power setting as it should .... is there a adjustment in there or a internal potentiometer to lower the 5w down to 1w to run extremely cool or what must i do as its all i need in RF power for my application /setup?
The holes seem like a good idea except it has no outlet for the exhaust, I would have drilled some more holes in the next hottest place to allow the air to come back out making the holes many times more efficient.
Love watching you do repairs and mods. Very neat and meticulous. Thanks for the video. I was curious how you would get a "cross ventilation" if there are no vents in the front of the radio. Wouldn't the fan need to pull air across the chassis and board? 73...Dan w4mnc
Whatever Mitsubishi rated the AMP for you always need to have the right heatsink designed for the wanted power. If not you have the problem we are facing here...73
Hey Peter, thank you for this video, very informative and helpful. I recently aquired a FTM-400DR with the output issue and am wanting to make sure that I get the right FET. I have seen so many that come up under the search for RD70HUF2, and the only difference I am seeing is the number on the chip underneath the "R070" on the one you have is 173, but the one I found has 132. Is this just a LOT number that does not matter? Everything else is exactly the same.
Nice job on your video. Thank you. I replaced the SO-239 and a relay in a friend's FTM-100D recently. I also had to remove the circuit board and that was the first time I had seen the thermal foam pads used. I was wondering if the heat transfer pads they use are that good at removing heat, then. Now, I'm really wondering, after seeing how the PA's fail in the 400. I was hoping you might talk a little about them in the video, too. I was very surprised how they had stacked different thickness' together to get them between the chassis and components.
Excellent video, thank you and for me to see the problem I had with my FTM-400XD where the PA module failed and presented a dead short across the 13.8 Volt PSU. It was repaired free by UK Yaesu dealer under warranty. Interested to note that no final alignment was necessary as commented on by John Kruk Yaesu USA. I also confirm the lower out of specification output powers around 3.5/17/40 Watts. Not sure the modified XD version with the holes makes much difference as the fan is so very slow and moved little air?
This is an early version of the FTM-400. They added many changes to the case for added cooling and heat dissipation. Yes, this version has heat issues. There is also several versions of the PCB board for this radio. Also, The firmware on this radio needs to be updated badly it is out of date. Nice work though Peter.
I am a small part of the MNWis network on WiresX. We did look into the FTM-400 issues last year about the overheating. We tried to find the differences in revisions on that radio. There is a few. Holes on the front bottom of the case was added this improves air flow on the underside of the PCB. You can see them on the FTM-100 cases for an example. Also the hole in the rear of the case by the fan like the ones you added. A wide rubberband was added over the fan shroud to improve air flow to allow pulling air from inside the case. More heat dissipation on the top side of the Mosfet was also added. These changes greatly improved the heat issues in later models. I love the videos from you. They are always so clear to follow with lots of detail. Nope don't work for yaesu :) Just have a few of their radios. Thanks Peter 73, N9TOW
I am waiting my radio buy new arrived this week.I didn't read much as i see now and the last days for the overheating problems that many say happens at 50watt on uhf band so i am very sad and has cought me panic .
Superbe vidéo. Je possède depuis peu un Yaesu FTM400DXR/DE, il a fonctionné pendant plusieurs jours sans aucun problème ! Je lui ai ajouté une base ventilée pour l'utilisation en fixe. Là maintenant, après plusieurs tests, il est en panne l'allumage ne se produit plus en appuyant sur ON ! Grâce à un ami qui possède le même transceiver, nous avons pu établir que le câble contrôle CT-162 ainsi que la façade de commande et son display fonctionnaient correctement ! Donc nous supposons une panne d'un composant au niveau de l'alimentation du + et - se trouvant à l'intérieur du TX ! Qu'en pensez vous ? 73's Amitiés ON4LDI
Well, another Yaesu with burnt out finals. This seems to be a manufacturing problem. Probably not enough heat sync paste used in the manufacturing process. Should there be holes in the chassis to alleviate the heat build up??? I hope my 991a doesn't develop a final problem. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Excellent Job Peter. I have several Ft400s and DR1X TX modules that needed repair and of course I added the cooling mods you suggested. I have a couple with no voltage (13v) on the driver and pre-driver (9v). Not sure whats going on there. The main PA is good no shorts and has its voltage as needed. By your vast experience, any idea where to look to find what out whats going on with the no voltage to the drivers?
