U bring back memories things we use to do this kind of project for the schools we make use of the scrap turn in to gold...people like u and me we know.... but others dont get it...when rubbish scrap and lots off electronics are thrown away.. and people like us who cant afford to buy a new bike...then we turn the scraps in to gold .... cheers to you 🍻👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Fantastic creation. You are very skilled with hand-tools! I had a friend who's dad was an engineer for TWA (a long time ago) and he modified my friends mini-bike by substituting a torque converter for the centrifugal clutch like you are using. The centrifugal clutch as you are aware provides a single fixed gear ratio just like the rest of us had on our mini-bikes (1970's era). This torque-converter had a huge range of final drive ratios instead of just one. This made Scott's mini-bike outperform all of ours in every area, low-end torque for exceptional low speed acceleration from a dead stop, but the top end speed was twice as fast as any of us could achieve with our fixed gear ratio centrifugal clutch setup. I was a very jealous 12 year old kid, my dad was into bicycles not motorized two wheeled creations, and I could not afford to investigate getting one by myself. I don't know where his dad got the torque converter he used, but years later I found out that snowmobiles use the same kind of setup for operation with the final track drive system. see: ua-cam.com/video/pyNRKsYkVx4/v-deo.html If you used one this would also change your options for possibly making the final drive chain pivot point at the center-line of your swingarm mount which has numerous benefits I am sure you are aware of, like eliminating the need for a noisy chain tensioner. Actually, using a belt final drive would make the system much smoother, quieter and lower maintenance. Your engineering skills are obvious, and your expertise with a tig-welder is nothing short of amazing. This is a very impressive piece of work and I only mention the use of a torque converter because of the performance enhancement I believe you will achieve throughout the entire RPM range of the engine. I have a similar 200 cc (Predator) engine on my garden tiller I added as an upgrade from the 100 cc stock unit. With the governor in use which I assume yours still is, based on how I saw you connect the throttle cable, the preset RPM limiter gives you a fairly limited use of the entire powerband that engine is capable of producing. I do not know if these small displacement industrial engines have an electronic RPM limiter or not to keep you from throwing a rod, but I did not use the governor feature on my mini-bike (nobody did) and none of us ever threw a rod from over-revving the engines. But I suppose it is possible if you have a heavy hand on the throttle. However, with the use of a torque converter, by the time the converter locks into the 1 to 1 drive ratio, I suspect the top end speed attainable will probably push the performance envelope of your frame geometry to the limit and induce a high speed wobble, at which time self-preservation will act as your speed limiter control. Once you reach the beginning stages of a high-speed wobble, it is suicide to attempt to push through it. In my experience it never gets better only worse. One time a long time ago (1980) I ended up racing a guy who came up behind me in his generic 4 door impala and didn't want to back off, or go around me. So naturally I speed up and he stays on my butt up to about 90 miles per hour. I was on my Honda XL-250 Street/dirt bike then and it started into a high speed wobble, just the first stages where the front end wanders back and forth, and you look like a drunken sailor out for a joy ride. I had to back off the throttle and then he decides to pass me, flipping me the bird as he goes by me, which really pissed me off, so I attempted to go faster and immediately realized that was a grave mistake and had to shut down ASAP to avoid a "tank-slapper" see: ua-cam.com/video/NsGHbK8McDk/v-deo.html I had experienced one before riding in the dirt after a series of "whoop-de-doos", but never on the street at 90 mph. No amount of force I applied to the handlebars would fix it, the front end twisted my forks anyway. I felt kinda humiliated by this guy as he passed by me because my motorcycle had forced to slow down. I'm not really sure why he did what he did, except maybe to see how fast I could go. Five years later I bought my current ride, a 1985 FJ1100 "crotch-rocket". I have personally had it up to 140 mph and backed off before I got to redline in top gear. It's not how fast it goes that I like, it is how fast it gets there which makes it so entertaining to ride. Entrance ramps onto the highway are the most fun, especially the kind that slope down from a higher side road entrance. The acceleration combined with the drop in elevation gives a kind of "weightlessness" feel in the pit of my stomach, which is rather difficult to obtain on an earthbound vehicle, pulling negative G's. I have subscribed to your channel and will check out some of your other creations as well. Thank you for making this video. I liked how you keep it fast and simple to follow. I am totally blown away that you can accomplish so much without a drill-press!
