Hi Saukki I You put an 12V-relay at the brakelight-contact and at least at an Bafang centermotor, it can switch off the motor instantly and its soon feels quite natural to stop the motor this way. Works fine at my Strada velomobile. Happy driving 😎
One bit of advice for you, if your machine is set up like mine and has a brake sensor in the brake levers, if you want the motor to cut out instantly, instead of after a delay, is to tap the brake lever, not enough to engage the brakes, but just enough to cut out the motor. Learned that one the hard way after a couple of incidents. One thing to keep in mind if you do this, though, is that there will be a delay before the motor kicks in again that you won't have if you didn't touch the brakes, as the controller will be clearing the brake sensors.
So Interesting. A winter and offroad optimized e-velomobile seems possible, and you pointed out what it would need. The market will be much too small, though 😁 But it would be such an interesting piece of tech! High ground clearance, 4WD and 4WD high-powered electric assist, ASR, same lane width back and front, battery insulation, thin shell insulation and draft protection inside, adjustable ventholes, rollover guard, quick-attach snow chains … anything else?
Great to "be back" on your roads. 🙂 I never use bike lines/roads if there is snow on them. If there is snow on the bike path I just ride on the road and slow down the traffic. Car drivers can complain as much as they want, it is not the cyclist's fault if there is snow on cycle paths. But I also have very strong light on the back for these situations so that the cars can see me very well and avoid accidents.
Yes. This has been my experience this winter in Minnesota. I think our winter is maybe similar to yours this year. A lot of snow and very cold. Sometimes I can use my velomobile with e-assist, but sometimes it is just better to use my car, even though I would much rather use my velomobile.
You surely know those single-suction-cup-lifters for small furniture. Maybe you need one instead of a shovel. When confronting a high snow-bank, you can fix it at the velomobile´s front-end, lift solely the front-end, and drag it over the snow-bank... I think that´s less work and more lightweight than a shovel... You can still deliberately step the snow-bank a bit flatter with your shoes, while going over it, for the sake of other commuters, that are to come...
I'm originally from Alaveteli, and i love that you are brave enough to drive around those parts haha. I shouldn't complain about living in tampere where bike paths are better maintained.
Great video! Thumbs up. Some time ago I saw some videos of a german guy mounting a Bafang engine with two 900 Wh Batteries to his bike. Using two batteries has two advantages: Higher range and increased lifetime of the battery as you spread the power to two batteries instead of one. The Batteries are quit heavy but with e drive it doesn’t matter I guess. But one Batterie costs 700 - 800€, so quite expensive.
puh... 700-800€ when you buy your cells by yourself - or excample at nkon - you get very good, high-power cells of very good quality and then you can build a 900Wh Battery for about 300 Euro easily.. put a 50 Euro BMS on the battery for safety just have to spend one afternoon for doing all the soldering
About the display... If you get a small piece of polycarbonate/lexan plastic, cut it to the size of the screen. And then take window tint plastic and put it on to make a filter. You can put multiple layers. It can be stuck to the screen, taken on/off when needed. Good channel. Thanks.
Yeah, winter cycling is fun. I slipped off an icy path today, destroying a luggage bag clip, my jacket and my rear derailer (derailleur?). Will take the car tomorrow. Although I hate it.
Insulating the battery is worth doing, it should prolong its life. Also taking the battery with you when your vehicle is left in a cold conditions. In a perfect world battery should be charged to 80% and used to 30%. Leaving an additional charger in a workplace seems to be a good idea. Probably you can glue some kind of a dark film to make a screen darker. Another way of spending less time in road is changing your house. Or changing your job :D Okay, bye! :D
Hey saukki. Since I use the wipers from german velomobilforum on my e Quatrevelo driving in bad conditions (snow, fog, rain) in combination with pinlock30 is really great. I guess you should try this combination. I bought my bafang system with optimised configuration from german dealer. Are you familiar with optimised assist profiles for velomobiles? Maybe this is more healthy for your batery too. I've got the display between my feets centered and i really like this position. KR Markus
You can change the display to another Bafang system, too. There are ones with better information, and simple ones with only SOC, speed and distance. But be carefull: There are bafang and kuteng compatible systems. You can't use kuteng or KT when using a bafang controller. Bafang hub motor with KT-Controller and KT-Display is possible. But on the mid-drive bafang, the controller is integrated, I think.
