So things to point out to people, put the tool through the tyre at a angle pointing away from the Rim and tape, I've seen people push it through and Peirce the Tubeless tape, causing the sealant to then disappear into the rim! I've also seen on a set of Hunt carbon wheels the tool get pushed and when it popped through it cracked the carbon rim underneath! Also before you use the worm the tool has a knurled section, use that to clean the hole up like a file, then insert the worm. You can use vulcanising glue on the worm to aid it's sealing ability, also when home if it's a large tyre killer hole, remove the tyre and use a Rema Tip top 3mm scooter/small motorcycle patch on the inside, this is permanent fix and can save tyres with hole that your little finger can almost poke through!
Excellent and informative video. I ride between 1200 to 1500 miles a month and most of it on a gravel bike that I run tubeless. I'll never go back to riding with tubes. I also do some lengthy adventure tours every year in remote places with rough road conditions. Tubeless has saved me countless times, especially when riding in areas plagued by nasty thorns. While the riders using clinchers seem to suffer incessant flats, the tubeless riders in our group generally escape unscathed. And when we do suffer a puncture, especially with thorns, fine shards, staples, etc. the repair solution is fast and simple. Tubeless compatible rims have improved immensely with the explosion in gravel bikes over the last five years. The biggest challenge imho, is simply getting comfortable with the process.
Looks really simple. I got a new road bike and it came with tubeless setup. I must say if the configuration was up to me I would go for traditional setup. But I'll give it a chance. As for the punctures, I really can't remember if I ever had a puncture with a big cut or hole (I'm a road bike rider). Always a small hole, sometimes also slow punctures, sometimes punctures so small that it was hard to locate them on the road. So I quess the sealant will do its work most of the time. As for the ride quality it is really comfortable compared to my old setup. And going from 25-28 size to the current 32 I thought like this is too big. No, it it's fine. On today's ride I rode on cobblestones and it felt like 50% more comfy compared to my previous bike.
Nice instruction David, thanks. One important note you skipped over; you should ream the puncture with the rough shaft before inserting the plug that roughens the edges of the puncture and helps with the bond. Also, in a situation where a gash occurs, I've had success with inserting multiple bacon strips. Not ideal, but it can get you home.
Where I live, 90% of my punctures are caused by glass shards on the road. These produce longish cuts, as opposed to circular holes. Unfortunately, in my experience, all tubeless repair techniques are useless in such cases and I need to get a new tire. Maybe this experience is very specific to living in a major city in Germany, where alcohol in glass bottles is sold freely on every corner, but I've never seen a UA-cam video that reflects that reality.
Not sure if it is helpful but I use decathlon patches on the inside of my tubeless tire and they work very well. (Full name: Bicycle Tube Repair Kit Btwin Self Adhesive 8pcs)
Word mate. I live in Berlin and you know that means glass shards practically everywhere. Cycle lanes are nasty as F, which is sometimes essential to use due to the extremely dangerous driver culture of racing each other to the next f@cking traffic light. Berlins roads and cycle lanes are up there with the worst I've experienced in 40 years cycling.
@@Dee-Ell once you head out towards the West of Berlin, away from the beer monsters it's lovely. My fave is cycling to Potsdam area, plenty of forests and so on. Take care stay safe. 👍
Three things: 1) put finger over hole as fast as possible to try prevent as much air escaping as possible to make easier to put in plug 2) take care not to push in plug tool too far or can puncture tubeless tape.. if you do that you are completely screwed! 3) if some air still escaping turn wheel so hole at bottom and shake to see if hole small enough now to sealant to seal
Anyone tried these Muc off plugs on a road tyre and pumped it back to 70-80 PSI ? My experience was the high pressure and thin road tyre will act like a squeezing blade as soon as you pump the pressure back up (CO2 or hand pump) where the puncture hole will squeeze in and cut these plugs off and start leaking again tried it multiple times. In contrast to MTB tyres these plugs would work as low pressure and thick tyres would not be able to turn the puncture into a squeezing blade.
