Electrical in a Post Frame House | Rough In | Part 1
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- We have hired an electrical contractor per our county's rules. Here is the tour of the rough in, what materials are used, etc. Thanks to those of you who caught the box that had been switched around.
Link to the Electrical Box Used
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I am a senior citizen having owned 5 houses and lived in 3 apartments, therefore feel I am qualified to call myself an expert in closet lighting. My experience has shown me that lights in the ceiling of a closet does not do a good job in illuminating the clothes so that one can see the clothes clearly. In our current house I tried some of those LED strips. The most successful installation is to run the strips a few inches above the door frame and down both sides to about waist height. These lights are relatively inexpensive and can be legally ties into most ceiling light fixtures used in closets. Ask your wife for her opinion on closet lighting. As to your videos, I think they are great and I think your building methods are very sound and imaginative (in our area steel walls on homes is not an option ... most builders use plastic siding
One thing I love about being in the building industry is you have to see the end result at the very beginning Going to college for architecture was the best thing I did for my business wanting to have a design build company which I had for 30 plus yrs
I love the update videos. Since there isnt anything worthwhile on tv, your channel is very cool to watch. And way more entertaining. Keep up the good work brother !!
I just love listening to his voice, y’all must agree with me!
I would listen to him read the dictionary
Yeah, ceiling fans ! Inside and out. You won't regret it. Especially outdoors on the those dead calm muggy days.
Thanks!
Always install a led light bar in utility spaces. The brightness is always appreciated by the workers. I always keep a battery plug in light in every major room in case of power loss. Have you considered about backup supplies? A Generac generator and a buried tank for water. I thought how nice it would be to have a firepole to access the shelter room. I would have installed staggered treads to save floor space for the stair. You want to have all openings closable and well protected against flying debris.
Thanks for the tips and comment!
Thank you for your comment about keeping nails out from between the studs at the plate level. I've drilled through my share, not only bad for the bits but hard on the arms and wrist when you get spun around. Great job and a nice neat work area. Been wiring for 30+ years and a clean worksite is priceless.
Nice job you can mount panel so main is on the bottom makes wire management inside the panel a lot neater no service wires hogging up space in panel
I built my house in 1991 and I went crazy with the can lights too, closets and all. I had a total of 54 and bulbs were .99 cents till I moved in and they went to $4.00. All my hallways have outlets, almost all my rooms can be turned on at either end and all the ceiling fans can be turned on and separate from the fan. In my master I have a bay with a seating area in it and from the door or the bed you can turn on the fan, the fan lights and the bay lights. There is so much wire in here that we used 220 to pull 2 home runs and I bet there is a few miles of wire. You can definitely see everywhere! The inspector walked right passed the panel before it was covered and if she knew anything she would have thought the house was wired in 220. She did catch my attic access door though and told me I had to have a 1 hour fire door on it or 5/8 drywall in the attic surrounding the garage.
On my new house, I wired for internet and cable everywhere, but you should wire internet at least to a couple three locations to make your life easier. Also, I install a 2" empty conduit (usually thinwall vacuum pipe) from basement ceiling to attic floor with a pull string in it. It's easy, and saves much heartache later.
Have you thought of running conduit for internet? A house that big would benefit from multiple Wifi Drops.
How about electrical up higher for wall mounted TVs? You could tie in the Ethernet at these locations as most modern TVs are Ethernet compatible.
Great suggestion. Wireless is great and getting better, but anything that is stationary and has Ethernet port should be hard wired to reduce network wireless congestion.
I agree, WiFi will never be as fast, c reliable, or secure as properly installed ethernet.
I suggested this in a previous video. I don’t know if Paul saw it!
You dont need conduit for low voltage, just run smurf tube in enclosed/finished spaces. Runs can run in attic and drop down where needed.
@@nneelix point taken. I was just thinking from the standpoint of upgrades. Internet wiring is improving and conduit might make it easier in the future.
As always more good helpful information! Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise with us. Keep up the great work 👍. Always enjoy your videos.
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.
