A very organized video! Thank you so much! This is exactly what I was looking for. My grandfather was a photographer and I have inherited his, repaired it, and am now just learning how to use it.
Found one in very good condition. My wife's granfather owned the camera and used it but it has been stored well for probably +50 years in it's leather case. I'm going to get it maintenanced with a vintage camera profesional and use it :) absolute beaty of a camera. The art deco body and plain aesthetics are a work of art. Can't wait to start using it
Great job in describing this gem. Loved it. And what a great era when photography was an art, a marriage of physics and chemistry! and expensive indeed.
Found this camera on my grandpa's place when he passed. This video has been awesome to get me to understand the camera basics! I need more reading and practice for sure, but it's a great starting point. Thanks a lot!
An absolute beauty of a camera, I personally own 2 Zeiss Ikon cameras, a Contina Matic 2 and a small continette. The oils used to lubricate the shutter is from what I've heard is quite exotic, and I can confirm with experience to avoid excessive heat at all costs! When the oil heats up it becomes very liquidy and flows down the shutter blades and over time with heating and cooling it causes the shutter to stick or break. And finding a repairman to repair a broken shutter is not easy!
Yes, the old cameras are really susceptible to this. I know of one repairman in the U.S. and maybe a second who will work on these, but there aren't many. I also released my video on the Continamatic II the other night, too, if that's of interest.
I'm from South Africa and I only know of one repairman, it is very sad that there are not a lot of people who can repair these old cameras. They really are incredible to use. Thanks, I've already watched and liked it. :)
Hi David and thx for this video. The contaflex is a very charming camera. I got 4 for 100 euros and I was astonished by their build quality. Their view finder is very clear (the part of the video you are showing it does not give it the right value it diserves but it s difficult to film it I know) the shutter is precise and the more recent models got a cell , some interchangeable lens, and the last ones are even automatic. I am not sure they are as fragile as you describe at the end of the video. As I said I got four of them in a pack, all working -which is not bad for papys more than 60 years old- and it s mainly due to their exquisite build quality. At that time Germany was reigning on the camera business and was building expensive and qualitative items. Then in 1959 came the Nikon F and we know the rest of the japonaise domination on this market
Awesome video. I bought a Zeiss tenax. It's a range finder and I never shot it but it's weird. I think it has a leaf shutter 50mm f2.8. The weird thing is the shutter speed seems to correlate to what aperture you have. For example, when set to f2.8, the matching shutter speed is slower. When aperture is like f5.6, the shutter speed is faster. I hope I'm explaining it correctly. It's almost as if, if the shutter hole is smaller, it would cause the window to close faster since it has to travel less. If shutter hole is bigger, it has a slower shutter because it has to travel more to close the hole.
Very good demo of the camera. This was a Contaflex II There were lens options not mentioned. The fixed lens is excellent and fast for the times. I own a few models: II, IV .
10:18 Other advantages to Contaflex Hack film-loading method. 1 - When you snip the trailing edge off the "live" cassette (from which you are feeding), the leader is "out" and ready for insertion into a Patterson reel or equivalent; it's impossible to accidentally spool it into the cassette. 2 - Shots already taken are (for the most part) protected if the worst happens and the camera back gets opened too soon, as is most of the rest of the film. So if you opened the back accidentally in the middle of a 36 shot roll, you'll lose the one in front of the shutter and probably the one each side, but the rest should be good. I suppose it was only a short step from there to the 110-style system of actually putting a plastic bridge between the two and assembling the whole lot as a drop-in cartridge.
I did a review of this camera a few months ago and it now works fine. Recently, there was a video on the Chris Sherlock channel about servicing this model, which I also subscribe to because I am learning to repair cameras from my collection.
Very enlightening, numerous explanations on features that the original Owners Manual never explains (might be the worst written document I've ever read, all marketing BS with scant useful details - I hope the Zeiss engineers were much better than their Support and Marketing people!). Particularly helpful that the manual didn't address is what direction to turn the locking keys on the bottom to open the film compartment. I also appreciated a proper and better expiation of the timer switch, but maybe this should include a word of caution - I've been warned by others to avoid using a delayed timer on older cameras. It's said this is often a weak point in their design and the part most prone to failure, which could lock up the works, thus requiring a difficult and expensive fix. And as David alluded to, it's almost impossible to find anyone to work on these complicated cameras, not to mention the cost, so I'm not gonna tempt curiosity or fate here. Thanks so much David!
