Big thank you to everyone that is watching and supporting our channel! We can’t believe this video has gotten so many views and being that this was a very old job, we have since improved on our methods and continue to tweak our craft of installing yard drainage systems. Our goal is to help the homeowner and DIYer understand Storm water drainage. To see more recent videos that teach the best practices to use when building a drainage system visit our channel📺
Great video and very educational. You mention you've since improved on your methods and tweaked. Could you provide details on what improvements you've made since? Thank you so much!
This is really smart. Im struggling with a similar issue right in front of our house, it's becoming a swamp very quickly. Thanks for this info. Now, I need to find some volunteers who like to shovel. :)
good job? who could'nt guess that you that you had work the pipe to change slope..make the underground slope so it drains while top is still flat..easily impressed huh..
I built a French drain that was 3 feet wide and 12 feet long, dug a 3 foot diameter hole 3 foot deep filled with drain rocks then installed my drain lines. Works well in light to moderate rain. hard rains drain a lot faster but still flood the end of my patio. It is much better than it was before. Good video, I did the same but on a larger scale.
Next time put a 2/3/4 inch pipe in there with holes on the bottom near the ground, then cover with rock. Water rises in the trench and fills the pipe immediately exiting the trench, almost like a water highway.
Thank you so much for showing how to do this. I was a bit sceptical at first, however it works, amazing. We will now hopefully stop getting flooded every time it rains.
Great solution for areas that do not have lengthy freezing temperatures. We generally try not to discharge water onto walking surfaces in the winter because of ice buildup. Discharging water across a sidewalk in Wisconsin would be like buying a lottery ticket to a lawsuit for a slip and fall claim.
Collecting rain water can be an ordinance violation as some towns/cities prevent the collection of rainwater. Mostly due to the lack of upkeep from the homeowner when the barrels become full. Always check with your local building inspector to determine potential pitfalls before purchasing any supplies for a project.
My runs from downspout have solid 3" pvc to drywell in planting/flower bed and perforated drain run to street so if garden/lawn is dry, outflow can help water landscape (in front); backyard rain barrel for veggie garden.
I did the exact same thing with a drainage project of mine. One thing I learned though is that over time sediment will build up at the drainage end and prevent percolation back into the ground, so I have to periodically clear that out.
A trick that has been used by soils engineers for probably almost 100 years, but which has been totally ignored by the plumbing industry, is to place a layer of filter sand between the soil and the pipe, or between the surrounding soil and the drain rock. This can be done on underground structures or surrounding the perimeter of catch basins. A very available and highly effective filter sand is that which is suitable for use as fine aggregate in concrete, meeting the specs for ASTM C33. It's commonly called "torpedo sand" by those who don't really know it's primary purpose, and you may have to search for it by that name. This sand is very clean, but it's also well graded so that the spaces between particles are much smaller than what's the case for what might be called "beach sand" or "river sand", etc. The small pore spaces within this sand will stop silt-size soil particles from entry. Since the filter sand is right against the surrounding soil, there's no room for the soil to move, and thus there's no accumulation of fines on the outside surface of the sand fill and so no clogging occurs (unlike what happens when clear stone is in contact with the surrounding soil). Properly installed, this kind of a filter will last forever and will never become clogged. It is plumbers who write the rules for their trade in the building codes, and so the value of this filtering method will probably never be recognized by those who need this information the most.
Great video sir! The audio couldn`t have been any clearer or better for someone hard hearing and no music made it all the better. GREAT job with that drain!
i am so glad we actually have proper plumbing into both storm water and sewer water down her in australia....you could have also used AG pipe to assist the drainage along the concrete edge, as it would pick up all that water and move it away from the house
As a landscaper, if the customer is having standing water issues and there’s no slope or any other way to get the water out from a location, we just dig a 2-3 foot deep and 1-2 foot wide and however long trench. We line it with landscaping fabric, fill it with drain rock and cover it up. It’s kinda like a French drain but without the perforated drain line. We tell people to call us back if it failed and we haven’t had anyone call us back yet! So that 2 foot deep pipe with rock at the end is kind of like that.
Any videos of your work. Also would you recommend tacking plastic damp proof sheets to the bricks in the trench before filling up the trench with pebbles.
@@Mobile-pd1ucno videos, but unfortunately I have no idea what you’re asking about the plastic sheets and bricks haha sorry. We just did the trench, line it with landscaping weed fabric (the woven stuff so water can move through it) fill the trench with drain rock, and cover the the top with more fabric and either cover that with mulch, more rock, or even dirt.
had water puddling in front of my home after raining heavy or light the rain puddled where the street met the property. It also went out into the street about 3 feet my stone mason did what you mentioned and it pretty much did the job . we had pachysandra growing there too. it was a very shady spot and grass couldn't grow there. . The pachysandra have gone bonkers I think because they are getting a lot of water now . never knew pachysandras had flowers
THANK YOU! This video is EXTREMELY Informative!!! Plus you did a great job demonstrating, describing, & explaining every step you took!! Every HOME BUYER needs to learn this!!! I wish I knew this 30+ years ago & it would’ve have been nice to get a REMINDER every few years as well! **This Channel does exceptional PUBLIC SERVICE 👏by providing IMPORTANT information!!!!👍👏👏
This may work for lighter rain but a good heavy soaking will overwhelm this quickly. Also, depending on your jurisdiction, sheet flowing over the public right of way may not be an allowed form of site drainage (it is not where I live - drain pipes must exit the public ROW and daylight into the street gutter).
