I got to play the Hollywood walk EVH up at the vintage vault at GC Sunset Blvd, Took a few pictures of it and ordered the Musikraft 5150 and painted it, Great channel Brian.
Hey Brian, thanks again for all your help so far. I always come back to these videos! How did you keep dirt, dust and all else away from the guitars whilst letting them dry and while also laying the tape & removing? I found that when I was taping the white, when I was done the body had microscopic speckles of household fluff and gunk here and there visible on the white
Thanks man! I'm glad these are helpful. I've thought about consolidating all of them into one big video. The dust issue is a tough one. You just have to be vigilant about wiping everything down and using products with minimal lint. I noticed my tape rolls were getting filled with crap from the table and floor when I was striping the bodies so I had to start making sure the tape rolls were always laid on a plastic bag or some other type of clean surface. For example, if you lay a roll of tape on your carpet flooring you'll notice the side of the tape roll will get filled with fibers and junk which will then be transferred to your stripes! I was literally holding up each new piece of tape to a light source and making sure I wasn't transferring a bunch of junk on the tape before I laid each piece.
Let me get this right.......you are using Sherwin Williams Wimbledon white & Sherwin Williams Chev. orange/red? And, I know that the Wimbledon white is a lacquer. Is the Sherwin Williams Chev. orange/red a lacquer too or is that an enamel? I'm assuming that I'd want it to all be a lacquer, right? I just want to get the right paints before I start to paint. You have done an incredible job at showing how to build & paint/relic a 5150. Out of ALL the information that is out there, your videos have been super helpful to me. Just want to say thanks for the time & effort you put in : )
In this video series I used Sherwin Williams automotive "base" colors mixed at a local Sherwin Williams auto paint store. This requires a clear coat to protect the finish. In my most recent project (not this one) I used Duplicolor lacquers. Hope that helps. ...and thank you so much for the compliments.
Thanks man! All the paint codes and information are discussed heavily in the earlier videos in this series. But basically "Wimbledon White" and Chevy WA7753 red/orange.
These are fantastic... but I'm wondering if building one of the 5150s sans the relic process would be worthwhile? The new 5150 EVH guitars are beautiful, and it seems that you could create two duplicates here; one relic'd and one clean. I'll admit that I'm not someone who understands in total why people create guitars that APPEAR as tho they've been played significantly. I would rather 'relic' my guitar by actually playing the guitar... but I do understand that there is a huge market for the look of relic'd instruments. Just a thought... and again, these look absolutely perfect.
Thanks for watching! I think building one without the relic process WOULD be worthwhile, to answer your question. There are several reasons, but mainly because I believe you can build a guitar like this with premium parts for significantly less money than the retail version of the EVH brand 5150. The relic process takes on a completely different art form. I'm building one for me, and one for a friend and we both agreed the relic'd version would be the way to go on these...but I see your point. I've seen other variations of this 5150 guitar built with a black paint scheme, or blue...etc. So, it's really just a matter of what speaks to you the most. I think adding the relic work makes it a neat conversation piece too, when you have the opportunity to share it with friends. :)
Curious as to why that neck has a licensed by Fender stamp. That's not their headstocks. Do tell. As for the bodies and paint, they look great. Personally, I'm more of a Franky fan than a 5150 fan, but yours look real good.
Here are the links for both items. For the Gotoh tuners, one of the photos shows the dimensions. www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Gotoh-SG360-07-Schaller-Style-Mini-Tuners-6-In-Line-Tuning-Keys-Set-CHROME/291800812412?epid=664698886&hash=item43f0af0b7c:g:cAoAAOSwqaJabqai Here is the link for the waterslide: www.ebay.com/itm/Kramer-Older-Style-Black-Waterslide-Headstock-Decal/113251536947?epid=1033209910&hash=item1a5e515033:g:pHcAAOSw5yFay47C
Not sure if you’ll see this, but tbh is will be the second guitar I paint, how did you “flatten the paint” like when I peel the tape I get some very thick paint ridges
There are a few ways you can do this. You can carefully pull a straight razor blade across those ridges with very light pressure. This will shave off the ridge. Another way you can do this is to wet-sand with very small pieces of 1500 grit sand paper. Afterwards you can polish it with a buffing compound. I would test out a small area first before committing to the entire body this way.
