I am full of admiration, not just of your mechanical capability, but your presentation and linguistic skills are superb. Great informative and enjoyable videos.
Your videos are a pure joy to watch. You make a good speaker and you have a wonderful accent to your English. Thank you for your very entertaining videos!
Enjoying the Massey series. I live in dromore in northern Ireland about 3 miles from Harry Ferguson's farm was. Good to see one of his machines being cared for :)
Learning some great stuff from you. I have a FE-35 dual clutch dual brakes. Got her running but she's smokey. Needs new all sorts on it. Great watching. Thanks for the time you have put in.
Thank you for your vidéos ; i have a MF35 to renew and i'm not really good with the motor. But now i have understood many things to make a good job .I saw the vidéos three or for times and now i feel OK to make something on the motor . Your vidéos rest close to me !!!! Thanks from France.
Excellent video series Sir! I am very impressed by your level of English, and that you are so open to learning. Your first video called the rockers “tumblers”, corrected in this video to rockers for example. This is absolutely no criticism! The opposite in fact. Thank you for all your efforts in showing us how to do this job, which I personally will be doing next month. 😀👍👍👍
Hiii Steve -- back again to follow !!! First for everyone.....25% of mechanic success is the cleanliness because it opens the way to precision ....Mechanic best quality is been meticulous and good order and good sequence of work. (Steve is just that :)
While working at an International Harvester dealership years ago I worked under a man who was exempted from being drafted into WWII because the draft board considered him essential to keep our local farmer's machinery repaired as not many farm machinery parts were available during time. When I assembled my first engine under his guidance he told me to cleaning the top of the block and the head, the final wipe down was with rubbing alcohol. Then spray 2 coats of silver paint on both sides of the head gasket. I never asked him why he just said it's good insurance to seal everything up. A couple years ago I was reading somewhere (Smokestack &engine aids I think) about the use of silver paint on Aircraft engine head gaskets in WWII, they did this so they could reuse the head gaskets because of supply shortages in the pacific theater of war so I guessed that's where my mentor got the idea. I still spray paint them, especially on small air cooled lawn mower engines I reuse them all the time as long as they don't delaminate when the engine is torn down.
Jerry - first off, thanks very much for this piece of social history. I’m guessing the silver paint is that made using aluminium flakes and it’s this that gives the gaskets just that little bit more body for re-use as well as as a releasing agent of sorts... My father did his Nation Service in the British Army REME 1945-47. He served all over post WW2 Europe, servicing/repairing all kinds of vehicles in all conditions. One of his many tips was to explain grease as just oil in talcum powder and great to use & re-use on any non-metallic gasket, like valve covers. Gaskets so treated seem to release with a ‘snap’ and never stick/delaminate with the residue of the grease giving just a little bit more body to the gasket for re-use, a bit like your silver paint... Included in his many tales was using one of the heavier repaired trucks to ‘rope’ the Officers Mess, pull it off it’s temporary standing and tow it down the runway...
I have enjoyed your vids on this tractor it helped out with mine big time, After all the issues I had, It ended up being the fuel pump that was no good anymore, even after rebuilding it, New pump is quite expensive so I traded it away for a B250 international which is working fine I rebuilt just as much as you have here and that damn pump was the whole problem:( sadly
i used to repair a lot of those old tractors. I always replaced the long and short bolts when replacing the head as i found some of those bolts would stretch over time.
Txs and indeed that is very good practice.. In fact most manual will recommend it after the old bolds were inspected ( state and lenght). Txs for pointing that out.
I worked at an International Harvester dealership years ago, ( 1972 to 1992), and I must say we never replaced a head bolt unless it was rusted badly or showed other signs of damage, and we never had a failure of an old bolt. But Rod bolts were a different story.
Jerry Elven txs, i believe that this is common sense. We also check for damage/rust and lenght. If either one was of , we replaced it. As you stated. Later and more recently stretch bolds are used and those must be replaced , you cant re-use them
All science and engineering in America is done in metric. Only high school kids and shade tree mechanics use imperial. You should try and throw off the last vestiges of your Imperial overlords, lol. Adopt metric today!
