Thank you straight forward. I was an equipment Ranger at Texas Parks and never had to go this deep into the FRS 90Rs. Rettired now and of course mine spit out a valve guide. Never seen that before! Took months to find a old cylinder to pull the valve guide and put in mine. Runs great now just like before it died. Got lucky
*Thanks for the vid, very helpful. Just rebuilt my KM130 engine using it and believe it or not this is a 2005 model and the cylinder walls look chrome, shiny and brand new as well as the piston which only had a little spot of carbon on the top. This surprised me considering the age of this unit and the fact that I use it all the time every year since it's a kombi engine and runs all of my attachments. I do use echo red armor oil which has detergents that clean carbon buildup so this may have something to do with how clean and scratch free all of the engine internals were. Either way I was shocked when I removed the head and looked inside the engine.*
What is the part number for that camp gear and the cover I’ve been looking at all your channels and it doesn’t tell me the part number or can I get its
I have one like that which the metal/ aluminum on the backside of cam gear was apparently missing. Seems like it broke & some metal ended up in bottom of crank case. I got it all out & cleaned up. Compression seems good. I don’t have a leak down tester though. Have you encountered this before? Was the engine salvageable- or should I just replace the short block? Great video- Thanks
Great video I have a blower with no compression (resistance) when pulling. I removed valve cover and determined valves are not moving. Prior to watching your video, I assume cam was chewed, after watching it, I'm almost certain this is the case with how few parts there are in the valve train. Would you recommend teardown and replacement of cam, or not worth it?
Stomachbuzz I would pull it apart and replace the cam. Hardest part for me it getting blower wheel nut off. Impact wrenches do not seem to work. Best to lock down piston with rope or blocker pin to hold it still while using a hand wrench to remove nut.
@@zuefeldt1 thanks. After putting rope in the cylinder, I found it quite easy to remove the blower vane nut. Just need a 12in breaker for leverage. Still awkward though. I ordered a new cam gear, push rods, and followers from Stihl dealer. Even though I preferred not to remove the crank cap to preserve the gasket, I went ahead and did it for the sake of inspecting and cleaning out bits of chewed cam gear. Glad I did. I spent about 20 minutes fishing out junk. Eventually washed with soapy water and oiled back up. Yuck. The spur sprocket gear on the crank that meshes with the cam gear, although metal, had some chew marks as well. Not enough to compromise function, but still concerning
cbnx82703 going by memory, I do think you can get to it behind recoil device. These seals are small and will be difficult to extract because of size. Give it a go. Should be easy to know just by removing the three screws holding down recoil.
I have a old Br550 and the flywheel had the key sheared off at the same time as when the valve clearance was as far as I am told reset. After replacing the flywheel do I need to have the valves reset? Thanks
Most likely another issue is at hand. Check timing. May have sheared a flywheel key that is molded to flywheel. Also check for leaks in the case. Being a two cycle, case has to be sealed well in order not to draw air in from any sealed surface. Check for leaks around carb base first.
I am putting a new piston in my br600 and wondering how i should disconnect the old piston from the connecting rod. There are not spring clips holding the wrist pin on.
Should be some really tiny spring clips. look for them with a magnifying glass if you cannot see this with your naked eye. I just took one apart yesterday.
Yeah it’s doable and so is the flywheel side, very easy actually, just drill a small hole in the sidewall of the seal and insert s small sheet metal screw and use pair needle nose vice grips to pull them both out....
Any crack in the case will keep the motor from running if it allows air to leak in. The case must be sealed from any leaks from outside air so a suction can occur to pull fuel from carburetor. A crack in the case without an air leak from outside my cause engine failure due to stresses exceeding design requirements.
Hello Phillip, A flywheel shearing a key should not affect the CAM timing. Typically the flywheel Key which is molded into the flywheel is sheared off because the flywheel nut came loose. I have reused flywheels before with sheared keys as being very careful to position flywheel and tighten nut down. Tapered shaft should prevent flywheel from dislocating. As you can agree, the aluminum shaft key in flywheel does not hold much of anything anyway.