Love the end credits "Because of the police, I couldn't get out on the road" & not "Because it's against the law, I couldn't get out on the road" lol.... It's only a crime if you get caught right!!! I like this way of thinking! Nice video - good work man
I have watched quite a few of your videos and Im very impressed with your skills. Most younger people and some older could learn a few things from watching you work. Great job keep it up SR
Clever, especially the use of the carrier bearings to create the steering head. Looked to me like a heavier spring might be needed for the chain tensioner. Speaking of the chain, it appeared to me that the master link retaining clip was installed backwards. You want the closed end facing the direction that the chain travels so that the retaining link isn't pushed off as it travels around the sprockets. I think you might want to position your gas tank a little higher also. Overall, good job. Two thumbs up.
What about the gearing? Isn't it to low? There should be a an rpm halfer somewhere. That clutch will burn away. The engine is at 3000rpm, and the wheel is at 1500rpm, its too high!!!
Otto say, "Good bike. Fast enough with small engine. Brakes always good things. Sometimes best to think before welding. Put propeller. Add wings. Drive off high cliff. Ultimate wee wee toy. Otherwise good construction job Joe!
The motorcycles horsepower development, and its smooth transfer to the rear wheel, need further refinement. The chain sprocket-drivetrain triangle and weights of various components must be reassessed. The bikes weight forces and drivetrain configuration must be balanced . Furthermore, shortening the wheel base and the use of both a narrower wheel and tire should be included in your initial experimental designs. But, why not consider the installation of a rear axle, using wide all terrain motorcycle or even car tires, and the creation of either a three or even a four wheeled vehicle. Undoubtedly, you would have fewer headaches, and begin experiencing the excitement and fun of your vehicle.
You may need a radial spring for your chain tensioner. That long spring will not work. You will be throwing that chain constantly. Get the spring (foundation) closer to the pivot point, if you are going axial. Weld a small tower to the top of the pivot block and drill a hole to attach a (heavy and short) spring to the tensioner "swing arm".
Here is a good tip. I noticed when you put the master link clip on. You should always put it on with the opening towards the opposite site of the rotation. If you have the opening in the front, ( the direction of travel ) , It can fly off.
If you remove the master link clip and instal it with the opening toward the rear, it won't be knocked off by anything that might come into contact with it such as brush, a piece of wood or tree limb etcetera.I see that you have moved the chain tensioner to a much better position. Good move. Nice to see you taking care of the details and even painting your work. I'm impressed, very nice creation of yours..
Dragi moj mladi graditelju, bio sam jako zadivljen vašom vještinom, ja sam Brazilac i živim ovdje u Rio de Janeiru, sramota je što nema mladih ljudi koji ovdje grade strojeve jednako tako dostojanstveno kao onaj koji ste izgradili. moje iskrene čestitke
Super creative... Glad the front brake handle was moved to the right where it belongs. Appears to be some serviceability issues with the hub assemblies, as they are all welded together.
Goed Doc 18! Sehr good! Realy nice. I fist thought the petrol/ gas/ benzien will not work. It must be gravity flow, but in the end of the video I see you change it. Good Idea. Now you must make more and sell your bikes!!! To us here in Africa. Merci.
Great build, looks awesome, but you need to get more chain tension. And now its time for some comfort stuff, better placement for the feet and some mud guards to protect you and your bike :-)
I like your style and the incentive and commitment to build, I was concerned by the following,........ you seem to be very hard on the power tools that you use, the frame and fittings are very hefty and industrial for the size engine, the lack of chain guard and the way it flaps about, this being said I enjoyed watching the build, and the very best of luck with your future projects.
This is so cool I bet it rides smooth as ever with those big wheels. Have you thought about cutting the stars out of the other two rims and weld them to the other sides of the of the wheels on the bike to fill them in?
Chain broke because when you rev, the chain whips up on that tensioner FAST pulling slack, and then stops dead when trying to rotate massive tire. Tensioner goes on BOTTOM (the "loose' side when accelerating)
Ok, as below.. Brake cylinder needs to be on top. also, fuel will not travel up past level. You need a fuel pump. thats the reason the old fuel cell is on top. of the engine. Great build, could have spend some cash on new tires though lol.....Much love, keep on building..
Hey. I watched the vid where you built the bike, to start with, and now the upgrade to it. I think you need to shorten the distance between your fuel cans, and raise them up above the carb...and Unless you have them on equal flow, there's enough leverage there to throw off the balance of the bike, not to mention, if you get too close to brush, it will get caught in behind the fuel brackets and do you some damage. (you could angle the brackets, too; so thst they would be less of a drag. Your fuel needs to be ABOVE the level it's going into your carb. Otherwise, when the level in your tank goes below that level, you won't have a flow and your engine will quit. You will have half a tank of gas that can't get to your engine. That type engine doesnt use a fuel pump...just gravity feed. (( I'm not complaining, for all those readers that will call me a TROLL, I'm brainstorming with him, to alleviate a problem, that I'm sure by now, he's found out about.)) Another item, put Lights on your bike, and register it and give the government their taxes and get a special low milage motorcycle tag and it should be ROAD READY...(make the police happy). THANKS AGAIN FOR AN AWSOME VIDEO...!!!
