Wow! I have watched about 20 videos on rim joist and sill plate repairs and this one explained more in depth and thoroughly in just 5 minutes what other 20 minute videos failed to do. Thank you! thank you!
These videos have kept me sane during my home remodel. Bit off a bit more than I was prepared to chew, but having a visualization of what needs to be done has made all the difference for me. Thank you.
Thks for lessons. My old house 102 years has serious sag cracked first floor joist. Hi humidity and had poor drainage for years. In this video replacing sill plate in sections really helped. One man show here and that tip makes it manageable. I do worry if floor joist can support during repair. Not great clearance on that end of two story structure. I have an old Joyce house jack heavy
Great video! Just inspected a house we are considering buying and the front sill and rim joist is rotted. This is a great video showing what and how to repair it. Thank you for putting the time in to make it!
Wow! Thank you Gregvancom! This Video was so helpful! Gave me such a better understanding on what I need to do to replace and fix my Rim Joist! Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for explaining it this way. This explains 98% of the problem I am facing. I have rim joist that is rotten and that has spilled to the sub floor. And the wall studs above. I need a temporary fix till summer. Do you provide consultations?
I was thinking about remodeling the rim joist with the sill plate. Removing the sill plate to add a waterproofing membrane under the sill (W.R. Meadows - Mel-Rol) so that I can connect with the waterproof membrane on the basement. I could add hardware at the same time (example : anchor bolt). Thank you very much for this video, very informative. Take care.
Hi, thanks for the useful content. In all of the videos, it seems as if having exterior access to the rim joist is understood. Do you have any videos on when there is not easy access to the rim joist externally and all of the repairs have to be made from the basement? Thanks!
Amazing video! One question: directly behind my termite-destroyed rim joist I have very large stone steps that would be difficult and costly to remove and reinstall. Would it be okay to not replace the section of rim joist at all and simply install blocking?
All my wood in my crawl space have dry rot including girders, beams and joist. It still feels solid but I did a pick test and indeed have dry rot. It’s an 80 year old house. I have all the subfloor removed because I planned to replace the floor joist and girders. Replacing the beams will be more challenging , will it be worth the extra work or is dry rot not that big of a deal (threat).? The girders and beams are 4x6
Can this be applied if I have a basement underneath the Joist that needs replacing? Same concept? Just cut out sections and replace? I have about 7 ft of basement under my joist that needs replaced. I see this is based off a crawl space.
Hi, Great video. I notice you put supports under joist approximately one foot away from area to be worked one but how do I support the area if my joist are rotted? I need to remove rotted sill plates and rotted joist, also not sure which to do first.
If you can't use this method, then you might need to support walls, ceiling and roof to remove and replace damage. I don't think I have a video on this, but you check out the website and maybe get a few more ideas.
I have a lot of termite damage on one rim joint that runs parallel to the joists right up to the corner. I found a nasty clump of termite detritus about the size of a soccer ball in the corner. Not sure about the rim joist that runs perpendicular, but guessing there's damage. Trouble is, it's covered with stucco on the outside so I can't get to it. 1. Do you think blocking it only will be okay? It isn't blocked now. 2. I'm guessing I should remove the damaged wood before I block it or should I leave it as is?
Great info, but I wish you would have addressed the other side of the rim joist where the first joist runs parallel to the rest of the joists. I need to replace parts of it but not sure how this would affect the weight of wall that sits on it. I was thinking about doubling it on the inside with another joist sitting on the sill plate.
thanks for the video. this is helpful. i'm helping my son restore a 1931 2-story house. we discovered some termite/water damage along the back of the house. it's kind of an odd old construction in that there is a double rim joist perpendicular to the floor joists and the wall studs are nailed directly to that double rim joist, so there's no horizontal 2x4 under the studs. I'll need to replace about 14' of the sill and also a lot of the rim joist as well. I'm not sure how far into the inner rim joist the damage goes, but I'm assuming it's worse in some places than others. Your idea of blocking may work for the inner one I'm thinking. The problem with pulling the inner one is that all the floor joists hang notched onto a 2x4 that is nailed to the inner rim joist, so the floor joists aren't actually sitting on the sill plate. So replacing the outside one may not be too hard (at least 2" of the 4" wall studs will be supported by the inner one). If I run into more damage to the inner one, do you have any advice? I planned to jack up the joists to replace the sill first, then tackle the rim joists. I thought maybe I could wedge blocks of wood between the concrete block foundation and the bottom of the floor joists to support them from underneath till I can replace the bad sections.
