I believe the most common SLA resins are just for show, not strength, though I do believe you can get resins that are stronger. Some commercial resins are hard like a really dense and smooth concrete. :) If you end up experimenting with stronger resins it would be cool to see PLA+ or other strong versions. I love your tests, keep up the great work!
@@RajinderYadav I use high strength resins on my personal Formlabs form 3 3d printer to get high-quality prototypes. I think you can use good resins without a commercial 3d printer to get very strong parts. I also use all kinds of commercial elastic resins for unique parts.
@@RajinderYadav I use an automated wash and cure system to make the process easier and faster. The price of Formlabs official resins is also quite absurd so I modified one of their empty cartridges with a small part from Protoart and now I can use that cartridge with any third-party material and refill it whenever I run out. I usually like to buy from ApplyLabWork whose materials are half the price of Formlabs resin.
Oh is this true cus I was thinking of getting a resin printer but I’ve been seeing how weak they are and I need them to a be abit strong should I still gets resin , input would be much appreciated!
The water washable resins are very brittle, especially compared to the stronger types. The only other type I've used is Siraya's ABS-like resin and it's much tougher, i'm considering trying it for functional parts. There are tons of resin formulas, for conductivity, strength, flexibility and other material properties. I've also read many posts where people have mixed resins to a achieve a blend of material properties.
You have done a very nice job of comparing the two materials with quantitative analysis. I'm impressed. I love your hoist setup to test tensile strength. Then you did a very nice job of gathering all the information into the spreadsheet for quick comparison of the data. You put a lot of time and effort into making the setup for the tests. I make and post videos under another account (which is why you won't find any videos associated with this account) and nothing I do is nearly as good as what you've done here. Thank you for the time and effort to make and post this video. I am considering purchasing a 3D printer and this information was very helpful to me in trying to choose between FDM and resin printing.
@@mikhaelchernogorsky556 The tough resin won't work better for this - it'll likely be worse. It's tougher against impact at the expense of tensile strength and dimensional stability under load. Ironically, the standard resin has among the highest tensile strength.
@@christopherkemsley4758 so if I want to print some mount or joint that will carry a weight on it it is better to use strong PLA materials like nylon rather than tough resin?
Nice video and great testing but as you also hinted to at the end there is a big problem with the comparability here. On the one side is PLA and while there are also many types here, that is a specific material. On the other side you just have a generic resin that is not intended to be used in physically demanding tasks. Of course there is a point here, that the cheapest material for FDM (pla) is much stronger than cheap resin but that is just the way it is. Resin printers exist in the first place because of the great quality and accuracy. If you want high performance in SLA you need to get specialized resin, just as you would get specialized filament for FDM if you wanted to get the best possible quality prints.
Yes, this is just test about regular PLA and Resin. I ordered these resin bolts, and of course, company created it using most popular (probably economic) material.
I use Siraya Tech resins and get great results with strength. I mix my own resins with combos of Tenacious and Elegoo, Sculpt, Build, and a few others. Strength can be obtained with SLA, it just takes some playing around. And orientation DOES matter, you still have layers. Great video though, thanks!
I have been a bit jealous of the nice details of the resin printers, but as most of my projects are functional and not only esthetic I’m happy I choose a FDM one. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
I had to replace a kitchen sink screw few years ago with a printed one. The PLA one hold up the job for few weeks until boiling water was drained. Next one I printed in ABS and 3 years later it is still going strong, no leak no problem with boiling water being drained. BTW I had to print this bolt nut combination as the sink was old and no spare parts were available.
@@3dgussner958 do you prefer fdm or resin? And which printer would be stronger? For printing car interior parts...? And it has to be in high detail aswell
@@Thatguy-jh2ex I don't have a resin printer and can't say if there's any resin that withstand the heat in a car. Also these have often small build volumes, so depending on the object you want to print. Abs and asa aren't easy to print but holding up the high temperatures.
The resin is still amply strong just so long as care is taken to use it in situations where it's weaknesses are not exposed and its strengths are taken advantage of. For example, I needed a new very large nut that is 66mm in diameter and 21mm thick - it is used in the thrust plane and not the rotational plane to limit the amount of turns a worm gear shaft that drives it can make (the nut hits stoppers either end of it when it travels along the worm gear shaft). What matters for this particular part is a smooth finish and resistance to cracking and delamination versus outright strength and in any case it is designed to be a sacrificial part - meaning it is supposed to deliberately wear so that the components it interfaces with do not. It works extremely well. The resin they used still has a shore D hardness of 85 and is 50 MPa so it is pretty robust.
Resins are great for modeling but not for practical use like FDM printers. That was what I found in my research before purchasing my 3D printer. Thank you for this, as this helps many of us know the limitations of PLA prints without spending the time on the research. Keep up the great work/videos!
Also keep in mind that resin also has layer lines what weaken it so those should have been printed in same format as pla bolts however I still think resign is going to be weaker by far it’s just to brittle needs to be abs like resin or a tough resin.
how wonderful.. a great backyard test with real equations and instrumentation values... this makes choosing the plastic much more logical... thanks a lot...:)
I solved the elephants food on my resin printer (Anycubic) by lowering the exposure of the first layer. All resins are different so you'll need to figure this out by trial and error. And for the tight nut threads, I adjusted the tolerances on Chitubox by trial and error. My nuts and bolts fit perfectly straight out of the print and also fit their matching metal fasteners no problem. I just print them standing up with no supports too. Hope that helps anyone.
WOW - thanks. I like tests like this and it's great that you have a summary page. I look forward to seeing the future tests you do. I subscribed to your channel. I am surprised they have elephant foot. A service that prints things should know that you print these things off the build plate and use supports. They should have been printed at an angle too. You really need to retest with a better resin print. I hope you have time to do that. (Assuming you already haven't.)
this is the first video of yours that I have watched, and I want to say that I loved it. Thank you so much for the information - it was very useful. I will be subscribing to your channel
well epoxy and printer resin are kinda not the same thing. i was thinking of dipping my prints into epoxy for strength and that crystal clear protective layer but not sure if it helps
Great job of stress testing and backing up evidences with spreadsheets. Also the used of video evidence is helpful. Sounds like fdm augmented with other materials can exceed the current capabilities of resin. Now if resin or sla can be augmented that would provide additional capability that is not currently available. Thanks again.