I stopped using the can lights and went with the LED disks that just clip in to the drywall. It is a lower temp light and if the kids leave the light in the closet on... I don't worry about a fire. Also save $$ on the electric bill. Make sure you get ones that have strong clips. Great videos! thanks.
I think he will still use led can retros. So still minimal heat buildup, but led heatsinks still get quite warm. I like the idea of the pick led for insulation purposes, but knowing they are going to start blinking and fail in the next five years is a little demoralizing.
Reference the lights - where I live, all lights are essentially LEDs. A little more cost associated with installation but the benefits are worth it. I also have many dimmer lights too and the newer LEDs are great for this. Also looking to add a few “smart” lights via app to do away with a switch loop. Basically, the ongoing power cost is negligible and the power rating goes a very long way towards the homes overall efficiency rating which impacts resell price.
All wire standard for the load and safe for the have computation of load that good,GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
Idea light switches for closet motion sensor switch. Goes on and off with motion. Never have light left on all the time. My kid left there lights on all the time. Also used in hallway and in stairway😀
I was always taught that you set your hammer on the floor and mount the outlet just above the top of the hammer head. That light in the bathroom could be installed as a motion switch. You don't want to have to touch any switch after you get out of the shower.
Thanks for the comment!
(On man, So many comments about LAN, hopefully this one is worth the read) I can tell you know your stuff when it comes to construction, I have quite enjoyed watching and learning! Have you started research on WiFi Access Points? I personally have have installed gear from Ubiquiti. I've done ~5000 sqFt homes, all the way up to a house of work that was ~15,000 sqFt. They have a great "eocsystem" that just works (with NO reoccurring fees). Everything from the WiFi AP's, to IP camera's, and it's all tied together with their router and Cloud key hardware (UniFi Dream Machine Pro). I would love to provide any advise, if it's wanted. PS, I'm a Texas boy... YES to the porch fans.
we always do plumbing then hvac then electrical. wires don't give 2 shits where they go. plumbing has major restrictions and hvac has efficiency and large supply/return lines.
2 thumbs up keeping your MEP’s in mind when nailing your plates, that is truly rare...
Hope your putting 2 switches - fan AND light seprate - for your ceiling fans. Hate that single switch install!
i hate installs without remotes. hell i don't know why home depot and lowes don't sell the clapper anymore.
ADA Compliance for Switch Boxes is 48 '' ( Top of the Box ) and for Receptacles it is 18 '' (top of the box ) . Countertop Receptacles are 45 '' up from the floor , bottom of the box.
ADA compliance is top of device for switches, and counter receptacles, and bottom of the device for normal receptacles.
good progress! work as an electrician in Sweden so it is interesting to see how you do. :)
nice instructions as usual. Isn't it easier To do plumbing 1st and then electrical as Wires are more flexible than plumbing? I know you've given thought to where the PLUMBInG is going, But if you just do the plumbing 1st It's 1 less thing you have to worry about, no?
Awesome video. I keep looking at how high that roof still is from the ceiling of the second floor. What are you gonna do with all that space??
Before mounting the box knock out the plug in the middle and drill a .5" hole for the light to got through, Save a step later.
Great info as always
I appreciate that
I worked for an electrician in college and I busted my knuckles too many times from drilling through a top plate and the drill catching a nail. I wish those carpenters had watched this video.
Add a door switch to closet doors, that way when open it the light comes on. No need for a pull switch, just extra work.
I prefer a wall mounted sensor switch, much easier to install...
Looks like you might have missed installing the drywall backing for some of the tops of the walls. Typically used is a 2x6 so it sticked out an inch or so on either side of the wall tops.
Good info man a lot of basic knowledge that you learn over the years of being a tradesman amd on the job. You dont learn this stuff in trade. This more than a trade school in my opinion
I appreciate that
Love the series so far, The build is going nicely. Question what type of internet is available to your new home, will you be using optic fibre, 5G, cable, SAT or other? and will you be using ethernet/ wi-fi or both? A good product for good wi-fi coverage throughout your home is called "Wireless MESH Network" definitely something to look up if you have not already, ethernet is another great option although you may need to pre-wire while you are at the frame stage. Another question is it mandatory to have wired smoke alarms throughout the home where you live? Looking forward to seeing you complete your new home.