@@davidgaskin1558 thankfully i only had to replace the sill plate and the outer 2 rim joists. The inner one seemed okay for the most part. It’s all done now.
I have termites damaged header joist , In my case have doubled header , they also eat bottom plate and studs, was doing exactly as you said by 3 ft section, got lucky house has extra joist jack levelers
im in a mobile home being help by a beam and under that its on blocks in the center not the edges. The rim joist is rotten and has no sill. Is it safe to remove the rim joist with no problem? I did add blocks between the floor joists right under the wall for support as a precaution so that the rim joist can be removed and will do it in 4ft lengths just to be safe.
what do you do if 10 seperate 12' long unsupported 16oc floor joists are damaged, 10ft of sill plate and 10ft of rim joist are beyond repair, and two and a half feet of the 2x4 wall above it is also damaged since the floor joists are damaged, and the middle of the 2x4 wall is floating, it feel impossible to know if it'll bear being lifted to remove the rim joist/sill plate. but the rim/sill have to be replaced to replace the floor joists, and the floor joists have to be replaced before a temporary wall can be built on the first floor to take stress of the 2x4 wall's bottom plate. the ends of the rim joists show approx < 1/8th' but less than 1/4" deflection when pressed with a screw driver. asking for a frustrated and bleak feeling friend.
Now that isn't going to be easy. I will put it on my list of videos to be made in the future, but it won't be made in the near future. You can remove the stairs and work from the front or leave the stairs and remove other sections of the building and work from the sides, top or back. I can't guarantee any quick fix, but feel free to send me some pictures of your project and I will see if I can help you get started.
We’re in the process of doing exactly this repair and your video has been helpful. Some of the floor joists have a rotten corner, the part that was sitting on the sill, the rest looks brand new. Is it advisable to replace the whole joist while the rim is off or is it ok so sister the tip to something? My local contractor recommended plywood on either side, what’s your take? Thanks for the great content!
Plywood might work if the damage is minimal, otherwise you will need to sister an additional joist next to the existing one or replace the existing one if the damage is severe.
What if it's brick and you need to try and complete this from inside? I imagine you would have to cut the joists and replace sections of the rim joist and/or sill plate at a time. Then put joists back into place.
Could you show me the link to the video you promised about the rim joist going in the other direction? My husband is working on a upper deck repair and the ledger was attached to the rim joist and both have wood rot right in the corner.
Can you watch the video again and let me know if the link is located in the video or if you had a difficult time noticing it? I'm always looking for ways to make better videos and any help you can give me will help others like yourself in the future. ua-cam.com/video/sUZfDPdaRWY/v-deo.html heres' the link you wanted.
@@gregvancom The link was not easy to find. The link is not in the video nor is it at the end, lots of great videos, just not the one I was looking for. I went to the website and perused your wares, then came back to the original video and sent my question. I started watching other videos and the one I wanted from you appeared on the right hand side, it felt more like luck. Thanks so much. Your videos are very intuitive and cover most questions a person might have.
Is there a way you could get this done if you have a section with rotted beams, joists, rim joists, and sills? Would you do joists, then beams, then rim and sill?
You would need to check with local building department, but most of the time if you're simply replacing damaged wood and rebuilding it in exactly the same way as it was built originally, an inspection might not be necessary. Again, check with your local building department, for more information.
Is it necessary to place support under the floor joists if you're only replacing the rim joist when the floor joists are perpendicular? Isn't the main function of the rim joist to provide lateral support to the floor joists and not so much vertical load support?
Your question isn't easy to answer, because it could be confusing to others. The best way I could suggest whether or not you would need additional support would be whether or not you knew what you were doing. If you don't know what you're doing or you're not sure, then put as much possible support as you can under everything to be safe. The rim joist will also be providing support for the wall framing above and everything sitting on top of it and definitely providing lateral support to the floor joist.