Hey. Nicely done. Don't worry too much about S**tposters on here. Most of them have never built anything. At least your doing it. That said. Sift through for design feedback. Here's mine. Either do a course or spend some time with a welder. Your welds may hold but as your relying on them. Learn. As has been stated your fuel cells either need to be above the carb to gravity feed it or you need a pump. Please either get a chain guard or something that stops your clothing getting caught in the chain. Trust me I've seen it, it's not pretty. But the girls do like scars. . . . Also. With the chain, look again at the tensioner design. That is simple but I'm sure you can think of something better. I like the simplicity of the steering stem but maybe look at a safety feature to stop linear movement through the bearings? I'd also query wheel alignment. Doesn't hurt to be as precise as possible. If you were doing road Tests with it any flaws will soon show up. Overall a good effort and keep building trying and above all. Learning. 😁 Your next one will be better and the one after that better again.
При закрытой крышке, канистру сплющит или топливо просто не будет поступать. И на таких балонах ровно она не поедет, в смысле не прямо, а именно ровно. Постоянно надо будет балансировать. А так конечно друда много потрачено. Лайк.
Bravo, very nice job for Eyeballing a lot of it! But the fuel tanks should face the other way! Will hold more fuel with the caps facing up to the rear! But I'm sure that's something you'll change as you refine it a little more. Great engineering!
Fuel tank issue? Surely the fuel tank has to be higher to give gravity feed? I noticed that the fuel line was rerouted prior to riding, but its still not good as you will get fuel starvation when the tank level gets below the level of the float chamber. Rethink maybe? Otherwise a great project .
Крайне опасное решение с цепью! Колесо - рама - двигатель должны быть жёстко соединены, а амортизировать надо сиденье водителя. При езде по пересечённой местности цепь будет слетать.
1) штаны заматает и ногу оторвёт. надо закрывать цепь чехлом. 2) амартизация объязательно нужна, почки загробишь. 3) рама пропелером тоже не годиться, не будет в колие держаться. Опасно, на повороте. (Лутше распелить и на металолом)
@@ЭрнестРыскулов Да конечно пойдет, но хотел толко на ошибки показать, так как сам конструктёр. я бы даже полегче колеса взял, ведь нагрузки большой нет, мопедные колёса вполне хватят для этого.
At least he made the bike, I still give him 2 thumbs up for that. To make something means to also accept things that comes with it, such as trial and error(s), success(es) and fail(s), finding out it needs improvement(s), correcting error(s) and so on. Yes it takes alot of resources, tools, money, time, patience, and so on, but when it's done, it's done, and that feels good, knowing you did it yourself, even if it's got flaw(s). Theres a saying : A journey begins with one step at a time. That applies here too.
I am sure he can swap the old engine for a better one, and look at the bike and find out what and where went wrong etc. Hes still got everything else that seems to be fine, aside from what appears to be a broken engine.
@@theroyalcrownedtiger2946 I liked this project a lot but i would try to install a regular motocycle front gas tank instead of those ones that could be used in a Willis perhaps... obviously to get a motocycle motor instead of that one. But After all i enjoyed watching this. Good work.
26:38 shows clutch is smoked from trying to drive that oversized front sprocket! Exhaust will fall off shortly after the video ends, when is part 3 showing him riding it & ending up in Hospital?! 😂
You wrecked that clutch by welding on that larger sprocket and you may snap the engine crankshaft off completely. Also the gearing will be much faster unless your rear sprocket is bigger than the one before. Also your muffler setup needs to be braced with rubber hanger or it can strip the bolts from the engine or break a chunk out of the head. If you ride it much you will see.I will say you are definitely a handy feller.
I was gonna say your original chain/sprocket would have worked, if the tensioner was on the bottom, but I see you adressed that. You could also use more gear reduction. Also your use of a helmet and riding gloves, but practically no ppe in the shop, is a bit contradictory behavior. Also, the haters probably couldn't find the on switch on a MIG welder. Keep building.