Had the exact same issue. Went flying when I pumped it back to 80 PSI. I patched it from the inside instead. Works fine but now I wonder if I should have done that in the first place as the tool with the plug normally makes the hole quite a lot bigger...
@@STiPowered I used a Lezyne kit. I read about using regular tire patches on a BikeRadar post. Seemed legit enough to just try it out. I don’t know which are best but make sure you use the one which requires glue as it ensures a stronger bond. Afterwards let it rest for at least a few hours, preferably even a day so the vulcanisation has properly set. Works like a charm and saved me quite a lot of money considering tubeless tire prices. Keep it mind that it just may not be an instant roadside fix compared to the plugs. But they do keep your tires in a better condition imo.
I've done that 30 minutes ago on my gravel bike (a late night bike job).....I just added some more Stans sealant through the valve (core removed), and I'm hoping this works as I've had a niggly rear puncture on Gravelking SK's these past three rides....Hmmmm ?
Note that on some occasions the plug can come out when you pull the tool out. Perhaps the twisting stops that from occurring I don’t know. Some tools have a special washer like device on the fork shaft that slides down on to the tire that keeps the tool from pulling out the plug. It’s a small but important detail to watch for when purchasing this kind of tool. I had a tough time on a few occasions when the plug kept come back again.
you need to leave the plug in the tire for a minute or so for it to vulcanize to the tire. Once it does that, you should be able to withdraw the tool without pulling the plug out. The twisting motion can help a little. I learned this years ago doing puncture repairs on my LandCruiser.
Thanks for the video David. I'm curious about the twist of the tool in the tire - I've read that you should twist it, but I'm not sure what this accomplishes. Are you trying to break the tire worm inside the tire to release it from the tool? Or could you just pull the tool straight back out without twisting it, since (most? all?) of these tools are y-shaped, so the worm should be able to just slip off the end?
The main idea behind twisting it is just to ensure you don't pull the plug out with the tool which can happen if you're not careful. You can sometimes get away without twisting it, depends how tight the worm is fitting inside the tool really
I've used the Lezyne version of the tool and the bacon strip absolutely refuses to come free of the tool. I'm going to have to try again with this twisting technique, but so far I've been quite unsuccessful with this method and Stan's Dart. I'm now on to Silca's tubeless sealant which is supposedly SO good at blocking punctures, you can't add it through the valve stem...but that's another story. Twisting is a must as those sticky worms refuse to stay in the tire otherwise.
Great video as always. Only just gone tubeless on my new gravel bike. Bought dynaplug pro tool as the bike shop/mechanics all recommended it. Seems very straightforward, it’s nice and small, but am hoping I never need to use it. One thing they also recommended was put finger over hole and rotate so hole at bottom. Apparently the sealant will pool up down there with gravity and with your finger that may be enough to seal it. The other thing they said is you’ll not know about most punctures because the sealant will just fix them for you. Let’s see how that goes in practice if it happens! It’s something I really want to love but if I’m honest I’m a bit worried about all the mess especially if wanting to change tyres, and that it’s recommended you still carry an inner tube which kind of defeats the point a bit and that will be a very messy day getting a tube in there with all the sealant. Fingers crossed it just works! I guess the other thing is gravel tyres are maybe 30-40 psi so easier to seal.
It’s my 1st time using tubeless tire, but got a flat tire the other day. Do u need to changed & replaced the tubeless tire with a new one after u fix it with tire plug and would you add or use tire sealant also for better seal? Thanks!
I find the Stans Dart system far superior to the bacon stips or the Dyna plugs, once in they become a permanent repair as the sealant reacts with the rubber compound of the Dart to totally seal and repair the tyre.
wrong, the applicator is shitty design and material and breaks easily, do a quick search and you will see most people ditch Stans darts because of this
sacrificing TWO bar ends for a tiny tool is a bit much of a sacrifice on a minimalist road bike setup, especially if you have the DI charge port in there already. I find the dynaplug racer or micro a better tool to have in your back pocket, so you can fix the puncture before you lose all the pressure and sealant...