Yes, use screws or nails. Sometimes you might need to install a new board next to or behind another board, to create areas that sections of the framing can be attached to. I realize that sounds like a bunch of gibberish, but if you haven't figured it out feel free to send me a picture and you can get our email address of the website for more information.
Can you cut a hole in rim joist to run a duct thru to heat and cool your legal breezeway? My breezeway is step down to a concrete slab 10ft wide and then a wall with a door and another step down to a concrete floor for the 2 car garage.
Like you say all the time: " i'm not a structural engineer".... maybe not but it's real good videos to save some thousand of dollars. I can't imagined what contractor could say about those jobs to people who has no idea how to hold an hammer probably thousands of dollars for a job of a few hundred in materials... again, thank you for those extremely useful and well explained videos.
Comments like yours are always sincerely appreciated and you've got a good point. Some contractors will take advantage of people who don't have limited knowledge about construction. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Sucks for me I have a huge concrete porch block in but the slab fell back a little so it might be a little harder to do gonna he difficult trying to repair it all from inside the house tearing up the floors 😔 thank you for the helpful videos ❤️
It's not going to be easy and in some cases it's not going to happen, unless you remove the brick on the exterior. It can be done, I just don't have a simple method yet to provide you with.
Thanks for this video! I was trying to figure out how I was going to retrofit a 5.25" x 9.25" LVL beam sistered to the rim joist above an egress window that my contractor didn't put a header over and I finally realize that I'm going to have to cut the rim joist off, cut the floor/ceiling joists shorter, install the beam with joist hangers to the floor joists, then reinstall the rim joist. There's just no physical way to install a flush header beam from the inside only.
So i have a problem with my front door it wasn’t flashed under the threshold and my house i just bought didn’t have gutters so water has been splashing under the door rotting the door frame an a little bit of the sub floor an about a foot or so of the rim joist…problem is my deck it bolted to the rim joist how would i go about replacing Thats section without removing my deck? I plan on putting in a new door an frame plus replacing that peace of floor…the house is only 7years old 🤦♂️.. had a crappy inspector.
@@gregvancom yup im almost finished with it now, im also going to be replacing the front door an frame ive never done that but have decent carpenter skills an think i can handle it
I finally got it done..it definitely wasn’t a easy job but i got it all flashed an all the rot replaced with good treated wood should be better now..hopefully i dont have to do that ever again lol
You can use metal hardware or angle your nails. Sometimes using angled metal brackets are going to be easier, because they can be attached to the blocking first, then install the blocking, then attach blocking to the joist.
ua-cam.com/video/sUZfDPdaRWY/v-deo.html here's a link to the video about how to replace damaged crawlspace rim joists that are running parallel in fully supporting wall framing and roof framing loads above.
I always look forward to hearing the word awesome, thrown in with very informative and a thank you. You are absolutely welcome and thanks for watching.
@@gregvancom I will, I just finished a 4ft section today. I got some crawlspace work to finish finishing that spot but I'll take some from inside and I'll get you some outside from the next section. I'm dealing with brick veneer exterior.
Wow! I have watched about 20 videos on rim joist and sill plate repairs and this one explained more in depth and thoroughly in just 5 minutes what other 20 minute videos failed to do. Thank you! thank you!
These videos have kept me sane during my home remodel. Bit off a bit more than I was prepared to chew, but having a visualization of what needs to be done has made all the difference for me. Thank you.
You're welcome and I'm glad they helped.
Used your video to replace exterior rim joist and sill plate prior to my bathroom addition build. Went together smoothly. Thanks for you videos.
Glad to hear and thanks for letting me know how your project turned out.
Best videos on the internet hands down. Nw I'm not afraid to work on my house thank you.
This video explains the exact problem I'm tackling. I highly appreciate your time with this video, thank you!
Great to hear!