With a side walk like that. It is most likely a rural area with no codes to worry about. And as shallow as this storm drain is being installed, it must be in the South where it never freezes.
Decent video of the process, but in terms of functionality, I’d have to agree agree this will be completely overwhelmed with a heavy rain. We had a similar problem here in Florida with almost 0 slope to the street, and it required me to French drain the entire perimeter of the yard into two sump basin’s with to discharge lines out to the street to blow the water away from the house. Had I install this particular method the water volume would have back, flowed into the yard and around the house, not to the sidewalk
in some townships you can't pipe into the road and in northern states that water dumping over the sidewalk leads to ice..lawyers love that kind of thing
I had a similar issue but not really against the house. 59 year old me placed 4 mini catch basins that drained into perferated drain pipes. They led into a solid pipe. I made sure the pipe had good fall & was able to move water and into a pop up drain at the road. I'll eventually connect my gutter drains into it. I did use river rock around it I also placed fabric over it to keep the perforations clear. There is no longer standing water there. This work was done in Indiana.
Don't make rain water flood onto the road please. It is a serious fine in most council areas. Imagine there is a serious rain fall and your flooding water section causes a car to lose control and have an accident. First you probably broke the law as drainage is meant to be kept inside the property boundary - then your property insurance would not cover the accident cause you broke the law..... need I go on?
@@markplain2555 nonsense. Are you from England? We dont call them "council areas" in America. We also require community storm drains in neighborhoods here. Dumping your property runoff into the street, allows it to run off to the community storm drains, eliminating the water from the street. "Need I go on"? You literally dont know what youre talking about. You can "go on" all you want, but youre flat out wrong. At least in America you are wrong. I dont know about England, where they do everything wrong, and havent updated building techniques in 100 years. But please, do go on. 🙄
@@carllennen3520 Wow Carl....you sure have a way with people. A guy, possibly Canadian, makes a spurious comment about yard drainage and you manage to offend the entire mother country, and a different one at that. England does at least some things right, they make a good kidney pudding, let's see THAT in America.
I’m dealing with this at my house. But it already has the same “channel” drains installed. U can’t beat Mother Nature. The drains clog and overflow with heavy rain. My cement is now cracked from saturating the soil causing “heaving” (expanding soil). Heaving isn’t a problem in FL. By the way, that channel drain is godly expensive. The fix, all gutter/roof water is directed away from the area. I had about the same amount of cement as the video but had it all removed. Had dirt brought in to give the proper slope and a new cement patio put down. The cement has a slight slope to shed water away from the house. No channel drain, no cutting the cement, no digging, no pipes, no cleaning out the drains. Any company or crew who can install a sidewalk can install a small patio with the correct slope.
I think this is a great video and we actually did something similar in our backyard but directed the water to the furthest point of the backyard.....i just wanted to mention a situation my neighbor had with irrigation issues in her driveway....a contractor directed the water out of the driveway towards the sidewalk and one of the shady neighbors in our neighborhood walked by her house on the sidewalk he claimed he slipped on the ice from her irrigation system and sued her. He won of course so just one thing to consider
Awesome videos, they have been a blessing! Thank you. Quick question, how does the water not run back out the catch basin once the water fills up the clean out tee? Please help me to understand that science, thanks again!
it more than likely will. if the ground is holding water by the house it will holding at the sidewalk. the water storage at the sidewalk is so small it will only help for light rains. most cities have ordinances were that would be illegal as the run off has go over the lawn first and can't be directed to municipal stormwater systems.
@@vinceaaron8921 this looks like Florida and in many Florida neighborhoods there are concrete water channels that move the water from areas into storm drains. I didn’t see it in the footage but I imagine the channel is there, once the water rises above a certain level it’ll begin to move towards the channel.
Some good ideas here. This exact setup depends on what the Porosity of the soil is A larger “French drain” might be needed in more clay like/ less draining soils. Would even consider making the whole trench, after the grate, a French drain using weeping tile, fabric and 40mm
No worries. The plastic will break down in about 120 years. Plus, people probably consume that much plastic over the course of their lifetime anyway. It's like sugar on your frosted flakes.
Nice system! If I was the homeowner, I would have installed gutters before investing in a drain system, lol...not saying don't do a drain system, but gutters are step 1 imo.
If the whole yard was flat like you said then you should use perforated pipe to catch soaking water from the saturated yard. This only drains the two areas you installed inlets at.
That was my thought. Overall I like what he did, but projecting this onto my own flat yard I thought a perforated drain tile would work without having to have a catch basin grate in the middle of the yard. But you would spend a lot more on materials.
That would be a bad Idea, for the silt from the yard would then clog the pipe. Even adding "window screen" around the piping the length of the project would be work intensive.
