Thanks for posting. like to see normal people going through things. Then I read comments to see what one did wrong. Do you ever wonder why someone who is an expert/very competent watches these videos? I mean dont they have orher videos on stuff they haven't fone to watch themselves? 😅
thanks for the video. I tried to replace shocks in 2008 Santa Fe w/120k+ miles. The bolt and nut came off surprisingly easy. But the passenger side shock wouldn't come off. I used a hammer and crowbar for an hour. I finally brought it a mechanic. He used an compressor / impact chisel for 10 mins before it came lose. Unless you have the right tools, this DIY project may be destined for professional help.
I know this is a super old video but the jack stands are just holding the car correct? Not holding up the rear axle or anything right? I'm getting ready to this right now. Ur video is a huge help!! Thank you
Oh ok gotcha. One more thing, I replaced the two front struts 6 months ago but kept the stock shocks. 129,000 miles now. Every time I hit a bump I can feel it real hard. You think if I change my shocks, it will help dampen the blow? And what is the widest tire I think I can run on the rear. I want a wider look to the Santa Fe. Thx !!
so don't put the old boot on? I just finished doing this "chore" and it drives great but there is a noise which after watching this video makes me wonder if the new noise is the boot..
+LexBomb6464 Master It depends on the type of shock..this replacement had no need for the boot which keeps crap off the chrome piston rod..the Monroe had it built in
I'm having a problem with the bolt in the interior of the car, the stud is spinning while taking out the bolt. I don't have the air gun. Here in Florida there's not much snow so lower part was easy with some wd40. But interior part is driving me crazy.
Found in another video that you can use a tiny wrench to hold the stud but my problem is that the stud is eaten and the wrench can't hold it, now I'm looking how to cut the bolt.
@@fupabox thank you for the reply, yes I did that but still the metal kept eating even with the vicegrip. I used a bolt cutter, it took me some time but finally got it out. Thank you for the video.
I don't normally like to criticize people's videos but you are presenting this as a how to video and you don't know what you're doing. As someone already stated, those old bushings are so dry rotted that it shows up on camera. Always use new bushings. If in your 'expert opinion' the new ones are no good, then purchase others. You also should have cleaned up the smooth part of the bolt on the lower shock mount with a wire wheel, brush or even sand paper. A little silicon grease or anti-seize should have been applied also.. Not once but twice you tried to screw a nut on backwards and yes, using the wrong size socket "makes a difference sometimes". You didn't torque ANYTHING properly at all. The top retaining nut should not just be tightened "till the rubber mushrooms out a little". Admit it, you didn't know what you were doing but went ahead and made a video trying to tell people how to do it. It's great to try doing things for yourself and make mistakes along the way. Just don't make a video of it and post it on You Tube so that others watch it and think what you are doing is the right way. It isn't. Sorry if what I say sounds harsh but there's already way too many videos on You Tube showing people how to do things created by people who themselves don't know how to do it. Nothing personal. Have a great day.
For me the video works to see isn't that hard, btw I'm not against criticism but if you want to criticize better explain what you should do better that way I can apply your wisdom.
using 70 ft lbs was quoted in video pay attention- many air tool impact and cordless impact have torque settings- all hyundai's usually have torque parameters ((ranges)) i.e. 74-86 ft lbs.
you wouldn't say that if you saw the quality and mushiness of the new ones that were included.. they were nearly sponge rubber..they were not worth installing
still doesnt excuse the fact that you could have bought new bushings.. as a mechanic for 30 plus yrs , i would never tell anyone to reuse dry rotted bushings.. which fyi .. your vid clearly shows they were.. ever heard of rock auto .com.. a complete set of new bushings is less than 10 bucks.
and to the ppl who watched your vid.. the clunk you hear from the shocks is usually worn bushing, resulting in metal to metal contact. new shocks won't prevent this.
Very helpful. Finally replacing original shocks on a 2002 Santa Fe 21 years later. Thanks to this video much easier than expected. Thanks for posting.
Great vedio mo ole 04 Santa Fe is still running just put new shocks on rear after watching your vedio thanks very much .303.000 still running fine.
Thanks for posting. like to see normal people going through things. Then I read comments to see what one did wrong.
Do you ever wonder why someone who is an expert/very competent watches these videos? I mean dont they have orher videos on stuff they haven't fone to watch themselves? 😅
thanks for the video. I tried to replace shocks in 2008 Santa Fe w/120k+ miles. The bolt and nut came off surprisingly easy. But the passenger side shock wouldn't come off. I used a hammer and crowbar for an hour. I finally brought it a mechanic. He used an compressor / impact chisel for 10 mins before it came lose. Unless you have the right tools, this DIY project may be destined for professional help.
Paul R stfu
Just because you need tools to do any kind of work, doesnt make you a professional lol
Thanks for helping me do my dad's shocks! 💪😎👍
love this, you’re about to save me over $400 on this
Well done. Great video! nice to see in real time. I would consider leaving the new bushings on since I believe they can fail also.