Oh yes, Always set your valves when you have a chance, these 4 mix engines come to me often with valves loose or tight, they seem to move a lot. Set with a special feeler gauge you can purchase for a $1.00 from your local Stihl dealership. Better than cutting up your own version. .004 in is the recommended thickness for Valve Clearance.
@@zuefeldt1 They have pressed in valve guides, I know because my valve spring retainer failed, allowing a valve to drop, and in the resulting damage, it drove the valve guide right out the head/barrel!
Ok I put back together one of the newer ones with the black gear..Crank weights down but the lobe was up I felt good compression when the flywheel is at the right marks with coil but this thing will try and rip an arm out so I need to go back to drawing board for this guy . I feel like if I turn the cam gear like this one it will work, so different procedure..Dont know why they would change the arrows when it all looks like this one here in vid except black gear and arrows are different?
Ok the round piece of sheet metal did come off the back of cam gear when it was apart..I believe the advance timing to start was not right inside, that the spring was not doing its job..Trying to figure out how it went back together now I cant find anything on how it goes together properly at the moment.
Bruce Arnold I wish I had one to take apart and show how it goes together. I did this once before and trying to figure out how the spring hooked up took some time. Finally got it back together and metal plate would not stay affixed. I replaced the cam new after all that work.
Dan are you still active on here. Out of all the videos I've watched I feel that you're the best man to ask for help. If you'd be able to please assist me over phone or via email I would greatly appreciate it sir. I have a stihl fs100 rx trimmer and I followed your video correctly, and that's not the issue. I must have done something wrong sealing everything back up or I missed something. I want your direction before I decide to break the gaskets again and have to open everything back up. Basically I believe my valves to be seized, there was next to zero oil in the valve case and their both stuck open or all the way up I believe. Please help me I don't have a lot of money and this machine was in working order previously, and was a steal for the price I paid of 75 bucks. Which is a lot of money to me and my family however it makes money and I rely on it desperately.. Thank you..
Hello Aaron, I am still here. :-) What gives you the impression your valves are stuck open or closed? If you think valves are stuck closed you should be able to press them open with a push of the thumb or finger, springs are not that tight. If you cannot push it open then it is stuck closed and you will need to pull engine apart to work on valves. If they are stuck open then the piston may be hitting them, I am not sure about this. You can try to close them by pushing several feet of pull cord rope or some thing similar into sparkplug hole with piston down. After putting as mush in as you can then rotate piston to upward TDC (Top Dead Center) this may push the valves closed. If you see the valves move then it was stuck open. If you have the tools then compressed air in the spark plug hole will leak out any open valves and you can hear a hiss should coming out the carb or exhaust. No hiss, no leak, no open valve.
Very well explained and I’ve learned exactly what I needed to help me put my HL100 4 mix back together again.
So awesome. Thx
Awesome.
Thank you straight forward.
I was an equipment Ranger at Texas Parks and never had to go this deep into the FRS 90Rs. Rettired now and of course mine spit out a valve guide. Never seen that before! Took months to find a old cylinder to pull the valve guide and put in mine. Runs great now just like before it died. Got lucky
*Thanks for the vid, very helpful. Just rebuilt my KM130 engine using it and believe it or not this is a 2005 model and the cylinder walls look chrome, shiny and brand new as well as the piston which only had a little spot of carbon on the top. This surprised me considering the age of this unit and the fact that I use it all the time every year since it's a kombi engine and runs all of my attachments. I do use echo red armor oil which has detergents that clean carbon buildup so this may have something to do with how clean and scratch free all of the engine internals were. Either way I was shocked when I removed the head and looked inside the engine.*
Great Job 👌
Your video is really helpful for US
Thank You for sharing
Nice video and you showed exactly what I wanted to check
Damn, this was the best video I've ever seen! Thanks for this one! 😁😊
Our br600 has the lobe facing upwards when you line the arrows up with the two lines in the case.. qtf
Great video, on the newer br600 cam gear are black and seats with lobe pointing upwards since the marking lines up only that way .
Please make a video! ;-)
thanks, cool update. Can you do a video? I typically work on older units.
That is correct on the newer one..I just went through the same issue..Lobe up.
Nice video,all the information I needed and none of the bs I didnt.thankyou for not talking to much trying to be famous.