I live and ride in the Cascade, and sometimes the Grand Teton mountains. What I have done is put two batteries wired in parallel. Which gives me twice the depth of charge, at the same Voltage. Which is 48VX40Ah. Although I don't need to regulate the top end speed, like you do, as there is no way I'm going faster then 15 mph up 13 miles of 8% grade, and coming down, it can't keep up anyway. Considering your commute, that is what I would do, just put two batteries in parallel for the Winter, and pull one in Summer.
imo , the best electric assist system is a HSD drive at the pedals with pedal assist on torque, and a 14 speed Rohloff in the rear wheel. And with a belt transmission that is far more reliable and maintenance free instead of a chain one.
Are the laws regarding street usage in winter the same as in Germany? (If the snow is too much cyclists are permitted to use the road in the name of safety, not that it snows much in Germany nowadays). I live in Costa Rica now, and I would like to see you do a speed test in some hilly terrain. I want to know if it is viable for me to use a Velomobile with e-assist reasonably in my area. Thanks for the awesome content and enjoy the snow!
When we have snow here (which only rarely happens) I use a Wolf & Wolf AT1-E, and the electric assist so sooooo helpful! The continouus forward-force is what makes the difference, without the motor the back tire would slip with every pedal push. So if there is surprise-snow in the morning, I use my recumbent bike, and the next day the paths will be free again and I can use my DF. When I still had my Quest, I once rolled over when I tried to cross a snow pile diagonally. Bad experience...
Hello crummel, it's Kräuterbutter here; I have had the same experience in the summer with my trike: there is a spot at my grandparents' place - a compressed gravel road - where I can't make it up with my trike. It's not due to lack of power, but the impossibility of pedaling absolutely smoothly ("runder Tritt") - the torque peaks always cause the rear wheel to lose traction, no grip. With an electric motor - and it doesn't even need to provide strong assistance - and its perfectly "smooth pedaling", it's easy to make it up... the torque peaks disappear, and grip is maintained.
I’m a little curious if I could cut my commute time with adding electric assist to the rear wheel to my FWD recumbent. And a also a goal could be to commute more days in the week. Because right now it would be too much and too little rest to commute each day. Maybe two in wheel motors on the front wheels would make the velomobile a all terrain beast 🙂
I bought a nice Grin Satiator charger that works on my different bike batteries. Then I left my old velomobile and trike chargers at work, so I could top up the battery during the day in winter. In summer the batteries easily cope with a roundtrip, even within the 80-40% range.
If only they spent the same effort maintaining the bike roads as they did for the roads for cars. Car roads looked clear while the bike roads were totally trashed.
snow from the roads r pushed aside on the bike lanes in my hometowns so I have to bike on the streets ... which I do anyways 😂 now that I have a quattrovelo
With some 13 years of experience in e-assist I can tell you: don't be too obsessed about leaving the battery fully charged for long, even a month wouldn't be so harmful; it's much worse leaving them almost drained for long periods, 'cause the bms keeps draining some microAmpere and there's the risk of undervoltage. I changed both my Panasonic batteries after 8 - 9 years and they could still drag the bike for some 25 km on smooth flat. As for the delayed stop, this happens to all of my bikes / trike as I always use hub motors with speed sensor, and the delay in those cases can be even longer. However, if the Quattrovelo has brakes on the front wheels only, you may apply a simple (extreme) trick to prevent spinning: just pull the brakes hard for one second or two in order to lock the front wheels, tyres won't get damaged because of the snow and you would turn them into skids, while the rear wheels will keep spinning thus having more grip sideways.
Great video ! I wonder how good a winter bike like your Azub Max with e-assist would be. I've been using my Toxy e-assist recumbent for a few months now and the difference between with and without the assist is quite stunning in bad road conditions (talking more about mud than snow in my area, but the point should stand ^^).
