I just changed the lower front motor mount and found it to be a very simple operation. My neighbor, a BMW mechanic, came over and helped so we were able to get it done in about a half hour. We already knew that the rear lower motor mount was in tact so all we had to do was replace the front one. We jacked up the motor by the transmission housing, rather than the oil pan, but we took your advice and used a block of wood to distribute the load over a wider area. We loosened the nut on the rear mount because we wanted to jack the engine up high enough that we could remove the front mount without having to remove the bracket. We didn't have to loosen the cradle bolts or loosen anything on the side mount, but we did end up removing all the bolts that hold that front lower mounting bracket in place. I guess to do it even more efficiently than what we did, you could remove both the upper and lower nuts from that front motor mount. We instead removed all 3 of the bolts that held the bracket in place along with the additional bolt that holds the refrigerant line, and then I had to hold the mount in place while he removed that upper nut. It would have been easier to remove that nut while the bracket was still attached to the engine. Anyway, once we had the mount and the bracket floating freely within the frame, we removed the mount while leaving the bracket floating around in there. It was very easy to extract the old damaged mount by pulling it up and out the hood. We then lowered the replacement mount through the same path and sat it in place. We then aligned the mounting bracket and started reattaching the bolts that hold it to the engine. We then reattached the nuts that hold the mount to the mounting bracket, but then had to worry about whether the key was aligned correctly. We suspect that the one I had the shop install back in December of 2014 was aligned incorrectly, which led to its very short lifespan. The metal plate at the top of the mount was sheared in half, rather than the rubber splitting as one would expect. So anyway, we had to apply pressure from below to make sure the key pin aligned with the mounting bracket, and after we were convinced that they were aligned, we lowered the motor so that we could tighten the top and bottom bolts on the mount. I then tightened the bold back on the rear lower mount while my neighbor reattached the refrigerant line to the mounting bracket, and then we added a bread tie to restrain the wiring harness that runs through there to the starter motor. All in all, I think it took the 2 of us about a half hour. I suspect one could change the rear lower mount through a similar approach!
Thanks this helped me with some questions. The front motor mount was the reason my top radiator hose kept coming off and eventually breaking the plastic connection.
Good look. Between this and another video I was able to knock this out. Only critique I would offer is removing the bolts completely from the top motor mount. If you jack it up too high, you'll break it.
I’m asking you how do you remove the starter and the locations of the bolts. I’ve removed the motor mount like you, and is continuing to my starter. Thanks for your reply.
I want to say yes, because I think that the bracket that it bolts to is in the way. But im not 100 percent sure. only time I removed the starter was when I removed the whole motor and trans and I had the whole front end of the car off
Thanks for getting back to me. I really appreciate it. I think I’m going to jack it up higher to take it out from the bottom and reinstall from bottom. It’s just too hard to do it from the top without your back going out.
Hello, I may need some help on trying to take out that same motor mount, it broke and ripped just like your, how did you manage to remove it.... I am having difficulty with the situation. Please help if you see this
Andre Myrie did you or have you changed the transmission mount? I got a kit with four mounts. The fourth is the tranny mount. Haven't dug into it yet, but if you have any words of wisdom, i sure would appreciate it.
@@jamesr.williams2657 sorry for the late response, the tranny mount is by far the easiest of them all. 2 bolts, just support the motor with light pressure and pop the new one on. It was that easy for me
andre why is there no video on how to change the back mount or is it called the the right mount?i ask cuz i am doing it now and i would like to see a video to help me out...
I'd say yes, I suggest getting a couple different sized pry bars to help get the job done. My car is in pieces right now so if I find time, I'll upload a video
You are big time wrong about the statement that the motor mounts on the Pacifica tend to fail. It all depends how you handle your vehicle over its lifetime. Of course they will go bad when you don’t pay attention or don’t care what holes in the road you hit all the time. Drive with your eyes open and try to avoid bad roads and you mounts will last. I have my 2005 from brand new and never needed to replace any of my motor mounts. No, it’s not me being lucky, it’s me carrying about my vehicle.
Michelle Trefon that is very possible, when the front one is bad, you can check it by placing your foot very firmly on the brake, putting it into drive and pressing the gas while your foot is still on the brake, you will see the motor roll backwards towards you from the drivers seat in most cases. Or you could have a spotter to confirm that. Also the front mount is easy to get to, to look at/ feel around it to feel for breaks or cracks etc.
I just changed the lower front motor mount and found it to be a very simple operation. My neighbor, a BMW mechanic, came over and helped so we were able to get it done in about a half hour.
We already knew that the rear lower motor mount was in tact so all we had to do was replace the front one. We jacked up the motor by the transmission housing, rather than the oil pan, but we took your advice and used a block of wood to distribute the load over a wider area. We loosened the nut on the rear mount because we wanted to jack the engine up high enough that we could remove the front mount without having to remove the bracket. We didn't have to loosen the cradle bolts or loosen anything on the side mount, but we did end up removing all the bolts that hold that front lower mounting bracket in place. I guess to do it even more efficiently than what we did, you could remove both the upper and lower nuts from that front motor mount. We instead removed all 3 of the bolts that held the bracket in place along with the additional bolt that holds the refrigerant line, and then I had to hold the mount in place while he removed that upper nut. It would have been easier to remove that nut while the bracket was still attached to the engine.
