I retired my faithful Chouinard Zero’s (old & heavy) for the Petzl Gully’s. Had to add the pick weights to them to make them swing/arrestable. Have been finding a lot of the modern lightweight axes are more of an emergency carry for navigating steep ground. But, being an old sweat, I guess newer climbers would learn to use more force from day one rather than letting a heavier axe do some of the work for you.
It is much more energy fficient to swing a light axe faster than to swing a heavier axe a lot slower. I have an array of ice axes (2 Nomics, 2 Quarks, 1 Summit Evo and 1 Gully) and it is just a matter of choosing the right tool for the job. If you overshoot it, you will end up carrying heavier axes than really needed. On the other hand, if you encounter blue ice when carrying a ligtweight skimo axe... well... you will have a hell of a time. I have also owned and used old Charlet Pulsars (the straight shafted ones) and trust me, ANY new axe is waaaaaaaay better. In between I have owned a few more models (BD Vipers, BD Fusion, old Quarks...).
I one climbed the couturier couloir on the aiguille verte with some old Simond aces very similar to the gully. I spend a lot of the time wishing for heavier axes but still made it up. Then I didn’t once think about the weight on the way down.. haha. I fully agree it’s better to have the right tool for the job and more often that not that means having a proper tool/set of tools.
For general mountaineering/walking stick ice axes i swear on the black diamond raven and raven pro. The head on them is so comfortable, it doesn’t even compare to other ice axes. On longer ascents this really makes a difference (currently using a CT alpine tour for that)
Really nice informative video. It's nice to get input from a guide on why he like/uses his gear. Personally i love my Grivel tools. Especially the North Machines and Dark machines. The big hole on the head for clipping and modularity.
Thanks Dave, I'm currently in a bit of a catch 22 situation, I have a long (65cm) walking axe, I have used walking crampons and never as yet pushed the limits due to being out alone. So the quandry is do I buy a pair of tools, maybe Quarks or similar but have a gap between, or move the long axe and buy something like the sum'tec then a pair of something else. Obvious question is what I'll be doing, but the catch 22 is that without the tools I can't do the kind of things i'd like to! SO do I write off £40 (or just park it in the closet) and start again, bear in mind I have B2s and Grivel G12s. Climbs so far HVD and G3 solo. Option 1 is a pair of something moderate, sum'tec, DMM cirque or similar that will do a lot quite well but nothing fantastic, but will pair quite well with the feet, or a single adze for now and add a matching hammer tool later, 55cm or so. Option 2 is keep the walking axe and buy a pair of quarks, Cassin X- All Mountain or similar and choose what one or two fits the day best but I think maybe the pressed flat front points may be holding back the tools, not me. Obviously I can upgrade crampons in future but I feel quarks etc (this class of tools) are 'better' the the feet in this scenario. I have very limited experience on vertical ice (2hrs in Kinlochleven indoor) and my use will likely be a mix of walking, gullies, scrambles and ridges but I want to be able to say yes to more, like Cogne, Alps, Scottish mixed and possibly Scandinavia. What I'm reluctant to do is spend £250 on a pair of something that can do it all, only to spend the same again in a year or 2. Apologies for the essay but living in the midlands is limiting, Wales doesn't have much these days so It's Scotland or Europe for ice and snow.
Hi matt, I’d probably suggest that something in the quark class of tools would be the most logical step for you. You can always swap in the walking axe in some situations but you can have some fabulous adventures with a pair of quarks. As for the crampons and maybe boots that will be upgraded in due time but the quarks you can grow into and you really don’t need anything more like a mimic until you start climbing grade wi5 or grade 6 Scottish routes. Hope that helps!
@@DaveSearle it really does, my major concern was that buying something in the class of the quarks would be way off, more than I can handle/need and way ahead of my boots/crampons. But buying a pair of something lesser (/inbetween, not necessarily lesser) seems a bit of a false economy in some ways. If the right thing (mountaineering axe, 55cm or so) pops up second hand then I may do it, so 40 quid isn't a lot to have sitting around doing nothing with the walking axe I currently have. Then the choice is what to take on 'easy' scrambles where the difference in tool weight would be negligible between a quark and my walking axe, but the walk in tends to be substantial and potentially consequential. That's where a single mountaineering axe would shine and be the obvious choice. Reading this back I think I've answered my own question! Thanks for your advice, much appreciated 👍👍
What do you think about shaft length? I'm doubting between the Glacier Literide and Summit. I'm starting with general glacier mountaineering and more interested in skitouring than ice climbing. I'm 6'1 and 50cm of the Glacier Literide seems short, though the lower weight is very tempting. Will the Glacier Literide double better for skitouring moments?
I’d say if in doubt go with the glacier lightride and 50cm is a pretty good length for most people. You are not really notice a short tool on a snowy ridge climb but that is more about good footwork than having a long axe.