I did plan few years ago to mount a motor to the Azub. I would have mounted a hub motor to the front wheel making it two wheel drive. That would help very much in snow.
@@TheVelomobileChannel I have a front hub motor on my UP-Bike. Good for normal conditions, already have problems on steep hills when there are gravel roads or mud. On a hill, you want to use your max. assist. With this configuration, it is not possible (for me). But I use it mostly on the road and I'm very happy that it can free spin over 25 km/h, so there is no additional rolling resistance when cruising on higher speeds (mid-drive always has them).
Good one Saukki, you put me to shame as I haven't ridden my eQV much this winter here in the UK. Of course we don't have many cycle paths though so the roads can be dangerous when idiot car and truck drivers don't allow for the conditions. Perhaps you should investigate a Cycle Analyst 3 controller for your assist system (which is what I have) and it is much more accurate and configurable for most easssist systems.
You probably need a second battery to keep rotating just in case you need it for winter temperatures. These lithium will last for years if you only charge them to 80 percent and don't fully discharge them down to about 20 percent.
1: The battery case is at 2,5°C, but the batteries inside it, are maybe a bit warmer... Anyway, I think that such low temperatures are forbiding for battery-usage in any way, cause you shouldn´t draw power from them, when they get so cold. that will destry them. A simple styropore-box of 2cm-styropore would maybe change everything, or else, you end up with a damaged or dead battery. Keeping tha battery full for longer periods of time is still harmless, compared to drawning it while the battery is cold. 2: You surely know those "imukupin nostin", single-suction-cup-lifter for small furniture. Maybe you need one instead of a shovel. When confronting a high snow-bank, you can fix it at the velomobile´s front-end, lift solely the front-end, and drag it over the snow-bank... I think that´s less work and more lightweight than a shovel... You can still deliberately step the snow-bank a bit flatter with your shoes, while going over it, for the sake of other commuters, that are to come...
Insulation is a great idea. Will try next ride, because my QV stays outdoors during working hours. Battery is bad? Fluctuations like that should not happen. My battery levels stay rock solid. As for the disply. Check Eggrider. And yes, like Markus says, the new wipers on the German forum are great. Search for fadenwischer
Some battery cell chemistries "sag" more than others. Just as a rider can get breathless under max. output, but still keep going for much longer after the climb is done, some batteries act the same way, sagging in voltage severely under heavy load. But then battery can shoot back up in voltage as load is diminished. I agree, seeing a percentage ping-pong like that shown seems like a display/controller software issue of not properly handling the transition between to SOC display levels. It's unfortunate that most energy gauges are based solely on voltage and not on a running monitor of current expended in combination with voltage, which could offer a better picture of actual SOC.
Also pro tip. Its better to have charged your battery to 100% and not use all of it than charge it to something like 60 and run out. Battery health is decreased a lot more when you drain it to zero than if you went all the way to 100% Keeping the battery at zero or at 100% for too long will kill it faster. But if you charge to 100 and use it the same day that is better than running out completely
@Saukki what tires do you have fitted for winter riding? I sold Pennywise before I could try them, but for my new QV, Barney the LEGborghini, I will try the Schwalbe Marathon 365 tires in winter. You should also try studded winter tires. Unfortunately, you have more snow than ice, so traction could still be an issue. I like the suggestion that you should wire two batteries in parallel.
Can you modify the eVelo to accept fat tires? Studded fat tires ;)? If one can swap wheels quickly (with a fork modif and some spacers), might work. The battery life will be crap though :)
The display in my WAW is also too bright in winter or by night. Therefore, I have a nylon ladies sock, black, 20 DEN pulled over it. So, everything is still good readable, but not so bright any more.
I'm really interested to getting a Velomobile 4 daily commute to work, however am worried about few steep hills I have to deal w/. Any recommendations on e-assist versions 4 that purpose?
Great idea with the battery insulation! I was thinking of the same thing. Or, can one keep the battery indoors and only take it out for the ride? With insulation, may keep the temp around room temp?
@@TheVelomobileChannel I see, so the temperature of the battery was going down during the ride. A Styrofoam box may insulate it better? But then I do not know how much space there is around the battery. Also, you generate heat inside yourself, that may help keeping the batt warm, too.
