I like what you said about fall renovation. My lawn has a lot of weed growth. I am relatively new at taking care of a lawn. I really do not know where to even start. I want my lawn to look beautiful, but I need help.
I just found your vlog, I have a backyard run to do, I had to kill off my Fescue due to the drought about 8 years ago, the backyard is a weed fest. I do have wild Bermuda and lots of weeds, I have already done a 200 sq ft renovation back there with Bermuda Tif Tuf, even though the sun sets back there and it gets extremely hot part of the backyard is a Kaleidoscope of shade. I have treated the weeds with vinegar but I will need to finish off with Roundup or such. The area is 800 sq ft, typical small So. Cal backyard in the IE Inland Empire Hot for short. Zone 9A I have signed up. What I figured out not to go by the labels on the bags for pre and post emergents. Simply put it only rains in the winter here, first rain Nov. around Thanksgiving then try until Christmas and then dry until Feb. that is our rainy season. All weeds start on the first rain and complete take off in Feb. One of dominate weeds in Fox Tails. I think it is our cities mascot.
Read from a turf guy on Facebook Bermuda group that poa can start to germinate in August. I also read on the bag of Barricade label that I could overseed with perennial rye 6 weeks after application. Every video I have watched on UA-cam says you CAN NOT have both a pre-emergent and rye. So, I will be putting out Barricade earlier than anticipated! Then overseed in October. Will see how it goes.
Today I just dethatched, overseeded, raked up some dead spots from grubs and seeded heavy and put peat moss over. Just got done adjusting my sprinklers to run 4 times a day daily for 15 min. Looking forward to see the progress in a few weeks
ohh man! You are on fire! That sprinkler action may be overkill though; I wouldn't do an hour a day for very long but still; that yard is going to look so much better by Sept :)
Great video. I live in southern Indiana and overseeded 2 weeks ago. Some areas are fine but others very thin. I covered with EZ straw, I can’t really add seed because of the straw. Any recommendations? Thanks.
I just had some trees removed and the stumps ground. There's a ton of mulch in the holes that I'm working on removing. I built a soil sieve that's working well. I think I'm going to burn the mulch and cover it with dirt to make an ash/biochar mix, then till it into the dirt, with a few bags of topsoil and manure. I'm hoping that'll balance out the acidity of whatever woodchips remain, and the manure will slowly release some nitrogen to replace whatever the decay of the wood ties up. I'm going to plant grass there and overseed the rest of my lawn at the same time. I'm ordering the seed tomorrow. I just hope it doesn't take forever to get here.
I wouldn't be suprised if you need a bit of lime in there to offset the ash but plan on the whole area settling low over the next couple years as all that wood decomposes and compresses down.
yup yup yup, I am starting the prep to totally re-do my largest parkway strip(upgrading from a lower end Rye grass to a nicer Rye seed that I had success with last year on an adjacent strip) the big issue is that last year I had some tree trimming done where they drove a bucket lift crane over it and ruined the smoothness of the soil level, and actually there is more dirt there than I need as it has a 'crown' up so I can remove higher spots and bumps and still have extra to fill lower ruts - knowing me and other distractions popping up, this could take a couple weeks of on and off work once started before I even get to a final surface for seed - so for right now it is important to try and get many other smaller fall yard tasks done and out of the way(so I'm not pulled off the big job to tend to other stuff) as I'll really need to focus on just that one area when I begin to rip into it anyway, I was just thinking about hours of sunlight in the fall for starting grass seed and how it might slow the amount of daily growth vs also how it could actually help with keeping moisture in the soil with less drying time - ultimately "the sun will come out tomorrow, tomorrow...🎶" as in hopefully the young grass plants will be more ready to take advantage of longer days starting next spring .....the bare dirt I seeded last year did very good this summer(we had lots of rain!) as now it is nearing one year old and almost mature enough to trust it(altho I'll do a quick lite overseed for its first birthday this fall) so hopefully the weather is good this fall(horribly hot and dry for too long last fall) and the next year for my latest project to develop the same ...of course I expect to get more flak from the neighbors and dog walkers, for again making another bad looking mess out of my lawn(s) and I guess it is hard for them to understand and see that it can take years to establish a nice high performing lawn - but I have clearly found you get much better(and easier) success when you don't try to do it all at once, and just focus on one area at a time - altho this appears as a never ending project
one lawn space at a time is always the way to go even if it looks like a never ending project. 2-3 years from now people will only see the end and they will quickly forget about all the projects one after another and you'll be proud of each spot for all the special attention you gave it. As for the rye strip, just remember that if you are killing the older rye and replacing with newer and better rye then don't be afraid to run a dethatcher over it deep and heavy for a long time to scrape up enough dirt to level everything back out. Rye fills in so fast, you can do it all in short order if you want to. Good luck with it and as always enjoy the process as best as you can
I love this video because so many people say to do a fall overseed in like sept oct, and personally I’ve had better luck the earlier I start as long as temps are below 80, thank you for your channel!!
