If possible the hoses should always be ran upwards to start with. Running them upwards forces the blowby oil to fight gravity and you don't lose much oil. Also I would run it to a catch can and not near my tire. Still a great video thanks
By the time the oil mist reaches the brass fittings it's already left the engine. I don't think it matters how the fittings are oriented at that point, the mist is going to blow out either way. Gravity isn't a factor. It's not a flow of oil, just mist.
@@bluesriderDF if I'm ever able to finish my bike this time around I'm going to use a catch can. I'm running the big sucker 2 now with the synthetic filter inside the stainless wire mess. I like It, it pulls in a lot of air The synthetic filter is water resistant almost water proof. It surprised me I've been caught in some heavy rains I thought were monsoons lol. They're easy to clean and you don't have to oil them afterwards. I won't be able to run it this next time around and the Ness filter system will have to go.
Very well done video. You answered my question regarding how to vent with this Arlen Ness setup. I plan to do the same but add a catch can to end of vent line.
Note correction below, the fittings are 1/8" NPT (Threaded) by 1/8" hose nipple (Barbed), available on Amazon for around a buck a piece, in packs of 6. Can also be found in some hardware stores. Go ahead, run the hose down to a "Catch Can" of your choice, no need in dripping oil everywhere.
@@bluesriderDF The correction stamp at 2:51 says 1/8" and 1/8", whatever, I went with 1/8" NPT and Barb, I didn't feel the need for such a large hole, after all look how small the vent hole is that goes thru the A/N Big Sucker intake and bolt, it's tiny.
@Thang Knowa My bad, I was looking at the part from a different job. This bike had the 1/8" you used on it from the previous owner and it seemed to work ok.
The bolts that you replace the factory bolts with are hollow, instead of oil vapors going in the throttle body, it goes to the catch can. Several videos explain this.@@jasonwinkeljohn2434
Nice. Keep the cutter lubricated with some WD-40. Don't cut too much, I usually do 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time. As long as the hole size you drilled is correct it should go smoothly, just let the tool do the cutting.
did a similar trick to my 16 road king but end of tube goes into a breather can , the engine should burn fuel only NOT oil, epa garbage, oil will create carbon buildup on valves, pistons, etc. not good, a clean motor is a happy motor
Ok I've gotta do an update here... I do not recommend filling the 2 holes with gasket cement.! I did it and that shit got hot and melted out of the left side hole lol went on a long ride and my bike started popping badly on decel and even stalled out on me while turning onto another street...! While this seems like a great way to stop those holes up... It's actually not so don't do it... With that being said I am now on here doing research on what to safely use to stop them up
@@bluesriderDF I used the high temp black ATV gasket cement... JB Weld might be best with these holes but I wouldn't be too sure about that since the inside of those holes can have oil in them therefore not letting the JB Weld stay bonded to the walls of the holes.? I'm researching as I type this reply...
@@bluesriderDF right on... Yeah I think grub screws would be the way to go here... Hum.? Would you happen to know the correct size of these grub screws.?
Thank you for the video. I have owned my '04 Sportster since new and have lived with the oil breathing into the Big Sucker 1. Well, the other day I got a rather large oil burp, which occasionally happens and it was all over my right leg and oil bag cover, etc. So I decided I am sick of this arrangement and decided to look up a solution. Lots of catch cans out there and I must admit, your solution of routing oily gases right in front of the rear tire scare me a bit. So my question is how has it worked for you? Have you changed this setup since you posted the video? Sold the bike? What happened? I would love to know... I am going to copy your solution, but I am thinking of adding a catch can and being mindful of having to empty it now and again. As it is right now my air cleaner is my catch can and I do not like it. Thanks again for the info! Very useful.
My solution was actually just to the side of the tire.. It was such a tiny amount that came out I'm out. I literally never saw a drop in my garage, for example. I sold the bike when I found a Low Rider, my dream bike. I did a breather mod on it, but this time I used a small external breather filter.
Correct me if I'm wrong but all this does is simply make your pistons that you can't see look a little bit more clean and does very little to nothing for performance?
You are correct that this does nothing for performance, that's the job of the aftermarket intake. The purpose of this isn't just to make things look cleaner, some feel very strongly that carbon buildup will lead to problems. I replaced this bike 2 years ago and my new bike does not have this mod.
It's not about adding performance to your bike. It's a way to maintain the performance you have. You won't end up having all the crud build up on your pistons and valves.
Y can't u run the breather oil lines to oil tank still flows n I've got oil filt so no contamination should happen makes since to me?? N thats what I'm doing stad of running to ground or on motor???.?
