Love the videos..I know as a mechanic that parts and machine work don't just show up when you want...keep 'em coming and I'll keep on watching...the knowledge is invaluable that you provide!
Thanks for the update. I am not in any hurry, and I am extremely patient. Great explanation on all of the parts. I know how long it takes to shoot and edit video and appreciate what you do, and you do so well. I can't help but feel very fortunate that I have you building this motor for me. You should have a carburetor showing up soon as well. I am going to leave the valve cover design up to you and I know it will be a great looker as well as a top notch runner. I look forward to all of you videos, even if they aren't about my motor.
very much enjoy the video's , I've been watching for a while now and having worked in a machine shop and building street engine's for over 25 years I haven't heard one out of the way comment on how to build correctly . when I started in the mid 80's there was no information available unless you bought very expensive books or knew somebody that could teach you that had an enormous amount of experience , so I am totally grateful for sites like this to continue learning .
I have to agree with you I have been watching this channel for a couple of years now I too was a machinist in a performance engine shop for many years this guy "myvintageiron7512" don't know his real name,, is so right on with just about everything he does and says it is really refreshing to watch these videos I listen to him because he has a straight forward no BS style I would say one of the most knowledgeable guys on you tube, there are so many people posting videos that are pointless and just plain BS great job keep em coming
found your channel recently while researching an fe build. I subscribed immediately after watching the 390 teardown. I'm amazed at how many of my questions have been answered just by watching you. you must be a teacher, great job and thank you! I was planning on aluminum heads for my stroker build/F250 project but after seeing the flow results I've changed my mind. Thanks again looking forward to the next 390 video!!!
Your videos are awesome and educational and I'm a patient guy...Rome was not built in a day Bro...I love seeing them and when they come out it's a treat...just keep 'em coming and I'll keep being a Patreon subscriber..nice work..thanks for all you do educating us...to be honest I too have been swamped with work and haven't watched anything in almost a month..so we're all good!! LOL!
Just got my 331 stroker Took my friends 7-8 months. I never rushed them I have a huge respect for engine builders. It is attention to detail. You have to. It’s a MOTOR
Sweet Video Torres. I used the mad skills you taught me in class and recently built an 88 Mustang 5.0 into a '64 Mustang... Then built another 5.0 with the AP9 / AOD combo for my Pop's '69 F100. I need to hook up with you to get one of my blocked machined in prep for my 347 Stroker.
apparently those people that say you fell off have never watched ericthecarguy"s farmont build lol. Either way man. I cant wait to see the rest of the series. Keep up the good work
Thank you so much for your videos, your level of insight and production value is top notch. I have a soft spot for the 390, it was the first engine I assembled, back in high school auto shop 20 yrs ago. Loved getting that front (or was it rear) main cap off. I was also excited to hear about the 5.0 swap in to the early Mustang, I'm considering doing the same swap into my '65 and look forward to any guidance you provide. Subscribed.
The 5.0 that he is rebuilding is for me. He did get the year wrong. No harm or foul. I am putting it into a 65 Mustang. I would recommend that if you are going to do the swap and want to use the EFI fuel system find a donor car and buy it. I got my complete donor car very cheap. This will save a lot of trips to the junk yard.
What? The videos don't "boom, boom, boom, boom, boom"? While shocked, I'm happy to have them at your pace. I have a 428 rebuild to do, so I'm watching this one! Thanks!
I'm getting ready to rebuild my 400 Ford and still looking for 71 400 pistons and cam just for a short time I'm wanting to put a 69 429 in it and what your video shows is what I want to do to the 429.
I think it's really funny how chevy took the fully skirted and cross bolted ideas from the fe engine to make their ls engines so great..the balanced set of rods I purchased I took the time to weight myself and they were less than 2 tenths of a gram off.
Ford does not have a corner on the skirted block many manufacturers used it dating all the way back to the 1920's and 30's GM had a skirted truck block in 1959 every so often I hear this stuff about Chevy coping ford, as if the skirted block is a secret that only ford knows about it's just not true skirted blocks can be found in GM's history as far back a 1917 so please stop all this Chevy copied Ford business is just nonsense
I know what you mean about the heat I live in the High Desert and trying to work in the garage when it's over 110 ain't happening can't wait for cooler weather.
Keep in mind HP gain is not the only advantage to thin rings they can also take much higher RPM with out fluttering or breaking these are both problems for the thicker rings
Myvintageiron7512 any idea what rods are c7te-a. They were attached to 390 4v pistons that are stock stamped. Someone had the motor apart I know for sure. Bought it for $100. Just want to know what it is.