You need at least a 20 Ah 48 v battery. Do not cheap out on the battery or go minimalistic for weight like you are doing. The battery will have a longer life that way. Forget about that 80% stuff. That is only if you never use the bike and only do short trips relative to battery size. Never let your battery stay out in the cold. Use a backpack and bring it inside were you work. I ride a Rans Stratus recumbent with a BBS02 750W motor. I pedal hard and get 2 hours out of my battery and get 40Km in mountain foot hills. Tempatures are down to - 15 to -30 at times. Are you guys limited to 200W motors? Schwalbe Ice Spike Pros is you could fit them but any Schwalbe studded tires are best. Pump them up hard for clear roads. You want to cut through and sink down to the pavement for traction, not float over it.
I’ve shown in one of my earlier videos that you have to clear the cleats before cliping in. You need a tool, some kind of hook or spike, to remove the ice and snow from the cleats.
two comments: There are battery chargers with ventilation. They stay a lot cooler when the normal charger. The myth about the heating motor in velomobiles is nonsense. I have driven around 20 k with a motor inside a velomobileA. And never had any problems with over heating them. Even on long trips in summer.
It depends how much it has been snowing. Usually we don’t get that much snow in one go. And there must be quite a lot of snow until it’s not passable by a car. Trust me, I know 😅 But in general we have pretty decent winter maintenance. Though there’s only limited amount of snow plows, so all the roads can’t be cleared simultaneously.
5:59 mitä tässä tapahtu? eiks ton auton pitäs pysähtyä kun näytti siltä että hän kääntyy ja muistaakseni jos auto kääntyy niin pitää varoa myös pyöräilijöitä.
"Is it possible to travel at 25km/h? Today we find out!" I wanna see you go full "lazy" and go 50-100km/h in this. Do it in 15-30 min. See what kinda kWh per kilometer it gets compared to a Tesla. If someone else (in a territory not hostile to usable-speed light EV's) pledges to do it I will subscribe to them immediately.
Hi Saukki
I You put an 12V-relay at the brakelight-contact and at least at an Bafang centermotor, it can switch off the motor instantly and its soon feels quite natural to stop the motor this way. Works fine at my Strada velomobile. Happy driving 😎
One bit of advice for you, if your machine is set up like mine and has a brake sensor in the brake levers, if you want the motor to cut out instantly, instead of after a delay, is to tap the brake lever, not enough to engage the brakes, but just enough to cut out the motor. Learned that one the hard way after a couple of incidents. One thing to keep in mind if you do this, though, is that there will be a delay before the motor kicks in again that you won't have if you didn't touch the brakes, as the controller will be clearing the brake sensors.
So Interesting. A winter and offroad optimized e-velomobile seems possible, and you pointed out what it would need. The market will be much too small, though 😁 But it would be such an interesting piece of tech! High ground clearance, 4WD and 4WD high-powered electric assist, ASR, same lane width back and front, battery insulation, thin shell insulation and draft protection inside, adjustable ventholes, rollover guard, quick-attach snow chains … anything else?
A fleet of velomobile snowplows to keep the bike paths clear of snow.
Once again a beautiful video in the snow! Your videos are great 👍Best greetings André
Great to "be back" on your roads. 🙂
I never use bike lines/roads if there is snow on them. If there is snow on the bike path I just ride on the road and slow down the traffic. Car drivers can complain as much as they want, it is not the cyclist's fault if there is snow on cycle paths. But I also have very strong light on the back for these situations so that the cars can see me very well and avoid accidents.
Yes. This has been my experience this winter in Minnesota. I think our winter is maybe similar to yours this year. A lot of snow and very cold. Sometimes I can use my velomobile with e-assist, but sometimes it is just better to use my car, even though I would much rather use my velomobile.
You surely know those single-suction-cup-lifters for small furniture. Maybe you need one instead of a shovel. When confronting a high snow-bank, you can fix it at the velomobile´s front-end, lift solely the front-end, and drag it over the snow-bank... I think that´s less work and more lightweight than a shovel... You can still deliberately step the snow-bank a bit flatter with your shoes, while going over it, for the sake of other commuters, that are to come...
