Thank you guys for the detailed video. This gave me the courage to tackle my LR4's rear door which has been giving me issues for a long time. I took everything apart exactly as illustrated in your video. I got seriously brave and decided to strip the lock to see if I could pinpoint the problem. Turned out the bigger of the two motors were the problem. I opened the motor and saw a black mess where the brushes are. I cleaned everything out and re-assembled. To my astonishment, the door is working perfectly. Probably won't last another 10years until the brushes are completely worn out, but for now I am happy. Once again, thank you for your brilliant videos. Much appreciated.
Massive thanks for this! I happened to stumble across this last night just in time for me to replace the lock this morning! Taking the door handle off made it 100% easier than needing to grow extra hands and work like a blind gynaecologist! Top work!
Thank you - followed this advice and despite needing to hacksaw a spinning bolt off the window actuator managed to get it completed in about 2 hrs. Which if you minus the head scratching and chin rubbing time would be closer to an hour. I didn't spot the comment below about the two types of latch and ordered the wrong one. I fitted it anyway and it 95% works. The only issue is if you use that specific door for keyless entry it doesn't unlock on the first pull of the handle (guess that is what the extra actuator does) but it opens on the second pull when all the other doors unlock. Also I somehow managed to get my keyfob into a proximity unlock mode. It rather spookily unlocks when you get close enough to touch the handle even if you dont pull it. You guys gave me the confidence to try this myself, I learnt a load and you saved me a fortune, cheers.
Thanks Simon and Tyler, mine literally went this evening in the cold, opting for a eBay special as this had given me the confidence to have a go. Same door too😅 and the front passenger too😮 gunna have a crack this weekend. Thanks a lot 🎉
It worked well for me and following your instructions made me have a working actuator for my rear left door again. 😊 Obviously LR changed the build form of it slightly so when I had the old one taken out and laid it beside the new one swapping the calbles I wasn't sure if it would fit as well - but it worked well. I only had to _help_ the dorhandle to 'catch' the metal lever inside by pulling it slightly from inside while mounting the handle from the outside.
Thanks for the help guys, a very detailed instructional video, great for those of us venturing into the door internals for the first time. My sister won't be moaning at me for getting stuck in the back any more, but that's not always a bad thing... The hardest part was trying to release the 2 clips holding the rear handle cover in place, LR could really have done with putting access holes in the doors
Thanks Gents for a cracking video. Helped my get the Wife's D4 secure again after a lock packed up. Last time one went JLR charged £900 to fix, just done this one for £59.40... and the Missus bought me some beer.... result!!!
Fantastic video, I followed it easily enough but couldn’t get the door card back on at the end. Had to removed the speaker and the window mechanism to release more of the door lock cable... once done it all fitted back easily! Thanks guys!
I did this job today, thanks for your video. It turns out the door latch was replaced previously by someone who unfortunately hadn’t watched your videos, and consequently they had snapped off both the connector to the interior door handle, and the clip which holds the exterior cable release to the door latch mechanism, and bodged them with epoxy which I had to remove to install. I made the mistake of closing the door, and then realised it wouldn’t open. You know that feeling when you realise you’ve cocked up, and your wife says ‘this is why you should let the professionals to it’. It was one of those moments. Not someone who gives up easily, I decided to rectify my error. If you’d like to know whether it’s possible to do this very job from the inside of the car with the door closed (remove the door card, window mechanism and exterior handle) without breaking anything, I can tell you the answer is YES - because I did it today. My hands are pretty shredded, but I managed to get the door open without breaking any clips. I suspect my piano playing ‘desk job’ hands were slight enough to get in there. I think a mechanic’s hands would struggle to do the same. Anyway, if upon removing the cables you find the fixings broken, order new ones, don’t risk it. The alternative (cutting off the door) is by all accounts an expensive fix that for a good half an hour I though was going to be my destiny. I’ll admit I was cursing modern car complexity as the blood dripped into my shoes…..