I kakav je za voznju? :) Mogao si napraviti rezervoar, sto te kante? Mozda si objasnjavao u videu, izvini, nisam ga celog odgledao, samo pocetak i kraj :)
You are doing great work kid but get a damn chain guard on that thing before; you regret it. Handle bars to weak in the center even if they snap at 25 mph you could cause serious damages or injury. That heavy chain and sprocket is a waist of time. It will eat that tiny clutch in no time flat. Need heavier clutch design or jack shaft or belt setup. Been there done that! Next time use Mystic metal mover in a tiny spray bottle when drilling hardened steel. If bits are sharpened well you can drill spring steel like butter. Welding hubs and sprocket all the way around may work on a mini bike. If you try that on any thing with more weight or power you will snap the shafts from welding all the way around. Cool video
constructive advices, this guy is only 19 years old, no education in any of these fields but with big talent and will! He is doing a great job in my opinion, considering that he is living in small and rural area of Croatia where is so hard to get almost any of materials and tools that he needs and use. He is on good path to achieve a great things in his life! I wish him all the luck in his future plans! Keep up with great work #doctorD.S
Merci Monsieur de nous avoir permis d'assister à la naissance de cet appareil improbable, au cours de laquelle vous nous avez montré votre ingéniosité et votre savoir faire....! Je vous souhaite une possible homologuation, et , qui sait, peut être des milliers de commandes....!
Yes job ☆Well Done☆ - and you are only very young too. I would recommend doing formal engineering studies at your University. You could end up with a high-paying job and middle-class status for you and your family.
You have a weak point where you welded the steering column to the steel tubing..should have drilled hole thru tubing and weld shaft to both sides of tubing...the shaft is the strength, weld holds it ...
I dot know if your putting a a bold at the end of the clutch but it will break off if the end has no support. The spring and little metal slides will hit you.
Para una pendiente no serviría de mucho, se quedaría atrás, un motor estacionario y de una marcha no sirve, tendría que haberle puesto uno de moto con transmisión de 5 velocidades o hasta un motor de scooter de 150 cc tiene más fuerza que ese motor, el peso de esas llantas y la dimensión de cada una más la relación de la transmisión tienen que empujarla para que se mueva
U bring back memories things we use to do this kind of project for the schools we make use of the scrap turn in to gold...people like u and me we know.... but others dont get it...when rubbish scrap and lots off electronics are thrown away.. and people like us who cant afford to buy a new bike...then we turn the scraps in to gold .... cheers to you 🍻👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hau, What did you turn to gold?
I have a few projects
С прошлой серии переживал за натяжитель цепи! Исправленно! Лайк!
Fantastic creation. You are very skilled with hand-tools! I had a friend who's dad was an engineer for TWA (a long time ago) and he modified my friends mini-bike by substituting a torque converter for the centrifugal clutch like you are using. The centrifugal clutch as you are aware provides a single fixed gear ratio just like the rest of us had on our mini-bikes (1970's era). This torque-converter had a huge range of final drive ratios instead of just one. This made Scott's mini-bike outperform all of ours in every area, low-end torque for exceptional low speed acceleration from a dead stop, but the top end speed was twice as fast as any of us could achieve with our fixed gear ratio centrifugal clutch setup. I was a very jealous 12 year old kid, my dad was into bicycles not motorized two wheeled creations, and I could not afford to investigate getting one by myself. I don't know where his dad got the torque converter he used, but years later I found out that snowmobiles use the same kind of setup for operation with the final track drive system. see: ua-cam.com/video/pyNRKsYkVx4/v-deo.html
If you used one this would also change your options for possibly making the final drive chain pivot point at the center-line of your swingarm mount which has numerous benefits I am sure you are aware of, like eliminating the need for a noisy chain tensioner. Actually, using a belt final drive would make the system much smoother, quieter and lower maintenance.
Your engineering skills are obvious, and your expertise with a tig-welder is nothing short of amazing. This is a very impressive piece of work and I only mention the use of a torque converter because of the performance enhancement I believe you will achieve throughout the entire RPM range of the engine.
I have a similar 200 cc (Predator) engine on my garden tiller I added as an upgrade from the 100 cc stock unit. With the governor in use which I assume yours still is, based on how I saw you connect the throttle cable, the preset RPM limiter gives you a fairly limited use of the entire powerband that engine is capable of producing. I do not know if these small displacement industrial engines have an electronic RPM limiter or not to keep you from throwing a rod, but I did not use the governor feature on my mini-bike (nobody did) and none of us ever threw a rod from over-revving the engines.
But I suppose it is possible if you have a heavy hand on the throttle. However, with the use of a torque converter, by the time the converter locks into the 1 to 1 drive ratio, I suspect the top end speed attainable will probably push the performance envelope of your frame geometry to the limit and induce a high speed wobble, at which time self-preservation will act as your speed limiter control.
