▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ - Video about cutting the tenons: ua-cam.com/video/XL8wDt-xHTI/v-deo.html ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Fisch Forstner and drill Bits: amzn.to/3KT440D *My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
Back in the late 70's I was an apprentice working on restorations in very old (centuries) churches here in the UK. We would splice in new oak beams and recut massive mortises and tenons often working at great height in very awkward conditions. Even with power tools, scaffolding, lighting and heating it was a hell of a challenge. It brought home to me just how hard those guys back in the medieval period worked. I'm not at all religious but church construction has always fascinated me.
I like to look at the edges of the bit when it starts cutting. If I cuts all edges at once I know I'm fairly square. If one side cuts first I know I need to lean away from that side
Great video. Sometimes I think people forget that mortice & tenon joinery has been around much longer than the power tools that are widely used to make them - they used to all be cut by hand. Your method here is a perfect blend of personal power tools and hand tools.
The fun part is one could even go as far as to use hand tools (bit and brace) to do this same thing if they wanted. I actually may do that for some through-tenons I need to do for my current workbench build as I have to go through 3" of wood, and doing that with a chisel seems like it may take a while. Probably do one with and without drilling TBH.
Swarm509, oh yeah brace n bit n a wee squirt of elbow grease. No wait. They took the banana oil out of WD-40. Ok ok no jokes about Tiger Balm or Bengay.., Best of luck , blessings aboundant Crawford out 🙏🔥⚒️🧙🏼♂️
@@Swarm509 Yes, been doing that in nice old oak. And even deeper. All by handwork, first manually (no power tools) drilling in). I had the sharpening-stone near though to keep those chisels sharp at all times.
His channel is often not about advanced carpentry. This why he has been successful. Explaining plainly and giving tips to novice wood workers while promoting the craft. Expecting magic means you don’t watch his channel often or just need something to complain about. He focused on one of several methods to show how one can do this at home with limited tools.
@@johnanthony2545 I agree completely with what you say. This is a really helpful and informative vid which will help me to make easier and better mortise and tenons.
@johnanthony2545 it may be helpful in that case to preface each video with its constituent skill level. I watch the channel because advanced as I am, I can still pick up the odd trick, and because over the years Stumpy has done the odd bit of magic, I don't think it outside the realm of belief that he could find something with this method he could revolutionise.
@@davekavanagh7599 of course ! This just isn’t one of those obviously. Stumpy is great for advanced and novice. I’m the novice lol. I was as an industrial sheet metal worker for 41yrs so much of this content is very relatable yet different. So I’m not start from scratch have to be told what a table ,band or chop saw does guy lol. Any way I still look at the basics for tips or innovations and more advanced wood working skills. Hell I watch sheet metal videos for same reason. Often there are things to learn or a different way to do something one has done a thousand times. If I see something I’ve done or do in that field I offer credibility to that method or alternative methods and pros and cons. Openly sharing experience is what like about this channel.
With so many ways to do everything in woodworking, sometimes it’s overwhelming. This looks like an elegant fool proof procedure delivered by a real teacher. Very nice 👍
Getting a kick out of this. I volunteer at a historically accurate 19th century carpenter's shop. Square mortises are pretty much all auger and chisel work
Saving for a set myself. I always see the cheap sets on for $50 or so here, but realize I'll just burn them out and need to buy better ones anyways. May just start with some individual "common" size quality bits for now.
@@Swarm509 yeah forstner are the best. I'm buying then one by one as the job demands. You will always have some 2 or 3 that will be used more frequently while the others will be at ease most of the time
That is a great way of finding a center, but it can also be used as a quick way to divide a length into several equal divisions, if you want equal spacing between screws for example. You don't need to mark all increments, all you want is one or two marks, referencing from the edge, and then you can use a compass (circle?) to reproduce that same length with very high accuracy.
@@markthomasson5077 Yes, so do I and furthermore, the adjustable square doesn't need to be set accurately to half the width of the wood. Instead, if it's a bit out, you get two parallel lines, maybe a millimetre or so apart and it's easy to accurately judge the centre simply by eye. That may not sound very scientific, but the resultant error is usually far less than the width of a pencil line.