This channel is legit. Subscribed. Thanks. I will need to watch this post several times to understand all the fluid dynamic theories. ~~~~~~VVV~~~~~ (ha har)
You should use a non-woven fabric to wrap the gravel around the pipe so that soil will not choke the holes in the pipe over time. Without that, your pipe will work for about 2 years only.
@@iwastoldtherewouldbenomath6869 kinda weird cuz lots are generally sloped with a 2% grade (1/8" per ft) from back towards the street (building code). I dug a sewer line from my pool house out to the front cleanout riser, next to my house, in a uniform 18" ditch the whole way. Used an 8ft framing level to check grade and it cracked the bubble the whole way.....23 yrs later still works, never clogged. We rent it out to college students now. SoCalif.
@@readmore3634 I do this kind of work for a living and I can tell you most homes have land that is sloped incorrectly. I also generally do not use a level but rather I use a laser level and shoot the entire run. You can get into problems with a level because it only covers a few feet. The video solution is one similar to what I have done when there is little to no available grade to carry the water away. Many times I have had my crew dig out a catchment basin to hold the water and it's been highly effective.
@@iwastoldtherewouldbenomath6869 Good to know, I just figured eventually it's gunna fill up with dirt cuz dirt doesn't soak in...it builds up. I used ABS (plastic) pipe so it's not perfectly straight. An 8ft level and constantly shading pipe with dirt is a must down in the 6" wide ditch. It has to be pretty straight at 2% grade (1/2" of fall every 4 ft). 2% grade is actually legal/adequate but it has to be cast iron...I hate cast iron. 40 years Master Plumber, Union, journeyman, Local 364 in SoCalif. Custom houses are my specialty....lots of remodel.
@@iwastoldtherewouldbenomath6869 "wrap the gravel around the pipe" meaning the gravel around the pipe not the pipe itself. I guess you have not taken differential equation.
I have 3" drain pipes installed in my patio also without any slop given to it and the run is about 79 or 80 feet long, including a section I am installing for the pipe to go out to my driveway which is slopped towards the street; I can in the future cut the cement and connect that pipe to the main drain pipe but not ready to pay for the cement cutter just yet, not until I have all the materials required for the project so my plan was to run the pipe out to the driveway underneath the slab allowing the rain water to just go dissipate in that area; we live in the desert and we do not see lot of rain here.
Some towns have rules about how close to the road you can discharge. Example, no closer than ten feet. I think a danger of discharging below the sidewalk and into the road is that water can also travel from the road and into your pipe. Finally, at the end of the line, if water has to travel upward to discharge then debris can settle inside your line and clog it. In this case, anything getting into that drain at the door is going to travel to the low point and potentially settle and clog.
yes I love the 35 pipe I do not like those flexible pipe I also really like channel drain I really need to do this at my place when I get time or money to do so
Geez, old mate nearly put the demo saw into his toes... twice. Also, I agree with other comments about using ag and wrapping in geo fab. I guess if you're about to sell the house it'll be someone else's problem by the time it needs replacing again
That 6" SDR35 repair coupling is not SCH80. 6" SCH80 has a pressure rating of 280psi. 6" SDR35 is 46psi. Either way it's fine. It's not going to crush and that's what matters.
Kind of interesting that "drain rock" used like this reduces percolation because in a very short time dirt will come down the line and fill all the voids. Result is very rocky soil and water doesn't go through rock very fast.
I presume the rock is used to prevent larger objects from collecting and blocking the overall operation of the drain. The likelihood of the homeowner keeping all 3 drains clean is pretty low considering their yard condition.
You can jet it from the top and then use a sucker truck at the bottom to suck out the silt. The pipe will silt up if there isn't sufficient cleansing velocity to push the sediment along the pipe.
you don't. Most of the time you would use a perforate type of line for just that reason. Unless there is a high flow rate, it will fill up eventually. But you can maintain a cleaner pipe from time to time with a high pressure hose and then cleaning out the catch basins and the out flow by the sidewalk. The other thing you can do is have some sort of screening on the high side catch basins to reduce the amount of sediment that enters. But you need to clean those often to prevent a clog at the initial entry point.
It’s like a tiny, tiny soak away that instantly overwhelms and dumps water into the street. In the UK we would install a large underground soak away as dumping water onto the street is not allowed.
What did it look like at the catch basin when it was flowing over the sidewalk? If that point was higher than the catch basin I would imagine that the catch basin is flooded and overflowing too.
I like the 2' down pipe at the end of the run, to allow the pipe to eventually dry out. I'm going to add that to my system. BUT: he either failed to do so, or failed to mention, you NEVER dig anywhere, _especially_ near the front of the house, without first calling 811 to have them plot where all the utility lines are. Damaging a utility line can cost 10s of thousands of dollars to fix (you get the bill). And that's if you survive hitting a gas or electrical feed. It's free, and the first thing you do. Don't ever assume you know where everything is, you don't! I have the entire neighborhood's 480V power grid feed running straight through my yard, on _my side_ of the sidewalk! Definitely not obvious, and definitely not something you want to "discover!"