I'm originally from Alaveteli, and i love that you are brave enough to drive around those parts haha. I shouldn't complain about living in tampere where bike paths are better maintained.
Great video! Thumbs up.
Some time ago I saw some videos of a german guy mounting a Bafang engine with two 900 Wh Batteries to his bike.
Using two batteries has two advantages: Higher range and increased lifetime of the battery as you spread the power to two batteries instead of one.
The Batteries are quit heavy but with e drive it doesn’t matter I guess. But one Batterie costs 700 - 800€, so quite expensive.
puh... 700-800€
when you buy your cells by yourself - or excample at nkon - you get very good, high-power cells of very good quality
and then you can build a 900Wh Battery for about 300 Euro easily..
put a 50 Euro BMS on the battery for safety
just have to spend one afternoon for doing all the soldering
Your channel is my favourite. You give the most complete information on operating a velomobile in different conditions
About the display...
If you get a small piece of polycarbonate/lexan plastic, cut it to the size of the screen.
And then take window tint plastic and put it on to make a filter. You can put multiple layers.
It can be stuck to the screen, taken on/off when needed.
Good channel. Thanks.
Man, i really love your vids. Thanks dude 🙂
Yeah, winter cycling is fun.
I slipped off an icy path today, destroying a luggage bag clip, my jacket and my rear derailer (derailleur?).
Will take the car tomorrow. Although I hate it.
Insulating the battery is worth doing, it should prolong its life. Also taking the battery with you when your vehicle is left in a cold conditions.
In a perfect world battery should be charged to 80% and used to 30%. Leaving an additional charger in a workplace seems to be a good idea.
Probably you can glue some kind of a dark film to make a screen darker.
Another way of spending less time in road is changing your house. Or changing your job :D
Okay, bye! :D
Thank you very much for this 🥰
This is fascinating! You must be in excellent shape!
Thank you for sharing the very useful experience. I am sorry the velomobile cannot handle all the conditions and you cannot always cycle.
Hey saukki. Since I use the wipers from german velomobilforum on my e Quatrevelo driving in bad conditions (snow, fog, rain) in combination with pinlock30 is really great. I guess you should try this combination.
I bought my bafang system with optimised configuration from german dealer. Are you familiar with optimised assist profiles for velomobiles? Maybe this is more healthy for your batery too.
I've got the display between my feets centered and i really like this position. KR Markus
You can change the display to another Bafang system, too. There are ones with better information, and simple ones with only SOC, speed and distance. But be carefull: There are bafang and kuteng compatible systems. You can't use kuteng or KT when using a bafang controller. Bafang hub motor with KT-Controller and KT-Display is possible. But on the mid-drive bafang, the controller is integrated, I think.
I live and ride in the Cascade, and sometimes the Grand Teton mountains. What I have done is put two batteries wired in parallel. Which gives me twice the depth of charge, at the same Voltage. Which is 48VX40Ah. Although I don't need to regulate the top end speed, like you do, as there is no way I'm going faster then 15 mph up 13 miles of 8% grade, and coming down, it can't keep up anyway. Considering your commute, that is what I would do, just put two batteries in parallel for the Winter, and pull one in Summer.
That’s a good idea
imo , the best electric assist system is a HSD drive at the pedals with pedal assist on torque, and a 14 speed Rohloff in the rear wheel.
And with a belt transmission that is far more reliable and maintenance free instead of a chain one.
Are the laws regarding street usage in winter the same as in Germany? (If the snow is too much cyclists are permitted to use the road in the name of safety, not that it snows much in Germany nowadays). I live in Costa Rica now, and I would like to see you do a speed test in some hilly terrain. I want to know if it is viable for me to use a Velomobile with e-assist reasonably in my area. Thanks for the awesome content and enjoy the snow!
I don’t think we have similar law.
Speed test in hilly terrain might be bit difficult to make, because there’s basically almost no hills in my area 😄
When we have snow here (which only rarely happens) I use a Wolf & Wolf AT1-E, and the electric assist so sooooo helpful! The continouus forward-force is what makes the difference, without the motor the back tire would slip with every pedal push.
