1998 Chevy K1500 5.7 stalling rough idle loss of power. Please like and sub. UPDATE IN DESCRIPTION
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- • WHAT IN THE WORLD IS W...
The truck turns off while in idle. turns off at low speeds when making a turn and applying the breaks. 2000+ rpm when starting then slowly coming down. while driving on the high way she jerks like she has loss of fuel for split seconds at a time.
new fuel filter
new fuel pump
new plugs and wires
new cap and rotor
new egr valve
new mass airflow sensor
new air filter
new idle control valve
new throttle position sensor
new torque converter
new belt
new pulley
new tensioner pulley
intake gaskets recently replaced
new oil and oil filter ever 3 months.
new battery
#truck #viral #viralvideo #video #trending #trend #usa #america #american #chevy #silverado #blue #broken #brokenheart #love
It's your grounds. These old GMT 400 chevys had terrible, terrible ground straps. the passenger side one running from the firewall to the rear of the cylinder head would fall apart because it would just sit on top of the exhaust headers. Terrible design, but it's the only thing you said you haven't replaced and it is the most common failure point of these trucks.
I’m having the same issue. It’s been going on for a few months now. I’ve always worked on my 94 myself, but this time I had to take it to a mechanic. The 2 times I took it, they said nothing was wrong. They said I just need to drive it, and not worry about it. But 3/4 of the time, I can’t keep it running. I told them it may be normal for these new vehicles to shut off at the red light, but not for a 30 year old vehicle. I’m sure the gas that’s produced these days are poison to the older vehicles. And something else I’ve realized, the factory sensors that lasted 100,000+ miles, when replaced, you’ll be lucky to go 20,000 miles before having to replace it again. Even AC Delco parts. Everything made today is so cheaply made, but cost twice as much.
You are 100% correct. The fact that everything in my truck is OEM and over 20+ mechanics in two years have no idea only shows me that the parts and mechanics are both cheaply made 🤣🤣🤣
My 99 tahoe runs like a damn champ. I had to re do the intake gasket. New plugs, oil change, the previous owner took really good care of it
Have you checked for a vacuum leak? My booster on my old 98 2500 had a small crack in one of the hoses causing a leak, once I replaced tge hose this stopped for me.
Idle control sensor
@@Salty_Kraken have you changed your oxygen sensor
Check out the crank position sensor it will cause it to run rough. The distributor cap and rotor can cause the truck to stall. Stay away from aftermarket parts I have found they cause more problems stay with original parts.
you are right. Stay away from aftermarket parts
Check fuel regulator for your injectors. Also check your injectors make sure you have a good spray pattern and not a drip drip.
Check the wiring harness, it’s to close to the front drive shaft and gets rubbed. You’ll see it touching the front drive shaft when you get underneath, just separate and repair those wires.
I got similar issue. I thought I had bad luck. Then I read all these comments. U win
Start at battery. Work your way through whole vehicles and clean all grounds or replace faulty ground straps. Then voltage regulator. Pressurized cooling system and if doesn't hold its intake gasket. Do spider injection and intake gasket. Replace distributor too. Check all sensors.
Your brake booster looks really old. Pull the line off the check valve and put your finger over the line so it doesn't have a vacuum leak and see if it fixes it. Your brake booster could be leaking and causing the issue.
When you applied the brake it stalls out, then you have a vacuum leak from the Brake Booster, replace your brake booster and clean your throttle body.
Mines was doing the same thing and I had recently changed the wires. Some reason I was otw home and it started bogging out. Didn’t wanna stay idling at low rpm and had the floor it. I changed the wires and plug the the best they had and mine been fine since. If not get a multimeter and check the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
All of that's already been done. Ac Delco
I had a issue with my 99 suburban wherey ignition failed and was causing things like this. Eventually it got to a point where i lost my fuel pump guage and ecm all at once. Changed new pump. All fuses and got almost all issuesues fixed. Eventually found the starter connections slightly loose. Cleaned everything grounding spots i could find.. cleaned andd tightened it and everything has been great aince
The wiring under the dashboard going outside can have a loose connection on a red wire and it will cause this problem as well. Hopefully you don't still have the problem with it now.