Very valuable information thank you
Thank you very good ecplanation
Great video, thank you
Just what I was looking for...
What is the part number for that camp gear and the cover I’ve been looking at all your channels and it doesn’t tell me the part number or can I get its
Try this link to see part numbers. This is for a br600. www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/br-600/e682459c-a328-401b-8e3d/
I have one like that which the metal/ aluminum on the backside of cam gear was apparently missing. Seems like it broke & some metal ended up in bottom of crank case.
I got it all out & cleaned up. Compression seems good. I don’t have a leak down tester though.
Have you encountered this before? Was the engine salvageable- or should I just replace the short block?
Great video- Thanks
The back side of the plastic cam gear is a weak spot for these motors. I have had them come apart on me. Best to replace cam gear new if that happens.
Nicely done Dan. Thanks
Great video
I have a blower with no compression (resistance) when pulling.
I removed valve cover and determined valves are not moving.
Prior to watching your video, I assume cam was chewed, after watching it, I'm almost certain this is the case with how few parts there are in the valve train.
Would you recommend teardown and replacement of cam, or not worth it?
Stomachbuzz I would pull it apart and replace the cam. Hardest part for me it getting blower wheel nut off. Impact wrenches do not seem to work. Best to lock down piston with rope or blocker pin to hold it still while using a hand wrench to remove nut.
@@zuefeldt1 thanks.
After putting rope in the cylinder, I found it quite easy to remove the blower vane nut. Just need a 12in breaker for leverage. Still awkward though.
I ordered a new cam gear, push rods, and followers from Stihl dealer. Even though I preferred not to remove the crank cap to preserve the gasket, I went ahead and did it for the sake of inspecting and cleaning out bits of chewed cam gear. Glad I did. I spent about 20 minutes fishing out junk. Eventually washed with soapy water and oiled back up.
Yuck.
The spur sprocket gear on the crank that meshes with the cam gear, although metal, had some chew marks as well. Not enough to compromise function, but still concerning
Thank you, this just saved me some time!
Awesome Matt, Thanks
Thank you brother
Great video
Do you know if you can change the crankshaft seal on the recoil starter side without removing the crankcase cover? Thanks...
cbnx82703 going by memory, I do think you can get to it behind recoil device. These seals are small and will be difficult to extract because of size. Give it a go. Should be easy to know just by removing the three screws holding down recoil.
I have a old Br550 and the flywheel had the key sheared off at the same time as when the valve clearance was as far as I am told reset. After replacing the flywheel do I need to have the valves reset? Thanks
Only reset them if you think it has been a while. if you have recently done it then they are probably OK. Does not hurt to check them when you can.
Excellent video. I have the same trimmer. thanks!
AWESOME. Thanks.
Put a br600 cam gear back in and the line and arrows lined up and the lobe was pointing up. Having problem starting it ????
Most likely another issue is at hand. Check timing. May have sheared a flywheel key that is molded to flywheel. Also check for leaks in the case. Being a two cycle, case has to be sealed well in order not to draw air in from any sealed surface. Check for leaks around carb base first.
What about lubrication on the cog?
The oil mixed in fuel should be enough for running, however a light amount of any lubrication during assy is nice.
I am putting a new piston in my br600 and wondering how i should disconnect the old piston from the connecting rod. There are not spring clips holding the wrist pin on.
Should be some really tiny spring clips. look for them with a magnifying glass if you cannot see this with your naked eye. I just took one apart yesterday.
Yeah it’s doable and so is the flywheel side, very easy actually, just drill a small hole in the sidewall of the seal and insert s small sheet metal screw and use pair needle nose vice grips to pull them both out....
My stihl 4mix, i just did all that but when i start it go on with the choke on but when i take off the choke, go off
This sounds like the carb is having issues. If it runs on choke then internal engine timing must be good. Carbs are cheap. Replace the carb.
what happens if the steel plate in the back breaks does it lose power.let me know
Any crack in the case will keep the motor from running if it allows air to leak in. The case must be sealed from any leaks from outside air so a suction can occur to pull fuel from carburetor. A crack in the case without an air leak from outside my cause engine failure due to stresses exceeding design requirements.