Great video. I’ve just done this on my 2007 Range Rover Sport and it’s basically the same process. I took it one step further and replaced the two electric motors inside the original actuator which I picked up for £15 on eBay. These are what fail on the actuator, mechanically the rest of it is usually fine. I think this is better than going for aftermarket ones which aren’t as good quality as the originals as you said and second hand ones are likely to fail sooner depending on age and mileage. Removing handles definitely the way to go as it’s simple enough and you can spend hours trying to remove the cables inside the car and the clips are easily damaged. Cheers
@@L663 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284165013417 It was pretty simple once you open up the casing (had to drill out a rivet on the back ones but not the front) remove a few screws, a spring, and the plastic door open sensor. With cover removed, lift out the plastic slider arm and gently lever out the motors off the two prong connectors.
@@L663 Hi Simon, Fantastic vids by yourself and your various colleagues. Matchan is absolutely right...the motor change is the way to go. Checkout this...ua-cam.com/video/dktMnFKuMMI/v-deo.html....by Iain Taylor.....by watching you and him I have done all my doors....brilliant. please keep the vids coming....would love to see some about updating ECUs with the IID.......whitch ones are important etc.....
I’m getting intermittent opening of the rear ns door lock, do you think this is the motor failing? Sometimes it unlocks, other times it doesn’t. I should add the car has keyless entry. I might take off the door card and investigate further
@@Himoutdoors Yes it sounds like it. When mine (2007 RRS) started to fail it would lock and unlock sometimes and then not at other times. On mine, if you kept pressing the open button on the fob it would eventually work. If it is only one door that has a problem I doubt it is a problem with the keyless entry but I don’t have this on mine.
Well done again Simon and Tylor...clearly a job needing patience and a planned approach. I just hope my locks stay well...and that my JLR guarantee doesn’t run out before they break! Good work again! Richard🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻😃😃😃😃😃
Followed the tutorial ;) to the letter, worked a charm ! Took me about 2 hours, taking it easy. Actually easier to do then my old D2, where you had to remove part of the window guides. Brilliant, thanks a bunch !
Very helpful, just need to add info guys that there are 2 types of locks, one like on your clip and second one with an extra actuator and second plug with 4 pins, which is for keyless entry models 👍🏻
@@L663 I will have to pay a visit to the shop if I can make it out there :) Thank you again, I will be working on my LR3 with greater confidence and clarity because of you guys :)
Great video guys, helped me no end. I did find that there was no need to remove the window mechanism though - just had to move it to the left (obviously right, if you are doing the NSR)
Yes i think it made it simpler for the video and also helped people who want to change the window mechanism but thanks for confirming it is not needed.
Hiya gents. Brilliant video. On my RRS the outer door handle has stopped working and the child lock is on. Guessing the outer handle cable has gone or that part of the mechanism. Do you think it’s possible to remove the door card and get access to the door latch with the rear door shut? Thanks M
Great video guys. When buying the actuators, do they have to be specifically for each door- ie front LHS door, rear RHS door, or is one compatible for each door. Thanks in advance
Hi there Have a problem with my rear right door when it doesnt lock, the car says the door is open even when it is closed and when im trying to lock it with the remote it does a funny beep. is the solution to replace the door latch actuator or can u bypass the door sensor system?
Once all this is changed over (and a new cable for me) will the wireless entry start working again on that door, or do I need to buy a new antenna etc. if so where is it located
Thank you guys for the detailed video. This gave me the courage to tackle my LR4's rear door which has been giving me issues for a long time. I took everything apart exactly as illustrated in your video. I got seriously brave and decided to strip the lock to see if I could pinpoint the problem. Turned out the bigger of the two motors were the problem. I opened the motor and saw a black mess where the brushes are. I cleaned everything out and re-assembled. To my astonishment, the door is working perfectly. Probably won't last another 10years until the brushes are completely worn out, but for now I am happy. Once again, thank you for your brilliant videos. Much appreciated.
Massive thanks for this! I happened to stumble across this last night just in time for me to replace the lock this morning!
Taking the door handle off made it 100% easier than needing to grow extra hands and work like a blind gynaecologist!
Top work!
Yes a bit more work but saves a lot of pain - thanks for the gynaecologist analogy - I wont look at door handle the same again !
Thank you - followed this advice and despite needing to hacksaw a spinning bolt off the window actuator managed to get it completed in about 2 hrs. Which if you minus the head scratching and chin rubbing time would be closer to an hour. I didn't spot the comment below about the two types of latch and ordered the wrong one. I fitted it anyway and it 95% works. The only issue is if you use that specific door for keyless entry it doesn't unlock on the first pull of the handle (guess that is what the extra actuator does) but it opens on the second pull when all the other doors unlock. Also I somehow managed to get my keyfob into a proximity unlock mode. It rather spookily unlocks when you get close enough to touch the handle even if you dont pull it.