The downside of having all of your runs ending in the light switch - is that if you ever trip the breaker for a particular room the lights also lose power... So you could be fumbling around in the dark (potentially) trying to solve an electric issue.
Agree. Lighting and power should be separate circuits. Do not want to be stuck in the dark if you trip a breaker. With LED lighting you can easily get the lighting handled in 1 circuit, 2 if you really like lights.
Yes, when he first said he was home running all circuits into switches, my first thought was why would anyone do that? Lights and power on separate circuits in new builds always.
I like the lights in closets but how about putting them on the front wall of closet so they shine at the back wall instead of from above. Maybe less shadows that way compared to can lights above and maybe partly over the shelf if you have one. I think the front wall is rarely used unless it's a walk in closet.
Down here it is code to have the light switch on the wall side where your door is opening. So it would be to code as you explained with the slidings Doors!
Just a suggestion, but you will be way ahead if you install LED can lights in abundance throughout your house. Ig is dirt simple to do it now and they have gotten to be cheap. You don't need to use the full can lights any more, those are costly. You can get canless recessed lights that are rated to come in contact with insulation. They not only are dirt-cheap, they are far easier to install. Canless recessed lights come with their own junction box box where you connect power to them. They are plug-in connectors. You can get these canless recessed lights for about $12.00 each in bulk on Amazon.
But my main point is that it is far better to have too much light than to have too little. Installing several can lights in each room will only cost you a few hundred dollars and they are dimmable. So if you want less light, all you have to do is dim them. If you have too little light, you are stuck with having to add wiring and can lights after your insulation and drywall have been installed.
One other really cool thing you can do is to install SMART dimmable light switches at each switch outlet. One good brand is FEIT DIM Wifi lights. These FEIT switches work on your wifi system and you can use Alexa or Google assistent to turn them off and on. You can create groups of lights like "All Downstairs Lights" and turn them off with a single voice command - "Alexa, turn off all downstair lights." These FEIT smart switches are $17.00 each on Amazon and they are dimmable. They work really well, I have installed several in my home. These switches also work with two-way light switch connections which is very convenient. Note that you do have to have a neutral wire for these switches to work - but you are probably using a neutral wire for your switches anyway. If you put these smart switches in now, you can control every light in your house with your phone or by voice command and that is incredibly convenient. When you consider that regular dimmer switch costs just as much as these FEIT smart switches, installing the smart switches is a no-brainer. Even regular non-dimmer switches cost $5-$10, so the FEIT switches are a much better choice.
One other thing about the FEIT swiches is that they have a small LED light that is on with they are switched off. This will help your children find the light switches in the dark. However, your children can also use voice commands to turn their light switches off and on with either Alexa or Google Assistant.
Here is the link to the FEIT swiches on Amazon:
www.amazon.com/Feit-Electric-DIM-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07SXDFH38/ref=sr_1_5?crid=CEDZZLR9DDR4&dchild=1&keywords=feit+smart+light+switch&qid=1591124009&sprefix=feit+smart+light+s%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-5
Thanks for all the tips. I have all the cans installed already. Lol. I buy the led trims and have had great luck with those. Maybe on the next build I figure those in. Sound nice.
@@MrPostFrame Hey don't forget the to use smart switch dimmers. If you haven't used them before, they install pretty much like regular dimmer switches but the wiring is a little different. You can install them yourself, you don't need an electrician.
Once you have smart dimmers installed for every light switch, you can easily create groups of lights and control them with one voice command. For example, you can put all of the downstairs lights in the garage in a group and then say, "Alexa, turn off all of the garage lights," and all of the lights will be turned off at once.
Another example that I use at my house. When I walk into the house at night, I say "Alexa I'm home" and a specific group of lights automatically turns on. When I go to bed at night, I say, "Alexa, good night" and all of the lights in my house turn off.
I am installing under cabinet lights in my kitchen. With the smart switch I can say, "Alexa, turn on the cabinet lights," and they will turn on all at once. I have several different light switches in my kitchen, one for 4" can lights, one for a decorative pendant lights over my kitchen island and one for the under cabinet lights. If I am working in the kitchen, I can group these lights together and turn them all on at once before I even get to the kitchen.