yep, the later I've ever started a reno the harder the project got. Last year I planted my KBG here in SoCal around august 1, and it still took just fine even with temps around 90. It's weird considering how baby grass can easily die off in those temps when planted in late May to early June but by the time an august sowing turns into baby grass the sprouts seem to tolerate it better. Thank you for watching!
@@TurfMechanic yes!!! One thing I am running into though is I can’t seem to find the line between not enough water for the seed and it dies, or too much water and I have fungus eat all my new grass even with azoxy/prop
here's a tip I've never made a video on, nor have I heard anyone else say in any video. When the seed goes down, give it it only a spritz of water every 15-30 minutes. If you're using a sprinkler just one min every 15-20 min until dusk. but only for that first day or two. Imagine putting seed down on Saturday morning. hand water very frequently for those first two days or use the sprinkler system very frequently but only for about a minute at a time those first two days, then starting monday and for the rest of the week go to 1-3 watering sessions per day, but make sure to water at least once per day around dusk. Doing this you'll saturate the seed in the first day or two and then the remainder of the week you'll use less water overall and the seed should sprout just fine, hopefully with less disease.
those cooler temps are awesome this time of year because the soil is still near peak. Lawns tend to love warm soil and cooler air. I love Fall, just a month away!
The smart guys like Ryan Knorr (and the TM) are always hinting and preparing for fall Reno around early Aug. Looking forward to your fescue renovation in the backyard. I would probably lean toward original Marathon if you are seeding. It's a little more forgiving of shade than Marathon II. It will still probably look pretty nice shortcut 1 1/2 to 2".
I've currently got a bucket of Marathon 1 TTTF seed in my garage right now. It's a 40/60 mixture of Baja III & Hubbard 87. You are right, it's the more shade hardy version of Marathon. That stuff is going in the dog kennel first. I'll have to overseed that often due to the dogs. The rest of the yard should be easier but I'll gradually transition the yard to full fescue through regular use of fusilade/triclopyr this fall and early season next year.
@@TurfMechanic Let me know if you have any questions. My dad sodded our house back in the 80s with Marathon. It was beautiful until kikuyu and Bermuda took it about 10 years later. I was just a kid back then though, I didn't know anything about selective herbicides. Sometimes I like to go to my local Armstrong Nursery on Sat. morning. The Southland Sod guy delivers pallets of of Marathon 1 and 2. They even delivered some St. Aug, that too is a gorgeous dark green lushy turf.
I know you maybe busy and hope to get your feedback on this, I live in the gulf coast part of Florida I am not knowledgeable on the grass type that I have. I am dealing with some weeds of course and working always on this issue . I will put a link at the end of these questions of my work in progress. I have approximately in total front and back 2100 sq feet. I am not sure what grass seed I can use to overseed my lawn through the winter. It has been suggested by neighbor's to use 2 types of grass seeds Perennial Rye Grass seed or Annual Rye Grass seed both right now are equally fair priced to buy I get more seeds for the Annual price wise or if there another option it would be great to here your thought, also if you have an idea for pre emergent that will keep crab grass and weeds to a minimum to throw down with the overseeding any suggestion or thoughts are greatly appreciated please and thank you
My plan is to start my fall over-seeding on 09/02/2024 because the weather forecast for my area (Burnsville, MN) shows that the temps will be under 80s around 09/02/2024. This might probably change and the temps could go down sooner and if that happens, I will start the over-seeding sooner than 09/02/2024. I plan to spray tenacity when putting down my Ryegrass. But I do have some weeds on the front lawn now. If I spray weed B gone or Weed Stop Concentrate, how long will such application last? I googled around and came across different answers. Will putting down a weed killer application now prevent the grass seed from germinating when I put it down on 09/02/024? Should I use a weed puller tool instead and forget using any weed killer except tenacity just to be safe? I am doing just the front lawn. I would be detaching, aerating and top dressing with soil to level the lawn before I put down the seed. I also plan to pre-germinate the seeds in a 5-gallon bucket about 4 days before I put it down to shorten the germinating process since my frost date could be in earlier October. This is also the first time I am over-seeding in my life. I have been only maintaining the lawn after buying my first home 5-years ago.