I’m lucky enough (and old enough!!!) to completely understand both imperial and metric systems having spent my school days learning the cumbersome and difficult former, and the rest of my life using the simple, efficient and easy latter. Whilst anyone will use the system they are familiar with in preference because they are always reluctant to change, once you go metric you’ll never want to go back to imperial, believe me. In the case of old British or American machinery of course, you are stuck with the old style measurements, but in most cases there is a metric tool size that will fit at a pinch (literally). I have sets of sockets and spanners of both systems, so no problem either way. So for those of you in America, you shouldn’t look at metric as an ogre. It’s truly so much simpler and more straightforward system which you should try. 😀
Hi D3 i like your videos. do you know maybe where to buy that frost plug the cylinder head have in the middle ? and do all the standard engines take the same torck please? i have a fe35 1957.
Hi, frost plugs are very common, just measure the diameter and most stores can provided you with the correct size. This is nothing special. I would expect that all engines of the same type and cylinder head require the same torck, or that is at least what `i know about it .
The pushrods aren't that sensitive to wear, they aren't directly riding on the cam, they link to the cam followers and the cam followers are what has to be matched to the cam. But the pushrods may differ a bit in length so it's just a good habit to keep them in order.
D3Sshooter - just ran into your channel & Sub’d earlier today; enjoying everything about your channel & posts. On the subject of cleaning/flattening surfaces like cylinder head & block and wheels & hubs, etc. - I include Stanley knife (box-cutter) blades in my kit. I find it helpful to use varying degrees of sharpness, depending on the job. You can even get a ‘holder’, normally for scraping paint off glass... With regard to keeping any parts in order, like pushrods, head or any bolts, I push these through polystyrene meat trays (or fruit/veg. if you are vegetarian) before ultimately re-cycling these trays.
Hi I have just seen your videos a few years later.and well done and we'll explained.. Did you need to enlarge the head fuel chambers to aid starting as helps 23c engines . Yours has a cold climate head which are rare here unless you have fitted the extra heater plugs . .
Hi,just subscribed,really enjoyed this Fergy head series ,may I ask what part of the world you are living in?.Looking forward to more videos, meanwhile I will catch up with the back log . Regards Gerald swain.
Really enjoying this MF engine rebuild. I have one question. When you carried out all the work on the cylinder head repair why did you not check the valve seats for cracks and lap the valves. Thankyou!
Cast-iron stabilize with age (the younger the cylinder head the more courteous one must be when torqueing the bolts) The price of the big lathe is principal due to the age of the bench (are laying out in sun rain snow for years for the cast-iron to stabilize getting the tensions released ) I think Steve will agree ...?
Joe Tiller: I've also been advised to put a dab of silicone on the end of the bolts to ensure that cooling water does not escape up the stem of the head bolt. Seems a bit "bush" to me, but the engineer who advised this was a very experienced engine rebuilder.
How would waterless coolant go since it doesn’t freeze or boil and not pressurise when it heats up it won’t pressurise the cooling system with that loctite liquid metal and blow it out
Waterless - that's when you have a Deutz or VW Bug engine. All liquids expand when heated, so it would still be a pressurized system. And other liquids may come with other problems like damaged hoses and seals.
I would have removed those studs from the block and cleaned that block face properly because any crap stuck to it will make the head gasket fail. I would have also replaced ALL the Core Plugs at the same time because they corrode like crazy especially if the engine has been run without Antifreeze as it obviously has because that is what caused the engine to freeze and crack in the first place, prevention being better than cure every time for me but some people Never Learn and this is what happens, all that grief for about half a gallon of Antifreeze.
Push rods n block on lifters n lifters fit on cam? Wood u need to run engine to pump up lifters b for adjusting valves the reason some rockers r tight is lobe on cam is up
Yep, cam is low in the engine block ,driven by the crankshaft-cam chain. Rods rest on that cam and push the valves down through the rockers or thumblers... TXS
D3Sshooter - everything you already explained about torquing the head bolts was very clearly and well presented. I’d like a separate post on all the tips collected on best use of the torque-wrench. Your head bolt #4 did suggest some of the pitfalls to be overcome....
I am full of admiration, not just of your mechanical capability, but your presentation and linguistic skills are superb. Great informative and enjoyable videos.
Thank you for the comments
Your videos are a pure joy to watch. You make a good speaker and you have a wonderful accent to your English. Thank you for your very entertaining videos!