A very good instruction video dude. I've had to use these worms/ bacon strips on 5 different bikes in the past couple of years (3 MTB's, a CX and gravel bikes) and they work well. I just tend to trim the worm ends down a tad after getting home as yourself.....I cannot comment about road bikes as I still run tubes with my old Allez.....
I just put these bar ends on my bike, though the last time I tried to plug one of the holes with these the plug shot out. I am wondering if I put to much pressure on it as I was around 75PSI so next time I will go for a lower pressure.
David you made a small error. Ideally you are supposed to use that insertion tool, minus the bacon strip, by inserting it into the tire a bit deeper where that rough area is on the tool, then like a file you scrub it back and forth, this roughens up that hole so that the bacon strips will work a bit better. Of course, in doing that you have to make sure you don't hit the rim tape with the tool, if you can't do that without hitting the rim tape then forget it and just plug it like you did.
At 0:26, it looks like the hose takes up all the sealant in the syringe. BTW, has anyone accidentally gouged their rim’s spoke bed when inserting the tool?
I have tried this on my tubeless tire, and it works only for few days, as the "thing" goes inside the tire, and the puncture opens again. Maybe it is the quality of what I have bought.
I’ve used plugs several times and only once had a problem when the plug blew out after a few hundred metres. Otherwise, they’ve just stayed in place for months.
No. I had huge sidewall cut on a brand new Hutchinson Sector the second day of riding. It was c.10mm long spat out all the sealant. I purchased from eBay 'Radial Repair Patches' used for cars (45mm square) and some proper vulcanizing glue in a tin. Cost was c.£15.00. The repair is still going strong, although the cut did crept a little in the first week but is now stable. If I were to do it again I'd stitch the cut first before applying the patch. HTH
I stitched up a long slash in the sidewall of my MTB tire and coated it with vulcanizing glue on the inside and outside of the tire. I used a leather stitching awl with a bobbin attached (cheap on Amazon). The repair has held for many months of riding and saved me from having to replace an almost new tire.
I used a 'worm', 'bacon strip' on the edge of the tread (Sector 32) and it got spat out 1/4 mile further on. Maybe I didn't twist and pull, or a sidewall hole is more tricky to repair. I'd be interested to see how long the strip holds on the road and how it compares to a Dynaplug repair!
If your plug got spit out it means your hole is too big for your plug. You can solve that by using bigger plugs or multiple plugs. I once had to put 3 plugs in for it to seal. That was fun but it worked.
I guess like car tyres, if it’s too close to the edge then it may not be fixable…. You presumably need some rubber tread thickness, so towards the edge or sidewall, it may not work
Muc-Off products are average at best and they offer plenty of products that are absolutely not needed but Muc-Off are good at creating market demand by payed reviews. As for plugging the tires it is an acceptable long therm solution for MTB/DH tyres but should be considered only a temporary fix for fast road bikes, especially those with ultralight performance tires. You can literally cause death or serious injury by recommending plugging tyres as a permanent fix. Is this really worth those couple of pennies you get for this vid?
Hey David. I bought a plug kit, a co2 inflator kit and extra worms after watching your review. At checkout I entered your discount code and muck-off didn't recognize it so I did not get the promised 20% discount. What's up with that??? I did purchase from the EU, could that be the reason. Either way, I feel robbed.
Hi sorry to hear that I think the discount. Code expired quite a while ago as this video is quite old now, I will try and update the video to make that clearer sorry to hear your disappointment I understand your frustration
Nice marketing for Muc-Off. Maybe you could show us what happens when you inflate the tire to your riding pressure. My experience with road tubeless was awful. After 3 bars the plug just pops out. So this is just to get you home but forget about continuing your road ride. And another bonus you get with punched road tire is tubeless sealant all over you and your bike and this is not easy to clean. So if you're a road cyclist think twice before going tubeless. Monthly refilling of sealant is not so cheap. It is better to invest in good inner tubes like Tubolito (worth every cent), Continental, etc. Latex tubes are also fine but you will have to inflate it more often.