Great video. Thanks. Also, thanks for explaining the delay and letting us know about potential delays in getting the crank balanced. I understand it takes time, and will just have to be patient. Have you done any 351 Cleveland motors? I would love to see a video on the oiling system and the modifications that people do. I've got a 351 Cleveland in the garage and am trying to learn as much about them as I can before I tear into it. Keep up the good work!!
all that stuff is cool but did you get a new block because correct me if I'm wrong but the old one was cracked ? unless I missed the video, anyway was looking up 352FE on the tube an ran into your channel awesome and love the videos, first vehicle I owned was a 1966 F100 with the interceptor 4speed, my dad met me halfway on the $ and he had a 65 F100 and we rolled together till the trucks parted ways with us 12 years ago, and unfortunately he passed April 10 before we could do another so I'm looking to do a frame up in his honor and I think you've given me a heads up on the heart for this truck to come. thanks for the awesome channel keep it up
Yea the old one was cracked in the lifter valley but honestly I probably would have suggested a different even if it weren't because the old block had already been bored out and was worn out we would half to push it to .060 over and since the 390 is a 352/360 Block even at it's standard size it is .050 larger bore than it's original 352 bore size that means a .060 390 is .110 over bore from a 352 and it's the same block, that is really pushing the limits of cylinder thickness they will sometimes run hot at that bore size in my opinion not really worth the risk
The videos are great.....I am an amateur rebuilder that rebuilds a car and motor every 18 months or so....just as a hobby nothing too serious. Your videos have been helpful. BTW, you should call the Patreon site and tell them to update their security certificates. I tried to donate, but the security is not updated and my firewalls won't bring up the site. If I am having the issue, others likely are too. I am rebuilding a 77 corvette with a 350 that is producing about 400 HP. I want to put headers on it for performance reasons, but a guy at the muffler shop said it was a bad idea because the headers would produce too much heat under the car (re: fiberglass body). This is my first corvette build, so I am learning by trial and error. Is there any truth to this?
I know it is more work but i sure hope you need to take enough off the deck that we get to see you fit the intake, to me that has always been one of the most time consuming jobs on an fe and very hard to get corect. it would be nice to see somebody who has done more than a handfull. Thanks agian
To get it correct you will almost always need to mill the intake - even on new ones. To do the setup and measurement you will use the distributor hole as the index and work from that point measuring angles at both heads. This is a HUGE area of concern on FE builds and if not checked (and corrected if necessary) will lead to a failed intake gasket later on - - really common issue on these.
Myvintageiron7512 Ok thanks, are you planning to run a carb on it, or will it be injected? By the way, you are “really” good at explaining how this all works! I never really knew how everything was balanced.
I love your videos on rebuilding engines! Can you do one on how to make it last as long as it can once it’s running? And additives/oils would you use to make them runs it at its best and last the longest of miles? What products do you recommend?
Hey how's the 390 build going haven't heard from you on it and how's the 351m coming along I'm following what ur doin for the 351m build I'm goin to build my 400 and I'm following up with what ur doin on the 351m.
They are both still in the works things slow way down here in the summer time because it's 110 degrees the videos will really start to ramp up again at the end of September and early October
I have my 390 in the shop for machine work, right now they’re balancing the rotating assembly and the guy is saying they’ll probably have to add some weight to the harmonic balancer to get it balanced. Is that kosher to do on an engine that’s supposed to be internally balanced? I’d really like to avoid having to add weld material or whatever to the crank to get it balanced right, but if adding weight to the balanced is a bad idea then I don’t want to do that either. I want to do this motor right. Thanks!
Vintageiron I have a question I have purchased a 351 Cleveland with 4V heads is this a good engine to have in a truck? (f100 short bed). Also what can I do to make this engine to make it more suited for a truck. Thank you.
Just curious, if this engine is going into a truck/pickup and used for towing, why go with all forged internals? Isn't that kind of waste of money? Also, if going with all forged internals, why go with stock 390 heads? Why not go for aftermarket aluminum heads and intake?
i don't agree with the thin ring package on a low rpm motor for towing. 5/64 rings are plenty adequate for the rpm this stroker motor is gonna spin and they help cool the ring lands better, in the manufacturer's and my opinion.
you do NOT want to remove any material under the pin boss, that is an extremely high stress area of the piston (the only material that holds the piston onto the connecting rod during the intake stroke) cutting the underside of the thicker parts of the crown of the piston is what you want to do. 9.5 is also really low for a pump engine unless you're trying to run it on 87...
9.5 is perfect for a truck engine that needs to pull weight, as far as removing material from the piston, while I appreciate your input I am going to go with what MAHLE recommends they say to remove material from the area That I showed in the video sense they made these pistons. I'm sticking with their recommendations I would advise you to do the same
Vintageiron don't listen to this guy he is clueless, I worked in a machine shop for years, we did engine balancing and we always took the weight off of the pin boss area and your right that is what most piston company's tell you to do, so your video is spot on Good job!
Every reputable piston manufacturer has a designated balance pad area that is designed to safely balance the piston without damage, weakening or consequence. Not all pistons are designed to balance by removing material from the pin boss, some pads are under the crown, some pads are inside the skirt area and some are circumferential, some require a drill press, some require a mill, some a lathe and some a hand/die grinder or narrow belt sander. It is the same with crankshafts, connecting rods, dampers, flex-plates/flywheels, clutches, torque converters or any other reciprocating or rotating component. When in doubt always contact the component manufacturer and simply ask them where to safely remove material to balance the component or assembly.
if its iron headed with a poor cooling system 9.5 is still keeping it on the safe side (but as a responsible engine builder, i see why) for as low power and rpm as this engine is probably going to turn, taking minor mounts of material off of the bottom of the pin boss probably isnt going to hurt you, but if one of mahle's reps told you this you need to talk to someone else. ive talked extensively to piston manufactures during school and afterwords that absolutely detest any material removal from the pin boss.