Grounds. One is beneath the evaporator. Goes to rear of motor and another to the frame. Replace them. Also, distributor bushings may be worn and there is play as the shaft is turning. Replace the distributor. Do not use a cheap replacement distributor unless you want to replace it again in a year.
same problem but i can add to it. i spent 6,000.00 at the repair shop and while they did fix things, the issue persists. the best help was the idle and throttle control valves. besides that i also replaced all new grounds, new crank sensor, new camshaft position sensor, new ignition control module, new ignition coil, new ignition. checked the passlock ignition module, and the fuel cut off switch associated with it. I believe my issue is bad fuel related and i recommend following the fuel pressures and trims to make sure its staying up where it needs to be under load and at rest. I also noticed that when stopping at a red light, shifting to neutral helps it from stalling and bucking when stopped. we have to have the knowledge to verify especially with the parts we are getting today. just because its replaced doesn't mean you cant get 3 bad parts in a row like my cam and crank sensors and 3 ignition coil / module combo's were bad all from different places. i didn't even bother removing the old one's, just strapped it down next to it using the head bolt lolz
I HAD THE EXACT SAME ISSUE AND DID THE SAME AS YOU!! lol brother I had the exact same issue. It was the Ignition control module in the distributor. I replaced everything for peace of mind but the actual issue was the ICM and I see that is the only thing you dont seem to have replaced. If I were you I would replace that and also go through the process of resetting the IAC and stuff and double and triple check for ANY vacuum leaks after your finished. I couldnt turn the steering wheel or put it in gear without it dying. I had to be on the throttle to keep it running. My issue was identical to yours brother.
It's been in the shop for 2 weeks and they can't figure it out. I talked with them Friday and they aren't charging me anything because they are puzzled. According to them they've checked everything electrical under the hood.
Weird man my 87 started that up and down idle crap and now she has been out of commission for a year and still trying to fix it. My newest clue is a blown head gasket do to the fact of some white smoke i did all the work on my chevy except the new transmission. This is all the work i've done-Distributor+cap+rotor-Ignition coil-Spark plugs-spark plug cables-EGR valve-IAC valve-Starter-battery cables-Battery-Electronic spark control module-knock sencor-Fuel filter- fuel tank+sending unit-fuel pressure regulator+housing+injectors-Vacuum lines-timing chain and gears.
Any answers
@@dominickbuenaflor7523 no. We replace the computer security module new extra strength battery completely replaced every known sensor and checked all grounds. I live down in Florida now and have dealerships and other mechanics completely stumped. I'm stumped. I'm about to yeet it into a bog and set it ablaze. Curiosity puts me $9.6k in the hole
@@Salty_Kraken don't do that we have to beat Chevy they somehow have flipped some switch that has caused all of our cars to do this. This is crazy we all have the same problem and all of our mechanics are stumpt
Spider injection system gives a bunch of guys problems. Fuel pumps too. Of the gas tank has never been dropped, it's worth it to check the fuel hose on top of the fuel pump as they can get hairline cracks which are hard to notice. Connections inside get corroded sometimes, this can cause all sorts of problems also makes your gas gauge inaccurate.
Check your throttle positioning sensor located on the side of your throttle body there's two sensors side-by-side on your throttle body
There is a wiring harness underneath the drivers side dashboard that has a red wire that comes loose creating heat because it is not a good connection. This will cause the problem. You can unbolt it and look for heat discoloration. Like I said its the red wires on yhe bottom right side normally. I think that they never had the red wire harness completely plugged in on it in the first place. It just takes time before it starts to short out and get hot, causing the problem. I have also seen bad fuel pumps directly from the factory. So just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. Check the fuel pressure on the Schrader valve underneath the hood on the driver's side. Should be 55-60 psi to run. Should be closer to 60 psi to run correctly. Also it could be the fuel pressure regulator under the intake manifold that is the cause of your problem. Hopefully this helps some of you to find out what is going on with your 5.7 vortex Chevy. Good luck 🍀!
@jsharp1776 ill check the red wire. Fuel pressure is 60psi
@@Salty_KrakenThere are 2 of those red wires side by side. You'll notice that the plastic is turning a tan or brown from the heat. Good luck!
