I bypassed using DCC. I had a hard time going back to a 1980’s technology. I went with Railpro direct radio with net. And I am going all battery. So I am dead rail on my layout. No frog juicers, no reverse polarity circuits for loops, no worry with dirty track just like in real life. I am going to add the AM-1 module as well to control my switches from the hand held. I have saved a lot of money as well going this route!
@@mikeadler2755 deal with batteries!? Like any R/C car, plane, or phone, or tablet, or any other modern device! I like having multiple box cars with batteries. After 2 hrs of running your train, just plug in another and put the decharged boxcar on the charger.
Larry! You need a multi-tool(oscillating), to cut the slot out of your faschia for the NCE power panel. It would be much easier and quicker. That is what I use. You can get a corded one at Harbor Freight for 12 or 13 dollars. Thanks, Russ from Oregon.
Glad it was useful. I plan to do a followup on installing the 5 amp Smart booster to upgrade the PowerCab. However NCE is out of parts for those right now and waiting a shipment before they can send me one. Their system is pretty good for beginners and anyone new to DCC plus it has a great expansion pathway. DCC Concepts seems to offer a lot of compatible products and they sell NCE too as I remember.
They are here but are few and far between. I have actually purchased most of my rolling stock and at least 1 loco in the US on eBay but I think that US railroads probably are more popular over there than UK here, just less exposure.
Go with the Pro Cab. I went wireless and would recommend it. The Power Cab is good if you only run one train at a time but it has too many limitations if you want to expand.
Hay Larry : On a similar topic .... How important is the orientation of the six-way colour-strands of the flat data cable in respect of the RJ-Plugs ( One Facing Upside / One Facing Downside ) at each end when making the necessary daisy-chain connections ? Much Ta / John
I’d recommend discontinuing the use of Scotch Locks (we call them vampire clips) as they weaken the wire. You could just as easily use butt connectors, but ideally a soldered joint is superior.
Been using them 30 years without any broken wires! I find that folks who have issues with them use the wrong size connector with the wrong size wires or they don’t use the correct pliers for crimping.
That may be, but just because they're easier, doesn't make them better. I'd strongly recommend discontinuing use, and soldering your connections. This is the proper way to do it.@@TheDCCGuy
Hi Larry. I'm loving this series. I really appreciate the "why" with the "how". A lot of instructors forget that some viewers know very little about the subject. Now for a simple question. Does the polarity of the red/black wires on the back of the interface panel matter? I wouldn't think so but I've been wrong before. Thanks again.
Hi Larry.. your channel goes from strength to strength. For a returning modeller I’ve found so much information that’s saved me time and money. Many thanks. I have the NCE Power Cab and I find this ideal. Can I ask you about the BUS cabling? I have a two tier layout .... upper and lower track circuits. Can I T into the BUS and split across to the upper layout or should it ideally be installed as a single run with a start and an end ? Apologies for asking on this video ( particularly if I’ve missed one covering this)... but I’d like to maximise the Power Cab. Thank you for your time... Regards..Colin H
Colin-I have never tried a t-split but it would be easy enough to try it out. I really don’t see why it would not work, really is no different than a simple split. Of course all their diagrams show direct connections from an EB circuit breaker to a block so were no help. The main issue is it greatly extends the length of the bus run so it probably is better to go out form the booster in a star pattern.
Very interesting. I have two questions: 1. Can the NCE System run the track layout from the two wires coming from a standard Atlas 2 wire terminal track? The under the table “bus” wiring system is way over my pay grade. Can I connect the NCE terminal to a two wire terminal track? 2. I have a very nice Rapido SW 1500 that doesn’t have a DCC adapter installed in the locomotive engine. Can I still use the NCE System? Thank you for your consideration. Eric.
While it possibly could do it on a very small loop of track on anything of any size the voltage drop due to electrical resistance in the rails might bring track voltage down below a point that you would lose control and other problems could crop up. As for you SW1500 NCE does not support DC only locos.
