My "home" scale is still the common 28-32mm for multiple games, but i keep being tempted to go smaller, down to 15mm which has an enormous availability of figures for all settings and purposes, an army can fit into a cookie can *with vehicles*, and a normal size kitchen table is big enough to play, and wow, is the price difference huge! Still for some reason more expensive than your choice or the 1/72 scale boxes you showcased, but i do believe it's possible to do more or less what you say, an army plus terrain for *MUCH* less than just the box of GW figures, and likely with more minis. I really should do it at some point and play some Five Parsecs on it. And if i ever get my hands on a resin printer (or if a compliant buddy does :P), i'll end up covered in tiny minis!
Money talks the loudest, so it's an easy choice for me, but I know how habits work. With scale creep, GW minis will probably be 54mm in five years anyway lol But you're right; if I ever 3D print, I'll have the biggest collection of 20mm 40K armies you ever saw
Have you ever tried to reset their pose with heat? Either boiling water or like maybe a t-light candle? Mostly I'm thinking/asking about reposeing the legs.
If you're making an army in the 56mm size, then how much larger of a war table would you need? Also, after you finish the skeleton army, I'd love to see you show how to make other war game armies for pennies, after all, not everyone wants only one army type. Humans, Elves, Dwarves, Orcs, Centaurs, tentacled horrors, alien bugs, whatever - I'd love to see how you approach it.
The last episode will be making terrain and table, so stay tuned! Since these guys are based on 32-33mm bases, 4'x4' to 4'x8' tables still work just fine, but buildings and such need to be scaled up.
Ok... This is kinda cool.... I'm a big fan of onepagerules and I find Mantic army boxes at about a price point in comfortable with.... Then it's all about kitbashing to make any of the fancy stuff... Though their £20 Giant is a really nice model...
@@DungeonMiser if you do, and you remember, you can reply here and I'd really appreciate it. I've been going through a batch of old superglue gel and use a dropper to add baking soda to accelerate and create a stronger bond. Works very well at the base, but does admitedly add some extra bulk for more flush connections like giving a little compound necklace when attaching a head to a neck. After drying (I give about 12 hours to be confident in the bond), a light tapping and brushing with toothbrush removes excess baking soda (which can be reused, similar to flocking method). Hope it goes well for you and thank you.
So, I looked into it. Those cheap rubbery dollar store skeletons cost around 5$ for 20 minis. Oddly enough, they didn't change value at all since this video was first published. Logical conclusion: skeletons are inflation proof!
These are so awesome I used some dollar general skeletons and mummies for a flesh golem and a skull slug base i made
oh I like this alot!
Very cool stuff! If this is the scale you're working at, the defunct Toys R Us "True Legends: Mythical Warriors" bucket is super useful.
Yes it is!
I love how you just said: "f*ck it, I'm not restricting myself with that GW starter box!" from part two onward.
Very inspiring.
My "home" scale is still the common 28-32mm for multiple games, but i keep being tempted to go smaller, down to 15mm which has an enormous availability of figures for all settings and purposes, an army can fit into a cookie can *with vehicles*, and a normal size kitchen table is big enough to play, and wow, is the price difference huge! Still for some reason more expensive than your choice or the 1/72 scale boxes you showcased, but i do believe it's possible to do more or less what you say, an army plus terrain for *MUCH* less than just the box of GW figures, and likely with more minis. I really should do it at some point and play some Five Parsecs on it. And if i ever get my hands on a resin printer (or if a compliant buddy does :P), i'll end up covered in tiny minis!
Money talks the loudest, so it's an easy choice for me, but I know how habits work. With scale creep, GW minis will probably be 54mm in five years anyway lol
But you're right; if I ever 3D print, I'll have the biggest collection of 20mm 40K armies you ever saw
This is great!
I think I'm going to like this series :) Nice work so far!
Have you ever tried to reset their pose with heat? Either boiling water or like maybe a t-light candle?
Mostly I'm thinking/asking about reposeing the legs.
I just wanted to add enough variety so they wouldn't be clones, but you can modify them as much as you like. They are super-adaptable so go crazy.
I think heat guns (similar to a focused hair dryer) work too. I'm aiming to get one soon and test.
If you're making an army in the 56mm size, then how much larger of a war table would you need? Also, after you finish the skeleton army, I'd love to see you show how to make other war game armies for pennies, after all, not everyone wants only one army type. Humans, Elves, Dwarves, Orcs, Centaurs, tentacled horrors, alien bugs, whatever - I'd love to see how you approach it.
The last episode will be making terrain and table, so stay tuned! Since these guys are based on 32-33mm bases, 4'x4' to 4'x8' tables still work just fine, but buildings and such need to be scaled up.
Down the line, look for my Lizardman army to compliment the Skeletons!
Ok... This is kinda cool.... I'm a big fan of onepagerules and I find Mantic army boxes at about a price point in comfortable with.... Then it's all about kitbashing to make any of the fancy stuff... Though their £20 Giant is a really nice model...
Can't wait for more!
It be cool if you did an episode on where you get your supplies
Yes, it's coming up
Do you plan making a bone golem out of dollar store skeletons?
Critical Crafting and the Crafting Brothers already have fine tutorials for bone golems. I'm going to be making units that need more attention 🤓
@@DungeonMiser I think I've watched those before, but thanks.
Awesome!
Great work, man. Solid paint job too
I really appreciate your work. Thanks for sharing this fantastic tutorial
Nice work. I'd be very interested to know if you can accelerate curing of the e6000 using baking soda.
I've never tried, it might be a worthy experiment
@@DungeonMiser if you do, and you remember, you can reply here and I'd really appreciate it. I've been going through a batch of old superglue gel and use a dropper to add baking soda to accelerate and create a stronger bond. Works very well at the base, but does admitedly add some extra bulk for more flush connections like giving a little compound necklace when attaching a head to a neck. After drying (I give about 12 hours to be confident in the bond), a light tapping and brushing with toothbrush removes excess baking soda (which can be reused, similar to flocking method). Hope it goes well for you and thank you.
Really liked the series. Any plans for doing a video on how to play warengine?
Thanks for the great video!
Glad you liked it!
Super cool! I'd love for you to maybe do some sort of uniques down the line, like a dino for those lizard men you mentioned
Any chance you might do this but go small? I play 15-18mm for this reason, and would love to see what you might do with that
I'm working on a 1/72 scale mini episode, stay tuned
"Less than $20." The bag of skeletons alone is $25. 🤔
The bag of skeletons is $5
@@DungeonMiser the one on the link says $24.
@@KallenMalefic that's for 5 bags
So, I looked into it.
Those cheap rubbery dollar store skeletons cost around 5$ for 20 minis.
Oddly enough, they didn't change value at all since this video was first published.
Logical conclusion: skeletons are inflation proof!