I'm in the transition zone in Northern California. Temperatures have been in the 100's almost all August and first half of September. It's just dropped into the 80s, and i plan to seed on Monday. It's a full renovation seeding dirt. You have me worried. Should I have seeded earlier even though the temps were high?
You live in one of the exception areas, I'm going to guess you may live near Redding? It's like an oven there so there no need to seed in Aug...however I wouldn't wait much longer because regardless of temps, days start getting pretty short by Halloween and beyond. Those seedlings need as much sun as they can get to mature prior to winter. Unless you are in the higher elevations NE of redding or Sacramento you probably won't have snow cover which also makes a later seeding possible.
**Your help please. I’m an unusual case because I’m in Phoenix. Currently still getting 110degrees as a high. I normally overseed perennial rye in October. If I overseed with Texas Kentucky blue instead. Could I start sooner? And could it handle 100-105 degrees in September months?
I'm assuming you mean Kentucky Bluegrass? If so I'd probably wait until temps are under 100 even if it takes you all the way till Oct. It will still germinate fairly quick with high soil temps that time of year but that type of grass doesn't like those triple digit numbers even if you keep it well watered. Assuming you have full sun then it should look pretty nice all winter for you in Phoenix :)
I bought tryclopor for creeping charley,and tenacity for crabgrass.can you mix the 2 and spray at same time?i want to dethatch,airate,overseed 1st week in September.
yeah, for sure mix them and do it, everything should be fine. The plan you have looks solid to me. Most herbicides will say to wait at least a couple weeks after spraying to drop seed so you are even accommodating that with your plan.
I think 9/1 is probably still optimal for most people, it's still late summer. As for temps, not really. Most soil temps around the country peak in late July and even if you have a hot august by sept 1 your soil temp swings should already start dropping. Just think, if you are overseeding Sept 1 then the sprouts will be up around 9/8. I guess if you are expecting temps close to triple digits at that time I'd wait a bit but even 90 degree days in sept should be fine for overseeding cool season grasses.
temps below 80 is a good way to look at it for some people but you can't only wait for that number because it may take you too far into the fall. When I lived in Oregon we'd have 90's into Sept and then a light freeze 5 weeks later. The longer you go the less sun you have. I seeded KBG last year and let it grow through 90 degree temps in August and it worked fine. I wouldn't just look at temps for my cue to start renovation.
Just as savagerider said mixing in fine fescue can help for the heavy shade but I might also suggest transitioning your fescue to a low cut fescue and mixing in specific TTTF varieties that are more tolerant to shade or have higher overall NTEP evaluations for turf quality. You may simply have a poorly performing old variety of fescue back there. If moisture is too bad then maybe you need to improve drainage in the area with an annoying digging project. :)
For those of us in socal that live more inland than you, we have more 90+ degree days coming all the way into October. Could you speak a little more on that? Your proximity to the coast buffers you a little more than people inland.
sure, this could be a full video, I probably should devote more time to this topic too because SoCal is so unique compared to other areas of the country. As you move inland temps really start climbing as you know. Fescue is a lot less common inland although parts of SB county gain some elevation making fescue an option due to it's cold weather tolerance over winter. Essentially a place like Victorville could grow fescue fall through Spring and probably let it go brown in the summer. If you had Bermuda, Buffalo, or Kikuyu inland where temps get up to 100 or more then renos like leveling or sod placement or plugging can still take place in August and Sept but I probably wouldn't aerate unless you could be sure to get a lot of water on the lawn before and after aeration. If you want to apply PE or overseed annual rye over bermuda then timing of everything is a little different than the majority of the country. I could skim over a ton of different scenarios but if you want to summarize your specific scenario and your general location in socal I could give you better guidance.
@@Flybert there could be 25 degrees differents from the cost to inland and only 10-20 miles away in the Bay area and it lasts in to October some times November.
@@TurfMechanic I’m in eastern Los Angeles county in zone 10b with kikuyu/common Bermuda and clay soil. I’m reel mowing at 1.2” and looking to keep the cut low for playing soccer in the front yard. My goal is to do a little leveling and get the grass to thicken up some more. I should probably sign up for your consulting after I get a soil test in.