That may be true, but here is what you need to understand Piston manufacturers build up certain areas of the piston with extra material for the specific purpose of having it removed for balancing purposes so when you say and I am quoting " you do NOT want to remove any material under the pin boss" you are making a broad statement that is leaving out one very important fact, that being you need to remove material from the exact location on the piston that the piston manufacturer intended it to be removed from what your post should have said was make sure you find out where the piston designers added extra material for the purpose of balancing in many cases it is the pin boss area, another thing I think you lack understanding on is the amount of material removed is usually only 2 or 3 grams at the most a gram is about the weight of a dollar bill it amounts to a very tiny bit of material off of each piston My friend that does all this balancing for us has a 40 year track record balancing 2 and 3 thousand HP race engines I assure you he knows exactly where to and where not to remove piston material. so you see you need to be careful when posting blanket statements stating what people should or should not do if your information is not correct and/or you don't have a good grasp on the process you are speaking about, in this case balancing. As for the compression ratio issue again I completely disagree with you we are talking about a cast iron Ford FE engine with a Carb this is not my first rodeo you go right ahead and build yourself a 10.5 to 1 FE engine and run it on pump gas hook up a trailer and pull it around in 100 degree weather with the A/C on and you can kiss you engine goodbye Best of luck to ya,
First off keep in mind all factory engines are balanced , Balancing is not a high performance upgrade only done to performance engines. Balancing is a must for all engines. When you rebuild an engine, your replacing pistons possibly connecting rods and crankshaft, the chances that your new parts are going to be weight matched out of the box is about 0% therefore they need to be balanced as a rotating assembly to answer your question the benefit of balancing is your engine does not destroy itself with internal harmonics and vibration
Hello, I have been following for awhile! Was wondering, has anyone everdone a ford FE 360 perfromance build? less stroke right? more rpms?.. right? just wondering! thanks for what you do. ROBERT M.
I cant keep quiet when i see this stuff in the comments. i read the comments on videos because you may learn something, but if all you are going to do is tell somebody who takes the time to make videos that they are wrong go to yellow bullit and act like your in high school! i have been a truck mechanic my whole life and i will state these facts when in apprentiship school the guy running their mouth all seemed to go through at least two jobs in that four years! as i was tought very quickly engines, trucks cars cant read so you need to use common sence, and theory, all engines, mechanical things have things in common, but they also all have their little flaws and good points. I love the fe ford dont know why something to do with helping dad i guess. but if you dont get them right they can be a pain in the ass. but they all have their problems. i will say it now before i even look at your ls video gm did not copy ford the y block was a deep skirt also as many others have been. now as a ford guy i will tell you this if ford had produced the ls they would have only done it for 5 years because they cant stand to not fuck with something that works. case in point is the 427 so why not just tweek it a little through the years and keep using it? that little ls is a great piece and tough look at sloppy mechanics and let me know when you make a 1000 rwhp wit a stock bottom engin of any kind that runs on gas. as for the know it alls let the rest of us decide if we are getting good info! remember better to keep mouth shut and let them think your a fool than to open it and prove it. Again Thank you for sharing your skills
Hey there, I'm curious if you've ever built or fiddled with a Ford MEL Big Block? We just bought a '65 Continental and the 430 engine is probably garbage since the car sat in a junkyard outside since 1981. I can't find any parts for a rebuild and if you know someone or somewhere we can find parts, that would be a huge help!
No offense intended BUT please take my advice and find a 390 to replace the MEL. As stated, parts are NOT supported because this engine had a very short run. It was the only engine Ford produced with a tapered block deck so your (domed on the top side) pistons come in RH and LH sets of four. Either settle for Egge flat pistons (which ruin your compression ratio) or have pistons made. Wisco may do the job but it isn't cheap. It's FAR cheaper to rebuild an 390 FE because they are supported by aftermarket like Edelbrock. Bulldozer engines came with two thermostats in the block (one on each side) that nobody has carried for decades. - Dave
I was just curious, as our engine is junk... I'm aware of its design (similar to the Impala 409's) and lack or parts support. The plan is a late model drivetrain swap anyway.
Hey listen Man, I'm a Ford guy trying to save you a lot of headache. Your engine has an oil pump WITH a vacuum pump on it as one unit. The original was made by Delco (yeah, I know...). There are too many parts needed for your engine that simply are not available. You might do better by selling the parts you have on the 430. An engine rebuild should not cost an arm and a leg. This one will...
Did you even read my reply? I said I'm aware of the engine's downsides, and we're shelving the MEL and doing a late model drivetrain swap. All we did was pull it out and set it on a tire.
