Let's see those suggestions, the best will win an exclusive early EGG! (Details in the video :)) Buy the brushes used in this video: store.artis-opus.com/
Why? Oils are a great tool. Not saying you can't get similar results with regular acrylics, but dismissing oils or enamels entirely just to keep yourself in the Citadel bubble is pretty silly.
Try a thinned black and try doing layers of thin* black (still new myself but I suppose a glaze in consistency) with each layers getting larger to give a darker point where you started like it was burnt the most closest to the muzzle
Looks like you're the most liked comment for this video, Dylan! If you could email support@artis-opus.com with a screenshot we'll get you some goodies sent! Great suggestion, too, always carries such impact, and good timing with the recent releases :)
The bit at 8:15 about prepping the brush and resetting if the paint isn't leaving well is super helpful! I hardly ever hear anyone explaining this and I've only recently started getting better at that aspect myself.
So as a Tau player, I like to maybe paint a secondary colour for one of the panels. Seeing something on how you’d approach that what with all the dry brushing while keeping uniformity of feel would be super interesting
This is a great tutorial - it’s really useful how you talk about the behaviour of the brush, not stuff you hear elsewhere. My suggestion is recess shading and highlighting or shading in general for organic forms. When doing armour it’s much clearer how to shade because the lines are sharp, but when doing tyranid muscles / body - for example - when I get to the recess shading and highlighting it’s not always obvious where to do it, how to make it smoothly fit into the model and what is the actual “edge” to highlight. I always ending up having to do a load of blending again, relying on contrast paints or just going all in on drybrushing… leaving things patchy, and taking loads of time to smooth out. It’s quite different to detailing armour where it’s much more obvious where everything should be.
I like doing the panel lining with a contrast paint and holding it the model so the lighter recess is facing up, this way gravity pulls more pigment away from the light giving it a natural gradient. Ive also held models upside down when doing washes so gravity pulls the paint.
Suggestions for your next video? My dude, I can't even absorb all the good information in these tutorials before you drop the next one on us. Amazing rescue work on that piece!
With the new paint handles it would be cool to see them scaled against something generic (a cork, bic lighter) in the website photography just to get an idea of the sizes. Seen a few too many handles out there available with nothing to reference scale.
Thanks so much , due to all your free and wonderful content and needing brushes I am going to by a set of your brushes to support you as well as reading many good reviews of the product .
I'd like to see how you'd approach shading or adding more visual interest onto larger flat panels, I can understand the shading behind curved pieces like this tau leg, but any shading on my flat panels looks odd, and with no shading or detailing it looks too boring
this is perfect, ive got the s-series box set of 000, 00, 0, 1 artis opus brushes, and tau sept is the colour scheme im going for, will be trying this for sure, id love to see further tau vehicles and weapons, especially ion cannon glow, plasma glow or fusion glow
Really cool trick with making acrylic washes act like oils! Have you considered doing the same trick using an ink or contrast paint instead since the extra pigmentation means you wouldn’t need to go back in twice? Just in the interest of speeding up our sped up cheating even more 😉
I would like to see a list of paints used in the comments or in the description, as well as the brushes. I have seen this brown color scheme in a few other places and I love it and I would like to know the process for it. Id like to see this same color scheme in higher contrast as if the panels were higher on the model and exposed to more light.
As a tutorial, what about a similar vein but aimed at organic materials, like skin or scales, scars of face maybe. Awesome vid, really really helpful. Thank you.
simple video simialr to this: Creating colorful shadows and lights by using drybrush as the base (alternative to using airbrush for the shadows lights) and then normally painting over it
I'd be interested to see if the same tricks work on marine panels, given they're smaller than the T'au ones? I use a panel liner from tamiya as I do scale models as well. But will try this - the water trick to exaggerate that capillary action could be a game changer. In terms of follow ups on the same theme of hacks, smooth blending and maybe a comparison between layering, dry brush and stipple via time lapse?
What about basecoating, establishing highlights/shadows with stippling? Maybe then define and reinforce highlights/shadows with glazing? I feel like fleshing out volumes is as complex as we choose to make it and was curious have a friendly reference for merging the styles to "blend" the outcome without it feeling so daunting
A question. How well do you think you could paint, let's say a miniature that isn't a space and has less smooth surfaces by only using drybrushing and stippling. For base coats, highlights the whole shebang. I'd love to see that.
these vehicle/ panel videos have been really great (got my gunpla brain working..), but i have a few questions ( might actually be one related question..) At the beginning there is already some paint laid down that has developed a gradient , how was that done and then how have the light to dark areas been decided - the dread arm you put dark colours at the top, but this the dark colour is at the bottom.