Hi Peter, Your video is excellent as always. I have one quick question, how did you remove all that solder on the MOSFET? Did you use Solder wick or some other method?
Hi Peter, great video. I have this radio along with friends who use this radio and the FTM100 and 300, all of which burnt out the PA as this one did. Yeasu use these radios in their Fusion repeaters and we have had these burned out thier PAs too. 2 of my friends had their cars full of smoke when their radios failed. Why would Yeasu release these heat prone and heat sensitive radios when they cannot be used with full power? How short should your transmission be for it not to burn the PA on high power, 5 seconds, less than 5 seconds? When using 2M FM, all tow trucks and others on commercial frequencies kills the radio. This is one of Yeasu lemons, I love Yeasu but hate this radio.
Really nice modification of the cooling system. I saw the holes for inflow but no holes for exhaust. Is there enough air movement when sealed up? I have a FTM-3200DR with a similar issue except, the final is amplifying, but not enough. 1.5 watts on low, medium and high. The bias voltage does not seem to change or something is shorted and will not allow the voltage to change.
hi my help me, i'm HAM and during an alignment of the FTM400XD radio in the TX power alignment parameter of the service manual, started as per procedure from 440.050 Mhz low power and 5.3 watts, I continued up to medium power 20W. By storing the 5.3 watt parameter in the Adj 02 PWR menu with the Adj 02 DVR parameter with 9AH in low power and the medium power parameter Adj 02 PWR with 20W and confirmed with Adj 02 DVR with B0H. When I reached high power (50 watts), while I was rotating the dial to align the 50 watts, the Wattmeter with the built-in laboratory dummy load burned out. Now I don't have a tool to align and verify all 3 parameters, especially the high power one which stopped at E1A when the wattmeter burned out. On VHF I obviously didn't continue to set anything. Can you tell me the alphanumeric codes (e.g. 55H 92H E1a etc which are factory set in the respective power parameters 5 - 20 - 50 watts in UHF in the service menu? I would like to set it with those factory values since I don't have a Watt rf instrument from measure at the moment.
Hallo Kurt, es macht sogar Sinn einen kompletten Durchbruch auf Größe des Ventilators zu machen. Ebenso Thermoblocks auf der Endstufe platzieren bis diese an das Kühlblech stoßen das über der Endstufe sitzt. Ggf auch einen Lüfter mit höherem Durchsatz installieren. Das zumindest alles zusammen mache ich bei allen ältern Geräten
Hi peter, love youre video's learned a lot from them, could you do a short video how to allign the s-meter if it's possible, the meter reading on my ftm400 is way off, i know the meters are nott that accurad but on my radio everybody is almost a full reflection, i know where to be in the service menu butt there it stops for me, in the old radio's there was a pot that you could turn butt here is that not the case. Thnx.
Peter, I know that most can be found on the web. I pretty much do a search on "make model" service manual filetype:pdf on google and get pretty good results, but there are a few that I am not able to find. I thought maybe there would be a site where you can purchase some of the that are not freely available on the web. Thanks.
meu amigo eu mandei um tecnico fazer um cabo Separation Cable for FTM-400DR fez erado o radio não liga mais mim o corpo e frente sera que queimou o processador
nice job peter. however on output i disagree in the fact if my radio is 50watt output I expect to see 50watt 20 watt i see 20watt. no more no less. at the antenna jack
You might want to talk to your friend about blowing metal swarf with an air gun without safety glasses on, not good practice if he wants to avoid getting metal splinters in his eyes.
