I love watching the gear show even though I'm never gonna ice climb.You're just very good at explaining gear and talking about them. Very good to listen to 👍🏼
Grivel G12 is the way :D that thing does pretty much everything not ultra technical... Petzl Lynx for technical stuff and Grivel Air Tech Light for glacier travel.
The automatic crampones can come out of some even most rigid boots when ice climbing. Like the petzl ones, seen on my own experience and that is scary when ice climbing. So, I would go for that ultra rigid Cassin ones cause that look like they will gonna stay forever once you set them on the boot.
And just to make the choice even more complicated we have the Petzl Irvis Hybrid! LOL Great video, I think it is quite informative and updated. I miss the Petzl Lynx but I understand you cannot cover the whole spectrum. Lately I have updated all my crampons and my current choice is the following. - Technical climbing: Petzl Lynx - Not so Technical stuff and chances of stepping too much rock: Petzl Irvis - Ski Touring: Petzl Leopard - BONUS POINTS: For snow couloirs or alpinism where I don't expect much rock scrambling I mix-match a Petz Irvis Hybrid out of my Irvis and Leopard. Buying everything Petzl allows me to swap toe bails, levers, strapañs, etc. I could create a strap on Lynx if I wqnted to! (But it wouldn't make sense)
I have three sets so far. BD Snaggletooth and Sabertooth in the wire gate fronts, then the Petzl Vasak in the flex lock for use with the more flexible Salomon X Alp boots. I purchased the Snaggletooths for the steeper routes on Rainier , that is the crampon I wish I would have gone with a more technical ice climbing crampon for a wider range of usage in owning three sets.
Im looking at the Petzel Vasak or the Sarken crampons. I know the Sarkens might be a bit overkill as most of my trekks will be on moderate climbs, but then again, I don't know as Im just getting into mountaineering. For example, Im looking at climbing Mt. Baker, and some places say vertical spikes are okay, other are saying to avoid it as its more dangerous on less technical terrain.
Which type of crampons do you suggest for climbing upto 6000 meter peaks in Pakistan? These are not available in local markets because the mountaineering teams take them back while going back. Can I make my own crampons for climbing in the Karakuram? How many shoes will be enough for climbing to 22000 feet height?
Im doing the PCT hike this year in a record snow year. Whats the best camprons to use with lightweight minimal boots or trailrunners with mid-hight ankle support?
watching this makes me worry about my crampons lol. A pair of simond alligator crampons that are only attached to my boot by a purple and orange straps in some weird pattern. Pretty sure they're straight from the 90s but hey they were 50$ only used once. Not doing anything too technical yet so they work fine for now:)
Normally the ones strapped to the back of your rucksack. When your half way into that small patch of ground you thought you could just get away with just kicking steps without them.
is there any particular reason why you are interested on those in particular? I am saying because I haven't tried them but I really think that you can't go wrong with the grivel G12 or Petzl Vasak (which I own), true all rounders that don't break the bank (I believe both can be found cheaper than the BD counterparts but could be wrong) and you won't shed a tear everytime you blunt them a bit after an outing. With that being said that front part of the sabretooth looks quite spicy and might come in handy if your all-rounders will find steep hard ice
@@ZOMGerms thanks for the reply! You make a good point about petzl and grivel having cheaper options. My main interest in BD is that their pons are stainless, although it's not like a little surface rust is a big problem...
@@jasonzevenbergen6338 yeah mine have some rust by the tips (similar to what Matt shows), the stainless steel is a nice touch and I guess that rust could accelerate degradation and you might have to sharpen them more often, unfortunately I haven't tried them at all so I am sorry I can't help out with a proper opinion on the BD options!
The sabrethooth are more on the aggresive side, something on you would climb a steep mountain/volcano, the seracs are more on the walking side since the secundary points are as foward as the sabretooth (the secondary points are important for stability when climbing nearly vertical). As for stainless, is matter of personal preferences, most of people who I mountaineer with, loves grivels crampons (they are my second choices) but since I live in a fairly humid and rainy place, I prefer stainless, it seems that rust will eat the steel faster than rock and volcanic debris in this part of the world (chilean lake district/northen patagonia/southern andes). I have a pair of BD contact and they are still going strong even after I repeatedly walk over volcanic rock (summer mountaineer is pretty destructive for soles, ice axes and crampons since the snow metls and patches of debris are exposed) so the steel isn't that soft as some people claim, but the front points are too short for anything steeper than 45°, so I'm looking for the Snaggletooth, the monopoint brother of the sabretooth, you should take a look. Also, skip Petzl, too pricy and for CroMoly steel Grivel is better, for tight budget, Climbing Technology also has cheaper options but are a lot heavier. But keep in mind that the boot chooses the crampons, is better to try how they feel in your feet since you can spend even 12 hours over them.