@@dross10001 For me, each local utility sent out a guy or two. It wasn't just one guy that did all the utilities at once. It took a couple days for them to all show up. They'll either spray paint and label (with the paint) where something is, or they'll stick a colored flag in the ground, or a series of flags to mark the entire length of a conduit or pipe. Each utility has their own color, I think it's yellow for electric, orange for gas, blue for water. Something else for cable. Then they'll advise you not to trust the marks down to the inch but to give them plenty of leeway on each side, like a foot or two. And they wouldn't stipulate the depth for me. My lines might be 2' down, or 3' or 6', I had/have no idea. And if I remember right, they're not obliged to tell you where YOUR lines are, only theirs, up to the demarcation point. That point might be at your house, or at the street. Water guys only put a blue spray dot at the street. The cable guy put down a dozen flags all the way to my house. I imagine every utility in every town does it slightly differently, so this isn't a guide or anything, just what happened at my house. I used a machine to dig some holes, but only a foot or so deep ( Iwas planting 40 plants to replace a lawn). That was pretty safe. When I had to go deeper for a tree, I only used the machine down about a foot, then did the rest by hand. I was very aware of what it would cost me if I hit a line (assuming I lived!), so the extra hand labor was worth the peace of mind. Not that you couldn't damage a line with a hand tool, but you go easy and slowly and hope for the best! A friend of mine had a restaurant, and the business next door was having some work done. The excavator hit a gas line. It burned the entire restaurant down, and killed one of his employees. So you're not just risking the cost of repair to a gas line when you don't 811. PS. I doubt very much they would ever email a plan. And you wouldn't want to accept it if they did. You know how that works: the plans say one thing, and then the original builder does whatever the heck he wants. So, yah, they'll send guys to your house and they'll use instruments to detect the actual lines. It's the only way to know for sure.
![How to Build a French Drain Full Tutorial in Less than 10 Minutes [ Veteran Contractor Explains ]](/img/n.gif)
Big thank you to everyone that is watching and supporting our channel! We can’t believe this video has gotten so many views and being that this was a very old job, we have since improved on our methods and continue to tweak our craft of installing yard drainage systems. Our goal is to help the homeowner and DIYer understand Storm water drainage. To see more recent videos that teach the best practices to use when building a drainage system visit our channel📺
Great video and very educational. You mention you've since improved on your methods and tweaked. Could you provide details on what improvements you've made since? Thank you so much!
The❤j is
This is really smart. Im struggling with a similar issue right in front of our house, it's becoming a swamp very quickly. Thanks for this info. Now, I need to find some volunteers who like to shovel. :)
@@GreenExplorerEB Visit our channel and check out the newest videos💧
I like how you produced this video - no filler music or wasted repetition. Good job.
good job? who could'nt guess that you that you had work the pipe to change slope..make the underground slope so it drains while top is still flat..easily impressed huh..
Thank you for the support!
@@donaldcook6997 I was impressed.
Like the good 'ole days of youtube
@@donaldcook6997 seems obvious but my HOA hired a company who did NOT slope the pipe.
Nice video. Thank you for the professional narration explaining what you were doing and why. Thank you so much for no annoying music in the video too.
Thank you for the kind words!
Totally agree.....NO MUSIC IS THE WAY TO GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I built a French drain that was 3 feet wide and 12 feet long, dug a 3 foot diameter hole 3 foot deep filled with drain rocks then installed my drain lines. Works well in light to moderate rain. hard rains drain a lot faster but still flood the end of my patio. It is much better than it was before. Good video, I did the same but on a larger scale.
Next time put a 2/3/4 inch pipe in there with holes on the bottom near the ground, then cover with rock. Water rises in the trench and fills the pipe immediately exiting the trench, almost like a water highway.
You don’t put the basin at the end of the pipe? At the ground level?
Thank you so much for showing how to do this. I was a bit sceptical at first, however it works, amazing. We will now hopefully stop getting flooded every time it rains.
Seems like roof gutters and down spouts would be useful.
Right!!
But it would still puddle
@@Tkidddd would help though
Right
😂😂
Great solution for areas that do not have lengthy freezing temperatures. We generally try not to discharge water onto walking surfaces in the winter because of ice buildup. Discharging water across a sidewalk in Wisconsin would be like buying a lottery ticket to a lawsuit for a slip and fall claim.
Nice, calming voice.... CONCRETE SAW! back to calming voice
Excellent video. No filler, no waste... concise explanation that is easy to absorb and feel confident to implement. Thank you.
Fitting roof gutters and down pipes would be pretty effective. In addition, you could install water butts to collect rain water for use in the garden.
Collecting rain water can be an ordinance violation as some towns/cities prevent the collection of rainwater.
Mostly due to the lack of upkeep from the homeowner when the barrels become full.
Always check with your local building inspector to determine potential pitfalls before purchasing any supplies for a project.
My runs from downspout have solid 3" pvc to drywell in planting/flower bed and perforated drain run to street so if garden/lawn is dry, outflow can help water landscape (in front); backyard rain barrel for veggie garden.
That won't solve a heavy rainfall problem
I was just thinking it would have been easier to install gutters
I did the exact same thing with a drainage project of mine. One thing I learned though is that over time sediment will build up at the drainage end and prevent percolation back into the ground, so I have to periodically clear that out.