Going thru the same thing, I seen a video where a guy removed the egr and sprayed up in the port holes and used a wire on a drill, i haven't tried it yet but thats next,,,,no ebay parts👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾 CHANGE COIL AND MOD, SPIDER INJECTOR,MAKE SURE INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET NOT LEAKING OR EGR GASKET LEAKING...BY THE TIME I FIGURED MINE OUT 🤔🤔🤔NEW TRUCK 😂😂😂OH YOU MIGHT NEED A WHOLE NEW DISTRIBUTOR
Also check your main grounds like the block strap. Also make sure the alternator is charging, if you’re too low on voltage it can cause issues with your ignition system
Fuel pressure regulator inside the intake.
Ck the ignition module. Pull the distributor cap and it should be visible. Sometimes if it is replaced and the dielectric grease is not used the module can get too warm and cause driveability issues
I changed most everything you did except the fuel pump and the torque converter, and not sure about the filter, but the same with everything else, mine was idling up to 2000 rpms and just got tired of fighting with it. I took it to the dealer, they said they cleaned the throttle intake, I sprayed it didn't do any good, I'm not sure if they took it completely off and soaked it, but it runs normal now.
@@user7xz38v4 mine has something to do with 2 red wires under the steering column going into the fire wall. Wire is burned from a security feed going to the key column.
If i was you id replace the engine temperature sensor. It actually controls fuel regulation based on engine temp. It might have failed a funny way, totally worth a shot
i know it is too late but i had almost the same problem on Yukon 96 5.7 SLE just from 2 days, as long as this stall in the idle situation, so it has to be with the idle sensor itself maybe there is other factors, but i changed the idle sensor and every thing turn to be fine, put another one and make sure that the one you have is working properly, by the way i bought my Yukon newly, i changed the Crankshaft sensor and the TPS and the MAF and MAP before and they didn't solve this problem but other problems relate to each part function
My 97 started doing this today I replaced distributor,cap,rotor,plugs,wires,coil,TPS,iac,spider,injectors. I noticed when I unplug my maf sensor it idles perfectly fine
Have checked the TPS...check your pigtails also...my 94 had several connectors that were age brittle and broken. The symptoms your truck is having is familiar...I would say TPS.
@@dale3990 that's been replaced
@@Salty_KrakenDid you reset the ECM to clear the error codes?
@dale3990 yes. The shop it's been at for a year just gave up. I'm towing it back home tomorrow
My 88 was doing the exact same thing. I replaced the water temperature sensor that talks with the ECM. That's the 2 wire sensor beside the neck in the intake. She runs like a sewing machine again
I just did that on my truck and it still stalled out. Any other suggestions?
Test the fuel pressure and it is either your fuel filter or does your fuel pressure regulator. Had the same issue turned out it was vacuum throwing off the fuel pressure regulator
You have to reset your icu because of the tbs sensor replacement!
Same with my 95..still haven't figured it out
Be nice to have more information like, Live data stream of the fuel trims, 02 sensor switching, MAF sensor reading and so on. A lot of cheap scan tools can provide this vital information. Without live data it is imposable to diagnose over the internet.
hopefully i can provide this
Ive got the same issue on my 97 except you have to floor it to keep it running when it starts to die.
My exact problem w my 97 right now. Just changed starter never had that problem before.
@@jaceharrison3841 So far I've found that my camshaft position sensor is junk. New one hasn't come in yet so I don't know if its the only problem but Id recommend checking yours.
@@tranquility7692 did this work for you ?
@@jaydenbristol3021 Nope it was the coil and the coil driver/ignition control module
I have a 96 gmc 1500, was driving on hwy reved up to 4 grand stalled woulded start again, low to no oil pressure, now revs fluctuates put in gear stalls. Changed oil pump and oil pressure sensor, timing chain, new distributor cab rotor. Im going to check the fly wheel tomorrow. What ever this problem is seems to be a common problem that no one can figure out.
Try icm under distributor cap mine did same runs great now! Dont for get the past!
Gone pissed when he finds out it's probably just a fuse ... I have a 99 suburban ended up being grounds .. blowing the eng-I fuse over and over cleaned all grounds and it hasn't happened since... controls maf... crankshaft and camshaft sensors
I was having similar problems with my '97 K1500 5.7 vortec and topping it all off I was having to replace distributor cap and rotor at least once a year due to it stop running altogether and after about the 4th time of that it dawned on me that every time I swapped caps I had to work around the A/C lines going from compressor to accumulator/dryer so I thought maybe condensation was running of those lines onto distributor cap so I got some foam pipe insulation and foil tape then when I replaced cap and rotor I placed the pipe insulation on both A/C lines and wrapped them with foil tape to seal up any drippage that may have been occuring. That fixed my rough running no power issue although I still have to replace cap and rotor but now it is only about every two years.