You can, it's kind of a neat trick, but if you've got those perpendicular lines perpendicular to the faces, then you can just draw a couple lines between the opposite corners and where they cross is your center.
I bought my first Fisch bit last month on your recommendations in previous videos. A 2". The BEST forstner bit !!! I'll never buy another brand again. Smoothest cut I've ever had. I didn't even have to sand the hole.
Perfect tutorial on making a mortice. I like the common sense approach and showing the tips and tricks that make it easier to be successful. Thank you!
@@danielakerman8241It's a useful video, but the title is slightly deceiving; those two things are not mutually exclusive and one doesn't excuse the other. If I explain every aspect of how to drive a car with an automatic transmission in a video, that's definitely a useful video, but if it's titled "how to drive any car" because I *assume* no one will have a manual transmission (or I'm so used to everyone having an automatic that lack of access to one doesn't even occur to me), I've still made a (totally correctable) mistake in giving the video a misleading title No one is being a "smart alec" as far as I can tell; just giving honest, good-faith criticism.
Why was just the chisel left out of the title? Why not go all the way with the title: "How to make a square mortise with your hands"? Why do otherwise respectable ppl engage in this type of deception?
OK, FIRST time on your channel that I actually got something new and radical.. I've been doing scoring in sheet metal for 45 years.. But I never thought about a scored line in wood before - probably because a scored line in wood can be hard to see in some lighting.. but.. your pencil line makes it visible! Great tip!
Great channel! Great content. I build traditional Square rule timberframe buildings. One thing I never see on UA-cam is a corner chisel. They are hard to find easy to make. Use a piece of 1 inch angle iron sharpen the inside edges and heat treat it. You don't need a fancy oven just heat to red hit and quench in oil. Weld a piece of solid rectangular steel to the 8 inch long piece of angle iron and make a wooden handle to slide over the steel tang. So nice to use on the inside corners. Fast and nice square corners. I took a timber framing school in Connecticut years ago and that was the first time I used one.
Nice idea - but you need welding equipment too! Mild steel angle iron will not harden with heat alone but could be case-hardened with correct compound.
Wow, gotta say for a newbie woodworker trying to get my wits about me, your videos are my go-to source. You're a true professional in woodworking and teaching! Thank you so much from someone that really cares about learning this craft the right way.
I use mortising bits in my press. If you want to do a few holes here and there this is good but if you have a lot it is nice to be able to just use the press to your advantage.
I use a small bubble level on the end of my drill to help with maintaining vertical alignment. It's worked very well. Just super glue it and you're good to go.
To help keep your drilled holes vertical, set up a bit in a block or vise so it is vertical (use a level), tighten your drill to that, then glue a 'bulls eye' bubble level to the back of the drill so the bubble is centered. These levels used to be very common as people used them to set up their record turntables, but they are still available if you look around out there. Also, if you drill some small -say 1/16 (1.5mm) - holes in each corner it is easier to get the chisel into that square corner (unless you are using a specialized mortise or register chisel) as bevel edged chisels tend to squeeze out of the corner due to the wedging action of the bevel, so you may have to make the cut a few times for each corner.
There are some adapters that make hand drills like a portable mini drilll press too. Not too hard to make (out of wood or even out of hardware store stuff, depending on how ingeneous you feel, plenty of YT tutorials), and honestly it is really handy in both senses.
I would like to offer a few extra options as well, which I think are often overlooked. You can make round mortise and tenon as well (big round hole, big round tenon obviously). One I like even more, if you have any plunge routing capabilities (like a milling machine) or if you just really don't like or isn't good yet at squaring those corners after drilling like in the vid, just make a slow with rounded edges (like a "domino" slot, if you will). Ideally the tenon is a close match, but if it is gonna be invisible, a sloopish work at the round ends works too, glue and fine saw dust as a filler if you were really lazy, I mean sloppy. With just a few powertools and/or a chisel and rasp, I think it is both easy and sort of trivial (skill and experience aside) to figure them out and do them. Never did the round one meself, but the pieces I've seen with it, no problem, besides a potential spinning in place in assembly or over time when the glue gives up. I actually prefer the rounded ends over traditional square ones for through mortise and tenons, just for the aesthetics. And you can do all traditional reinforcement techniques for square ones with these too (wedged, with a dowel/pin through the mortise and tenon, bolt through, same ideas, just adapted to a modified shape, also these fix the round one's potential spining).