Why SLA bolts have been printer in vertical position and PLA horizontal? Should be the same for tests :) But anyway thanks a lot for this :) Ah didn't watch to the end :) Let's see with prints the same position.
Should do the same, there are several fairly scientific tests out there that show little to no effect of print orientation. And PLA is a really really strong plasticy material if you don't require that it bends (i.e. tensile strength) which is what it mostly tested here while standard resins just can't deal with that because they shatter.
@@zapl80 No effect of print orientation? This video would seem to disagree: ua-cam.com/video/ZiQek0wei1g/v-deo.html Vertical prints are much weaker since the print lines run perpendicular to the direction of force.
I expect printing a bolt horizontally on an SLA printer will be be quite difficult. Resin will tend to "pool" in the threads on the side nearest the build plate, leaving the threads filled on one side. Since the resin is so much more brittle, I expect trying to cut the threads with the die will just break the bolt. It will be interesting to see it tried...
SLA orientation has been already tested ua-cam.com/video/E7XDMzGb5WI/v-deo.html Tough resin too (BLU) and tenacious test is in progress. ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing this fun competition video my friend! Really enjoy watching & really helps us to choose better material. Great work on every test result. Liked & subbed! Hope to see more of your work😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
@@MyTechFun Welcome & keep come your great work my friend. We try to leard how to make our own rc part. Please do come by to our channel too. We do video about rc cars😁👍🏼
Tests are resonably sound for typical uses, but materials are questionable. Another couple of parameters are required. But gives us some idea. Thank you for sharing.
i think the reason why pla is stronger than resin is because of the way the material was made. PLA is extruded in a mesh like pattern while resin is made whole. If we look at it as rope vs a single thread "WITH THE SAME THICKNESS" emphasis on same thickness, the rope would win because of the gaps and twining. the gaps and twining of the rope does a better job of dispersing force like a sponge, whereas a whole material doesn't. Another example is how folded iron is stronger than molded iron. this is due to the grain structure hold it together.
Pla is brittle, but it still has one of the highest tensile strengths of "non engineering" materials, I believe PC is the "PLA" of high temp stuff, Polycarbonate is suuper strong, you should try it if you can
Yes, (Carbon Fiber) Polycarbonate is my very favorite 'high temp' (engineering) material. Or it 'was'.. until I upgraded my printer to print real 'high temp' materials (300+C), like Ultem or PEEK! ;)
Ha tudsz időt szakìtani rà, az igen jò volna, èn elsősorban prototìpus fröccsöntőformakat nyomtatnèk, de a standard gyanta nem alkalmas rà, fdm technològia pedig vègkèpp
Thanks for those very interesting test results, I use mainly PLA and ABS but the later one is not reliable on an open printer, I had to enclose one of my printers to get somewhat better results on ABS but it is still not that great. Which is the best ABS printer with the lowest price tag?
There is also a second match FDM vs SLA. ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html Printer for ABS? Prusa, but it's not a budget one. Ender3V2 is budget, but I don't advise to use it a lot over 240C because teflon tube is in hotend. Maybe Ender3V2+full metal hotend upgrade (+enclosure off course)
As others have pointed out, water washable resin is actually pretty weak compared to standard resin and only really used for models. You can also get tough, engineering, and abs like resins which are much more durable.
Formlabs has a Form2 printer that I've printed from for over 2 years. I prefer and recommend anyone that wants to get into SLA printing to invest in this specific printer first. No it isn't their newest one (the Form3), and yes it is more expensive than other ones. But compared to something cheaper (and a pain in the butt IMHO) like the Anycubic Photon, *_it is a pleasure to work with,_* and I can literally print the exact same things the Form3 can - it's just a tad bit slower is all. I've only ever had 1 minor issue printing with it in 2 years and that was when I was printing PEEP Valves for University of Texas Dallas during lockdown in April/May 2020 (didn't affect my prints - I was just printing 24/7 and the machine needed a break after job 25 haha). *TL;DR* If you got yourself a Form2, you'll bee able to print with their commercial-grade resins (requires~92-99% IPA wash), like their biocompatible *_Surgical Guide_* resin and tough engineering resin - heck even their clear resin is strong as long as you print at 50-100µm!! *Honestly, I think you'd do this experiment justice if you decided to run this experiment again using a higher quality printer like the Form2 and the right kind of resin (especially their Surgical Guide!)
Doing this with standard resin was a complete waste. Take some Elegoo ABS like or some Siraya tech blu next time, please. Another underrepresented flaw is creeping, the deformation under pressure/stress over time. Maybe a video on this topic could be worth it.
I don't think this is waste. Testing standard PLA with standard SLA. I ordered these SLA bolts (since I don't have SLA 3D printer) and this is what most peoble would get if they would also order SLA objects (if they don'T request special materials).
@@MyTechFun One difference is that there really isn't a "Standard" resin. That said, there is the common (read inexpensive) resin that is very brittle. Folks mix various resins together to get the physical properties they want. There are resins called tough resins and flexible resins. SLA printing is more about printing high quality, high detail items - not so much for strength.
@@runklestiltskin_2407 And his point is that most people who haven't used SLA standard resin and who don't own SLA 3d printers DO NOT know how tought they are. Hence, the point of this video. It's not a waste.
@@MyTechFun It is a waste because when you want to know who wins in a fight between a gorilla and an orang-utan you don't choose an adolescent orang-utan and a gorilla baby, you choose the strongest orang-utan you can reasonably find vs the strongest gorilla you can reasonably find. So if you want to do FDM vs SLA, you go and you find a filament that can reasonably printed with common printers that provides a sensible combination of hardness and toughness and you find a resin that can be reasonably printed with common SLA printers and provides a sensible combination of hardness and toughness.