Guys, check to see if your egr is bad but go one step further, ..check underneath the egr valve to see if the port leading to the egr is plugged full of carbon...hammer and small punch will be needed to chip the carbon out of the port
Did this already. Replaced the egr. Wire snake and vacuum to stick up anything to prevent engine contamination.
Then you got same issue I do catalytic converter ones clogged..bet
I know one that most people overlook, try replacing your knock sensor. It will make your truck run like crap..
Ours was doing that and I replaced the idle control valve and it changed it but didn’t fix it , the intake was leaking, fixed that , which made it better , I put a different idle control valve in it and the second one fixed it , dam Chinese parts!
something what i had go on was that there's a Sencer on top of the intake where the top radiator hose goes to that was going bad on my 1996 chevy you can try that
Control module In distributer. $30.00 part . Two screws done. Module is were wires plug into distributer. Ps: a bad cap and button can do it also.
Already replaced. Brand new distributor and cap and rotor
Check the power wire going from fuse block under hood too the battery thats most likely the problem they get build up inisde the wire that you cant se
I have a 98 k2500 it’s happened twice only on the freeway but I lose horsepower when I accelerate and get up in the 60’s it felt like my transmission wasn’t switching to high gear to accelerate and I had the gas pedal floored i could only manage to get up to 50 MPH
kinda having similar issues your having and have pretty much changed and done eveythibg youve done too, im having a valve leak at the top of spider and apperently when you put the upgrade spider in you have to change out the bracket that holds the spider, HK9 is part number. i just bought it from rockauto and hopeully it will fix it. after i changed egr thats when i really noticed vacuum leak on spider
I just got the truck back from the shop and it's a security issue with the multi switch in the steering column cutting the fuel pump.
that is interesting , you mind posting an update of that
@@Nicks_Garagee yeah your multi function switch is crazy. All electrical activity goes through it. Can cause a huge bunch of issues
@@Salty_Kraken first week front calipers locked up, then newer battery kept draining, then oil pressure switch, then oil pressure switch again because the truck didn't like a non ac Delco product, then fuel filter, then a rusted line, and now this. 🤣
@Cameron Temple so the multi switch as in the piece that’s for you’re blinker, cruise control and wipers? I’ve got a 98 that’s had just about everything you’ve done changed too.
I live in az it's cool in the morning and runs fine but have the problem when I go home when it's hot and dies on every right turn not the left
Gonna need to mod your distributor so you can rotate it, counterclockwise, problem solved
from what i noticed is your charcol canister line to intake hooked up?
It's in the egnition switch harness goes from the top of key down to side of steering colum pain in ass to switch out but it fixed my 1995 Silverado the pins wear out and shorts things out
I'm having the same or similar problem with mine and several other people I know. It's hard to start, it runs rough, has crap power and a scan doesn't show anything useful. I've swapped the spider injector for a used one I knew was good, it's been tuned up several times, several other parts replaced (I don't remember what all). It's been like this for about 3 years. Changing the distributor cap help a very little bit but only for a few weeks and doesn't clear it up completely. It has all new ac Delco tune up parts currently. About 6 years ago I installed a low milage rebuilt motor. I'm stumped
I just ordered a new ecm and a security module. If it ain't that I'm at a loss
Replace the distributor itself they are bad about chewing the gear on the bottem
That is just a guess but if the gear is bad the timing would be all over the place when setting base timing
Nathan check your throttle position sensor and your ect engine coolant temperature sensor on the intake the one in the head is just for the Guage the tps should be. 5 to1.25 volt range any thing higher or lower at idle is a bad sensor the volts should increase as the accelerate is pushed voltage should be no more than 5 at full throttle with a .75 tolerance
@@robertshafer6168 OK I'll do that. I've seen people do that to test tps sensors before but haven't done it myself yet. Is the temp sensor you're referring to the one near the thermostat housing or is there another one somewhere Wierd? Thanks for the suggestions
I have the same issue for my 1997 suburban. When I replaced my fuel filter, it did not release fuel as if my pump wasn't producing enough pressure to leave enough fuel for start up. When it does start it has the same symptoms as yours. I've done everything you've done as well and I'm replacing the pump again because it seems that in my situation is that my pump after replacing the fuel filter does not seem to produce enough pressure. It's also a new pump. I haven't checked my fuel pressure with a gauge, but I know that it doesn't matter because of the fuel filter removal with not enough fuel going through.
