DAY 11 in a row! We can't believe that we are managing to pull this off but most of all we can't believe how many of you are popping by every day to watch our daily diaries so... THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR BEING HERE!!!! You guys are the best!❤🔥
Are you kidding me? We’ve all been waiting for Yaba to get ready for the splash. I personally, wouldn’t miss it. I’ve been here since the first episode.
Ben and MP, you should think about putting one way valves on the bilge pump hose because the exit hoses look to be very long. This will stop the water from coming back into the bilge when the pump stops running. They will also stop water from coming in if a through haul goes below the water line.
Thanks! if you could find the right blade for your saws-all it would cut it a lot faster because it’s generally more powerful than a jigsaw and also a drum sander attachment on your drill. Using some very coarse sandpaper would go a lot faster than that rasp you’re using. Once you were close, you could go to a less aggressive sandpaper on the drum sander. By the way, they actually make extenders for drills not that I know if you can find them where you are but something to think about.
We use to in lay the transducer level, using a canoe shaped block, thus sounding straight to the bottom, not at an angle. Great job guys, she's looking sweet.
I want to see a bilge alarm installed and tested, this is crucial as it's a single planked wooden boat and you need to know if more water than the pumps can handle is coming in the boat.
Ben you could wrap a piece of sandpaper on the outside of the hole saw that is smaller than your hole. wrap enough that it is close to the hole size and use it as a drum sander instead of filling to size. so much faster and easier.
4:00--Whenever you wire on a spool like that, you should put something through the middle and spool it out. If you just pull it off the side, you're putting a twist--potentially a kink--for every turn of the wire on the spool. If you do end up with twists (which physically shortens your cable), 'chase' the twists out by running the cable through your hand, while leaving the end to untwist. Untwisted wire is longer, and easier to snake.
Hi folks, you guys are hard workers, ive watched from the start. My favourite boat channel. My dog hears your dogs barking and is now looking for them 😂
You can't go wrong with Garmin. I use Garmin in all my electronics. Thank you for the daily posts and all the editing that has be done to get out a video everyday. Everyone is excited for splash day!
Ben and MP, If you want to activate the bilge pumps either from the panel as automatically, the key in the panel must be conected in paralell with the automatic key.
Make sure to put a check valve in the hose for all the bilge pumps. Water will come in those through holes when the sea is ruff. And will fill your boat up. I would have put the bilge pump through holes as far away from the water line as possible… check valves will solve this problem on all the drain type holes
Looks very hot there it’s below zero where I live in Alaska small fishing village on the coast Seward Alaska very pretty here I love your show been watching it since the beginning
I'm sure you took this into account before bolting everything up. You must make sure that the transducer is perpendicular to the water line. You can make small wedges to place on the outside and inside of the boat to adjust for the slight angular difference then just epoxy the wedges to the hull. That way the transducer thru-hull fitting will be correctly aligned to the water line. "Looking straight down from 2 directions, Fore to aft and port to starboard." Great work from all the folks that has worked on the boat so far. So close, so very close. :)
At that installed angle, the dB loss of the returned echo may not be detected beyond 5 meters of water depth. At 50 meters of water depth, the return echo will arrive 20 meters to port of the boat. Mounting it exactly vertical and let the transducers beam width account for the rolling of the hull.
@@sailingsjofagel Transducers are available with from 9° to 20° beam widths. They are all meant to be installed completely vertical, with the beam width allowing for some amount of heel. A 12° beam would only receive a decent return signal at up to 6° heel. On a sailboat, I recommend a 20° beam width, installed vertically, so that it works on either tack. As installed on Yabá, it will only work on a Starboard tack. But that's just my opinion after 60 years on sailboats and a 33 year career as a Sonarman, Sonar Tech, and Naval Electronics Technician.
You should check the pump and float switch instructions to see how close the switch can be to the pump .the draw of the pump may cause the switch to flutter causing the pump to turn off & on off & on
The transducer must be mounted vertical forward, aft, port and starboard. Fabricate wedges for outside and inside the hull to make this happen. If you mount it flush with the hull and at an angle, your depth readings will be really inaccurate. Also, install check valves at your bilge pumps to keep water from flowing back into the bilge when the pump turns off. You also might think about high water alarms.
I know its probably too late but the transducer can work perfectly on the inside. On my old wooden boat (1932) i put the transducer inside low down on the flattest part of the hull, it works perfectly through the wet wood 4cm thick as long as there is no air gap. I used some silicon on downside of transducer and stuck it to inside of hull to keep air away.