Once you reach the beginning stages of a high-speed wobble, it is suicide to attempt to push through it. In my experience it never gets better only worse. One time a long time ago (1980) I ended up racing a guy who came up behind me in his generic 4 door impala and didn't want to back off, or go around me. So naturally I speed up and he stays on my butt up to about 90 miles per hour. I was on my Honda XL-250 Street/dirt bike then and it started into a high speed wobble, just the first stages where the front end wanders back and forth, and you look like a drunken sailor out for a joy ride. I had to back off the throttle and then he decides to pass me, flipping me the bird as he goes by me, which really pissed me off, so I attempted to go faster and immediately realized that was a grave mistake and had to shut down ASAP to avoid a "tank-slapper" see: ua-cam.com/video/NsGHbK8McDk/v-deo.html
I had experienced one before riding in the dirt after a series of "whoop-de-doos", but never on the street at 90 mph. No amount of force I applied to the handlebars would fix it, the front end twisted my forks anyway. I felt kinda humiliated by this guy as he passed by me because my motorcycle had forced to slow down. I'm not really sure why he did what he did, except maybe to see how fast I could go.
Five years later I bought my current ride, a 1985 FJ1100 "crotch-rocket". I have personally had it up to 140 mph and backed off before I got to redline in top gear. It's not how fast it goes that I like, it is how fast it gets there which makes it so entertaining to ride. Entrance ramps onto the highway are the most fun, especially the kind that slope down from a higher side road entrance. The acceleration combined with the drop in elevation gives a kind of "weightlessness" feel in the pit of my stomach, which is rather difficult to obtain on an earthbound vehicle, pulling negative G's.
I have subscribed to your channel and will check out some of your other creations as well. Thank you for making this video. I liked how you keep it fast and simple to follow. I am totally blown away that you can accomplish so much without a drill-press!
Love the end credits "Because of the police, I couldn't get out on the road" & not "Because it's against the law, I couldn't get out on the road" lol.... It's only a crime if you get caught right!!! I like this way of thinking! Nice video - good work man
Excellent work, It goes to show how a strong willingness and a little ingenuity can bring out a great product. Great built.
Idenya sangat luar biasa👍👍 salam dari indonesia ya😁
Kirain gak ada bahasa Indonesia
@@vidiokucing6581 😅
I have watched quite a few of your videos and Im very impressed with your skills. Most younger people and some older could learn a few things from watching you work. Great job keep it up SR
Clever, especially the use of the carrier bearings to create the steering head. Looked to me like a heavier spring might be needed for the chain tensioner. Speaking of the chain, it appeared to me that the master link retaining clip was installed backwards. You want the closed end facing the direction that the chain travels so that the retaining link isn't pushed off as it travels around the sprockets. I think you might want to position your gas tank a little higher also. Overall, good job. Two thumbs up.
What about the gearing? Isn't it to low? There should be a an rpm halfer somewhere. That clutch will burn away. The engine is at 3000rpm, and the wheel is at 1500rpm, its too high!!!
With tires that wide it won't corner well, motorcycle tires are much rounder so the bike can lean over.
Not bad for a 15 year old. Keep tweaking your skills and by the time you reach manhood, you'll be a master.
i just noticed the chain flew off at the very end during the burnout 😁😁
nice job on the build
Otto say, "Good bike. Fast enough with small engine. Brakes always good things. Sometimes best to think before welding.
Put propeller. Add wings. Drive off high cliff. Ultimate wee wee toy. Otherwise good construction job Joe!
The motorcycles horsepower development, and its smooth transfer to the rear wheel, need further refinement. The chain sprocket-drivetrain triangle and weights of various components must be reassessed. The bikes weight forces and drivetrain configuration must be balanced . Furthermore, shortening the wheel base and the use of both a narrower wheel and tire should be included in your initial experimental designs. But, why not consider the installation of a rear axle, using wide all terrain motorcycle or even car tires, and the creation of either a three or even a four wheeled vehicle. Undoubtedly, you would have fewer headaches, and begin experiencing the excitement and fun of your vehicle.
You may need a radial spring for your chain tensioner. That long spring will not work. You will be throwing that chain constantly. Get the spring (foundation) closer to the pivot point, if you are going axial. Weld a small tower to the top of the pivot block and drill a hole to attach a (heavy and short) spring to the tensioner "swing arm".
This young man definitely has a mind n skills for fabricating things that others dream of.
Here is a good tip. I noticed when you put the master link clip on. You should always put it on with the opening towards the opposite site of the rotation. If you have the opening in the front, ( the direction of travel ) , It can fly off.
Chain was good enough, tensioner was in wrong place......
Nice bike, keep going!
Excellent man.. keep it on . Keep going . One Day you will make a super bike as good as Harley. Go for the best. 👍👍👍
If you remove the master link clip and instal it with the opening toward the rear, it won't be knocked off by anything that might come into contact with it such as brush, a piece of wood or tree limb etcetera.I see that you have moved the chain tensioner to a much better position. Good move. Nice to see you taking care of the details and even painting your work. I'm impressed, very nice creation of yours..
awesome to see a young genious at work. truly amazingly awesome . god bless u son.
