How to blow out your sprinkler system Winterizing sprinkler irrigation
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2012
- How to blow out your sprinkler system
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303-255-5554 Winterizing sprinkler irrigation is very important in preventing freeze damage over the winter. Before the first freeze, it is important to blow out and winterize your sprinkler irrigation system. Landscaping tips.
1) Shut off the water valve inside the home that feeds the sprinkler irrigation system
2) Open the release valve with a flat head screwdriver to allow air inside the system
3) Hook up your air compressor (100psi) to the release valve and open the first valve to allow air into the fist zone.
4) Let the air push all or most of the water out of the sprinkler heads until only air is coming out.
5) Close the first valve and open the second valve.
6) Open each remaining valve one at a time to push all of the remaining water out of the lines.
7) Keep the 2 ball valves 3/4 open to allow any excess water to expand and escape if frozen.
8) Open the release valves at the bottom of the lines to release any remaining water
9) Cover the sprinkler system with insulation to prevent any freeze damage
Not all sprinkler systems are set up the same. Most sprinkler irrigation systems have different on and off valves. By following these step by step instructions, you should be able to blow out your sprinkler irrigation sytem on your own. If you need help, please feel free to leave a question in the comment box or give us a call today. Thanks for watching!
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Thanks for taking the time to walk us all through this subject. I'm from Phoenix (never need to do this in PHX0 and at I'm at my parents place in NE who are not able to do it themselves these days so it was up to me to get it done and this was very helpful. Thanks again for such a detailed vid, it was very helpful and probably saved us a bunch of money in repairs next spring!
Thank you!! My husband usually does this but he's deployed. I couldn't bring myself to pay somebody when we had the equipment to do it myself. My system is winterized thanks to you!
This is by far the best job at explaining the proper steps in winterizing an in-ground sprinkler system!!! Very well put together to hit on the necessary information while not adding so much commentary that you lose the average viewer!!! I recommend following this video if you're here to learn the right way!!!! Thank you for sharing this!!!
A excellent, informative video on winterizing the sprinkler system. Thank you for a great video made for some of us who are dummies.
I appreciate your video, it was really helpful. You did what my neighbors in 2 years haven't done. God bless.
thanks for the video - I lived in Denver (Castle Rock) for 15 years, and never had a problem using your method. The problem came in the spring, after the first nice warm week and I'd turn the system back on and then BOOOM 12 degrees at noon the next day and blew the top off the Febco - $$$$$
took a long time to learn to wait till after June 1st.
Currently working for a lawn irrigation company in new england as a service tech. I have run into situations where the poppet assembly inside the bell continues to leak while winterizing. What ive found is that your standard air compressor for tools may not be enough pressure to the poppet and allow air to flow to the system. Typically a trailer mount or truck mount is used because the pressure stays constant at 120-140 psi. Also...when blowing out, you want to blow out from the bottom test port blowing through the backflow totally. If you dont have access to the controller the valves ars the easiest option, however setting a 2 min test cycle on the controller not only assures the zone will be blown out, but all zones will be blown out equally, and you know the controller is functioning properly.
Once completed turn both ball valves to 45° angles allowing for no water (condensation) build up freezing and crackinv the casing around the valve.
Remember to unplug your controller. This will save $$ in the event a power surge occurs wiping out your program and mother board. Hunter PRO-C controllers are prone to this as well as older Rainbird /Rain Dial controllers.
@jeremy bordenca Good advice! I live in MA and have been chasing my guy for weeks to blow out the lines. With cold weather moving in, I will have to do this myself. From your comments, blowing through the Febco backflow valve at 120-140 PSI is NOT a problem, correct? I have a 2 gallon, 125 PSI compressor but I might need one with a bigger tank. In case I have to go buy one, what are the minimum specs that I need to do the job? Thanks!
Great job on the video... I am going to see if there's a place to add air to our commercial system at my job..but I dont think so. Ty so much
Very simple and consice, I drainned my system and did not experience any issues. Thanks.
Extremely useful. Thanks from a Stapleton resident.
You're very welcome and make sure to thank your husband for his services. We really appreciate that.
Awesome! I've been to San Diego/ Mission Beach several times. I love it. Must be nice to not have to winterize.
Thanks a lot, your video was the most informative I could find. Not an ad telling you that you need a professional. Thanks again for the great video and go Broncos
+Nathan Stewart Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video, thank you for sharing. Thanks to you, I was able to figure out that I needed to set my compressor to 80 PSI to kick open the back flow prey, once I did that, I quickly decreased to 40 PSI and sprinkler heads started popping with the sweet sound of water and air escaping. Cheers brotha!
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So easy to do thanks. All I had was two gallon tank but did job with patience
I’ve tried connecting to the spigot at the bottom of my system, but there wasn’t enough pressure to close the vacuum valve so I connected just like you show to one of the test valves and it worked fine.