Howzit Larry : I am aware that different DCC Manufacturers have varying opinions and / or instructions in respect of the TWISTING / NON-TWISTING of the heavy-gauged Red / Black wires of the main DCC-Bus for RF that may affect the DCC signals .... What do you reckon ? Similarly; at the end ( s ) of the main DCC-Bus; what should take place ? I am a committed DIGITRAX user of many years on both of my two medium-sized; HO Layouts and I have not twisted the heavy-gauge Red / Black wires and do not have any * End-of-Train * devices ( ! ) where the main DCC-Bus terminates .... And seemingly; all is well with the world. Again; what do youse reckon ? Regards and Cheers For Now / John
Larry onesuit case connectors the black feed on suit case for the red fee so you used 2 suit Case connectors? Does t the suit case have an opening to accept the feeders so you couldn't you use just one suit case connector over the bus wire?
2 Quick questions…. Can an MRC Prodigy advance handheld throttle be used as a second throttle, or does it have to be NCE?….and for Z scale, can a 10V power supply be substituted for the NCE’s standard 13.8v power supply that comes with the system?
The MRC throttle will not work. As for power this is from the manual: Use only the provided P114 power supply or a voltage regulated 10-15 VDC supply of 3 Amps or less.
Hey Larry, I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot watching them. On one of your videos you were airbrushing acrylics indoors while using a shop vac to exhaust the overspray. Do you think that a shop vac connected to a spray booth would work in the same way? I want to buy a booth, but don’t have a place to exhaust it.
I don’t think it would be a good option as even with it there is overspray that gets past it. I do wear a particle mask when I use it too. You can easily exhaust a spray booth out a window. For my booth I took a piece of plywood cut the width of the window and tall enough fo a clothes dryer duct. I then cut a similar sized hole in the plywood, inserted the duct, and just put it in the window when spraying. It exhausts into a basement window well but any window will do as long as you can open it wide enough for an exhaust duct. MicroMark sells a fold up booth with built in filters that can be used indoors for acrylics and they have an optional duct kit for it (www.micromark.com/Fold-Up-Spray-Booth). I have never seen one but it looks like it might work.
Are the ends of the DCC Power Bus connected to anything? Or do they just suspended under the module for feeders and switch machines to be connected to with the suitcase connectors?
They just kind of hang out down there. If you use a snubber then you can insert the ends into the terminals or solder a DIY one there. However don’t connect them to each other or loop back on themselves.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks. I've been slowly making a small switching layout and haven't yet purchased a DCC system, but most likely will be NCE. Been killing time lately watching a bunch of your videos.
Larry, I really appreciated all of the information on hooking up the system. One question though. When you connected the wires that were connected to your bus and you connected them to the rear of the interface, you didn't seem concerned about the polarity of which wire was left or right (red or black) on the connector into the interface. Does the polarity not matter ? or is it only determined by the wires? Thank you.
No it doesn’t matter. As a type of AC, DCC power is constantly switching polarity. It only matters once you start making track connections since there you do have to maintain proper polarity.
Question, I have a three sectional layout, my bus is loose and open on both ends, one end is to connect to my next board. Making sure it's ok to connect to the other end? Or in the middle like yourself?
Great tutorial, thanks. Will be doing this to my layout this weekend. Love the way you make it so simple. How do you get the power cab to display amps? Cheers.
Thank you Larry for an excellent Video, The Loco negotiated those Turnouts perfectly, mind surprised that you’re using an NCE System I thought you were a Digitrax Man. Keep Safe. Guess you’ll getting ready for Christmas soon too.
Peter, back in 1994 I received a Wangrow System One and a Digitrax Challenger systems for reviews. The System One DCC system and NCE were clones and used the same software produced by NCE. I liked System One and it was a strong performer at first but due to its high cost and lack of an entry level version it eventually failed leaving NCE with essentially the same system and lower cost versions. Since then I have always had one type of System One or NCE clone, but for various reasons I ended up choosing Digitrax for my layouts. Maybe it was the breadth of their product line along with early wireless throttles that won me over. I have known the late Don Wangrow, Jim Scorse (NCE), and AJ and Zana Ireland (Digitrax) since those early years and always considered then friends, and I don’t really play favorites. So these modules were a good opportunity for me to use the PowerCab system Jim sent me a few years ago for a review. It is a great introductory system with an easy upgrade path and it has done a lot for popularizing the NCE product range. Over the years I have accumulated at least one of just about every product Digitrax has made and could have easily used a Zephyr, or Chief, or Evolution system and I still might show how easy it would be to make a changeover.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank-You Larry, jeepers you are so quick with your Replies. You might remember that I live in North Devon, Southwest Britain, and it's a wee bit chilly here at the Moment, what's it like over there? I normally get up at about 04;30 and go for a 5 km run, I'll be 74 at Christmas but it keeps me fit. It was -6C this morning and I was very pleased to Home.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank-You Larry, jeepers you are so quick with your Replies. You might remember that I live in North Devon, Southwest Britain, and it's a wee bit chilly here at the Moment, what's it like over there? I normally get up at about 04;30 and go for a 5 km run, I'll be 74 at Christmas but it keeps me fit. It was -6C this morning and I was very pleased to Home.
