Just a couple of observations. Before I jump up or reset the head I shave off the ledge or shelf formed on the handle and give it a drink of linseed. This lubricates the wood and allows the head to be driven on that little bit further and tighter. At this stage, It is also worth seeing if the original wedge will drive any further using a suitable sized mild steel drift. When wedge driving, you are losing a lot of energy of each hammer blow into moving your workbench and vise up and down. I set the head fairly loosely in the vise and under the handle end I place an old 56 pound measuring weight which I 'shim up' off the floor with scrap wood to the correct height. The vise just holds the head steady while the set up below is like an anvil and gives much greater control when driving wedges .... all your blow goes into the wedge. When the wedge is halfway home, I take the axe out of the vise and give a good sharp smack on the end of the handle to make sure that wedge hammering has not 'unset' the head to any degree, and then set it up again in the vise and finish driving the wedge home . Sounds a bit finicky I know, but the above makes a real difference.
@@greekveteran2715 I have never used Ballistol, but it does seem to be based on a non drying mineral oil. I would suggest this would be good for preventing rust on the axe head. I would definitely stick to linseed oil for the wood handle as it does dry to a hard water repellent finish and has been used successfully for hundreds of years. It is very easy to find and cheap to buy. I would steer clear of any wax products as the tend to make the handle slippery. Hope this helps
I know this is an old post but I'm reading it, others will, too. "Old Grizzly" is right as rain, 'back up' the 'shoulder' so the head can move. I'd go for a 1/4", 6mm or a bit less. As for driving the wedge further, it's a very good idea. But too many times the wedge is the same length as the kerf, or longer. If there's no room under it, it will not go in further. I make sure the wedge is at least 1/4", 6mm shorter than the cut so there's room. In case it needs to be driven deeper, later. Also, if the wedge bottoms out it stops expanding the tenon in the head. If the kerf is too short you can't drive the wedge further, the axe must be rehung. Or just do like "Bushcraft Sisyphus" & soak the tenon in oil. I've done that w/ a fresh hang to keep it from drying out. Seems to work, so far.
Very nice! Goes to show that the traditional wedge really only provides lateral pressure in the eye. Often our axes dont have the fore and aft pressure from the wedge that they need and this is where they loosen over time. Pine tar is like Frank's Red Hot brother, you gotta put that sh*t on everything 🤣
Another totally great video. Thank you. I recently got some mapel tapered wedges from Beaver Creek. Haven't used them yet but this vid helped with moral support.
The dowel wedge seems an excellent natural solution. The less natural way to go might be ethylene glycol or similar. I wonder if there is a scientific test to prove or refute this "homestyle" remedy.
Great video! If i drown the a e with handle in linseed oil for days, the colour of the handle will be darker and darker ? Or has a limit for a colour saturation when spend a concrete time? I'm interesting not only in thight the handle, Also in color the handle! Thanks for your awesome video and advices, apreciate so much!
Linseed oil does darken over time more than tung oil. The long soaks are best for older, drier handles, ones with a lot of aging already from layers of whatever, and probably internal cracking and separating. This gives the oil a lot of places to go. It's hard to get much payoff with a new handle by soaking it for more than 2-3 days.
@@BushcraftSisyphus Or even worse: Screws! They surely become a pain in the butt when you are about to remove them, after the head of the screws are pounded flat 👍 Thank you for great content 😱
I bought a council tool boys ax and the head got loose, the company said they will send me a couple dowel wedges, which I had never heard of before, but apparently that's what they recommend
Lovin this series. If you were to make a few of these dowell wedges, would it be best to use hardwood or softwood? Here in Aus I tend to use hardwood wedges against spotted gum or hickory handles.
That head with the hexagon and the UF stamp, and idea who the maker is Lane? I’ve got a similar axe with the same markings but I couldn’t find any info on the maker online...
@@BushcraftSisyphus Thanks for the reply, I thought I read somewhere online something about that logo being on Swedish military axes, but couldn't find much info. I will loon them up, all the best friend.
Where do you buy your barrel wedges from? I am having trouble finding them online. I have an old Hults Bruk hatchet and the barrel wedge would look good and consistent with what they use in their axes today.
Taco Fasteners are the only US maker I know of. The european style ones are made by a company called Pecard that makes tools. Sometimes options show up on ebay
Mineral oil would be interesting, but as a petroleum based oil it is not ever going to technically "dry." I know lots of workworkers will use it to treat wood because it does soak in, maintains a pretty neutral color, and does act as a protective coat. But drying oils like linseed, tung and walnut actually harden up and you can build up layers of protection.