Just adding to my previous comment…. I was born in Southport UK and Ben was born in Ormskirk just down the road. So we were practically neighbours! I know Ormskirk very well, but I have not travelled as much as Ben. I now live in Birmingham which is not as sunny and as exotic as where you are guys! 👍
You're almost done, but I've been watching and you know, you can pick your spot in the interior, and then drill out first, then you have a much better idea of exactly where to put your holes.
it is best practice to install a one way check valve and a fuse within three feet from the bilge pump, also your transduce should be installed into a fairing block underneath the hull which holds it plumb,
One thing for anti fouling or as an Anode... You can connect to negative separate cable to the battery and extend to exterior and have rod/ line in water to protect entire system as an simpler solution!!
Polyurethane, like Sikaflex cures better in a rainy day than a sunny day. It even cures under water. Do not put anti fauling under the Sikaflex around the transducer. A transducer is often mounted in a block that sticks a bit out from the hull, to avoid turbulent water near the hull. This is mostly to get an accurate an undisturbed signal when looking for fish at cruise speed.
When it comes to the through hole another inexpensive way to widen them would be to use a drum sander that attaches to your drill with a course sand paper. After you rough it down with a chisel
A forstener bit is what you need it cuts the wood away as it drills and you don't have a plug. It's just that you need to drill half way through from each side if possible. If not be careful and don't push it hard when it breaks through. I wish I would have thought about it earlier I would have sent you a set.
Really appreciate the work you are putting in. Great edits ,camera work is great ,audio great . MP editing is outstanding . Proud of you guys ,have been here since the beginning .
Important Info: Regarding the WAGO connections. You need to either electrical tape these or better to use “Heat Shrink”. These are great connectors, but with the vibration or the boat, these can release themselves. Heat shrink is best as it’ll protect the connector better. Amazing work and so looking forward to see you both sailing. 🤙
Can you find anywhere on the hull where there is not going to be a through hull near ! That hull is starting to look like Swiss cheese. Would it not have been better to reduce the through hulls and try to combine some. Every hole just promotes rot and chances of failure.
MP, I believe the reason your light flicker when the pump turns on may be that your wire gauge you are using to feed power to the pump may be too small. (the pump draws a lot of power when it first starts.) Other option would be to feed the lights from their own source of power that isn't shared with the pump.
Man if i could afford to fly over and help you guys to the finish line i would, me and my grandad have been watching you guys from the start what an epic journey cant wait to see you splash! so excited!! SO JEALOUS!
Love these daily vlogs! You are definately my favourite utube channel. Good luck to you all with your sea quest. You have great attitude and very skilful workers. Keep up the great work guys!!! 👍
These Daily Vlogs Are TEMPORARY --- WTF --- Yep Just 30 Daily Vlogs --- Send Your Appreciation Now --- ???MP & Ben, --- Will You Guys Sell Out❓, Like Roberta Y Duca⁉ A SLOW FLIP‼ Eh⁉ When Did R-n-D Know They We're Selling MSV Odd❓ The Viewers Paying💲 Their Hard Earned 💰 Money To See A Couple Rebuild A Boat To Live On To Travel Around The World--- ONLY ---To See Them CASH OUT‼ One Word --- Just 1 Word --- KARMA ❌
Template Dude . Cable should only go in one time . And sealing it ? Maybe oversized , leaving room for sealant? But messing around with the cable is the main issue. Lots of luck. ❤️
you will eventually discard those plastic bilge pumps and switch to a large electric motor and brass pump. we had 1/3rd electric motor and a 2 inch hydraulic pump.
Kbow it is a bit late in the game for this idea but have you guys thought about a back up smaller motor. Can spin the same prop. If you make the supports now it could be placed with boat in water, Great work guys
Ben you worked so hard to stop Yaba from leaking and now you are putting 4 or 5 big through holes. Now stop that. just kidding awesome with all the bilge pumps. All those views why wont everybody hit thumbs up. come on guys help out. please
DAY 11 in a row! We can't believe that we are managing to pull this off but most of all we can't believe how many of you are popping by every day to watch our daily diaries so... THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR BEING HERE!!!! You guys are the best!❤🔥
Thanks guys adios Madre
I haven't missed one!
The eleven day of a thumbs up. We are going to get spoiled with dailies!
Continuem!! vocês estão conseguindo dia após dia!! muito trabalho... será recompensado!
Are you kidding me? We’ve all been waiting for Yaba to get ready for the splash. I personally, wouldn’t miss it. I’ve been here since the first episode.