Same here, never understood the reason why one needs a square mortise and tenon besides "We've always done it this way". The tools changed over time, why shouldn't the technique, too?
@@chrisr8996 I imagine because a round one relies on glue to prevent the tenon piece from turning whereas the square is locked in place. A square tenon is easier to produce with basic gear than a round one
It's not essentially an ad. It's a tutorial that contains an ad. Sponsors pay the bills. I try to fit the sponsor to the video rather than running ads for stuff that has no interest to someone watching woodworking tutorials.
I have pretty much become accustomed to the "click-bait" titles. I am afraid they are here to stay. I immediately thought of round or oval tenons. No square corners required. Hope the guy with the center finding question got straightened out. Your method appeared perfectly clear to me. Been using it for years. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
For those of us who are less adroit, there are hand drills with levels built in. My old corded DeWalt has one, and it's great for drilling a plumb hold spot on.
I'm terrible at holding a drill straight. I use two-sided tape to attach a little round bubble level to the back of my drill when I need to make fairly precise holes.
This is such a great video. Great info and it is also great for someone new to follow. This is how it was always done but we forget with so many power options.
some things never get old. not that i ever really made a drawer (for example) but i've thought about it and watched a few vids. good vid. easy to understand.
I learnt that technique back in High School here in Australia back in the late 1960's, early 1970's. It is so much easier to enlarge a basic hole than create the hole with the chisel.
Nice clear explanation. Cheaper than a Mortice Machine, but more work. Just wish a Mortice Machine was not so expensive, as I don't do enough joints to justify getting one!
As a matter of fact your mortise is determined by the size of your tenant. Which is always 1/3 of the thickness of your piece of wood. The exception being a thicker piece of wood that requires a double tenant in that the tenant is 2 1/6 part of the thickness of wood diving more as the width requires. This is simply trick my woodworking teacher taught me many years ago in Belgium
Great tips as always, Jim. I have a video topic idea for you. A while back you showed a router technique with a various bearing sizes to make panels with complementary curved edges that would fit together perfectly. Could you modify that technique to use only a straight bit of a common size (1/2"?) and a standard cheap bushing set like the Harbor Freight one? I haven't sat down to figure all the math to see what the proper size combinations would be, but it seems like it should be possible at first glance. Router bits can get expensive so it would be cool to be able to have a potentially cheaper alternative for someone who might already have a bushing set. Thanks for all the great content!
By the title i thought this was going to be some dark art, but no. I was pleased with the video though as it gives a couple of tips that most might not think about, and improve the finished job. Good work!
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼
- Video about cutting the tenons: ua-cam.com/video/XL8wDt-xHTI/v-deo.html
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Fisch Forstner and drill Bits: amzn.to/3KT440D
*My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
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The video link is missing, thanks for a great demonstration
Back in the late 70's I was an apprentice working on restorations in very old (centuries) churches here in the UK. We would splice in new oak beams and recut massive mortises and tenons often working at great height in very awkward conditions. Even with power tools, scaffolding, lighting and heating it was a hell of a challenge. It brought home to me just how hard those guys back in the medieval period worked. I'm not at all religious but church construction has always fascinated me.
I like to look at the edges of the bit when it starts cutting. If I cuts all edges at once I know I'm fairly square. If one side cuts first I know I need to lean away from that side
Yes, and if you drill smooth but slow you can see if depth is even for a few millimetres
Great video. Sometimes I think people forget that mortice & tenon joinery has been around much longer than the power tools that are widely used to make them - they used to all be cut by hand. Your method here is a perfect blend of personal power tools and hand tools.