And I'm sure your mates won't mind waiting for you to put a new tube in on a cold/wet ride. I recently was on such a ride, picked up a front puncture and sealant did its job. No waiting around for me
Money and time?. Are you listening to yourself?😂😅 Which is quicker? This or.... taking off a wheel, removing the tire then removing the inner tube, pumping it to find the hole, patching it, remounting the tire and tube, putting the wheel back on the bike then pumping it.??
If only somebody invented a round hoop like item made of butyl or maybe latex to save weight and with that you could put inside and have no kind of leak in the tyre so you could ride home without worrying. Someone should really invent them...🤔
I've got the Muc-Off bar-end ones and they aren't that great. Poor build quality the metal is rough as hell and you still need a tool to remove them. Also, I found the worms flew out a number of times despite following their instructions. I've stopped using them now and have moved over to Dynaplug as I've heard great things about them.
Waste-of-time. Took me over an hour to repair a tiny hole, that gushed air. Finding-it was the first twenty minutes of agony. Would of taken five minutes with a clincher. Tubeless is for the rich, the tech-savvy, those that don't mind spending astronomical time installing/fixing. My Nukeproof and WTB tubeless took a vacation in the dumpster. A couple pair of Alex clincher rims, have given me a solid year of riding with no flats. Amen.
wow this so silly. just stop. this is so much work for such a small miniscule advantage only someone racing woudl require. Cant wait to throw out my tubelss tires and put tubes back in. riding road, gravel and down hill for decades and can only count on one hand the number of times i had a flat on the road/trail. takes 5 mins to put a sticky patch on a tube, inlfate and go on with your day.
I have fixed two sidewall tears with the Stans Dart plug system no problems at all, in fact I am still riding the same tyre approx 3000kms later. You can double up on the darts if necessary.
So things to point out to people, put the tool through the tyre at a angle pointing away from the Rim and tape, I've seen people push it through and Peirce the Tubeless tape, causing the sealant to then disappear into the rim! I've also seen on a set of Hunt carbon wheels the tool get pushed and when it popped through it cracked the carbon rim underneath!
Also before you use the worm the tool has a knurled section, use that to clean the hole up like a file, then insert the worm. You can use vulcanising glue on the worm to aid it's sealing ability, also when home if it's a large tyre killer hole, remove the tyre and use a Rema Tip top 3mm scooter/small motorcycle patch on the inside, this is permanent fix and can save tyres with hole that your little finger can almost poke through!
Top tips. That is exactly what I do. This video is just an advert for the Muc Off tool.
Yes bar end plugs don’t require hunting in saddle bag for these, but you still need to get that multi tool to release the bar end tool
LMAO
Lol
Just where are you keeping your tools? At home?
Excellent and informative video. I ride between 1200 to 1500 miles a month and most of it on a gravel bike that I run tubeless. I'll never go back to riding with tubes. I also do some lengthy adventure tours every year in remote places with rough road conditions. Tubeless has saved me countless times, especially when riding in areas plagued by nasty thorns. While the riders using clinchers seem to suffer incessant flats, the tubeless riders in our group generally escape unscathed. And when we do suffer a puncture, especially with thorns, fine shards, staples, etc. the repair solution is fast and simple. Tubeless compatible rims have improved immensely with the explosion in gravel bikes over the last five years. The biggest challenge imho, is simply getting comfortable with the process.
buying an entire new set of tire tools/pumps is also just silly. tubes require a cheap pump, sticky patch and cheap tire levers. nothing else.
Looks really simple. I got a new road bike and it came with tubeless setup. I must say if the configuration was up to me I would go for traditional setup. But I'll give it a chance. As for the punctures, I really can't remember if I ever had a puncture with a big cut or hole (I'm a road bike rider). Always a small hole, sometimes also slow punctures, sometimes punctures so small that it was hard to locate them on the road. So I quess the sealant will do its work most of the time. As for the ride quality it is really comfortable compared to my old setup. And going from 25-28 size to the current 32 I thought like this is too big. No, it it's fine. On today's ride I rode on cobblestones and it felt like 50% more comfy compared to my previous bike.