Genius? I thought it was suppoost to be the opposite. I must be wrong
Bravo bre hrvatski majstore 😱👌💪
Pozdrav iz albania
Iz Hrvatske sam ja ;)
Dragi moj mladi graditelju, bio sam jako zadivljen vašom vještinom, ja sam Brazilac i živim ovdje u Rio de Janeiru, sramota je što nema mladih ljudi koji ovdje grade strojeve jednako tako dostojanstveno kao onaj koji ste izgradili.
moje iskrene čestitke
Tnx broo
@@DShomemade Brother, is it means "thanks brother"? hahahaha, lol,
Nice work! Any problems with the fuel sistem? Because it is
gravity based and the new fuel tank sits preaty low...
Masz ty pomysły geniusz motoryzacji 👍🏼😀
Not bad around 31 mph plenty speed to get you where u need to go great work 👍
Super creative... Glad the front brake handle was moved to the right where it belongs. Appears to be some serviceability issues with the hub assemblies, as they are all welded together.
Thank you friend, you are creative and aggressive, good health and success always... greetings from Syahril from Indonesia
Goed Doc 18! Sehr good! Realy nice. I fist thought the petrol/ gas/ benzien will not work. It must be gravity flow, but in the end of the video I see you change it. Good Idea. Now you must make more and sell your bikes!!! To us here in Africa. Merci.
Keep up what your doing..
Very smart kid....
Love watching your videos
Great build, looks awesome, but you need to get more chain tension.
And now its time for some comfort stuff, better placement for the feet and some mud guards to protect you and your bike :-)
I like your style and the incentive and commitment to build, I was concerned by the following,........ you seem to be very hard on the power tools that you use, the frame and fittings are very hefty and industrial for the size engine, the lack of chain guard and the way it flaps about, this being said I enjoyed watching the build, and the very best of luck with your future projects.
The first thing to hit the ground WHEN it falls over is the fuel tanks. I see sparks and fire. Not good.
Vrijeme leti kada gledas kvalitetne i poucne videe. Samo naprijed Davide, uskoro smo na 1 mil !!! Imas odma za giveaway!!
hehe Hvala ti od
This is so cool I bet it rides smooth as ever with those big wheels. Have you thought about cutting the stars out of the other two rims and weld them to the other sides of the of the wheels on the bike to fill them in?
Hey,that is great idea!!!!
Chain broke because when you rev, the chain whips up on that tensioner FAST pulling slack, and then stops dead when trying to rotate massive tire. Tensioner goes on BOTTOM (the "loose' side when accelerating)
Mantap sob.... kalau dekat mungkin aku minta bikin kan motor seperti itu👍👍👍👍👍
Great build! Would like to see performance off-road. Nice work.
I wish i have a brother like you. Making my toy into reality.
Ok, as below.. Brake cylinder needs to be on top. also, fuel will not travel up past level. You need a fuel pump. thats the reason the old fuel cell is on top. of the engine. Great build, could have spend some cash on new tires though lol.....Much love, keep on building..
Hey. I watched the vid where you built the bike, to start with, and now the upgrade to it. I think you need to shorten the distance between your fuel cans, and raise them up above the carb...and Unless you have them on equal flow, there's enough leverage there to throw off the balance of the bike, not to mention, if you get too close to brush, it will get caught in behind the fuel brackets and do you some damage. (you could angle the brackets, too; so thst they would be less of a drag. Your fuel needs to be ABOVE the level it's going into your carb. Otherwise, when the level in your tank goes below that level, you won't have a flow and your engine will quit. You will have half a tank of gas that can't get to your engine. That type engine doesnt use a fuel pump...just gravity feed. (( I'm not complaining, for all those readers that will call me a TROLL, I'm brainstorming with him, to alleviate a problem, that I'm sure by now, he's found out about.)) Another item, put Lights on your bike, and register it and give the government their taxes and get a special low milage motorcycle tag and it should be ROAD READY...(make the police happy). THANKS AGAIN FOR AN AWSOME VIDEO...!!!