Awesome Video! Love that you include socket sizes
Nice Perfectly executed Thanks for the Info-Vid it Helps Big time.
Enjoy
👍 A little rubber grease to prevent squeaking would help too.
Thanks for posting
I know this is a super old video but the jack stands are just holding the car correct? Not holding up the rear axle or anything right? I'm getting ready to this right now. Ur video is a huge help!! Thank you
Fantastic job. Did exactly what you posted. Thanks
rancor1067 very welcome
thanks for video my shocks are not shot but I'm planning to haul trailers and I think they where never replaced
Great Video. Very informative. Helped a lot.
What are the torque specs?
leave the shock compressed till u have the bottom in
i think i will leave the blue rubber band on until the bottom is in
good idea :)
Is it weird that I have the same rust spot where u have yours on the passenger rear well
no.. most santa fe's of that vintage seem to rust there :(
Oh ok gotcha. One more thing, I replaced the two front struts 6 months ago but kept the stock shocks. 129,000 miles now. Every time I hit a bump I can feel it real hard. You think if I change my shocks, it will help dampen the blow? And what is the widest tire I think I can run on the rear. I want a wider look to the Santa Fe. Thx !!
My right rear shock was seized on as well. Had to remove stud from knuckle with shock attached and buy new one from dealership
Ouch ..dead reliable cars , but the older Santa Fes did have some nasty corrosion issues
You have a part number for that? I'm going through the same problem
@@MrLboogs89 the Hyundai dealership knew just what it was...lowwler shock bolt
@@MrLboogs89 30 some bucks
Thank man
Where is the camshaft sensor on a 3.5 santefa
2004 hondia v6
Thank You!
so don't put the old boot on? I just finished doing this "chore" and it drives great but there is a noise which after watching this video makes me wonder if the new noise is the boot..
+LexBomb6464 Master It depends on the type of shock..this replacement had no need for the boot which keeps crap off the chrome piston rod..the Monroe had it built in
I'm having a problem with the bolt in the interior of the car, the stud is spinning while taking out the bolt. I don't have the air gun. Here in Florida there's not much snow so lower part was easy with some wd40. But interior part is driving me crazy.
Found in another video that you can use a tiny wrench to hold the stud but my problem is that the stud is eaten and the wrench can't hold it, now I'm looking how to cut the bolt.
sorry for the late reply . Grab the top stud with a pair of vicegrips while loosening the shock bolt
@@fupabox thank you for the reply, yes I did that but still the metal kept eating even with the vicegrip. I used a bolt cutter, it took me some time but finally got it out. Thank you for the video.
GREAT VIDEO THANKS
Does anyone know how the jack is setup to lift the rear?
The rear differential
I don't normally like to criticize people's videos but you are presenting this as a how to video and you don't know what you're doing. As someone already stated, those old bushings are so dry rotted that it shows up on camera. Always use new bushings. If in your 'expert opinion' the new ones are no good, then purchase others. You also should have cleaned up the smooth part of the bolt on the lower shock mount with a wire wheel, brush or even sand paper. A little silicon grease or anti-seize should have been applied also..
Not once but twice you tried to screw a nut on backwards and yes, using the wrong size socket "makes a difference sometimes".
You didn't torque ANYTHING properly at all. The top retaining nut should not just be tightened "till the rubber mushrooms out a little".
Admit it, you didn't know what you were doing but went ahead and made a video trying to tell people how to do it.
It's great to try doing things for yourself and make mistakes along the way. Just don't make a video of it and post it on You Tube so that others watch it and think what you are doing is the right way. It isn't.
Sorry if what I say sounds harsh but there's already way too many videos on You Tube showing people how to do things created by people who themselves don't know how to do it.
Nothing personal. Have a great day.
For me the video works to see isn't that hard, btw I'm not against criticism but if you want to criticize better explain what you should do better that way I can apply your wisdom.
using 70 ft lbs was quoted in video pay attention- many air tool impact and cordless impact have torque settings- all hyundai's usually have torque parameters ((ranges)) i.e. 74-86 ft lbs.
Great, thanks!
there's a reason new shocks come with new bushings . BECAUSE THE OLD ONES ARE WORN OUT. and no, the "old ones" are not better than new..smh
you wouldn't say that if you saw the quality and mushiness of the new ones that were included.. they were nearly sponge rubber..they were not worth installing
spongy bushings in a name brand new shock..i think not .. and reusing dry rotted bushings when you can buy new ones is ridiculous
OK great.. you didn't see or feel them, but somehow you know ..that's fine.. you do realize that brand name means absolutely nothing anymore
still doesnt excuse the fact that you could have bought new bushings.. as a mechanic for 30 plus yrs , i would never tell anyone to reuse dry rotted bushings.. which fyi .. your vid clearly shows they were.. ever heard of rock auto .com.. a complete set of new bushings is less than 10 bucks.
and to the ppl who watched your vid.. the clunk you hear from the shocks is usually worn bushing, resulting in metal to metal contact. new shocks won't prevent this.
Hack
Fantastic job. Did exactly what you posted. Thanks
Thank you!