The amount of oil that comes out of the breathers is very very small, a couple drops. Assuming you don't in fill your oil to the max. I no longer have this bike, the one I have now does not have the oil breather bypass. I'm really not too concerned about it.
I don't believe I used anything. The breather is just a low pressure oil line, it never leaked. I suppose you could use some Teflon thread sealant, people use that on oil drain plugs sometimes. But I don't think you need anything there.
Great info and video. I have the stage 2, they are big but they do supply enough air for up to at least 150hp. I wanted to ask about the cracks around the bolt holes. Is there a way to prevent that? Because now I worry about a piece breaking off and getting sucked through my carb into the engine. I've see mounting screws that have done that. That will destroy valves and or pistons. Thanks
Thanks for the ideas. And I already got the tools.I know I can do this job now! My only question is, is it cheaper to get the parts myself or order a set like at DK customs?
BluesriderDF They got these tiny filters available that arent too expensive. Instead of running a hose down away from things, i plan on just attaching one of those filter right on the T barb. If it makes enough mess, then i’ll have to do it your way.
My understanding is that the Big Sucker is overkill for Stage 1. If you're going for Stage 2-4 then the larger intake is useful. I can't compare it to the Screamin Eagle high flow, but I can't imagine there would be a dramatic difference. Both move a whole lot of air.
@@bluesriderDF I have one on my sportster buy your right it's overkill for most bikes. My bike makes about 80hp and it's still overkill. They say it flows 20% more than their regular big sucker. It supposed provide enough air to support at least 150hp
that's a good idea and everything but I just don't know if I like the whole idea of oil dripping all over my floor just doesn't look right I just don't know why you didn't run up to the carburetor let the motor burn it away
First, it's a fuel injected bike. The factory config sends the oil into the airbox and sucks it back in to be burned, like you said. People have posted pictures online showing the difference between cylinders with and without the oil bypass, and the difference is stunning. Clean cylinder, versus black cylinder with carbon buildup. Oh, there's never any oil drip in my garage. It happens when riding, and is pretty minimal as long as the engine oil level isn't too high.
@per4mexbagger541 I had to go back and rewatch the video, didn't remember from 5 years ago. Yes, I did go with the smaller 1/8" tubing, but I don't remember where I got those fittings.
@@jayscorner5387 It's been 2-1/2 years so I don't remember exactly. I probably just used what I had on hand. The different color sealants have different properties for temperature and whether they will contact oil, gas etc. You can probably use any of them to fill in the backing plate.
BluesriderDF thank you for the reply, I used Black Silicon, seems to be holding up, from the smell on my clothes I can definitely tell it's venting well.
I just finished doing this to my 2015 Dyna Wide Glide. I saw your video about a week ago and decided to go for it! Thank you very much for the idea.
Oh cool!! Now if spring would come!! It's snowing now. 😡
@@bluesriderDF 52 degrees here in North Mississippi. I still get to sneek a ride in, now and then with our weather.
If possible the hoses should always be ran upwards to start with. Running them upwards forces the blowby oil to fight gravity and you don't lose much oil. Also I would run it to a catch can and not near my tire.
Still a great video thanks
By the time the oil mist reaches the brass fittings it's already left the engine. I don't think it matters how the fittings are oriented at that point, the mist is going to blow out either way. Gravity isn't a factor. It's not a flow of oil, just mist.
@@bluesriderDF if I'm ever able to finish my bike this time around I'm going to use a catch can. I'm running the big sucker 2 now with the synthetic filter inside the stainless wire mess. I like It, it pulls in a lot of air The synthetic filter is water resistant almost water proof. It surprised me I've been caught in some heavy rains I thought were monsoons lol. They're easy to clean and you don't have to oil them afterwards. I won't be able to run it this next time around and the Ness filter system will have to go.
@@LH-kz2nf I had a synthetic filter on a previous bike, I liked it as well.
Very well done video. You answered my question regarding how to vent with this Arlen Ness setup. I plan to do the same but add a catch can to end of vent line.
Thanks! I'm really happy with it. Now if it would stop snowing and warm up!
Thanks so much for the DIY info! I need to do this from my 110 Twin Cam.
Note correction below, the fittings are 1/8" NPT (Threaded) by 1/8" hose nipple (Barbed), available on Amazon for around a buck a piece, in packs of 6. Can also be found in some hardware stores. Go ahead, run the hose down to a "Catch Can" of your choice, no need in dripping oil everywhere.
@@bluesriderDF The correction stamp at 2:51 says 1/8" and 1/8", whatever, I went with 1/8" NPT and Barb, I didn't feel the need for such a large hole, after all look how small the vent hole is that goes thru the A/N Big Sucker intake and bolt, it's tiny.
