hey, i'm 16 and super new to all this! i don’t know much yet, but i’m crazy excited about building my own kart one day. can you help me figure out how to get started on a low budget? i’ve been losing sleep just thinking about it! 🙏
@@lonniepruitt5487 on this Idnk if I'm jealous or stonished. My life turned into building the day I had a model with balls, to get the things right before making. (I mean I learned some CAD and have a 3D printer which I use extensively for scale models) I KNOW they will get fuct up anyways and it looks like it would be same or faster to freestyle. I don't even pretend to be on the right side of this. I just couldn't work freestyle, it would be a targetless (finishless, therefore) adventure. Couldn't even call it a project, for me.
After using the remaining of a can for the test cut, I went to the machining shop we have here and the guy gave me for 14 bucks a liter of emulsionable oil which is 25 liters of solution. Despite this, my drill cup will probably last other 20 notches or so if I regrind the teeth with the discsaw. How you so brave to dry cut those damn pipes? Thanks for the content tho, it's a lot of inspiration for who's doing the same! :) #teamcrosskart
Bought a new-to-me daily and got a good deal (03 accord v6-6spd coupe) with low miles (68k but body damage), so I got wheels again, but now I have no money for tools to try building along with ya. Just gonna have to live vicariously for a little while longer and hope yours comes out as good as I'd make mine! Those bends are looking a lot better than what I saw on the first buggy's compilation video, too. But... It seems you either forgot or chose not to go with the SLA setup for proper camber gain. It's not technically too late to change them, but you would have to change the mounts to compensate for the shortened arms and still have the hub side pivot in the correct location. If you don't wanna dig for my original comment, the upper arms are supposed to be between 50-75% of the length of the lowers. The lowers should be mostly flat or angle slightly up toward the chassis at ride height, and the uppers should be angled down toward the chassis at ride height. Look up "The Best Chassis and Suspensions explained" by "FatmanFabrications" particularly the part 2 video as it shows directly what a shorter upper arm that's angled down toward the frame can do to improve grip. Also, you want to offset your upper arm a bit towards the rear to give you some caster angle. 6 to 10 degrees is acceptable. For kingpin inclination, that's how far the top ball joint leans in (it's like camber for you balljoint) and the best road cars keep that at or below 1.5x the caster angle in order for it not to "fight" the caster angle on the inside tire in a turn. More kingpin might make the leading tire on a drift stand upright better, but there's a problem; It doesn't look like your kingpin angle is adjustable separately from your static camber, so you may have to live with "zero" TBH.
@@Drunken_Hamster thanks ima look up that video! I am building this for someone else so I do have to get their okay before I change things if that makes since, thanks for the info though.
@@Drunken_Hamster not on this one mainly because the person I’m building this for was wanting it to look like a barracuda buggy, sorry to let you down, I would definitely like to do it in the future.
@@john98889 The rear is problematic because there's no steering axis that can have caster to add to the camber gain like the front. With the rear, you have to balance having enough camber gain in roll to not lose grip while not having to much camber gain in squat to lose forward bite, or otherwise, to have enough anti-squat to counter it while (for an offroad vehicle) not having so much that the suspension can't actuate well over bumps while you're on the throttle. This is part of why I suggested the De-Dion axle. It's much simpler as it'll always keep the tires at their static settings regardless of roll or squat, so you don't have to balance having enough grip in either mode (forward bite or side bite) while also worrying about having too much or too little anti-squat. Just set the anti-squat as needed to balance bump compliance under power vs bonus traction and the tires will be "alright" regardless of squat or roll. In the future I'd like to try to develop a method of adding camber gain to a de-dion setup that ONLY gains during roll and keeps the tires straight up and down under squat. I theorize that this could be the ultimate suspension set, but I have no idea how to effectively create the linkage or geometry to accomplish this, especially without any sort of sliding link, which you wouldn't want (at least not on something like a street driven or semi-daily use vehicle) due to tolerance and wear issues.