I'D REPLACE THE PA. IT MAY SOUND FUNNY BUT I'D DO IT :-) EVEN WITH MY VISION, THANK GOD FOR MY JEWELERS LOUP. FROELICHE WEINAUCHSTENS PETER. I GUESS I'LL HAVE TO LOOK UP THE UHMLAUTED O IN THE CHARACTER MAP :-) NICE TO SEE THE NEW COMPONENTS THEY COME UP WITH. TELL YOUR FRIEND MERRY CHRISTMAS TOO WHO DID THE DRILLING. GUT NEU JAHR. KA NULL O JOT OH I FORGOT, I DID NOTICE THE WAY THAT SHIELD WAS MADE FOR AIR FLOW. :-) OH, WHAT KIND OF FLUX IS THAT???
Oh wow extremely cool well done! No need for Umlaut we use it with oe ae or so as well. Thanks for the season greetings and have a Mary Christmas as well! Flux is Amtech NC559-V2
Heat kills EVERYTHING, from people to electronics to lubricants to paper. An aluminum electrolytic capacitor running at 50-60 degrees C might have a lifespan of 11,000-15,000 maybe even 20,000 hours. At 100 degrees C you will be lucky to get 1100 hours out of it. The finals in these radios are the same way. I don't know how they do it, but somehow, we only have ONE supplier for most of the Japanese amateur RF stuff, and "IF" I even attempt to buy a genuine Toshiba RF FET from someone "reputable" on eBay, who is selling genuine parts, and not the fakes, they will not ship it to me in the USA. I can have them shipped to Mexico, then drive them across the border, but they do not want to deal with RF Parts' lawyers, and their exclusive rights to sell. If someone is willing to ship you a Toshiba final, it's more than likely a counterfeit part, made on undersized dies. It will test like the real thing, but will never last. It is amazing what a little air flow across a heat sink can do. The little tiny muffin fan back there would help even more. You could probably scavenge one off of an old PC graphics card. I have to drive 1000 miles to Denver, then cut and drill some aluminum myself. This has to hold down 80 kilos of string tension for a guitar. The Koreans are responsible for this one. Their newer version was fantastic. Their first version was terrible, and destined to fail.
Hi Thank you for this video. I have 2 Ftm400DE's both have been for repair and one of them for the 3 time out of warranty. So when the other blew again out of warranty i followed your video. I did renew the thermal compound and instead of the grid of holes i decided to make slots instead ( i joined up the holes). I have not done a repair on a transceiver before, and it is now working. Im now going to remove the other one from its chassis and add the slots to that as well. Thank You!
Great job as usual, and congratulations to your mechanical friend. At last something I can fully understand lol. 73’s Lynton.
Hi Peter. I used to work as service manager at a Deutz Edsel Dealership and as electrical supervisor at a Linde forklift dealer and have always been impressed with German engineering. Your friend along with yourself demonstrate the same precision.
Germans build quality, technology with beautiful esthetics, could not be beaten in the old days. I love BMWs and still have my 1989 E30 Mtech II with an e36 M3 turbocharged engine. I had a Euro performance shop and addicted to the 2005 and older BMWs. I also had a 1972, 2002 tii.
brilliant Stuff -YAESU- Should have done a call back to every Radio for free repair upgrade
Excellent video Peter! Great modification to keep that PA final cool. I really enjoy all your videos. Keep up the good work my friend and happy holidays!
Thank you Nicholas! Have a nice season holidays.. 73
Thank you Peter, Great video. Now a lot of things about the 400 and the repeaters are making sense. Very well done!
Glad that you like it! Thanks for watching 73
Yet another Super video, I always learn something new from watching these, thanks for putting in the time and effort to produce them, cheers from North Dakota!
Thanks for stepping in! 73
Hi Peter, nice step by step repair. The camera work or “video” was excellent, almost like being there. Very enjoyable video. 73
Fantastic that we have YT these days...Thanks for stepping by Larry 73
Great that you tried factory reset first....!
Start using a Pre Heater ( good idea for upcoming videos ) and your soldering quality will go from excellent to jewellery quality..