@@TurfMechanicI’m in San Luis Obispo County…yesterday 8/10/24 it was 105 at my house 15 miles inland and 63 at the coast…normal occurrence in late July to mid August. My tall fescue gets mowed by deer and they trim it a little too close. Watering 15-20minutes twice a day has kept it alive (along with a monthly fertilizer application.) I expect temps to taper off but weird things happen in October or November when we could see 90-100 temps for a week. Side note: 80 percent of my yard is just dead. Not watered. It used to be 100% but I created green space in an area 35x80 in the back yard and plan to xeriscape the rest. All part of fire mitigation as there are about 20 oaks on the downward sloping back half of my (almost) acre of land. Big fan of your page as you’ve helped me a ton so far!
I've got plenty of space, July and August are slow times for lawn care as most people don't know exactly what to do during the heat. Im just going to assume you are close to Covina (east la county) forecast there is low 90's for the next two weeks with no rain full sun and overnight low temps in the high 60s. Your Bermuda should be able to push for a while without ever seeing extreme temps. We could talk specifics in a consult call but depending on your distaste for the kikuyu you could start pushing the kikuyu out this year while thickening up your bermuda. You have plenty of time left to level too, could probably do two rounds of it if you wanted to.
My complete guide to Fall, don't miss this: turfmechanic.com/fall/
I like what you said about fall renovation. My lawn has a lot of weed growth. I am relatively new at taking care of a lawn. I really do not know where to even start. I want my lawn to look beautiful, but I need help.
I just found your vlog, I have a backyard run to do, I had to kill off my Fescue due to the drought about 8 years ago, the backyard is a weed fest. I do have wild Bermuda and lots of weeds, I have already done a 200 sq ft renovation back there with Bermuda Tif Tuf, even though the sun sets back there and it gets extremely hot part of the backyard is a Kaleidoscope of shade. I have treated the weeds with vinegar but I will need to finish off with Roundup or such. The area is 800 sq ft, typical small So. Cal backyard in the IE Inland Empire Hot for short. Zone 9A I have signed up.
What I figured out not to go by the labels on the bags for pre and post emergents. Simply put it only rains in the winter here, first rain Nov. around Thanksgiving then try until Christmas and then dry until Feb. that is our rainy season. All weeds start on the first rain and complete take off in Feb. One of dominate weeds in Fox Tails. I think it is our cities mascot.
Read from a turf guy on Facebook Bermuda group that poa can start to germinate in August. I also read on the bag of Barricade label that I could overseed with perennial rye 6 weeks after application.
Every video I have watched on UA-cam says you CAN NOT have both a pre-emergent and rye. So, I will be putting out Barricade earlier than anticipated! Then overseed in October. Will see how it goes.
Today I just dethatched, overseeded, raked up some dead spots from grubs and seeded heavy and put peat moss over. Just got done adjusting my sprinklers to run 4 times a day daily for 15 min. Looking forward to see the progress in a few weeks
ohh man! You are on fire! That sprinkler action may be overkill though; I wouldn't do an hour a day for very long but still; that yard is going to look so much better by Sept :)
If ur looking for more work my lawn can use u😂
Great video. I live in southern Indiana and overseeded 2 weeks ago. Some areas are fine but others very thin. I covered with EZ straw, I can’t really add seed because of the straw. Any recommendations? Thanks.
I just had some trees removed and the stumps ground. There's a ton of mulch in the holes that I'm working on removing. I built a soil sieve that's working well.
I think I'm going to burn the mulch and cover it with dirt to make an ash/biochar mix, then till it into the dirt, with a few bags of topsoil and manure. I'm hoping that'll balance out the acidity of whatever woodchips remain, and the manure will slowly release some nitrogen to replace whatever the decay of the wood ties up.
I'm going to plant grass there and overseed the rest of my lawn at the same time. I'm ordering the seed tomorrow. I just hope it doesn't take forever to get here.
I wouldn't be suprised if you need a bit of lime in there to offset the ash but plan on the whole area settling low over the next couple years as all that wood decomposes and compresses down.