@@billymartens7732 I’m using 1 1/8 x .120 wall DOM tubing for the frame and I’ve used 40 ft in that video id expect to use about 120ft give or take in total.
@@billymartens7732 I’m happy to help, if you do want to talk more than message me on instagram @gages.garage but I do not have any plans I just build them as I go.
Hey man what kinda tubing are you running. I’ve got the same bender and working on a cbr 954rr build I’m gonna be putting together but everything I try kinks almost immediately. I know with this bender kinking isn’t avoidable but any tips on type of tubing and wall thickness
@@billymartens7732 there can be benefits to both but i topically prefer chain. And definitely use ATV parts, I used hubs and control arm for the last buggy I built.
@@rjtell6869 check out my patreon, links in the description, I don’t have the full buggy plans done yet but I do have the plans for the driveline knuckles already.
You are so persistent and meticulous, admirable.
@@WeldingMask I really appreciate that brother! Thank you.
Subscribed! Good work! Your grandfather would be proud of your elbow grease.
@@StreetMachine18 i appreciate that!
Lookn great as usual 👌
hey, i'm 16 and super new to all this! i don’t know much yet, but i’m crazy excited about building my own kart one day. can you help me figure out how to get started on a low budget? i’ve been losing sleep just thinking about it! 🙏
Thank you bro👍
Genial bro ... saludos 👍
I'm so jealous. My "figure it out as I go" never works out like this.
@@dandeve that’s how I do everything so I’m just use to it lol😭
I know
@@lonniepruitt5487 on this Idnk if I'm jealous or stonished. My life turned into building the day I had a model with balls, to get the things right before making. (I mean I learned some CAD and have a 3D printer which I use extensively for scale models)
I KNOW they will get fuct up anyways and it looks like it would be same or faster to freestyle. I don't even pretend to be on the right side of this. I just couldn't work freestyle, it would be a targetless (finishless, therefore) adventure. Couldn't even call it a project, for me.
After using the remaining of a can for the test cut, I went to the machining shop we have here and the guy gave me for 14 bucks a liter of emulsionable oil which is 25 liters of solution.
Despite this, my drill cup will probably last other 20 notches or so if I regrind the teeth with the discsaw.
How you so brave to dry cut those damn pipes?
Thanks for the content tho, it's a lot of inspiration for who's doing the same! :) #teamcrosskart
As 5:32 quando tô usinado peça com aço comum eu uso óleo de motor usando ajuda bastante também e já economiza em outro produto
Bought a new-to-me daily and got a good deal (03 accord v6-6spd coupe) with low miles (68k but body damage), so I got wheels again, but now I have no money for tools to try building along with ya. Just gonna have to live vicariously for a little while longer and hope yours comes out as good as I'd make mine! Those bends are looking a lot better than what I saw on the first buggy's compilation video, too. But... It seems you either forgot or chose not to go with the SLA setup for proper camber gain.
It's not technically too late to change them, but you would have to change the mounts to compensate for the shortened arms and still have the hub side pivot in the correct location. If you don't wanna dig for my original comment, the upper arms are supposed to be between 50-75% of the length of the lowers. The lowers should be mostly flat or angle slightly up toward the chassis at ride height, and the uppers should be angled down toward the chassis at ride height.
Look up "The Best Chassis and Suspensions explained" by "FatmanFabrications" particularly the part 2 video as it shows directly what a shorter upper arm that's angled down toward the frame can do to improve grip. Also, you want to offset your upper arm a bit towards the rear to give you some caster angle. 6 to 10 degrees is acceptable. For kingpin inclination, that's how far the top ball joint leans in (it's like camber for you balljoint) and the best road cars keep that at or below 1.5x the caster angle in order for it not to "fight" the caster angle on the inside tire in a turn. More kingpin might make the leading tire on a drift stand upright better, but there's a problem; It doesn't look like your kingpin angle is adjustable separately from your static camber, so you may have to live with "zero" TBH.