I had no idea it got that cold over there! We have been dipping into the 0 to -7 range occasionally but that usually doesn’t happen here until Jan-Feb. Although I live in the South because I am up in the mountains at >2000’ it is about the same climate as the Washington DC area, much further north of here, where I used to live, but a lot less humid and cooler in summer. I usually spend the morning hours catching up on news and emails so have the iPad on and these notifications pop up as you guys post them so it is easy for me to keep up. However once I start moving about and working on things I generally have to ignore UA-cam until the evening. But I get enough emails and queries here that I do either have to respond fairly quickly or miss some. Since you are in Devon maybe you can answer a question for me. I plan to order an Id Backscenes backscene for the modules, specificallly Old Mill Town ID-230A&B on the Hattons website once they are back in stock. Those 2 appear to look close to a rural Devon scene, at least compared to what is offered. Would you take a look at those and tell me if they are good representations? Had the Covid not popped up I would probably have made it over there this summer and shot my own photos for backscenes but these will have to do unless you know of better ones. Thanks-Larry
Is NCE as "expandable" as Digitrax? I only have a small N scale layout with a few locos, so NCE is probably all I need. However, if I ever want to get into more complicated things such as remote control of switches, block detection, automated signals, or computerized train control, is that something that NCE can handle as well, with the right add-ons? It seems that most large layouts, with more bells and whistles, use Digitrax, and I don't want to limit myself right off the bat by buying NCE.
Hi Larry Thanks for another great instructional video. Is it ok to use a Power Cab throttle on a layout that uses a 5amp system for a Pro Cab? Thanks Paul from Zillmere
Yes, the coiled cable only has 4 wires whereas the flat cable has 6. The extra 2 wires carry the track power. You use the coiled cable to use a PowerCab as a ProCab.
Larry, I think it's great that you'll be talking about the subject of twisting the bus wires. As you can tell from my questions, it has been a confusing topic, with various people venturing opinions, but I agree with you that we should trust the electrical engineers, people who understand the E&M and have actually done testing. Another topic about bus wiring: Some of my bus runs are lengthy. My layout is about 13 feet by 25 feet, with two levels. For the main line on the lower level, the bus has to run about 80 feet. My plan is to run half of it clockwise from the controller/booster and the other half counterclockwise, so each run would be about 40 feet, give or take. So, my question is, should the cable run be a single continuous piece of wire, or is it OK to put smaller sections in, with terminal strips? I'm wondering if the losses at the terminal strips might prove to be problems (current drop). I also have an accessory bus (for the SMAILs) that runs under both levels of the layout. For that, I'll run the lower level like for the main line; and the upper level similarly. So each bus run will be no more than 40 feet, broken into smaller sections with terminal strips (similar to what you would do with a portable layout like your little project). Breaking the bus wire runs like this would simplify twisting them, too. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks.
Great video. I’m working on installing an NCE powercab module myself for my HO layout. What kind and size screws do you recommend for mounting the NCE?
Newbie here..... Just learning. I was under the impression the NCE was the train controller and power station. So if I am right. What was the controller in your right hand used for at the end of the video?
Both of those are hand held throttles, and in the case of the PowerCab both the DCC command station and booster are also located in the large handheld throttle.
Depends on your scale, how many locos you will run at the same time, whether you use accessory decoders for switch machines, and whether it will power lights or other accessories.
@@TheDCCGuy The max 3 loco's, all other things like lights on the layout and Arduino driven turnouts and semafoor signals are separately powered and have their own source, the NCE will only run the loco's. The scale is OO British rolling stock, lets say loco have the max on extra internal users such as sound and headlights. The scene is a Scottish whisky distillery. The self layout has dual purpose, it runs and is home for a few of my out of my era (normally steam from era1 to 3) shunters and a class 40 diesels. The other purpose of the layout, it's made in such a way I can use it as a test track for DC and DCC. Also the first time I worked with Arduino, servo's as a test build for a planned bigger layout run by a Gaugemaster DCC unit. But I always prefer to run secondary circuits by separate power sources Regards, Danny
It all depends on the total current they pull. So if they each pull .30 amps max then you are at 0.9 amps and OK. Go over 1 amp and everything will stop.