The fun part is one could even go as far as to use hand tools (bit and brace) to do this same thing if they wanted. I actually may do that for some through-tenons I need to do for my current workbench build as I have to go through 3" of wood, and doing that with a chisel seems like it may take a while. Probably do one with and without drilling TBH.
Swarm509, oh yeah brace n bit n a wee squirt of elbow grease.
No wait. They took the banana oil out of WD-40.
Ok ok no jokes about Tiger Balm or Bengay..,
Best of luck , blessings aboundant
Crawford out 🙏🔥⚒️🧙🏼♂️
@@Swarm509 Yes, been doing that in nice old oak. And even deeper. All by handwork, first manually (no power tools) drilling in).
I had the sharpening-stone near though to keep those chisels sharp at all times.
Brace & Bit is very efficient and that spike point allows more overlap than you’ll get with ordinary drill bits.
I don't know but I was expecting magic, still good for the new guys though 👌
It was magic. The next thing he will probably tell you is the chisel needs to be really sharp and that is the source of my incompetence.
His channel is often not about advanced carpentry. This why he has been successful. Explaining plainly and giving tips to novice wood workers while promoting the craft. Expecting magic means you don’t watch his channel often or just need something to complain about. He focused on one of several methods to show how one can do this at home with limited tools.
@@johnanthony2545 I agree completely with what you say. This is a really helpful and informative vid which will help me to make easier and better mortise and tenons.
@johnanthony2545 it may be helpful in that case to preface each video with its constituent skill level. I watch the channel because advanced as I am, I can still pick up the odd trick, and because over the years Stumpy has done the odd bit of magic, I don't think it outside the realm of belief that he could find something with this method he could revolutionise.
@@davekavanagh7599 of course ! This just isn’t one of those obviously. Stumpy is great for advanced and novice. I’m the novice lol. I was as an industrial sheet metal worker for 41yrs so much of this content is very relatable yet different. So I’m not start from scratch have to be told what a table ,band or chop saw does guy lol. Any way I still look at the basics for tips or innovations and more advanced wood working skills. Hell I watch sheet metal videos for same reason. Often there are things to learn or a different way to do something one has done a thousand times. If I see something I’ve done or do in that field I offer credibility to that method or alternative methods and pros and cons. Openly sharing experience is what like about this channel.
With so many ways to do everything in woodworking, sometimes it’s overwhelming. This looks like an elegant fool proof procedure delivered by a real teacher. Very nice 👍
Getting a kick out of this. I volunteer at a historically accurate 19th century carpenter's shop. Square mortises are pretty much all auger and chisel work
I bought a set of quality forstner bits and it was a revelation. As always, James, thank you for sharing 🌞
Saving for a set myself. I always see the cheap sets on for $50 or so here, but realize I'll just burn them out and need to buy better ones anyways. May just start with some individual "common" size quality bits for now.
@@Swarm509 yeah forstner are the best. I'm buying then one by one as the job demands. You will always have some 2 or 3 that will be used more frequently while the others will be at ease most of the time
Admittedly kind of obvious if you think about it, but I had never seen the "angled ruler" method for center finding. Brilliant, thank you!
That is a great way of finding a center, but it can also be used as a quick way to divide a length into several equal divisions, if you want equal spacing between screws for example.
You don't need to mark all increments, all you want is one or two marks, referencing from the edge, and then you can use a compass (circle?) to reproduce that same length with very high accuracy.
Aye, but the thickness of the pencil can put it out.
I always turn the adjustable square to the other face and mark from both sides, just to be sure.
@@markthomasson5077 Yes, so do I and furthermore, the adjustable square doesn't need to be set accurately to half the width of the wood. Instead, if it's a bit out, you get two parallel lines, maybe a millimetre or so apart and it's easy to accurately judge the centre simply by eye. That may not sound very scientific, but the resultant error is usually far less than the width of a pencil line.
You can, it's kind of a neat trick, but if you've got those perpendicular lines perpendicular to the faces, then you can just draw a couple lines between the opposite corners and where they cross is your center.