So I bought a cheap Fe labeled as a 360. I pulled it all apart got the crank out but it has no casting numbers on it?? The rods are c7te-a long rods so im assuming it's a 5.9. Any idea what differences are between the Fe and the Ft blocks? Not sure what I have because the crank
Myvintageiron7512 I was reading the timing chain covers are different and a few other things. Block is bare now going to machine shop this weekend so I guess I'll see if it's even worth saving.
The only real difference in an FT block is the diameter of the distributor pilot hole. An FT is easily identified by a much larger crankshaft snout diameter, as well as a unique intake and exhaust bolt pattern. If the engine came out of a pickup truck it is not an FT - they were only installed in medium duty commercial trucks.
I have a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric on my sbf. . Do these ever cause trouble? Looks like it would wear itself out because of the rubbing of the parts.
I actually agree with this The H beam rods got a reputation as being the best rods mainly because of the high grade forged material they were made of however if all things are equal I do agree that the I beams show more strength there is allot of evidence and testing to back this up great point
Yep... as you know, but some readers may not, I-beams require less removal of the block for strokers. I-beams can be made as strong and lighter so you can rev quicker/higher. And, H-beams are "oil catchers".
Agreed on all points, It is refreshing to hear someone post facts rather than just repeating what their Dad told them one time 20 years ago and is a complete myth
Thinner rings conform to bore surfaces much better they also will keep a good seal agenst the bore at a much higher RPM that a thicker ring thick rings start to flutter and lift off the ring lands at higher RPM's www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/engine/mahles-thin-piston-ring-technology-affordable-effective/
A re-build, absolutely. Re-build means at least OEM quality, and with older engines way better than OEM. There is no excuse for a re-built engine being inferior to an OEM engine.
Myvintageiron7512 could I have your email so I can get with you on the DZ 302 motor,best heads,intake,exhaust headers,etc. I want a high RPM motor. I am putting it in a Vega body. and will use the natural high RPM nature of this motor
Standard trans works ok the car/truck will be faster with automatic go to any drag strip you won't see any serious racers with standard trans, they are almost all automatic, standard is just too slow
I love such a complete kit. I would love to pick your brain a bit. I have a 67 galaxie with a 1973 390 in it. Got a full felpro rebuild kit... But my question is... What is the cheapest kit for a good stroker set up using stock 4 barrel intake.
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Love the videos..I know as a mechanic that parts and machine work don't just show up when you want...keep 'em coming and I'll keep on watching...the knowledge is invaluable that you provide!
Very informative about balancing and how it's done. Learned something new, Thanks.
Thanks for the update. I am not in any hurry, and I am extremely patient. Great explanation on all of the parts. I know how long it takes to shoot and edit video and appreciate what you do, and you do so well. I can't help but feel very fortunate that I have you building this motor for me. You should have a carburetor showing up soon as well. I am going to leave the valve cover design up to you and I know it will be a great looker as well as a top notch runner. I look forward to all of you videos, even if they aren't about my motor.
I now understand how an engine is balanced. Great job keep it up. I learned a lot about engine building an machining from ur videos.
very much enjoy the video's , I've been watching for a while now and having worked in a machine shop and building street engine's for over 25 years I haven't heard one out of the way comment on how to build correctly . when I started in the mid 80's there was no information available unless you bought very expensive books or knew somebody that could teach you that had an enormous amount of experience , so I am totally grateful for sites like this to continue learning .
I have to agree with you I have been watching this channel for a couple of years now I too was a machinist in a performance engine shop for many years this guy "myvintageiron7512" don't know his real name,, is so right on with just about everything he does and says it is really refreshing to watch these videos I listen to him because he has a straight forward no BS style I would say one of the most knowledgeable guys on you tube, there are so many people posting videos that are pointless and just plain BS great job keep em coming
one of the best channels for sure
Videos are great man. Thanks for education. Keep it up.
found your channel recently while researching an fe build. I subscribed immediately after watching the 390 teardown. I'm amazed at how many of my questions have been answered just by watching you. you must be a teacher, great job and thank you! I was planning on aluminum heads for my stroker build/F250 project but after seeing the flow results I've changed my mind. Thanks again looking forward to the next 390 video!!!
Your videos are awesome and educational and I'm a patient guy...Rome was not built in a day Bro...I love seeing them and when they come out it's a treat...just keep 'em coming and I'll keep being a Patreon subscriber..nice work..thanks for all you do educating us...to be honest I too have been swamped with work and haven't watched anything in almost a month..so we're all good!! LOL!
Just got my 331 stroker
Took my friends 7-8 months.
I never rushed them I have a huge respect for engine builders. It is attention to detail. You have to. It’s a MOTOR
Take all the time you need. I'm learning a lot from your vids. Thank you.
I appreciate that
Cool high quality components. Looks like it'll be bulletproof.
Nice shirt. I graduated from UTI in 1986. Phoenix campus. Yes, I'm old.
Good times!
Sweet Video Torres. I used the mad skills you taught me in class and recently built an 88 Mustang 5.0 into a '64 Mustang... Then built another 5.0 with the AP9 / AOD combo for my Pop's '69 F100.
I need to hook up with you to get one of my blocked machined in prep for my 347 Stroker.