I just got a hollow core interior door, and a set of folding table legs to start my first ever layout in N scale. The layout will represent a small short line railroad in a Pacific Northwest setting, and will be using at the most three locomotives. I got two nice looking, and running Life Like engines, a GP-20, and GP-18, that I'll be converting to DCC, and would like to eventually get a small steam loco to pull a short excursion train. I'll be using Kato Unitrak, and would like to use this DCC PowerCab, as it seems like it will be perfect for my small beginners layout. Do you have any videos, or will you have videos that show you how to do a Unitrak set up with the PowerCab? The inspiration for my layout are the small lumber hauling short lines that used to exist in the Pacific Northwest, particularly in Northern California, and Southern Oregon, like the McCloud River R.R. receive
Hi Larry. Question, when the second UTP panel is installed, can you plug in the NCE Power Cab at the second location and run Trains? I know once you remove the Power Cab, everything shuts down, but was wondering if the the power Cab has to be connected to the port where the power supply is. I have 2 yards at opposite ends of my layout and only operate them one at a time, and was wondering if this would be a fix, until I get a booster. Thanks.
Dave, I tested mine to make sure and no it will not work. The PowerCab master command station/throttle has to be plugged into that specific port on the main panel. Apparently the wiring necessary for it to work as a command station is in that location only.
Notice your running a Great Western 57xx . Do you prefer British trains or was it a coincidence. I use NCE and have found them most obliging with any problems that occur. In fact I sent mine to America to have the chip upgraded and they were brilliant. Frank
My main layout is based on the US Southern Railway, Norfolk and Western, and Chesapeake and Ohio railways. However I also have aa great appreciation of UK railways, especially the GWR. Consequently I have 2 57XX #5775 & #5786, 2 64XX #6417 & #6424, 1 0-6-0 #1363, 1 0-6-0 #3202, 1 0-6-0 #2475, 1 2-6-2 #4555, 1 2-6-0 #6385, 1 0-4-2 #4871, 1 4-6-0 #6009, and #10 Flying Banana, all fitted with SoundTraxx DCC UK sound decoders. I also have a number of coaches and various wagons. So this modular layout will be GWR all the way.
@@TheDCCGuy It's great to see appreciation of other countries railways, I go to (in the past, due to covid) railway shows were there are layouts representing all countries but some people walk past them without a second glance, muttering "it's not British ignore it". They don't even stop to look at the dioramas and some are stunning. I sometimes thought that I was on my own but it's obviously not so as you are a man after my own heart. Stay safe and keep well. Frank
I have this NCE power cab and the light on the ucp panel doesn’t come on what’s that mean I know I have power could it be a bad panel or the light be bad
Hi Larry. I was operating my NCE Power Cab today, and around the end of my session (2 hours mark) I had 2 locomotives running. As I went to slow one of them, I noticed nothing was happening. Then I realized, the Power Cab was not responding, and was in fact frozen. The emergency (red button) also didn’t work, so I shut down the power to avoid a collision. When I powered up again, everything worked properly. I was just wondering if you have heard of this, or if it’s a sign of some issue? Thank-you.
I’ve not heard of that before. I’d give it another long shakedown session again and see if it repeats this, may be a fluke or a gremlin. If it happens again I’d definitely document the problem and call NCE tech support. I have only operated mine for shorts periods up till now but will definitely keep this in mind.
You can use 14 awg copper or speaker wire. Here is what I use. Also I nabe videos on using suitcase and other connectors with this stuff-limited soldering required. Watch my videos on building the modules, installing a PowerCab, etc. If you use speaker wire use OFC not CCA. www.parts-express.com/Audtek-SKRL-14-100-14-AWG-OFC-Speaker-Wire-100-ft.-100-021
Isn’t that the truth. The question is will there be any vendors left in business by the time shows start up again. It will be a learning experience when we start operating sessions again!