JnjinJno
Hey. Nicely done. Don't worry too much about S**tposters on here. Most of them have never built anything. At least your doing it. That said. Sift through for design feedback. Here's mine. Either do a course or spend some time with a welder. Your welds may hold but as your relying on them. Learn. As has been stated your fuel cells either need to be above the carb to gravity feed it or you need a pump. Please either get a chain guard or something that stops your clothing getting caught in the chain. Trust me I've seen it, it's not pretty. But the girls do like scars. . . . Also. With the chain, look again at the tensioner design. That is simple but I'm sure you can think of something better. I like the simplicity of the steering stem but maybe look at a safety feature to stop linear movement through the bearings? I'd also query wheel alignment. Doesn't hurt to be as precise as possible. If you were doing road Tests with it any flaws will soon show up. Overall a good effort and keep building trying and above all. Learning. 😁 Your next one will be better and the one after that better again.
your a very talented young man Keep up the good work . Enjoyed it very much
En buena liga este tipo es un carbón me encantó este invento. Tanta habilidad y tanta gente vaga en éste mundo.
При закрытой крышке, канистру сплющит или топливо просто не будет поступать. И на таких балонах ровно она не поедет, в смысле не прямо, а именно ровно. Постоянно надо будет балансировать. А так конечно друда много потрачено. Лайк.
Excelente serviço, profissional na montagem e acabamento,motinha show de bola
Odlican rad i cestitam ovo je genijalno nigdje nisam vidio nista slicno . Stavi mu za pogon tomosov elektron 90 bit ce pila samo takva. Cestitam!
hehehe Hvala ti
Mad Crazy Skillz Dude! Bravo!
Bravo! Lavoro molto ingegnoso!
Thats the test drive I was waiting for thank you doc
That was one awesome build great job I want to see more you work
Parabéns pelo projeto, ficou show de bola!!!
Nice job! But I still love my little Yamaha motorcycle.😊
Намертво приваренные задние ступицы - "гениальное" конструкторское решение😂
super ti je vozilo..... da li je moguce osigurati motor i dobiti tablice?
Bravo, very nice job for Eyeballing a lot of it! But the fuel tanks should face the other way! Will hold more fuel with the caps facing up to the rear! But I'm sure that's something you'll change as you refine it a little more. Great engineering!
Hmmm i think the fuel tanks will make it unbalanced when one is full and the other one is not its beter if he made just one and put it in the center
Nice Job Man!!! I think you may have problems with the gas flow. It's gravity flow and the hose is too far up, unless you put a small fuel pump in..
no shock absorber on front tire? It will break intsantly on a bump.
Congratulations man you're a genius keep up the good work. It's amazing
Great work,and great video. Looks fun to ride.
este hombre es simple y sencillamente un GENIO. DIOSS que cerebro, que ingenio.
Well done, from scratch.. Great job!!
With all terrain tires or even balloon tires, it could be made to use in many desert and off road venues, if the cost of production is low.
Fuel tank issue?
Surely the fuel tank has to be higher to give gravity feed? I noticed that the fuel line was rerouted prior to riding, but its still not good as you will get fuel starvation when the tank level gets below the level of the float chamber. Rethink maybe?
Otherwise a great project .
Крайне опасное решение с цепью! Колесо - рама - двигатель должны быть жёстко соединены, а амортизировать надо сиденье водителя. При езде по пересечённой местности цепь будет слетать.
Man that's some nice work good job👍😁
Good job. Can I suggest You to add a bar from seat to handlebar and put fuel tank on this bar?
1) штаны заматает и ногу оторвёт. надо закрывать цепь чехлом.
2) амартизация объязательно нужна, почки загробишь.
3) рама пропелером тоже не годиться, не будет в колие держаться. Опасно, на повороте.
(Лутше распелить и на металолом)
Eduard Dick для первого опыта пойдет."проба пера"
@@ЭрнестРыскулов Да конечно пойдет, но хотел толко на ошибки показать, так как сам конструктёр. я бы даже полегче колеса взял, ведь нагрузки большой нет, мопедные колёса вполне хватят для этого.
@@eduarddick8510 согласен
но он автор ему и решать
Nice punkmusic at 10:00. I like the improvements.
All that effort, 200 cc engine and 50km/h! Blow it up
At least he made the bike, I still give him 2 thumbs up for that.
To make something means to also accept things that comes with it, such as trial and error(s), success(es) and fail(s), finding out it needs improvement(s), correcting error(s) and so on.
Yes it takes alot of resources, tools, money, time, patience, and so on, but when it's done, it's done, and that feels good, knowing you did it yourself, even if it's got flaw(s).
Theres a saying : A journey begins with one step at a time. That applies here too.
I am sure he can swap the old engine for a better one, and look at the bike and find out what and where went wrong etc.
Hes still got everything else that seems to be fine, aside from what appears to be a broken engine.
@@theroyalcrownedtiger2946 I liked this project a lot but i would try to install a regular motocycle front gas tank instead of those ones that could be used in a Willis perhaps... obviously to get a motocycle motor instead of that one. But After all i enjoyed watching this. Good work.