I guess you won't read this but...I just find this camera in my grandpa bassemet's and even whit you wonderfull video and can see anything through the viewfinder...how can I open it ?
Try footing the shutter at different speeds. Sometimes old camera mirrors get stuck at slow speeds. If that doesn't work it probably needs a professional repair as there may be some thick lubricating grease in the mechanism.
My grandma has a Contaflex 1 that seems to work well, except the frame counter doesn't work properly. Are there any common issues with the frame counters on these cameras?
I found that there were 3 versions of "Contaflex I" and the serial number in front is the clue to tell apart wich is wich and goes like this : xxxxxx (six digit) is "Contaflex Ia" shutter speed is non standard 500, 250, 100, 50, etc and neck strap lugs are on the 45 degree corners. "Contaflex Ib" serial 1xxxxxx to 153xxxx is like the first version but the shutter speed standard to 500, 250, 125, 60, etc. "Contaflex Ic" serial number starting from163XXXX and above is like the previous version but the neck strap lugs on the sides of the camera like the one showed in this video.
I'm having a bit of trouble with mine, the shutter button with the little lever press down but it doesn't seem like it's taking anything, even with no film. The lever turns smoothly and just goes back to its original position, But when I go to press the button nothing happens.
If you set the shutter at different speeds and look through the camera, back open, no film, while pointing the camera at a room light (not the sun), can you see light flash in the shutter when you fire it?
I love the video thank you so much for it I just picked one up and I’m extremely excited to shoot with that I use besides lenses for cinema use for this will be my first time using them for still photography
thanks for review. very useful. I've one in Ebay and like to buy. but I'm not sure about mirror shaking during pushing shutter release button. I like to aks when shutter release is triggered, is ther time different between focal plane shutter and leaf shutter? if there is a time different how much it that? if not, how big is mirror shake? thanks David.
Thank you. Mirror shake isn't so much of an issue with this camera because of the leaf shutter and because of the camera's weight. It takes a lot of force to move a heavy camera and the mirror simply doesn't have that.
My father was given a Contaflex shortly before I was born by his mother for the purpose of recording my parents first born child, myself... Years ago this camera quit working, both the shutter and aperture. I needed a fully manual film camera for a photography class I’d planed on taking, had my mother ship me the camera thinking I could get it repaired at the local camera shop. This is one of he most complex cameras made, thus nobody knows how to repair it, I did find a gentleman in California well versed in the Contaflex so I shipped it off to him for repair. He did an excellent job thus I have my dads vintage camera along with all of the original papers, bill of sale, a letter from the manufacturer, even the box... www.zeisscamera.com/first.shtml
Thank you! Yeah, these are super complex. Zeiss and Rollei cameras of the era were exceedingly complex to help prevent Japanese and Chinese camera makers from copying the engineering. The Germans couldn't stop the Asian clone cameras with trademark and intellectual property rights, so they just designed them with such complexity that they couldn't be copied.
is there a way to fix shutter blades which are stuck? there is a place i know that could probably fix it, but they said it isn't worth it as they charge 120 euros (about 130 usd per hour - and that of course doesn't include any spare parts or whatever else is needed to get it fixed)
That price sounds about right. These are insanely complex cameras and repairing them takes a long time. I'm surprised they only quoted you an hour. I know a couple people in the U.S. who have repaired these and it's usually a half-to-full-day ordeal. I believe there is a guy in New York who repairs them, though I'm blanking on his name. A good place to check for recommendations in the EU would be either the MFLenses (manual focus lenses) forum or Photo.net. APUG's forum might also have good recommendations.
Thanks for the quick reply! Well, they just said that is how much they charge per hour, they never said how long it would take. Like I said before, they were just trying to tell me that it isn't worth it. Apparently one way to fix that problem is to use lighter fluid to clean the shutter blades, as this problem is caused by old grease or something like that, and that the lighter fluid would dissolve that or free it up somehow. This seems to be the only DIY fix I have heard of for this problem. And of course it is very risky. If I can't fix it, I might just buy another one as it really seems like a solid camera and I have only heard good things about it. What is the absolute maximum I should spend on one of these?