Thks for lessons. My old house 102 years has serious sag cracked first floor joist. Hi humidity and had poor drainage for years. In this video replacing sill plate in sections really helped. One man show here and that tip makes it manageable. I do worry if floor joist can support during repair. Not great clearance on that end of two story structure. I have an old Joyce house jack heavy
Defiantly take it slow when there's a lot of weight involved.
The blocking method is exactly what I needed Greg. Thanks!
You're welcome and thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video! Just inspected a house we are considering buying and the front sill and rim joist is rotted. This is a great video showing what and how to repair it. Thank you for putting the time in to make it!
Welcome and thanks for the nice comment.
Great visualizations and narration make your YT videos first class teaching tools. Very impressive!
Thank you.
RL
Thank you and comments like yours are always appreciated. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for making this video. Wasn’t sure how I was going to fix my rot problem... now I do!!
You're welcome and sometimes all we need is a good video.
This is exceptionally good and extremely helpful. Thank you for creating/sharing!!
Great video. How would you replace sill plate and rim joist with brick veneer, how can you do this from inside the crawlspace?
I don't have a simple and easy answer for that one and you might need to remove the brick. I just can't think of any other way how it can be done.
Wow! Thank you Gregvancom! This Video was so helpful! Gave me such a better understanding on what I need to do to replace and fix my Rim Joist! Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for explaining it this way. This explains 98% of the problem I am facing.
I have rim joist that is rotten and that has spilled to the sub floor. And the wall studs above. I need a temporary fix till summer. Do you provide consultations?
I was thinking about remodeling the rim joist with the sill plate. Removing the sill plate to add a waterproofing membrane under the sill (W.R. Meadows - Mel-Rol) so that I can connect with the waterproof membrane on the basement. I could add hardware at the same time (example : anchor bolt).
Thank you very much for this video, very informative. Take care.
This is an incredible video. Thank you so much for your detailed explanation and visualization. Bravo!
Thank you kindly!
Hi, thanks for the useful content. In all of the videos, it seems as if having exterior access to the rim joist is understood. Do you have any videos on when there is not easy access to the rim joist externally and all of the repairs have to be made from the basement? Thanks!
Not yet, because I can't figure out a simple method of repair.
blocking in-between is an obvious but genius idea. Thanks!
Amazing video! One question: directly behind my termite-destroyed rim joist I have very large stone steps that would be difficult and costly to remove and reinstall. Would it be okay to not replace the section of rim joist at all and simply install blocking?
I cannot provide you with structural engineering information, but have definitely seen what you're suggesting done before.
All my wood in my crawl space have dry rot including girders, beams and joist. It still feels solid but I did a pick test and indeed have dry rot. It’s an 80 year old house. I have all the subfloor removed because I planned to replace the floor joist and girders. Replacing the beams will be more challenging , will it be worth the extra work or is dry rot not that big of a deal (threat).? The girders and beams are 4x6
If they are damaged, then I would replace them.
This is exactly what I was looking for. I really enjoy your detailed videos
Awesome, thank you!
Any chance there is a video about replacing the mud sill/plate?
Can this be applied if I have a basement underneath the Joist that needs replacing? Same concept? Just cut out sections and replace? I have about 7 ft of basement under my joist that needs replaced. I see this is based off a crawl space.
Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks Greg!
You're welcome and thanks for watching my videos.
thanks for explaining this stuff in principle
So very helpful! The CAD model along with the explanation is excellent!
Glad you liked it.
Hi, Great video. I notice you put supports under joist approximately one foot away from area to be worked one but how do I support the area if my joist are rotted? I need to remove rotted sill plates and rotted joist, also not sure which to do first.
If you can't use this method, then you might need to support walls, ceiling and roof to remove and replace damage. I don't think I have a video on this, but you check out the website and maybe get a few more ideas.
The more explaining the better knowledge is power in these things for sure ty good sir
This vid answered the questions that I had. Thanks for sharing!
I am glad the video helped and thanks for watching.
Can I cut the 10” rim between 1st level ceiling and 2 level floor for installing 10x10” ductwork? Thanks
Great video & very informative. How would you deal with a corner problem of this kind ?
I will have to make another video on that.
Do you have a video for a rim joist and the joist which needs to be repaired or replaced
Whats the best way to connect it to the other rim joist next to it when replacing a section?