Excellent explanation on balancing. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
apparently those people that say you fell off have never watched ericthecarguy"s farmont build lol. Either way man. I cant wait to see the rest of the series. Keep up the good work
Great info ! Nice to see it coming together! Love your vids love your knowledge 👍
Keep up the good work !!
Great video! I appreciate the time and detail you put into them. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much for your videos, your level of insight and production value is top notch. I have a soft spot for the 390, it was the first engine I assembled, back in high school auto shop 20 yrs ago. Loved getting that front (or was it rear) main cap off.
I was also excited to hear about the 5.0 swap in to the early Mustang, I'm considering doing the same swap into my '65 and look forward to any guidance you provide. Subscribed.
The 5.0 that he is rebuilding is for me. He did get the year wrong. No harm or foul. I am putting it into a 65 Mustang. I would recommend that if you are going to do the swap and want to use the EFI fuel system find a donor car and buy it. I got my complete donor car very cheap. This will save a lot of trips to the junk yard.
Great explanation of the balancing process!
What? The videos don't "boom, boom, boom, boom, boom"? While shocked, I'm happy to have them at your pace. I have a 428 rebuild to do, so I'm watching this one! Thanks!
the ford FE motor is so underrated one of the best carb motors ford ever built was based off of the FE block .....the 427 cammer
i like your videos as you give good information and explane it very well
Thanks
just wanted to thank you... great job and info
Like your videos.....specially about the 390 FE engine.....greetings from germany
THX
Thanks always for the good knowledge. Great videos brother
Awesome! Better then watching tv ✌️️
THX
I'm getting ready to rebuild my 400 Ford and still looking for 71 400 pistons and cam just for a short time I'm wanting to put a 69 429 in it and what your video shows is what I want to do to the 429.
great post hope it runs good with lots of power
That's what were are shooting for
Great video thanks for the education.
I think it's really funny how chevy took the fully skirted and cross bolted ideas from the fe engine to make their ls engines so great..the balanced set of rods I purchased I took the time to weight myself and they were less than 2 tenths of a gram off.
Ford does not have a corner on the skirted block many manufacturers used it dating all the way back to the 1920's and 30's GM had a skirted truck block in 1959 every so often I hear this stuff about Chevy coping ford, as if the skirted block is a secret that only ford knows about it's just not true skirted blocks can be found in GM's history as far back a 1917 so please stop all this Chevy copied Ford business is just nonsense
I'll gladly wait 2 weeks for this engine to be balanced. It will be well worth it.
I know what you mean about the heat I live in the High Desert and trying to work in the garage when it's over 110 ain't happening can't wait for cooler weather.
Thanks
Is the 390 ford fe motor best motor ford ever made honest opinion
Brother I love this info.can you trust scat to balance all the stuff I need .there's no one around were I live to do the job.
You see the engine masters episode on thin rings? Good for 6hp in a 500hp engine. Brûlée guessed on the nose. lol
Keep in mind HP gain is not the only advantage to thin rings they can also take much higher RPM with out fluttering or breaking these are both problems for the thicker rings
Myvintageiron7512 any idea what rods are c7te-a. They were attached to 390 4v pistons that are stock stamped. Someone had the motor apart I know for sure. Bought it for $100. Just want to know what it is.
great vid thanks
you dont always have to have an engine to do a video you could do a q&a video or just shoot the shit i love engines just like you
He puts out a lot of vids for the patreon guys. It's definitely worth tossing him a couple bucks a month.
Awesome video series. Can you give me the info on your balancing guy? I have some parts to balance. Thanks
5 star in Glendale AZ
Interesting, we have factory 390 galaxy here RHD ))))
Great video. Thanks. Also, thanks for explaining the delay and letting us know about potential delays in getting the crank balanced. I understand it takes time, and will just have to be patient.
Have you done any 351 Cleveland motors? I would love to see a video on the oiling system and the modifications that people do. I've got a 351 Cleveland in the garage and am trying to learn as much about them as I can before I tear into it.
Keep up the good work!!
Awsome videos..! Would really like for you to rebuild my 390
interesting video .
all that stuff is cool but did you get a new block because correct me if I'm wrong but the old one was cracked ? unless I missed the video, anyway was looking up 352FE on the tube an ran into your channel awesome and love the videos, first vehicle I owned was a 1966 F100 with the interceptor 4speed, my dad met me halfway on the $ and he had a 65 F100 and we rolled together till the trucks parted ways with us 12 years ago, and unfortunately he passed April 10 before we could do another so I'm looking to do a frame up in his honor and I think you've given me a heads up on the heart for this truck to come. thanks for the awesome channel keep it up
Yea the old one was cracked in the lifter valley but honestly I probably would have suggested a different even if it weren't because the old block had already been bored out and was worn out we would half to push it to .060 over and since the 390 is a 352/360 Block even at it's standard size it is .050 larger bore than it's original 352 bore size that means a .060 390 is .110 over bore from a 352 and it's the same block, that is really pushing the limits of cylinder thickness they will sometimes run hot at that bore size in my opinion not really worth the risk
Yes, and core shift was still a problem with the FE Series
how bout the 440 ? love the videos i'v been learning alot from you !! thanks !! and i'm not cait i'm her 65 year old dad !!