A trick that has been used by soils engineers for probably almost 100 years, but which has been totally ignored by the plumbing industry, is to place a layer of filter sand between the soil and the pipe, or between the surrounding soil and the drain rock. This can be done on underground structures or surrounding the perimeter of catch basins. A very available and highly effective filter sand is that which is suitable for use as fine aggregate in concrete, meeting the specs for ASTM C33. It's commonly called "torpedo sand" by those who don't really know it's primary purpose, and you may have to search for it by that name. This sand is very clean, but it's also well graded so that the spaces between particles are much smaller than what's the case for what might be called "beach sand" or "river sand", etc. The small pore spaces within this sand will stop silt-size soil particles from entry. Since the filter sand is right against the surrounding soil, there's no room for the soil to move, and thus there's no accumulation of fines on the outside surface of the sand fill and so no clogging occurs (unlike what happens when clear stone is in contact with the surrounding soil). Properly installed, this kind of a filter will last forever and will never become clogged. It is plumbers who write the rules for their trade in the building codes, and so the value of this filtering method will probably never be recognized by those who need this information the most.
@@ericl2969thank you very much for this information!!
@@ericl2969 In NJ it's referred to as concrete sand. Concrete sand also compacts very well and is used under pavers and such.
Great video sir!
The audio couldn`t have been any clearer or better for someone hard hearing and no music made it all the better.
GREAT job with that drain!
i am so glad we actually have proper plumbing into both storm water and sewer water down her in australia....you could have also used AG pipe to assist the drainage along the concrete edge, as it would pick up all that water and move it away from the house
As a landscaper, if the customer is having standing water issues and there’s no slope or any other way to get the water out from a location, we just dig a 2-3 foot deep and 1-2 foot wide and however long trench. We line it with landscaping fabric, fill it with drain rock and cover it up. It’s kinda like a French drain but without the perforated drain line. We tell people to call us back if it failed and we haven’t had anyone call us back yet! So that 2 foot deep pipe with rock at the end is kind of like that.
So a soakway....
Any videos of your work. Also would you recommend tacking plastic damp proof sheets to the bricks in the trench before filling up the trench with pebbles.
@@Mobile-pd1ucno videos, but unfortunately I have no idea what you’re asking about the plastic sheets and bricks haha sorry. We just did the trench, line it with landscaping weed fabric (the woven stuff so water can move through it) fill the trench with drain rock, and cover the the top with more fabric and either cover that with mulch, more rock, or even dirt.
had water puddling in front of my home after raining heavy or light the rain puddled where the street met the property. It also went out into the street about 3 feet
my stone mason did what you mentioned and it pretty much did the job . we had pachysandra growing there too. it was a very shady spot and grass couldn't grow there. . The pachysandra have gone bonkers I think because they are getting a lot of water now . never knew pachysandras had flowers
How long is the run length? I suppose it should work in heavy rain as well?
THANK YOU! This video is EXTREMELY Informative!!! Plus you did a great job demonstrating, describing, & explaining every step you took!! Every HOME BUYER needs to learn this!!! I wish I knew this 30+ years ago & it would’ve have been nice to get a REMINDER every few years as well! **This Channel does exceptional PUBLIC SERVICE 👏by providing IMPORTANT information!!!!👍👏👏
Looks great, nice way to make the best of a situation where some factors are out of your control. Thanks!
This may work for lighter rain but a good heavy soaking will overwhelm this quickly. Also, depending on your jurisdiction, sheet flowing over the public right of way may not be an allowed form of site drainage (it is not where I live - drain pipes must exit the public ROW and daylight into the street gutter).
6:35 as he said, the sidewalk is connected to the road.. no curb to daylight into
With a side walk like that. It is most likely a rural area with no codes to worry about. And as shallow as this storm drain is being installed, it must be in the South where it never freezes.
For sure...I wouldn't install/warranty/advertise this as a solution. I'd rather have my customer pissed at someone else.
Decent video of the process, but in terms of functionality, I’d have to agree agree this will be completely overwhelmed with a heavy rain. We had a similar problem here in Florida with almost 0 slope to the street, and it required me to French drain the entire perimeter of the yard into two sump basin’s with to discharge lines out to the street to blow the water away from the house. Had I install this particular method the water volume would have back, flowed into the yard and around the house, not to the sidewalk
in some townships you can't pipe into the road and in northern states that water dumping over the sidewalk leads to ice..lawyers love that kind of thing
I had a similar issue but not really against the house. 59 year old me placed 4 mini catch basins that drained into perferated drain pipes. They led into a solid pipe. I made sure the pipe had good fall & was able to move water and into a pop up drain at the road. I'll eventually connect my gutter drains into it. I did use river rock around it I also placed fabric over it to keep the perforations clear. There is no longer standing water there. This work was done in Indiana.
Don't make rain water flood onto the road please. It is a serious fine in most council areas. Imagine there is a serious rain fall and your flooding water section causes a car to lose control and have an accident. First you probably broke the law as drainage is meant to be kept inside the property boundary - then your property insurance would not cover the accident cause you broke the law..... need I go on?