Yes, it was rock maple. My order receipt from 2018 didn't specify what the skunk stripe option was, but looking at the website the default choice with no extra cost appears to be walnut. ....so I'm assuming it was walnut. Hope that helps!
I am interested in putting an r3 on it and what I would have to adjust on my order at musikraft. Also what frets did u get? and neck profile? I am thinking avs profile 81 - 91 /// I like stability and skinny without placing a palm on the guitar and having it go out of tune.... certain profiles are amazing but..... if you even lean an arm on them they go way out of tune.
If you go with an R3 nut you'll want the wider 1-11/16th nut width. I went with the 6100 jumbo frets and the EVH 81-91 profile. It's a very comfortable neck for me.
Hello Brian, I live in Mexico city, I make frankie replicas, is there a way to commision one of these from you? Just painted body, how much would that cost?
I appreciate the offer! However, I only work on these as a personal hobby, and sometimes it takes me several months to complete a project. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
I understand, me too, I do them as a hobby, but loved your builds and attention to detail, so I made an offer, I offered because I would sell mine for the right ammount, take care! Cheers
I’m trying to build one of these now, got an ivory undercoat for the ‘sweaty’ white look with the red candy layer ontop. I was just wondering how I should go about reliving off the red layer?
I did all of my "relic" work with a rounded Xacto blade. There will be a small residual amount of red color left over on the white base, which I took some very small pieces of sandpaper and lightly sanded those areas to make it look white again specifically in the forearm area.
Brian Cazzell // CoffeeDrinker71 no worries. I just did all three coats in one day which was probably a stupid idea but I’ll just leave it for about three days to dry. It was just normal acrylic spraypaint. Are there any tips you can give me to get both the body and neck on my Kramer to the level of distress eddies had when he finally switched to Ernie ball?
@@charlesperry671 yeah it's hard to say since every brand of paint is slightly different in the way it behaves. I sprayed really light coats of the red, just enough to cover the white that way it would scrape off easier. What I would try if I were you is to spray a small sample board just like you painted the guitar then try to see how the paint scrapes away on the sample before moving over to the actual body.
Brian Cazzell // CoffeeDrinker71 did a light red coat and it worked out perfectly, the ivory is nice with a bit of the red bleeding. Thanks for the help mate :)
@@2216sammy They both make exceptionally fine bodies. I have a KNE Franky body and a KNE "DNK" body, and both were great. I only have experience with Locke on this 5150 project and these were great bodies too. You can't go wrong with either, honestly.
It's top secret! :D In all seriousness though I basically "free-handed" the area where the grain would have shown through on the original. Just went back and forth with a rounded Xacto blade. It took two times to get it "right"...had to spray the orange again and start over. But literally I just eyeballed it with that rounded blade.
@@kellylucas2633 Sorry I couldn't be more specific than that. I just had a lot of photos of the original blown up on my iPad and just kept bouncing back and forth from the photos to the actual body and scraped away the paint as best as possible. There was traces of the orange paint left on the white paint though, so I went back through the "relic" areas with some very light sandpaper just to clean the white area back off again, otherwise it would have looked dingy in those spots.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 I was very curious about the actual relic'ing process as well,.. thanks for the description! So was most of the relic process pretty much the same,.. rounded exacto-knife and various light sanding...? Thanks!
I like watching anything to do with EVH guitars. 👍🏻🎸🤘🏻
Thanks man!
I got to play the Hollywood walk EVH up at the vintage vault at GC Sunset Blvd, Took a few pictures of it and ordered the Musikraft 5150 and painted it, Great channel Brian.
Wow I bet that was awesome! Thanks for the comments!!!
I can already imagine these turned out fantastic, gotta finish watching the series. Man i need one, wish i had the money. Great job!
Thank you very much! Yes...they turned out great. I just uploaded the "final" video the other day. Thanks for watching!
Love all your updates!! Great videos!!
Thanks man! I appreciate that!
Hey Brian, thanks again for all your help so far. I always come back to these videos!