I need to buy the Petzl Vasak LEVERLOCK binding version but I have a question for the front of the boot. Do the LEVERLOCK come with both FIL and FIL FLEX included or do I need to choose one of them beforehand?
The Petzl FIL (fully auto) are not curved, they are three straight sections. They don't have a good purchase on a La Sportiva front welt. I would not trust them. I changed mine (FIL) out for Salewa wires.
I got 3 pairs or crampons. A full aluminum one. I can just pack them even if i don't really need them (super light). Got one with 12 teeth (horizontal front teeth) for nearly anything. And my third pair is a more technical one with exchangeable vertikal mono/duo front teeth for harder alpine tours and ice climbing. All of those are from different manufacturers (Kong Rutor, Climbing Technology Nuptse Evo and Petzl Lynx) and i like all of them. If you would force me to pick only one i would probably buy something inbetween the universal one and the technical one (like the sarken).
exactly like me, I have a light 10 point super light Petzl irvis hybrid for skimo and when I know that I wont be walking on rock, a 12 point Petzl vasak for almost everything and Grivel G14 with interchangeable vertical front points for vertical ice. I've actually started with the versatile G14's and used it for everything from classical mountaineering routes, ice climbing and also skimo. Then got tired of carrying 2kg of steel and not using it during skimo tours and got the light irvis hybrids, and later got something in between.
I love watching the gear show even though I'm never gonna ice climb.You're just very good at explaining gear and talking about them. Very good to listen to 👍🏼
a tip: you can watch movies at flixzone. Been using them for watching all kinds of movies lately.
Try it, its dope
Got my first ever ice climbing trip planned and couldn’t be more stoked!
Matt, you sold me on the alpinist pro's i absolutely love them and gonna use them on scottish rock/snow/ice in 3 weeks!
Grivel G12 is the way :D that thing does pretty much everything not ultra technical... Petzl Lynx for technical stuff and Grivel Air Tech Light for glacier travel.
Why is g12 so good?
The automatic crampones can come out of some even most rigid boots when ice climbing. Like the petzl ones, seen on my own experience and that is scary when ice climbing. So, I would go for that ultra rigid Cassin ones cause that look like they will gonna stay forever once you set them on the boot.
And just to make the choice even more complicated we have the Petzl Irvis Hybrid! LOL
Great video, I think it is quite informative and updated. I miss the Petzl Lynx but I understand you cannot cover the whole spectrum.
Lately I have updated all my crampons and my current choice is the following.
- Technical climbing: Petzl Lynx
- Not so Technical stuff and chances of stepping too much rock: Petzl Irvis
- Ski Touring: Petzl Leopard
- BONUS POINTS: For snow couloirs or alpinism where I don't expect much rock scrambling I mix-match a Petz Irvis Hybrid out of my Irvis and Leopard.
Buying everything Petzl allows me to swap toe bails, levers, strapañs, etc. I could create a strap on Lynx if I wqnted to! (But it wouldn't make sense)
I have three sets so far. BD Snaggletooth and Sabertooth in the wire gate fronts, then the Petzl Vasak in the flex lock for use with the more flexible Salomon X Alp boots. I purchased the Snaggletooths for the steeper routes on Rainier , that is the crampon I wish I would have gone with a more technical ice climbing crampon for a wider range of usage in owning three sets.
Thank you for this well done and all encompassing review!
Excellent, thank you. My first crampon video and it was a gem
I just recently got the Petzl Dart 2019 version, which I like very much for drytooling and steep waterfall ice.
Black diamond sabretooth pro and grivel g12 are my go to crampons . Want the camp alpinist pros next.
Im looking at the Petzel Vasak or the Sarken crampons. I know the Sarkens might be a bit overkill as most of my trekks will be on moderate climbs, but then again, I don't know as Im just getting into mountaineering. For example, Im looking at climbing Mt. Baker, and some places say vertical spikes are okay, other are saying to avoid it as its more dangerous on less technical terrain.
I basically use the Petzl Lynx for everything. Ice climbing, summer alpinism...
Same :) Also good dry tooling weapons 😁
What about Sarken vs Vasak? Will I notice the difference in comfort walking on snow?
Which type of crampons do you suggest for climbing upto 6000 meter peaks in Pakistan? These are not available in local markets because the mountaineering teams take them back while going back.
Can I make my own crampons for climbing in the Karakuram? How many shoes will be enough for climbing to 22000 feet height?
Im doing the PCT hike this year in a record snow year. Whats the best camprons to use with lightweight minimal boots or trailrunners with mid-hight ankle support?
Great video, thanks 👌
What do you think of Black Diamond Neve Strap Crampons, please?
watching this makes me worry about my crampons lol. A pair of simond alligator crampons that are only attached to my boot by a purple and orange straps in some weird pattern. Pretty sure they're straight from the 90s but hey they were 50$ only used once. Not doing anything too technical yet so they work fine for now:)
Still with us? :)
Normally the ones strapped to the back of your rucksack. When your half way into that small patch of ground you thought you could just get away with just kicking steps without them.