Hey buddy, it's always after playing with the piece (after being primed chaos black) under a light. In this case I picked a main area/2, and made up the rest :)
Until any water that ran outside the recess has evaporated off. If you did a tidy job with the water, you can add the wash seconds after. If some ran outside the recess, mop the overflow with a dry or damp brush. You can add the wash once the areas you tidied up are dry (look at the sheen in a raking light), so like 10-45 seconds later.
ok ok i see them scars .. they look very nice.... iv seen a few artists do fine details with like a series s brush but the bristles look like they dont move at all is that a technique thing or are the hairs almost glued in place ??.. also your drybrush is amazing
Moar Dakka!!! Pew pew pew, WAAAGH! Or you can do stippling and water down your shade of choice and then dry brush the base cover color like the Warboss here did! xD
Question for you: Was the whole panel painted with a basecoat of Sons of Horus Green and then stippled up to the more traditional Tau colors? Or was the basecoat XV-88 and then stippled in either direction (light up and dark down)?
I went from dark (black prime like always) - SOH G + Rhinox, and into traditional. But I underpainted the highlight areas to make them brighter, you could stipple this with series D, and and once you're happy with placements literally just paint white within them (highlighting your highlights with opaque paint). Hope that helps! Ask any questions in a new comment please, replies are easily lost
How about horses they are nice and organic yet getting smooth tones on the flesh drives me to distraction. A tutorial along the same lines as this would be great.
I am a returning Battletech Alpha-Striker' Player! I am returning because I am sick of seeing these Kis an Newbies' playing the Games My Friends and I wished! we'd been able to play 30 years ago! hahah Now,...I want to make some good Mechs, and vehicles, and my Paint-Hand is not as Strong as my Pimp-Hand! hahaha Back in the Day, I coulda gotten by with a Base-coat, some basic dry-brushing, an some details, fewer decals' ! NOT Now!!!! I want My drybrushing to look like yours!: like it was dry-brushed! Show me the way my man! How can I paint 4-12 mechs in just an evening and make them Presentable on the Table?
Awesome vid. thank you. I've had a KX-139 primed and sitting on my desk for months now. I've wanted to paint in Tau Sept. was just wondering before you started panel lining and dry brushing all you did was stipple XV-88 on it??
Let's see those suggestions, the best will win an exclusive early EGG! (Details in the video :))
Buy the brushes used in this video: store.artis-opus.com/
As soon as he said “No oils!” I was reminded why Byron is the best painting teacher on UA-cam!
Very kind words my man, we hope the video made good on the claims!
Why? Oils are a great tool. Not saying you can't get similar results with regular acrylics, but dismissing oils or enamels entirely just to keep yourself in the Citadel bubble is pretty silly.
@0:03 I’d love to see a video of how you laid down the base coats in the first place.
What aspect of them buddy? stippling as normal, then some patchy white glazing :)
I'd love a tutorial on quick and effective muzzle burn effects. Something to add a little interest to my meltas and flamers!
Try a thinned black and try doing layers of thin* black (still new myself but I suppose a glaze in consistency) with each layers getting larger to give a darker point where you started like it was burnt the most closest to the muzzle
Glaze blue fading to purple and then straw/sepia.
Looks like you're the most liked comment for this video, Dylan! If you could email support@artis-opus.com with a screenshot we'll get you some goodies sent!
Great suggestion, too, always carries such impact, and good timing with the recent releases :)
The bit at 8:15 about prepping the brush and resetting if the paint isn't leaving well is super helpful! I hardly ever hear anyone explaining this and I've only recently started getting better at that aspect myself.
So as a Tau player, I like to maybe paint a secondary colour for one of the panels. Seeing something on how you’d approach that what with all the dry brushing while keeping uniformity of feel would be super interesting
You could try a translucent paint over the finished surface as long as that paint is ‘darker’ than the layer beneath.
This is a great tutorial - it’s really useful how you talk about the behaviour of the brush, not stuff you hear elsewhere.
My suggestion is recess shading and highlighting or shading in general for organic forms. When doing armour it’s much clearer how to shade because the lines are sharp, but when doing tyranid muscles / body - for example - when I get to the recess shading and highlighting it’s not always obvious where to do it, how to make it smoothly fit into the model and what is the actual “edge” to highlight. I always ending up having to do a load of blending again, relying on contrast paints or just going all in on drybrushing… leaving things patchy, and taking loads of time to smooth out. It’s quite different to detailing armour where it’s much more obvious where everything should be.