Good Work !
Very good video helped me repair my FTM-100 similar radio.
Another nice repair Peter. Wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year. Warmest regards from Wayne and Nina. 73s
Thank you Nina! Merry Christmas! 73
Peter the right gear is important before you start the modification should really help to keep things much cooler it is amazing how to much heat can coz much damage, Peter we see again someone has been inside you can tell when someone has been at it well done it is a joy to see you at work always learning little things :)
Yes I agree the right gear is the most important first step..Thanks for watching John 73
Fantastic Video..!
Going to do this on my FTM-100, FTM-400 and the DR-1 Repeater..!
great Mod, you always do the best videos, Thank you Peter
Always glad to have you here on my channel Dennis! Thanks for comment 73
Nice repair Peter. That chassis modification should really help cool things off. Thanks for sharing my friend.
Yes together with a new fan it will work...Thanks for stepping by my friend 73
Thank you for showing the chassis modification and the machining process !
MERRY CHRISTMAS BUDDY
OJ Jenkins This is f-ing wrong this bloke has taken this mod from my website mikewest25.wixsite.com/2e0ftg I came up with this mod over a year ago now with my FTM-400. This guy SHOULD NOT!! be taking the credit for this modification. I’m the original founder and it should be me taking the credit for saving radios from getting way to hot. I also have a lot more mods on my website. Use the mod that’s fine but don’t make out it was it was you that came up with this because it wasn’t !!!!.
@@TRXLab Why a new fan ?
Hello Peter. Excellent video, very educational as usual!
Its a scandal that yaesu has such a bad design, obviously the transistor needs to be cooled directly. Sincerely, SEB
Thank you very much! Looking forward to a video that teaching how to soldering the rf mosfets, and what tool is needed. :)
Thanks for watching
Excellent video Peter. I agree never push the output too hard. M3KQW 73s from Howard.
Thank you Howard! Yeah the last few watt don't bring you further...73
Very good job as usual, no power on both bands, we would suspect the power amplifier. I have a FTM-100DR, and I have transmit on one band, but not on the other. So I would suspect some sort of switching circuit, but I have no access to the schematic for the radio.
Really simple super mod to correct a problem on a very expensive radio. We really thank you for the insight.
Thanks for watching! All the best 73
Nice job you really do a nice soldering job too.
Thank you 73
Nice done Peter, improved cooling will shure prevent a burn out mosfet. Maybe an idea to further improve it by drilling an hot air exhaust. Thanks for the excellent share.
Thank you! The lead has exhaust holes...73
Another great video Peter. Congratulations!!!
Glad that you like it Mauricio! Thanks for stepping in 73
Great repair and modification Peter!! Thank you!
Glad that you like it Brian! Thanks for comment 73
Looks like a good solution to add some additional cooling for the PA section. Would be nice if they did something like that from the factory. Thanks for sharing.
Not sure whether the fan is blowing in or extracting air out but two things I'm wondering about - (1) where is the ingress or egress for the air circulation and (2) did Yaesu somehow filter the holes in the "X" model to keep stuff from entering the chassis if the fan in fact is pushing air in; no, don't want to start a flame war about whether air should go in or out, just curious! ;-). TNX for sharing Peter, nice fix! 73 - Dino KL0S
Yes it definitely helps...and easy to manage :-)
In this case from my opinion the fan should extracting to get the heat out off the radio. The problem is more that the originally fan is relatively weak. We have ordered a more powerful one (not installed yet). There are holes on the lids to establish together with our cut out a good air stream along the final stage...Thanks for stepping by 73
Hey Peter, thanks for your video, the work that the person before you did was a mess , can you show your technique and cleaning the board when it's had bad work done before. Anyway thank you and God bless you. R.d.l.s.
For some reason I missed this video. This is the reason I will NEVER buy another Yaesu radio. I bought two of the FT-101D models before I discovered the VHF/UHF final would burn out over and over. After having both replaced under warranty by Yaesu, they burned out again. By then I couldn't buy another final.