In some scandinavian traditional axes they used to boil the handle end and, if I recall right, the wedge as well and fit them wet and while still hot. Seems that this works well on birch and softwood handles. Probably works by getting much greater wood compression in the wet wood, perhaps beyond the point it could shrink dry to. I very much doubt if it would work in harder woods like ash, hickory oak and the like
Having a blast following your channel!! Turned me into an axe-aholic!! I bought a 36” Ranger Axe from Hardcore Hammers!! It’s a beautiful beast! Had a cord of unsplit wood delivered and I’m getting after it! Your Lamaca axes look amazing! Also have a Council Tool double bit on the way!!! What am I doing??? 😎😀🪵 🪓
Farmers used to leave their axes stuck in a log at the wood pile, so it never dried out in an heated and air conditioned environment.
Dowel wedges! Who knew? ...well, now I do so I have some experimenting to do. Top tip, looks very neat - thanks dude.
All manner of Axe Science is our restless concern!
Just a couple of observations. Before I jump up or reset the head I shave off the ledge or shelf formed on the handle and give it a drink of linseed. This lubricates the wood and allows the head to be driven on that little bit further and tighter. At this stage, It is also worth seeing if the original wedge will drive any further using a suitable sized mild steel drift. When wedge driving, you are losing a lot of energy of each hammer blow into moving your workbench and vise up and down. I set the head fairly loosely in the vise and under the handle end I place an old 56 pound measuring weight which I 'shim up' off the floor with scrap wood to the correct height. The vise just holds the head steady while the set up below is like an anvil and gives much greater control when driving wedges .... all your blow goes into the wedge. When the wedge is halfway home, I take the axe out of the vise and give a good sharp smack on the end of the handle to make sure that wedge hammering has not 'unset' the head to any degree, and then set it up again in the vise and finish driving the wedge home . Sounds a bit finicky I know, but the above makes a real difference.
Please, does Ballistol oil work to seal axes handles? I have that, and the Hanwag Wax sealant, can I use them both please? Thanks in advance
@@greekveteran2715 I have never used Ballistol, but it does seem to be based on a non drying mineral oil. I would suggest this would be good for preventing rust on the axe head. I would definitely stick to linseed oil for the wood handle as it does dry to a hard water repellent finish and has been used successfully for hundreds of years. It is very easy to find and cheap to buy. I would steer clear of any wax products as the tend to make the handle slippery. Hope this helps
@@bigoldgrizzly Thank you very much, I really apriiciate it!
@@greekveteran2715 you are welcome - hope the work goes well for you
I know this is an old post but I'm reading it, others will, too.
"Old Grizzly" is right as rain, 'back up' the 'shoulder' so the head can move.
I'd go for a 1/4", 6mm or a bit less.
As for driving the wedge further, it's a very good idea.
But too many times the wedge is the same length as the kerf, or longer.
If there's no room under it, it will not go in further.
I make sure the wedge is at least 1/4", 6mm shorter than the cut so there's room.
In case it needs to be driven deeper, later.
Also, if the wedge bottoms out it stops expanding the tenon in the head.
If the kerf is too short you can't drive the wedge further, the axe must be rehung.
Or just do like "Bushcraft Sisyphus" & soak the tenon in oil.
I've done that w/ a fresh hang to keep it from drying out.
Seems to work, so far.
Very nice! Goes to show that the traditional wedge really only provides lateral pressure in the eye.
Often our axes dont have the fore and aft pressure from the wedge that they need and this is where they loosen over time.
Pine tar is like Frank's Red Hot brother, you gotta put that sh*t on everything 🤣
True true!
GREAT video! First I've ever seen or heard of a dowel wedge. Thanks!
Glad to help!
Thanks for the premium videos man!
Great video. A lot of important info to correct what I’ve been doing wrong for years! Thanks
Another totally great video. Thank you. I recently got some mapel tapered wedges from Beaver Creek. Haven't used them yet but this vid helped with moral support.
A master class and quality result. Excellent Sir !
You have one nice ax collection
There's no such thing as too many axes.
The dowel wedge seems an excellent natural solution. The less natural way to go might be ethylene glycol or similar. I wonder if there is a scientific test to prove or refute this "homestyle" remedy.