The videos are great.....I am an amateur rebuilder that rebuilds a car and motor every 18 months or so....just as a hobby nothing too serious. Your videos have been helpful. BTW, you should call the Patreon site and tell them to update their security certificates. I tried to donate, but the security is not updated and my firewalls won't bring up the site. If I am having the issue, others likely are too. I am rebuilding a 77 corvette with a 350 that is producing about 400 HP. I want to put headers on it for performance reasons, but a guy at the muffler shop said it was a bad idea because the headers would produce too much heat under the car (re: fiberglass body). This is my first corvette build, so I am learning by trial and error. Is there any truth to this?
you need to put coated headers and they will be fine
I know it is more work but i sure hope you need to take enough off the deck that we get to see you fit the intake, to me that has always been one of the most time consuming jobs on an fe and very hard to get corect. it would be nice to see somebody who has done more than a handfull. Thanks agian
Geez I hope it does not come to that I don't want to mill the intake if I can help it
To get it correct you will almost always need to mill the intake - even on new ones. To do the setup and measurement you will use the distributor hole as the index and work from that point measuring angles at both heads. This is a HUGE area of concern on FE builds and if not checked (and corrected if necessary) will lead to a failed intake gasket later on - - really common issue on these.
Links for the cam kit you bought please ! Rebuilding mine now !
K-32-442-9 Comp cams
i would like you to build my 390 ford motor i watched your videos it's in a 66 ford thunderbird
Where do I get torque spec, clearance, and other information in engines? Is there a company that makes books with all rebuild specs?
So, what you're saying is I should sell my shop and go into the balancing business?
??
Question... when they balance your crank on a 90 degree block... do they still carry a balance factor or percentage of reciprocating weight?
What kind of HP/TQ are you expecting from this 390FE/431 Build? Love your videos & subscribed! Keep up the great work!
we are looking for 450 TQ and whatever HP comes with it TQ is all that we really care about for a street truck
Myvintageiron7512 Ok thanks, are you planning to run a carb on it, or will it be injected? By the way, you are “really” good at explaining how this all works! I never really knew how everything was balanced.
HEY! I'm loving these videos, keep up the great work. Was wondering if i could get the name of your supplier? Thanks from Canada!
Engine and performance warehouse Inc. also known as EPWI
Myvintageiron7512 awesome thanks!
Seems like a pretty mild cam for a 400+ stroker motor?
This one is all about TQ
i found 10:5 to one is good for 92 octane seems to work good for the street but i'm running a msd 7 with a tunnel ram but my 327 is nuts out
man, how I wish you could personally rebuild my 390fe engine and. turn it into a stroker. 66tbird engine.
I can
I love your videos on rebuilding engines! Can you do one on how to make it last as long as it can once it’s running? And additives/oils would you use to make them runs it at its best and last the longest of miles? What products do you recommend?
I have a 2bbl 360 fe in my truck. Could I make a 430 stroke out of it?
Yes
Hey how's the 390 build going haven't heard from you on it and how's the 351m coming along I'm following what ur doin for the 351m build I'm goin to build my 400 and I'm following up with what ur doin on the 351m.
They are both still in the works things slow way down here in the summer time because it's 110 degrees the videos will really start to ramp up again at the end of September and early October
DON'T FORGET YOU NEED BRONZE OR NYLON DISTRIBUTOR GEAR
Yes we will get to that for those of you wondering about this make sure you use a distributor gear that the cam manufacturer recommends
I have my 390 in the shop for machine work, right now they’re balancing the rotating assembly and the guy is saying they’ll probably have to add some weight to the harmonic balancer to get it balanced. Is that kosher to do on an engine that’s supposed to be internally balanced? I’d really like to avoid having to add weld material or whatever to the crank to get it balanced right, but if adding weight to the balanced is a bad idea then I don’t want to do that either. I want to do this motor right. Thanks!
it's fine to do that
Myvintageiron7512 Gotcha, thank you!!
Do you still build FEs?….how much would you charge to rebuild one?
Sorry I'm not doing customer work any more
👍👍
I know you have a lot going, but I thought the OHC pontiac would be very interesting to teardown
6yep it's on the list
Oh god it's like he's speaking in gearhead pornography. lol
How would you build a 5.9 dodge truck engine for a every day driver/ work truck
Leave it stock
Vintageiron I have a question I have purchased a 351 Cleveland with 4V heads is this a good engine to have in a truck? (f100 short bed). Also what can I do to make this engine to make it more suited for a truck. Thank you.
I would use Cleveland 2 V heads lots more low end TQ
Just curious, if this engine is going into a truck/pickup and used for towing, why go with all forged internals? Isn't that kind of waste of money? Also, if going with all forged internals, why go with stock 390 heads? Why not go for aftermarket aluminum heads and intake?
76 ford p/u
ok, thanks but didn't really answer my questions. :)
i don't agree with the thin ring package on a low rpm motor for towing. 5/64 rings are plenty adequate for the rpm this stroker motor is gonna spin and they help cool the ring lands better, in the manufacturer's and my opinion.