Nice work, Peter. I would cool the IC down good in between soldering each pin. Also for tough soldering jobs I have a Weller D550 240/325W soldering gun.
Yeah a Weller D550 is strong enough for sure..Thanks for stepping in Robert 73
Nice Job Peter ! Extremely careful with the details ! 73s Renê
Thank you Rene. 73
Again thank you for great video. Do not hesitate to put there 50W its designed for this power. But we see there was some thermal issue before, but now Im sure its good enough to output full 50W.
Thanks for your approval! 73
great jot Peter I winder if there is adjust for TX power to reach 50w ?
Peter....what kind of camera did you use for this video? VERY good close-ups with good focus and depth of field. I'd like to use a similar camera for inspections and repairs.
Good Video as always. Shame that Yeasu did not foresee that problem before it was released. Example of hurrying to get product on the market.
Yeah it is always this hurrying...Thanks for watching Rohn! 73
I had the same problem. The device does not output any watts. I used the device and suddenly no one received my messages anymore. I don't know if the transmitter was burnt, but the is excellent Hear all the stations I don't know how much the maintenance cost
Great job as usual, Peter!
Thank you Eduardo 73
mr peter sir a quick question about 56 mins of your video i have a FTM100DE the setup pcb board is near identical it puts 5w out on low power setting as it should .... is there a adjustment in there or a internal potentiometer to lower the 5w down to 1w to run extremely cool or what must i do as its all i need in RF power for my application /setup?
Thanks Peter, great video and a much needed mod. Regards Bob
Thank you Bob 73
Would have been nice to see you do the solder work. Wish you wouldn't have cut that out.
Nice repair and mod big thumbs up mate
Thank you Allan 73
The holes seem like a good idea except it has no outlet for the exhaust, I would have drilled some more holes in the next hottest place to allow the air to come back out making the holes many times more efficient.
We have holes in the lead wich will create a good airflow..Thanks for watching 73
Love watching you do repairs and mods. Very neat and meticulous. Thanks for the video. I was curious how you would get a "cross ventilation" if there are no vents in the front of the radio. Wouldn't the fan need to pull air across the chassis and board? 73...Dan w4mnc
Thank you Dan! Yes it is the best idea to let the van pull across the pcb...73
Very excellent modfuction
Nice video Peter, if that had been a car it would have been recalled to fixed the manufacturing mistake 73 james
Thanks James, yeah that is true but here we have to manage it all ourselves...73
At least they aren't really pushing that transistor; Mitsubishi's data sheet says that the RD70HUF2 is rated for 70 watts maximum power dissipation.
Whatever Mitsubishi rated the AMP for you always need to have the right heatsink designed for the wanted power. If not you have the problem we are facing here...73
Yep
@@TRXLab double yep
Hey Peter, thank you for this video, very informative and helpful. I recently aquired a FTM-400DR with the output issue and am wanting to make sure that I get the right FET. I have seen so many that come up under the search for RD70HUF2, and the only difference I am seeing is the number on the chip underneath the "R070" on the one you have is 173, but the one I found has 132. Is this just a LOT number that does not matter? Everything else is exactly the same.
yes, an internal chip information
I bought today ftm 400dx new one you think out the box 45w is possible or does need mod. To get to 45 w thx for the video
Nice job on your video. Thank you. I replaced the SO-239 and a relay in a friend's FTM-100D recently. I also had to remove the circuit board and that was the first time I had seen the thermal foam pads used. I was wondering if the heat transfer pads they use are that good at removing heat, then. Now, I'm really wondering, after seeing how the PA's fail in the 400. I was hoping you might talk a little about them in the video, too. I was very surprised how they had stacked different thickness' together to get them between the chassis and components.
Yeah the foam is not bad but can't really heal a design error..Thanks for stepping in 73
Excellent video, thank you and for me to see the problem I had with my FTM-400XD where the PA module failed and presented a dead short across the 13.8 Volt PSU. It was repaired free by UK Yaesu dealer under warranty. Interested to note that no final alignment was necessary as commented on by John Kruk Yaesu USA. I also confirm the lower out of specification output powers around 3.5/17/40 Watts. Not sure the modified XD version with the holes makes much difference as the fan is so very slow and moved little air?