If the damage is inaccessible from the exterior and may only be repaired from the basement, what possible options would there be?
Amazing! Very honorable work my brother 👏🏽
Much appreciated
I have a lot of termite damage on one rim joint that runs parallel to the joists right up to the corner. I found a nasty clump of termite detritus about the size of a soccer ball in the corner. Not sure about the rim joist that runs perpendicular, but guessing there's damage.
Trouble is, it's covered with stucco on the outside so I can't get to it.
1. Do you think blocking it only will be okay? It isn't blocked now.
2. I'm guessing I should remove the damaged wood before I block it or should I leave it as is?
Yes, blocks can be used to provide addition support until stucco can be removed and this can be repaired.
Great info, but I wish you would have addressed the other side of the rim joist where the first joist runs parallel to the rest of the joists. I need to replace parts of it but not sure how this would affect the weight of wall that sits on it. I was thinking about doubling it on the inside with another joist sitting on the sill plate.
I'm sure there is a link in the video, to the other side, but if not then go to the framing repairs section at our website or crawlspace section.
@@gregvancom thanks!
This is very good info. I have one to fix on a house i grew up in thats about 60 yrs old. bathroom & kitchen floors are bad but brick on outside.
I still have to make a video for brick exteriors, because it can be a problem if the brick needs to be removed to make repairs.
thanks for the video. this is helpful. i'm helping my son restore a 1931 2-story house. we discovered some termite/water damage along the back of the house. it's kind of an odd old construction in that there is a double rim joist perpendicular to the floor joists and the wall studs are nailed directly to that double rim joist, so there's no horizontal 2x4 under the studs. I'll need to replace about 14' of the sill and also a lot of the rim joist as well. I'm not sure how far into the inner rim joist the damage goes, but I'm assuming it's worse in some places than others. Your idea of blocking may work for the inner one I'm thinking. The problem with pulling the inner one is that all the floor joists hang notched onto a 2x4 that is nailed to the inner rim joist, so the floor joists aren't actually sitting on the sill plate. So replacing the outside one may not be too hard (at least 2" of the 4" wall studs will be supported by the inner one). If I run into more damage to the inner one, do you have any advice? I planned to jack up the joists to replace the sill first, then tackle the rim joists. I thought maybe I could wedge blocks of wood between the concrete block foundation and the bottom of the floor joists to support them from underneath till I can replace the bad sections.
Did you ever find a solution to this? I think I have the exact same issue, just no sill plate.
@@davidgaskin1558 thankfully i only had to replace the sill plate and the outer 2 rim joists. The inner one seemed okay for the most part. It’s all done now.
How do i secure the floor joists to the new rim joists? Do i need access from the inside to install joist hangers?
I have termites damaged header joist , In my case have doubled header , they also eat bottom plate and studs, was doing exactly as you said by 3 ft section, got lucky house has extra joist jack levelers
im in a mobile home being help by a beam and under that its on blocks in the center not the edges. The rim joist is rotten and has no sill. Is it safe to remove the rim joist with no problem? I did add blocks between the floor joists right under the wall for support as a precaution so that the rim joist can be removed and will do it in 4ft lengths just to be safe.
what do you do if 10 seperate 12' long unsupported 16oc floor joists are damaged, 10ft of sill plate and 10ft of rim joist are beyond repair, and two and a half feet of the 2x4 wall above it is also damaged
since the floor joists are damaged, and the middle of the 2x4 wall is floating, it feel impossible to know if it'll bear being lifted to remove the rim joist/sill plate.
but the rim/sill have to be replaced to replace the floor joists,
and the floor joists have to be replaced before a temporary wall can be built on the first floor to take stress of the 2x4 wall's bottom plate.
the ends of the rim joists show approx < 1/8th' but less than 1/4" deflection when pressed with a screw driver.
asking for a frustrated and bleak feeling friend.
This is amazing and very helpful
I'm glad it helped and comments like yours are always sincerely appreciated. Thanks for watching our channel.
This is great....any suggestions for when rim joist is blocked externally by concrete stairs?