Another no frills outstanding demonstration of how to make arguably the best wood working joint ever. Nicely done!
I bought my first Fisch bit last month on your recommendations in previous videos. A 2". The BEST forstner bit !!! I'll never buy another brand again. Smoothest cut I've ever had. I didn't even have to sand the hole.
Perfect tutorial on making a mortice. I like the common sense approach and showing the tips and tricks that make it easier to be successful. Thank you!
... AND a chisel. 😉
I also used a pencil, a rule, an awl and a combination square. But the vast majority of the work was done with the forstner bit.
@@StumpyNubsgotta love smart-alec comments on UA-cam when someone posts a useful video
@@danielakerman8241It's a useful video, but the title is slightly deceiving; those two things are not mutually exclusive and one doesn't excuse the other.
If I explain every aspect of how to drive a car with an automatic transmission in a video, that's definitely a useful video, but if it's titled "how to drive any car" because I *assume* no one will have a manual transmission (or I'm so used to everyone having an automatic that lack of access to one doesn't even occur to me), I've still made a (totally correctable) mistake in giving the video a misleading title
No one is being a "smart alec" as far as I can tell; just giving honest, good-faith criticism.
Why was just the chisel left out of the title? Why not go all the way with the title: "How to make a square mortise with your hands"? Why do otherwise respectable ppl engage in this type of deception?
OK, FIRST time on your channel that I actually got something new and radical.. I've been doing scoring in sheet metal for 45 years.. But I never thought about a scored line in wood before - probably because a scored line in wood can be hard to see in some lighting.. but.. your pencil line makes it visible! Great tip!
I like this kind of videos, where newbies like me learn something! Thank you!
Sharpness of tools vital for accuracy! 👏👍😀
As always.
Great channel! Great content. I build traditional Square rule timberframe buildings. One thing I never see on UA-cam is a corner chisel. They are hard to find easy to make. Use a piece of 1 inch angle iron sharpen the inside edges and heat treat it. You don't need a fancy oven just heat to red hit and quench in oil. Weld a piece of solid rectangular steel to the 8 inch long piece of angle iron and make a wooden handle to slide over the steel tang. So nice to use on the inside corners. Fast and nice square corners. I took a timber framing school in Connecticut years ago and that was the first time I used one.
John, how do you sharpen the DIY corner chisel? I like your idea.
Most angle iron is mild steel so hardening and tempering won't do anything to improve its performance.
Nice idea - but you need welding equipment too! Mild steel angle iron will not harden with heat alone but could be case-hardened with correct compound.
Wow, gotta say for a newbie woodworker trying to get my wits about me, your videos are my go-to source. You're a true professional in woodworking and teaching! Thank you so much from someone that really cares about learning this craft the right way.
Ty for your videos. I work with minimal basic tools and this helps my next project a lot!!!
I use mortising bits in my press. If you want to do a few holes here and there this is good but if you have a lot it is nice to be able to just use the press to your advantage.
I love this video's with the old ways my father has shown me over 40 years ago!
I use a small bubble level on the end of my drill to help with maintaining vertical alignment. It's worked very well. Just super glue it and you're good to go.
My Ryobi has a bullseye level built in.
Very clear, I'll definitely try that. I especially like that you didn't assume everyone has high tech tools. Some of us just have the basics.
To help keep your drilled holes vertical, set up a bit in a block or vise so it is vertical (use a level), tighten your drill to that, then glue a 'bulls eye' bubble level to the back of the drill so the bubble is centered. These levels used to be very common as people used them to set up their record turntables, but they are still available if you look around out there. Also, if you drill some small -say 1/16 (1.5mm) - holes in each corner it is easier to get the chisel into that square corner (unless you are using a specialized mortise or register chisel) as bevel edged chisels tend to squeeze out of the corner due to the wedging action of the bevel, so you may have to make the cut a few times for each corner.