@@markplain2555 nonsense. Are you from England? We dont call them "council areas" in America. We also require community storm drains in neighborhoods here. Dumping your property runoff into the street, allows it to run off to the community storm drains, eliminating the water from the street.
"Need I go on"? You literally dont know what youre talking about. You can "go on" all you want, but youre flat out wrong. At least in America you are wrong. I dont know about England, where they do everything wrong, and havent updated building techniques in 100 years. But please, do go on. 🙄
@@carllennen3520 Wow Carl....you sure have a way with people. A guy, possibly Canadian, makes a spurious comment about yard drainage and you manage to offend the entire mother country, and a different one at that. England does at least some things right, they make a good kidney pudding, let's see THAT in America.
@TheLarryBrown we fought a war to get away from garbage like kidney pudding, and poorly planned out neighborhood drainage.
@@TheLarryBrown Carl isn't wrong though.
1:24 This man is scaring his toes for no reason.
Perfect. I will start my project this weekend Jan 27 ,2024 - I really need it, its about 70 feet of pipe and 2 12x12 catch basins.
I’m dealing with this at my house. But it already has the same “channel” drains installed. U can’t beat Mother Nature. The drains clog and overflow with heavy rain. My cement is now cracked from saturating the soil causing “heaving” (expanding soil). Heaving isn’t a problem in FL. By the way, that channel drain is godly expensive. The fix, all gutter/roof water is directed away from the area. I had about the same amount of cement as the video but had it all removed. Had dirt brought in to give the proper slope and a new cement patio put down. The cement has a slight slope to shed water away from the house. No channel drain, no cutting the cement, no digging, no pipes, no cleaning out the drains. Any company or crew who can install a sidewalk can install a small patio with the correct slope.
That’s your best video yet. I really like that one.
I think this is a great video and we actually did something similar in our backyard but directed the water to the furthest point of the backyard.....i just wanted to mention a situation my neighbor had with irrigation issues in her driveway....a contractor directed the water out of the driveway towards the sidewalk and one of the shady neighbors in our neighborhood walked by her house on the sidewalk he claimed he slipped on the ice from her irrigation system and sued her. He won of course so just one thing to consider
Sweet idea. I hope my new client likes it as much as I do. Thanks for sharing.
Gutters was removed from the chat 😂😂😂😂
Awesome videos, they have been a blessing! Thank you. Quick question, how does the water not run back out the catch basin once the water fills up the clean out tee? Please help me to understand that science, thanks again!
After you said "all the water drips right off", the first step should have been installing gutters. This is treating symptoms, not the problem.
great editing of this video.... clear concise and fun to watch! thank you sir!
Excellent video and extremely professional
Thank you very much!
Great execution on a hard problem to fix.
Thank you!
Any reason to use a grate instead of an emitter?
We don’t use grates like that anymore, use a pop up emitter if you can’t straight pipe the discharge.
I was thinking to myself, that’s just gonna fill up with water immediately. You explained and it makes perfect sense.
it more than likely will. if the ground is holding water by the house it will holding at the sidewalk. the water storage at the sidewalk is so small it will only help for light rains. most cities have ordinances were that would be illegal as the run off has go over the lawn first and can't be directed to municipal stormwater systems.
@@vinceaaron8921 this looks like Florida and in many Florida neighborhoods there are concrete water channels that move the water from areas into storm drains.
I didn’t see it in the footage but I imagine the channel is there, once the water rises above a certain level it’ll begin to move towards the channel.
Similar issues at my place but I have a slope. Still like taking the info and using where I can. Cheers.
That's clever design thank you for posting this.
Some good ideas here. This exact setup depends on what the
Porosity of the soil is A larger “French drain” might be needed in more clay like/ less draining soils. Would even consider making the whole trench, after the grate, a French drain using weeping tile, fabric and 40mm
You didn't fix the root problem:. Directing water off of the roof correctly.
Gutters are probably a cheaper solution, but I am not the homeowner.
Loved the Gandalf reference, got your point across perfectly!
Nice! Previously the house owner experienced floods without drainage system in place. Now the owner can have floods with drainage system in place… 😅😅😅
True, a level draining system is actually called “a reservoir”…
Fit a siphon trap midway. Simple and works a treat.
Great work and clear + quick explanation. Thanks.
Thank you 🙏
I've learned a very good draining system
I'd love to see how well it handled a huge downpour...
You had me at the Gandalf reference 😂😂😂
Theres no way that theres 4 inches of new concrete, more like 2
Also that's boarded bro, where you had the 3 bricks laid as well beside the drain rocks. Good job 🤠
Great video. Your explanation is really good and useful. Thanks a lot.
Bloody good thinking there. Well done.
Nice clean work. It's always nice to see people taking pride in what they do
Except the process of cutting the pipe with the hole saw in the meadow dispersing all the plastic chippings and leaving it there.
No worries. The plastic will break down in about 120 years. Plus, people probably consume that much plastic over the course of their lifetime anyway. It's like sugar on your frosted flakes.
Nice job and video man. Just so glad to see others using pvc and not that corrugated crap.