Hello Phillip, A flywheel shearing a key should not affect the CAM timing. Typically the flywheel Key which is molded into the flywheel is sheared off because the flywheel nut came loose. I have reused flywheels before with sheared keys as being very careful to position flywheel and tighten nut down. Tapered shaft should prevent flywheel from dislocating. As you can agree, the aluminum shaft key in flywheel does not hold much of anything anyway.
Oh yes, Always set your valves when you have a chance, these 4 mix engines come to me often with valves loose or tight, they seem to move a lot. Set with a special feeler gauge you can purchase for a $1.00 from your local Stihl dealership. Better than cutting up your own version. .004 in is the recommended thickness for Valve Clearance.
0.004" or 0.01mm
Awesome to know. Thanks for the update.
Thanks good video.
Thanks for the clear instructions, my valve guide fell out.....! odd huh?
ian macadie hum? I did not think these engines had valve guides. Strange.
@@zuefeldt1 They have pressed in valve guides, I know because my valve spring retainer failed, allowing a valve to drop, and in the resulting damage, it drove the valve guide right out the head/barrel!
Ok I put back together one of the newer ones with the black gear..Crank weights down but the lobe was up I felt good compression when the flywheel is at the right marks with coil but this thing will try and rip an arm out so I need to go back to drawing board for this guy . I feel like if I turn the cam gear like this one it will work, so different procedure..Dont know why they would change the arrows when it all looks like this one here in vid except black gear and arrows are different?
Strange. Please post an update if you find a resolution.
Ok the round piece of sheet metal did come off the back of cam gear when it was apart..I believe the advance timing to start was not right inside, that the spring was not doing its job..Trying to figure out how it went back together now I cant find anything on how it goes together properly at the moment.
Bruce Arnold I wish I had one to take apart and show how it goes together. I did this once before and trying to figure out how the spring hooked up took some time. Finally got it back together and metal plate would not stay affixed. I replaced the cam new after all that work.
i just did a br600 with the black cam, so the arrows are at the top while the center round triangle points down.
Thank you
I put the cam wrong and the stihl fs90r has no work good
Thanks
Hola desde Argentina🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷
Hola from Texas.
Thank you sir.
Hillbilly Rig Repairs awesome!
great vid thanks
Ive done a bunch of these and installed cam 180 degrees out on last build, scratching head as to why it wouldnt start lol
Yeah. Still very easy to do it without removing the crankcase cover.
Dan are you still active on here. Out of all the videos I've watched I feel that you're the best man to ask for help. If you'd be able to please assist me over phone or via email I would greatly appreciate it sir. I have a stihl fs100 rx trimmer and I followed your video correctly, and that's not the issue. I must have done something wrong sealing everything back up or I missed something. I want your direction before I decide to break the gaskets again and have to open everything back up. Basically I believe my valves to be seized, there was next to zero oil in the valve case and their both stuck open or all the way up I believe. Please help me I don't have a lot of money and this machine was in working order previously, and was a steal for the price I paid of 75 bucks. Which is a lot of money to me and my family however it makes money and I rely on it desperately.. Thank you..
Hello Aaron, I am still here. :-) What gives you the impression your valves are stuck open or closed? If you think valves are stuck closed you should be able to press them open with a push of the thumb or finger, springs are not that tight. If you cannot push it open then it is stuck closed and you will need to pull engine apart to work on valves. If they are stuck open then the piston may be hitting them, I am not sure about this. You can try to close them by pushing several feet of pull cord rope or some thing similar into sparkplug hole with piston down. After putting as mush in as you can then rotate piston to upward TDC (Top Dead Center) this may push the valves closed. If you see the valves move then it was stuck open. If you have the tools then compressed air in the spark plug hole will leak out any open valves and you can hear a hiss should coming out the carb or exhaust. No hiss, no leak, no open valve.
I’ve got a ? I’ve got a Br-600 cranks right up run good for about 10 minutes then starts to loose power & cuts off
IT HAS AN ARROW ON THE GOVERNOR DOSNT NEED TO TAKE APART THE ENGINE
Where is the governor located on a husqvarna 128 djx?
You didn't even mention being on the correct stroke...pitiful
TY.