So if there is surprise-snow in the morning, I use my recumbent bike, and the next day the paths will be free again and I can use my DF.
When I still had my Quest, I once rolled over when I tried to cross a snow pile diagonally. Bad experience...
Hello crummel, it's Kräuterbutter here;
I have had the same experience in the summer with my trike: there is a spot at my grandparents' place - a compressed gravel road - where I can't make it up with my trike.
It's not due to lack of power, but the impossibility of pedaling absolutely smoothly ("runder Tritt") - the torque peaks always cause the rear wheel to lose traction, no grip.
With an electric motor - and it doesn't even need to provide strong assistance - and its perfectly "smooth pedaling", it's easy to make it up... the torque peaks disappear, and grip is maintained.
I’m a little curious if I could cut my commute time with adding electric assist to the rear wheel to my FWD recumbent.
And a also a goal could be to commute more days in the week. Because right now it would be too much and too little rest to commute each day.
Maybe two in wheel motors on the front wheels would make the velomobile a all terrain beast 🙂
Electric assist would definietly help.
I bought a nice Grin Satiator charger that works on my different bike batteries. Then I left my old velomobile and trike chargers at work, so I could top up the battery during the day in winter. In summer the batteries easily cope with a roundtrip, even within the 80-40% range.
If only they spent the same effort maintaining the bike roads as they did for the roads for cars. Car roads looked clear while the bike roads were totally trashed.
snow from the roads r pushed aside on the bike lanes in my hometowns so I have to bike on the streets ... which I do anyways 😂 now that I have a quattrovelo
With some 13 years of experience in e-assist I can tell you: don't be too obsessed about leaving the battery fully charged for long, even a month wouldn't be so harmful; it's much worse leaving them almost drained for long periods, 'cause the bms keeps draining some microAmpere and there's the risk of undervoltage. I changed both my Panasonic batteries after 8 - 9 years and they could still drag the bike for some 25 km on smooth flat.
As for the delayed stop, this happens to all of my bikes / trike as I always use hub motors with speed sensor, and the delay in those cases can be even longer. However, if the Quattrovelo has brakes on the front wheels only, you may apply a simple (extreme) trick to prevent spinning: just pull the brakes hard for one second or two in order to lock the front wheels, tyres won't get damaged because of the snow and you would turn them into skids, while the rear wheels will keep spinning thus having more grip sideways.
Great video ! I wonder how good a winter bike like your Azub Max with e-assist would be. I've been using my Toxy e-assist recumbent for a few months now and the difference between with and without the assist is quite stunning in bad road conditions (talking more about mud than snow in my area, but the point should stand ^^).
I did plan few years ago to mount a motor to the Azub. I would have mounted a hub motor to the front wheel making it two wheel drive. That would help very much in snow.
@@TheVelomobileChannel I have a front hub motor on my UP-Bike. Good for normal conditions, already have problems on steep hills when there are gravel roads or mud. On a hill, you want to use your max. assist. With this configuration, it is not possible (for me). But I use it mostly on the road and I'm very happy that it can free spin over 25 km/h, so there is no additional rolling resistance when cruising on higher speeds (mid-drive always has them).
Don't fit a front hub motor for winter riding, it will not be safe.
Good one Saukki, you put me to shame as I haven't ridden my eQV much this winter here in the UK. Of course we don't have many cycle paths though so the roads can be dangerous when idiot car and truck drivers don't allow for the conditions. Perhaps you should investigate a Cycle Analyst 3 controller for your assist system (which is what I have) and it is much more accurate and configurable for most easssist systems.
You probably need a second battery to keep rotating just in case you need it for winter temperatures. These lithium will last for years if you only charge them to 80 percent and don't fully discharge them down to about 20 percent.
Holy shit! :D Same thing here with wife and work commuting. XD Very sad that roads are not maintained. =(
RE: Display - you could consider putting a tinted layer of plastic or similar over it - or making a tinted 'sunglasses' cover that is removable?