The lighter fluid trick works if it is in fact grease. If it's a shot or weak spring, corrosion, or a mis-aligned gear, it won't work. The lighter fluid trick also is not always a permanent fix. The method of action behind it is that the lighter fluid is a thinner, more volatile (evaporates quickly) petroleum compound compared to the heavier petroleum-based grease. So the lighter fluid thins and dissolves the grease. Actuating the shutter flings the thinned grease to the insides of the shutter away from the mechanisms. Then the lighter fluid evaporates leaving the thicker grease in places where ti can't do any harm. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. If you remove the lens elements, there's really no risk. If you can't and you get lighter fluid on the lens, it's not the end of the world as the residue can be cleaned easily with 91% rubbing alcohol or standard lens cleaning fluid. If the thinned grease does not get fully removed, then when the lighter fluid evaporates the problem will return. I've done this before and sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
Alright, I will give it a try this weekend! I am assuming that the problem is grease related as this camera hasn't been used in at least 15 years. Will the shutter blades "open up" right after I apply the lighter fluid or will it take a few minutes before something happens? Also how do I remove the lens elements?
How they respond is different for every camera. Some will work quickly, others will take a little time. It depends on whether or not grease is the only (or primary) culprit and how bad the issue is.
When you look at the film, was the leader (the very front) dark black? Also, can you read any numbers in the perforations? If yes to those questions, then with no film in the camera look through it and point it at a light with the camera's back open. Then test the shutter at different speeds. Can you see light through it? Let me know and I can probably tell you what happened.
Hey man! Thumbs up and subscribed. Great video. Thanks a lot, found this camera for only 40€ at paris so I bought it without even knowing about analog photography. Your video helped a lot. What is that attachment? Can I find it?
The only way to do that is to do exactly what I do, but don't open the film door until the film is rewound. The process for rewinding and removing the film is identical, but this video shows what's happening inside the camera.
@@DavidHancock how to remove the film after I used it. once, unaware, I took the film out in the sunlight and when I took it to develop there was no photo. then I found out that I have to do it in the dark. yesterday I took it off and I hope the photos are there.
@@denisagal5732 Basically, just be sure to fully rewind the film into the cassette when you've finished a roll. Then open the camera back and remove the film. That will prevent the film from being erased by exposure to light.
I have a a Contafles IV, the problem is, that the viewfinder stays black. Don't know if this can be fixed for realtively low cost.....or i might give it a shot myself. Not too good
That sounds like a timing issue or a buildup of sticky lubricant. These are VERY hard camera to work on and I would not recommend trying it yourself unless you're extremely comfortable with complex mechanical repairs. There are people who repair these in the U.S. and Europe, but the repairs aren't cheap.
Thaks for the answer. I gonna see and take it with me to a shop tomorrow, and ask them what it might cost. Lets hope its not that expensive. :/ Really would love to try this camera out!
Hey, got good news. Fiddled around with the camera and cocked and released it over and over again, and the mirror got unstuck! Super cool, iam so looking forward to make some photographs with it! Lets hope the light-meter is still accurate, but I think so! :D
But the Focussing ring is so stiff, its like a real workout to focus xD. Nothing for fast shots, but probably great for landscapes! Got a Tripod of similar age...."made in west germany"...but its heavy as fuck. I have been thinking about getting myself a proper Tripod. Any suggestions? Iam gonna be visiting Iceland in September this year, and I really want to take nice landscape photos with my nex-7, so I gonna need a proper tripod that does not weight a ton. ^^
do you know if I can use any type of film for ikon contaflex model 1, like can I use kodak, fuji film or whatever?? And how does it work because it has no battery? And how much is this camera worth?
Any 35mm film will work. Everything is mechanical so the film advance process arms all the springs. As for value, a camera is as valuable as the photos you can take with it.
Unfortunately most of these lovely cameras will have problems with the prism and or mirror, mostly in the form of the silvering plating coming away from the mirror or prism and making the view through the viewfinder rather "grungy". But they will still be useable. The shutters are very complicated and if they are not working properly, walk away for even if you can find someone to fix it, it will be very expensive to repair. I have had four in the past few years, not paid much money for them, but everyone has had problems, either with optical " corrosion", stuck or sticking shutter, or most common, fungus on the lens which etches into the glass and makes it useless.
