I'm fixing my friends resin printer after he accidentally ripped the FPC connector out. He was trying to replace a part and didn't realize how fragile it was. I've done a little bit of soldering before but never on parts so small so thank you for explaining everything so well.
While soldering on a new DC jack for my laptop, I somehow pulled the FPC connector from a daughter board that has a USB port and the audio jacks on it... It is not crucial, but I'd like to have them. This video is exactly what I was looking for, so thank you! My FPC has many more pins, and it is hard to tell scale in your video, but I feel like mine are so much smaller. It does not hurt to try since it is just a daughter board and I have found a replacement one on eBay for $35... I will give it a shot! Thanks again for uploading.
Thanks for taking the time to go over the process in such detail. I am thinking about adding an FPC connector to a Lenovo Chromebook that I have put Linux on.. THe Chromebook has the contacts for a 20 pin FPC on the main board and a spot for a hard drive. Not sure if I'll do it but I really appreciate your video!
Now do a tutorial on how to solder and desolder this plastic parts without melting them with hot air. There's always cases where you cannot apply heat underneath the PCB.
Not really possible with many fpc connectors sorry. In many situations it may seem impossible but there is probably a way to work with hot air, requires covering some components with metal tape or otherwise
To desolder, you can use a copper wire, bent in a U-shape so it touches all the pins plus the anchor points, and then just use a soldering iron+flux+solder to get it off
Needed this to repair the accidental damage to my ABXY FPC on my 3ds motherboard because I had to buy a donor motherboard for this setup and it doesn't hurt as much as buying a brand new console (without the previous records) even with the tools I needed to repair my video game. I'll thank you later and let you know how this goes. Just waiting on my flux paste syringe.
I want to thank you so much, I have to replace a T-Con board on my TV and it has ribbons solder onto tiny pins and I was like how in the world am I going to even do this manually. Your instruction were simply amazing. Some question, what temperatur is the heat gun set to and how close do you hold it to the board?
1) I don't like the idea to blow from underneath at full strength, because you might make much much more damage by blowing off components than you are fixing. 2) If you need to reheat the board approx 10 times or so, you might delaminate the PCB, ruining the device and the spot you want the connector to be soldered to, as well as the bottom layer and whatever traces are in between. 3) you did not show what the board looks like on the bottom, but it's probably brownish.
I'm fixing my friends resin printer after he accidentally ripped the FPC connector out. He was trying to replace a part and didn't realize how fragile it was. I've done a little bit of soldering before but never on parts so small so thank you for explaining everything so well.
I had to solder one of these on for a little project I was working on and your guide did the trick. Much obliged!
While soldering on a new DC jack for my laptop, I somehow pulled the FPC connector from a daughter board that has a USB port and the audio jacks on it... It is not crucial, but I'd like to have them. This video is exactly what I was looking for, so thank you!
My FPC has many more pins, and it is hard to tell scale in your video, but I feel like mine are so much smaller. It does not hurt to try since it is just a daughter board and I have found a replacement one on eBay for $35...
I will give it a shot! Thanks again for uploading.
Thanks for taking time to explain it step by step!
Hot air full speed 375 celsius heated from under the board. Wave your wand back and forth
Thanks for taking the time to go over the process in such detail. I am thinking about adding an FPC connector to a Lenovo Chromebook that I have put Linux on.. THe Chromebook has the contacts for a 20 pin FPC on the main board and a spot for a hard drive. Not sure if I'll do it but I really appreciate your video!
great video mitch; never had to do micro soldering and it seems you need some special eqpt/tools to do it; including a microscope!
Now do a tutorial on how to solder and desolder this plastic parts without melting them with hot air. There's always cases where you cannot apply heat underneath the PCB.
Not really possible with many fpc connectors sorry. In many situations it may seem impossible but there is probably a way to work with hot air, requires covering some components with metal tape or otherwise
To desolder, you can use a copper wire, bent in a U-shape so it touches all the pins plus the anchor points, and then just use a soldering iron+flux+solder to get it off
Nice video. Hope your right about underneath components. What im doing there is quite a few.
What if there are parts on the other side of the board, in or near the area you need to heat?
If it's not plastic, it's fine
I also have this query... a micro capacitor on the underside is in the way and likely to be heat affected/heated off
@@MitchCairns what if there is another fpc connector on the other side?
Needed this to repair the accidental damage to my ABXY FPC on my 3ds motherboard because I had to buy a donor motherboard for this setup and it doesn't hurt as much as buying a brand new console (without the previous records) even with the tools I needed to repair my video game. I'll thank you later and let you know how this goes. Just waiting on my flux paste syringe.
Did you get it repaired?
I want to thank you so much, I have to replace a T-Con board on my TV and it has ribbons solder onto tiny pins and I was like how in the world am I going to even do this manually. Your instruction were simply amazing. Some question, what temperatur is the heat gun set to and how close do you hold it to the board?
He said 375 c
1) I don't like the idea to blow from underneath at full strength, because you might make much much more damage by blowing off components than you are fixing.
2) If you need to reheat the board approx 10 times or so, you might delaminate the PCB, ruining the device and the spot you want the connector to be soldered to, as well as the bottom layer and whatever traces are in between.
3) you did not show what the board looks like on the bottom, but it's probably brownish.
Hi, what flux are you using?
interesting
😮...🤯