Great video! If i drown the a e with handle in linseed oil for days, the colour of the handle will be darker and darker ? Or has a limit for a colour saturation when spend a concrete time? I'm interesting not only in thight the handle, Also in color the handle! Thanks for your awesome video and advices, apreciate so much!
Linseed oil does darken over time more than tung oil. The long soaks are best for older, drier handles, ones with a lot of aging already from layers of whatever, and probably internal cracking and separating. This gives the oil a lot of places to go. It's hard to get much payoff with a new handle by soaking it for more than 2-3 days.
Bushcraft Sisyphus ll Thanks so much, i going to give my new handle a Linseed bath for 2-3 days ! Awesome channel!
Great video! I’m glad I found ya
Very comprehensive info, but you didn't cover the tried and true method of pounding multiple nails into the eye 😄. Many old axes feature them.
I almost added a section lol! We want that technique to truly die.
@@BushcraftSisyphus Or even worse: Screws!
They surely become a pain in the butt when you are about to remove them, after the head of the screws are pounded flat 👍
Thank you for great content 😱
Should we panic? No we should not!
That's the spirit!
I bought a council tool boys ax and the head got loose, the company said they will send me a couple dowel wedges, which I had never heard of before, but apparently that's what they recommend
First time I ever saw A Dowel Wedge ...I will be making me some on the wood lathe.....
Harder woods tend to maintain their roundness better. Softer stuff mushes into whatever the handle will give it and end up looking more like blobs.
@@BushcraftSisyphus Thanks ..I will make some from different types of wood ..Sure seems like a better fix than metal wedges which I do not like to use
super informative,love your channel
Functional and looks cool too. Nice work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Lovin this series. If you were to make a few of these dowell wedges, would it be best to use hardwood or softwood? Here in Aus I tend to use hardwood wedges against spotted gum or hickory handles.
most likely hard wood
Awesome! Did it work?
Oh yeah. Snug as a bug.
What size hole do you need to drill for the dowel wedge? Same size as the dowel itself on the narrower end?
The same size as the bottom of the dowel 👍
@@BushcraftSisyphus Sweet, thanks, i'm gonna try it out.
When I do cross wedges it never goes as smooth as I would like... 🙄
That head with the hexagon and the UF stamp, and idea who the maker is Lane? I’ve got a similar axe with the same markings but I couldn’t find any info on the maker online...
Urafors Sweden. Gone by the 50s as far as I can tell.
@@BushcraftSisyphus Thanks for the reply, I thought I read somewhere online something about that logo being on Swedish military axes, but couldn't find much info. I will loon them up, all the best friend.
Where do you buy your barrel wedges from? I am having trouble finding them online. I have an old Hults Bruk hatchet and the barrel wedge would look good and consistent with what they use in their axes today.
Taco Fasteners are the only US maker I know of. The european style ones are made by a company called Pecard that makes tools. Sometimes options show up on ebay
Logging or forestry suppliers often sell them. Where u located? If in the US try Baileys Forestry supply
I have used the hard wedges they make for tapping beer barrels, try your local pub perhaps
Outstanding show. Any word on forest axe? Thanks
We will have axes, handles, hats and all kinds of things to offer by the end of May!
@@BushcraftSisyphus thanks for update
Can you oil with mineral oil
Mineral oil would be interesting, but as a petroleum based oil it is not ever going to technically "dry." I know lots of workworkers will use it to treat wood because it does soak in, maintains a pretty neutral color, and does act as a protective coat. But drying oils like linseed, tung and walnut actually harden up and you can build up layers of protection.
I think when i bought a new fiskars sledge hammer it was a label that recomended leting it soak i water over night and dowel inn the wedge when wet
I mean it works! It's just going to dry again so...
In some scandinavian traditional axes they used to boil the handle end and, if I recall right, the wedge as well and fit them wet and while still hot. Seems that this works well on birch and softwood handles. Probably works by getting much greater wood compression in the wet wood, perhaps beyond the point it could shrink dry to. I very much doubt if it would work in harder woods like ash, hickory oak and the like
Tenon no y. ten like the number on like onion Ten-on
The obsessive use of "you know" spoils the good information. Language matters
Having a blast following your channel!! Turned me into an axe-aholic!! I bought a 36” Ranger Axe from Hardcore Hammers!! It’s a beautiful beast! Had a cord of unsplit wood delivered and I’m getting after it! Your Lamaca axes look amazing! Also have a Council Tool double bit on the way!!! What am I doing??? 😎😀🪵 🪓