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My guy is creating a giant pothole with the drainage system lol
Excellent job and well explained,easy if you have the right tools.
Beautiful system.
Nice system! If I was the homeowner, I would have installed gutters before investing in a drain system, lol...not saying don't do a drain system, but gutters are step 1 imo.
Good work man. Commenting to bump a local contractors content
If the whole yard was flat like you said then you should use perforated pipe to catch soaking water from the saturated yard. This only drains the two areas you installed inlets at.
That was my thought. Overall I like what he did, but projecting this onto my own flat yard I thought a perforated drain tile would work without having to have a catch basin grate in the middle of the yard. But you would spend a lot more on materials.
That would be a bad Idea, for the silt from the yard would then clog the pipe. Even adding "window screen" around the piping the length of the project would be work intensive.
I like this solution! Better than having to figure out using an outdoor sump pump.
VERY well done video - clear, concise, and informative. Excellent!
Huge job. Well done 👍
I'm an idiot, but I would have started with some gutters on that house. But that is a really cool setup
More gutters would definitely be a good idea! Home owner may do that in the future.
gutters would be a huge help to this house.
@@johnlatvenas590 Gutters to the solid pipe, then a basin in the sidewalk if needed
4:06. I caught that burned finger, 👍😄
That sidewalk could become a sheet of transparent ice. Someone slips and gets hurt a lawyer would have an easy time suing the home owner.
Good thing we are in FL.
Great idea. Although I'd start with gutters and add your drainage system.
This channel is legit. Subscribed. Thanks.
I will need to watch this post several times to understand all the fluid dynamic theories.
~~~~~~VVV~~~~~ (ha har)
Thank you! we really appreciate your support!
You should use a non-woven fabric to wrap the gravel around the pipe so that soil will not choke the holes in the pipe over time.
Without that, your pipe will work for about 2 years only.
Did you miss the part where he used solid PVC out to the curb? Why would you wrap a solid pipe?
@@iwastoldtherewouldbenomath6869
kinda weird cuz lots are generally sloped with a 2% grade (1/8" per ft) from back towards the street (building code). I dug a sewer line from my pool house out to the front cleanout riser, next to my house, in a uniform 18" ditch the whole way. Used an 8ft framing level to check grade and it cracked the bubble the whole way.....23 yrs later still works, never clogged. We rent it out to college students now. SoCalif.
@@readmore3634 I do this kind of work for a living and I can tell you most homes have land that is sloped incorrectly.
I also generally do not use a level but rather I use a laser level and shoot the entire run. You can get into problems with a level because it only covers a few feet.
The video solution is one similar to what I have done when there is little to no available grade to carry the water away. Many times I have had my crew dig out a catchment basin to hold the water and it's been highly effective.
@@iwastoldtherewouldbenomath6869 Good to know, I just figured eventually it's gunna fill up with dirt cuz dirt doesn't soak in...it builds up.
I used ABS (plastic) pipe so it's not perfectly straight. An 8ft level and constantly shading pipe with dirt is a must down in the 6" wide ditch. It has to be pretty straight at 2% grade (1/2" of fall every 4 ft). 2% grade is actually legal/adequate but it has to be cast iron...I hate cast iron. 40 years Master Plumber, Union, journeyman, Local 364 in SoCalif. Custom houses are my specialty....lots of remodel.
@@iwastoldtherewouldbenomath6869
"wrap the gravel around the pipe" meaning the gravel around the pipe not the pipe itself. I guess you have not taken differential equation.
I have 3" drain pipes installed in my patio also without any slop given to it and the run is about 79 or 80 feet long, including a section I am installing for the pipe to go out to my driveway which is slopped towards the street; I can in the future cut the cement and connect that pipe to the main drain pipe but not ready to pay for the cement cutter just yet, not until I have all the materials required for the project so my plan was to run the pipe out to the driveway underneath the slab allowing the rain water to just go dissipate in that area; we live in the desert and we do not see lot of rain here.
Very well explained good job
The fact that this guys use straight PVC pipe instated the corrugated pipe that many m a n y people use in the Atlanta metro area speaks volumes.
Nice work Boys , some great tips thanks for the Vid, was great help.
No problem 👍
Some towns have rules about how close to the road you can discharge. Example, no closer than ten feet. I think a danger of discharging below the sidewalk and into the road is that water can also travel from the road and into your pipe. Finally, at the end of the line, if water has to travel upward to discharge then debris can settle inside your line and clog it. In this case, anything getting into that drain at the door is going to travel to the low point and potentially settle and clog.
Smart fella right here
yes I love the 35 pipe I do not like those flexible pipe I also really like channel drain I really need to do this at my place when I get time or money to do so
Good job my man!
Thank you!
Nice job.
Thank you!
Brilliant Idea!
Wish you guys were in my area of Texas could sure use a system like this.
And a lot of money would be wasted. We have Clay as soil. It's pretty much like wet concrete. Once it dries, nothing is going through it
Nice, id still install a sump pump and have this as back up
Geez, old mate nearly put the demo saw into his toes... twice. Also, I agree with other comments about using ag and wrapping in geo fab. I guess if you're about to sell the house it'll be someone else's problem by the time it needs replacing again
Great job, looks great. The two foot down pipe wouldn’t work in my area too much clay in the soil. You have given some great ideas.