How did you keep dirt, dust and all else away from the guitars whilst letting them dry and while also laying the tape & removing? I found that when I was taping the white, when I was done the body had microscopic speckles of household fluff and gunk here and there visible on the white
Thanks man! I'm glad these are helpful. I've thought about consolidating all of them into one big video. The dust issue is a tough one. You just have to be vigilant about wiping everything down and using products with minimal lint. I noticed my tape rolls were getting filled with crap from the table and floor when I was striping the bodies so I had to start making sure the tape rolls were always laid on a plastic bag or some other type of clean surface. For example, if you lay a roll of tape on your carpet flooring you'll notice the side of the tape roll will get filled with fibers and junk which will then be transferred to your stripes! I was literally holding up each new piece of tape to a light source and making sure I wasn't transferring a bunch of junk on the tape before I laid each piece.
I know you’re a serious VH fan based on the tablecloth pattern you’re using! 🤘🏻
Yes!!!! The EVH beach towel!!! LOL. I love that thing.
peeling the stripes off is so much fun! its like taking wrapping paper off lol
Hey there. Just watching because I want to build a one off pacer or baretta. Not necessarily an evh. Good to get info!
Great looking stuff man!
Thanks for watching! Good luck on your project!
Let me get this right.......you are using Sherwin Williams Wimbledon white & Sherwin Williams Chev. orange/red? And, I know that the Wimbledon white is a lacquer. Is the Sherwin Williams Chev. orange/red a lacquer too or is that an enamel? I'm assuming that I'd want it to all be a lacquer, right? I just want to get the right paints before I start to paint.
You have done an incredible job at showing how to build & paint/relic a 5150. Out of ALL the information that is out there, your videos have been super helpful to me. Just want to say thanks for the time & effort you put in : )
In this video series I used Sherwin Williams automotive "base" colors mixed at a local Sherwin Williams auto paint store. This requires a clear coat to protect the finish. In my most recent project (not this one) I used Duplicolor lacquers. Hope that helps. ...and thank you so much for the compliments.
Just found this channel as my buddy and I are going to give this a whirl. Just subscribed...paint codes please
Thanks man! All the paint codes and information are discussed heavily in the earlier videos in this series. But basically "Wimbledon White" and Chevy WA7753 red/orange.
Damn bro.. your killing me here😂😂.. I’m about a second away from stripping my 5150 down and starting all over again 👍🏼👍🏼..
Haha! Oh man, it's a disease, right? Thanks for watching!
These are fantastic... but I'm wondering if building one of the 5150s sans the relic process would be worthwhile? The new 5150 EVH guitars are beautiful, and it seems that you could create two duplicates here; one relic'd and one clean. I'll admit that I'm not someone who understands in total why people create guitars that APPEAR as tho they've been played significantly. I would rather 'relic' my guitar by actually playing the guitar... but I do understand that there is a huge market for the look of relic'd instruments. Just a thought... and again, these look absolutely perfect.
Thanks for watching! I think building one without the relic process WOULD be worthwhile, to answer your question. There are several reasons, but mainly because I believe you can build a guitar like this with premium parts for significantly less money than the retail version of the EVH brand 5150. The relic process takes on a completely different art form. I'm building one for me, and one for a friend and we both agreed the relic'd version would be the way to go on these...but I see your point. I've seen other variations of this 5150 guitar built with a black paint scheme, or blue...etc. So, it's really just a matter of what speaks to you the most. I think adding the relic work makes it a neat conversation piece too, when you have the opportunity to share it with friends. :)
FANTASTIC!
Thanks!!!
Looks amazing. Does the black always go last? Very cool
Thank you!!! Yes, the black stripes are always painted last!
Curious as to why that neck has a licensed by Fender stamp. That's not their headstocks. Do tell.
As for the bodies and paint, they look great. Personally, I'm more of a Franky fan than a 5150 fan, but yours look real good.
Yeah, I have no idea why it was stamped that way...maybe they just have one wood-burning stamp.
Thanks for the compliment! Cheers!
Could you give specifics on the shaft length of the tuners? And where did you get the waterslides?
Here are the links for both items. For the Gotoh tuners, one of the photos shows the dimensions. www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Gotoh-SG360-07-Schaller-Style-Mini-Tuners-6-In-Line-Tuning-Keys-Set-CHROME/291800812412?epid=664698886&hash=item43f0af0b7c:g:cAoAAOSwqaJabqai
Here is the link for the waterslide: www.ebay.com/itm/Kramer-Older-Style-Black-Waterslide-Headstock-Decal/113251536947?epid=1033209910&hash=item1a5e515033:g:pHcAAOSw5yFay47C
Not sure if you’ll see this, but tbh is will be the second guitar I paint, how did you “flatten the paint” like when I peel the tape I get some very thick paint ridges
There are a few ways you can do this. You can carefully pull a straight razor blade across those ridges with very light pressure. This will shave off the ridge. Another way you can do this is to wet-sand with very small pieces of 1500 grit sand paper. Afterwards you can polish it with a buffing compound. I would test out a small area first before committing to the entire body this way.
