Your conventional milling in one direction and climb milling the other direction of feed. That will have an influence on vibration and surface appearance of your cut.
I have the same mill, pretty nice imo. I would suggest a machinist jack, 123 block or similar under the far end of your tube, and then clamp over the far end to tighten onto the jack. ( wide face on that support) I think that will help eliminate your vibration. Then while you are at it, maybe a stop at the far end so you can turn your work without indexing over and over.
Support the other end of the tubing so you don’t get that resonance. Also like someone else previously said, use the tool at the shortest cutting surface so it’s as rigid as possible. And make sure you’re using a four flute (or more) end mill.
A couple of points that may help you following the video the first pass you made was a climb cut any time your feeding the cutter in the direction your piece is moving is a climb cut,the cutter is "climbing" across the piece when the cutter rotation is rotating against the direction of the movement of the part it is called conventional cutting next your feed is not as precise as you think it is as long as to are withing 20 either direction your good if your target is 509 you will be fine from 489 to 529 as was mentioned by others get some support on the far end it will make your work piece more rigid and accurate because you will remove the possibility of a tilt next lower your cutter the closer you are to the quill body the more solid your cutter will run, out on the end of the cutter may have a slight wobble from centrifugal force it may be a much as couple of ten thousands or even several hundred thousands, buy yourself a simple spray bottle and fill it with your desired coolant give it a squirt a couple time through the pass it will help your cutter live longer and give you a slightly better surface finish
12" cutoff wheen and boom! Your done. Nice and square.
Your conventional milling in one direction and climb milling the other direction of feed. That will have an influence on vibration and surface appearance of your cut.
I have the same mill, pretty nice imo. I would suggest a machinist jack, 123 block or similar under the far end of your tube, and then clamp over the far end to tighten onto the jack. ( wide face on that support) I think that will help eliminate your vibration. Then while you are at it, maybe a stop at the far end so you can turn your work without indexing over and over.
Great tips! Much appreciated.
Support the other end of the tubing so you don’t get that resonance. Also like someone else previously said, use the tool at the shortest cutting surface so it’s as rigid as possible. And make sure you’re using a four flute (or more) end mill.
shorten you tool so its not sticking out so much
Thanks, I will.
A couple of points that may help you following the video the first pass you made was a climb cut any time your feeding the cutter in the direction your piece is moving is a climb cut,the cutter is "climbing" across the piece when the cutter rotation is rotating against the direction of the movement of the part it is called conventional cutting next your feed is not as precise as you think it is as long as to are withing 20 either direction your good if your target is 509 you will be fine from 489 to 529 as was mentioned by others get some support on the far end it will make your work piece more rigid and accurate because you will remove the possibility of a tilt next lower your cutter the closer you are to the quill body the more solid your cutter will run, out on the end of the cutter may have a slight wobble from centrifugal force it may be a much as couple of ten thousands or even several hundred thousands, buy yourself a simple spray bottle and fill it with your desired coolant give it a squirt a couple time through the pass it will help your cutter live longer and give you a slightly better surface finish
So, the PM-25 is for light cuts in steel only?
I limit myself to .025” or less.
try conventional milling instead of climb milling
100%
Wow, I feel that my 5” grinder and square would do the trick. And quickly too
Haha yes, but the point is to learn the mill. Making something useful is just a nice byproduct.
were you ever able to stop all that vibration and chatter?
No, I completed that project with chatter all the way through. Next time I will secure the square tubing directly to the table.
i had to play this vid x10 just to get to the actual work, you make it sound like this square tubing is going into elon musk BFR .
And save yourself some money and just use WD40 instead of cutting fluid.
For mild steel, I have been using dark screw cutting fluid. It was $20 for a full gallon.
Rigidity is key when milling.