The EASY Way to Remove Broken Upper Rear Shock Bolts from a Wrangler TJ Project 2004 Jeep TJ
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
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I quickly realized that dealing with broken upper rear shock bolts was something that most TJ owners are going to have to deal with. I was glad I was not alone. Internet searches revealed tons of people asking the same question as I: "How to remove broken shock bolts on a TJ"! Sometimes you can't put enough PB Blaster on these things to get them to break free without snapping!
I read all of the tips and advice, watched a bunch of videos... and tried a lot of things. This video, however, demonstrates what I found to be the absolute EASIEST way to get those pesky bolts out with a minimal expense. You don't need a huge air compressor and an air chisel. You don't need a special little palm hammer. With a Dremel and a single punch and hammer, you can knock this out! (Pun intended.)
Most people probably have a Dremel, but you may or may not have the 90 degree adapter. Here's a list of the products I used to make this simple job happen:
Dremel 3000: amzn.to/2xFYi09
Dremel 575 Right Angle Attachment: amzn.to/2juXDrU
Dremel EZ456 1-1/2-Inch EZ Lock Wheels: amzn.to/2x2YbLb
Stanley FMHT75077 FatMax Punch Set: amzn.to/2x8SMld
2-Pound Engineer Hammer: HF or amzn.to/2x8rkUu
Here's my video on removing the TJ gas tank...again, an easy task with the right approach!
• DETAILED Gas Tank Remo...
Here's the Bostitch Palm Nailer that I tried and found no value in for this project:
BOSTITCH PN50 Mini Impact Nailer: amzn.to/2whnYjj
And finally, here's the air hammer and chisel bit set I tried. Again... I found it not necessary for this project: Ingersoll Rand Air Hammer 114GQC: amzn.to/2y4xWkj
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Dremel comes in handy for car work way more often than people think. 👍
This was several weeks of aggravation for me. Tried a number of ideas before just giving up and lifting the body up like you did here. I wish I had sooner! I was able to get them off with the air hammer method.
On another learning curve for the TJ. Replaced shocks at a major tire sales location. The rear shocks had been replaced earlier in the year by the previous owner. This time the tech told me the mount up top is out of alignment causing the last set to vibrate out causing metal to metal contact. It was only noticeable on wash board roads. This week dedicated to figuring out this issue. Thanks for the video, very informative. I changed my wiring kit from your video, turned out awesome. My wife and I had a day of quality time doing that.
I can totally relate to this! Lifted my '99 TJ couple of years ago and broke seven of the eight shock bolts! Tried drilling them out but what ended up working for me was to getdie grinder with a cutoff wheel and grind the wheel down on something until it would fit up in the slot and then I could easily cut the bolts on the other side without lifting the body up. I learned this when lifting my son's 98 but did mine the hard way!for anybody considering a body lift it would be a great time to do that while lifting the Jeep and replacing shocks! Great video thanks for sharing!
I have a 2002 wrangler it’s seen tons of mud, water and rock. My aftermarket rear shocks have been on since 2006 and I was dreading changing them in fear of snapping and I searched and searched for easiest way to remove those rusty bolts. Luckily I didn’t snap them. I sprayed them everytime I would walk in the garage with Kroil. For 5 days. With a long extension they broke free and came out perfectly. But this video woulda been my resort if I had snapped them.
Kroil oil for the win!
@@jackel440Ahole hahahahaha
I appreciate the video, but dropping a fuel tank and unbolting the frame from the body is hardly what i't call 'the easiest way'.
2000 TJ - original bolts. All 4 broke, removal of the tank was easy enough, I avoided jacking the body up by cutting from the bottom with the Dremel 90 degree attachment. An 1-1/2 inch cutting disc is just big enough. Feeding bolts from top to install shocks. Easy lock discs are great but get several. Thanks for the help.
penetrating oil and or heat work so much better allow time i did over two days with pb blaster no real problems had to use a little heat on the front lower bolts but the rears no real problems. 2006 wrangler x all factory and i lts been up in the rust belt of NH since 2008 spent first 2 yrs in florida has just under 106k got it at 44k 2010
Great video. I just removed the tank and used the dremel attachment. It’s a long process but it works. Thanks again for the money saving video!
Just did this install yesterday, easiest thing I found was leave the gas tank on, then using a Dremel cutoff wheel, sneak it up where the rear shock goes and cut the two bolts. After you get about half way through use bolt or punch and just knock the welds loose. 15 minutes for each bolt, done.
John L. - perfect method- used dremel with 36” flexible adaptor w/ 1 1/2 cut off disc...
Key- like u said - sneak it up where shock goes... flexible adapter made it more friendly, from above.
I call BS on 15 minutes.