@Thang Knowa My bad, I was looking at the part from a different job. This bike had the 1/8" you used on it from the previous owner and it seemed to work ok.
How do you get blow by/oil from mounting holes/bolt?
The bolts that you replace the factory bolts with are hollow, instead of oil vapors going in the throttle body, it goes to the catch can. Several videos explain this.@@jasonwinkeljohn2434
I’m doing this today. Really appreciate the video.
Nice!
thanx. This has been a little frustrating to research. This video helped. Now, to see about learning to tap and die...
Nice. Keep the cutter lubricated with some WD-40. Don't cut too much, I usually do 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time. As long as the hole size you drilled is correct it should go smoothly, just let the tool do the cutting.
Thank you from Sweden
did a similar trick to my 16 road king but end of tube goes into a breather can , the engine should burn fuel only NOT oil, epa garbage, oil will create carbon buildup on valves, pistons, etc. not good, a clean motor is a happy motor
I did this today and works great 👍
I think you will be very happy with that mod.
Beautiful engine
Yes, for sure!
Ok I've gotta do an update here... I do not recommend filling the 2 holes with gasket cement.! I did it and that shit got hot and melted out of the left side hole lol went on a long ride and my bike started popping badly on decel and even stalled out on me while turning onto another street...! While this seems like a great way to stop those holes up... It's actually not so don't do it... With that being said I am now on here doing research on what to safely use to stop them up
What specfically did you use? I used Black ATV on my Street Glide, but decided to change to JB Weld.
@@bluesriderDF I used the high temp black ATV gasket cement... JB Weld might be best with these holes but I wouldn't be too sure about that since the inside of those holes can have oil in them therefore not letting the JB Weld stay bonded to the walls of the holes.? I'm researching as I type this reply...
@@bonez6349 I sprayed them out with Brake Cleaner. Some people tap threads in them and screw in a grub screw with red loctite.
@@bluesriderDF right on... Yeah I think grub screws would be the way to go here... Hum.? Would you happen to know the correct size of these grub screws.?
@@bonez6349 I don't, sorry.
Looks good
I put a set of breather banjo bolts that have fittings on each one. Much less work and worth the $20. - Xena from the XL Forum.
Time for a catch can and the drops oil will disappear. Nice video!
Thanks!
Thank you for the video. I have owned my '04 Sportster since new and have lived with the oil breathing into the Big Sucker 1. Well, the other day I got a rather large oil burp, which occasionally happens and it was all over my right leg and oil bag cover, etc. So I decided I am sick of this arrangement and decided to look up a solution. Lots of catch cans out there and I must admit, your solution of routing oily gases right in front of the rear tire scare me a bit. So my question is how has it worked for you? Have you changed this setup since you posted the video? Sold the bike? What happened? I would love to know... I am going to copy your solution, but I am thinking of adding a catch can and being mindful of having to empty it now and again. As it is right now my air cleaner is my catch can and I do not like it. Thanks again for the info! Very useful.
My solution was actually just to the side of the tire.. It was such a tiny amount that came out I'm out. I literally never saw a drop in my garage, for example. I sold the bike when I found a Low Rider, my dream bike. I did a breather mod on it, but this time I used a small external breather filter.
My Low Rider mod:
ua-cam.com/video/vxhYFs1eyuo/v-deo.html
Correct me if I'm wrong but all this does is simply make your pistons that you can't see look a little bit more clean and does very little to nothing for performance?
You are correct that this does nothing for performance, that's the job of the aftermarket intake. The purpose of this isn't just to make things look cleaner, some feel very strongly that carbon buildup will lead to problems. I replaced this bike 2 years ago and my new bike does not have this mod.
With the external breather, on the dyno you might show 1or 2 more hp maybe some more torque and engine temp running slightly cooler
It's not about adding performance to your bike. It's a way to maintain the performance you have. You won't end up having all the crud build up on your pistons and valves.
Y can't u run the breather oil lines to oil tank still flows n I've got oil filt so no contamination should happen makes since to me?? N thats what I'm doing stad of running to ground or on motor???.?
The amount of oil that comes out of the breathers is very very small, a couple drops. Assuming you don't in fill your oil to the max. I no longer have this bike, the one I have now does not have the oil breather bypass. I'm really not too concerned about it.
What did u use to seal the threads on the hose barb
I don't believe I used anything. The breather is just a low pressure oil line, it never leaked. I suppose you could use some Teflon thread sealant, people use that on oil drain plugs sometimes. But I don't think you need anything there.