That 6" SDR35 repair coupling is not SCH80. 6" SCH80 has a pressure rating of 280psi. 6" SDR35 is 46psi. Either way it's fine. It's not going to crush and that's what matters.
"just like Gandalf..." hahaha, nice!
Kind of interesting that "drain rock" used like this reduces percolation because in a very short time dirt will come down the line and fill all the voids. Result is very rocky soil and water doesn't go through rock very fast.
I presume the rock is used to prevent larger objects from collecting and blocking the overall operation of the drain. The likelihood of the homeowner keeping all 3 drains clean is pretty low considering their yard condition.
Great video.
That was awesome.
I would recommend gutters as well that are run into the drain line.
thanks for a great video. how do you prevent the buildup of silt&clay&fine sand in the pvc? how do you keep the pipe from clogging up?
You can jet it from the top and then use a sucker truck at the bottom to suck out the silt. The pipe will silt up if there isn't sufficient cleansing velocity to push the sediment along the pipe.
you don't. Most of the time you would use a perforate type of line for just that reason. Unless there is a high flow rate, it will fill up eventually. But you can maintain a cleaner pipe from time to time with a high pressure hose and then cleaning out the catch basins and the out flow by the sidewalk. The other thing you can do is have some sort of screening on the high side catch basins to reduce the amount of sediment that enters. But you need to clean those often to prevent a clog at the initial entry point.
Thanks for the clear explanations.
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Good professional job.
Thank you!
BTW, great job considering the yards layout. Hopefully topsoil doesn't plug up the tony drain with seeer rock...
Nice. Excellent sound and narration too.
It may be a good idea to test before pouring concrete :)
It’s like a tiny, tiny soak away that instantly overwhelms and dumps water into the street. In the UK we would install a large underground soak away as dumping water onto the street is not allowed.
What did it look like at the catch basin when it was flowing over the sidewalk? If that point was higher than the catch basin I would imagine that the catch basin is flooded and overflowing too.
it shouldnt since he has created an incline, gravity will always keep the water flowing to the sidewalk.
What a beautiful job!
Tips or tricks on how to drain it into my neighbors yard without them noticing?
I want to ruin their garden.
Gandalf "you shall not pass!!" LMAO that earned a like and subscription brother NICE work.
Great info brother.
I like the 2' down pipe at the end of the run, to allow the pipe to eventually dry out. I'm going to add that to my system. BUT: he either failed to do so, or failed to mention, you NEVER dig anywhere, _especially_ near the front of the house, without first calling 811 to have them plot where all the utility lines are.
Damaging a utility line can cost 10s of thousands of dollars to fix (you get the bill). And that's if you survive hitting a gas or electrical feed. It's free, and the first thing you do. Don't ever assume you know where everything is, you don't! I have the entire neighborhood's 480V power grid feed running straight through my yard, on _my side_ of the sidewalk! Definitely not obvious, and definitely not something you want to "discover!"
What is the process when you call 811? Do they come out and show you where utility lines are or do they email you a mapping?
@@dross10001 For me, each local utility sent out a guy or two. It wasn't just one guy that did all the utilities at once. It took a couple days for them to all show up. They'll either spray paint and label (with the paint) where something is, or they'll stick a colored flag in the ground, or a series of flags to mark the entire length of a conduit or pipe. Each utility has their own color, I think it's yellow for electric, orange for gas, blue for water. Something else for cable. Then they'll advise you not to trust the marks down to the inch but to give them plenty of leeway on each side, like a foot or two. And they wouldn't stipulate the depth for me. My lines might be 2' down, or 3' or 6', I had/have no idea.
And if I remember right, they're not obliged to tell you where YOUR lines are, only theirs, up to the demarcation point. That point might be at your house, or at the street. Water guys only put a blue spray dot at the street. The cable guy put down a dozen flags all the way to my house. I imagine every utility in every town does it slightly differently, so this isn't a guide or anything, just what happened at my house.
I used a machine to dig some holes, but only a foot or so deep ( Iwas planting 40 plants to replace a lawn). That was pretty safe. When I had to go deeper for a tree, I only used the machine down about a foot, then did the rest by hand. I was very aware of what it would cost me if I hit a line (assuming I lived!), so the extra hand labor was worth the peace of mind. Not that you couldn't damage a line with a hand tool, but you go easy and slowly and hope for the best!
A friend of mine had a restaurant, and the business next door was having some work done. The excavator hit a gas line. It burned the entire restaurant down, and killed one of his employees. So you're not just risking the cost of repair to a gas line when you don't 811.
PS. I doubt very much they would ever email a plan. And you wouldn't want to accept it if they did. You know how that works: the plans say one thing, and then the original builder does whatever the heck he wants. So, yah, they'll send guys to your house and they'll use instruments to detect the actual lines. It's the only way to know for sure.
Thanks! Helpful ideas.
Good job.
That was pure Genius ! I never knew you could do it like that. Thank you for the video. I will definitely be able to use that idea soon.