@@DavidHancock I mean a bit of both I guess. I know next to nothing about what kind of film to use and I don't know anything about iso or shutter speed. My model also has a light meter but the numbers on it don't mean anything to me. A point in the right direction would really be very much appreciated
I would just like to add a correction. You indicated that interchangeable lens 35mm SLRs weren't in vogue when the Contaflex camera came out in the early 1950. That statement may have been correct for a leaf shutter SLR, but it wasn't true for 35mm SLRs in general. The first 35mm interchangeable lens SLR was the Exakta that revolutionized 35mm photography in 1936. It had fully interchangeable lenses. After World War II, other SLRs followed including the Rectaflex and the slightly later Contax S. They also had a pentaprism, which really made the 35mm SLR into a truly professional camera. In 1950, the Exakta Varex, one upped these cameras by having an interchangeable finder system, either a waist level finder or a pentaprism. The Contaflex I and II were wonderful cameras. I have one, but they were aimed at the advanced amateur.
Fair point, though I think my remark was more due to the relative scarcity and high price of SLRs and that viewfinder and rangefinder cameras still dominated the 35mm market at the time.
That's a bit spendy for these. I think they run in the $35-50 range, typically. I could be wrong, though, as camera prices have gone up a LOT in the last year or so.
The thing with any camera is condition. I spent $75 for my first one but it was in like new condition. It was immaculate and is one of my favorites. I have 2 others that I spend about $30 but they both seem to be suffering from corrosion on the mirror. Both of those are still serviceable too but it is a bit distracting when trying to focus through the viewfinder.
just buy one here in mexico, in box, only 1000 pesos, like 50 dollars it is my first film camera, actually looking for a low budget pentax or canon, but the oldman selling them was an asshole, a lady came with these camera looking to sell it, (camera belonged to his father) but the oldman only offered her like 5dllrs, so i jump and pay the lady the money she was looking for. not knowing what a pice of history i just buy. SORRY FOR BAD ENGLISH
![Zeiss Ikon Contessa LK & Tessar 2,8/50 [TOWARY ŚWIATŁOCZUŁE 39]](/img/n.gif)
A very organized video! Thank you so much! This is exactly what I was looking for. My grandfather was a photographer and I have inherited his, repaired it, and am now just learning how to use it.
Thank you!
Found one in very good condition. My wife's granfather owned the camera and used it but it has been stored well for probably +50 years in it's leather case. I'm going to get it maintenanced with a vintage camera profesional and use it :) absolute beaty of a camera. The art deco body and plain aesthetics are a work of art. Can't wait to start using it
Fantastic!
Great job in describing this gem. Loved it. And what a great era when photography was an art, a marriage of physics and chemistry! and expensive indeed.
Thank you and I agree completely!
Found this camera on my grandpa's place when he passed. This video has been awesome to get me to understand the camera basics! I need more reading and practice for sure, but it's a great starting point. Thanks a lot!
Thank you! It can be very nice to hold a camera that those we've lost have held and used. It's a connection to them without a doubt.
Thank you very much for your time making this video. I have just purchased this camera from its second owner. This have been extremely useful.
Thank you and that's a great find!
This is the first camera I ever had. Great recollections. I have another one exactly the same now and it makes great pictures.Good video.
Thank you!
An absolute beauty of a camera, I personally own 2 Zeiss Ikon cameras, a Contina Matic 2 and a small continette. The oils used to lubricate the shutter is from what I've heard is quite exotic, and I can confirm with experience to avoid excessive heat at all costs! When the oil heats up it becomes very liquidy and flows down the shutter blades and over time with heating and cooling it causes the shutter to stick or break. And finding a repairman to repair a broken shutter is not easy!
Yes, the old cameras are really susceptible to this. I know of one repairman in the U.S. and maybe a second who will work on these, but there aren't many. I also released my video on the Continamatic II the other night, too, if that's of interest.