I have seen actual fibre core strand carbon, kevlar or fibreglass filament. I can't see how it would stop and start though without a cutter at head to allow breaks. Impressive tests! pla is tougher than thought. I just got me a Anycube X as treat for lockdown cabin fever. LOL!
We see lots of our users recommending our Blu and Tenacious resins. We are happy to supply if you are interested to test it out. I believe it would give PLA and PETG a serious run for their money
What resin? There isn't just one. There's FormLabs Tough 2000 and Tough 1500. There's Siraya Blu and Tenacious. Were the resin bolts cured at 60 degrees C?
It's in description: Elegoo water washable p. resin. These were budget materials. But there is a 2nd match, siraya vs PETG. ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html And third match is in progress (Tenacious vs ABS)
Im not sure how much it differance it would make but the SLA print have a other print direction. By that i mean FDM ist printed horizontal while the SLA is printed vertical. When you print FDM vertical it would only hold 1/2 of that what you showed. How much stronger SLA would be if it would be printed horizontal i dont know.
Very good engineering video. I think resin its better for models or pieces that doesn't need mechanical strength because you can print almost finished parts. FDM it's cheaper and much more faster to print and much stronger
Standard SLA resin is not meant for that kind of structural stability, though there are ways to improve the durability of these kinds of parts such as stronger resins, longer cure times and printing it at a 45 degree angle.
Yes, I agree. But this is test between "budget" resin and budged FDM material. This is what you get, if you order SLA printed object. But good news is that more materials are on the way for similar testing.. (like Siraya Blu for example)
Me acabo de terminar de ver varios de tus videos, me encantan las pruebas que hacer. Sigue asi!(I just finished watching several of your videos, I love the tests to do. Keep it up!)
Resin once cured is a lot more brittle than PLA. PLA on the other hand don't take static stress over time as well as resin does. It permanently deforms after a while where resiin will stay in shape.
abs like resin are pretty tough from what I understand I have never used it myself, but I believe that if there is no flex like in water-washable resin it becomes incredibly fragile, so one would assume like a good sword finding a mix between flexibility and toughness would be key for strength.
I see people saying you should have used "tough resin", if it's a strongest vs strongest, then you would need to use ABS vs tough resin. This test, as he says in the beginning, is the "most common" FDM vs resin, aka popular basic vs popular basic. I would like to see an ABS vs Tough resin test though. I've made some ABS items that are pretty much indestructible, but am just getting into SLA printing so personally, I can't say.
There are several videos with this topic, like ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/JpTSzpRQ_T4/v-deo.html (Siraya, PETG, ABS, mix..)
I've been enjoying your content and forgot to subscribe, I've rectified this now. Keep up the great work, you have provided a lot of valuable information.
would be nice to see tough resin tests not standard resin we know this is very brittle already bu tthank you all the same for the time and effort my good sir.
yes, I agree with many comments here there are many many types of resin. The resin that ships with your printer is usually "draft" resin and quite brittle. There are ABS-like resins and "tough" industrial resins that can survive explosive forces and such high temperatures.
Very interesting, thanks for that. I'd like to have seen the steel components tested as well for perspective. I'd never have considered it before, but 3D printing might be a suitable source for obscure thread patterns in non critical applications.
@@MyTechFun A (grade 5) 1/4" bolt has 2700 lb/f (Coarse thread) and 3100 lb/f (Fine thread) proof load. One just need to check the specs of those bolts, it is usualy specified. From The Engineering ToolBox site. Proof Load - is the maximum tensile force that can be applied to a bolt that will not result in plastic deformation.
PLA parts deform in the heat, don't leave them in a car trunk! so really, PLA is good for quick check parts, but can you really count on them for engineering applications? Regarding the resin, if you were using resin for an engineering application, you wouldn't use a non-engineering grade resin, but perhaps this is a great comparison with the most readily available materials used in a mechanically demanding environment, so for that situation, this video is great: FDM PLA is clearly much better than DLP Resin. Thank you!
First off ...wonderful job on the comparison test. The info you provided was I guess surprising to me. I typically print with abs. Reason is it holds up better to heat outdoor elements etc. pla in my mind is great for making things like toys and such, but is not great for applications outside comfortable environments. Am I working about that? I wonder if I’m working on an outdated opinion here. I would love to see some more comparisons test like you have done using other materials. Obviously the Resin is not the champ for Durability, but I also believe that PLA is not a good example of durability as well because it’s easily affected by our environment we live in. Please correct me I’m very curious on what you have done and what you know.
You did probably say it in the video but i am having some issues with the accent so i shall ask here. Was the resin and filament aprox in the same price and quality range? To make the test fair i mean :)
SLA has no shearing ability. That's why it split. I expected as much.... The second I saw the tests, I knew the answer. FDM great structural, SLA great detail. Even though you can use both, the obvious features don't change.
But there is a flaw. The SLA printed bolts was printed in upright position and PLA in laying position. SLA also has layers, just like filament printing. A real comparison would have been printing in same direction.
Could you maybe test the high end resin from formlabs with your sla printer? Formlabs says that their resin is strong enough like Pa6. You can also use the resin with elegoo or anycubic dlp printer because both printer are still working with 405nm light wave.
I'm curious about SLA resin bolts out of a proper strong resin and printed horizontally, the layers going through the whole bolt should change the result. Also, water wash resins seem to be the most brittle of the bunch. Anycubic Tough Resin Ultra may be a good resin to try. I now see this is an old video, time to go watch the other tests.
Great video! Just confirms everything I've always heard. Resin printing is only useful for miniatures and highly detailed models, but DON'T use it for any kind of functional/mechanical parts, that's FDM's area of expertise.
Water washable resin has the lowest strength out of all the resins, its weak because of the additives that makes it water washable. You need to try a more common one like the ones labeled ABS-like, or even better ones that are labeled Tough (ie Siraya Tech BLU). Every resin is different from each other. They are also very dependent on temperature and cure time and takes a bit more skill to print a part with proper strength. For most people SLA prints are just "get a good looking object" and that is the minimum requirement.