@@TurfMechanic Thanks for the tips!
yup yup yup, I am starting the prep to totally re-do my largest parkway strip(upgrading from a lower end Rye grass to a nicer Rye seed that I had success with last year on an adjacent strip) the big issue is that last year I had some tree trimming done where they drove a bucket lift crane over it and ruined the smoothness of the soil level, and actually there is more dirt there than I need as it has a 'crown' up so I can remove higher spots and bumps and still have extra to fill lower ruts - knowing me and other distractions popping up, this could take a couple weeks of on and off work once started before I even get to a final surface for seed - so for right now it is important to try and get many other smaller fall yard tasks done and out of the way(so I'm not pulled off the big job to tend to other stuff) as I'll really need to focus on just that one area when I begin to rip into it
anyway, I was just thinking about hours of sunlight in the fall for starting grass seed and how it might slow the amount of daily growth vs also how it could actually help with keeping moisture in the soil with less drying time - ultimately "the sun will come out tomorrow, tomorrow...🎶" as in hopefully the young grass plants will be more ready to take advantage of longer days starting next spring .....the bare dirt I seeded last year did very good this summer(we had lots of rain!) as now it is nearing one year old and almost mature enough to trust it(altho I'll do a quick lite overseed for its first birthday this fall) so hopefully the weather is good this fall(horribly hot and dry for too long last fall) and the next year for my latest project to develop the same
...of course I expect to get more flak from the neighbors and dog walkers, for again making another bad looking mess out of my lawn(s) and I guess it is hard for them to understand and see that it can take years to establish a nice high performing lawn - but I have clearly found you get much better(and easier) success when you don't try to do it all at once, and just focus on one area at a time - altho this appears as a never ending project
one lawn space at a time is always the way to go even if it looks like a never ending project. 2-3 years from now people will only see the end and they will quickly forget about all the projects one after another and you'll be proud of each spot for all the special attention you gave it. As for the rye strip, just remember that if you are killing the older rye and replacing with newer and better rye then don't be afraid to run a dethatcher over it deep and heavy for a long time to scrape up enough dirt to level everything back out. Rye fills in so fast, you can do it all in short order if you want to. Good luck with it and as always enjoy the process as best as you can
I love this video because so many people say to do a fall overseed in like sept oct, and personally I’ve had better luck the earlier I start as long as temps are below 80, thank you for your channel!!
yep, the later I've ever started a reno the harder the project got. Last year I planted my KBG here in SoCal around august 1, and it still took just fine even with temps around 90. It's weird considering how baby grass can easily die off in those temps when planted in late May to early June but by the time an august sowing turns into baby grass the sprouts seem to tolerate it better. Thank you for watching!
Guess I'm starting next week 😅
you'll be so happy by Sept that you got it done in Aug; good luck and happy reno
@@TurfMechanic yes!!! One thing I am running into though is I can’t seem to find the line between not enough water for the seed and it dies, or too much water and I have fungus eat all my new grass even with azoxy/prop
here's a tip I've never made a video on, nor have I heard anyone else say in any video. When the seed goes down, give it it only a spritz of water every 15-30 minutes. If you're using a sprinkler just one min every 15-20 min until dusk. but only for that first day or two. Imagine putting seed down on Saturday morning. hand water very frequently for those first two days or use the sprinkler system very frequently but only for about a minute at a time those first two days, then starting monday and for the rest of the week go to 1-3 watering sessions per day, but make sure to water at least once per day around dusk. Doing this you'll saturate the seed in the first day or two and then the remainder of the week you'll use less water overall and the seed should sprout just fine, hopefully with less disease.
I started a reno/kill in July and seeded yesterday.
oooo, you should be looking awesome by Sept! Well done!
We definitely had cooler temps for the first week in August in the Bay area.
those cooler temps are awesome this time of year because the soil is still near peak. Lawns tend to love warm soil and cooler air. I love Fall, just a month away!
Hell yea baby I been waiting on this one
Waiting time is finally ending; you've got the green light! :D
The smart guys like Ryan Knorr (and the TM) are always hinting and preparing for fall Reno around early Aug.
Looking forward to your fescue renovation in the backyard. I would probably lean toward original Marathon if you are seeding. It's a little more forgiving of shade than Marathon II. It will still probably look pretty nice shortcut 1 1/2 to 2".
I've currently got a bucket of Marathon 1 TTTF seed in my garage right now. It's a 40/60 mixture of Baja III & Hubbard 87. You are right, it's the more shade hardy version of Marathon. That stuff is going in the dog kennel first. I'll have to overseed that often due to the dogs. The rest of the yard should be easier but I'll gradually transition the yard to full fescue through regular use of fusilade/triclopyr this fall and early season next year.