The reason I am encouraging you to use this system is because you have a BIG house. Installing smart switches is going to save you a TON of time. And the thing is, you already have installed the necessary wiring and lights, ALL you have to do is install smart switches and link them to you wifi network. Try out some of the switches and I promise you, you will be glad that you did.
I just checked the FEIT switches and they are $14.50 each. Also this is very important, you don't need a smart home hub with these lights,each switch has its own wifi system. All you need to buy is the light switches themselves, and then you can use the Google Assistant or Alexa app to group them all together and easily control them.
I wish you the best with your new home.
I am from EU and watching this, I've realized the vast difference in electrical standards for wiring. In my country this wiring would be unacceptable by any means :) Wire cannot get in contact with wood or any flammable material, two wires for electric plug are not allowed for any new constructions. For commercial building there is even safety measure, that the circuit breaker goes off just by shorting neutral wire. I am watching this and my mind go: "Noooooooo" :)))
Any thought on extra boxes for any tv, phone, networking for anything you may want in the future. Sorry I am a network engineer and prolly over do it compared to the average person on networking. But I will get at least 2 cat5/6 and 1-2 coax to every room in the house. Some rooms like the office or living room where the main tv is going I will run this to each side of the room. Easier to over do it now while the walls are open.
Thanks for the suggestions!
@@MrPostFrame ...as I watched this video I thought the same thing as Ted. With everything electronic these days being WIFI or needing network access it would be wise to do so. I don't know what your family needs are this way but I'm working online all day and my WIFI gets spotty at best or I get kicked off from 2G to 5G....so annoying. So I just hardwired every room from a central hub so now everything that can be networked or hardwired...is. Leaving WIFI to mobile and laptop/portable use. Little extra time and money but way worth it for me and my family as it grows...mostly grows up, LOL!. Thanks for your videos and interacting with your audience.
Paul, you describe all of your home runs as terminating in the switch box for the room; so are you running both the lighting and the outlets from one homerun/breaker?Where I live outlets and lighting must be run to separate breakers, so I'm curious. If your code allows it and your fire insurance affordable- but I also recognize I live in a city and have neighbors close. Great looking job- wish I'd seen it before rewired my first home!
3 days or so from now, you’re gonna wake up and realize that the 2x4 barcode was on the downside of that 2x4. Hopefully sheer rock wasn’t installed.🤪. Great tip on nailing the plates
Do you mark each wire from end to end to be sure you're installing the right wire to the right appliance?
Interesting, I am an Electrician Apprentice in Norway. I must say my trade is quite different from your version.
It is interesting to see how different places require different things. Thanks for watching!
I wish I had run Cat 6 to all my rooms and ceiling for Access Points, and outside for POE camera. Hopefully you have that in your plans..
Thanks for the input!
@@MrPostFrame Hey I know you probably thought about this, but run a 120v receptacle box to the top middle of hallway and stairs for battery exit led lights so if the a storm comes throw you and knocks out power can see your way to your basement shelter. My wife gave me grief over them and when the tornado horn sounded and we lost power she said that was the best money spent. When you are woken in the middle of the night and you have kids, it makes it nice to see the path to safety.
Nice Take care sir...
Coming along great hero the good work up all the best colin an family ..... how long you think till move in .....
Cans in the insulated ceiling are virtually impossible to air seal and detail correctly. They result in a bunch of holes in the insulation plane. There are low cost surface mount led fixtures that are brighter and address this issue. Cans are a bad old school habit.