Why do people print fasteners that cost a DIME?! I love the video and I think the strength tests were very well done. Don't print fasteners, though, people. That's silly.
This is more like material test (and all other similar videos). But actually people are using 3D printed bolts. There are a lot of places where plastic bolts have advantage (don't scratch, in electricity, you need just to hold small load, but you don't have special bolt with exact pitch, lead, left handed etc). In one of my videos I asked viewers to write where do thes use 3D printed bolts, and there was a ton of replys.
Well I see there have been some comments already about the resin product, you were using a rigid resin developed for prototyping, the advantage of this resin is that it is cheap the disadvantage is that it has very limited mechanical properties. If you want to test resin materials you will need to get hold of something a lot more industrial, look at Henkel their Loctite 3D resins have a number of different properties from elastomeric to tough and rigid ... The results you will get will be vastly different. PS I personally do not like the idea of a water washable resin, there is a tendency for people to think that the uncured resins are not bio hazardous, the truth is that the dirty water after washing those resins is hazardous - and dirty water is far more dangerous to the environment than dirty solvent. Something to think about.
Resin prints have a similar layer structure, and probably should have been printed horizontal as well, its now as big a factor as it is for PLA, but for comparison it would be better to print in same orientation
Man i liked too much your way to deliver real engineering and practical usage of learning. I've also laught a lot at the end with the octagon winner! hahahaha Definitely a good channel to follow up! Best regards from brazil!
Interesting test ! On resin, you have different kind of resin ("ABS like" resin exist and have a better resistance) I'll going to see your orientation resistance test !! Thank you !
This is actually an incredibly professional and scientific approach, I'm very impressed. I did not expect such a high quality experiment.
Yep. It's really very professional to compare the hardness along the layers for sla and across the layers for fdm😂
I believe the most common SLA resins are just for show, not strength, though I do believe you can get resins that are stronger. Some commercial resins are hard like a really dense and smooth concrete. :) If you end up experimenting with stronger resins it would be cool to see PLA+ or other strong versions. I love your tests, keep up the great work!
@@RajinderYadav I use high strength resins on my personal Formlabs form 3 3d printer to get high-quality prototypes. I think you can use good resins without a commercial 3d printer to get very strong parts. I also use all kinds of commercial elastic resins for unique parts.
@@RajinderYadav I use an automated wash and cure system to make the process easier and faster. The price of Formlabs official resins is also quite absurd so I modified one of their empty cartridges with a small part from Protoart and now I can use that cartridge with any third-party material and refill it whenever I run out. I usually like to buy from ApplyLabWork whose materials are half the price of Formlabs resin.
You should try the dental resins the are made to stand up to chewing for years. They are also cured for 20 min at 66C.
Oh is this true cus I was thinking of getting a resin printer but I’ve been seeing how weak they are and I need them to a be abit strong should I still gets resin , input would be much appreciated!
The water washable resins are very brittle, especially compared to the stronger types. The only other type I've used is Siraya's ABS-like resin and it's much tougher, i'm considering trying it for functional parts.
There are tons of resin formulas, for conductivity, strength, flexibility and other material properties. I've also read many posts where people have mixed resins to a achieve a blend of material properties.
You have done a very nice job of comparing the two materials with quantitative analysis. I'm impressed. I love your hoist setup to test tensile strength. Then you did a very nice job of gathering all the information into the spreadsheet for quick comparison of the data. You put a lot of time and effort into making the setup for the tests. I make and post videos under another account (which is why you won't find any videos associated with this account) and nothing I do is nearly as good as what you've done here. Thank you for the time and effort to make and post this video. I am considering purchasing a 3D printer and this information was very helpful to me in trying to choose between FDM and resin printing.
You could try "tough resins" and it would be interesting to see the performance of enhanced PLAs like PLA 870.
someting like formlabs tough syriya blu/clear v2
And then compare the cost , $$...
@@mikhaelchernogorsky556 The tough resin won't work better for this - it'll likely be worse. It's tougher against impact at the expense of tensile strength and dimensional stability under load. Ironically, the standard resin has among the highest tensile strength.
@@christopherkemsley4758 so if I want to print some mount or joint that will carry a weight on it it is better to use strong PLA materials like nylon rather than tough resin?
@@christopherkemsley4758 Interesting. Theres a video of these withstanding 90 ft lbs on a torque wrench.
Very interesting test.I simply could not imagine PLA screws having this strength.
Nice video and great testing but as you also hinted to at the end there is a big problem with the comparability here. On the one side is PLA and while there are also many types here, that is a specific material. On the other side you just have a generic resin that is not intended to be used in physically demanding tasks. Of course there is a point here, that the cheapest material for FDM (pla) is much stronger than cheap resin but that is just the way it is. Resin printers exist in the first place because of the great quality and accuracy. If you want high performance in SLA you need to get specialized resin, just as you would get specialized filament for FDM if you wanted to get the best possible quality prints.
Yes, this is just test about regular PLA and Resin. I ordered these resin bolts, and of course, company created it using most popular (probably economic) material.
nice comment and video 👍
I use Siraya Tech resins and get great results with strength. I mix my own resins with combos of Tenacious and Elegoo, Sculpt, Build, and a few others. Strength can be obtained with SLA, it just takes some playing around. And orientation DOES matter, you still have layers. Great video though, thanks!
I have been a bit jealous of the nice details of the resin printers, but as most of my projects are functional and not only esthetic I’m happy I choose a FDM one. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Check details of 0.2mm nozzle in this video, very similar to SLA (the 50% benchy part in video starting from 19:39)
Thank you for doing these tests. I remember about a year ago your other video on PDM strength bolts/nuts really helped me too.
thanks, and there will be more, I am going deeper into different material testings..
I had to replace a kitchen sink screw few years ago with a printed one. The PLA one hold up the job for few weeks until boiling water was drained. Next one I printed in ABS and 3 years later it is still going strong, no leak no problem with boiling water being drained.
BTW I had to print this bolt nut combination as the sink was old and no spare parts were available.
Is it resin or fdm?