I was able to get two of mine out clean, a 3rd one that snapped I managed to get out without damaging the weld-nut. But the last one had to be cut out in exactly the same manner.
Later, when I dropped my tank to install a new skid I was able to go in there and grind out the remaining weld filler and really clean up the whole area. I wire-wheeled the rust off the top of that nasty crossmember plate. Down went some primer and paint. Then I thought to drill out six .25" drain holes in the curved rear lip of that member.
Once those were deburred and *sort of* counter sunk from the top side I primed and painted those, too.
A lot of muddy water gets trapped up there, and the mud keep the metal wet for extended periods. At least the worst of the water can get out now. No issues since. It is still very clean and rust-free up there three years later.
Oh, I almost forgot to mention: I was able to remove the three remaining weld-nuts, then weld in four new nuts that are Grade 8, and I replaced the bolts with Grade 8 ones of the same size, with flanges. To prevent the disappointment of buying hardware from Home Depot I got all these from McMaster-Carr.
I used anti-seize and then spray painted the exposed threads to keep the water off the metal. If I ever need to do this again, my threads have been sealed off from the elements and the paint can be removed by chasing them with a die.
Great video. We seem to think alike. I look forward to seeing your other videos. Liked and subbed!
Considering where this bolt is located and the design in general, this is the easiest way to mitigate it. It allows you to use whatever hardware you want to go forward and install the pinbar eliminator kit. Get some HD hardware, the PBE, and you'll never have to worry about getting access to this welded nut again. There were actually dudes cutting through their floor s in the cab to gain access. Yes, pretty easy, but where is the intelligence in the process? Now you have an unnecessary hole in your sheet metal, with an access point for the elements. Bravo OP.
Thanks for the vid, you just convinced me that theres no way in hell I'm gonna try to do the rear shocks on my sons '98 TJ. His is so badly coroded that theres no way those bolts are coming out, and that Jeep is so badly rusted up, frame and all, that once you got to, " dropping the tank" and "Unbolting the body mounts", I knew, that aint happening. Looks like he's gonna ride those old rotted shocks till that thing dies....LOL Thanks for the vid....
Did the same thing only used the air hammer with lots of will power and no quit. Plus resharpening the bits. Did use a grinder with a large wheel as well so it would reach. Definitely drop the gas tank! It's a must.
omg... remove the tank, unbolt the body... yeah, sounds REAL easy.
Yeah I found it that really really easy work on it
Time consuming is all
No crap....
I just cut two access holes from the inner tub. Zip/drill out and put new 5/16th bolts from above. The reason was I had one snap and three others strip the really rusted heads. So I had to punch them down from above. Paint patch and paint.
Where exactly are the cuts?
Pneumatic Jack Hammer worked for me. Just have to get some leverage on it.
Wow. It's amazing how different people use the word "easy". 😅
Best "how to" video Ive ever seen, and I mean I could see what you were doing! Great video!!
Robert Desrosiers thanks man!
ugghhh. not easy but it worked. I've done the air chisel before and it destroyed the shock mount and we had to make new ones and weld them in and sandwich a DIY steel plate in there. Got a rusty 2004 TJ now. Dropping the gas tank and lifting the body are going to be a nightmare with broken bolts and body mounts...... I do dig the 90 degree Dremel
I ordered Grade 10.9 Hex Flange Bolts that have Yellow Zinc coating with partial and Coarse Threads from BelMetric.
02 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L (99-07 Chrysler Automobiles)
▪︎ M12x1.75x80mm (Top bolts)
▪︎ M12x1.75x70mm (Bottom Bolt)
Also picked up M12x1.75 Conial locking Nuts, Grade 10, coarse thread, flanged hex head, smooth flange head.
Hope this helps you
Hmm, seems easier to hole saw the body floor and go in from the top.
one thing I may try is loosening the body bolts on the other side to get access to the shock bolts, apply PB or WD40, hopefully won't break them off
Great video for tj owners 👍🏼
I'm about to attempt this in a few days. Question. Do I have to take out/loosen the front (engine bay area) bolts as well?
Ya Nice vid. I work in dirt driveway.Now I gotta find a shop.I cant do that.Got a 02 TJ from PA.
05 from Pa. this is going to suck
I am a little late but have a question. What did you use to replace the bolts? Deep into replacing my rear shocks and found myself laughing at a few of your statements. "aggressive welder" to which I can totally relate.
If the shocks have been taken off before this shouldn't be a problem right? I have a 99 TJ and we live in NC so it has no rust at all
I see mine were replaced with yolk mounts so i just got unbolt the horizontal through bolt at the top of shock
Wow great vid CPO! By far the best on youtube for this job. Perfect angles to see exactly whats going on.