2 questions: Was the neck wood rock maple, and what wood is the skunk stripe?
Yes, it was rock maple. My order receipt from 2018 didn't specify what the skunk stripe option was, but looking at the website the default choice with no extra cost appears to be walnut. ....so I'm assuming it was walnut. Hope that helps!
Ah ok thanks!
Why the overhang? Why 10" radius?
I am interested in putting an r3 on it and what I would have to adjust on my order at musikraft. Also what frets did u get? and neck profile? I am thinking avs profile 81 - 91 /// I like stability and skinny without placing a palm on the guitar and having it go out of tune.... certain profiles are amazing but..... if you even lean an arm on them they go way out of tune.
If you go with an R3 nut you'll want the wider 1-11/16th nut width. I went with the 6100 jumbo frets and the EVH 81-91 profile. It's a very comfortable neck for me.
Hello Brian, I live in Mexico city, I make frankie replicas, is there a way to commision one of these from you? Just painted body, how much would that cost?
I appreciate the offer! However, I only work on these as a personal hobby, and sometimes it takes me several months to complete a project. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
I understand, me too, I do them as a hobby, but loved your builds and attention to detail, so I made an offer, I offered because I would sell mine for the right ammount, take care! Cheers
I’m trying to build one of these now, got an ivory undercoat for the ‘sweaty’ white look with the red candy layer ontop. I was just wondering how I should go about reliving off the red layer?
I did all of my "relic" work with a rounded Xacto blade. There will be a small residual amount of red color left over on the white base, which I took some very small pieces of sandpaper and lightly sanded those areas to make it look white again specifically in the forearm area.
Brian Cazzell // CoffeeDrinker71 no worries. I just did all three coats in one day which was probably a stupid idea but I’ll just leave it for about three days to dry. It was just normal acrylic spraypaint. Are there any tips you can give me to get both the body and neck on my Kramer to the level of distress eddies had when he finally switched to Ernie ball?
@@charlesperry671 yeah it's hard to say since every brand of paint is slightly different in the way it behaves. I sprayed really light coats of the red, just enough to cover the white that way it would scrape off easier. What I would try if I were you is to spray a small sample board just like you painted the guitar then try to see how the paint scrapes away on the sample before moving over to the actual body.
Brian Cazzell // CoffeeDrinker71 did a light red coat and it worked out perfectly, the ivory is nice with a bit of the red bleeding. Thanks for the help mate :)
@@charlesperry671 Awesome! Good luck on the rest of your project!
musiKraft no longer makes bodies what do you suggest to use ?
I only used a Musikraft neck on my project. For the body I used "Locke".
@@CoffeeDrinker71 Do you prefer the "Locke" bodies more than the KnE bodies ?
@@2216sammy They both make exceptionally fine bodies. I have a KNE Franky body and a KNE "DNK" body, and both were great. I only have experience with Locke on this 5150 project and these were great bodies too. You can't go wrong with either, honestly.
I really want to see how u relic the right arm whare
It's top secret! :D In all seriousness though I basically "free-handed" the area where the grain would have shown through on the original. Just went back and forth with a rounded Xacto blade. It took two times to get it "right"...had to spray the orange again and start over. But literally I just eyeballed it with that rounded blade.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 thanx man
@@kellylucas2633 Sorry I couldn't be more specific than that. I just had a lot of photos of the original blown up on my iPad and just kept bouncing back and forth from the photos to the actual body and scraped away the paint as best as possible. There was traces of the orange paint left on the white paint though, so I went back through the "relic" areas with some very light sandpaper just to clean the white area back off again, otherwise it would have looked dingy in those spots.
@@CoffeeDrinker71 I was very curious about the actual relic'ing process as well,.. thanks for the description! So was most of the relic process pretty much the same,.. rounded exacto-knife and various light sanding...? Thanks!
@@rickwerner1432 Yes, for the most part it was. That rounded blade was really crucial.