Ben and MP, you should think about putting one way valves on the bilge pump hose because the exit hoses look to be very long. This will stop the water from coming back into the bilge when the pump stops running. They will also stop water from coming in if a through haul goes below the water line.
Thanks!
if you could find the right blade for your saws-all it would cut it a lot faster because it’s generally more powerful than a jigsaw and also a drum sander attachment on your drill. Using some very coarse sandpaper would go a lot faster than that rasp you’re using. Once you were close, you could go to a less aggressive sandpaper on the drum sander. By the way, they actually make extenders for drills not that I know if you can find them where you are but something to think about.
We use to in lay the transducer level, using a canoe shaped block, thus sounding straight to the bottom, not at an angle. Great job guys, she's looking sweet.
Leuk om je een paar woorden Vlaams te horen spreken, ik volg jullie van dag één vanuit de Kempen , respect en knap werk
I;m enjoying this fast-paced format of a video every day.
I want to see a bilge alarm installed and tested, this is crucial as it's a single planked wooden boat and you need to know if more water than the pumps can handle is coming in the boat.
The blink on the light when the pump is turned on happens because of the transient of the motor.
Ben you are so lucky to have found MP, I am jealous😉
Stick some rough sandpaper onto the outside of a cupsaw and use it in a drill to open up the hole.
Ben you could wrap a piece of sandpaper on the outside of the hole saw that is smaller than your hole. wrap enough that it is close to the hole size and use it as a drum sander instead of filling to size. so much faster and easier.
Hi guys, I admire your energy and commitment. Been there myself some 20 years ago when Loïc was 9-10 years old ! Hug him from his dad !
He has been a great help! We are loving having him over. Thank you so much!
Install 2 depth sounders one close to bow other in your chosen location
4:00--Whenever you wire on a spool like that, you should put something through the middle and spool it out. If you just pull it off the side, you're putting a twist--potentially a kink--for every turn of the wire on the spool. If you do end up with twists (which physically shortens your cable), 'chase' the twists out by running the cable through your hand, while leaving the end to untwist.
Untwisted wire is longer, and easier to snake.
Hi folks, you guys are hard workers, ive watched from the start. My favourite boat channel. My dog hears your dogs barking and is now looking for them 😂
That is awesome! 😂
you just tape your transducer. Happy hangover.
You can't go wrong with Garmin. I use Garmin in all my electronics. Thank you for the daily posts and all the editing that has be done to get out a video everyday. Everyone is excited for splash day!
It's all coming together!!! Yay!!!❤
thats it above the water line , very good
Cheap sanding drum set on a drill would be handy for lots of projects.
Getting exciting. We are so happy for y'all
Hangovers are hell especially if you have to work the next day.
When the bilge pump comes on automatically the light on the 3 way switch in the pilot house should come on.
As it does 😄
Ben and MP, If you want to activate the bilge pumps either from the panel as automatically, the key in the panel must be conected in paralell with the automatic key.
Make sure to put a check valve in the hose for all the bilge pumps. Water will come in those through holes when the sea is ruff. And will fill your boat up. I would have put the bilge pump through holes as far away from the water line as possible… check valves will solve this problem on all the drain type holes
Thanks! You seem such nice people . All very impressive!
Hi guys great content just a small observation a right size cup saw hole is easier to fill in if you make a mistake as you have the plug for the job 🙂
Great progress. Job well done. Keep being awesome.
The caged switches are a good idea.
Starting my day with a Yabá daily video is awesome
Looks very hot there it’s below zero where I live in Alaska small fishing village on the coast Seward Alaska very pretty here I love your show been watching it since the beginning
First land lovers it would be nice if you explain what the different sensors do.....as you install them
Great job but you need to raise your float switch above the intake of your pump to stop it from running while drive
I'm sure you took this into account before bolting everything up. You must make sure that the transducer is perpendicular to the water line. You can make small wedges to place on the outside and inside of the boat to adjust for the slight angular difference then just epoxy the wedges to the hull. That way the transducer thru-hull fitting will be correctly aligned to the water line. "Looking straight down from 2 directions, Fore to aft and port to starboard." Great work from all the folks that has worked on the boat so far. So close, so very close. :)
At that installed angle, the dB loss of the returned echo may not be detected beyond 5 meters of water depth. At 50 meters of water depth, the return echo will arrive 20 meters to port of the boat.
Mounting it exactly vertical and let the transducers beam width account for the rolling of the hull.
Este flaco es un chanta no sabe un pomo y da explicaciones como si supiera !!!!!
