The bi-metal item inside the motor is a 30A circuit breaker. I had one on a power seat motor that failed in a similar manner to the one in your window lift motor. I added a permanent connection inside the motor and then used an external 30A circuit breaker obtained from an automotive parts store and was able to find a spot outside the motor to fasten it to. This maintains the protedtion for the wiring in the car and allows future easy replacement in case the replacement circuit breaker ever fails open again. The Chrysler service manual has a precaution about the spring loaded arm on the regulator arm assembly. They advise clamping the assembly such that the arm cannot move using C-clamps or similar tool. Good job!
A job to test the patience of a saint. And you passed! As always, loved the camera and editing work and appreciate the time it took to set up all the shots for our viewing pleasure.
@@SortedGeorgeGarage Most definitely! It's a 440 trim line, with a 383HP engine, sold in Los Angeles. The salesman that ordered the car, really knew what would sell down there. Unfortunately for me, the window motors are mostly healthy... it's the plastic sprocket that's failed. One day I'll disassemble the drive and see if a JB weld repair can do the trick.
Same here if I can. The front one I filmed is so much stronger than the rears I did off camera, and they were aftermarket replacements! Can't beat factory RLT! Replacements seem to be lesser quality 😳🙄
My advice..... don't bother with the aftermarket ones. The rears were aftermarket and had already slowed down alot. After doing the same regrease job as you saw here they were still slow. After doing the connection in the video the original one's were so much stronger! Aftermarket market are poor quality compared to originals 🙄. Glad the video helped though. SGG 😉👍🏻
@@SortedGeorgeGarage thanks I'll definitely take that into consideration. I'll probably attempt to repair the front 1 after I replace it with the aftermarket 1 I already ordered and I can use it for the rear if I fix it
Well you sure are right. The aftermarket ones are very poor quality. Though it is working. I'm currently in the process of diagnosing the oem motor I took off. So far I've discovered it has much more corrosion than the 1 in your video and I discovered 1 of the tiny springs is broken that applies pressure to those 2 copper blocks that press against the center shaft. I'll continue working on it tomorrow. Thanks again for the amazing video.
Well done mate! Fiddly f*^ker! That was a bugger that contact came off the bimetallic strip, it’s there to protect the motor windings when the window hits its stops and the switch is held on, unless you pulverised found a way to re-stick that contact, you’re a bit stuffed there and had little or no choice but to bypass it, I was wondering after you drilled that tiny hole in the strip weather a drop of glue through the hole to hold the contact in place might’ve worked but chances are, not for long. Only other thought I had was to put a tiny flat head rivet and give it a squeeze with long nose pliers then remove excess with a needle file, something like that... I initially thought the motor and/or the mechanism had seized, which is quite common. But hey, bottom line is it works! This is one of many reasons we love these old cars mate, unlike modern plastic crap, you can take these small components apart and service and repair them one way or another, unlike modern sealed plastic dog shit crap you get these days, oh how I despise modern cars, just a pile of expensive crap plastic, designed by computer, built by a robot and more often than not, driven by a brain dead moron...😂👍
Cheers fella. I love a bit of make-do-and-mend, and you can certainly do it to the old stuff that's for sure. This part is 57+ years old and is now still going strong! Got to love the old stuff 😉👍🏻
Very interesting. I changed a window motor in my Honda, but it was MUCH easier because I just bought a new motor. You can't do that so easily in a 1966 Chrysler....
I should add that the power seat motor I repaired had two windings inside to provide for reversing the rotation of the motor. A power seat uses more power than a window lift motor, so a 30A breaker would be inappropriate for a window lift application. More likely a 15A or so would be more appropriate for the window lift motor.
The bi-metal item inside the motor is a 30A circuit breaker. I had one on a power seat motor that failed in a similar manner to the one in your window lift motor. I added a permanent connection inside the motor and then used an external 30A circuit breaker obtained from an automotive parts store and was able to find a spot outside the motor to fasten it to. This maintains the protedtion for the wiring in the car and allows future easy replacement in case the replacement circuit breaker ever fails open again. The Chrysler service manual has a precaution about the spring loaded arm on the regulator arm assembly. They advise clamping the assembly such that the arm cannot move using C-clamps or similar tool. Good job!
Happy days mate. Glad the clip worked 👍
Worked a treat Nick, thankyou for your help bud 🤘🏻😎👍🏻
A job to test the patience of a saint. And you passed! As always, loved the camera and editing work and appreciate the time it took to set up all the shots for our viewing pleasure.