Damn it Byron, here I was thinking I had learned enough from all of your videos, and here you are reeling me back in with that buttery smooth blend.
I will always be here with buttery smooth blends to tempt you :). If that stops working there's TURQUOISE smooth blends
Probably the best and most practical painting tutorial video I've seen!
Thank you so much! Give it a go, you might surprise yourself :)
I just started working on some Tau battlesuits. These techniques look like just what I needed!
I like doing the panel lining with a contrast paint and holding it the model so the lighter recess is facing up, this way gravity pulls more pigment away from the light giving it a natural gradient. Ive also held models upside down when doing washes so gravity pulls the paint.
Suggestions for your next video? My dude, I can't even absorb all the good information in these tutorials before you drop the next one on us. Amazing rescue work on that piece!
With the new paint handles it would be cool to see them scaled against something generic (a cork, bic lighter) in the website photography just to get an idea of the sizes. Seen a few too many handles out there available with nothing to reference scale.
Banana.
Love this, will do. You don't have a duck, goose, and hen egg to hand though? 🐔😅
James Taro would be pleased :D
Thanks so much , due to all your free and wonderful content and needing brushes I am going to by a set of your brushes to support you as well as reading many good reviews of the product .
I’d love to see a step by step on flesh please 🙏🏻
Great video Byron
My nemesis! :)
@@ArtisOpusmine too
And I really want to win an egg 😂
Glazing and glaze blending would make for a great topic imo.
I'd like to see how you'd approach shading or adding more visual interest onto larger flat panels, I can understand the shading behind curved pieces like this tau leg, but any shading on my flat panels looks odd, and with no shading or detailing it looks too boring
Great Vid! If you use glaze medium instead of water. Then 50/50 contrast or was and water. You get a great capillary action.
An updated drybrush NMM video (maybe on a space marine or something else with good volume and clear shapes) would be great!
"Fixy dab" "blending dab". Every day is a school day.
Makes it look sooooo simple😊
That's a fine finish of the Tau Battlesuit armour.
The egg handle is a useful tool.
Whoops longged out beforw saying goodbye. Love the result on this and would like to see the same steps on something organic. Great job 👍
Mhhm. Great idea - big troll?
@@ArtisOpus Big troll!
Thankz Warboss, instructional and practical as always!
😅
I hope the holder is reasonably priced. I’d buy a few if they were. Fingers crossed
this is perfect, ive got the s-series box set of 000, 00, 0, 1 artis opus brushes, and tau sept is the colour scheme im going for, will be trying this for sure, id love to see further tau vehicles and weapons, especially ion cannon glow, plasma glow or fusion glow
Really cool trick with making acrylic washes act like oils! Have you considered doing the same trick using an ink or contrast paint instead since the extra pigmentation means you wouldn’t need to go back in twice? Just in the interest of speeding up our sped up cheating even more 😉
ARTIS OPUS EGGS WHEN!?
Textured eggs... for grip AND testing drybrush.
Nice painting ☺☺
Thank you! Give it a go :)
I would like to see a list of paints used in the comments or in the description, as well as the brushes. I have seen this brown color scheme in a few other places and I love it and I would like to know the process for it. Id like to see this same color scheme in higher contrast as if the panels were higher on the model and exposed to more light.
As a tutorial, what about a similar vein but aimed at organic materials, like skin or scales, scars of face maybe. Awesome vid, really really helpful. Thank you.
simple video simialr to this: Creating colorful shadows and lights by using drybrush as the base (alternative to using airbrush for the shadows lights) and then normally painting over it
I'd be interested to see if the same tricks work on marine panels, given they're smaller than the T'au ones? I use a panel liner from tamiya as I do scale models as well. But will try this - the water trick to exaggerate that capillary action could be a game changer.
In terms of follow ups on the same theme of hacks, smooth blending and maybe a comparison between layering, dry brush and stipple via time lapse?
Amazing thank you !
Any time!
Would love to see your process for hair or faces in this style.
Smashing 👍at only 2mins for that pin wash tip!
does it work with oils too? 🤔
What about basecoating, establishing highlights/shadows with stippling? Maybe then define and reinforce highlights/shadows with glazing? I feel like fleshing out volumes is as complex as we choose to make it and was curious have a friendly reference for merging the styles to "blend" the outcome without it feeling so daunting
Painting shields with this technique would be most helpful.
I'd really like to see a painting tutorial for Ork armor and vehicles!!
People feeling festive and orky?
@ArtisOpus absolutely!!
I even have some Ork kits in mind that I would really like to get for Christmas (mainly a Battlewagon and some Mega-Nobz)
What about small arms? good looking bolters etc. in not overly complicated steps :) great looking thigh btw! The panel lining works wonders.