Either the plastic has cracked from freeze damage which you can check by taking off the metal top and unscrewing the plastic or the o ring may be broke. Sometimes if you have to much air going through, you can tap on the metal top with a screw driver to make the seal inside. Try opening one of the valves before you hook the air up.
Excellent, thank you, New Jersey.
This video was incredibly helpful, and go Bronocs! One tip to add, make sure your compressor output is somewhere near 60 PSI to ensure the backflow preventer seals. I was struggling to connect my compressor to the backflow because the PSI was too low and it was blowing air through the top instead of sealing.
This was very helpful, thank you @Joel Matzdorf! I was having this exact problem
Underrated comment of the century
Thank you for including this valuable information in the comments! I was going to call a professional because I couldn't figure out what was going on.
Good tip. Also, 60 is about the magic number. The 100 mentioned in this video could damage irrigation components.
My backflow wouldn’t seal properly no mater what psi I used. I took off the cap and poured some water in it and then released the air into the system and got it to finally work.
Thanks for watching. Make sure to subscribe to our channel for more videos.
Before you opened your third valve, you had vented the ball valves. When you directed the camera back to the backflow preventer, the valves were in the open position. Shouldn't they remain vented (45degrees) until they are turned on in the spring? Also, I like to vent the ports as well, to prevent cracking.
There is no need to cover the pipes after they are completely blown out, as only freezing water inside the pipes will damage the parts. Good video. Many other systems will have the main shutoff outside buried and accessible via a box or tube.
Try tapping on the top of the backflow with the side of your screwdriver while air is going through. It's not sealing inside the housing. Also try turning air on and off a couple of times.
Your welcome. Glad I could help
You are very welcome. Make sure to subscribe to our channel to stay in touch for any of your landscaping or home improvement needs.
Thanks for comment. I've blown out several systems. You can push 100 psi without any damage, no problem. The way I'm doing it is correct and the lines are clear of water. The drain at the bottom was opened and water was released completely.
Great video. As another CO resident, i was struggling to get air pressure into the line but the backflow valve just kept girggling. Not making its way into the lines. What should i do?
Thanks for this useful how-to video.
Thank you for the video. We are scrambling for the time to have someone come out do the work for our condo. Long story short, I am about to get a compressor and do this work my own.
+Pete Agrawal Where do you live?
Chicago IL
Thank you for this video. I am assuming we should leave those 3 black sprinkler valves closed during the winter ? Also you said to leave the 2 knobs on the outside pipe 1/4 way closed and you do it, but in the end of the video they are completely closed.
Thank you for watching and thanks for the comment. Go Broncos!
First time home owners here. Learning fast. Why leave the valves halfway open? Thanks
Nice video. I have been watching a few of them now. The only thing that concerns me is that everyone else is say don't go over 80psi because it can cause damage to the pipes. Do you feel 80psi is adequate.
Very helpful and well-done video but I think something must be wrong with my backflow preventer as it makes a loud flapping noise and air is coming back out instead of going into the system. Any ideas?
Those they are having issues with air coming out of the bell top, I tried higher PSI and few other things which didnt work. What I ended up doing is turning the water on so it would seal then shut off the valve going to your house again. Dont open anything to lower the pressure then connect your air compressor(have 60psi built up) , open the valve where youre connected with your air and then start opening your zones. From that point, i left the air compressor on and shut off the zone to let the pressure build back up to 60 psi and opened the zone again, then next zone rinse and repeat till I finished. Last years Febco had some water and caused it crack. Took out the bell top, poppet & bonnet and put them in a plastic bag then taped underneath my sprinkler system this year. Figure better to put it inside where the rubber gaskets are not exposed to the cold.
Try tapping on the top of the metal housing with a screw driver or something. It just need to seal before the air will travel through the lines.
Thanks for the video, Damon! I have a shop compressor that I use for nailers and such. Is the CFM super important to get the water out? I'm not confident I got enough out of the lines using my compressor. It's a Porter Cable C3101 150 PSI 4.3 Gallon compressor. It says I have 7.1 SCFM Air Delivery.
Thank you!
i just wanted to say that when I just did my sprinkler system I used only a 1 gallon compressor and it worked fine. I didn't really need any pressure. Just connected it turned it on and went from zone to zone until I got air. Used hardly any pressure at all.
You can get a 5-6 gallon compressor with 150 max psi and use about 50-100 psi depending on your irrigation set up.
Damon, I appreciate this great video. I had 2 questions actually:
1 - I keep reading a lot of "How tos" that mention not to blow compressed air through the vacuum breaker, but it looks like that is how you demonstrate. Is it really now that big of a deal as long as you don't have the pressure too high?