Sometimes you get a bad pump.
UPDATE ON THE TRUCK.
ua-cam.com/video/qvzHK3gkQi8/v-deo.html
I feel like when these things hit a certain point carb swap it mine is doing this now and I’m gonna look into carb swap
It'd with a mechanic for the last time. If this doesn't work I'm scraping the truck
My truck was doing this and it was the timing chain just getting loose with age (stretches out) but I also had slight problems with kick back at start so idk might be timing chain
These trucks do not like anything but ACDelco they will act possessed if you try any other brands!
( a lot of problems are caused simply because of bad ground wires)
What about duralast I changed distributor I changed spark plugs and wires I changed ignition module new ignition coil and around 45-50mph it wants too jump and around 60 it smooths out also low rpm’s at idle
New fuel pump too all duralast gold and ac delco I used a a Delphi fuel pump
Try replacing water coolant temperature sensor
That worked for my 88. Your spot on
Already been done. It's with a mechanic now
Maybe check uper intake manifold gasket
There's a sensor the goes to the charcoal canister and hoses.. same problem w mine
Well, this is funny floating around on YT for a 'rich running bogging out 5.7' because my Gwenivere (1987 G20) started doing the same thing out of the clear blue sky! I know my brake booster is spongey and gasps when holding but she's always ran like a dream, the right side injector is really spraying and theres wet on the gravel from the exhaust. I just started throwing parts at her and think I will go after that booster diagnosis tomorrow.
Did you never find out?
@dooglefresh something with the security and wiring. Still no fix though. No one can figure it how to fix it
@@Salty_Krakenpine hollow auto diagnostics channel has 2 similar videos with your truck type symptoms. One solution was the 02 sensor. The other was the electronic module in the distributor but I’m not 100% certain going off memory. The videos will help I believe.
Having same issue in my 94 GMC sierra 5.7 tbi. When i go to take off she tries to stall. It starts and runs fine at idle but tries to stall when barely giving it gas
Yo that’s what’s happening to mines🤦🏾♂️
@@lejonbrames223 Try icm under distributor cap mine did same runs great now! Dont for get the past!
My ninety seven tahoe did the same thing?My issue was crank position sensor
Have you tried crank position sensor? I’ve came across the same problem but with no check engine light. I’ve changed cap, rotor, wires, TPS. I was about to go grab a distributor but ima try the crank position first. ( it’s a little cheaper) lol
Yes that sensor was replaced. No change unfortunately
Water is in 1 or more cylinders
@@markdollar9738 that would either cause engine locking or it would be blown out the exhaust if it was water.
mine engine died after 5 mins of driving. cranck no start. like you i replaced lots of things. i solved the engine dying off with the oil pressure switch, located under the distributor. i still have a very rough iddle, engine shakes , new timing chain,water pump,fuel pump, icm. mine is a 95 TBI. the oil pressure switch was only 11 bucks
Any luck getting rid of the shake?
Shake is gone!!
@@chuylee1842 how?
Hell you don't have much left to replace/check. Crank, cam, coolant and map sensors. Oh and Timing chain. Oh yeah, smoke test it, compression check, leak down test. Yep not much left.
🤣🤣🤣
2 and a half years of mechanics and dealerships it's a new truck now.... that won't stay on
@@Salty_Kraken 😭😭😭😭
Change the spark plug wires
My 1998 chevy step side still got a miss to it even when i installed new engine it now has 40,000 miles and still misfire read fuel trims mine is burning rich LTFT B1 -16.5 LTFT B2 -17.8 just installed ne fuel pump last week new spider injection this weekend cap rotor wires were under warranty went ahead replaced also my plugs were fould out due to running rich so replaced new crank cam sensor tps sensor my mass airflow shows to be reading accurate map right were it should be reading coolent temp perfect still running rich according to fuel trims mis at idle smell strong gas oder at exhaust fixen install new o2 sensors since its ran rich for so long to see if my fuel trims change any.
