Great “to the point” video. I’m digging these. Do you have in the works any expansion on how much better your isolator is over the upgraded Tilta soft isolator?
@@ImJasonAnthony I have the new Tilta Soft Isolator, but I think I might try take it apart to remove some of the rings, as my build is quite lightweight I feel that it is still too 'stiff' for a soft isolator... Any tips for reducing micro jitters?
Sweeet!! When you do, could you let me know the difference between that and the MOVMAX RAZAR? Cuz again, no one, not even movmax channel helps me see the difference besides the means of mounting.
Yo man I’ve had this set up for about two years and you’re so right on the limit of information available or people simply just call it crap and give up. I’ve got mine dialed in pretty bad ass now and have done speeds on interstate with zero issues. My main reason for this comment is this was the best tutorial / feedback on the arm I’ve seen put together and a lot of which I already encoperate on my current rig from trail and error. I’m shooting an all original GTR R34 v spec tomorrow and couldn’t be more pumped. I’ll be encompassing some of this for sure!! Subscribed 🤟
Hope the production went well, I legit made this video after being so frustrated with the little info that’s out there and outdated shit. After owning 2 (we front & rear mount 2 cams at the same time) we’ve been able to pick up on some tips and tricks! Still needs a lot of playing around and thinking about moving to the movmax N2. I just grabbed an MR2 Spyder so there will be more car content on here on how to shoot better automotive cinematography🤘🏻🤘🏻
very clear and interesting video. I also use the Sony FX3 and the 24-70 2.8GM. How heavy are the counterweights I see in your video? Can you tell me where I can find them?
This is one of the best tutorials (and THE BEST on the topic of Hydra) on UA-cam! Dropping real life and useful knowledge like a bomb! Thank You! Have a question about the controller! I’m using the one from tilta… and it’s not good. Are there any better solutions to control the RS2?
My man there are we actually bought a custom controller and it’s like the big movie pro one with the joy stick. DM me on IG @im_jasonanthony and I can send you links. It’s hands down 100000x better operating 1 big joystick in the camera car. We’ve tried all types of radios
Sheesh thanks for the tip bro! I was going to ask you about balancing the gimbal with a zoom lens. Also i definitely need to bump my strength up to try to fix my micro jitter. Great video brotha! Appreciate you for dropping the knowledge!
I prefer PTF so you can say tilt too! Some cool shots are from the road tilting up to the car revealing the vehicle or you can do the reverse like tilt down from the trees onto the car.
Is it better to record in 60 fps to slow down footage in post get rid of road vibrations as well using stabilizer or what do you usually film in when recording car rollers?
No we NEVER slow down rollers unless it’s for an intentional shot. Automotive cinematography we want the motion blur of the movement and speed in which the cars are moving. If we went to 60 we’d lose all that. Great question bro
@@chrisborger7016 Of course bro, When we film for Lamborghini, Toyota, Hyundai all our clients we're always 23.978FPS/24FPS unless we want to slow specific shots down.
@@ImJasonAnthony If you maintain 180deg shutter angle, wouldn't you achieve the same amount of motion blur? Also, I'm curious about that custom isolator. I didn't see another video on it, but I'm curious if you had a parts list and .stl files you'd be willing to share so others can build their own.
@@MoneyMunday I wish it was the case but that is incorrect at 60FPS and a 180* shutter, you are getting motion blur at 60FPS which looks VERY different being there’s more frames being captured if that makes sense. So you’re visually seeing 60 frames per second played back vs 24. With more frames per second captured you’re seeing less blur due to that exact reason, there’s more frames which result in less motion blur Working currently on a dedicated isolator video and hope to have it done soon.
Anybody got an issue with remote control handle always roatating the gimbal to the left? (imitating the joystick movement to the left)? Tryied recalibrating, tilta support is not helpful
They’re the worst man, we actually found a radio similar to the movi about a year ago with the big joystick and focus wheel that’s been 10000x better than a ps4/xbox or DJI control handle
This iMac was fully spec’d out when I grabbed it at the time. It’s the m2 version with 2tb internal ssd, and the highest GPU and ram options. Would have to check when I’m back at the editing bay!
@@chrisborger7016 yessir have a rear hitch plate and run triangular rails on the top of my 4 runner to secure the vertical rail to adjust the height of the Hydra arm!