You guys gave me the confidence to try this myself, I learnt a load and you saved me a fortune, cheers.
Yes thanks for your comments they may help others with keyless entry
Thanks Simon and Tyler, mine literally went this evening in the cold, opting for a eBay special as this had given me the confidence to have a go. Same door too😅 and the front passenger too😮 gunna have a crack this weekend. Thanks a lot 🎉
Good luck !
@@L663 thanks guys.
It worked well for me and following your instructions made me have a working actuator for my rear left door again. 😊
Obviously LR changed the build form of it slightly so when I had the old one taken out and laid it beside the new one swapping the calbles I wasn't sure if it would fit as well - but it worked well. I only had to _help_ the dorhandle to 'catch' the metal lever inside by pulling it slightly from inside while mounting the handle from the outside.
Thanks for the help guys, a very detailed instructional video, great for those of us venturing into the door internals for the first time. My sister won't be moaning at me for getting stuck in the back any more, but that's not always a bad thing...
The hardest part was trying to release the 2 clips holding the rear handle cover in place, LR could really have done with putting access holes in the doors
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Gents for a cracking video. Helped my get the Wife's D4 secure again after a lock packed up. Last time one went JLR charged £900 to fix, just done this one for £59.40... and the Missus bought me some beer.... result!!!
Beer and top man points - sounds like a good weekend !
Fantastic video, I followed it easily enough but couldn’t get the door card back on at the end. Had to removed the speaker and the window mechanism to release more of the door lock cable... once done it all fitted back easily! Thanks guys!
I did this job today, thanks for your video.
It turns out the door latch was replaced previously by someone who unfortunately hadn’t watched your videos, and consequently they had snapped off both the connector to the interior door handle, and the clip which holds the exterior cable release to the door latch mechanism, and bodged them with epoxy which I had to remove to install.
I made the mistake of closing the door, and then realised it wouldn’t open. You know that feeling when you realise you’ve cocked up, and your wife says ‘this is why you should let the professionals to it’. It was one of those moments.
Not someone who gives up easily, I decided to rectify my error.
If you’d like to know whether it’s possible to do this very job from the inside of the car with the door closed (remove the door card, window mechanism and exterior handle) without breaking anything, I can tell you the answer is YES - because I did it today. My hands are pretty shredded, but I managed to get the door open without breaking any clips.
I suspect my piano playing ‘desk job’ hands were slight enough to get in there. I think a mechanic’s hands would struggle to do the same.
Anyway, if upon removing the cables you find the fixings broken, order new ones, don’t risk it. The alternative (cutting off the door) is by all accounts an expensive fix that for a good half an hour I though was going to be my destiny.
I’ll admit I was cursing modern car complexity as the blood dripped into my shoes…..
Just did my D3 drivers side passenger door, so glad you guys do these videos, makes life so much easier. Thank you..👍
Glad to help
Great video. I’ve just done this on my 2007 Range Rover Sport and it’s basically the same process. I took it one step further and replaced the two electric motors inside the original actuator which I picked up for £15 on eBay. These are what fail on the actuator, mechanically the rest of it is usually fine. I think this is better than going for aftermarket ones which aren’t as good quality as the originals as you said and second hand ones are likely to fail sooner depending on age and mileage. Removing handles definitely the way to go as it’s simple enough and you can spend hours trying to remove the cables inside the car and the clips are easily damaged.
Cheers
Can you send me a link to the motors you purchased - i may repair the old actuator i removed !
@@L663 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284165013417
It was pretty simple once you open up the casing (had to drill out a rivet on the back ones but not the front) remove a few screws, a spring, and the plastic door open sensor. With cover removed, lift out the plastic slider arm and gently lever out the motors off the two prong connectors.
@@L663 Hi Simon, Fantastic vids by yourself and your various colleagues. Matchan is absolutely right...the motor change is the way to go. Checkout this...ua-cam.com/video/dktMnFKuMMI/v-deo.html....by Iain Taylor.....by watching you and him I have done all my doors....brilliant.
please keep the vids coming....would love to see some about updating ECUs with the IID.......whitch ones are important etc.....