Thank you for your kind words... I try
Good video! I love old tractors and equipment. It's recycling at the ultimate level. Please continue!
Ralph Smull txs
Your patience is a wonderful thing. These old tractors are iron art pieces. You treat them as such. Bravo.
Enjoying the Massey series. I live in dromore in northern Ireland about 3 miles from Harry Ferguson's farm was. Good to see one of his machines being cared for :)
Phil McKibben TXS For the comments. Maybe i should take a trip to ireland.
D3Sshooter most definitely. Beautiful country.
Learning some great stuff from you. I have a FE-35 dual clutch dual brakes. Got her running but she's smokey. Needs new all sorts on it. Great watching. Thanks for the time you have put in.
Glad to help, Thanks for comments that is great FE-35
Thank you for your vidéos ; i have a MF35 to renew and i'm not really good with the motor.
But now i have understood many things to make a good job .I saw the vidéos three or for times and now i feel OK to make something on the motor .
Your vidéos rest close to me !!!!
Thanks from France.
The 23c has a special place in my heart ;-) very good video!
Thank you
Thanks again for the great content, your channel is the best.
Evening Steve. Can’t believe it’s passed midnight in the uk 🇬🇧 and I’m still watching your videos lol 😆 Love what your doing 👍🏻 Cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
txs for the comments I am still working on some projects
Excellent video series Sir! I am very impressed by your level of English, and that you are so open to learning. Your first video called the rockers “tumblers”, corrected in this video to rockers for example. This is absolutely no criticism! The opposite in fact. Thank you for all your efforts in showing us how to do this job, which I personally will be doing next month. 😀👍👍👍
Thank you very much!
Može li prevod na Srpsko hrvatski jezik
Have two 35 on our farm. Great tractors! This one is beutiful!
Txs for the comments, are they still in use ?
Thank you sir. Very nice restoration.
Hiii Steve -- back again to follow !!! First for everyone.....25% of mechanic success is the cleanliness because it opens the way to precision ....Mechanic best quality is been meticulous and good order and good sequence of work. (Steve is just that :)
Thanks for the info! and yes indeed...
Excellent job!
Great work thanks for sharing
Thanks
While working at an International Harvester dealership years ago I worked under a man who was exempted from being drafted into WWII because the draft board considered him essential to keep our local farmer's machinery repaired as not many farm machinery parts were available during time. When I assembled my first engine under his guidance he told me to cleaning the top of the block and the head, the final wipe down was with rubbing alcohol. Then spray 2 coats of silver paint on both sides of the head gasket. I never asked him why he just said it's good insurance to seal everything up. A couple years ago I was reading somewhere (Smokestack &engine aids I think) about the use of silver paint on Aircraft engine head gaskets in WWII, they did this so they could reuse the head gaskets because of supply shortages in the pacific theater of war so I guessed that's where my mentor got the idea. I still spray paint them, especially on small air cooled lawn mower engines I reuse them all the time as long as they don't delaminate when the engine is torn down.
Jerry Elven , great comments Jerry. Something i learned just now. Silver paint. Very interesting. Txs for sharing
Jerry - first off, thanks very much for this piece of social history. I’m guessing the silver paint is that made using aluminium flakes and it’s this that gives the gaskets just that little bit more body for re-use as well as as a releasing agent of sorts...
My father did his Nation Service in the British Army REME 1945-47. He served all over post WW2 Europe, servicing/repairing all kinds of vehicles in all conditions. One of his many tips was to explain grease as just oil in talcum powder and great to use & re-use on any non-metallic gasket, like valve covers. Gaskets so treated seem to release with a ‘snap’ and never stick/delaminate with the residue of the grease giving just a little bit more body to the gasket for re-use, a bit like your silver paint...
Included in his many tales was using one of the heavier repaired trucks to ‘rope’ the Officers Mess, pull it off it’s temporary standing and tow it down the runway...
Grait video now i know how to set my torque on my 35 thabk you very mutch
you are the Bob Ross of engines...