2- I live in Denver area and the other night it got very cold so I turned off water and removed the vacuum breaker. Does the line/backflow need to be pressure sealed again before blowing out?
If there are two valves on the backflow, you need to make sure the other is closed. Try tapping on the top of the backflow with the side of your screwdriver while air is going through.
Thank you very much!!! Very easy to follow!!!
You can install ball valves at the end of each station and open them at blow out time and get 100% of the water out.
This is true only if the sprinkler heads have been tapped into a single line without long side branches. Unfortunately, most design systems have long side branches going to 1 or more sprinkler heads. Not only is this undesirable because you cannot blow out the entire line by opening a single ball valve at the end, it is also undesirable because any breaks in the line that are repaired often get some dirt into the system, which will plug up the sprinkler heads. Being able to wash out this dirt by opening a single ball valve instead of having to unscrew the spray heads on all heads to get all the dirt out, is another advantage against using long side branches to spray heads.
Thanks for the info. Go Broncos!!!
Seemed to work well, thank you!
Your welcome!
There were two valves where you connected compressor. Does it matter which one you used (top or bottom)? Also, what is that plastic ring hanging from one of the valves?
Having the removable backflow device is against code in some cities. Some people are removing the device, then installing a straight pipe in place to increase pressure on a poorly designed system because backflow devices create pressure loss. Check with your local/state officials before removing your device. In TX you must have a license to re-install a device.
Nice video, I watched it last year before winterizing and am watching it again to prep for this winter. I don't think you mentioned it but I think you should close the hand valve between the compressor fitting and house to keep pressure from going into the supply line, right? Thanks
Thanks for the comment and please share the video!
made it look simple,thanks
Thanks for watching and sharing!
If you have a drain valve below the valves, you can open it and it will drain. You should be able to hook up air though the back flo.
It won't hurt to run it higher closer to 100 psi. You should be able to push most of the water out that way. Thanks for watching our videos!
Well done.
THanks for posting this. I had a question. I live in Castle Rock and was wondering what level of air pressure you'd recommend. I've heard anywhere from 50psi to your 100 psi. I guess I can start at 50 and move up. Thanks
thanks for helping God Bless
#1This is how we do it all the time.
#2 You do not have to pressure seal. Once the air pushes the remaining water through the lines, just keep supply off and insulate the exposed irrigation above the ground.
You can use either as long as the one you hook up to is open and the other is closed.
Every backflow manufacturer I know of says NEVER blow the air through the backflow. It can damage the seals and other parts in it.
Mikedoc52 ive been in the irrigation industry for quite some time here in massachusetts. 90% of the backflows i have serviced or seen, have all had either a 1/2" or 3/4" draw off ( similar to boiler drain) installed before the backflow itself to serve as a spigot for homeowner use. We also use the very same spigot for hose connection during winterization. Most of our compressors are tow behind or skid mount and the backflows seem to hold up rather quite well after countless winterizations. Obviously there is the occassional one that falls fault to damage, but its been after a homeowner turned the system on and failed to close the ballvalves to prevent water flow back into an already winterized system. Watts and Febco backflows are what we have been using as well.
I have backflow preventers just proximal to each solenoid, I believe in the design of "atmospheric vacuum breakers", with no test ports. Of course they are the highest point of each sprinkler zone, about a foot above ground level. If I can't blow through those, how do I clear the system of water? Is there any way to test those devices?
Thank you for the video. Last weekend I did my sprinkler system like this for the first time. In the past I’ve had a friend come do it. For some reason the plastic piece inside the backflow preventer didn’t want to seal and was leaking air leaving little pressure at the heads. I was told to set the pressure regulator at 40psi. I ended up raising it to 60psi. Was I not using enough pressure?
My backflow wouldn’t seal properly no mater what psi I used. I took off the cap and poured some water in it and then released the air into the system and got it seal and finally work.
nice video...thanks
Ok thanks! Does procedure always require a person to have and use a flat head screwdriver?
I have a Fabco 765-1. if I try and use the top test valve, the compressed air flows out of the bell. If I try and use the bottom, it sounds like a Bronx cheer. I am using 40psi. Should I increase the pressure to increase the flow rate? Or does this mean rebuild the 765-1.
I have a question, I connected to the water spigot below, run through the first zone and then paused to give compressor time to recharge. When I switched to zone 2, nothing happens now, except the back prevention valve makes a noise like air is letting air escape. What am I missing? I used 40-50 PSI for the first zone and worked fine.
Would this also work to blow out water out of a baseboard heating system? I have 3 zones in a house and want to empty 2 of them to I dont have to heat the building.,
Thank you!
Thanks for the video regarding winterization of a lawn sprinkler system. I am trying to determine what the specifications would be for the compressor. Any adice you may give me would be greatly appreciated. My system is also a six zone system.