Its still down. The temperature sensor has been replaced. I just got it back from the mechanic it's been at for months and they couldn't solve it. (Wasn't charged a penny) I'm at a complete loss. I live near cocoa Florida now and I'm going to research another mechanic that can try and figure it out. Someone somehow will figure it
Have you fixed it? I’ve had a two of these trucks with the same issues for me it ended up being the temp sensor by the thermostat housing. Try unplugging the temp sensor while it’s running.
Its still down. The temperature sensor has been replaced. I just got it back from the mechanic it's been at for months and they couldn't solve it. (Wasn't charged a penny) I'm at a complete loss. I live near cocoa Florida now and I'm going to research another mechanic that can try and figure it out. Someone somehow will figure it out.
Thanks you fixed the issue on my tbi 350 I think with it unplugged it runs a lot better
Fact is NOT a single person actually knows what it is.. ive read everything from every Sensor,Injectors,low oil,fuel pump,fuel filter,catalytic converter, security system,replacing Harmonic Balancer(which is absolutely not this issue,I've had a Balancer go bad).. so no answers I'm guessing.. might as well just replace the truck as I only paid $1000 for her w/136k miles on it.. I love my truck and just want to fix her.. she just started this right after I replaced the Alternator.. I feel like the bad Alternator shorted out a Sensor,I replaced the MAP Sensor yesterday and not the issue just got Throttle Position Sensor as it seems like it's not reading the position properly hence the Erratic idling
Yeah. I find it funny that everyone's answers are everything I've already done and some of them multiple times over
So I don't know that you're still experiencing the problems with your Chevy however I have a 96 K1500 there was stumbling and missing and rough idle all that stuff and I unhooked my entire emissions BS under the hood the mass air flow sensor the EGR that little line that runs from the top of the head to the intake the little sensor in front of the mass air flow sensor and hooked all that everything and it stopped missing and runs really good now it it's crazy because it's not supposed to do that but it sure does hook all that stuff up my truck runs like crap maybe try that with yours couldn't hurt nothing just took it back up
Did the same change a lot of parts but it was the fuel pump replace it again it work good but the first fuel pump was bad second fuel pump was good. Start to drive normal
Throw a new intake, manifold and carburetor on it, throw away all that fuel injection crap
Same problem with mine if I unplug my mas sensor it runs fine with high idle when I plug it in it does what yours does
Is there any abnormal vibrations come from the engine? This may sound strange but check the harmonic balancer. I had one that wouldnt stay in timed right.
Hey did u ever find iut what was wrong eith it bc my truck is doing something similar
vacuum leak from break booster is bad that's why when he hits the breaks it does it
Does it just idling. Does it while driving. Cruise control.
I have the same problem on my 92 suburban and I have replaced everything i think it could be. Someone told me to check my battery voltage after I've replaced all these parts. I thought to myself it can't be the battery it's only a few months old but sure enough it's showing on my meter about 4 or 5
This is very upsetting, my 99 yukon has been throwing a p1351 code. Sent it to, two different shops and they still couldn't figure it out. I just got my car back last week. Been there since the beginning of November. Idk if it's the fuel sending unit. Someone on UA-cam said he replaced the starter and the thing just started working. Blows my mind. I hope you can figure it out brother. If you do, keep us updated. 👍
Will do. I uploaded an update. Pinned comment
@@Salty_KrakenI don't see a pinned comment.
@@benwilson5893 problem hasn't been solved yet.
Just took mine in…it’s sporadic for me as if I have bad gas. Just replaced plugs and fuel filter. Gonna replace distributor and upper intake manifold gasket. Hopefully shop just tells me fuel pump and I’ll be good after that.
Hey bro my 98 just started doing same thing, did you find out what the cause was ??
This is a same problem i got to i got a 1994 chevy silverado hd2500 and its doing the same thing you said really dont know what to do about it
My truck started doing the same exact thing, any answers?
check for vacuum leaks.
I have a 1997 and it does the same thing. if you find out what it is please share. I just replaced the EGR valve last week and it's still the same.
Did you ever figure out what it was?