Another great video. Your attention to detail is phenomenal. You're doing a very clean and thoughtful job on the electrical. I want to mention a few suggestions/concerns. Your idea of using the 2" EMT to sleeve the Romex into the panel keeps it clean, but there are 2 issues with that - first of all you have the issue of conduit "fill" which is whether the wire will physically fit into the conduit. Looks like you are fine there (so far at least). The second consideration, which is often overlooked is bundling derating, and this one's going to bite you from what I saw. NEC 310.16 and 310.15 tables address this. Basically, regardless of conduit size, you are limited to how many current-carrying conductors you can install in the pipe. Over 3 CCC's and you have to derate the wiring according to 310.15. I run multiple smaller conduits to avoid this issue. This does not apply to a "nipple" 24" or less with no bends, btw. Another suggestion is to go from your LB's through the wall into a big junction box. This would give you a box to properly terminate your Romex with connectors, cut down on your physical pipe fill and give you a place to splice any split circuits you wind up with, You could also mount a ground bar in it and just run 1 ground into the panel. If you do this, the box needs to remain accessible. An attic access right under the box will make you glad you did it. As far as bringing ALL of your HRs into switch boxes...makes no sense to me if it's a plug circuit. Fan boxes - use at least (2) #10 screws and not black oxide ones - just a strong suggestion, but actually Code here. Your inspector may require special fan boxes with hefty screws. If you are going to use blown-in insulation in the ceiling, make sure you have IC rated cans (I'm sure you do). I've been following your build closely and come here mostly to learn and to admire your workmanship. This is the one thing, after 34 yrs in the trade I am knowledgeable enough to make suggestions on. Otherwise would not have any critique on the amazing job you are doing.
I agree with these comments and will add that ceiling fan boxes must be listed and labeled for such purpose as required by NEC 314.27 (C). Besides, wouldn't you want more than a few screw threads holding your fans up?
Derating and fill do not apply to 24" nipples or less. It would appear the run from pull box to the load center is less than 24" and would therefore qualify under the nipple exemption in the NEC. However NM is required to be stapled/fixed within 8" of exiting an enclosure. The inspector may call out the lack of staples and/or clamps on the load center. At a minimum make sure to staple the cables as soon as they exit the stub out.
Thanks for your tips. Really appreciate it. I will definitely talk this over with my electrician. Does the 6 ccc’s also include if I run THHN wire through to the junction box? I think that’s the only thing according to your message, like you said that might be a problem.
@@MrPostFrame A current carrying conductor would basically be all of your hots and neutrals, regardless of what type of wire they are. Normally, I'd try to avoid any unnecessary splices, but I can think of 4 positives to splicing in the J-box and running THHN into the panel. First (and this is a Code issue I saw an inspector call someone on), I believe the actual conductors inside the NM (Romex) have no markings on them, so you will then have a non-UL Listed wire in the pipe (if you just unsheath the NM and run the hots/neuts with no splicing). Saw this when some guys were unsheathing MC cable in a parking lot and the Inspector questioned them. Second positive would be if you ever wanted to splice into any circuit, you'd already have a junction there with enough slack in the wiring. The third positive would be putting a ground bar in the J-box and getting rid of all those bare grounds going into your panel. If you do this, tap the ground bar mounting holes and use the machine screws provided (probably #10-32) , Then I'd run (1) #6 THHN Green from j-box to panel in each conduit. Forth positive (and I am actually this anal lol) is that your panel can be perfectly black-red-black-red down each side. Now if, in fact, your nipple is 24" or less, with no bends, the derating doesn't apply and you can ignore it. Only part I'm not 100% is the condulet (LB) - I'm not sure if this would be included in the 24" or if it would be considered a bend. Personally speaking, I hate bare grounds, especially in a panel and do not like NM cable brought in without a clamp. I also like the flexibility the J-box offers and having a nice clean panel. If you run a few spare circuits into the box, you can avoid having to get back into your nice panel when you want to add a circuit later, as well. Sorry for the novel here, just wanted to give you all the angles I see.
I calculated the deration from what I can see from your video you have 8 nm cables running in the right 2" conduit. Assuming all the cables are 12-2 that would be 16 current carrying conductors. The deration of the wire is now 15A. Aldo the LB is not a junction box it is a condulet which makes it part conduit. Thus the 24" nipple rule has been exceeded. I suggest installing a 24" trough or wireway in place of the lb's.
Hi Paul awesome job...!! my opinion to run a separate G.I flexible conduit for the electrical cable individually... CHEERS!!
So what is G. I flexible conduit? Love to see this reply.