Nice instruction David, thanks. One important note you skipped over; you should ream the puncture with the rough shaft before inserting the plug that roughens the edges of the puncture and helps with the bond. Also, in a situation where a gash occurs, I've had success with inserting multiple bacon strips. Not ideal, but it can get you home.
Used this type of product on my 4x4 for the last 20ys and they work!
Where I live, 90% of my punctures are caused by glass shards on the road. These produce longish cuts, as opposed to circular holes. Unfortunately, in my experience, all tubeless repair techniques are useless in such cases and I need to get a new tire. Maybe this experience is very specific to living in a major city in Germany, where alcohol in glass bottles is sold freely on every corner, but I've never seen a UA-cam video that reflects that reality.
Not sure if it is helpful but I use decathlon patches on the inside of my tubeless tire and they work very well.
(Full name: Bicycle Tube Repair Kit Btwin Self Adhesive 8pcs)
@@tonym6561 Indeed. And another useful alternative are Rema Tip Top Universal Patches 35mm used with their glue! Super easy, strong and reliable:)
Word mate. I live in Berlin and you know that means glass shards practically everywhere. Cycle lanes are nasty as F, which is sometimes essential to use due to the extremely dangerous driver culture of racing each other to the next f@cking traffic light. Berlins roads and cycle lanes are up there with the worst I've experienced in 40 years cycling.
@@mokujinsan9946 Wow! I had no idea it was that bad. Makes me appreciate the cycle paths in my city more.
@@Dee-Ell once you head out towards the West of Berlin, away from the beer monsters it's lovely. My fave is cycling to Potsdam area, plenty of forests and so on. Take care stay safe. 👍
Great work, I've only used (and always loved) the DYNAPLUG versions.
Three things:
1) put finger over hole as fast as possible to try prevent as much air escaping as possible to make easier to put in plug
2) take care not to push in plug tool too far or can puncture tubeless tape.. if you do that you are completely screwed!
3) if some air still escaping turn wheel so hole at bottom and shake to see if hole small enough now to sealant to seal
Great points!!!!!
The twisting motion can't be emphasized enough. It creates a lump that helps keeping the worm in place and not coming out with the tyre pressure.
Hey Dave. Speaking of plugs, that was a brilliant one;)
Anyone tried these Muc off plugs on a road tyre and pumped it back to 70-80 PSI ? My experience was the high pressure and thin road tyre will act like a squeezing blade as soon as you pump the pressure back up (CO2 or hand pump) where the puncture hole will squeeze in and cut these plugs off and start leaking again tried it multiple times. In contrast to MTB tyres these plugs would work as low pressure and thick tyres would not be able to turn the puncture into a squeezing blade.
Had the exact same issue. Went flying when I pumped it back to 80 PSI. I patched it from the inside instead. Works fine but now I wonder if I should have done that in the first place as the tool with the plug normally makes the hole quite a lot bigger...
@@Jaandemacht3 what patch/glue did you use? I can't find tubeless compatible patches..
@@STiPowered I used a Lezyne kit. I read about using regular tire patches on a BikeRadar post. Seemed legit enough to just try it out. I don’t know which are best but make sure you use the one which requires glue as it ensures a stronger bond. Afterwards let it rest for at least a few hours, preferably even a day so the vulcanisation has properly set. Works like a charm and saved me quite a lot of money considering tubeless tire prices. Keep it mind that it just may not be an instant roadside fix compared to the plugs. But they do keep your tires in a better condition imo.
I would also add more sealant to the tire after plugging the tire since much of the sealant could have been forced out at the time of the puncture.
I've done that 30 minutes ago on my gravel bike (a late night bike job).....I just added some more Stans sealant through the valve (core removed), and I'm hoping this works as I've had a niggly rear puncture on Gravelking SK's these past three rides....Hmmmm ?
@@stevesnailfish
I made tested Stan's
I punctured my tyre 3 times with a thorn, it couldn't even fix that 😂 it just squirted out
Wolftooth Encase is a full in Bar solution. Includes chain breaker.