@@Thatguy-jh2ex fdm print
@@3dgussner958 do you prefer fdm or resin? And which printer would be stronger? For printing car interior parts...? And it has to be in high detail aswell
@@Thatguy-jh2ex I don't have a resin printer and can't say if there's any resin that withstand the heat in a car. Also these have often small build volumes, so depending on the object you want to print.
Abs and asa aren't easy to print but holding up the high temperatures.
The resin is still amply strong just so long as care is taken to use it in situations where it's weaknesses are not exposed and its strengths are taken advantage of. For example, I needed a new very large nut that is 66mm in diameter and 21mm thick - it is used in the thrust plane and not the rotational plane to limit the amount of turns a worm gear shaft that drives it can make (the nut hits stoppers either end of it when it travels along the worm gear shaft). What matters for this particular part is a smooth finish and resistance to cracking and delamination versus outright strength and in any case it is designed to be a sacrificial part - meaning it is supposed to deliberately wear so that the components it interfaces with do not. It works extremely well. The resin they used still has a shore D hardness of 85 and is 50 MPa so it is pretty robust.
Would be nice if you tested “tough resin”. There is also a optimal printing tempts for sla. I believe it to be 30c at least.
Resins are great for modeling but not for practical use like FDM printers. That was what I found in my research before purchasing my 3D printer. Thank you for this, as this helps many of us know the limitations of PLA prints without spending the time on the research. Keep up the great work/videos!
I got Siraya Blu resin for testing, it should be much stronger.. there will be round 2 for this video soon ;-)
That certainly defied my expectations; not having much experience with either, I assumed the resin would have been much stronger.
These were budget materials. There is a 2nd match (Siraya vs PETG) ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html
Also keep in mind that resin also has layer lines what weaken it so those should have been printed in same format as pla bolts however I still think resign is going to be weaker by far it’s just to brittle needs to be abs like resin or a tough resin.
how wonderful.. a great backyard test with real equations and instrumentation values... this makes choosing the plastic much more logical... thanks a lot...:)
I solved the elephants food on my resin printer (Anycubic) by lowering the exposure of the first layer. All resins are different so you'll need to figure this out by trial and error. And for the tight nut threads, I adjusted the tolerances on Chitubox by trial and error. My nuts and bolts fit perfectly straight out of the print and also fit their matching metal fasteners no problem. I just print them standing up with no supports too. Hope that helps anyone.
WOW - thanks. I like tests like this and it's great that you have a summary page.
I look forward to seeing the future tests you do. I subscribed to your channel.
I am surprised they have elephant foot. A service that prints things should know that you print these things off the build plate and use supports. They should have been printed at an angle too. You really need to retest with a better resin print. I hope you have time to do that. (Assuming you already haven't.)
Thank you, Sir! I was surprised by the results. Good job!
Thank you, and don't forget to check second and third round too ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html
Thanks for your tests! The info is really helpful to eyeball the plastic details strength.
this is the first video of yours that I have watched, and I want to say that I loved it. Thank you so much for the information - it was very useful. I will be subscribing to your channel
What I expected. I've used epoxy resin a lot and while it is awesome when combined with glass or carbon fibres, on its own it's very weak.
well epoxy and printer resin are kinda not the same thing. i was thinking of dipping my prints into epoxy for strength and that crystal clear protective layer but not sure if it helps
Great job of stress testing and backing up evidences with spreadsheets. Also the used of video evidence is helpful. Sounds like fdm augmented with other materials can exceed the current capabilities of resin. Now if resin or sla can be augmented that would provide additional capability that is not currently available. Thanks again.
There is a 2nd match too: ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html
Very interesting results. I would have never thought that resin was so brittle.
Not every resin. But this budget resin, yes. (there are other similar tests, with different results, mostly with Siraya resins)
Why SLA bolts have been printer in vertical position and PLA horizontal? Should be the same for tests :) But anyway thanks a lot for this :) Ah didn't watch to the end :) Let's see with prints the same position.
Should do the same, there are several fairly scientific tests out there that show little to no effect of print orientation. And PLA is a really really strong plasticy material if you don't require that it bends (i.e. tensile strength) which is what it mostly tested here while standard resins just can't deal with that because they shatter.
@@zapl80 No effect of print orientation? This video would seem to disagree: ua-cam.com/video/ZiQek0wei1g/v-deo.html
Vertical prints are much weaker since the print lines run perpendicular to the direction of force.
@@funx24X7 Oops I meant for resin prints only.
SLA prints are near anisotropic, the have the same strength in the Z axis
I expect printing a bolt horizontally on an SLA printer will be be quite difficult. Resin will tend to "pool" in the threads on the side nearest the build plate, leaving the threads filled on one side. Since the resin is so much more brittle, I expect trying to cut the threads with the die will just break the bolt. It will be interesting to see it tried...
Print orientation matters on SLA too, it would have never popped of the head if it was printed through the lenght
Came here to see if anyone mentioned this, and if someone mentioned tough resins. Tech community didn't disappoint.
SLA orientation has been already tested ua-cam.com/video/E7XDMzGb5WI/v-deo.html
Tough resin too (BLU) and tenacious test is in progress. ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing this fun competition video my friend! Really enjoy watching & really helps us to choose better material. Great work on every test result. Liked & subbed! Hope to see more of your work😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you. Here is another similar video: ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html
@@MyTechFun Welcome & keep come your great work my friend. We try to leard how to make our own rc part. Please do come by to our channel too. We do video about rc cars😁👍🏼
Tests are resonably sound for typical uses, but materials are questionable. Another couple of parameters are required. But gives us some idea. Thank you for sharing.
i think the reason why pla is stronger than resin is because of the way the material was made. PLA is extruded in a mesh like pattern while resin is made whole. If we look at it as rope vs a single thread "WITH THE SAME THICKNESS" emphasis on same thickness, the rope would win because of the gaps and twining. the gaps and twining of the rope does a better job of dispersing force like a sponge, whereas a whole material doesn't. Another example is how folded iron is stronger than molded iron. this is due to the grain structure hold it together.