I'm from South Africa and I only know of one repairman, it is very sad that there are not a lot of people who can repair these old cameras. They really are incredible to use. Thanks, I've already watched and liked it. :)
Hi David and thx for this video. The contaflex is a very charming camera. I got 4 for 100 euros and I was astonished by their build quality. Their view finder is very clear (the part of the video you are showing it does not give it the right value it diserves but it s difficult to film it I know) the shutter is precise and the more recent models got a cell , some interchangeable lens, and the last ones are even automatic. I am not sure they are as fragile as you describe at the end of the video. As I said I got four of them in a pack, all working -which is not bad for papys more than 60 years old- and it s mainly due to their exquisite build quality. At that time Germany was reigning on the camera business and was building expensive and qualitative items. Then in 1959 came the Nikon F and we know the rest of the japonaise domination on this market
Thank you!
Very well done. Thank you for taking the time to do the contaflex video. I have one arriving soon.
Nice! These are fun to use.
Awesome video. I bought a Zeiss tenax. It's a range finder and I never shot it but it's weird. I think it has a leaf shutter 50mm f2.8. The weird thing is the shutter speed seems to correlate to what aperture you have. For example, when set to f2.8, the matching shutter speed is slower. When aperture is like f5.6, the shutter speed is faster. I hope I'm explaining it correctly. It's almost as if, if the shutter hole is smaller, it would cause the window to close faster since it has to travel less. If shutter hole is bigger, it has a slower shutter because it has to travel more to close the hole.
Very good demo of the camera. This was a Contaflex II There were lens options not mentioned. The fixed lens
is excellent and fast for the times. I own a few models: II, IV .
Thank you!
10:18 Other advantages to Contaflex Hack film-loading method.
1 - When you snip the trailing edge off the "live" cassette (from which you are feeding), the leader is "out" and ready for insertion into a Patterson reel or equivalent; it's impossible to accidentally spool it into the cassette.
2 - Shots already taken are (for the most part) protected if the worst happens and the camera back gets opened too soon, as is most of the rest of the film. So if you opened the back accidentally in the middle of a 36 shot roll, you'll lose the one in front of the shutter and probably the one each side, but the rest should be good.
I suppose it was only a short step from there to the 110-style system of actually putting a plastic bridge between the two and assembling the whole lot as a drop-in cartridge.
Thank you! Those are excellent points that hadn't occurred to me.
Thank you for your videos, please keep them coming, and have a good one,
Thank you!
I found a camera. Excellent! Unique! He came to my collection.
Nice!
:)
I did a review of this camera a few months ago and it now works fine. Recently, there was a video on the Chris Sherlock channel about servicing this model, which I also subscribe to because I am learning to repair cameras from my collection.
Very enlightening, numerous explanations on features that the original Owners Manual never explains (might be the worst written document I've ever read, all marketing BS with scant useful details - I hope the Zeiss engineers were much better than their Support and Marketing people!). Particularly helpful that the manual didn't address is what direction to turn the locking keys on the bottom to open the film compartment.
I also appreciated a proper and better expiation of the timer switch, but maybe this should include a word of caution - I've been warned by others to avoid using a delayed timer on older cameras. It's said this is often a weak point in their design and the part most prone to failure, which could lock up the works, thus requiring a difficult and expensive fix. And as David alluded to, it's almost impossible to find anyone to work on these complicated cameras, not to mention the cost, so I'm not gonna tempt curiosity or fate here. Thanks so much David!
Thank you!
I guess you won't read this but...I just find this camera in my grandpa bassemet's and even whit you wonderfull video and can see anything through the viewfinder...how can I open it ?
Try footing the shutter at different speeds. Sometimes old camera mirrors get stuck at slow speeds. If that doesn't work it probably needs a professional repair as there may be some thick lubricating grease in the mechanism.
@@DavidHancock Thank you a lot ^-^
My grandma has a Contaflex 1 that seems to work well, except the frame counter doesn't work properly. Are there any common issues with the frame counters on these cameras?
I'm not sure if it's known or common, but at least it shouldn't affect the camera in a serious way.
I found that there were 3 versions of "Contaflex I" and the serial number in front is the clue to tell apart wich is wich and goes like this : xxxxxx (six digit) is "Contaflex Ia" shutter speed is non standard 500, 250, 100, 50, etc and neck strap lugs are on the 45 degree corners. "Contaflex Ib" serial 1xxxxxx to 153xxxx is like the first version but the shutter speed standard to 500, 250, 125, 60, etc. "Contaflex Ic" serial number starting from163XXXX and above is like the previous version but the neck strap lugs on the sides of the camera like the one showed in this video.