@@bluesriderDF so when u used the tap u didn't run the tap all the way just enough to run flush with the air cleaner housing
@@jonsixxx6569 Correct
do you remember what size tap you used? the NTP fitting i have is 1/2 inch 18 tpi. i can't find a tap for that anywhere.
1/8" NPT pipe tap, it's in a set I got from Harbor Freight
NPT stands for national pipe thread. It's a standard pipe thread. Can find it at any hardware store
Great info and video. I have the stage 2, they are big but they do supply enough air for up to at least 150hp.
I wanted to ask about the cracks around the bolt holes. Is there a way to prevent that? Because now I worry about a piece breaking off and getting sucked through my carb into the engine. I've see mounting screws that have done that. That will destroy valves and or pistons. Thanks
Only concern I'd have with is oil spraying onto the rear tire.
Otherwise looks good
Maybe a drop of oil every couple minutes. The drain line is not in line with the tire anyway.
@@bluesriderDF thats a good thing.
Looks good Buddy!!👍👍
Good install. Looking good. It still sounds the same?
Thanks! Late reply, I wasn't getting YT messages. Yes, sounds the same, same MPG too, but looks so much better. Less maintenance too.
Thanks for the ideas. And I already got the tools.I know I can do this job now!
My only question is, is it cheaper to get the parts myself or order a set like at DK customs?
Soul Assassin I got the hose barbs and the tubing app local hardware stores, pretty cheap.
BluesriderDF
They got these tiny filters available that arent too expensive. Instead of running a hose down away from things, i plan on just attaching one of those filter right on the T barb. If it makes enough mess, then i’ll have to do it your way.
BluesriderDF
thanks for the idea though this is great !
I'm not sure this is necessary, I clean my filter every oil change ...
It was very cheap with a trip to lowes.
This post is 4 years old. Did you have any issue with the gasket sealer filling those holes?
Nope. Gasket sealer is used in engines. The black stuff holds up to any heat that the intake gets, it's not going anywhere.
@@bluesriderDF thanks for the info. Both my evos have this breather set up and I'm going to do close to what you did here.
Is the arlen ness big sucker kit any better than the screaming eagle high flow kit ??,
My understanding is that the Big Sucker is overkill for Stage 1. If you're going for Stage 2-4 then the larger intake is useful. I can't compare it to the Screamin Eagle high flow, but I can't imagine there would be a dramatic difference. Both move a whole lot of air.
@@bluesriderDF hey thank you so much for the info !!! I
@@bluesriderDF I have one on my sportster buy your right it's overkill for most bikes. My bike makes about 80hp and it's still overkill. They say it flows 20% more than their regular big sucker.
It supposed provide enough air to support at least 150hp
@@LH-kz2nf I just like how they look & sound. 😄
that's a good idea and everything but I just don't know if I like the whole idea of oil dripping all over my floor just doesn't look right I just don't know why you didn't run up to the carburetor let the motor burn it away
First, it's a fuel injected bike. The factory config sends the oil into the airbox and sucks it back in to be burned, like you said. People have posted pictures online showing the difference between cylinders with and without the oil bypass, and the difference is stunning. Clean cylinder, versus black cylinder with carbon buildup. Oh, there's never any oil drip in my garage. It happens when riding, and is pretty minimal as long as the engine oil level isn't too high.
Could you provide a link to these fittings please.?
Here ya go. Use them with 1/4" ID fuel line.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0753BB8YP?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
@@bluesriderDF thanks for the links I wanted to know for sure what to get lol
@@bluesriderDFdidn’t you state that you ended up going 1/8 inch barbs and tubing
@per4mexbagger541 I had to go back and rewatch the video, didn't remember from 5 years ago. Yes, I did go with the smaller 1/8" tubing, but I don't remember where I got those fittings.
Did u close off the holes on the plate wouldnt air still go thru the banjo bolts im about to do the same thing for my bike
Yes, I think I used blue or copper gasket sealant.
BluesriderDF So you use black on the actual manifold, then copper on the screws them selves? Could you have used copper on both?
@@jayscorner5387 It's been 2-1/2 years so I don't remember exactly. I probably just used what I had on hand. The different color sealants have different properties for temperature and whether they will contact oil, gas etc. You can probably use any of them to fill in the backing plate.
BluesriderDF thank you for the reply, I used Black Silicon, seems to be holding up, from the smell on my clothes I can definitely tell it's venting well.
@@jayscorner5387 Good job!
what bike is that? a softail? ....a Dyna? please?
MrViolero - This was a 2007 Sportster XL1200 Custom. My first bike! I just traded up to a Dyna Low Rider.