I’d never again get an ice axe without grip rest. I have a straight shafted Grivel Ice Axe without grip rest and it’s extremely slippery once the shaft and your gloves are covered in snow and ice. The Petzl Sum’Tec is much much better in every regard and I can’t think of any scenario where I’d prefer the straight shafted axe. Even for a beginner who’s mostly using it as a walking stick. The Sum’Tec is perfect for steeper slopes using the dagger grip position right under the head with the grip rest slid upwards.
Hey 👋, I have a pair of gully that i like a lot. I like moving fast in the mountains so i use them for ski mountaineering but also general mountaineering and easy ice climbing. Basically everything apart from serious ice. I'm thinking that the perfect combo for me could be pair of gully and pair of nomic as i do a bit of everything (for now lending technical tools from friends). What are your thoughts ? The main problem i see is that my main and do it all pair would be the gully so no removable head...
I think that’s a really good set up. You could also consider adding a glacier Literide to that as something that is better for snow anchors and moving on ridges for example.
@@DaveSearle Thanks for your answer :) so you think a pair of nomic would be better than a pair of quark having already the gullys ? Thanks a lot for your awesome videos !
You can buy the Trigrest separately. It is also compatible with the Literide, Ride, Glacier and Summit (not Evo). I am contemplating wether to get a Summit 52 or 59 cm (can't decide, I am 5'11"/180cm) with a Trigrest over the Literide for general mountaineering. It has a more versatile shape and is only slightly heavier. The spike is better than the one on the Ride. It is going to be used alone or to accompany a Gully with hammer.
Great video mate, very useful... I need one mainly for splitboarding and free riding and I am between Petzl Ride , Gully and Grivel Ghost ...but I wonder if the 45cm Ride is too short (I am 6')
I live so deep in south Texas my pet tumble weed only speaks spanish, i will never need this information but i couldnt help but watch. Well done.
made me laugh thanks!
I retired my faithful Chouinard Zero’s (old & heavy) for the Petzl Gully’s. Had to add the pick weights to them to make them swing/arrestable. Have been finding a lot of the modern lightweight axes are more of an emergency carry for navigating steep ground. But, being an old sweat, I guess newer climbers would learn to use more force from day one rather than letting a heavier axe do some of the work for you.
Yeah some of them are too light. How did you add pick weights to the gully?
Standard Petzl weights. Think they call them ‘Masselottes’.
It is much more energy fficient to swing a light axe faster than to swing a heavier axe a lot slower. I have an array of ice axes (2 Nomics, 2 Quarks, 1 Summit Evo and 1 Gully) and it is just a matter of choosing the right tool for the job. If you overshoot it, you will end up carrying heavier axes than really needed. On the other hand, if you encounter blue ice when carrying a ligtweight skimo axe... well... you will have a hell of a time.
I have also owned and used old Charlet Pulsars (the straight shafted ones) and trust me, ANY new axe is waaaaaaaay better. In between I have owned a few more models (BD Vipers, BD Fusion, old Quarks...).
I one climbed the couturier couloir on the aiguille verte with some old Simond aces very similar to the gully. I spend a lot of the time wishing for heavier axes but still made it up. Then I didn’t once think about the weight on the way down.. haha. I fully agree it’s better to have the right tool for the job and more often that not that means having a proper tool/set of tools.
Honestly I keep an old BD behind front living couch in case of intruders
I keep one under my bed
For general mountaineering/walking stick ice axes i swear on the black diamond raven and raven pro. The head on them is so comfortable, it doesn’t even compare to other ice axes. On longer ascents this really makes a difference (currently using a CT alpine tour for that)
Hi Dave! Great videos about gear!! Could you made one about harnesses?? Thanks!!!
I’ll add It to my list.
Really nice informative video. It's nice to get input from a guide on why he like/uses his gear. Personally i love my Grivel tools. Especially the North Machines and Dark machines. The big hole on the head for clipping and modularity.
Thanks!
I have the Grivel North Machine Carbon’s for the same reason. Great tools especially with a Krukonogi pick 👍🏻
@@CaydeSki that's exactly the same combo i have right now. But i tend to use the Grivel katana blades the most for some reason.
Tech Machine for the win!
Thanks Dave, I'm currently in a bit of a catch 22 situation, I have a long (65cm) walking axe, I have used walking crampons and never as yet pushed the limits due to being out alone. So the quandry is do I buy a pair of tools, maybe Quarks or similar but have a gap between, or move the long axe and buy something like the sum'tec then a pair of something else. Obvious question is what I'll be doing, but the catch 22 is that without the tools I can't do the kind of things i'd like to! SO do I write off £40 (or just park it in the closet) and start again, bear in mind I have B2s and Grivel G12s. Climbs so far HVD and G3 solo.