Just curious cause get way more micro jitters from using that rather then the original suction cup mount just like using the speed rail set up seems more secure
@@ImJasonAnthony is it better to have your vertical pole closer to the truck because it’s almost like the movement of the trucks suspension gets exaggerated the farther extended out you are. I bought mine from cine milled. In there tutorial video it says the further you are from vehicle is best so that you can pan farther left and right without getting back of truck in your shot. But like said earlier with the actual suction cup mounting system that goes right onto back vehicle I get minimal jitter. Maybe I answered my own question still have keep trying new things but lots people say the rs3 pro is poor gimbal for vehicle moving shots and lots people complain about micro jitters. I purchased a dji osmos 3 other day it’s unreal what kind smooth footage u can get from a 800$ peice of equipment.
@@chrisborger7016 unless you’re on a crazy wide lens which I’m usually at the widest for rollers 20-24mm when rear center mounted I never see my 4runner in the shot. Some friends run 16-35’s maybe at 16 you might get a little. I’d go walk outside with the cam and lens and just stand at the back of the car and see how far sideways you can turn the camera pretending it’s on an arm to see what your frame looks like if that makes sense.
Great “to the point” video. I’m digging these. Do you have in the works any expansion on how much better your isolator is over the upgraded Tilta soft isolator?
We’re going to do a side by side, ours just helps reduce the micro jitters for longer takes
@@ImJasonAnthony I have the new Tilta Soft Isolator, but I think I might try take it apart to remove some of the rings, as my build is quite lightweight I feel that it is still too 'stiff' for a soft isolator... Any tips for reducing micro jitters?
Tremendously helpful! Appreciate this level of detail. I needed all the help I can get with this thing. :)
Best video on this system that I’ve everrrrrr seen. I own one and it’s a headache. Thank you.
Appreciate the kind words bro! Yeah it is and honestly moving to the movmax n2 system 😭😭 just don’t want to deal with it anymore!
Sweeet!! When you do, could you let me know the difference between that and the MOVMAX RAZAR? Cuz again, no one, not even movmax channel helps me see the difference besides the means of mounting.
Yo man I’ve had this set up for about two years and you’re so right on the limit of information available or people simply just call it crap and give up.
I’ve got mine dialed in pretty bad ass now and have done speeds on interstate with zero issues.
My main reason for this comment is this was the best tutorial / feedback on the arm I’ve seen put together and a lot of which I already encoperate on my current rig from trail and error.
I’m shooting an all original GTR R34 v spec tomorrow and couldn’t be more pumped. I’ll be encompassing some of this for sure!!
Subscribed 🤟
Hope the production went well, I legit made this video after being so frustrated with the little info that’s out there and outdated shit. After owning 2 (we front & rear mount 2 cams at the same time) we’ve been able to pick up on some tips and tricks! Still needs a lot of playing around and thinking about moving to the movmax N2.
I just grabbed an MR2 Spyder so there will be more car content on here on how to shoot better automotive cinematography🤘🏻🤘🏻
@@ImJasonAnthonyI’m def thinking of going movmax as well. I’m so frustrated with this Tilta
Dude that setup is beautiful 🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤 loving the video Jay! 💪
Just trying to stay consistent my man!
Awesome break down
My Man!!! Appreciate you checking it out!
been looking for this for so long, exactly what i needed. Thank!
Same and thats why I made this haha, DM me on IG @im_jasonanthony if you ever have questions bro on the hydra
@@ImJasonAnthony appreciate it! Will do
very clear and interesting video. I also use the Sony FX3 and the 24-70 2.8GM. How heavy are the counterweights I see in your video? Can you tell me where I can find them?
Great breakdown and cover of the issues. Suffering microjitters for a while and hard to get rid of this. Some good tips here I havent tried.
Really appreciate it! There’s not much info on the arm and after so many trials with it, I felt like I had to make one!
U have a video on how you made that custom isolated? Or ever thought of selling them?
Great tutorial
Appreciate it bro!
Where can I buy your isolator? I’m absolutely fed up with this damn Tilta hydra
расскажи, какие настройки стабилизатора (если используете DJI RS3 PRO) ставите на мотор, плавность, баланс и тд!!!
