Nice.. I just purchased one that has low hours on it, the intake don’t have the extra bosses for bigger blower, I would have to drill and tap, now it’s time build.. I uploaded a video from the Pate swap meet where I got it.. I’m redoing a 1986 C10 Stepside.. check it and follow the build if you want.. great content you got here 😄
Good question ... I'm not entirely sure. Although, the manufacturer would likely give a recommendation as part of the maintenance schedule. Pretty sure this one has over 100kmi on it and I don't think it's been rebuilt.
How freely should the blower spin when not installed and hand turning the pulley. Seems mine has a slight catch in one spot at each revolution. I just bought it second hand today, so I’m trying to figure out what’s acceptable and what needs attention. Thanks
It should spin freely, smooth, and quiet (by hand). If something is catching, you'll need to closely inspect the case and the rotor seals, maybe even the bearings and/or rotor gears. Worst case, you may have to do a rebuild.
I honestly don't remember. Sorry. If yours isn't thick enough, you can now measure how much more you need and add that to the thickness of the current spacer to get the measurement for a new one.
My 144 blower was sitting up side down for about 1 year on the shelf. When I install it made a rattling noise. I suspect it no oil in it. I wonder if the rattling sound go away when I put 75w/90 full sentetic gear oil.. i am so in a stress..
Lots of reasons it could be rattling ... none of them good. First thing would be to remove the blower and give it a thorough inspection. It's possible that you could be sending metal shavings down the intake.
I still need to dial in my tuning and every application is different, of course. The rule is that boosted engines will need to run a colder plug and a reduced gap. A 174 on a (guessing) 302 should give around 10psi so you may want to try 2 steps colder than NA and 0.025 gap. Remember, this is just an opinion so please do some homework for your specific application as timing, mixture, etc. are just as important. 🤘
Nice.. I just purchased one that has low hours on it, the intake don’t have the extra bosses for bigger blower, I would have to drill and tap, now it’s time build.. I uploaded a video from the Pate swap meet where I got it.. I’m redoing a 1986 C10 Stepside.. check it and follow the build if you want.. great content you got here 😄
Subbed. Sweet C-10. Always loved the old square bodies and I'm also originally from the Dallas area. Represent! 🤘
I’ll get this thing finished up soon
I bet you'll finish yours first
Roughly how long in between rebuilds on these style blowers? Always wanted one
Good question ... I'm not entirely sure. Although, the manufacturer would likely give a recommendation as part of the maintenance schedule. Pretty sure this one has over 100kmi on it and I don't think it's been rebuilt.
How freely should the blower spin when not installed and hand turning the pulley. Seems mine has a slight catch in one spot at each revolution. I just bought it second hand today, so I’m trying to figure out what’s acceptable and what needs attention. Thanks
It should spin freely, smooth, and quiet (by hand). If something is catching, you'll need to closely inspect the case and the rotor seals, maybe even the bearings and/or rotor gears. Worst case, you may have to do a rebuild.
I've got the 144 as well my spacer on the crank to short what length is yours if you remember.
I honestly don't remember. Sorry. If yours isn't thick enough, you can now measure how much more you need and add that to the thickness of the current spacer to get the measurement for a new one.
My 144 blower was sitting up side down for about 1 year on the shelf. When I install it made a rattling noise. I suspect it no oil in it. I wonder if the rattling sound go away when I put 75w/90 full sentetic gear oil.. i am so in a stress..
Lots of reasons it could be rattling ... none of them good. First thing would be to remove the blower and give it a thorough inspection. It's possible that you could be sending metal shavings down the intake.
And I have a 174 on my SBF was curious as to what spark plug the heat rating in the gap you are running
I still need to dial in my tuning and every application is different, of course. The rule is that boosted engines will need to run a colder plug and a reduced gap. A 174 on a (guessing) 302 should give around 10psi so you may want to try 2 steps colder than NA and 0.025 gap. Remember, this is just an opinion so please do some homework for your specific application as timing, mixture, etc. are just as important. 🤘