There are some adapters that make hand drills like a portable mini drilll press too. Not too hard to make (out of wood or even out of hardware store stuff, depending on how ingeneous you feel, plenty of YT tutorials), and honestly it is really handy in both senses.
I got mine at a tile store.
Great tips thanks. The small drilled hole idea is great. I've experienced the 'squeezed out chisel' problem often.
I really need to have a notepad handy when I watch your videos. So many tips!
Wow, that tip, finding the center, is something I've struggled with forever, and you made it so easy. THANKS!
I really like your videos, especially this one. But… not the title. I felt a little misled. But still a great how to. Thanks and keep it up!
Fantastic, thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
This video is a great help for me trying to learn mortise and tenon joinery. Thank you so much!
Brilliantly clear and easy - legend James! Thanks!
Thanks for the “straight forward”, but informative guide to mortising.
Great video Stumpy. Quick and simple. Thanks.
I would like to offer a few extra options as well, which I think are often overlooked. You can make round mortise and tenon as well (big round hole, big round tenon obviously). One I like even more, if you have any plunge routing capabilities (like a milling machine) or if you just really don't like or isn't good yet at squaring those corners after drilling like in the vid, just make a slow with rounded edges (like a "domino" slot, if you will). Ideally the tenon is a close match, but if it is gonna be invisible, a sloopish work at the round ends works too, glue and fine saw dust as a filler if you were really lazy, I mean sloppy. With just a few powertools and/or a chisel and rasp, I think it is both easy and sort of trivial (skill and experience aside) to figure them out and do them.
Never did the round one meself, but the pieces I've seen with it, no problem, besides a potential spinning in place in assembly or over time when the glue gives up. I actually prefer the rounded ends over traditional square ones for through mortise and tenons, just for the aesthetics. And you can do all traditional reinforcement techniques for square ones with these too (wedged, with a dowel/pin through the mortise and tenon, bolt through, same ideas, just adapted to a modified shape, also these fix the round one's potential spining).
Same here, never understood the reason why one needs a square mortise and tenon besides "We've always done it this way". The tools changed over time, why shouldn't the technique, too?
@@chrisr8996 I imagine because a round one relies on glue to prevent the tenon piece from turning whereas the square is locked in place. A square tenon is easier to produce with basic gear than a round one
For what is essentially an ad you gave us some really good simple tips, Well Done
It's not essentially an ad. It's a tutorial that contains an ad. Sponsors pay the bills. I try to fit the sponsor to the video rather than running ads for stuff that has no interest to someone watching woodworking tutorials.
I am not really into fine wood working but I found your tutorial fascinating and engaging. You are a great instructor! Thanks!
I have pretty much become accustomed to the "click-bait" titles. I am afraid they are here to stay. I immediately thought of round or oval tenons. No square corners required. Hope the guy with the center finding question got straightened out. Your method appeared perfectly clear to me. Been using it for years. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
BRILLIANT! Thanks again Stumpy. You’ve really helped me with SO many things.
As a rather new woodworker... i love you.
For those of us who are less adroit, there are hand drills with levels built in. My old corded DeWalt has one, and it's great for drilling a plumb hold spot on.
Several excellent tips. As always, thanks much, James.
You are really good at narrating and explaining what you're doing. Pretty exceptional
Pentel graphgear 1000, great pencils 👍
I really enjoy watching your videos.
I’m just starting with woodworking. This was very helpful. Thanks!!
Good stuff! Love my Fisch forstner bits!
Hey, look who it is! One of my other favorite youtube woodworkers!
@@robw95 Thanks Rob! 👊
I'm terrible at holding a drill straight. I use two-sided tape to attach a little round bubble level to the back of my drill when I need to make fairly precise holes.
love the way you explain things, man. thank you for the good content
It's good to see the basics covered in such a fashion, well done
These are excellent tips! Thank you very much.
This is such a great video. Great info and it is also great for someone new to follow. This is how it was always done but we forget with so many power options.
some things never get old. not that i ever really made a drawer (for example) but i've thought about it and watched a few vids.
good vid. easy to understand.
Excellent video, great information! Thank you…
Thanks James. Excellent tutorial for a noob like me!