1: The battery case is at 2,5°C, but the batteries inside it, are maybe a bit warmer... Anyway, I think that such low temperatures are forbiding for battery-usage in any way, cause you shouldn´t draw power from them, when they get so cold. that will destry them. A simple styropore-box of 2cm-styropore would maybe change everything, or else, you end up with a damaged or dead battery. Keeping tha battery full for longer periods of time is still harmless, compared to drawning it while the battery is cold.
2: You surely know those "imukupin nostin", single-suction-cup-lifter for small furniture. Maybe you need one instead of a shovel. When confronting a high snow-bank, you can fix it at the velomobile´s front-end, lift solely the front-end, and drag it over the snow-bank... I think that´s less work and more lightweight than a shovel... You can still deliberately step the snow-bank a bit flatter with your shoes, while going over it, for the sake of other commuters, that are to come...
Crazy idea: Put a scoop in front or your Velomobile; push the snow aside while you're riding through.
that´s solely bad aerodynamical practice
@@klausbrinck2137 Depends on the shape of the scoop.
3:52 it looks damn sick!
Insulation is a great idea. Will try next ride, because my QV stays outdoors during working hours.
Battery is bad? Fluctuations like that should not happen. My battery levels stay rock solid.
As for the disply. Check Eggrider.
And yes, like Markus says, the new wipers on the German forum are great. Search for fadenwischer
Some battery cell chemistries "sag" more than others. Just as a rider can get breathless under max. output, but still keep going for much longer after the climb is done, some batteries act the same way, sagging in voltage severely under heavy load. But then battery can shoot back up in voltage as load is diminished. I agree, seeing a percentage ping-pong like that shown seems like a display/controller software issue of not properly handling the transition between to SOC display levels. It's unfortunate that most energy gauges are based solely on voltage and not on a running monitor of current expended in combination with voltage, which could offer a better picture of actual SOC.
Thicker tires would help some with the deeper snow. Though if they will fit is another thing completely.
Also pro tip. Its better to have charged your battery to 100% and not use all of it than charge it to something like 60 and run out.
Battery health is decreased a lot more when you drain it to zero than if you went all the way to 100%
Keeping the battery at zero or at 100% for too long will kill it faster. But if you charge to 100 and use it the same day that is better than running out completely
@Saukki what tires do you have fitted for winter riding? I sold Pennywise before I could try them, but for my new QV, Barney the LEGborghini, I will try the Schwalbe Marathon 365 tires in winter. You should also try studded winter tires. Unfortunately, you have more snow than ice, so traction could still be an issue. I like the suggestion that you should wire two batteries in parallel.
I have Schwalbe Marathon GT365 tyres. No need for studds on snow.
@@TheVelomobileChannel I forgot you had done a video with the studded tires. Sorry. Is the Tongsheng a 250W?
Hello Saukki. Have you checked out the Revonte electric assist with incorporated steeples gear, the company is in Finland.
Very impressive! Is it legal to drive your four-wheeler with motor assist? (I'm trying to make a wooden one..) Thanks. Tim
Here it is legal. But I know it’s not legal everywhere. Check your local legistation.
@@TheVelomobileChannel Thanks - we're in Ireland and we thought no where in the EU was legal. You're so lucky!
Can you modify the eVelo to accept fat tires? Studded fat tires ;)? If one can swap wheels quickly (with a fork modif and some spacers), might work. The battery life will be crap though :)
There’s definietly not room for fat tyres in this velomobile. It would need quite large modifications 🤔
@@TheVelomobileChannel Yeah, if I tried this I prob would ruin the 10K toy and voided the warranty by all means.
You could put some tinting film over the display to make it even dimmer
The display in my WAW is also too bright in winter or by night. Therefore, I have a nylon ladies sock, black, 20 DEN pulled over it. So, everything is still good readable, but not so bright any more.
I'm really interested to getting a Velomobile 4 daily commute to work, however am worried about few steep hills I have to deal w/. Any recommendations on e-assist versions 4 that purpose?
You could put your battery inside a polystyrene box, that would keep it warm
Great idea with the battery insulation! I was thinking of the same thing. Or, can one keep the battery indoors and only take it out for the ride? With insulation, may keep the temp around room temp?
