I tried it on the canvas part of my strop with some reclaimed slurry, worked great! Also, you can cross the scrath pattern by going tip-to-heel, then heel-to-tip, to add to the burr minimization, along with the short passes.
Thanks for the video. What is in your opinion the best way to achieve the sturdiest long lasting edge on a kitchen knife made of simple steels like 420, 4116 kroup and 12c27mod ?
Usually, kitchen knives made in those types of steels tend not to be very hard (usually 55 HRC or less), and as a result of that lack of hardness knives made from those types of steels will usually not support a very thin apex. As a result, it is usually a good idea to use a coarser finish on knives in those types of steels, such as using a Norton India F oilstone, You could follow that by stropping the knife on a balsa wood block pasted with a diamond or CBN paste (instead of using a knife steel) and get a durable edge that can be made to last longer by being touched up on the strop between uses (exactly like how steeling a softer kitchen knife between uses can extend the life of the edge, but a pasted strop works better).
How about sharpening angles and shapes of cutting edge? I mean can you recommend a specific angle for those types of steel? And maybe convex edge instead of V-edge, is it a good idea for kitchen knives in general and softer steels in particular? (I use KME sharpener which has the ability to apply convex shape to the edge). Thanks!
In general, I would say use ~15 degrees per side if you don't want to use a microbevel, otherwise use the lowest angle your KME allows and then use 20 dps for the microbevel.
Thanks for the information. I have a set of German kitchen knives, a couple hunting blades, a Leatherman Charge and some Swiss Army knives. I am looking at a Norton Crystolon - India Combination Stone (11 1/2") upon your advice above. Is that the same as the "F" stone? I plan on making a balsa strop and giving your technique a try. I am pretty competent with tools and appreciate an expert's hard earned knowledge. The sharpening world is a labyrinth as you well know and I just want some sharp kitchen knives. I think you saved me some frustration and money.
Can you do a video with a longer / bigger knife like a 12" chef's knife or Chinese vegetable knire? I'm curious what adjustments you make compared to handling smaller knives.
According to Stu from Tools From Japan (who dealt directly with the manufacturer of these stones in Japan) they are made using silicon carbide abrasive with virtually no binder. The only exception in the SPS-II line which are NOT made this way are the 400, 1200 and 13000 which are conventional aluminum oxide abrasive with a binder.
I tried it on the canvas part of my strop with some reclaimed slurry, worked great! Also, you can cross the scrath pattern by going tip-to-heel, then heel-to-tip, to add to the burr minimization, along with the short passes.
Nice work! Reminds me to give setting the apex on a strop a try.
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. What is in your opinion the best way to achieve the sturdiest long lasting edge on a kitchen knife made of simple steels like 420, 4116 kroup and 12c27mod ?
Usually, kitchen knives made in those types of steels tend not to be very hard (usually 55 HRC or less), and as a result of that lack of hardness knives made from those types of steels will usually not support a very thin apex. As a result, it is usually a good idea to use a coarser finish on knives in those types of steels, such as using a Norton India F oilstone, You could follow that by stropping the knife on a balsa wood block pasted with a diamond or CBN paste (instead of using a knife steel) and get a durable edge that can be made to last longer by being touched up on the strop between uses (exactly like how steeling a softer kitchen knife between uses can extend the life of the edge, but a pasted strop works better).
How about sharpening angles and shapes of cutting edge? I mean can you recommend a specific angle for those types of steel? And maybe convex edge instead of V-edge, is it a good idea for kitchen knives in general and softer steels in particular? (I use KME sharpener which has the ability to apply convex shape to the edge). Thanks!
In general, I would say use ~15 degrees per side if you don't want to use a microbevel, otherwise use the lowest angle your KME allows and then use 20 dps for the microbevel.
Thanks for the information. I have a set of German kitchen knives, a couple hunting blades, a Leatherman Charge and some Swiss Army knives. I am looking at a Norton Crystolon - India Combination Stone (11 1/2")
upon your advice above. Is that the same as the "F" stone? I plan on making a balsa strop and giving your technique a try. I am pretty competent with tools and appreciate an expert's hard earned knowledge. The sharpening world is a labyrinth as you well know and I just want some sharp kitchen knives. I think you saved me some frustration and money.
I see....the "F" is for FINE?
Can you do a video with a longer / bigger knife like a 12" chef's knife or Chinese vegetable knire? I'm curious what adjustments you make compared to handling smaller knives.
Yes, eventually. I've actually been changing how I move my knives across the stones recently, so I'll eventually make a video showing a larger knife.
Are you sure that's a silicone carbide stone? Sigma Power Select II stones are advertised as ceramic.
According to Stu from Tools From Japan (who dealt directly with the manufacturer of these stones in Japan) they are made using silicon carbide abrasive with virtually no binder. The only exception in the SPS-II line which are NOT made this way are the 400, 1200 and 13000 which are conventional aluminum oxide abrasive with a binder.