Having same problem did you figure anything out let me know
@@joshbrown8226 same here 😂
Check ya timing
Turn distrider few degrees
So i looked up on youtube my problem and your video popped up after seen how long its taking you im about to give up i just have one question? Whats the voltage read on your cluster when it starts for that 1 sec ?
It's taken me a long time due to my job. I'm a Trucker so it's not as easy as getting back to it so frequently
Never quit
Got it im in the same industry.. Only reason why i asked about the voltage was that i noticed my truck (98 Silverado) in my cluster when it started for that 3 sec or so the voltage would spike all the way up to the top so i decided to unplug the wire in the back of the alternator and it started to work just fine it not hard and it might help to try i know it makes no sense but to me it worked try it out and let me know good luck
Take throttle body off and give a good cleaning. Be careful with butterfly plate.👍
tried that and also tried completely replacing with new one. no luck
It could be out of time. Check ur ur timing for 0 or just past.
I have the exact same problem wt my 98 k 1500 Silverado
Having same problem update us soon?
We replaced the computer security module new extra strength battery completely replaced every known sensor and checked all grounds. I live down in Florida now and have dealerships and other mechanics completely stumped. I'm stumped. I'm about to yeet it into a bog and set it ablaze. Curiosity puts me $9.6k in the hole
Did u check the EGR vacume solenoid and it's hoses ?
It's on the firewall underneath the AC dryer
Started having the same problem just ran across another video that said to check the crank position sensor so i guess thats my next move
Is been at a shop for almost a year. They've gone over the thing probably 10 times but the owner won't give up 🤣 he is determined.
You need to replace the sensor on d throttle body the one on d right side that will solve your problem it's call idle position sensor
That's was replaced twice. I dropped it off with a mechanic here in Cocoa florida that seemed very interested in it. The owner actual took it and started surgery immediately. We will see.
These trucks are my specialty. I bet I can figure it out. Are you located in the Midwest?
A Father to the Fatherless i got a question. The truck i have is a 95 k1500 with TBI it runs good but it idles really crazy. Itll rev up and down i have changed everything but the fuel pressure regulator and injectors can you telk me what it could be
Can you answer my question
@@joelucas4969 1996-1999 are my specialty. Sorry
@@MacAutoDiag i think i got it, it was the pressure regulator and gaskets on the tbi now it runs like a champ but thanks though 96-99 theres still not much differents as far as parts all interchange
@@joelucas4969 there's a huge difference because that's the year OBD 2 was introduced
My truck won’t idle past 900rpms like what😂 97 Tahoe 4x4 shits pissing me off man driving on highway won’t go over 1800rpms
My does that and i be having full tank but when it wants to bug out it smells like bad gas ⛽️
I would check that tps again...especially if it came from Amazon! ...double check alternator and 02 sensors fuel filter fuel pump....either not enough fuel or too much air ! Good luck hope you figure out your problem
All of it had been double and triple checked over and over. It's now in the 8th shop. No Amazon parts. Thank you
I have a 1996 GMC with the 4.3 vortec I replaced everything still runs rough all I did was unhook the mass air control sensor and it runs good
@@bobwest2825same problem wat was ur fix if u found out
Oh and mines doing almost the same thing just gave it a tune up but after the storms I had to put it 4 wheel end up replacing the CV axle now the engine light comes on and shutters lightly any tips
Honestly you might want to go back and make sure you didn't break cut or damage any wires going to the engine. I know there are a few around the area.
The Spider injectors on these motors are notorious for causing this problem. Check your fuel pressure.
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with er?.
Try cutting the tach wire
I'm going thru the same problems. replaced everything with no difference. I'm replacing headgaskets even though I have no signs of bad head gaskets. I will update you to see if that fixes the issue.
Update?
@@MrCcj13 I did the head gasket and it's the fucking same. Mabey slightly better. So I'm still wondering what the hell is going on. I'm gonna get at it again tomorrow .Will update again WHEN I find the solution. I'm hell bent on fixing it.
@@MrCcj13 just wanted to give an update, my problem is fixed. Turns out it was the tune on the pcm/ecu. Went to a tuner he used HPtuner and gave me a custom tune, it rips now. Plus I gained about 50 hp and about the same ft lbs of torque.
I think you your ingition switch I've been working on my 1998 silverode