This was awesome. Literally took 15 minutes a side. I used regular old needle nosed pliers to turn the piston. Slow, steady and multiple times, like you said. Mines a 2012 Non Turbo.
I was able to compress my passenger rear without turning, my driver side was the only one I couldn't get...didnt realize they needed to be turned. Question is why was I able to compress one on the rear but not the other without turning?
When turning that piece on the caliper, why are you turning it so many times? How many times does it need to be turned? Can’t I just leave it how it is with the notch already being lined up with the current pad and replace it on the new pad?
Question to anyone really... I did the rear ones on daughter's car. Ended up having to replace the caliper as the piston would not compress and the brake dragged. Replaced, bled, tightened the parking brake cable a bit, BUT, I cannot get the passenger side parking brake to lock up now. I tried rotating the lever on the parking brake 'gear' on the back of the caliper, so that when the brake is pulled, it has more of a throw to set the brake. Instead, it keeps bottoming out on the front of the caliper. The other side is fine though. Tested in snow, nope, cannot get that side to lock up. Tried loosening parking brake cable, re inserting the lever as far back as I could, but of course, once I retighten the cable, forward it comes and again bottoms out before locking up. Ideas???
@carfilms781 i notice a scrapping kind of noise coming from the back tires. Does that mean my breaks are bad. Its doing it while im not even breaking, but mostly after i take my foot off the break. Im going to change the pads this weekend
This is a half ass brake job. The rotors are scored, rusted and probably will wear grooves into the new pads decreasing effectiveness. its too easy to remove the rotors to do a half ass job like this. plus, where is the new hardware brake clips, and the lisle tool is a cheap but useful addition to doing this job rather than a long needle nose pliers where the boots on the pistons can get damaged. He's right though, if all you have is a hammer, then everything is a nail. front pads dont have the need to turn the piston. also, on velosters, there are 2 set screws in each rotor to keep them on during assembly at factory. these need to be removed to change rotor. good luck getting them out without a impact driver. don't even bother attempting job unless you have one.
Wow! One of the worst maintenance videos I’ve ever seen! First of all don’t replace your pads without at the very least turning your rotors! And don’t call out torque values for people if you’re not even using a torque wrench yourself… If you watched this video please find a better one!
This was awesome. Literally took 15 minutes a side. I used regular old needle nosed pliers to turn the piston. Slow, steady and multiple times, like you said. Mines a 2012 Non Turbo.
This was perfect instructions! I used the pliers for the caliper piston even though I had the special tool, the pliers were easier. Thanks!
6 years later you’re still saving lives 🫡
ho to adjust handbrake? Mine doesn't lock very well and one wheel more than the other
is there a difference in calipers from the turbo and non turbo?
This was very helpful. Thank you ✌🏿
So confused still. what did you do to the piston with the pliers ?
he compressed the caliper so it would fit. Was just his way of making it fit.
Turn and push, you can buy the actual tool for under $40 though, it just fits in and turns while compressing, much easier than what he did.
Bought the tool at autozone for 13$
@@moejoe6587 hey would you mind letting me know what is called if you see this?
You saved the day! Didn't realize that the piston turned in
Quick question lol do you always keep the hand brake on ?
Use wheel chock
If brake on u won't be able to get it off
Don’t use parking brake for rear brake replacement! Chock your front wheels.
Thanks that video it's really good. Help me a lot
This video was so useful 😩😂😂😂
I was able to compress my passenger rear without turning, my driver side was the only one I couldn't get...didnt realize they needed to be turned. Question is why was I able to compress one on the rear but not the other without turning?
because the passenger side is damaged, you should replace the caliper.
why didn't you grease your slide pins?
Why change the pads only when the rotors are clearly bad?
You saved me 85 bucks! I thought the piston had seized!
When turning that piece on the caliper, why are you turning it so many times? How many times does it need to be turned? Can’t I just leave it how it is with the notch already being lined up with the current pad and replace it on the new pad?
troymassey90 you have to compress them since your putting new brake pads
Just compress with an old pad and a c clamp
Question to anyone really... I did the rear ones on daughter's car. Ended up having to replace the caliper as the piston would not compress and the brake dragged. Replaced, bled, tightened the parking brake cable a bit, BUT, I cannot get the passenger side parking brake to lock up now. I tried rotating the lever on the parking brake 'gear' on the back of the caliper, so that when the brake is pulled, it has more of a throw to set the brake. Instead, it keeps bottoming out on the front of the caliper. The other side is fine though. Tested in snow, nope, cannot get that side to lock up. Tried loosening parking brake cable, re inserting the lever as far back as I could, but of course, once I retighten the cable, forward it comes and again bottoms out before locking up. Ideas???
Nice kitchen gloves👌
Wd-40 helps with bolts give it a few moments to do its trick
WD-40 is a drying agent(water displacement), it doesn't do much in the sense you're saying, penetrating oil is what you want.
On the lower level bolt, 14 mm or ml?
Is it relatively the same for front brakes as well?
It's actually easier for the front, but yes relatively the same!
Perfect! Thank you! I can't tell you how many videos I've watched. I'm going to be attempting this this month so I'm getting as prepared as I can
@carfilms781 i notice a scrapping kind of noise coming from the back tires. Does that mean my breaks are bad. Its doing it while im not even breaking, but mostly after i take my foot off the break. Im going to change the pads this weekend
thanks you
GRACIAAAAAAAAAÁAAAAS
replace those rotors! sheesh man
This is a half ass brake job. The rotors are scored, rusted and probably will wear grooves into the new pads decreasing effectiveness. its too easy to remove the rotors to do a half ass job like this. plus, where is the new hardware brake clips, and the lisle tool is a cheap but useful addition to doing this job rather than a long needle nose pliers where the boots on the pistons can get damaged. He's right though, if all you have is a hammer, then everything is a nail.
front pads dont have the need to turn the piston. also, on velosters, there are 2 set screws in each rotor to keep them on during assembly at factory. these need to be removed to change rotor. good luck getting them out without a impact driver. don't even bother attempting job unless you have one.
Wow! One of the worst maintenance videos I’ve ever seen! First of all don’t replace your pads without at the very least turning your rotors! And don’t call out torque values for people if you’re not even using a torque wrench yourself… If you watched this video please find a better one!