I have to say Sam I really enjoyed that video. It was really awesome how you pointed out some techs like to take pictures of the wiring and do not want to read schematics. Your a great teacher
For $45 dealer I use the Emerson SmartSwitch which is far superior electronic Contactor. It’s better protection of equipment and has nifty features for brown out protection and zero off switching (zero off is when an AC sine wave crosses the center line “zero volts” lowest arc). Takes an extra 10 minutes to install if mounting hole pattern is different. It’s about 3 inches wide. Very well thought out engineering. For dealer around $200, I am also a fan of adding SIEMENS SurgeGuard at the load center to suppress in home transient spikes from other motor inductive appliances. Yet, I offer it as a system upgrade and I do not mention the “whole house” wording from the manufacturer because in as much that it is a whole house protector, I don’t want call backs if someone’s tv does not work after a storm. The newer AC units and higher end circuit boards need the added protections. The SIEMENS has a beep feature if a hit was so bad it failed. This one feature is highly beneficial as few will go look at surge protector LEDs after install. Many don’t understand that surge protectors can die in time. Chipping away hits degrade the MOVs over time and a bad hit can blow the unit useless. The down side is the unit is big and typically is to be mounted on the outside of an electrical panel so any drywall surrounding the panel will be an issue.
Nicely explained sam great teaching vid. Can you do a vid on how to properly check if it needs refrigerant through superheat if its a piston or subcooling if its a txv. Thanks!
Sam I enjoy your work. Just one suggestion: Always wear Gloves and eye protection and then pull the disconnect before removing or replacing the cover panel. I have seen other guys let the smoke out and once it is out you can't put it back in. God Bless you.
Nice vid. Only downfall to pushing contacter to test compressor and fan is that some units have relays that need to be energized by the low voltage before they will run. As long as you look at your diagram you’ll know if that’s the case. Could misdiagnose a bad compressor or fan.
The other advantage of examining the wiring per the schematic is that it will immediately let the technician know whether the thing has been modified or not, or even if it was improperly configured from new. Simply disconnecting/reconnecting wires will work most times, but may also propagate mistakes, or conceal some important history of modifications.
Peter you are correct. Thank you for adding to the channel. I honestly agree with your comment. You never know how or why the last guy did such and such just to get the system to run. 👍
Hey Sam enjoy your videos could you make a video on controls of an electric heating system it would be much appreciated trying to learn as much as I can, been working as a helper for about a month now and just looking to further educate myself. Thanks man
Nice informative video Sam. My AC unit outside fan has not been coming on for 2 years now. I recently replaced the old capacitor with a larger one that was wider but the numbers matched with the old one 370 VAC except it also read 370 or 440 VAC and the Hz on the new one was 50 or 60. The old one was 60 Hz. The older one was the long skinny dual run capacitor. I put it on and the fan still isn’t coming on. There is a quiet electrical noise by the compressor that I have to put my ear against the side of the unit to hear. I was advised by Grainger to get the Dayton capacitor but I ordered the Powerwell one instead. Do you know what it could be? It hasn’t worked in 2 years. Thank you and God Bless. Aaron
overall fuse is blown. is it normal for a continuity test for a wire from disconnect to wire of compressor to be continuous? [both wires are disconnected from the contactor.]
i am trying to find out the best drop in replacement for r22 so i can be knowedgeable when and if that time comes for my home unit (lennox, 5 ton w/ copeland scroll compressor). will you advise?......g
I've always heard to check continuity only when power is off. I thought it would blow an internal fuse of the multimeter. Is it actually not required...
... because I had 24 volts the plunger was already pulled in. Doing a continuity test does not interrupt the system. The thermostat calls for cool... the low voltage wires on the contactor energize ... causing plunger to pull in. At that point I am using the multimeter to give me a reading. On or off does not matter. You can see in the video nothing caused the system to fail with me taking a reading with the power on that is not to say it will never happen. With that being said... If you are more comfortable with the system off then by all means do what is best for you. 🙂 Thank you for the question 👍
Sam, The videos you put out are real good. Short and full of the things you need to know.
Bravo Goodfellow very informative and descriptive video. I've been doing maintenance for 13 years and still learned something. Well done
I have to say Sam I really enjoyed that video. It was really awesome how you pointed out some techs like to take pictures of the wiring and do not want to read schematics. Your a great teacher
The best video every on trouble shooting heating and air.
beautiful versus God bless you and multiply your wisdom and bless your family and all those around you
For $45 dealer I use the Emerson SmartSwitch which is far superior electronic Contactor. It’s better protection of equipment and has nifty features for brown out protection and zero off switching (zero off is when an AC sine wave crosses the center line “zero volts” lowest arc). Takes an extra 10 minutes to install if mounting hole pattern is different. It’s about 3 inches wide. Very well thought out engineering.