Larry really enjoy your video’s, I find them very clear and informative. Would you consider some time doing a tutorial on creating blocks. I have a NCE Powercab with NCE USB Interface and hooked up to JMRI. I am using NCE BD20’s linked to a AIU Interface but I have to admit that the procedure for entering the info into JMRI I find very confusing. My reason is that I have a hidden section with a up and down lines with a loop siding on both and I want see when a loco enters a section. I have set the AIU address at 50 and have calculated each output using the formulae so I understand that bit, but it’s where to enter the appropriate information into JMRI. Do you set up Sensors first, or layout editor first. I’m sure there must be others like me so if you could find time at some point to do a tutorial on this subject I’m sure it would be very much appreciated. Kind regards Roy W (UK)
OK : Apologies ! Now that I have woken up to the REAL world and have seen a number of the self-same queries a-ways further down the Comments section; I understand that you will be doing a subsequent Viddy on TWISTING and SNUBBERS. Much Thanks / John
Yes, it’s actually a recording of #4575 a GWR Prairie. Unfortunately SoundTraxx’s UK steam decoders do not have a PT recording so this is about as close as it gets but really isn’t all that different from those I have heard on various UA-cam videos of the South Devon Railway locos. I cannot understand how they left the PTs out of the recordings, though as they were so common. The whistles should be the same though both the road and shunting versions are provided.
@@TheDCCGuy Sounds nothing like a Prarrie either though XD Sounds more like a generic steam loco sound recording. Maybe its the camera making it sound funny I dunno
Larry, I notice that you twist your bus wires together. I've read in some places that this isn't necessary except for very long runs. This layout is small. What is your experience with this for NCE systems?
The official NCE line is that if the bus is longer than 30’ and/or the booster is rated at 5 amps or greater then you should twist. So with a PowerCab on a small layout it should not be necessary. But what if at a later date you upgrade to a 5 amp smart booster? The way I interpret NCE doctrine since it is 5 amps then you should use twisted pairs even if it is under 30’, but where is the break point? I will do a special video on this topic soon and in the meantime I will send Jim Scorse at NCE some what if questions..
@@TheDCCGuy One person I know uses NCE almost exclusively, and he has built many layouts for clients, some of which are large. He tells me that he doesn't twist the wires and has never encountered problems. I am building a large layout. I'm using a 5-amp NCE controller/booster and several 5-amp NCE boosters (several power districts), and some of my bus runs will be in the neighborhood of 30 feet. I haven't twisted my bus wires (yet). Since I haven't installed many feeder wires, that is something I can correct if necessary. As far as I know, none of the other DCC manufacturers recommend twisting the wires, so it is a confusing situation. Am I right about that? If so, why would NCE be different? The DCC signal transmitted by the NCE system is the same as that generated by other manufacturers. I'll appreciate any concrete information you can get from NCE.
Yes, other manufacturers do recommend it. Digitrax has for several years as a means of preventing crosstalk noise interferences. And NCE is adamant about its use with their systems as I said. So you have the makers of the two most widely used DCC system in North America if not the world recommending it. Now of course you will have folks tells you it doesn’t matter, re are still folks who will tell you the world is flat. So who will you believe, the guys with degrees in electronics that design this stuff or the self proclaimed basement expert? Now if you ignore the recommendations and build like folks have done for almost 100 years before DCC came out then there are some bandaid fixes. NCE sells a device called a snubber that can be installed on layouts with untwisted power buses which will help with the problems that will come. I will do a video to explain all this as soon as I get time, but i the meantime go to the NCE website information station and look up twisted pairs and snubbers, maybe you’ll believe it then.
@@TheDCCGuy Larry, thanks for the reply. I'm going to twist my bus wires, as recommended by NCE (and others, as you've pointed out). The good news is that I haven't progressed very far with my bus wiring, so this is not too onerous a task.
James-consider using 12-14-16 ga zip cord. Larry Meir, the creative genius behind DCC Specialties PSX, etc., did a test of zip cord vs twisted parks and found that zip cord was equally effective. I have been using it on the Piedmont instead of twisting and everything works fine. You can find it anywhere that sells audio supplies.I’ll do a video on this twisting issue ASAP so don’t pull the wires too quickly.