@@TurfMechanic Let me know if you have any questions. My dad sodded our house back in the 80s with Marathon. It was beautiful until kikuyu and Bermuda took it about 10 years later. I was just a kid back then though, I didn't know anything about selective herbicides. Sometimes I like to go to my local Armstrong Nursery on Sat. morning. The Southland Sod guy delivers pallets of of Marathon 1 and 2. They even delivered some St. Aug, that too is a gorgeous dark green lushy turf.
I will definitely hit you up, thanks! Also good to know when the sod delivery shows up, makes it easier to get the fresh stuff. :)
I know you maybe busy and hope to get your feedback on this, I live in the gulf coast part of Florida I am not knowledgeable on the grass type that I have. I am dealing with some weeds of course and working always on this issue . I will put a link at the end of these questions of my work in progress. I have approximately in total front and back 2100 sq feet. I am not sure what grass seed I can use to overseed my lawn through the winter. It has been suggested by neighbor's to use 2 types of grass seeds Perennial Rye Grass seed or Annual Rye Grass seed both right now are equally fair priced to buy I get more seeds for the Annual price wise or if there another option it would be great to here your thought, also if you have an idea for pre emergent that will keep crab grass and weeds to a minimum to throw down with the overseeding any suggestion or thoughts are greatly appreciated please and thank you
Mesotrione (tenacity) for the crabgrass when seeding
My plan is to start my fall over-seeding on 09/02/2024 because the weather forecast for my area (Burnsville, MN) shows that the temps will be under 80s around 09/02/2024. This might probably change and the temps could go down sooner and if that happens, I will start the over-seeding sooner than 09/02/2024.
I plan to spray tenacity when putting down my Ryegrass. But I do have some weeds on the front lawn now. If I spray weed B gone or Weed Stop Concentrate, how long will such application last? I googled around and came across different answers. Will putting down a weed killer application now prevent the grass seed from germinating when I put it down on 09/02/024?
Should I use a weed puller tool instead and forget using any weed killer except tenacity just to be safe? I am doing just the front lawn. I would be detaching, aerating and top dressing with soil to level the lawn before I put down the seed. I also plan to pre-germinate the seeds in a 5-gallon bucket about 4 days before I put it down to shorten the germinating process since my frost date could be in earlier October.
This is also the first time I am over-seeding in my life. I have been only maintaining the lawn after buying my first home 5-years ago.
I'm in the transition zone in Northern California. Temperatures have been in the 100's almost all August and first half of September. It's just dropped into the 80s, and i plan to seed on Monday. It's a full renovation seeding dirt. You have me worried. Should I have seeded earlier even though the temps were high?
You live in one of the exception areas, I'm going to guess you may live near Redding? It's like an oven there so there no need to seed in Aug...however I wouldn't wait much longer because regardless of temps, days start getting pretty short by Halloween and beyond. Those seedlings need as much sun as they can get to mature prior to winter. Unless you are in the higher elevations NE of redding or Sacramento you probably won't have snow cover which also makes a later seeding possible.
**Your help please. I’m an unusual case because I’m in Phoenix. Currently still getting 110degrees as a high. I normally overseed perennial rye in October. If I overseed with Texas Kentucky blue instead. Could I start sooner? And could it handle 100-105 degrees in September months?
I'm assuming you mean Kentucky Bluegrass? If so I'd probably wait until temps are under 100 even if it takes you all the way till Oct. It will still germinate fairly quick with high soil temps that time of year but that type of grass doesn't like those triple digit numbers even if you keep it well watered. Assuming you have full sun then it should look pretty nice all winter for you in Phoenix :)
I bought tryclopor for creeping charley,and tenacity for crabgrass.can you mix the 2 and spray at same time?i want to dethatch,airate,overseed 1st week in September.
yeah, for sure mix them and do it, everything should be fine. The plan you have looks solid to me. Most herbicides will say to wait at least a couple weeks after spraying to drop seed so you are even accommodating that with your plan.
@@TurfMechanic thanks
I was thinking of starting my fall overseed September 1st. Is there a temperature you recommend when I should do it?