For dealer around $200, I am also a fan of adding SIEMENS SurgeGuard at the load center to suppress in home transient spikes from other motor inductive appliances. Yet, I offer it as a system upgrade and I do not mention the “whole house” wording from the manufacturer because in as much that it is a whole house protector, I don’t want call backs if someone’s tv does not work after a storm. The newer AC units and higher end circuit boards need the added protections. The SIEMENS has a beep feature if a hit was so bad it failed. This one feature is highly beneficial as few will go look at surge protector LEDs after install. Many don’t understand that surge protectors can die in time. Chipping away hits degrade the MOVs over time and a bad hit can blow the unit useless. The down side is the unit is big and typically is to be mounted on the outside of an electrical panel so any drywall surrounding the panel will be an issue.
Nicely explained sam great teaching vid. Can you do a vid on how to properly check if it needs refrigerant through superheat if its a piston or subcooling if its a txv. Thanks!
Sam I enjoy your work. Just one suggestion: Always wear Gloves and eye protection and then pull the disconnect before removing or replacing the cover panel. I have seen other guys let the smoke out and once it is out you can't put it back in. God Bless you.
Thanks for all of your videos brother.
Nice vid. Only downfall to pushing contacter to test compressor and fan is that some units have relays that need to be energized by the low voltage before they will run. As long as you look at your diagram you’ll know if that’s the case. Could misdiagnose a bad compressor or fan.
The other advantage of examining the wiring per the schematic is that it will immediately let the technician know whether the thing has been modified or not, or even if it was improperly configured from new. Simply disconnecting/reconnecting wires will work most times, but may also propagate mistakes, or conceal some important history of modifications.
Peter you are correct. Thank you for adding to the channel. I honestly agree with your comment. You never know how or why the last guy did such and such just to get the system to run. 👍
Great video very helpful keep up the good work Sam
I appreciate the encouraging feedback. Its UA-camrs like you that I am mindful of when making a video. Thank you for the support! 🙂
i was learned another views to test a busted contactor..tnx for your video sir..
Thank you for watching 😁
Hey Sam enjoy your videos could you make a video on controls of an electric heating system it would be much appreciated trying to learn as much as I can, been working as a helper for about a month now and just looking to further educate myself. Thanks man
Nice informative video Sam. My AC unit outside fan has not been coming on for 2 years now. I recently replaced the old capacitor with a larger one that was wider but the numbers matched with the old one 370 VAC except it also read 370 or 440 VAC and the Hz on the new one was 50 or 60. The old one was 60 Hz. The older one was the long skinny dual run capacitor. I put it on and the fan still isn’t coming on. There is a quiet electrical noise by the compressor that I have to put my ear against the side of the unit to hear. I was advised by Grainger to get the Dayton capacitor but I ordered the Powerwell one instead.
Do you know what it could be? It hasn’t worked in 2 years.
Thank you and God Bless.
Aaron
Very good video,, bravo my brother...
Does it matter if you accidentally install the T1 wires to the t2 side and the T2 to wires to the T1 side???
How did you get 120v on the T1 and T2, yet not 240v across the two?
I agree the contractor may be faulty, but something is screwy.
@ 7:18
No issues. Once the contactor was replaced the system operated properly. It was a faulty contactor 👍
Great job brother!! Tnx
Thanks. What causes a stuck contactor but no fan and no compressor.
overall fuse is blown. is it normal for a continuity test for a wire from disconnect to wire of compressor to be continuous? [both wires are disconnected from the contactor.]
i am trying to find out the best drop in replacement for r22 so i can be knowedgeable when and if that time comes for my home unit (lennox, 5 ton w/ copeland scroll compressor). will you advise?......g
I've always heard to check continuity only when power is off. I thought it would blow an internal fuse of the multimeter. Is it actually not required...
... because I had 24 volts the plunger was already pulled in. Doing a continuity test does not interrupt the system.
The thermostat calls for cool... the low voltage wires on the contactor energize ... causing plunger to pull in. At that point I am using the multimeter to give me a reading. On or off does not matter. You can see in the video nothing caused the system to fail with me taking a reading with the power on that is not to say it will never happen. With that being said... If you are more comfortable with the system off then by all means do what is best for you. 🙂 Thank you for the question 👍
Thank you Sam
Is it safe to work on 24 volts live?
Yes however you should always confirm that it is low voltage regardless. With that being said you will not get shocked or hurt working on 24 volts 🙂
Sam where are you buddy?? Need more vids