Now that isn't going to be easy. I will put it on my list of videos to be made in the future, but it won't be made in the near future. You can remove the stairs and work from the front or leave the stairs and remove other sections of the building and work from the sides, top or back. I can't guarantee any quick fix, but feel free to send me some pictures of your project and I will see if I can help you get started.
We’re in the process of doing exactly this repair and your video has been helpful. Some of the floor joists have a rotten corner, the part that was sitting on the sill, the rest looks brand new. Is it advisable to replace the whole joist while the rim is off or is it ok so sister the tip to something? My local contractor recommended plywood on either side, what’s your take? Thanks for the great content!
Plywood might work if the damage is minimal, otherwise you will need to sister an additional joist next to the existing one or replace the existing one if the damage is severe.
What if it's brick and you need to try and complete this from inside? I imagine you would have to cut the joists and replace sections of the rim joist and/or sill plate at a time. Then put joists back into place.
Thank for the great info. I sure needed to see this video.
You are so welcome!
So do I need to add support before I remove a section of the rim joist?
Could you show me the link to the video you promised about the rim joist going in the other direction? My husband is working on a upper deck repair and the ledger was attached to the rim joist and both have wood rot right in the corner.
Can you watch the video again and let me know if the link is located in the video or if you had a difficult time noticing it? I'm always looking for ways to make better videos and any help you can give me will help others like yourself in the future.
ua-cam.com/video/sUZfDPdaRWY/v-deo.html heres' the link you wanted.
@@gregvancom The link was not easy to find. The link is not in the video nor is it at the end, lots of great videos, just not the one I was looking for. I went to the website and perused your wares, then came back to the original video and sent my question. I started watching other videos and the one I wanted from you appeared on the right hand side, it felt more like luck. Thanks so much. Your videos are very intuitive and cover most questions a person might have.
Is there a way you could get this done if you have a section with rotted beams, joists, rim joists, and sills?
Would you do joists, then beams, then rim and sill?
Feel free to send me a picture of your project for more information and you can get our email address of the website.
How do you get it when the outside is covered with brick? This only works for a non brick home.
Is there any inspection code required?
You would need to check with local building department, but most of the time if you're simply replacing damaged wood and rebuilding it in exactly the same way as it was built originally, an inspection might not be necessary. Again, check with your local building department, for more information.
Is it necessary to place support under the floor joists if you're only replacing the rim joist when the floor joists are perpendicular? Isn't the main function of the rim joist to provide lateral support to the floor joists and not so much vertical load support?
Your question isn't easy to answer, because it could be confusing to others. The best way I could suggest whether or not you would need additional support would be whether or not you knew what you were doing. If you don't know what you're doing or you're not sure, then put as much possible support as you can under everything to be safe.
The rim joist will also be providing support for the wall framing above and everything sitting on top of it and definitely providing lateral support to the floor joist.
Hi Greg,
When you cut out sections of the rim joist do the installed sections need to be fastened together somehow?
Yes, use screws or nails. Sometimes you might need to install a new board next to or behind another board, to create areas that sections of the framing can be attached to. I realize that sounds like a bunch of gibberish, but if you haven't figured it out feel free to send me a picture and you can get our email address of the website for more information.
Thank you
Can you cut a hole in rim joist to run a duct thru to heat and cool your legal breezeway? My breezeway is step down to a concrete slab 10ft wide and then a wall with a door and another step down to a concrete floor for the 2 car garage.
It is done regularly to install crawlspace vents. They are usually installed in between the floor joists.
@@gregvancom thanks I been looking it up but havnt seen nothing about it really
Do the sub floors need to be under the wall frame????
It usually depends on the design, but I've seen plenty of repairs where the subfloor sheathing and floor framing butt up against the walls.
@@gregvancom thank you!
Great videos!
Like you say all the time: " i'm not a structural engineer".... maybe not but it's real good videos to save some thousand of dollars. I can't imagined what contractor could say about those jobs to people who has no idea how to hold an hammer probably thousands of dollars for a job of a few hundred in materials... again, thank you for those extremely useful and well explained videos.