Thanks for watching and comment 73
This is an early version of the FTM-400. They added many changes to the case for added cooling and heat dissipation. Yes, this version has heat issues. There is also several versions of the PCB board for this radio. Also, The firmware on this radio needs to be updated badly it is out of date. Nice work though Peter.
Ah interesting Dough. Thanks for the feed-back! Sounds like you work for yaesu...73
I am a small part of the MNWis network on WiresX. We did look into the FTM-400 issues last year about the overheating. We tried to find the differences in revisions on that radio. There is a few. Holes on the front bottom of the case was added this improves air flow on the underside of the PCB. You can see them on the FTM-100 cases for an example. Also the hole in the rear of the case by the fan like the ones you added. A wide rubberband was added over the fan shroud to improve air flow to allow pulling air from inside the case. More heat dissipation on the top side of the Mosfet was also added. These changes greatly improved the heat issues in later models. I love the videos from you. They are always so clear to follow with lots of detail. Nope don't work for yaesu :) Just have a few of their radios. Thanks Peter 73, N9TOW
I am waiting my radio buy new arrived this week.I didn't read much as i see now and the last days for the overheating problems that many say happens at 50watt on uhf band so i am very sad and has cought me panic .
Superbe vidéo.
Je possède depuis peu un Yaesu FTM400DXR/DE, il a fonctionné pendant plusieurs jours sans aucun problème !
Je lui ai ajouté une base ventilée pour l'utilisation en fixe.
Là maintenant, après plusieurs tests, il est en panne l'allumage ne se produit plus en appuyant sur ON !
Grâce à un ami qui possède le même transceiver, nous avons pu établir que le câble contrôle CT-162 ainsi que la façade de commande et son display fonctionnaient correctement !
Donc nous supposons une panne d'un composant au niveau de l'alimentation du + et - se trouvant à l'intérieur du TX !
Qu'en pensez vous ?
73's Amitiés ON4LDI
great job mate 👍
Well, another Yaesu with burnt out finals. This seems to be a manufacturing problem. Probably not enough heat sync paste used in the manufacturing process. Should there be holes in the chassis to alleviate the heat build up??? I hope my 991a doesn't develop a final problem. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Excellent Job Peter. I have several Ft400s and DR1X TX modules that needed repair and of course I added the cooling mods you suggested. I have a couple with no voltage (13v) on the driver and pre-driver (9v). Not sure whats going on there. The main PA is good no shorts and has its voltage as needed. By your vast experience, any idea where to look to find what out whats going on with the no voltage to the drivers?
as always thank you peter
Thank you 73
Good job! but maybe dust will permeate from new ventilation channels?
Nice one TRX
Thank you 73
I’m not a tech and that is why I’m asking. Why not thermal compound between power module and copper beneath it?
mine has been back to Yaesu 3 times for low audio and low power output. sold it and bought a Kenwood.
Actually, with all the repeaters around on VHF and UHF, 25 watts sould be more than enough. 73...Dan
That is really a shame Jeff...3 time is really too much..73
Do you recommend that I do the chassis cooling modification even if I’ve not had the failure? My radio is often exposed to 45 degrees C.
Hi Peter, Your video is excellent as always. I have one quick question, how did you remove all that solder on the MOSFET? Did you use Solder wick or some other method?