I think 9/1 is probably still optimal for most people, it's still late summer. As for temps, not really. Most soil temps around the country peak in late July and even if you have a hot august by sept 1 your soil temp swings should already start dropping. Just think, if you are overseeding Sept 1 then the sprouts will be up around 9/8. I guess if you are expecting temps close to triple digits at that time I'd wait a bit but even 90 degree days in sept should be fine for overseeding cool season grasses.
Well instead of focusing on August, focus when the temperature is below 80.
temps below 80 is a good way to look at it for some people but you can't only wait for that number because it may take you too far into the fall. When I lived in Oregon we'd have 90's into Sept and then a light freeze 5 weeks later. The longer you go the less sun you have. I seeded KBG last year and let it grow through 90 degree temps in August and it worked fine. I wouldn't just look at temps for my cue to start renovation.
any recommendations for the "turf type tall fescue"? my back yard is always shade and always wet and its been a struggle to grow anything
Look at the new cultivars with fine fescues. They do great in my shady areas
@@savagerider750is “new cultivars” a brand ?
Just as savagerider said mixing in fine fescue can help for the heavy shade but I might also suggest transitioning your fescue to a low cut fescue and mixing in specific TTTF varieties that are more tolerant to shade or have higher overall NTEP evaluations for turf quality. You may simply have a poorly performing old variety of fescue back there. If moisture is too bad then maybe you need to improve drainage in the area with an annoying digging project. :)
❤ to see ur YT on eliminating wild Bermuda grass in the KBG. The herbicide for that is too nasty and $ for my liking
I may make a video on on the pro-plugger and oven method but the main way I'll be dealing with it later this month is with super expensive pylex 💪
@@TurfMechanic if successful and u have some leftover maybe I’ll buy ur remainder
ha, I'll have so much leftover; it's sad to think how little of the bottle I'll use :D
You don’t prepare Bermuda in the fall. Bermuda is a warm season grass
For those of us in socal that live more inland than you, we have more 90+ degree days coming all the way into October. Could you speak a little more on that? Your proximity to the coast buffers you a little more than people inland.
sure, this could be a full video, I probably should devote more time to this topic too because SoCal is so unique compared to other areas of the country. As you move inland temps really start climbing as you know. Fescue is a lot less common inland although parts of SB county gain some elevation making fescue an option due to it's cold weather tolerance over winter. Essentially a place like Victorville could grow fescue fall through Spring and probably let it go brown in the summer. If you had Bermuda, Buffalo, or Kikuyu inland where temps get up to 100 or more then renos like leveling or sod placement or plugging can still take place in August and Sept but I probably wouldn't aerate unless you could be sure to get a lot of water on the lawn before and after aeration. If you want to apply PE or overseed annual rye over bermuda then timing of everything is a little different than the majority of the country. I could skim over a ton of different scenarios but if you want to summarize your specific scenario and your general location in socal I could give you better guidance.
@@Flybert there could be 25 degrees differents from the cost to inland and only 10-20 miles away in the Bay area and it lasts in to October some times November.
@@TurfMechanic I’m in eastern Los Angeles county in zone 10b with kikuyu/common Bermuda and clay soil. I’m reel mowing at 1.2” and looking to keep the cut low for playing soccer in the front yard. My goal is to do a little leveling and get the grass to thicken up some more. I should probably sign up for your consulting after I get a soil test in.
@@TurfMechanicI’m in San Luis Obispo County…yesterday 8/10/24 it was 105 at my house 15 miles inland and 63 at the coast…normal occurrence in late July to mid August.
My tall fescue gets mowed by deer and they trim it a little too close. Watering 15-20minutes twice a day has kept it alive (along with a monthly fertilizer application.) I expect temps to taper off but weird things happen in October or November when we could see 90-100 temps for a week.
Side note: 80 percent of my yard is just dead. Not watered. It used to be 100% but I created green space in an area 35x80 in the back yard and plan to xeriscape the rest. All part of fire mitigation as there are about 20 oaks on the downward sloping back half of my (almost) acre of land.
Big fan of your page as you’ve helped me a ton so far!
I've got plenty of space, July and August are slow times for lawn care as most people don't know exactly what to do during the heat. Im just going to assume you are close to Covina (east la county) forecast there is low 90's for the next two weeks with no rain full sun and overnight low temps in the high 60s. Your Bermuda should be able to push for a while without ever seeing extreme temps. We could talk specifics in a consult call but depending on your distaste for the kikuyu you could start pushing the kikuyu out this year while thickening up your bermuda. You have plenty of time left to level too, could probably do two rounds of it if you wanted to.