Comments like yours are always sincerely appreciated and you've got a good point. Some contractors will take advantage of people who don't have limited knowledge about construction. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
would this (in your opinion) be sufficient over an access door if the sill plate is also rotted?
As long as the walls or joist are supported somehow, then this method should work just fine. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.
gregvancom thank you, I'll let you know how it turned out if I do get it fixed
Sucks for me I have a huge concrete porch block in but the slab fell back a little so it might be a little harder to do gonna he difficult trying to repair it all from inside the house tearing up the floors 😔 thank you for the helpful videos ❤️
You're welcome and I've been there before myself.
This is amazing - thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful!
Great suggestions that are perfect for my situation! Thanks
Glad it helped and thanks for watching.
6:28 what type of anchor would you use to secure the rim to the footing? Maybe drill down on it and hammer in an anchor once the new rim is in?
Did you find the answer to this?
Can you remove the rim from inside the crawlspace? I have a brick facade and it would be terrible to have to get through that to remove the rim joist.
It's not going to be easy and in some cases it's not going to happen, unless you remove the brick on the exterior. It can be done, I just don't have a simple method yet to provide you with.
Can this be replaced from inside the basement or crawlspace
As long as you have access, but this type of damage might require interior and exterior access.
Thanks for this video! I was trying to figure out how I was going to retrofit a 5.25" x 9.25" LVL beam sistered to the rim joist above an egress window that my contractor didn't put a header over and I finally realize that I'm going to have to cut the rim joist off, cut the floor/ceiling joists shorter, install the beam with joist hangers to the floor joists, then reinstall the rim joist. There's just no physical way to install a flush header beam from the inside only.
Glad I could help and thanks for letting us know it helped!
So i have a problem with my front door it wasn’t flashed under the threshold and my house i just bought didn’t have gutters so water has been splashing under the door rotting the door frame an a little bit of the sub floor an about a foot or so of the rim joist…problem is my deck it bolted to the rim joist how would i go about replacing Thats section without removing my deck? I plan on putting in a new door an frame plus replacing that peace of floor…the house is only 7years old 🤦♂️.. had a crappy inspector.
Bummer, but sometime you will need to remove and replace more stuff. Yours won't be as easy as if the deck wasn't there.
@@gregvancom yup im almost finished with it now, im also going to be replacing the front door an frame ive never done that but have decent carpenter skills an think i can handle it
I finally got it done..it definitely wasn’t a easy job but i got it all flashed an all the rot replaced with good treated wood should be better now..hopefully i dont have to do that ever again lol
Incredible info and diagrams
Glad you like them!
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
If just replacing the rim joist (no blocks), how do you secure it to the joists?
You can use metal hardware or angle your nails. Sometimes using angled metal brackets are going to be easier, because they can be attached to the blocking first, then install the blocking, then attach blocking to the joist.
How would I repair rotted plywood between the exterior wall floor plate and floor band , the mobile home was flooded
Email me some pictures of your problem and I'll see if I can provide you with some where to get started. You can get our email address at our website.
Great video
Thanks for the visit
Valuable info, thx
Glad you liked it and thanks for letting us know.
Awesome
Great video thanks!
You're welcome!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
ua-cam.com/video/sUZfDPdaRWY/v-deo.html here's a link to the video about how to replace damaged crawlspace rim joists that are running parallel in fully supporting wall framing and roof framing loads above.
Thank you
You're welcome
Thank you. Awesome and very informative video.
I always look forward to hearing the word awesome, thrown in with very informative and a thank you. You are absolutely welcome and thanks for watching.
I replaced 4ft. of the rimboard at my place, it was simple. Little nervous at first but theirs really no weight on it.
Yes it's definitely a little easier when you don't have to worry about a structural load above. Thanks for sharing.
My rim joists are 2 2x12's
Email me some pictures and I would be glad to take a look at it. You can get our email address at our website.
@@gregvancom I will, I just finished a 4ft section today. I got some crawlspace work to finish finishing that spot but I'll take some from inside and I'll get you some outside from the next section. I'm dealing with brick veneer exterior.
I didn't know Jordan Peterson was
a carpenter
Awesome video!
Thanks!