Pla is brittle, but it still has one of the highest tensile strengths of "non engineering" materials, I believe PC is the "PLA" of high temp stuff, Polycarbonate is suuper strong, you should try it if you can
Yes, (Carbon Fiber) Polycarbonate is my very favorite 'high temp' (engineering) material.
Or it 'was'.. until I upgraded my printer to print real 'high temp' materials (300+C), like Ultem or PEEK! ;)
very nice testing, good engineering, this is how a real reviewing and testing should be done. respect!
Nagyon jó teszt volt, kezdem megbánni, hogy SLA nyomtatót vettem mérnöki felhasználásra...
Nemsokára lesz round 2, kaptam tech resin-t tesztelésre. Siyara Blu. És itt nem beszéltem a hőállóságról
Ha tudsz időt szakìtani rà, az igen jò volna, èn elsősorban prototìpus fröccsöntőformakat nyomtatnèk, de a standard gyanta nem alkalmas rà, fdm technològia pedig vègkèpp
Thank you for this... It gives me a clear idea when to use what material
Check my other two videos filament vs resin. Very interesting and different results there
Can you please print the bold in resin also 45° 90° version and test this. I think that the 90° version will be very strong.
I already tested SLA printing position, not significant difference. ua-cam.com/video/E7XDMzGb5WI/v-deo.html
Thanks for those very interesting test results, I use mainly PLA and ABS but the later one is not reliable on an open printer, I had to enclose one of my printers to get somewhat better results on ABS but it is still not that great.
Which is the best ABS printer with the lowest price tag?
There is also a second match FDM vs SLA. ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html Printer for ABS? Prusa, but it's not a budget one. Ender3V2 is budget, but I don't advise to use it a lot over 240C because teflon tube is in hotend. Maybe Ender3V2+full metal hotend upgrade (+enclosure off course)
I'm wondering if it is possible to print sealed structures from flexible resin?
I don't have experience with flexible resin so far.
Nice video. Was really wondering this myself. I like your new test setup, though i miss seeing you dangle from the PLA bolts.
Thanks, belive it or not, I am missing that dangle too, it was more fun to me :-)
As others have pointed out, water washable resin is actually pretty weak compared to standard resin and only really used for models. You can also get tough, engineering, and abs like resins which are much more durable.
There are parts 2 and 3 for this video with stronger resins (vs ABS, PETG). List of those videos: www.mytechfun.com/videos/fdm_vs_sla
love it. Ive seen many tests of all those special tough resins but its hard to find tests of just plain normal resin
Formlabs has a Form2 printer that I've printed from for over 2 years. I prefer and recommend anyone that wants to get into SLA printing to invest in this specific printer first. No it isn't their newest one (the Form3), and yes it is more expensive than other ones. But compared to something cheaper (and a pain in the butt IMHO) like the Anycubic Photon, *_it is a pleasure to work with,_* and I can literally print the exact same things the Form3 can - it's just a tad bit slower is all.
I've only ever had 1 minor issue printing with it in 2 years and that was when I was printing PEEP Valves for University of Texas Dallas during lockdown in April/May 2020 (didn't affect my prints - I was just printing 24/7 and the machine needed a break after job 25 haha).
*TL;DR*
If you got yourself a Form2, you'll bee able to print with their commercial-grade resins (requires~92-99% IPA wash), like their biocompatible *_Surgical Guide_* resin and tough engineering resin - heck even their clear resin is strong as long as you print at 50-100µm!! *Honestly, I think you'd do this experiment justice if you decided to run this experiment again using a higher quality printer like the Form2 and the right kind of resin (especially their Surgical Guide!)
I'm about to buy a formlab printer. Can I get in contact with you to ask you a few questions. I would really apreciate the input.
Doing this with standard resin was a complete waste. Take some Elegoo ABS like or some Siraya tech blu next time, please. Another underrepresented flaw is creeping, the deformation under pressure/stress over time. Maybe a video on this topic could be worth it.
I don't think this is waste. Testing standard PLA with standard SLA. I ordered these SLA bolts (since I don't have SLA 3D printer) and this is what most peoble would get if they would also order SLA objects (if they don'T request special materials).
@@MyTechFun One difference is that there really isn't a "Standard" resin. That said, there is the common (read inexpensive) resin that is very brittle. Folks mix various resins together to get the physical properties they want. There are resins called tough resins and flexible resins. SLA printing is more about printing high quality, high detail items - not so much for strength.
@@MyTechFun The point I was trying to make is, that the outcome was easily predictable. Anyone who used SLA standard resin knows it's not tough.
@@runklestiltskin_2407 And his point is that most people who haven't used SLA standard resin and who don't own SLA 3d printers DO NOT know how tought they are. Hence, the point of this video. It's not a waste.
@@MyTechFun It is a waste because when you want to know who wins in a fight between a gorilla and an orang-utan you don't choose an adolescent orang-utan and a gorilla baby, you choose the strongest orang-utan you can reasonably find vs the strongest gorilla you can reasonably find. So if you want to do FDM vs SLA, you go and you find a filament that can reasonably printed with common printers that provides a sensible combination of hardness and toughness and you find a resin that can be reasonably printed with common SLA printers and provides a sensible combination of hardness and toughness.
I have seen actual fibre core strand carbon, kevlar or fibreglass filament. I can't see how it would stop and start though without a cutter at head to allow breaks. Impressive tests! pla is tougher than thought. I just got me a Anycube X as treat for lockdown cabin fever. LOL!
We see lots of our users recommending our Blu and Tenacious resins. We are happy to supply if you are interested to test it out. I believe it would give PLA and PETG a serious run for their money
I got your email. I'll reply soon
What resin? There isn't just one. There's FormLabs Tough 2000 and Tough 1500. There's Siraya Blu and Tenacious. Were the resin bolts cured at 60 degrees C?
It's in description: Elegoo water washable p. resin. These were budget materials. But there is a 2nd match, siraya vs PETG. ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html And third match is in progress (Tenacious vs ABS)
@@MyTechFun Sorry I missed that. Great stuff.