A classic, and it's Christmas time, so why not?! Detailing in general might be a good one... 'How to quickly paint weapons' ?
A quick and easy video on hair.
Surely that holder is eggonomic?
like to see some dust effects with dry brushing
Nothing ties minis to bases like this, good call.
I would love to see if it’s possible to use drybrushing/stippling for large areas of skin
great stuff
A question. How well do you think you could paint, let's say a miniature that isn't a space and has less smooth surfaces by only using drybrushing and stippling. For base coats, highlights the whole shebang. I'd love to see that.
Impressive
Your scratch effects look great! Mine always end up too thick 😞
Good brush, right colour, test on thumb, hold breath, less is more! Check out our snow tiger one for some great tips on the brush set up
we gotta get this man laid...
You'll have to drag me out the basement first!! 🐉🐉🐉
I'd love a tutorial that covers OSL
these vehicle/ panel videos have been really great (got my gunpla brain working..), but i have a few questions ( might actually be one related question..) At the beginning there is already some paint laid down that has developed a gradient , how was that done and then how have the light to dark areas been decided - the dread arm you put dark colours at the top, but this the dark colour is at the bottom.
Hey buddy, it's always after playing with the piece (after being primed chaos black) under a light. In this case I picked a main area/2, and made up the rest :)
Painting vehicle cockpit canopies.
This would work perfect for Gundam models.
Thank you Byron. When you put the water in the recess, how long to wait before applying the wash? right away? Your thoughts are welcomed.
Until any water that ran outside the recess has evaporated off. If you did a tidy job with the water, you can add the wash seconds after. If some ran outside the recess, mop the overflow with a dry or damp brush. You can add the wash once the areas you tidied up are dry (look at the sheen in a raking light), so like 10-45 seconds later.
@@pbkobold Thank you
ok ok i see them scars .. they look very nice.... iv seen a few artists do fine details with like a series s brush but the bristles look like they dont move at all is that a technique thing or are the hairs almost glued in place ??.. also your drybrush is amazing
How about ork skin or a ork vehicle
Moar Dakka!!! Pew pew pew, WAAAGH! Or you can do stippling and water down your shade of choice and then dry brush the base cover color like the Warboss here did! xD
This is long overdue, Ork skin 3 ways perhaps?
Warboss wasn't far off! :)
yes please it would be great to see how you tackle this
@@ArtisOpus AYE!
Bullet holes or dents in large panels
Question for you: Was the whole panel painted with a basecoat of Sons of Horus Green and then stippled up to the more traditional Tau colors? Or was the basecoat XV-88 and then stippled in either direction (light up and dark down)?
I went from dark (black prime like always) - SOH G + Rhinox, and into traditional. But I underpainted the highlight areas to make them brighter, you could stipple this with series D, and and once you're happy with placements literally just paint white within them (highlighting your highlights with opaque paint).
Hope that helps!
Ask any questions in a new comment please, replies are easily lost
Hi, what did u use to stick the plate to the holder? I use paterfix but it leaves nasty parts like gum
Can nmm be achieved with stippling?
Wonderful !!! btw could you please tell me what miniature you are using? TY!
It’s the Tau Riptide!
Thanks!
How about horses they are nice and organic yet getting smooth tones on the flesh drives me to distraction. A tutorial along the same lines as this would be great.
Spong? 😂
Bob? :)
I am a returning Battletech Alpha-Striker' Player! I am returning because I am sick of seeing these Kis an Newbies' playing the Games My Friends and I wished! we'd been able to play 30 years ago! hahah Now,...I want to make some good Mechs, and vehicles, and my Paint-Hand is not as Strong as my Pimp-Hand! hahaha Back in the Day, I coulda gotten by with a Base-coat, some basic dry-brushing, an some details, fewer decals' ! NOT Now!!!! I want My drybrushing to look like yours!: like it was dry-brushed! Show me the way my man! How can I paint 4-12 mechs in just an evening and make them Presentable on the Table?
Freehand video
Guys, a decent compressor qnd airbrush combo is less than $130. Or take 4x the time and be super limited in expanding your skills.
Awesome vid. thank you. I've had a KX-139 primed and sitting on my desk for months now. I've wanted to paint in Tau Sept. was just wondering before you started panel lining and dry brushing all you did was stipple XV-88 on it??
Great video as always Byron cheers! Do you have any recommendations for a good silver to replace the game air silver RIP 🪦 ?
🪦🪦🪦I will report back on this. I hoarded myself several :|