Thankyou Robert, glad you enjoyed the video. As always I hope it helps people out with their projects 👍🏻
Outstanding Geo!!! I like how that little devil torqued over when you reversed polarity. Mopar strong! : )
🤣🤣🤣🤣 Yeah I noticed that when I played it back and had to chuckle 😃👍🏻 Still Mopar strong! 🤘🏻😎
Good safety tip as well Boss! Thank you!@@SortedGeorgeGarage
Well i rebuilt 2 now and neither worked until i bypassed that temperature switch. Would have never been possible if i hadn't seen this video 👍
Thankyou for the kind comment Sir, I'm glad it helped you out 😃👍🏻
Nice work Julian! You are a very patient man. Good entertainment value as always. Cheers!
Thanks Guy for the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video 👍🏻😃
Just catching up on this very cool video.
My 1965 Coronet Convertable has power windows - which is uncommon option. I hope this helps others too.
Thanks RLT 😃👍🏻 That sounds like an expensive option for '65
@@SortedGeorgeGarage Most definitely! It's a 440 trim line, with a 383HP engine, sold in Los Angeles. The salesman that ordered the car, really knew what would sell down there.
Unfortunately for me, the window motors are mostly healthy... it's the plastic sprocket that's failed. One day I'll disassemble the drive and see if a JB weld repair can do the trick.
I have heard '85 Fifth Ave window motors work, but don't know how true that is. If so then maybe the sprockets will fit? 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for the heads up. I'll look into it. Good news is that there are retrofit kits available, but I like the idea of keeping things stock.
Same here if I can. The front one I filmed is so much stronger than the rears I did off camera, and they were aftermarket replacements! Can't beat factory RLT! Replacements seem to be lesser quality 😳🙄
Wow that was very impressive! I think I'll just replace it with aftermarket but at least now I know not to throw out the old 1!
My advice..... don't bother with the aftermarket ones. The rears were aftermarket and had already slowed down alot. After doing the same regrease job as you saw here they were still slow. After doing the connection in the video the original one's were so much stronger! Aftermarket market are poor quality compared to originals 🙄. Glad the video helped though. SGG 😉👍🏻
@@SortedGeorgeGarage thanks I'll definitely take that into consideration. I'll probably attempt to repair the front 1 after I replace it with the aftermarket 1 I already ordered and I can use it for the rear if I fix it
Well you sure are right. The aftermarket ones are very poor quality. Though it is working. I'm currently in the process of diagnosing the oem motor I took off. So far I've discovered it has much more corrosion than the 1 in your video and I discovered 1 of the tiny springs is broken that applies pressure to those 2 copper blocks that press against the center shaft. I'll continue working on it tomorrow. Thanks again for the amazing video.
Good job, George.
Cheers buddy 👍🏻
Thanks for the lesson learned alot😂
Hope it helped 👍🏻
Well done mate! Fiddly f*^ker! That was a bugger that contact came off the bimetallic strip, it’s there to protect the motor windings when the window hits its stops and the switch is held on, unless you pulverised found a way to re-stick that contact, you’re a bit stuffed there and had little or no choice but to bypass it, I was wondering after you drilled that tiny hole in the strip weather a drop of glue through the hole to hold the contact in place might’ve worked but chances are, not for long. Only other thought I had was to put a tiny flat head rivet and give it a squeeze with long nose pliers then remove excess with a needle file, something like that... I initially thought the motor and/or the mechanism had seized, which is quite common. But hey, bottom line is it works! This is one of many reasons we love these old cars mate, unlike modern plastic crap, you can take these small components apart and service and repair them one way or another, unlike modern sealed plastic dog shit crap you get these days, oh how I despise modern cars, just a pile of expensive crap plastic, designed by computer, built by a robot and more often than not, driven by a brain dead moron...😂👍
Cheers fella. I love a bit of make-do-and-mend, and you can certainly do it to the old stuff that's for sure. This part is 57+ years old and is now still going strong! Got to love the old stuff 😉👍🏻
A fiddley job well done dude. 🤠
Very interesting. I changed a window motor in my Honda, but it was MUCH easier because I just bought a new motor. You can't do that so easily in a 1966 Chrysler....
I bet trying to take the Honda motor apart would have been a nightmare 😳
@@SortedGeorgeGarage - you're probably right about that!
I should add that the power seat motor I repaired had two windings inside to provide for reversing the rotation of the motor. A power seat uses more power than a window lift motor, so a 30A breaker would be inappropriate for a window lift application. More likely a 15A or so would be more appropriate for the window lift motor.
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