Anyway, once we had the mount and the bracket floating freely within the frame, we removed the mount while leaving the bracket floating around in there. It was very easy to extract the old damaged mount by pulling it up and out the hood. We then lowered the replacement mount through the same path and sat it in place. We then aligned the mounting bracket and started reattaching the bolts that hold it to the engine. We then reattached the nuts that hold the mount to the mounting bracket, but then had to worry about whether the key was aligned correctly. We suspect that the one I had the shop install back in December of 2014 was aligned incorrectly, which led to its very short lifespan. The metal plate at the top of the mount was sheared in half, rather than the rubber splitting as one would expect. So anyway, we had to apply pressure from below to make sure the key pin aligned with the mounting bracket, and after we were convinced that they were aligned, we lowered the motor so that we could tighten the top and bottom bolts on the mount. I then tightened the bold back on the rear lower mount while my neighbor reattached the refrigerant line to the mounting bracket, and then we added a bread tie to restrain the wiring harness that runs through there to the starter motor. All in all, I think it took the 2 of us about a half hour.
I suspect one could change the rear lower mount through a similar approach!
i have not been able to find a good detailed video on doing an engine swap. this video showed alot that will help with that. thank you
Thank you for this video!!! This is a HUGE help for my husband to fix my car issue himself. Saves us huge bucks and tons of unneeded frustration.
Thanks this helped me with some questions. The front motor mount was the reason my top radiator hose kept coming off and eventually breaking the plastic connection.
Thank you for your video, thanks to you I was able to do my motor mounts.
Sincerely Miguel Cordero.
Thank you.
Will change all 4 mounts next week
Very helpful video
Thanks!
Thanks for this video , i wasn't sure I could do this but watching this has helped huge
Great vid man, thanks for uploading it helped me a lot.
Great video. Easy to follow. Gives socket sizes needed. Thank you.
You did this the hard way dude. You don't need to drop the sub frame. Hope you had your car aligned when you finished!
i didnt totally drop the engine cradle, i just loosened the front to add more clearance.
Good look. Between this and another video I was able to knock this out.
Only critique I would offer is removing the bolts completely from the
top motor mount. If you jack it up too high, you'll break it.
I took mine completely out. I would recommend it
you guys are very welcome for the help!
you are welcome. Mr. zubov, I am about Ready to change both the front and rear again here soon myself.
So soon??! Seems like those two hydraulic not strong enough (
Been driving around on a broken one. Now the radiator has massive crack at the hose connection!
Thanks for the video. How would you take the starter out before?
are you asking how to remove the starter, or if I had to remove it for the motor mount?
I’m asking you how do you remove the starter and the locations of the bolts.
I’ve removed the motor mount like you, and is continuing to my starter.
Thanks for your reply.
Do you have to remove the motor mount to get to the starter? I just thought it’s not as hard from the top.
I want to say yes, because I think that the bracket that it bolts to is in the way. But im not 100 percent sure. only time I removed the starter was when I removed the whole motor and trans and I had the whole front end of the car off
Thanks for getting back to me. I really appreciate it. I think I’m going to jack it up higher to take it out from the bottom and reinstall from bottom. It’s just too hard to do it from the top without your back going out.
Hello, I may need some help on trying to take out that same motor mount, it broke and ripped just like your, how did you manage to remove it.... I am having difficulty with the situation. Please help if you see this
Thanks, this vídeo really helped.
Do you have to take the cradle bolts completely out I can see and feel the bolt but I can't get it to drop down to put the but on it
Does the car seem or feels like its shaking or jerking when you get one that goes bad?
yes sometimes between changing gears or shifting into park or drive or reverse
+Andre Myrie Thank you for the quick reply and info! I'll be working on this issue this weekends. =(
Can you drive a 2004 chrysler pacifica with side motor mount bracket broke at bottom
Thanks bud! This is helpful.
James Williams not a problem man, glad to help
Andre Myrie did you or have you changed the transmission mount? I got a kit with four mounts. The fourth is the tranny mount. Haven't dug into it yet, but if you have any words of wisdom, i sure would appreciate it.
@@jamesr.williams2657 sorry for the late response, the tranny mount is by far the easiest of them all. 2 bolts, just support the motor with light pressure and pop the new one on. It was that easy for me
andre why is there no video on how to change the back mount or is it called the the right mount?i ask cuz i am doing it now and i would like to see a video to help me out...
did any of you all have problems with bagging up when in reverse prior to changing the motor mounts
will the trans come out thru bottom or top
WOULD ANYONE KNOW HOW MUCH A SHOP WILL CHARGE IF I WERE TO TAKE IT IN? I drive a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica AWD
Thanks you
I'm get a clunk when I apply the breaks but nothing when I accelerate.....could that be a motor mount....
Likely culprit is the control arm bushings, that's what remedied this when I had the issue. I just put on two new control arms
@@andremyrie2944 is that an easy job one can do themself
I'd say yes, I suggest getting a couple different sized pry bars to help get the job done. My car is in pieces right now so if I find time, I'll upload a video
@@andremyrie2944 👍
pero como son las bases de soported de arriba
Thanks!
You are big time wrong about the statement that the motor mounts on the Pacifica tend to fail. It all depends how you handle your vehicle over its lifetime. Of course they will go bad when you don’t pay attention or don’t care what holes in the road you hit all the time. Drive with your eyes open and try to avoid bad roads and you mounts will last. I have my 2005 from brand new and never needed to replace any of my motor mounts. No, it’s not me being lucky, it’s me carrying about my vehicle.
Wait another year his is an 04 and the mile have alot to do with it as well so why even wright the dump sht you posted
👍
why does the motor mount always gets me started up?
Hey so when the motor mounts are bad, does it cause the clunking when shifting to reverse and stuff.
Michelle Trefon that is very possible, when the front one is bad, you can check it by placing your foot very firmly on the brake, putting it into drive and pressing the gas while your foot is still on the brake, you will see the motor roll backwards towards you from the drivers seat in most cases. Or you could have a spotter to confirm that. Also the front mount is easy to get to, to look at/ feel around it to feel for breaks or cracks etc.
you remove the transmission from the bottom.
Mnmkj