@@Drunken_Hamster thanks ima look up that video! I am building this for someone else so I do have to get their okay before I change things if that makes since, thanks for the info though.
@@Gages.garage1 Oh wait, does that mean you aren't doing the front-mid engine and de-dion axle/satchell link setup for this one?
@@Drunken_Hamster not on this one mainly because the person I’m building this for was wanting it to look like a barracuda buggy, sorry to let you down, I would definitely like to do it in the future.
Does the video you mention also show the proper control arm angles and length ratios for the rear? If not could you please explain!
@@john98889 The rear is problematic because there's no steering axis that can have caster to add to the camber gain like the front. With the rear, you have to balance having enough camber gain in roll to not lose grip while not having to much camber gain in squat to lose forward bite, or otherwise, to have enough anti-squat to counter it while (for an offroad vehicle) not having so much that the suspension can't actuate well over bumps while you're on the throttle.
This is part of why I suggested the De-Dion axle. It's much simpler as it'll always keep the tires at their static settings regardless of roll or squat, so you don't have to balance having enough grip in either mode (forward bite or side bite) while also worrying about having too much or too little anti-squat. Just set the anti-squat as needed to balance bump compliance under power vs bonus traction and the tires will be "alright" regardless of squat or roll.
In the future I'd like to try to develop a method of adding camber gain to a de-dion setup that ONLY gains during roll and keeps the tires straight up and down under squat. I theorize that this could be the ultimate suspension set, but I have no idea how to effectively create the linkage or geometry to accomplish this, especially without any sort of sliding link, which you wouldn't want (at least not on something like a street driven or semi-daily use vehicle) due to tolerance and wear issues.
just a heads up if you do each bend in 1 inch increments it doesn’t leave the tube with a flat spot
@@joshchambers3487 every time I try that it just slides back into the original bend.
Nice build just wondering what size pipe did u use for the build do u know about how many lengths u will use
@@billymartens7732 I’m using 1 1/8 x .120 wall DOM tubing for the frame and I’ve used 40 ft in that video id expect to use about 120ft give or take in total.
@@Gages.garage1 my european eyeball is 1/8 inch off then :D
What’s the link for the front hubs!!!
Do u have any plans or how long and wide u building it sorry ill stop asking lol
@@billymartens7732 I’m happy to help, if you do want to talk more than message me on instagram @gages.garage but I do not have any plans I just build them as I go.
Hy bro I like vidio yutube you I pro indonesia
Hey man what kinda tubing are you running. I’ve got the same bender and working on a cbr 954rr build I’m gonna be putting together but everything I try kinks almost immediately. I know with this bender kinking isn’t avoidable but any tips on type of tubing and wall thickness
@@johnnywilliams8432 check this video out it should help a good bit! ua-cam.com/video/BuKixuPhvts/v-deo.htmlsi=CzIxZdzmBfcM8qdw
Ok I’d like to build one to thought about use some ATv parts not sure wood u go belt drive or chain drive
@@billymartens7732 there can be benefits to both but i topically prefer chain. And definitely use ATV parts, I used hubs and control arm for the last buggy I built.
I'm a welder and fabricator. You need to use tap magic when your drilling holes. It's 10× better then wd40
@@ryguy905 I just got sum actual cutting oil, thank you for the advice though.
It’s called bump steer
Bro bagaimana cara mengukur ke akuratan roda depan dan roda belakang salam dari Indonesia Sumatra barat mentawai
Do u sell blue prints???
@@rjtell6869 check out my patreon, links in the description, I don’t have the full buggy plans done yet but I do have the plans for the driveline knuckles already.
@ ???
@@rjtell6869 patreon.com/Gagesgarage?Link&
first
ua-cam.com/users/shortsT3I0hIHeCfw?si=0fF-VVyYvtdw3IJU For your reference