Excellent, simple, practical and accessible, Thanks !
Great video, such an easy and to the point explanation. I appreciate that.
That was a great video. Some fantastic tips there on making a mortice. Thank you.
Great tip of using the awl to deepen the mark.
I like the shaving-brushing tape flap idea.
A real and practical tip.
Thanks a bunch for the tutorial, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I learnt that technique back in High School here in Australia back in the late 1960's, early 1970's. It is so much easier to enlarge a basic hole than create the hole with the chisel.
Keep the great videos coming,
Okay now there is some cool tips
that block at the end for a guide when chiselling down an edge, 👍👍👍👍👍
Outstanding video!!! Thanks for posting.
Love this video!
Simple, easy instructions!
Make a square hole with a chisel, and a forstner bit. ( no exclamation point required! ) 😃
I bought a Delta mortise machine Along with a 14 inch delta bandsaw. I bought it the last year Delta made their bandsaws in America.
The amazing disapearing knott:)))))
Kinda misleading, I was like, impossible!
Genius! Excellent technique. Thank you for sharing!
November 2024. Very usefull. Ty sir. ✌
You should've put "AND A CHISEL" at the end of your headline.
You have an excellent instructional technique. Thanks for the info.
That's good information James. Thanks for sharing with everyone. Fred.
Thank you sir, i had to share this
I thought it was a great video, very informative and helpful..... loved it!!!!❤
Glue and screws. Been doing that forever. It just works.
the marking is the difficult part for me, thank you for your tips
Nice clear explanation. Cheaper than a Mortice Machine, but more work. Just wish a Mortice Machine was not so expensive, as I don't do enough joints to justify getting one!
DARN... thought for sure you had found a NEW SQUARE DRILL BIT... LOL
Wish I had watched this yesterday before doing my first mortise/tenon joints ever (I did the tenons first ☹️).
As a matter of fact your mortise is determined by the size of your tenant. Which is always 1/3 of the thickness of your piece of wood. The exception being a thicker piece of wood that requires a double tenant in that the tenant is 2 1/6 part of the thickness of wood diving more as the width requires. This is simply trick my woodworking teacher taught me many years ago in Belgium
Sounds like you've been making 'landlord and tenant' joints rather than 'mortice and tenon'.
It is easy to drill straight usinh these bits since when they engage you have the possibility to see if the engagement is equal and adjust.
I didn't realize how bad my Forstner bits were until I saw you drill those holes like butter.
Great tips as always, Jim. I have a video topic idea for you. A while back you showed a router technique with a various bearing sizes to make panels with complementary curved edges that would fit together perfectly. Could you modify that technique to use only a straight bit of a common size (1/2"?) and a standard cheap bushing set like the Harbor Freight one? I haven't sat down to figure all the math to see what the proper size combinations would be, but it seems like it should be possible at first glance. Router bits can get expensive so it would be cool to be able to have a potentially cheaper alternative for someone who might already have a bushing set. Thanks for all the great content!
By the title i thought this was going to be some dark art, but no. I was pleased with the video though as it gives a couple of tips that most might not think about, and improve the finished job. Good work!
Thanks for this really helpful and informative video. I’ve learned a lot from it.👏👏
Thanks for this video. My basic tools fits into a toolbox.😆
At least I will be able to do the same quality type of job as your video now.👌🏼🙏🏼
It's a video about simple instruments. I awaited square holes with special drills.
1:05 I've been using this measuring technique this year and it's a game changer.
Very inspiring technique... Thank you very much 👌🏼😁
Always ......as always. Good advice
Just my level. Makes me want to make something
Can’t believe all the “hoohaa” about the title! Go Stumpy.
Nice video, well done. And you have a super nice collection of Narex chisels - my fav too. 😊
Voted up for the groove to guide the bit.
I need a much smaller mortise. But this was very helpful.
not clickbait, super informative & gets straight to the point.
When wood is being cut with a sharp chisel, it looks like shaved butter 🧈 😮
Great tip. Thank you.