I’m getting intermittent opening of the rear ns door lock, do you think this is the motor failing? Sometimes it unlocks, other times it doesn’t.
I should add the car has keyless entry.
I might take off the door card and investigate further
@@Himoutdoors Yes it sounds like it. When mine (2007 RRS) started to fail it would lock and unlock sometimes and then not at other times. On mine, if you kept pressing the open button on the fob it would eventually work. If it is only one door that has a problem I doubt it is a problem with the keyless entry but I don’t have this on mine.
Well done again Simon and Tylor...clearly a job needing patience and a planned approach. I just hope my locks stay well...and that my JLR guarantee doesn’t run out before they break! Good work again! Richard🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻😃😃😃😃😃
Followed the tutorial ;) to the letter, worked a charm ! Took me about 2 hours, taking it easy. Actually easier to do then my old D2, where you had to remove part of the window guides. Brilliant, thanks a bunch !
Glad it helped - this was our 2nd video and this one is much better !
Very helpful, just need to add info guys that there are 2 types of locks, one like on your clip and second one with an extra actuator and second plug with 4 pins, which is for keyless entry models
👍🏻
Good point - for the flash dudes with keyless entry !
Thank you so much! These videos are tremendously helpful.
Glad it helped..... filmed in Wiltshire .. just like your name !
@@L663 I will have to pay a visit to the shop if I can make it out there :)
Thank you again, I will be working on my LR3 with greater confidence and clarity because of you guys :)
Great video guys, helped me no end. I did find that there was no need to remove the window mechanism though - just had to move it to the left (obviously right, if you are doing the NSR)
Yes i think it made it simpler for the video and also helped people who want to change the window mechanism but thanks for confirming it is not needed.
Although process is longer than previously, it looks easier to do... Thanks great video - as always 👍
Huge thanks for this video, made the job super simple. 👍
Great instructional video. Thanks
Garage wants £160+Vat in labour to fit, so I’ll be doing it myself then….🤣
As always the yellow paint was very helpful.
May the force be with you.
Hiya gents. Brilliant video. On my RRS the outer door handle has stopped working and the child lock is on. Guessing the outer handle cable has gone or that part of the mechanism.
Do you think it’s possible to remove the door card and get access to the door latch with the rear door shut?
Thanks M
Great video guys. When buying the actuators, do they have to be specifically for each door- ie front LHS door, rear RHS door, or is one compatible for each door. Thanks in advance
I believe that they are different depending in which door it is.
Excellent video. Thanks so much
Glad it helped !
Job done! Great video!
Great video gents!
Hi 🙋♂️ another more great 👍 video please can you make video for L405 rear 🌊 electric ⚡️ electric control modules how to replace .
Thanks 🙏 🙏
Thanks and how to reset the window auto up,I try up and hold the button 10 seconds but no luck?
Hi there
Have a problem with my rear right door when it doesnt lock, the car says the door is open even when it is closed and when im trying to lock it with the remote it does a funny beep.
is the solution to replace the door latch actuator or can u bypass the door sensor system?
how do you remove the side back door window? located on the same back door?
How do I open the door so I can change the lock
Thanks :) great video :)
The mans got tuggin on the brain!!!
Can one actuator mess up all doors my disco 3 isn’t locking or unlocking on keys fob but the internal buttons lock and unlock doors any ideas bud
Sounds like key fob issue
@@L663 cheers mate have noticed alarm goes off randomly aswell sometimes won’t do it for awhile then starts playing up again have you experienced this
Is it as easy on a commercial without window coming down
Super
Hello! Thanks For the VIDEO and all de details !!! Wich LAND ROVER code is the cable?? I only find the LR013916 but this one will worK??
see below
www.dropbox.com/s/iabgqctf0srmfya/d3%20rear%20door%20lock%20cable.JPG?dl=0
Am I right in thinking this would fix the fact my rear left door doesn’t unlock when using the key. You can hear it clicking but nothing is working
Yes 99% of the time it is the actuator that fails ...
Once all this is changed over (and a new cable for me) will the wireless entry start working again on that door, or do I need to buy a new antenna etc. if so where is it located
❗️❗️❗️ Warning Explicit Content ❗️❗️❗️ 😄🙏
Always - dont watch our latest "50 shades of grey" video