Im not sure how much it differance it would make but the SLA print have a other print direction. By that i mean FDM ist printed horizontal while the SLA is printed vertical. When you print FDM vertical it would only hold 1/2 of that what you showed. How much stronger SLA would be if it would be printed horizontal i dont know.
I already tested that, for SLA there is no big difference in printing orientation (maybe 20% until with FDM the difference is 3-4x)
Very good engineering video. I think resin its better for models or pieces that doesn't need mechanical strength because you can print almost finished parts. FDM it's cheaper and much more faster to print and much stronger
Great video! It was exactly what I was looking for.
Standard SLA resin is not meant for that kind of structural stability, though there are ways to improve the durability of these kinds of parts such as stronger resins, longer cure times and printing it at a 45 degree angle.
Yes, I agree. But this is test between "budget" resin and budged FDM material. This is what you get, if you order SLA printed object. But good news is that more materials are on the way for similar testing.. (like Siraya Blu for example)
You can avoid the elephant foot by adding a chamfer to the model in the effected areas.
@Thu Nell Ⓥ the easiest way I've found is using a slightly undersized raft the same height as the total base layers.
Me acabo de terminar de ver varios de tus videos, me encantan las pruebas que hacer. Sigue asi!(I just finished watching several of your videos, I love the tests to do. Keep it up!)
nice consistent setup. Please print the resin screws and nuts horizontally next time so that the layers are stable like with PLA. thank you.
Resin once cured is a lot more brittle than PLA.
PLA on the other hand don't take static stress over time as well as resin does. It permanently deforms after a while where resiin will stay in shape.
There is a second match: ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html
abs like resin are pretty tough from what I understand I have never used it myself, but I believe that if there is no flex like in water-washable resin it becomes incredibly fragile, so one would assume like a good sword finding a mix between flexibility and toughness would be key for strength.
I already tested Siraya blu vs PETG bolts. And also Tenacious test is in progress.
@@MyTechFun cool I'll check it out
I see people saying you should have used "tough resin", if it's a strongest vs strongest, then you would need to use ABS vs tough resin. This test, as he says in the beginning, is the "most common" FDM vs resin, aka popular basic vs popular basic. I would like to see an ABS vs Tough resin test though. I've made some ABS items that are pretty much indestructible, but am just getting into SLA printing so personally, I can't say.
There are several videos with this topic, like ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/JpTSzpRQ_T4/v-deo.html (Siraya, PETG, ABS, mix..)
Nice tests and not surprising. What I got from this video is that if I need a bolt with good tensile and shear strength, I should use a metal one. 😂😝
I've been enjoying your content and forgot to subscribe, I've rectified this now.
Keep up the great work, you have provided a lot of valuable information.
would be nice to see tough resin tests not standard resin we know this is very brittle already bu tthank you all the same for the time and effort my good sir.
Other resin will be tested too. Siraya Blu for example.
yes, I agree with many comments here there are many many types of resin. The resin that ships with your printer is usually "draft" resin and quite brittle. There are ABS-like resins and "tough" industrial resins that can survive explosive forces and such high temperatures.
I got Siraya Blu resin for testing, I will repeat the test with this tech resin
nice job. Perfect comparation. This was what i was loking for.
Thx. There are two more similar tests with stronger resin vs petg and vs abs
Very interesting, thanks for that.
I'd like to have seen the steel components tested as well for perspective.
I'd never have considered it before, but 3D printing might be a suitable source for obscure thread patterns in non critical applications.
Good idea, now I am curious too. Only I have to make my testing equipment stronger than those metallic bolts..
@@MyTechFun A (grade 5) 1/4" bolt has 2700 lb/f (Coarse thread) and 3100 lb/f (Fine thread) proof load. One just need to check the specs of those bolts, it is usualy specified. From The Engineering ToolBox site.
Proof Load - is the maximum tensile force that can be applied to a bolt that will not result in plastic deformation.
PLA parts deform in the heat, don't leave them in a car trunk! so really, PLA is good for quick check parts, but can you really count on them for engineering applications? Regarding the resin, if you were using resin for an engineering application, you wouldn't use a non-engineering grade resin, but perhaps this is a great comparison with the most readily available materials used in a mechanically demanding environment, so for that situation, this video is great: FDM PLA is clearly much better than DLP Resin. Thank you!
That's why I tested other materials too (Siraya vs PETG, ABS..)
It would be interesting to see if they undergo compression test, and metal cutting to go against shear, bending, compression, and friction.
First off ...wonderful job on the comparison test. The info you provided was I guess surprising to me.
I typically print with abs. Reason is it holds up better to heat outdoor elements etc. pla in my mind is great for making things like toys and such, but is not great for applications outside comfortable environments. Am I working about that? I wonder if I’m working on an outdated opinion here.
I would love to see some more comparisons test like you have done using other materials.
Obviously the Resin is not the champ for Durability, but I also believe that PLA is not a good example of durability as well because it’s easily affected by our environment we live in.
Please correct me I’m very curious on what you have done and what you know.
Thx. There is a new experiment in this topics: Siraya Blu vs PETG: ua-cam.com/video/7r16-UDo2t4/v-deo.html
You did probably say it in the video but i am having some issues with the accent so i shall ask here. Was the resin and filament aprox in the same price and quality range? To make the test fair i mean :)
Both are budget materials in their range, but filament is much cheaper compared to resin.
SLA has no shearing ability. That's why it split. I expected as much.... The second I saw the tests, I knew the answer. FDM great structural, SLA great detail. Even though you can use both, the obvious features don't change.
But there is a flaw. The SLA printed bolts was printed in upright position and PLA in laying position. SLA also has layers, just like filament printing. A real comparison would have been printing in same direction.
I already tested the effect of printing orientation with SLA (with exactly this resin), the difference was 20% (for fdm this difference is 4-5x)
PLA nut and bolt should perform better than pairing them with metal, because it should increase friction and potentially bond the two parts.