I have enjoyed your vids on this tractor it helped out with mine big time, After all the issues I had, It ended up being the fuel pump that was no good anymore, even after rebuilding it, New pump is quite expensive so I traded it away for a B250 international which is working fine I rebuilt just as much as you have here and that damn pump was the whole problem:( sadly
Thanks for the comment, good to see that you also preserve the past
@@D3Sshooter The B250 is a 1958 :) still works well.
i used to repair a lot of those old tractors. I always replaced the long and short bolts when replacing the head
as i found some of those bolts would stretch over time.
Txs and indeed that is very good practice.. In fact most manual will recommend it after the old bolds were inspected ( state and lenght). Txs for pointing that out.
I worked at an International Harvester dealership years ago, ( 1972 to 1992), and I must say we never replaced a head bolt unless it was rusted badly or showed other signs of damage, and we never had a failure of an old bolt. But Rod bolts were a different story.
Jerry Elven txs, i believe that this is common sense. We also check for damage/rust and lenght. If either one was of , we replaced it. As you stated. Later and more recently stretch bolds are used and those must be replaced , you cant re-use them
Never could learn those metric numbers !!! In the States, its pounds and ounces lol. Another great video thanks,Ken
Ken Harvey i know , same thing here but the reverse always need to calculate metric to imperial. Txs for your comment
All science and engineering in America is done in metric. Only high school kids and shade tree mechanics use imperial.
You should try and throw off the last vestiges of your Imperial overlords, lol. Adopt metric today!
Dave - you haven’t lived unless you’ve worked with BSF, BSW and BA screws....
I’m lucky enough (and old enough!!!) to completely understand both imperial and metric systems having spent my school days learning the cumbersome and difficult former, and the rest of my life using the simple, efficient and easy latter. Whilst anyone will use the system they are familiar with in preference because they are always reluctant to change, once you go metric you’ll never want to go back to imperial, believe me. In the case of old British or American machinery of course, you are stuck with the old style measurements, but in most cases there is a metric tool size that will fit at a pinch (literally). I have sets of sockets and spanners of both systems, so no problem either way. So for those of you in America, you shouldn’t look at metric as an ogre. It’s truly so much simpler and more straightforward system which you should try. 😀
Good series.
thanks
Uuuh
Tony Dewhurst
Always oil the threads of the head bolts to get a true tension without any bolt binding.
Thanks for the comments
Very perfect tution
Greetings from Germany!!!
Thank you and greetings from Vlaanderen
Hi D3 i like your videos. do you know maybe where to buy that frost plug the cylinder head have in the middle ? and do all the standard engines take the same torck please? i have a fe35 1957.
Hi, frost plugs are very common, just measure the diameter and most stores can provided you with the correct size. This is nothing special. I would expect that all engines of the same type and cylinder head require the same torck, or that is at least what `i know about it
.
The pushrods aren't that sensitive to wear, they aren't directly riding on the cam, they link to the cam followers and the cam followers are what has to be matched to the cam. But the pushrods may differ a bit in length so it's just a good habit to keep them in order.
Txs, and indeed...
D3Sshooter - just ran into your channel & Sub’d earlier today; enjoying everything about your channel & posts.
On the subject of cleaning/flattening surfaces like cylinder head & block and wheels & hubs, etc. - I include Stanley knife (box-cutter) blades in my kit. I find it helpful to use varying degrees of sharpness, depending on the job. You can even get a ‘holder’, normally for scraping paint off glass...
With regard to keeping any parts in order, like pushrods, head or any bolts, I push these through polystyrene meat trays (or fruit/veg. if you are vegetarian) before ultimately re-cycling these trays.
I had rebuilt 1967 Massey Ferguson 4cly backhoe engine. It has like 16 piston rings on each piston
Really, that is a lot... must be for sure not using any oil
@@D3Sshooter hi compression diesel
Hi I have just seen your videos a few years later.and well done and we'll explained..
Did you need to enlarge the head fuel chambers to aid starting as helps 23c engines . Yours has a cold climate head which are rare here unless you have fitted the extra heater plugs . .
TXS for the comments, no I did not. It came as it is
Hi,just subscribed,really enjoyed this Fergy head series ,may I ask what part of the world you are living in?.Looking forward to more videos, meanwhile I will catch up with the back log .
Regards Gerald swain.
Gerald Swain , hi gerald. Txs. I live in Belgium and you ?
Really enjoying this MF engine rebuild. I have one question. When you carried out all the work on the cylinder head repair why did you not check the valve seats for cracks and lap the valves. Thankyou!
