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Can We Resurrect this Dead Vizio 60" E600i-B3 TV?
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2022
- In another collaboration with Steve, we diagnose and attempt to repair a Vizio E600i-B3 60" television. This TV presented with no status LED activity or response to pressing the power button. Join us we perform some diagnostics to see if we can revive the patient.
As with all DIY projects, I present these videos as a guide and to show the steps I typically take as well as some of the oopses that could occur. Know your limits, and be safe!
On my tv, it has sound no picture. It went out while watching. When you turn it on the V comes on on goes off. You can see the no signal in the back ground with a flash light. Is T con Board or led's bad?
Might depend on the model. If you can see what is supposed to be displayed using a flashlight, then I would suspect the PCB containing the backlight driver.
So lucky!
Yesterday, a buddy brought me a vizio p602ul-b3 to try to fix. It has been "acting up" for a very long time. He said, something when he turned it on, it wouldn't come on, so he'd have to push the rear power button a few times to get it to "kick in". But it finally died to where it just wouldn't come on at all and no indicator LEDs either.
So he went out and bought a fancy new OLED TV, because he had this Vizio for around 8 years and figured that it wasn't worth the $$$ to fix it.
So he brought it to me as a "kill or cure" thing. LOL
When I took the back off, immediately it was clear that the Power Supply board was at fault.... at least, THE MAJOR part of the fault.
All the large caps (except those long ones) where bulged out at the top. Not good.
Fortunately, I had a bunch of new 1000 uF and 470 uF caps on hand. So I tested each OLD cap as I removed them just to see how bad they had gone. Oh they were BAD... REAL BAD! LOL
So I replaced all the caps. Needless to say, I was excited to see if the set would now finally power on.
But before putting the back on, logically, it was time to reconnect all the cables and plug it in to see if the screen came on.
To our happy surprise, the screen came on normally with the nice big V and then went to the screen with "no signal".... this was good.
So, we put the back on and performed a final test!
WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!?????? It didn't come on right away! He said, THIS is how it was acting for a long time.
So I pushed the power button on the back a couple of times and it came on, but now the image was just wrong. It was corrupted in many areas.
I knew immediately that something is not right with the T-Con board.
We opened it up again and could smell something burning. Sure enough, after a few seconds, a chip on the T-Con board smoked and was toast!
So in analyzing this issue, it became clear that part of the problem, all along was this T-Con board and it was pulling extra current, causing the power supply to fail.
So he had to make a choice if we'd order the kit with 3 new boards or just toss it. He chose to toss it, because he did buy the new TV and figured that it was time to not sink $$$ into the older TV.
I now wonder if with this model, if others have run into the same issue where after fixing the power supply which then allows other boards to now receive proper voltages, they just continue to fail to the point of smoke. Who knows.
Oh well. He does love his new OLED TV though.
This was a one-off favor for our friend. Other than this, I do not fix TVs anymore. That was my main career LONG ago and now is not the time to start doing repairs again. My hubby and I are happily retired and want to keep it that way.
Very interesting! It would not surprise me if more than one board were at fault, especially when there are higher power levels involved. The failing T-CON board could have caused excessive ripple current in the caps, thus causing them to fail. Loss of the caps could then cause instability of the output voltage which then damages downstream components. I think in our case, one of the diodes might have been at fault, causing the power supply board to not get enough voltage to think it needed to activate. We didn't bother trying to dig further.
@@par64guy Yes, I do suspect that the T-Con was possibly the original fault and once the caps on the PS board all failed, there was no voltage being delivered to the T Con. Therefore, there was nothing physical to see... at that point.
Before replacing the caps, I did check all diodes and every one tested just fine. So there was no issue with those.
Once I replaced the caps and the power supply was not doing its job, this is where I think that the failing T Con, with its fault, started to draw heavily again and burning out that component.
I suspect that if our buddy didn't already buy a new OLED TV, he probably would have had me order a T Con board.
The main board seemed fine. I checked the processors under the massive heat sink and there was no evidence of over heating at all. In fact, the newer heat sink with its heat tube that goes to the chassis is clearly an improvement that Vizio did on this model.
Oh well... it's trash now. He did offer it to me, but as I'm no longer in the biz, I really didn't want that huge monster laying around and even if I were to go ahead and fix it, what would I do with it? LOL
We have 8 TVs now and there's no room for any more.
My Vizio, same model,dead no lights anywhere. Voltages on power board very close to the ones of your replacement board. Where do I go from here.
@joebrod1 good question, especially if the voltage are present. It could be the other board with the microcontroller on it.
Thanks, Would that be the T con?
With the new PCB, are these voltages present when the TV Is off? Because right now I'm not getting any voltage from the T CON pins 14 and 15. TV won't turn on.
Does the power button light up, at least briefly? We noticed that this happened when we first applied AC power. How do the other voltages you measured compare to what we measured at 10:42? How does your AC-DET and PS-ON measure? If you swapped the power supply PCB and still have nothing, my next suspect would be the main processor PCB as I believe that is where the control over the power switch and power supply reside to actually command the power supply to turn on. Let me know what you find!
@@par64guy I checked to see if it blinked on at all, but it doesn't appear to. The AC-DET and PS-ON appear fine. As for anomolies, LED-ON, 12V T CON, T CON_ON (pins 11, 14, 15) have no voltage. I haven't tried replacing the power supply yet, as I'm not really confident with where the problem lies.
If LED-ON has a voltage, does that imply that the TV was on when recording these voltages?
Here's a list of what I measured:
1 23.9v
2 23.9v
3 23.9v
4 23.9v
5 0
6 0
7 0
8 0
9 2.5v
10 0
15 0
14 0
13 0
12 0
11 0
10 0
9 12.4v
8 12.4v
7 0
6 0
5 0
4 12.4v
3 3.3v
2 3.8v
1 0
And thank you!
I shorted out Pin 2 (3.8v) to Pin 15, suspecting that pin 14 would then turn on and put out a 12v signal. It did. And that told me that Pin 15 was waiting for input from the Main Board side of things.
Swapped out the Main Board and now it works.
Hello, are we able to down new app to these models?
Given its age, probably not.