Note that on some occasions the plug can come out when you pull the tool out. Perhaps the twisting stops that from occurring I don’t know. Some tools have a special washer like device on the fork shaft that slides down on to the tire that keeps the tool from pulling out the plug. It’s a small but important detail to watch for when purchasing this kind of tool. I had a tough time on a few occasions when the plug kept come back again.
you need to leave the plug in the tire for a minute or so for it to vulcanize to the tire. Once it does that, you should be able to withdraw the tool without pulling the plug out. The twisting motion can help a little. I learned this years ago doing puncture repairs on my LandCruiser.
Thanks for the video David. I'm curious about the twist of the tool in the tire - I've read that you should twist it, but I'm not sure what this accomplishes. Are you trying to break the tire worm inside the tire to release it from the tool? Or could you just pull the tool straight back out without twisting it, since (most? all?) of these tools are y-shaped, so the worm should be able to just slip off the end?
The main idea behind twisting it is just to ensure you don't pull the plug out with the tool which can happen if you're not careful. You can sometimes get away without twisting it, depends how tight the worm is fitting inside the tool really
I've used the Lezyne version of the tool and the bacon strip absolutely refuses to come free of the tool. I'm going to have to try again with this twisting technique, but so far I've been quite unsuccessful with this method and Stan's Dart. I'm now on to Silca's tubeless sealant which is supposedly SO good at blocking punctures, you can't add it through the valve stem...but that's another story. Twisting is a must as those sticky worms refuse to stay in the tire otherwise.
The twisting of bacon strip creates a mushroom inside tire so I can't come out
Great video as always.
Only just gone tubeless on my new gravel bike.
Bought dynaplug pro tool as the bike shop/mechanics all recommended it. Seems very straightforward, it’s nice and small, but am hoping I never need to use it.
One thing they also recommended was put finger over hole and rotate so hole at bottom. Apparently the sealant will pool up down there with gravity and with your finger that may be enough to seal it.
The other thing they said is you’ll not know about most punctures because the sealant will just fix them for you.
Let’s see how that goes in practice if it happens!
It’s something I really want to love but if I’m honest I’m a bit worried about all the mess especially if wanting to change tyres, and that it’s recommended you still carry an inner tube which kind of defeats the point a bit and that will be a very messy day getting a tube in there with all the sealant.
Fingers crossed it just works!
I guess the other thing is gravel tyres are maybe 30-40 psi so easier to seal.
It’s my 1st time using tubeless tire, but got a flat tire the other day. Do u need to changed & replaced the tubeless tire with a new one after u fix it with tire plug and would you add or use tire sealant also for better seal? Thanks!
I find the Stans Dart system far superior to the bacon stips or the Dyna plugs, once in they become a permanent repair as the sealant reacts with the rubber compound of the Dart to totally seal and repair the tyre.
wrong, the applicator is shitty design and material and breaks easily, do a quick search and you will see most people ditch Stans darts because of this
sacrificing TWO bar ends for a tiny tool is a bit much of a sacrifice on a minimalist road bike setup, especially if you have the DI charge port in there already. I find the dynaplug racer or micro a better tool to have in your back pocket, so you can fix the puncture before you lose all the pressure and sealant...
I've been considering this tool. Are they as good as they look?
A very good instruction video dude.
I've had to use these worms/ bacon strips on 5 different bikes in the past couple of years (3 MTB's, a CX and gravel bikes) and they work well. I just tend to trim the worm ends down a tad after getting home as yourself.....I cannot comment about road bikes as I still run tubes with my old Allez.....
Thank you very much for this video!
What are the chances of stabbing the rim tape with the prong?
look pretty high judging by the amount of force David used - until he changed to a flatter angle.
yeah you do need to be really careful about doing that, I wasn't making it easier for myself with the wheel on my lap and trying to film it too
Happened to me with the same tool.
Great video! I now need one 🙂
I just put these bar ends on my bike, though the last time I tried to plug one of the holes with these the plug shot out. I am wondering if I put to much pressure on it as I was around 75PSI so next time I will go for a lower pressure.
Tubeless aint good for high pressure tires
What a fantastic tool
Good instruction. Thank you
What do you use to inflate the tire? Doesn't a CO2 tank freeze the sealant?