26:38 shows clutch is smoked from trying to drive that oversized front sprocket! Exhaust will fall off shortly after the video ends, when is part 3 showing him riding it & ending up in Hospital?! 😂
Sir, your work is very well appreciated You did amazing ماشاءاللّه
Ficou muito legal!!! Eu só colocaria uns para-lamas pra não tomar um banho de lama na rua.👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
I love it . Do you have blueprints to build another. I'd like to try it.
Mechanical genius,only is not English speaking.however,salute to the man.
good job, good work and good result. amazing
Good project, but those bearings holding the handlebar aren't prepared for axial stress, you shouldn' use them in that way
REALLY great inspiriting work!
You wrecked that clutch by welding on that larger sprocket and you may snap the engine crankshaft off completely. Also the gearing will be much faster unless your rear sprocket is bigger than the one before. Also your muffler setup needs to be braced with rubber hanger or it can strip the bolts from the engine or break a chunk out of the head. If you ride it much you will see.I will say you are definitely a handy feller.
I was gonna say your original chain/sprocket would have worked, if the tensioner was on the bottom, but I see you adressed that. You could also use more gear reduction. Also your use of a helmet and riding gloves, but practically no ppe in the shop, is a bit contradictory behavior. Also, the haters probably couldn't find the on switch on a MIG welder. Keep building.
Great! Supercool project. Congratulations! :) Cheers.
It looked great it was a nice build
I kakav je za voznju? :) Mogao si napraviti rezervoar, sto te kante? Mozda si objasnjavao u videu, izvini, nisam ga celog odgledao, samo pocetak i kraj :)
Pozdrav iz Hrvatske iz Solina.
Obozavam gledat tvoje videe i volia bi da snimas malo cesce 2 puta tjedno barem.😎
Hvala ti care mojj
@@DShomemade ja imam 14 godina i obozavam radit u radioni
master cylinders dont work upside down. Puts air bubbles in lines and that does not work well.
I don't know why you circled the exhaust around the chain and under the motor. I would have gone straight back under the seat.
You are doing great work kid but get a damn chain guard on that thing before; you regret it. Handle bars to weak in the center even if they snap at 25 mph you could cause serious damages or injury. That heavy chain and sprocket is a waist of time. It will eat that tiny clutch in no time flat. Need heavier clutch design or jack shaft or belt setup. Been there done that! Next time use Mystic metal mover in a tiny spray bottle when drilling hardened steel. If bits are sharpened well you can drill spring steel like butter. Welding hubs and sprocket all the way around may work on a mini bike. If you try that on any thing with more weight or power you will snap the shafts from welding all the way around. Cool video
constructive advices, this guy is only 19 years old, no education in any of these fields but with big talent and will! He is doing a great job in my opinion, considering that he is living in small and rural area of Croatia where is so hard to get almost any of materials and tools that he needs and use. He is on good path to achieve a great things in his life! I wish him all the luck in his future plans!
Keep up with great work #doctorD.S
SWEEEEEET! You gotta move the exhaust up and put some knobbies on that beauty.
Super video , i odlicna ideja 😉 bilo bi dobro kad bi nabavio neku " akcisku cam " da snimis iz * prvog lica* kako izgleda 😉
Imam samo loša kvaliteta :D
Nice build, thought you might have issues with the drive chain tension ;)
Merci Monsieur de nous avoir permis d'assister à la naissance de cet appareil improbable, au cours de laquelle vous nous avez montré votre ingéniosité et votre savoir faire....!
Je vous souhaite une possible homologuation, et , qui sait, peut être des milliers de commandes....!
I MUST SAY YOU ARE VERY SMART PERSON .
Good work bigman
Yes job ☆Well Done☆ - and you are only very young too. I would recommend doing formal engineering studies at your University. You could end up with a high-paying job and middle-class status for you and your family.
So Good Job my Brother ...
Hvala brate mojj
You have a weak point where you welded the steering column to the steel tubing..should have drilled hole thru tubing and weld shaft to both sides of tubing...the shaft is the strength, weld holds it ...
I dot know if your putting a a bold at the end of the clutch but it will break off if the end has no support. The spring and little metal slides will hit you.
СПАСИБО УЧИТЕЛЯМ ГЕНИЯ САМОДЕЛКИ.
Awesome work bro, nice custom, try to red paint to your velg, its can be cool bro 😍.
Awesome bro you are best👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Para una pendiente no serviría de mucho, se quedaría atrás, un motor estacionario y de una marcha no sirve, tendría que haberle puesto uno de moto con transmisión de 5 velocidades o hasta un motor de scooter de 150 cc tiene más fuerza que ese motor, el peso de esas llantas y la dimensión de cada una más la relación de la transmisión tienen que empujarla para que se mueva