Any updates on the Pontiac OHC?
It's on the list
you do NOT want to remove any material under the pin boss, that is an extremely high stress area of the piston (the only material that holds the piston onto the connecting rod during the intake stroke) cutting the underside of the thicker parts of the crown of the piston is what you want to do.
9.5 is also really low for a pump engine unless you're trying to run it on 87...
9.5 is perfect for a truck engine that needs to pull weight, as far as removing material from the piston, while I appreciate your input I am going to go with what MAHLE recommends they say to remove material from the area That I showed in the video sense they made these pistons. I'm sticking with their recommendations I would advise you to do the same
Vintageiron don't listen to this guy he is clueless, I worked in a machine shop for years, we did engine balancing and we always took the weight off of the pin boss area and your right that is what most piston company's tell you to do, so your video is spot on Good job!
Every reputable piston manufacturer has a designated balance pad area that is designed to safely balance the piston without damage, weakening or consequence.
Not all pistons are designed to balance by removing material from the pin boss, some pads are under the crown, some pads are inside the skirt area and some are circumferential, some require a drill press, some require a mill, some a lathe and some a hand/die grinder or narrow belt sander.
It is the same with crankshafts, connecting rods, dampers, flex-plates/flywheels, clutches, torque converters or any other reciprocating or rotating component.
When in doubt always contact the component manufacturer and simply ask them where to safely remove material to balance the component or assembly.
if its iron headed with a poor cooling system 9.5 is still keeping it on the safe side (but as a responsible engine builder, i see why) for as low power and rpm as this engine is probably going to turn, taking minor mounts of material off of the bottom of the pin boss probably isnt going to hurt you, but if one of mahle's reps told you this you need to talk to someone else. ive talked extensively to piston manufactures during school and afterwords that absolutely detest any material removal from the pin boss.
That may be true, but here is what you need to understand Piston manufacturers build up certain areas of the piston with extra material for the specific purpose of having it removed for balancing purposes so when you say and I am quoting " you do NOT want to remove any material under the pin boss" you are making a broad statement that is leaving out one very important fact, that being you need to remove material from the exact location on the piston that the piston manufacturer intended it to be removed from what your post should have said was make sure you find out where the piston designers added extra material for the purpose of balancing in many cases it is the pin boss area, another thing I think you lack understanding on is the amount of material removed is usually only 2 or 3 grams at the most a gram is about the weight of a dollar bill it amounts to a very tiny bit of material off of each piston My friend that does all this balancing for us has a 40 year track record balancing 2 and 3 thousand HP race engines I assure you he knows exactly where to and where not to remove piston material. so you see you need to be careful when posting blanket statements stating what people should or should not do if your information is not correct and/or you don't have a good grasp on the process you are speaking about, in this case balancing. As for the compression ratio issue again I completely disagree with you we are talking about a cast iron Ford FE engine with a Carb
this is not my first rodeo you go right ahead and build yourself a 10.5 to 1 FE engine and run it on pump gas hook up a trailer and pull it around in 100 degree weather with the A/C on and you can kiss you engine goodbye Best of luck to ya,
curious, what are the benefits of a balanced engine?
First off keep in mind all factory engines are balanced , Balancing is not a high performance upgrade only done to performance engines.
Balancing is a must for all engines.
When you rebuild an engine, your replacing pistons possibly connecting rods and crankshaft, the chances that your new parts are going to be weight matched out of the box is about 0% therefore they need to be balanced as a rotating assembly to answer your question the benefit of balancing is your engine does not destroy itself with internal harmonics and vibration
Would you use the same stuff on a 69 360?
Yes
Hello, I have been following for awhile! Was wondering, has anyone everdone a ford FE 360 perfromance build? less stroke right? more rpms?.. right? just wondering! thanks for what you do. ROBERT M.
The 360 has really wimpy connecting rods not a good choice for performance
Thank you for your reply man!
will we see the 390 on the dyno?
not a dyno but on the run stand for sure
I cant keep quiet when i see this stuff in the comments. i read the comments on videos because you may learn something, but if all you are going to do is tell somebody who takes the time to make videos that they are wrong go to yellow bullit and act like your in high school! i have been a truck mechanic my whole life and i will state these facts when in apprentiship school the guy running their mouth all seemed to go through at least two jobs in that four years! as i was tought very quickly engines, trucks cars cant read so you need to use common sence, and theory, all engines, mechanical things have things in common, but they also all have their little flaws and good points. I love the fe ford dont know why something to do with helping dad i guess. but if you dont get them right they can be a pain in the ass. but they all have their problems. i will say it now before i even look at your ls video gm did not copy ford the y block was a deep skirt also as many others have been. now as a ford guy i will tell you this if ford had produced the ls they would have only done it for 5 years because they cant stand to not fuck with something that works. case in point is the 427 so why not just tweek it a little through the years and keep using it? that little ls is a great piece and tough look at sloppy mechanics and let me know when you make a 1000 rwhp wit a stock bottom engin of any kind that runs on gas. as for the know it alls let the rest of us decide if we are getting good info! remember better to keep mouth shut and let them think your a fool than to open it and prove it. Again Thank you for sharing your skills
Now her is a guy that has his head on streight Very well said Thank You
Hey there, I'm curious if you've ever built or fiddled with a Ford MEL Big Block?