Hi Rich, well first I used a desoldering gun and then some wick the get the rest away..Thanks for watching 73
Peter what should one expect to pay for this repair and modification?? Thanks for the great video..
millions
Very accurate job Peter & Friends as usual ..CIAO '73 (what about your dog !? ..) :)
Thanks you Alessandro! Dog is fine thanks for asking 73
Hi Peter, great video. I have this radio along with friends who use this radio and the FTM100 and 300, all of which burnt out the PA as this one did. Yeasu use these radios in their Fusion repeaters and we have had these burned out thier PAs too. 2 of my friends had their cars full of smoke when their radios failed. Why would Yeasu release these heat prone and heat sensitive radios when they cannot be used with full power? How short should your transmission be for it not to burn the PA on high power, 5 seconds, less than 5 seconds? When using 2M FM, all tow trucks and others on commercial frequencies kills the radio. This is one of Yeasu lemons, I love Yeasu but hate this radio.
Probably a good idea to place a fan on top of the cover with holes drilled as an extractor and one on the cooling fin as the blower.
Thanks for your video. really useful for me. I ll do same work on my ftm 400. 73 de ik7mxh
What’s the part number for the final PA, and where can they be ordered from?
Really nice modification of the cooling system. I saw the holes for inflow but no holes for exhaust. Is there enough air movement when sealed up?
I have a FTM-3200DR with a similar issue except, the final is amplifying, but not enough. 1.5 watts on low, medium and high. The bias voltage does not seem to change or something is shorted and will not allow the voltage to change.
Yes in the housing are holes for a good air stream. Thanks for watching 73
hi my help me, i'm HAM and during an alignment of the FTM400XD radio in the TX power alignment parameter of the service manual, started as per procedure from 440.050 Mhz low power and 5.3 watts, I continued up to medium power 20W.
By storing the 5.3 watt parameter in the Adj 02 PWR menu with the Adj 02 DVR parameter with 9AH in low power and the medium power parameter Adj 02 PWR with 20W and confirmed with Adj 02 DVR with B0H.
When I reached high power (50 watts), while I was rotating the dial to align the 50 watts, the Wattmeter with the built-in laboratory dummy load burned out. Now I don't have a tool to align and verify all 3 parameters, especially the high power one which stopped at E1A when the wattmeter burned out. On VHF I obviously didn't continue to set anything.
Can you tell me the alphanumeric codes (e.g. 55H 92H E1a etc which are factory set in the respective power parameters 5 - 20 - 50 watts in UHF in the service menu? I would like to set it with those factory values since I don't have a Watt rf instrument from measure at the moment.
Hallo Peter, sollte man die Bohrungen evtl.vorbeugend anbringen ? Danke de dg1fbp
Hallo Kurt, es macht sogar Sinn einen kompletten Durchbruch auf Größe des Ventilators zu machen. Ebenso Thermoblocks auf der Endstufe platzieren bis diese an das Kühlblech stoßen das über der Endstufe sitzt. Ggf auch einen Lüfter mit höherem Durchsatz installieren. Das zumindest alles zusammen mache ich bei allen ältern Geräten
Hi Peter ,
Congratulations excellent video, What brand of flux do you use for soldering?
Thank you! I'm using AMTech flux.. 73
hello maybe do you have the alignment default values of Yaesu FTM 400?
do you have a part number for the mosfet ??? my FTM 400 has the same issue
No heat sink compound?
how do people get intouch with you to book a repair?
Hi peter, love youre video's learned a lot from them, could you do a short video how to allign the s-meter if it's possible, the meter reading on my ftm400 is way off, i know the meters are nott that accurad but on my radio everybody is almost a full reflection, i know where to be in the service menu butt there it stops for me, in the old radio's there was a pot that you could turn butt here is that not the case. Thnx.
next time when I come across
Good work Peter,the two capacitors near the power dc input look a little effected by heat also,very good repair job as usual,regards Colin G1PGI
Yes you are right this caps looks a bit funny but those are fine. Thanks for watching
I see where you brought cool air in via the holes but where's it going to go? No exit path will be the same as no holes at all.
There a additional holes on the cover for having a good air stream
Does the radio have a fan on the back ? I hope my question isn't too early.
Yes
Where do you obtain the service manuals?
Yeasu has them. Call and ask for Parts.
Most are available on the web...73
Peter, I know that most can be found on the web. I pretty much do a search on "make model" service manual filetype:pdf on google and get pretty good results, but there are a few that I am not able to find. I thought maybe there would be a site where you can purchase some of the that are not freely available on the web. Thanks.