Thanks,
Rich
+Rich Spak Rich. I use a small compressor with 80-120 psi. It dose not take much presure to blow the water out. Each zone may need about 20-30 seconds of constant air presure to remove most of the remaining water. Hope that helps!
My pancake compressor does the trick. 60 psi is all you really need. Any higher and you risk damaging the system.
what if there are more than one compressor type fittings on the blow out preventer
What adapter did you screw on there? Those threads look funny on mine. And how big was your compressor?
My vacuum breaker looks like yours. When I connect the compressor to the top relief port, I get a steady wooshing sound. Didn't hear that with yours.
From DGO, CO-GO BRONCOS!
Depends on what your irrigation is set up with. I always use and recommend 80 - 100 psi no damage.
What is the part # or manafacturer for the piece that attaches to valve and compressor? Can’t find 1 online at all. Thx.
When I hook up the air with the zones closed the air comes out the top of the pressure valve, why isn’t the valve holding pressure?
One more question for you if you have time. I blew all my zones out, main shutoff is closed. All of the sprinklers were blowing air and no water. Having not done it before I blew each zone 2 or 3 times to make sure. My problem is that there is quite a bit of water in the bottom of the Rainbird rotors. Is that normal? Should I suck it all out with my Shop Vac? Being in Durango, CO with all the rain we have had, I was thinking that could have been the source. Thanks for your help.
+Nathan Stewart You should have a valve you can open that is lower then the manifold. If you open this valve after everything is shut down, it will drain the rest of the water.
What if you have air coming from the round thing at the top of that valve?
What is the lower fitting for? The one just under where you hooked up the Air hose? Thanks
+Christopher Aynes You can just keep the other one closed. You don't need it in the blow out.
Would my 160 psi 6 gal pancake compressor work for this? I have a 4 zone system
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
My system has the blow out port after the backflow preventer and a ball valve after that. Is there any reason to not reverse the blowout port and ball valve?
If I have or hear air coming from the ball valve and it looks like it’s broken. Does that mean I won’t be able to get air into the system? And is that valve and easy repair? Thank you.
There are 2 ports on the system. You connected your air compressor line to the top one. Q1: Why is the lower port not used? Q2: Do I leave those ports open or closed after the air is removed? Informative video. Thanks, Mike
+Mike Scerbo You don't need the other valve for the blow out. Keep the valves 3/4 open to allow any air or water to escape over the winter.
Question my system wasn't used this year should I still blow it out?
Any compressor that will hold 80-100psi while your blowing it out.
Whenever I tried to winterize through either of the two test ports on the backflow preventer, all of the air comes out through the backflow preventer, not through the sprinkler system. Any ideas?
You should also mention not to pressurize the system at the full 90-100 psi. Something like 30-40 psi would be much safer for the plastic in the ground. Same goes for the sprinkler heads themselves, especially the ones that move. Without water they will be burning up without the lubrication and cooling that the liquid provides.
Can someone recommend what connector i can use for petcock fitting for connecting it to compressor ?
Done!
What size compressor tank is reasonable? I have only three zones - 6000 sq ft property, about 2/3 is irrigated. Thanks!!!
I watched 3 different videos, and got 3 different PSI recommendations. 60, 80 and 100.
Try CPS for old parts for your irrigation.
How often should a person blow out or winterize thier system?
Thx
Thank you from New Jersey .
Can you show us the compressor you used?
Nice job, and Go Broncos
I was getting the whooshing sound through the vacuum breaker and a couple taps with the screwdriver sealed it up and I proceeded through the stations with success. I later tried to do a second round and could not get the vacuum breaker to seal no matter where or how many times I tapped. Do you think I might need to replace it? Also...I have one drip station...it does not twist nor look like the other watering station tops. Do these drip stations blow out differently? Thanks for a great video!
I had the same problem, which was that the component of the back-flow valve was not sealing not matter how much pressure I applied. I found the solution. Remove the nut keeping the brass cover on, and then remove the brass cover and set it aside. I then used a screwdriver to gently pull up on the sliding plastic part which creates a seal when water or air is passed through the system. I found that helping it up a bit and then applying the air pressure it would seal itself, and voula, air and water started properly draining through my zones.
Hello, I see some people commenting on how they leave a bucket inside on the shut off valve to catch excess water in the winter? If you leave open the valves for each zone this wouldn't be needed would it?
Thanks,
Doug
Exactly! Drain all of the water out and you wont need to leave it.
I haven't done a thing to my sprinkler system...it's currently midnight and about 30 degrees outside. If I get to the system tomorrow, will it already be too late? The low is supposed to be 29 degrees. Thanks. You probably won't see this until tomorrow anyway :)
Broncos fan💪💪💪
Connecting to the PVB Test Cocks and using 100psi. Those are the TOP 2 things everyone tells you not to do.