Next time try this ( TianTac Tungsten Carbide Rotary Burr Set 10pcs, Carving Burr Bits, with 3mm Shank 6mm Grinding Head for Wood & Stone Carving, Steel Metal Working) it’s like $13 bucks for dremel helped me with ceased track bar driver bolt, front shock lower bolts 3/4. After watching this video think ima need em on the rear. Any idea where I can get new bolts for shocks?
I snapped both off on one side, undid body bolts heated the tops of the other two and came out just fine
My fix for the issue was to install a nut plate. I was able to get the old nuts out easier than you had (I have 1" body lift which gave me enough for a chisel to use through the wheel well).
My nut plate is basically 2 nuts also spot welded onto a 1.5" wide 1/4" plate. The plate has holes drilled through as well. I used new bolts (female hex) and matching nuts. The plate is upside down and is long enough to be held outside the frame to secure the bolts in the shocks ball pin mount.
You have to use female hex head bolts due to the frame location relative to the outside bolt. A regular hex head can work, but your socket won't fit the bolt head with it being so close to the frame.
Ya so I just use my breaker bar for those top nuts with a new 6 point socket and they just snap off. Takes no time at all.
So you put the socket over the tacked on bolts from the topside?
I like that idea.
Did putting your arm thru the frame and body make you nervous?
Excellent video !
I thank you it worked awesome I thank you
All of these techniques require grinding, punching, and knuckle busting. I abandoned the old top mounts altogether and here's how you do it. I replaced the rear shocks on an 03 Rubicon by drilling through the jeep frame, inserting a new stainless carriage bolt through the frame, aligned with the old top mounts, placed a spacer on the inside to align the shock, slid the top of the shock on the carriage bolt, and torqued a washer and nut on. It is the easiest fix. No knuckle busting, no gas tank removal, no cut off tools or punches. Just take a socket and shear off the original bolts connecting the top of the shocks to the bowtie connector and abandon that terribly engineered mess and remount your shocks to the frame as they should have been designed to start with.
Thanks for the comment! Sounds like a good approach!
Sounds brilliant. Did you take a picture Tim?
I will try to post photos or video explaining.
Thanks Tim, I think it would help people. I follow you, and I have actually purchased the hardware, When the job is done, I will take some pics and post, along with part numbers. I am getting shocks with ring mounts on both sides.
Here's my video ua-cam.com/video/CxmtgAhbKQs/v-deo.html
You know what's even easier? Cut a 1.25" hole in the floor over the shock and Dremel the nut off directly. Then put a rubber body plug in that hole when your'e done. Took me < 15 minutes to do it this way vs hours of trying to drill it out, or FFS removing the gas tank.
I just did this but my holes are more like 1”3/4 by 2 1/2” long. Did you do two holes? One for each bolt? There was no other way considering the outside volt is partially under the vertical sheet metal of the wheel well.
@@wrenchingandwheeling1589 Mine was only the inboard bolt on the passenger side, so the 1.25" hole worked fine for me. The outboard bolt came out OK thankfully.
Seems to me that just torching the nuts would expand them so the bolts will turn and not break since you have the body up in the air anyway.
Great video, this saved my ass.
what about an oscillating tool with a metal blade I have a Dremel lol this really helped i hope
What kind of time frame to do this?
I would not call this the easiest way by a country mile.
PB blaster makes a difference
I soaked them in PB Blaster daily for a week. Didn't seem to matter.
Great job!
1" bodylift don't fail me now I own a TJ 2003 snapped one head off and stripped the others shocking isn't it
Do you have to remove the gas tank or does it just make it easier
I'd say it makes it easier, but I wouldn't want to do any cutting with it in there. Some people wrap the tank in wet towels for that.... I just would rather get it clear out of the way for the room!
o3djeeps [ OVERCLOCK3D Jeeps ] I did it without dropping the tank because I thought the tank would be a real pain. I've dropped the tank since and I agree with cpo. It would have been worth it here.
Man am I lucky I have alot of rust under there and all I did was spray some penetrating oil and left it for a day. The next day they came off with no problem.
Cant even get a socket on em ?
Thank u
put a wrench on the nut and twist. they break right off
looks like the nut is sticking up far enough to get vise grips on it and twist it until it breaks !
why not just cut it through the opening where the shock pops through?
That's how I do it, with a right angel grinder with the same bit he use's.
Whatever works!
Bad thing is I have a Chevrolet Cheyenne pickup
the not so funny joke, if you decide to lift the body and undo the body bolts these can brake too...
remove tank? hahahhahhahhaha and this whole thing just to use a dremel from above? hahahhahah
YOU LOOK LIKE A ACTOR FROM REVENGE OF THE NERDS LOL
I need to replace my shocks. Fuck
The easy way🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Lol @easy