I always keep my velomobiles in warm garage, so what you saw in the video was a battery which I’ve kept indoors and took out only for the ride.
@@TheVelomobileChannel I see, so the temperature of the battery was going down during the ride. A Styrofoam box may insulate it better? But then I do not know how much space there is around the battery. Also, you generate heat inside yourself, that may help keeping the batt warm, too.
Make a little snow plow for it.
I think you need another battery, and 4wd
counter intuitively, the more motors you add, the more efficient the system gets.
”Vittu…”😂
You need at least a 20 Ah 48 v battery. Do not cheap out on the battery or go minimalistic for weight like you are doing. The battery will have a longer life that way. Forget about that 80% stuff. That is only if you never use the bike and only do short trips relative to battery size.
Never let your battery stay out in the cold. Use a backpack and bring it inside were you work.
I ride a Rans Stratus recumbent with a BBS02 750W motor. I pedal hard and get 2 hours out of my battery and get 40Km in mountain foot hills. Tempatures are down to - 15 to -30 at times.
Are you guys limited to 200W motors?
Schwalbe Ice Spike Pros is you could fit them but any Schwalbe studded tires are best. Pump them up hard for clear roads. You want to cut through and sink down to the pavement for traction, not float over it.
I'm surprised your spd cleats still work after running around in the snow so much.
I’ve shown in one of my earlier videos that you have to clear the cleats before cliping in. You need a tool, some kind of hook or spike, to remove the ice and snow from the cleats.
i think it needs the suspension raised a bit
would it be easier to pull with a rope in the snow than to push?
Probably 🤔
Lots of firmware mods available for this motor including increaseing the max cadence
two comments:
There are battery chargers with ventilation. They stay a lot cooler when the normal charger.
The myth about the heating motor in velomobiles is nonsense. I have driven around 20 k with a motor inside a velomobileA. And never had any problems with over heating them. Even on long trips in summer.
What tire width do you get max on the rear axle of the QV ?
But essentially it would be possible to commute by velomobile if the road maintenance was as good as on the car road?
Yep, that is the case.
Put a snow plow on it
You need a pull rope to pull it through the snow. with a hook in front of the bike
1200 euro for a 36v 15.6 Ah battery and motor kit sounds insanely expensive for what you get.
i could fit two 48 volt kits for that price.
Suomi 💪 Sisu 💪
Are the roads not generally passable when it’s been snowing?
It depends how much it has been snowing. Usually we don’t get that much snow in one go. And there must be quite a lot of snow until it’s not passable by a car. Trust me, I know 😅
But in general we have pretty decent winter maintenance. Though there’s only limited amount of snow plows, so all the roads can’t be cleared simultaneously.
In Russia (same climate, worst government) nobody rode road bikes in the winter AFAIR. At least not in the 80s-90s.
@@TheVelomobileChannel. I was more wondering I’f you could ride on the road instead…
Electric Fat bike for snowy days?
Get a second charger for work… no need to lug it back and forth ;)
Studded tire maybe
honestly i would just use the normal roads than bike paths really
5:59 mitä tässä tapahtu? eiks ton auton pitäs pysähtyä kun näytti siltä että hän kääntyy ja muistaakseni jos auto kääntyy niin pitää varoa myös pyöräilijöitä.
Auto tulee kolmion takaa, joten mulla on etuajo-oikeus.
@@TheVelomobileChannel noniin no sehän on sitten aika selkee.
Nope, not happening. Thanks for posting 👍
07:22 you need bigger motor and spikes on your tires.
And how would it help in that situation, when there’s so much snow that the wheels are not touching the ground?
@@TheVelomobileChannel you need fat tyre.
put a filter over your display
"Is it possible to travel at 25km/h? Today we find out!"
I wanna see you go full "lazy" and go 50-100km/h in this. Do it in 15-30 min. See what kinda kWh per kilometer it gets compared to a Tesla.
If someone else (in a territory not hostile to usable-speed light EV's) pledges to do it I will subscribe to them immediately.