Generally transducers will have about 12° tolerance to cater for hull shape. I'm sure Ben and Luïc read it in the instructions 😀
@@sailingsjofagel Transducers are available with from 9° to 20° beam widths. They are all meant to be installed completely vertical, with the beam width allowing for some amount of heel. A 12° beam would only receive a decent return signal at up to 6° heel. On a sailboat, I recommend a 20° beam width, installed vertically, so that it works on either tack. As installed on Yabá, it will only work on a Starboard tack.
But that's just my opinion after 60 years on sailboats and a 33 year career as a Sonarman, Sonar Tech, and Naval Electronics Technician.
I have to mention this... I love the Odd life crafting shirt you're wearing when you got back from the shops, MP...
Me too! 😍
😆
You should check the pump and float switch instructions to see how close the switch can be to the pump .the draw of the pump may cause the switch to flutter causing the pump to turn off & on off & on
There is a special paint for transducers.
super om eens nederlands te horen in je film's goed bezien bij tezien dat je big splash dichterbijkomt
quedan pocos dias!!!!
The transducer must be mounted vertical forward, aft, port and starboard. Fabricate wedges for outside and inside the hull to make this happen. If you mount it flush with the hull and at an angle, your depth readings will be really inaccurate. Also, install check valves at your bilge pumps to keep water from flowing back into the bilge when the pump turns off. You also might think about high water alarms.
I know its probably too late but the transducer can work perfectly on the inside. On my old wooden boat (1932) i put the transducer inside low down on the flattest part of the hull, it works perfectly through the wet wood 4cm thick as long as there is no air gap. I used some silicon on downside of transducer and stuck it to inside of hull to keep air away.
A Toilet seat bidet is the only way. You'll never regret it.
As a “land locked Iowa farmer”, I can’t believe how many holes are in that boat !?! Great video Thanks
Just adding to my previous comment…. I was born in Southport UK and Ben was born in Ormskirk just down the road. So we were practically neighbours! I know Ormskirk very well, but I have not travelled as much as Ben. I now live in Birmingham which is not as sunny and as exotic as where you are guys! 👍
You're almost done, but I've been watching and you know, you can pick your spot in the interior, and then drill out first, then you have a much better idea of exactly where to put your holes.
Bilge pump outlets need to be well above the waterline. When your boat heels under sail you dont want them going under!
You are all working so hard, but it will be worth it.
Tape over the 'ducer during AF painting and use "ducer paint on its emitting surface afterward.
Great progress again xx
it is best practice to install a one way check valve and a fuse within three feet from the bilge pump, also your transduce should be installed into a fairing block underneath the hull which holds it plumb,
Nice one everyone getting closer to the day 😊😊
One thing for anti fouling or as an Anode... You can connect to negative separate cable to the battery and extend to exterior and have rod/ line in water to protect entire system as an simpler solution!!
happy birthday Ben 🙂🙃
Polyurethane, like Sikaflex cures better in a rainy day than a sunny day. It even cures under water.
Do not put anti fauling under the Sikaflex around the transducer.
A transducer is often mounted in a block that sticks a bit out from the hull, to avoid turbulent water near the hull. This is mostly to get an accurate an undisturbed signal when looking for fish at cruise speed.
Hey Dudes. Sika that transducer in before Anti fouling.
Mask it if you don't want to paint it. If you antifoul first you could end up with a leak.
Thanks for the tip! We will!
Great job bro
Am enjoying watching your channel
Might want to consider a manual bilge pump connection
When it comes to the through hole another inexpensive way to widen them would be to use a drum sander that attaches to your drill with a course sand paper. After you rough it down with a chisel
Put the outlet hose up first before going to the pump otherwise it can syphon back and flood your boat john
A forstener bit is what you need it cuts the wood away as it drills and you don't have a plug. It's just that you need to drill half way through from each side if possible. If not be careful and don't push it hard when it breaks through. I wish I would have thought about it earlier I would have sent you a set.
Really appreciate the work you are putting in. Great edits ,camera work is great ,audio great . MP editing is outstanding . Proud of you guys ,have been here since the beginning .
Much appreciated!
El mejor momento del dia llegó!! uhuuuuuuuuuuuuu \oo/
Put sandpaper on outside of hole saw then sand using drill. Faster than file.
Awesome videos
Glad you like them! Thanks!
You need a Forstner bit too drill those holes
Still awake here in new Zealand 🇳🇿
Important Info: Regarding the WAGO connections. You need to either electrical tape these or better to use “Heat Shrink”. These are great connectors, but with the vibration or the boat, these can release themselves. Heat shrink is best as it’ll protect the connector better.