Great video again thanks. 73
Thanks for comment Drew...73
To remove double fet hot air rework? Blown Ft-991 my qth.
meu amigo eu mandei um tecnico fazer um cabo Separation Cable for FTM-400DR fez erado o radio não liga mais mim o corpo e frente sera que queimou o processador
I decide to buy Yaesu ftm-400XDR, is it good idea or I need to go for other option. Plz advice me.
The last version have a revision which should be okay.
@@TRXLab Thank you
Same thing just happened to my radio 🤦🏻♂️ help 🙏 what can I do
I have a ftm400dr that will not power on . do you have any idea what the cause mite be . it has good fuses and good voltage
Check protection diode.
Does the radio have the capability for ignition sense?
If so, check the picofuse for that, most are 4A rating.
nice job peter. however on output i disagree in the fact if my radio is 50watt output I expect to see 50watt
20 watt i see 20watt. no more no less. at the antenna jack
Yeah I would agree if this is a 100% perfect design but it does not make sense to jeopardize another IC..Thanks for watching 73
My clones are the same way.i could not believe thy did this oh well kg6mn
Do you have a website?
I'm using x30 antenna
Watch at 1.25x , your welcome.
that is true
what flux do you use?
Amtech NC559-V2
You must be watching the channel of Louis Rossmann if you use that stuff.
friend I have a radio of that there that does not call anymore I did the wrong head cable it will be that it has concert and compesa to arrange
Lucivaldo, a lot can have happened to your radio no way to say something on remote, sorry
weld one
You might want to talk to your friend about blowing metal swarf with an air gun without safety glasses on, not good practice if he wants to avoid getting metal splinters in his eyes.
I'D REPLACE THE PA. IT MAY SOUND FUNNY BUT I'D DO IT :-) EVEN WITH MY VISION, THANK GOD FOR MY JEWELERS LOUP. FROELICHE WEINAUCHSTENS PETER. I GUESS I'LL HAVE TO LOOK UP THE UHMLAUTED O IN THE CHARACTER MAP :-) NICE TO SEE THE NEW COMPONENTS THEY COME UP WITH. TELL YOUR FRIEND MERRY CHRISTMAS TOO WHO DID THE DRILLING. GUT NEU JAHR. KA NULL O JOT OH I FORGOT, I DID NOTICE THE WAY THAT SHIELD WAS MADE FOR AIR FLOW. :-) OH, WHAT KIND OF FLUX IS THAT???
Oh wow extremely cool well done! No need for Umlaut we use it with oe ae or so as well. Thanks for the season greetings and have a Mary Christmas as well! Flux is Amtech NC559-V2
Heat kills EVERYTHING, from people to electronics to lubricants to paper. An aluminum electrolytic capacitor running at 50-60 degrees C might have a lifespan of 11,000-15,000 maybe even 20,000 hours. At 100 degrees C you will be lucky to get 1100 hours out of it. The finals in these radios are the same way. I don't know how they do it, but somehow, we only have ONE supplier for most of the Japanese amateur RF stuff, and "IF" I even attempt to buy a genuine Toshiba RF FET from someone "reputable" on eBay, who is selling genuine parts, and not the fakes, they will not ship it to me in the USA. I can have them shipped to Mexico, then drive them across the border, but they do not want to deal with RF Parts' lawyers, and their exclusive rights to sell. If someone is willing to ship you a Toshiba final, it's more than likely a counterfeit part, made on undersized dies. It will test like the real thing, but will never last. It is amazing what a little air flow across a heat sink can do. The little tiny muffin fan back there would help even more. You could probably scavenge one off of an old PC graphics card. I have to drive 1000 miles to Denver, then cut and drill some aluminum myself. This has to hold down 80 kilos of string tension for a guitar. The Koreans are responsible for this one. Their newer version was fantastic. Their first version was terrible, and destined to fail.