@@MrShockman10 I assume he means galvanised iron flexible conduit. Would seem like overkill to me
@@iantrevor303 not all to fix in G.I, is only the end point such as lighting or power point.
I am curious as to what brand (and size) of one piece tub/shower you are using. It looks like good quality. Can you please let me know. Thanks, Steve.... (I really enjoy watching your channel and project. You are very talented!)
Thanks you. The shower is a Maax TS3060, they are very well built.
greetings paul; why did you not do a diagonal cross measurement and then you would automatically have your center. you can do it with chalk lines just as well if not even easier. please enlighten me.........g
Great stuff as always. (Haven't been this early before! 0 views, 0 comments / likes)
Not sure those lightx in closet are legal they cant be near combustibles, i would check code in your area if u haventt . K love your videos
Recognizing that risk, the NEC prohibits the use of exposed, bare, or uncovered incandescent lamps in clothes closets. It does permit the use of listed surface-mounted or recessed fixtures, but imposes strict requirements on their placement (see illustration). images.app.goo.gl/sCUGr36kunLwn4cm8
@@larrymashburn7789 ty larry i didnt know
Great video
So do you plan on setting up a solar setup with the house in future or no? Also do you use the same wire for a light and a plug socket?
I’ve thought about it. I pretty much run all 12 gauge wire on 20 amp circuits.
@@MrPostFrame That is the correct wire size to run. Do you understand the NEC at all?
Run Cat5 cable now
All those can lights. Have you thought about going with LED lights to save on electric bills down the road?
I use led trims
@@MrPostFrame I used the Halo Model # RL560WH6940R in my remodel, loved them! I took my 1977 granndy shack to a cool 4000K with just installing these.
Your spending more money on cans and bulbs than you would with LED puck lights.
Paul, with the joist hangers supporting the ceiling 2x4 grid are those going to interfere with the drywall and cause it to bump down a bit and give a wavy ceiling appearance?
No. You won’t be able to tell at all.
Im waiting for the drywall phase.
No network/Ethernet ?
I was thinking the same thing. :-)
I think that you will most likely need to change the fan boxes! they need to be an approved "Fan Box"! I use to do then the way you did, but now the code calls for a approved box! (that is unless your local code doesn't requirement. Just saying!
This is how I’ve always done them but that does mean the inspector on this job won’t want something different. Time will tell.
@@MrPostFrame Thanks for getting back with me! I teach electrical at a local community college and know that they boxes need to have a weight capacity for what ever is to hang from them. You did them just like I did in my house! but that was 30 years ago! I really like following you in this series. You take the time to explain just how you are doing things. Watching you along with other UA-cam channels, is better than commercial TV!! Keep up the good work!!
What about bathroom exhaust fans?
I'll cover those in another video.
Are you gonna have USB boxes for easier charging for devices ... I've seen some newer houses doing this nowadays
Definitely in our office. Maybe a few other places too.
@@MrPostFrame Combination receptacles. Watch the rating of the USBs as some cut power between them when they have multiple USB outlets per device.
Are you putting wire in for cameras, network, intercom and phones?
Cameras and network
You're not using electrical conduit?
how are you keeping your roofing metal from condensating and dripping everywhere,the is no radiant barrier under it
There will be a vapor barrier on the ceiling before it is finished off.
This has been asked in every video you post . And your comment is always the same. It’s clear we think you have made a mistake and we would like to know how your going to prevent condensation and your roof trusses from rotting out over time.
Do you plan on installing Ethernet in the house?
Yes
Are you putting in central vac ? Well worth it.
We aren't planning on it. We've never had one, what do you like most about it?
If have allergies, central vacuum removes all the dust out of the house not allowing it to recirculate like an upright vacuum would. Otherwise it's either you want to drag an electrical cord (upright) or a 30' vacuum hose (CV).
Hi ,what will you use for sound insulation between the rooms?
Rock wool insulation
Do you plan to run ethernet cables to the rooms?
Yes Sir.
Hay brother are u saying a home run is the power source? Then u splice from there. Cal me a rookie for electrical and plumbing .