TheRebelOne txs. I did check it. Just didnt capture it
@@D3Sshooter Thanks....😁
a couple of those valves looked like they were sunk in a little on the head when you had it upside down.
markam campbell yes indeed but still sufficiently
Hi terrific series - I would have annealed the head gasket ?. I saw your answer on lapping valves etc and maybe the answer is the same .....
Thanks for the comments, and yes that might be the same answer
Very nice thorough head assembly. 05OCT2018
TXS
I like your Belgian accent.
TXS Dave, its Flemish
D3Sshooter number 1
TXS
Does this change any from the 3cylinder Perkins? I have a blown head gasket.
The principle should be the same, timing is different .
Who made that torque wrench? I've never seen any other like that.
douro20 I belive its a Beta tool from some time ago
Imam ovakav traktor 1959 moze li prevod na srpski jezik,hvala
Why didnt you leave paper towels in cyl when sanding
Peter DeCarlo indeed very good point. In de video it did not show but i did. Txs for the comment
Cast-iron stabilize with age (the younger the cylinder head the more courteous one must be when torqueing the bolts) The price of the big lathe is principal due to the age of the bench (are laying out in sun rain snow for years for the cast-iron to stabilize getting the tensions released ) I think Steve will agree ...?
I do indeed\ Thank you for the comments
Good job maybe a little oil on the threads would help with the torque.
joe tiller txs joe. Yes indeed
D3Sshooter just a little film of oil between washer and nut/bolt head to avoid friction so the torgue is in the specs
Joe Tiller: I've also been advised to put a dab of silicone on the end of the bolts to ensure that cooling water does not escape up the stem of the head bolt. Seems a bit "bush" to me, but the engineer who advised this was a very experienced engine rebuilder.
Hi About the cracks, they can be welded with TIG and siliconbronce filler.
Zephyr Old txs. Good to know. If it brakes then i will give thst atry
Also stumbled upon this, good comments ua-cam.com/video/kzbcVb2UymA/v-deo.html
I from Brazil
How would waterless coolant go since it doesn’t freeze or boil and not pressurise when it heats up it won’t pressurise the cooling system with that loctite liquid metal and blow it out
Waterless - that's when you have a Deutz or VW Bug engine. All liquids expand when heated, so it would still be a pressurized system. And other liquids may come with other problems like damaged hoses and seals.
ehsnils it runs at a much lower pressure than water and has a higher boiling point at 190’c which means it lowers internal pressures
Should not all torque settings be measured “dry?”
Thanks for the comments, I believe so
Moze li prevod na hrvatski jezik
I would have removed those studs from the block and cleaned that block face properly because any crap stuck to it will make the head gasket fail. I would have also replaced ALL the Core Plugs at the same time because they corrode like crazy especially if the engine has been run without Antifreeze as it obviously has because that is what caused the engine to freeze and crack in the first place, prevention being better than cure every time for me but some people Never Learn and this is what happens, all that grief for about half a gallon of Antifreeze.
Thanks for the comment, indeed
Push rods n block on lifters n lifters fit on cam? Wood u need to run engine to pump up lifters b for adjusting valves the reason some rockers r tight is lobe on cam is up
Yep, cam is low in the engine block ,driven by the crankshaft-cam chain. Rods rest on that cam and push the valves down through the rockers or thumblers... TXS
Hello, can anybody tell me the correct piston ring gap orientation for this engine? Thanks :)
Let me check
@@D3Sshooter Thank you
the only thing you forgot is assembly lube
chapleaudick Good remark, however it was sprayed with lube. I should have shown it and stated it
This is the result of why not to put strait water in the cooling system with out a glycol mix and then let it sit outside and freeze
Indeed
Is that a perkins diesel?
paxtonspeed no its a leyland c23
I need a connecting rod from the Massey Ferguson fe 35 4 cylinders. you have it in stock, please return, thank you
I don't sorry
The extension changes t he torque some,if possible don't use extension.
TXS, and indeed that is a good point
D3Sshooter - everything you already explained about torquing the head bolts was very clearly and well presented. I’d like a separate post on all the tips collected on best use of the torque-wrench. Your head bolt #4 did suggest some of the pitfalls to be overcome....
Khank you
My Pleasure