Do these work on a 50cc scooter tyre?
Great video, did you see me walking home last week? I had bacon strip plugs & the kept getting spat out of the tire.
I havent switched over as yet, but im interested! I assumed that you would remove the tyre, repair it with a internal patch kit and put it back.
Is it suitable for 6ft height
The discount isn't working, any idea?
can you use on tubulars
Anyone have experience using the permanent plugs like the Lezyne Pro Plugs? they appear to be robust enough to use for the life of the tire.
Those Pirelli tires have much better puncture protection than the Conti 5000's
I have never successfully fixed a puncture using these, I love the idea of tubeless, but it's not for me.
David you made a small error. Ideally you are supposed to use that insertion tool, minus the bacon strip, by inserting it into the tire a bit deeper where that rough area is on the tool, then like a file you scrub it back and forth, this roughens up that hole so that the bacon strips will work a bit better. Of course, in doing that you have to make sure you don't hit the rim tape with the tool, if you can't do that without hitting the rim tape then forget it and just plug it like you did.
At 0:26, it looks like the hose takes up all the sealant in the syringe. BTW, has anyone accidentally gouged their rim’s spoke bed when inserting the tool?
I have tried this on my tubeless tire, and it works only for few days, as the "thing" goes inside the tire, and the puncture opens again. Maybe it is the quality of what I have bought.
I’ve used plugs several times and only once had a problem when the plug blew out after a few hundred metres. Otherwise, they’ve just stayed in place for months.
I am not sure if I would cut it right away, will probably leave the beacon as is, and only cut after reaching home
If the tire is flat how are you supposed to insert the plug?
Dynaplug, better... by miles
You can't store the tools in the bar end if you run Di2.
So nervous for your rim tape 😂
Thanks for the video! In your opinion is a sidewall puncture the end of the tire?
Nope
No. I had huge sidewall cut on a brand new Hutchinson Sector the second day of riding. It was c.10mm long spat out all the sealant.
I purchased from eBay 'Radial Repair Patches' used for cars (45mm square) and some proper vulcanizing glue in a tin. Cost was c.£15.00.
The repair is still going strong, although the cut did crept a little in the first week but is now stable. If I were to do it again I'd stitch the cut first before applying the patch.
HTH
I stitched up a long slash in the sidewall of my MTB tire and coated it with vulcanizing glue on the inside and outside of the tire. I used a leather stitching awl with a bobbin attached (cheap on Amazon). The repair has held for many months of riding and saved me from having to replace an almost new tire.
I used a 'worm', 'bacon strip' on the edge of the tread (Sector 32) and it got spat out 1/4 mile further on. Maybe I didn't twist and pull, or a sidewall hole is more tricky to repair.
I'd be interested to see how long the strip holds on the road and how it compares to a Dynaplug repair!
If your plug got spit out it means your hole is too big for your plug. You can solve that by using bigger plugs or multiple plugs. I once had to put 3 plugs in for it to seal. That was fun but it worked.
I guess like car tyres, if it’s too close to the edge then it may not be fixable…. You presumably need some rubber tread thickness, so towards the edge or sidewall, it may not work
Discountcode doesn't seem to work for the EU website. 😒
Other than that it's a good video.
Muc-Off products are average at best and they offer plenty of products that are absolutely not needed but Muc-Off are good at creating market demand by payed reviews. As for plugging the tires it is an acceptable long therm solution for MTB/DH tyres but should be considered only a temporary fix for fast road bikes, especially those with ultralight performance tires. You can literally cause death or serious injury by recommending plugging tyres as a permanent fix. Is this really worth those couple of pennies you get for this vid?
I think some call it “bacon strips”? But since the muc-off version is black, not quite sure.
Hey David. I bought a plug kit, a co2 inflator kit and extra worms after watching your review. At checkout I entered your discount code and muck-off didn't recognize it so I did not get the promised 20% discount. What's up with that??? I did purchase from the EU, could that be the reason. Either way, I feel robbed.