This is one of the best tutorials (and THE BEST on the topic of Hydra) on UA-cam! Dropping real life and useful knowledge like a bomb! Thank You! Have a question about the controller! I’m using the one from tilta… and it’s not good. Are there any better solutions to control the RS2?
My man there are we actually bought a custom controller and it’s like the big movie pro one with the joy stick. DM me on IG @im_jasonanthony and I can send you links. It’s hands down 100000x better operating 1 big joystick in the camera car. We’ve tried all types of radios
I need that isolator ASAP, The Hydra is a nightmare.
Sheesh thanks for the tip bro! I was going to ask you about balancing the gimbal with a zoom lens. Also i definitely need to bump my strength up to try to fix my micro jitter. Great video brotha! Appreciate you for dropping the knowledge!
Give it a shot and let me know what you think bro! Appreciate you taking the time to give it a watch!
Is PF follow mode best follow mode while using Hydra alien?
I prefer PTF so you can say tilt too! Some cool shots are from the road tilting up to the car revealing the vehicle or you can do the reverse like tilt down from the trees onto the car.
Is it better to record in 60 fps to slow down footage in post get rid of road vibrations as well using stabilizer or what do you usually film in when recording car rollers?
No we NEVER slow down rollers unless it’s for an intentional shot. Automotive cinematography we want the motion blur of the movement and speed in which the cars are moving. If we went to 60 we’d lose all that. Great question bro
Ok thanks a lot for the advice man appreciate it alot.
@@chrisborger7016 Of course bro, When we film for Lamborghini, Toyota, Hyundai all our clients we're always 23.978FPS/24FPS unless we want to slow specific shots down.
@@ImJasonAnthony If you maintain 180deg shutter angle, wouldn't you achieve the same amount of motion blur? Also, I'm curious about that custom isolator. I didn't see another video on it, but I'm curious if you had a parts list and .stl files you'd be willing to share so others can build their own.
@@MoneyMunday I wish it was the case but that is incorrect at 60FPS and a 180* shutter, you are getting motion blur at 60FPS which looks VERY different being there’s more frames being captured if that makes sense. So you’re visually seeing 60 frames per second played back vs 24. With more frames per second captured you’re seeing less blur due to that exact reason, there’s more frames which result in less motion blur
Working currently on a dedicated isolator video and hope to have it done soon.
Anybody got an issue with remote control handle always roatating the gimbal to the left? (imitating the joystick movement to the left)? Tryied recalibrating, tilta support is not helpful
They’re the worst man, we actually found a radio similar to the movi about a year ago with the big joystick and focus wheel that’s been 10000x better than a ps4/xbox or DJI control handle
@@ImJasonAnthony do you have a link?
what are your iMac Specs ??
This iMac was fully spec’d out when I grabbed it at the time. It’s the m2 version with 2tb internal ssd, and the highest GPU and ram options. Would have to check when I’m back at the editing bay!
Have you ever tried mounting your Hydra arm to a speed rail setup?
@@chrisborger7016 yessir have a rear hitch plate and run triangular rails on the top of my 4 runner to secure the vertical rail to adjust the height of the Hydra arm!
Just curious cause get way more micro jitters from using that rather then the original suction cup mount just like using the speed rail set up seems more secure
@@ImJasonAnthony is it better to have your vertical pole closer to the truck because it’s almost like the movement of the trucks suspension gets exaggerated the farther extended out you are. I bought mine from cine milled. In there tutorial video it says the further you are from vehicle is best so that you can pan farther left and right without getting back of truck in your shot. But like said earlier with the actual suction cup mounting system that goes right onto back vehicle I get minimal jitter. Maybe I answered my own question still have keep trying new things but lots people say the rs3 pro is poor gimbal for vehicle moving shots and lots people complain about micro jitters. I purchased a dji osmos 3 other day it’s unreal what kind smooth footage u can get from a 800$ peice of equipment.
@@chrisborger7016 unless you’re on a crazy wide lens which I’m usually at the widest for rollers 20-24mm when rear center mounted I never see my 4runner in the shot. Some friends run 16-35’s maybe at 16 you might get a little. I’d go walk outside with the cam and lens and just stand at the back of the car and see how far sideways you can turn the camera pretending it’s on an arm to see what your frame looks like if that makes sense.