Option 1 is a pair of something moderate, sum'tec, DMM cirque or similar that will do a lot quite well but nothing fantastic, but will pair quite well with the feet, or a single adze for now and add a matching hammer tool later, 55cm or so.
Option 2 is keep the walking axe and buy a pair of quarks, Cassin X- All Mountain or similar and choose what one or two fits the day best but I think maybe the pressed flat front points may be holding back the tools, not me. Obviously I can upgrade crampons in future but I feel quarks etc (this class of tools) are 'better' the the feet in this scenario.
I have very limited experience on vertical ice (2hrs in Kinlochleven indoor) and my use will likely be a mix of walking, gullies, scrambles and ridges but I want to be able to say yes to more, like Cogne, Alps, Scottish mixed and possibly Scandinavia. What I'm reluctant to do is spend £250 on a pair of something that can do it all, only to spend the same again in a year or 2.
Apologies for the essay but living in the midlands is limiting, Wales doesn't have much these days so It's Scotland or Europe for ice and snow.
Hi matt, I’d probably suggest that something in the quark class of tools would be the most logical step for you. You can always swap in the walking axe in some situations but you can have some fabulous adventures with a pair of quarks. As for the crampons and maybe boots that will be upgraded in due time but the quarks you can grow into and you really don’t need anything more like a mimic until you start climbing grade wi5 or grade 6 Scottish routes. Hope that helps!
@@DaveSearle it really does, my major concern was that buying something in the class of the quarks would be way off, more than I can handle/need and way ahead of my boots/crampons. But buying a pair of something lesser (/inbetween, not necessarily lesser) seems a bit of a false economy in some ways. If the right thing (mountaineering axe, 55cm or so) pops up second hand then I may do it, so 40 quid isn't a lot to have sitting around doing nothing with the walking axe I currently have. Then the choice is what to take on 'easy' scrambles where the difference in tool weight would be negligible between a quark and my walking axe, but the walk in tends to be substantial and potentially consequential. That's where a single mountaineering axe would shine and be the obvious choice. Reading this back I think I've answered my own question! Thanks for your advice, much appreciated 👍👍
Great!
What do you think about shaft length? I'm doubting between the Glacier Literide and Summit. I'm starting with general glacier mountaineering and more interested in skitouring than ice climbing. I'm 6'1 and 50cm of the Glacier Literide seems short, though the lower weight is very tempting. Will the Glacier Literide double better for skitouring moments?
I’d say if in doubt go with the glacier lightride and 50cm is a pretty good length for most people. You are not really notice a short tool on a snowy ridge climb but that is more about good footwork than having a long axe.
I’d never again get an ice axe without grip rest. I have a straight shafted Grivel Ice Axe without grip rest and it’s extremely slippery once the shaft and your gloves are covered in snow and ice. The Petzl Sum’Tec is much much better in every regard and I can’t think of any scenario where I’d prefer the straight shafted axe. Even for a beginner who’s mostly using it as a walking stick. The Sum’Tec is perfect for steeper slopes using the dagger grip position right under the head with the grip rest slid upwards.
Hey 👋,
I have a pair of gully that i like a lot. I like moving fast in the mountains so i use them for ski mountaineering but also general mountaineering and easy ice climbing. Basically everything apart from serious ice. I'm thinking that the perfect combo for me could be pair of gully and pair of nomic as i do a bit of everything (for now lending technical tools from friends).
What are your thoughts ?
The main problem i see is that my main and do it all pair would be the gully so no removable head...
I think that’s a really good set up. You could also consider adding a glacier Literide to that as something that is better for snow anchors and moving on ridges for example.
@@DaveSearle Thanks for your answer :) so you think a pair of nomic would be better than a pair of quark having already the gullys ? Thanks a lot for your awesome videos !
I’d say mimics if you plan to do harder technical climbing would be great.
Do you know if you can put the adjustable grip from the gully onto the ride?
Yes you can!
You can buy the Trigrest separately. It is also compatible with the Literide, Ride, Glacier and Summit (not Evo). I am contemplating wether to get a Summit 52 or 59 cm (can't decide, I am 5'11"/180cm) with a Trigrest over the Literide for general mountaineering. It has a more versatile shape and is only slightly heavier. The spike is better than the one on the Ride. It is going to be used alone or to accompany a Gully with hammer.
Great video mate, very useful... I need one mainly for splitboarding and free riding and I am between Petzl Ride , Gully and Grivel Ghost ...but I wonder if the 45cm Ride is too short (I am 6')
I’d say for splitboarding unless you plan to walk on a ridge enough then a short axe is fine!
Good video but just buy Ice axe that's right for the job. Also great idea Is to get something like petzl quark I use my quarks for everything.
Mmmhmm.
Очень познавательное видео 👍🔥💪