Hi sorry to hear that I think the discount. Code expired quite a while ago as this video is quite old now, I will try and update the video to make that clearer sorry to hear your disappointment I understand your frustration
Nice marketing for Muc-Off. Maybe you could show us what happens when you inflate the tire to your riding pressure. My experience with road tubeless was awful. After 3 bars the plug just pops out. So this is just to get you home but forget about continuing your road ride. And another bonus you get with punched road tire is tubeless sealant all over you and your bike and this is not easy to clean. So if you're a road cyclist think twice before going tubeless. Monthly refilling of sealant is not so cheap. It is better to invest in good inner tubes like Tubolito (worth every cent), Continental, etc. Latex tubes are also fine but you will have to inflate it more often.
How about inflating it to see how well the repair went?
I have this mucoff kit and tried it about 5 times, I never managed to seal a hole with it.
One word .... DYNAPLUG
Find the plugs never work to seal any punctures. Moved now to foam inserts in the tyres
Tubeless aint that good on high pressure road bikes tires
That bike tyre looks like an inner tube 😂
Pay attention to where the spoke holes are so you don't accidentally puncture the rim tape
Hi, I shared a bike tire change video. very detailed video. it may be useful for you
I always end up making the hole bigger when I stick the plug in.
Another nice solution for a problem that does not exist. Just stick to tubes and you will save quite a bit of money and time. Sorry I am old school!
And I'm sure your mates won't mind waiting for you to put a new tube in on a cold/wet ride. I recently was on such a ride, picked up a front puncture and sealant did its job. No waiting around for me
Money and time?. Are you listening to yourself?😂😅 Which is quicker? This or.... taking off a wheel, removing the tire then removing the inner tube, pumping it to find the hole, patching it, remounting the tire and tube, putting the wheel back on the bike then pumping it.??
If only somebody invented a round hoop like item made of butyl or maybe latex to save weight and with that you could put inside and have no kind of leak in the tyre so you could ride home without worrying.
Someone should really invent them...🤔
Nah that’ll never catch on, don’t be daft 🤪
Where are people who literally know how to do this and come for a pat on the back by “correcting” the video?
“Actually..”
I've got the Muc-Off bar-end ones and they aren't that great. Poor build quality the metal is rough as hell and you still need a tool to remove them. Also, I found the worms flew out a number of times despite following their instructions. I've stopped using them now and have moved over to Dynaplug as I've heard great things about them.
You forgot to ream the puncture hole.
or just change a tube :-)
"sharp pointy thing"
😂
Waste-of-time. Took me over an hour to repair a tiny hole, that gushed air. Finding-it was the first twenty minutes of agony. Would of taken five minutes with a clincher. Tubeless is for the rich, the tech-savvy, those that don't mind spending astronomical time installing/fixing. My Nukeproof and WTB tubeless took a vacation in the dumpster. A couple pair of Alex clincher rims, have given me a solid year of riding with no flats. Amen.
Not a great example. puncture like this would seal without a plug. What usually doesn't seal is a cut, not a puncture.
You're probably right thinksimon, I was just simply trying to do a simple demonstration of how you use the tubeless repair kits
Dyna Plugs.
By the time i get to the puncture the tyre will be flat…
Xanadu,
Your code doesn’t work
Just tried to plug my 25mm but it came out due to the pressure….. shitty glass sliced the tyre. Now will try to glue from inside.
I got same problem with electric scooter. I don’t know what to try
What a faff 😂 I’ll stick with tubes and a patch. Simple.
wow this so silly. just stop. this is so much work for such a small miniscule advantage only someone racing woudl require. Cant wait to throw out my tubelss tires and put tubes back in. riding road, gravel and down hill for decades and can only count on one hand the number of times i had a flat on the road/trail. takes 5 mins to put a sticky patch on a tube, inlfate and go on with your day.
how about if there is sidewall tear on those tubeless tires? it happened to me once and end up with throw those new fresh tires🥲
I have fixed two sidewall tears with the Stans Dart plug system no problems at all, in fact I am still riding the same tyre approx 3000kms later. You can double up on the darts if necessary.
shoulda boult that tool. mine won't let me thread the worm so i had to mush it in there. i'm a total novice