I'm surprised that the resin wasn't stronger. It would be interesting, to try other filaments, such as FDM, DLP, and ABS.
i had no idea small pla bolts would be so tuff i was surprised.
Could you maybe test the high end resin from formlabs with your sla printer? Formlabs says that their resin is strong enough like Pa6. You can also use the resin with elegoo or anycubic dlp printer because both printer are still working with 405nm light wave.
Exactly what I was looking for!! Thank you very much!
Soon I will compare a stronger resin too (Siraya Blu).
Interesting comparison. well done
I'm curious about SLA resin bolts out of a proper strong resin and printed horizontally, the layers going through the whole bolt should change the result.
Also, water wash resins seem to be the most brittle of the bunch.
Anycubic Tough Resin Ultra may be a good resin to try.
I now see this is an old video, time to go watch the other tests.
Great video! Just confirms everything I've always heard. Resin printing is only useful for miniatures and highly detailed models, but DON'T use it for any kind of functional/mechanical parts, that's FDM's area of expertise.
Maybe. I just got Siraya Blu resin, which should be for mechanical parts. Test arriving soon..
Wow!!!! And I was thinking to go Resin printer, but not for what I make as they need to be tough. thankyou very much
Take a look of the second part, Siraya Blu vs PETG. Also Tenacious resin test is in progress..
Water washable resin has the lowest strength out of all the resins, its weak because of the additives that makes it water washable.
You need to try a more common one like the ones labeled ABS-like, or even better ones that are labeled Tough (ie Siraya Tech BLU). Every resin is different from each other.
They are also very dependent on temperature and cure time and takes a bit more skill to print a part with proper strength.
For most people SLA prints are just "get a good looking object" and that is the minimum requirement.
Siraya company contacted me, they will send Blu for testing
You should try with Elegoo ABS like resin, that is a fair competition. If you want I can send you a few for you to test.
Marco, that would be fantastic. Send me an email to discuss. You can find my email on About page of MyTechFun UA-cam channel.
Why do people print fasteners that cost a DIME?!
I love the video and I think the strength tests were very well done.
Don't print fasteners, though, people. That's silly.
This is more like material test (and all other similar videos). But actually people are using 3D printed bolts. There are a lot of places where plastic bolts have advantage (don't scratch, in electricity, you need just to hold small load, but you don't have special bolt with exact pitch, lead, left handed etc). In one of my videos I asked viewers to write where do thes use 3D printed bolts, and there was a ton of replys.
Thank you for the detailed tests!
Well I see there have been some comments already about the resin product, you were using a rigid resin developed for prototyping, the advantage of this resin is that it is cheap the disadvantage is that it has very limited mechanical properties. If you want to test resin materials you will need to get hold of something a lot more industrial, look at Henkel their Loctite 3D resins have a number of different properties from elastomeric to tough and rigid ... The results you will get will be vastly different.
PS I personally do not like the idea of a water washable resin, there is a tendency for people to think that the uncured resins are not bio hazardous, the truth is that the dirty water after washing those resins is hazardous - and dirty water is far more dangerous to the environment than dirty solvent. Something to think about.
Well, i think that all of that is bad for enviroment...but thats the way it is
Resin prints have a similar layer structure, and probably should have been printed horizontal as well, its now as big a factor as it is for PLA, but for comparison it would be better to print in same orientation
I already tested this in other video. The difference is very minimal.
Excellent video ! two thumbs up ! I have one request , can you include the weight of the fasteners and show the relative strength to weight ratios .
Resin M6x20 is 0.992 g and PLA bolt is 1.015 g
@@MyTechFun Thank you
Man i liked too much your way to deliver real engineering and practical usage of learning.
I've also laught a lot at the end with the
octagon winner! hahahaha
Definitely a good channel to follow up!
Best regards from brazil!
where can we found those tools you're using in min 2:33 and 3:38? Thanks for your great videos
Thx. Search for thread die and tap tool on amazon, ebay etc.. I bought mine in local store. Very common tools in metal industry and not expensive.
@@MyTechFun Thanks!
Love your videos, very in depth
thank you. now i know what i need.
Did they pint this all long vertically? I assume horizontal print would be much stronger
Interesting test !
On resin, you have different kind of resin ("ABS like" resin exist and have a better resistance)
I'll going to see your orientation resistance test !!
Thank you !
I already tested Siraya Blu and Tenacious test is in progress.
i think the orientation of how you print it will also affect the strength. i thing horizontal printing is stronger than vertical printing..
Yes, I already tested SLA printing orientation, less than 20% difference (with this material). For fdm this difference is 4x or more.
Thank you for the tests !
when using the die tool you need to put it in the tool holder and use the middle screw to spread the die open to proper size
I agree. But this is only plastic, with almost finished threads. I needed tools only for cleaning the thread.
@@MyTechFun The fact that its plastic makes it worse as it wasn't just cleaned up, you made a pretty decent cut.
Nice experiment for practical printing. Some tough resin and ASA printed parts would be good for comparison.
Thanks for suggestion. When I will have my own SLA 3D printer, I will test a lot of different materials.
Perfect test, thank you
Wouldn’t it make sense to also print the resin bolts sideways? I feel the test is a bit inaccurate due to this
I already tested printing orientation for SLA printing, difference is not big. (There is a video too)
Hello, It was interesting to test a good mecanical resin, not a fragile one. There is lot of ABS like or nylon like resine. They are very more solid.
I got Siraya Blu for testing, that comparison will be uploaded on 2 weeks approx.
Thank you very much for this tests.
You are welcome! And there are several videos on this topic: www.mytechfun.com/videos/fdm_vs_sla
Thank you. These videos are usefull for me.
This is amazing! Thanks for posting this!
I'd be interested to see the results for Siraya Tech "Tough" and "ABS-Like" resins.
Oh! I saw your video on Siraya Blu vs PETG - so you already did it! Cool! Thanks!!!
excellent video, thanks for sharing those tests.
Love your Hungarian accent. Instantly signals intelligence 😁
Köszönöm :-)
Or sounds like a mail order bride.
Sounds like a bit Russian to me