Yes. The wire coming from the panel supplying the power
14:40 I wish all framers understood that
Did you figure the ampacity correction with the romex in that pipe?
Rich Lawerence You can’t be serious... yes, an inspector. Here is your red slip. See you for the re-inspection.
Rich Lawerence you can’t be serious! Read the code book. It even tells you how to figure the size for NM cable when figuring. It will also tell you that striping the sheath does not change fill and the conductors are rates by manufacture as an assembly. Yes, had my masters for 35 years, got a degree and became an inspector. I have seen hundreds of guys like you that think they know something but will not take the time to learn and expect people like me to tell you. Hell, that is how I make a living. I school engineers that do government contracts using the NEC and or the British standards. I do both. When doing embassies overseas they think they can skirt by by saying it is ok in the British standards then I show them I am also a master in British standards too. Don’t be lazy and learn for once and you will remember this for the rest of your life. That is the only way to truly learn is to do your due diligence with your code book.
Rich Lawerence you can’t hide after being called out Rich. All conductors in a pipe longer than 24” (nipple) are subject to ampacity adjustments. As for your claim that you can’t install NM-B in pipe... incorrect and NM-B is legal in type lll, lV, V Construction. ua-cam.com/video/g-RUGEXiFW8/v-deo.html
what about bathroom fan and dryer vent will they be vented outside ?? or the addict ? will you have a bathroom fan ?
Yes vented outside. I will have them.
GOOD
Thanks!
Strange you do not add more insulation. Who knows what heating and cooling will cost in ten years, in the UK we would look at 100mm or 4” minimum. Also why not use LED lights.
There will be bat insulation put in to fill the remaining void. All light will be led.
No LEDs? Or are you just going to get bulbs?
I get the led trims
THHN refers to the Temp Rating of the insulation of the conductor , usually 90 degrees C !
hola soy electricista matriculado en argentina y la verdad que jamas en la vida haria una instalacion electrica asi de precaria se que es es standart en eeuu pero la verdad es malisimo.
ademas de que tienen 110 v y el doble de corriente por los cables usan cables pegados con tachuelas y seguro golpeados al colocarlas en ves de cañerias plasticas o metalicas
en argentina esta prohibido realizar asi una instalacion
es por eso que el departamento de bomberos trabaja tan poco aca
esta instalacion dice a gritos FUEGOOOO
no se ve en este capitulo pero creo que tampoco usan disyuntor(mide las fugas a tierra)
deberian aprender de los alemanes igual que nosotros.
What size is the elect. panel?
200 amp - 60 space
WHY are YOU using Metal Boxes instead of not using Blue PVC Boxes for your Ceiling Fan/Lights ???
I use the metal boxes for the ceiling fans because they are way stronger than a plastic box and will last forever with a fan on them.
@@MrPostFrame ; PVC Round '' Blue '' Boxes with the steel bar hangers that are Blocked properly with 2x4's between the ceiling joists are just as strong as Metal Boxes used for Ceiling Fans with Light kits ! I know because I'm a Licensed Journeyman Electrician with over 52 years in the Trade and I have been using them for years !
@@MrPostFrame i go along with paul. i was an electrician, before i retired, and worked at it for 50+ years. i have always used metal boxes and they are easier to install rather than all the extra rigging just to use plastic. you still have the option to enhance the metal boxes if so desired. hang that fan and let it blow..........g
Why is it that your using can lighting rather than J boxes that except Halo LED lights that you can pick up at Home Depot for around $20 bucks per?
You can still install LEDs in the cans.
I use led trims.
@@gtuttle4 Yes, I know that you can still use LEDs in cans but from what I understand is that they are more expensive than what I said above.
@@robertlaird6746 Yes, you are correct, they are more expensive, I think he has already purchase them.
@@gtuttle4 Probably so. I'm using the Halo with a J box and am installing them now. I need more to finish the job and hopefully The Home Depot has more of the same so that they match.
2nd
Can we make the next video shirtless?
110 вольт против 220. Чего вы боитесь.Я Из Санкт-Петербурга. Россия. 110 volts against 220. What are you afraid of? I am from St. Petersburg. Russia.
Uhuuuu