What are your thoughts on the BD Serac or Sabretooth as all rounders? Differences between the two? Thanks to anyone with an answer on this!
is there any particular reason why you are interested on those in particular? I am saying because I haven't tried them but I really think that you can't go wrong with the grivel G12 or Petzl Vasak (which I own), true all rounders that don't break the bank (I believe both can be found cheaper than the BD counterparts but could be wrong) and you won't shed a tear everytime you blunt them a bit after an outing.
With that being said that front part of the sabretooth looks quite spicy and might come in handy if your all-rounders will find steep hard ice
@@ZOMGerms thanks for the reply! You make a good point about petzl and grivel having cheaper options. My main interest in BD is that their pons are stainless, although it's not like a little surface rust is a big problem...
@@jasonzevenbergen6338 yeah mine have some rust by the tips (similar to what Matt shows), the stainless steel is a nice touch and I guess that rust could accelerate degradation and you might have to sharpen them more often, unfortunately I haven't tried them at all so I am sorry I can't help out with a proper opinion on the BD options!
The sabrethooth are more on the aggresive side, something on you would climb a steep mountain/volcano, the seracs are more on the walking side since the secundary points are as foward as the sabretooth (the secondary points are important for stability when climbing nearly vertical). As for stainless, is matter of personal preferences, most of people who I mountaineer with, loves grivels crampons (they are my second choices) but since I live in a fairly humid and rainy place, I prefer stainless, it seems that rust will eat the steel faster than rock and volcanic debris in this part of the world (chilean lake district/northen patagonia/southern andes). I have a pair of BD contact and they are still going strong even after I repeatedly walk over volcanic rock (summer mountaineer is pretty destructive for soles, ice axes and crampons since the snow metls and patches of debris are exposed) so the steel isn't that soft as some people claim, but the front points are too short for anything steeper than 45°, so I'm looking for the Snaggletooth, the monopoint brother of the sabretooth, you should take a look. Also, skip Petzl, too pricy and for CroMoly steel Grivel is better, for tight budget, Climbing Technology also has cheaper options but are a lot heavier. But keep in mind that the boot chooses the crampons, is better to try how they feel in your feet since you can spend even 12 hours over them.
@@731Seba Thanks for the great info!
can you explain which is better Grivel air tech with belt system or same brand with auto locking system? thanks
I’m still using ice fangs 😂🤣. Literally the staple of the 80s and 90s
This is sooo helpful, thanks very much!
I need to buy the Petzl Vasak LEVERLOCK binding version but I have a question for the front of the boot. Do the LEVERLOCK come with both FIL and FIL FLEX included or do I need to choose one of them beforehand?
The Petzl FIL (fully auto) are not curved, they are three straight sections. They don't have a good purchase on a La Sportiva front welt. I would not trust them. I changed mine (FIL) out for Salewa wires.
Weapon of a Crampon is my new favourite insult, thankyou.
can you please suggest crampons for la sportiva
olympus mons cube?
I'm just a simple backpacker with microspikes lol..these things look beastly😳
It depends where you go
I got 3 pairs or crampons. A full aluminum one. I can just pack them even if i don't really need them (super light). Got one with 12 teeth (horizontal front teeth) for nearly anything. And my third pair is a more technical one with exchangeable vertikal mono/duo front teeth for harder alpine tours and ice climbing.
All of those are from different manufacturers (Kong Rutor, Climbing Technology Nuptse Evo and Petzl Lynx) and i like all of them.
If you would force me to pick only one i would probably buy something inbetween the universal one and the technical one (like the sarken).
exactly like me, I have a light 10 point super light Petzl irvis hybrid for skimo and when I know that I wont be walking on rock, a 12 point Petzl vasak for almost everything and Grivel G14 with interchangeable vertical front points for vertical ice. I've actually started with the versatile G14's and used it for everything from classical mountaineering routes, ice climbing and also skimo. Then got tired of carrying 2kg of steel and not using it during skimo tours and got the light irvis hybrids, and later got something in between.
Always a problem with frozen rock....and i had that more than once in austria, switserland, italy..... Some have steel front, aluminium rear...
Love this guy, hear him say leopard? 😂😂
What do people think of the Rambo 4? Anyone know if it fits the Nepal Extremes?
What’s the name of your mountaineering shoes??😳
arcteryx acrux
Its means mountains climbing also needs money,without good budget u don't even think about any kind of expedition or sustain with climbing community
Nothing unusual. Belonging to any community will require some cash outlay.
I thought it said what kind of tampons do I need
Yo amigos
WTF does faff and Snazzy mean!?
damnit why is ice climbing such a rich person sport
just 3 item cost me $700