We just bought a '65 Continental and the 430 engine is probably garbage since the car sat in a junkyard outside since 1981.
I can't find any parts for a rebuild and if you know someone or somewhere we can find parts, that would be a huge help!
sorry can;t help you with that one
No offense intended BUT please take my advice and find a 390 to replace the MEL. As stated, parts are NOT supported because this engine had a very short run. It was the only engine Ford produced with a tapered block deck so your (domed on the top side) pistons come in RH and LH sets of four. Either settle for Egge flat pistons (which ruin your compression ratio) or have pistons made. Wisco may do the job but it isn't cheap. It's FAR cheaper to rebuild an 390 FE because they are supported by aftermarket like Edelbrock.
Bulldozer engines came with two thermostats in the block (one on each side) that nobody has carried for decades. - Dave
I was just curious, as our engine is junk... I'm aware of its design (similar to the Impala 409's) and lack or parts support. The plan is a late model drivetrain swap anyway.
Hey listen Man, I'm a Ford guy trying to save you a lot of headache. Your engine has an oil pump WITH a vacuum pump on it as one unit. The original was made by Delco (yeah, I know...). There are too many parts needed for your engine that simply are not available. You might do better by selling the parts you have on the 430.
An engine rebuild should not cost an arm and a leg. This one will...
Did you even read my reply? I said I'm aware of the engine's downsides, and we're shelving the MEL and doing a late model drivetrain swap. All we did was pull it out and set it on a tire.
where are you located i want you to build a couple motors
Phoenix
So I bought a cheap Fe labeled as a 360. I pulled it all apart got the crank out but it has no casting numbers on it?? The rods are c7te-a long rods so im assuming it's a 5.9. Any idea what differences are between the Fe and the Ft blocks? Not sure what I have because the crank
The FT is a heavier casting with a steel crank and some mounting differences you can run them if you have one
Myvintageiron7512 I was reading the timing chain covers are different and a few other things. Block is bare now going to machine shop this weekend so I guess I'll see if it's even worth saving.
The only real difference in an FT block is the diameter of the distributor pilot hole. An FT is easily identified by a much larger crankshaft snout diameter, as well as a unique intake and exhaust bolt pattern. If the engine came out of a pickup truck it is not an FT - they were only installed in medium duty commercial trucks.
Barry R thanks Barry !
I have a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric on my sbf. . Do these ever cause trouble? Looks like it would wear itself out because of the rubbing of the parts.
I have never seen one go bad
I personally hate the two piece eccentric. A new one piece is available from Ford and I replace every one of them. JMO
thanks Barry
I-beam rods are better than H-beam rods. Search for "540 Rat" and read his blog, super good info on tons of topics.
I actually agree with this The H beam rods got a reputation as being the best rods mainly because of the high grade forged material they were made of however if all things are equal I do agree that the I beams show more strength there is allot of evidence and testing to back this up great point
Yep... as you know, but some readers may not, I-beams require less removal of the block for strokers. I-beams can be made as strong and lighter so you can rev quicker/higher. And, H-beams are "oil catchers".
Agreed on all points, It is refreshing to hear someone post facts rather than just repeating what their Dad told them one time 20 years ago and is a complete myth
how does a thinner ring seal better?
Thinner rings conform to bore surfaces much better they also will keep a good seal agenst the bore at a much higher RPM that a thicker ring thick rings start to flutter and lift off the ring lands at higher RPM's
www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/engine/mahles-thin-piston-ring-technology-affordable-effective/
Thank you!
do you recommend replacing your pistons on every rebuild?
Yes
A re-build, absolutely. Re-build means at least OEM quality, and with older engines way better than OEM. There is no excuse for a re-built engine being inferior to an OEM engine.
looking to build a Chevy 302,I have the ex block and will run after heads.could you help with building the engine?
sure
Myvintageiron7512 could I have your email so I can get with you on the DZ 302 motor,best heads,intake,exhaust headers,etc. I want a high RPM motor. I am putting it in a Vega body. and will use the natural high RPM nature of this motor
We're you order your parts
This kit came directly from Scat
Rodney Turner Rodney please call me please
Cant find anything on the pontiac SOHC 6, have i missed something ?
it's still on the drawing board
fuk all negative comments
can i work for u @...????
Everything made sense until you said a flex plate what a waste!!!!
3 pedals is the only way a fe Ford should be connected!!!!!
Standard trans works ok the car/truck will be faster with automatic go to any drag strip you won't see any serious racers with standard trans, they are almost all automatic,
standard is just too slow
I love such a complete kit. I would love to pick your brain a bit. I have a 67 galaxie with a 1973 390 in it. Got a full felpro rebuild kit... But my question is... What is the cheapest kit for a good stroker set up using stock 4 barrel intake.
Thanks
Thanks