Nice! Thank you!
I'm having a bit of trouble with mine, the shutter button with the little lever press down but it doesn't seem like it's taking anything, even with no film. The lever turns smoothly and just goes back to its original position, But when I go to press the button nothing happens.
If you set the shutter at different speeds and look through the camera, back open, no film, while pointing the camera at a room light (not the sun), can you see light flash in the shutter when you fire it?
I love the video thank you so much for it I just picked one up and I’m extremely excited to shoot with that I use besides lenses for cinema use for this will be my first time using them for still photography
Thank you!
Great video! Hope I can revive mine. My grandpa gave it to me
Nice! That's an awesome gift.
thanks for review. very useful. I've one in Ebay and like to buy. but I'm not sure about mirror shaking during pushing shutter release button.
I like to aks when shutter release is triggered, is ther time different between focal plane shutter and leaf shutter? if there is a time different how much it that?
if not, how big is mirror shake?
thanks David.
Thank you.
Mirror shake isn't so much of an issue with this camera because of the leaf shutter and because of the camera's weight. It takes a lot of force to move a heavy camera and the mirror simply doesn't have that.
looks like it could be a good companion to my Contax ii
Definitely.
Awesome vid!
Thank you!
Great video as usual ! Thank you :)
Thank you, Samar!
My father was given a Contaflex shortly before I was born by his mother for the purpose of recording my parents first born child, myself...
Years ago this camera quit working, both the shutter and aperture. I needed a fully manual film camera for a photography class I’d planed on taking, had my mother ship me the camera thinking I could get it repaired at the local camera shop. This is one of he most complex cameras made, thus nobody knows how to repair it, I did find a gentleman in California well versed in the Contaflex so I shipped it off to him for repair. He did an excellent job thus I have my dads vintage camera along with all of the original papers, bill of sale, a letter from the manufacturer, even the box...
www.zeisscamera.com/first.shtml
Thank you! Yeah, these are super complex. Zeiss and Rollei cameras of the era were exceedingly complex to help prevent Japanese and Chinese camera makers from copying the engineering. The Germans couldn't stop the Asian clone cameras with trademark and intellectual property rights, so they just designed them with such complexity that they couldn't be copied.
is there a way to fix shutter blades which are stuck? there is a place i know that could probably fix it, but they said it isn't worth it as they charge 120 euros (about 130 usd per hour - and that of course doesn't include any spare parts or whatever else is needed to get it fixed)
That price sounds about right. These are insanely complex cameras and repairing them takes a long time. I'm surprised they only quoted you an hour. I know a couple people in the U.S. who have repaired these and it's usually a half-to-full-day ordeal. I believe there is a guy in New York who repairs them, though I'm blanking on his name.
A good place to check for recommendations in the EU would be either the MFLenses (manual focus lenses) forum or Photo.net. APUG's forum might also have good recommendations.
Thanks for the quick reply! Well, they just said that is how much they charge per hour, they never said how long it would take. Like I said before, they were just trying to tell me that it isn't worth it.
Apparently one way to fix that problem is to use lighter fluid to clean the shutter blades, as this problem is caused by old grease or something like that, and that the lighter fluid would dissolve that or free it up somehow. This seems to be the only DIY fix I have heard of for this problem. And of course it is very risky.
If I can't fix it, I might just buy another one as it really seems like a solid camera and I have only heard good things about it. What is the absolute maximum I should spend on one of these?
The lighter fluid trick works if it is in fact grease. If it's a shot or weak spring, corrosion, or a mis-aligned gear, it won't work.
The lighter fluid trick also is not always a permanent fix. The method of action behind it is that the lighter fluid is a thinner, more volatile (evaporates quickly) petroleum compound compared to the heavier petroleum-based grease. So the lighter fluid thins and dissolves the grease. Actuating the shutter flings the thinned grease to the insides of the shutter away from the mechanisms. Then the lighter fluid evaporates leaving the thicker grease in places where ti can't do any harm. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. If you remove the lens elements, there's really no risk. If you can't and you get lighter fluid on the lens, it's not the end of the world as the residue can be cleaned easily with 91% rubbing alcohol or standard lens cleaning fluid.