Amazing work and so looking forward to see you both sailing. 🤙
Perfect timing for MP to drop by for a visit! That transducer installation would’ve been tedious AF to do without a second pair of hands 🤜🤛
Good morning!
be sure to put sika flex on the inside portion of your thru holes not just the outside. you guys are doing a great job, looking forward to splash day!
Can you find anywhere on the hull where there is not going to be a through hull near ! That hull is starting to look like Swiss cheese. Would it not have been better to reduce the through hulls and try to combine some. Every hole just promotes rot and chances of failure.
Leuk om nog eens wat Vlaams te horen bij jullie,...nog véél succes verder ! vriendelijke groeten ,Brian
Can’t wait till you get your float on 😎
Have you thought of flapper valves on the through hulls?
Only for the exhaust
Fast and furious! You guys are killing it. 😎 So much progress in so short a time. Love these videos! 😎🥰❤️❤️❤️
I've seen this comment here but a one wat valve on the bilge outlet would be a safe way to go.
The music was great the content was fun and the editing was wonderful. I don't know how you are doing it daily. Thanks!
Looking good, making a lot of good progress.
So enjoyed this content - you guys are making your followers feel like family with all these extra episodes.
MP, I believe the reason your light flicker when the pump turns on may be that your wire gauge you are using to feed power to the pump may be too small. (the pump draws a lot of power when it first starts.) Other option would be to feed the lights from their own source of power that isn't shared with the pump.
Hi! We believe the problem is the 220V transformer we are using, that can’t tolerate high amps. We will know for sure when we install the batteries ☺️
Thank you
Have a great weekend beautiful
When you do final install of the transducer, make sure it s face is level.
Even there is a timeline….. time off is important too!!! 🤣💊🎉😇
You might want backflow valves on your through hulls, especially bilge lines near water line
Definitely!
Thanks for the beautiful veiw you started with, and for taking us on this rebuild journey with you all!😂
I could watch you every day.. wait i have been 😊 keep up the hard work!
Yes day 11 of daily Yaba uploads.....i hope you had a nice party...
greetsz from friesland...max...😉😊
Keep on keeping on❤
Ben, I am sure you read that your transducer must be pointed straight down. A small wedge under the through hull can make it so.
Great update, tats a big hole in the bottom of Yaba 👀 Just seal it well 👍👍
Siphoning. Hopefully you are considering it with all those thru-holes.
❤Felicidades😊
Man if i could afford to fly over and help you guys to the finish line i would, me and my grandad have been watching you guys from the start what an epic journey cant wait to see you splash! so excited!! SO JEALOUS!
Love these daily vlogs! You are definately my favourite utube channel. Good luck to you all with your sea quest. You have great attitude and very skilful workers. Keep up the great work guys!!! 👍
Thank you so much!!
These Daily Vlogs Are TEMPORARY --- WTF --- Yep Just 30 Daily Vlogs --- Send Your Appreciation Now --- ???MP & Ben, --- Will You Guys Sell Out❓, Like Roberta Y Duca⁉ A SLOW FLIP‼ Eh⁉ When Did R-n-D Know They We're Selling MSV Odd❓ The Viewers Paying💲 Their Hard Earned 💰 Money To See A Couple Rebuild A Boat To Live On To Travel Around The World--- ONLY ---To See Them CASH OUT‼
One Word --- Just 1 Word --- KARMA ❌
Template Dude . Cable should only go in one time . And sealing it ? Maybe oversized , leaving room for sealant?
But messing around with the cable is the main issue. Lots of luck. ❤️
You both going like Speedy Gonzalis to going in to the water! Good luck to finish your big project!
Hey, hey, hey. That would be Gonzalez! I don't like people misspelling my name.🤣😉
🤣😂🤣@@eddygonzalez6018
nice to hear Ben speak belgisch ... never heard that before☺☺
vijf comma vijf
@@jonkerh 🤔
you will eventually discard those plastic bilge pumps and switch to a large electric motor and brass pump. we had 1/3rd electric motor and a 2 inch hydraulic pump.
G'day guys
GOOD DAY!!!
Kbow it is a bit late in the game for this idea but have you guys thought about a back up smaller motor. Can spin the same prop. If you make the supports now it could be placed with boat in water, Great work guys
Ben you worked so hard to stop Yaba from leaking and now you are putting 4 or 5 big through holes. Now stop that. just kidding awesome with all the bilge pumps. All those views why wont everybody hit thumbs up. come on guys help out. please