If the thinned grease does not get fully removed, then when the lighter fluid evaporates the problem will return. I've done this before and sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
Alright, I will give it a try this weekend! I am assuming that the problem is grease related as this camera hasn't been used in at least 15 years.
Will the shutter blades "open up" right after I apply the lighter fluid or will it take a few minutes before something happens? Also how do I remove the lens elements?
How they respond is different for every camera. Some will work quickly, others will take a little time. It depends on whether or not grease is the only (or primary) culprit and how bad the issue is.
The leaf shutter on my camera is half open and I don’t know if I broke it. Can someone please advise me of this issue.
There are some good online forums for camera repairs. Photrio also has a sub-forum on the subject, I believe. Those will be helpful resources.
@@DavidHancock thank you!
Just got back my first developed roll with this camera, but turns out it was all blank. Do you know why? Any suggestions?
When you look at the film, was the leader (the very front) dark black? Also, can you read any numbers in the perforations?
If yes to those questions, then with no film in the camera look through it and point it at a light with the camera's back open. Then test the shutter at different speeds. Can you see light through it?
Let me know and I can probably tell you what happened.
@@DavidHancock yes, the leader is dark... and also when i did the test without the cap i could see the light coming through....
@@ConstaMClose Most likely, the film wasn't attached to the take-up spool correctly and the film didn't advance through the camera.
Hey man! Thumbs up and subscribed.
Great video. Thanks a lot, found this camera for only 40€ at paris so I bought it without even knowing about analog photography. Your video helped a lot.
What is that attachment? Can I find it?
Thank you and nice find!
Which attachment are you asking about? The lens hood on the front of the lens?
David Hancock Yes! That one
Yes! That one
They're available from time to time on eBay. They just push-on. You could also use a thread-on hood.
Thanks for the reply! I'll be sure to check it out :)
bought one that has film in it. was hoping for a demonstration of how to safely unload the film
The only way to do that is to do exactly what I do, but don't open the film door until the film is rewound. The process for rewinding and removing the film is identical, but this video shows what's happening inside the camera.
@@DavidHancock i didnt see the part about the actual rewinding. tinestamp?
@@edwardbedrosian2272 The video description has an index with time stamps. You'll want to check the one labeled "Loading and Unloading Film."
@@DavidHancock okay at your behest i watched it yet again, and again im telling you that you did not cover how to rewind.
@@edwardbedrosian2272 Well that's curious. Usually I do.
Hey , so I found this beauty but I dont really know if its working , how can I know if it is working?
What is it doing or not doing differently from what's demonstrated in this video?
@@DavidHancock I mean it does the same with or without film , I'm not really sure what else to say or how to explain it
I didn't understand how to unload the film, can you explain it please?
Do you mean how to remove the cassette from the camera after the film is rewound?
@@DavidHancock how to remove the film after I used it. once, unaware, I took the film out in the sunlight and when I took it to develop there was no photo. then I found out that I have to do it in the dark. yesterday I took it off and I hope the photos are there.
@@denisagal5732 Basically, just be sure to fully rewind the film into the cassette when you've finished a roll. Then open the camera back and remove the film. That will prevent the film from being erased by exposure to light.
I have a a Contafles IV, the problem is, that the viewfinder stays black. Don't know if this can be fixed for realtively low cost.....or i might give it a shot myself. Not too good
That sounds like a timing issue or a buildup of sticky lubricant. These are VERY hard camera to work on and I would not recommend trying it yourself unless you're extremely comfortable with complex mechanical repairs. There are people who repair these in the U.S. and Europe, but the repairs aren't cheap.
Thaks for the answer. I gonna see and take it with me to a shop tomorrow, and ask them what it might cost. Lets hope its not that expensive. :/ Really would love to try this camera out!
Hey, got good news. Fiddled around with the camera and cocked and released it over and over again, and the mirror got unstuck! Super cool, iam so looking forward to make some photographs with it! Lets hope the light-meter is still accurate, but I think so! :D
Fantastic! These are lots of fun to shoot with and it's great to have a working one.
But the Focussing ring is so stiff, its like a real workout to focus xD. Nothing for fast shots, but probably great for landscapes! Got a Tripod of similar age...."made in west germany"...but its heavy as fuck. I have been thinking about getting myself a proper Tripod. Any suggestions? Iam gonna be visiting Iceland in September this year, and I really want to take nice landscape photos with my nex-7, so I gonna need a proper tripod that does not weight a ton. ^^
do you know if I can use any type of film for ikon contaflex model 1, like can I use kodak, fuji film or whatever?? And how does it work because it has no battery? And how much is this camera worth?
Any 35mm film will work. Everything is mechanical so the film advance process arms all the springs. As for value, a camera is as valuable as the photos you can take with it.
Unfortunately most of these lovely cameras will have problems with the prism and or mirror, mostly in the form of the silvering plating coming away from the mirror or prism and making the view through the viewfinder rather "grungy". But they will still be useable. The shutters are very complicated and if they are not working properly, walk away for even if you can find someone to fix it, it will be very expensive to repair. I have had four in the past few years, not paid much money for them, but everyone has had problems, either with optical " corrosion", stuck or sticking shutter, or most common, fungus on the lens which etches into the glass and makes it useless.
Good point about the repair cost for sure. The prisms are replaceable but it's worth asking if the price is justified.
do you know how to rewind film to unload it?
That should be in this video. The description has a time-linked index and loading and unloading film should be one of those items.
I'm pretty new to analogue cameras. Anyone knows some good beginner tutorials?
For this camera specifically or for film photography in general?
@@DavidHancock I mean a bit of both I guess. I know next to nothing about what kind of film to use and I don't know anything about iso or shutter speed. My model also has a light meter but the numbers on it don't mean anything to me. A point in the right direction would really be very much appreciated
I would just like to add a correction. You indicated that interchangeable lens 35mm SLRs weren't in vogue when the Contaflex camera came out in the early 1950. That statement may have been correct for a leaf shutter SLR, but it wasn't true for 35mm SLRs in general. The first 35mm interchangeable lens SLR was the Exakta that revolutionized 35mm photography in 1936. It had fully interchangeable lenses. After World War II, other SLRs followed including the Rectaflex and the slightly later Contax S. They also had a pentaprism, which really made the 35mm SLR into a truly professional camera. In 1950, the Exakta Varex, one upped these cameras by having an interchangeable finder system, either a waist level finder or a pentaprism. The Contaflex I and II were wonderful cameras. I have one, but they were aimed at the advanced amateur.
Fair point, though I think my remark was more due to the relative scarcity and high price of SLRs and that viewfinder and rangefinder cameras still dominated the 35mm market at the time.
There is one sitting in my local thirft shop collecting dust for $70 bucks.
That's a bit spendy for these. I think they run in the $35-50 range, typically. I could be wrong, though, as camera prices have gone up a LOT in the last year or so.
Yeah, it has really been crazy living just outside of San Francisco, prices have been jumping up incredibly.
I know. I live in East Bay and camera prices in the Martinez antique stores, for instance, have become unaffordable.
The thing with any camera is condition. I spent $75 for my first one but it was in like new condition. It was immaculate and is one of my favorites. I have 2 others that I spend about $30 but they both seem to be suffering from corrosion on the mirror. Both of those are still serviceable too but it is a bit distracting when trying to focus through the viewfinder.
? Lenses are interchangeable on mine.
Do you have a different camera model?
@@DavidHancock It's a Zeiss Ikon Contaflex. IDK. I'm trying to figure out of both shutters are working. I've already gotten the lens out (it sucked).
Hi, i want sell my camera contaflex
eBay is the place to go.
just buy one here in mexico, in box, only 1000 pesos, like 50 dollars
it is my first film camera, actually looking for a low budget pentax or canon, but the oldman selling them was an asshole, a lady came with these camera looking to sell it, (camera belonged to his father) but the oldman only offered her like 5dllrs, so i jump and pay the lady the money she was looking for.
not knowing what a pice of history i just buy.
SORRY FOR BAD ENGLISH
Nice find! $50 is definitely fair to help keep someone from getting ripped off by a mean store owner.
Not a good idea to keep/store any camera in its leather case!
Good point and thank you.
How do you recommend storing it ?
@@kareemsakr41 I keep my cameras in a sealed case with rechargable desiccant packs to prevent mold.
Funny or pathetic?
I'm going with funny.