When in doubt use Amazon: www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Screwdriver-BDCS30C/dp/B00TM2T940/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3MVDEO52UXYA9&dchild=1&keywords=black+and+decker+mini+screwdriver+with+light&qid=1634087075&sprefix=black+a+d+decker+mini+screwdriver%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-6
i have ho layout 10buy 16 dcc power cab, only connection i have is two wires frome the rail joiners going to the panel, i run 3or 4 trains use no more tham 140 amps, speed is set at 28 i run between 7 and no more than 14,everything rusns great why do i need a buss or boster.
In your case you don’t. You have limited power demands and I assume a fairly small layout. When you want to run 10 locos on a larger layout I think you’ll find out your answer.
I live in northwest Indiana. We have an electric inter urban between Chicago and South Bend. The South Shore Line Curious if there is sounds for the electric railways
Where is the power coming from? And how does it get to the track? I would like to see that since I know absolutely nothing about DCC. Does anyone have a step by step video on how to hook it up I feel like I spent good money to buy one of these NCE and it won't work with out another part.🤔😞
I showed exactly how to do all of that in this video so maybe you need to watch it again. Which NCE system did you purchase? This video is for an NCE PowerCab.
Let me try again I understand but what I'm wondering is when you spliced into the wires below the layout what are those wires connected to? That's where I lost you.🙂I'm confused were or what those wire were connected to. I apologise for the miss understanding. Thank you
There are a number of videos on my channel that go over installing the DCC power bus, connecting feeders to the track and turnouts, etc. One video cannot begin to cover all aspects of this. So dig in and binge watch.
Great, if you follow the entire video series I show how to build the layout, install the roadbed and track, do all the wiring, install the NCE, and how to use the cab06 utility throttle. Enjoy the ride!
At minute 14:32 you say "just slip in the red and black wires into the black terminal" Not at all savvy on electronics, I don't understand whether there is a positive or negative wire preference. It seems you simply arbitrarily put a wire in each slot, not differentiating positive or negative wires. Is that correct?
That is correct. DCC is different from standard DC wiring. Keeping track of the wires in this case only matters when you add a booster and then you just need to make sure to be consistent so that the output wire for the right rail on both actually go to the right rail . And if you get it backwards and pop a short when a loco crosses the block gaps then you just swap the wires to correct it. If you want the complicated part then watch my other videos on shorts and how to prevent them.
@@TheDCCGuy This is an excellent explanation! I feel so isolated where I live for electrical advice, and I truly rely on your help. I hope at some point to explain parts of what I am doing to our train group. Thanks again.
It helps prevent decoder killing high voltage spikes on the tracks, especially when a short occurs. Only necessary with DCC power buses over 30’ and/or over 5 amps.
With the NCE : 1. Can it be used to program the Digitrax DS64 given the open DCC standard? 2. Inspired from your switching layout, I've started almost an identical plan with 2 locos. I plan to add another identical plan to extend this at rt. angles with 2 additional locos. Can I use the same command station but 2 daisy chained power interfaces; one for each layout?
I’ll have to check in the DS64 whether it will require a Digitrax throttle or not, but I think it will work. There are some finctions that do require a LocoNet connection. As for your second question, there should be no problem using the same command station with two different layouts. If you ever do connect the two layouts make sure to get the polarities correct.
I have not tried it but you should be able to use the accessory selection button on the PowerCab to program a DS64. With a Digitrax throttle you put the DS64 into programming mode and send commands to switch address 01. The PowerCab has an accessory decoder selection button and the ability to send open and closed commands so it should work. Here is what Digitrax says: “Refer to your DCC throttle’s operating guide for specific instructions for selecting switch addresses and sending switch commands.” I would buy one DS64 and try it before buying several just to make sure.
It will work using DCC for commands but don't use DCC for power, as they have a habit of going nuts when you do. Some NCE layouts use them to take switch commands off of DCC but provide feedback to the computer via LocoNet.
Great explanation of the power cab. Would like to see more on the smart booster installation to power more engines too....thanks for sharing Jack 👍
I plan to contact Jim Scorse at NCE for other reasons and will hit him up for a Smart Booster.
I bypassed using DCC. I had a hard time going back to a 1980’s technology. I went with Railpro direct radio with net. And I am going all battery. So I am dead rail on my layout. No frog juicers, no reverse polarity circuits for loops, no worry with dirty track just like in real life. I am going to add the AM-1 module as well to control my switches from the hand held. I have saved a lot of money as well going this route!
Just gotta deal with batteries and modifications to make said batteries fit and you then you gotta recharge them
@@mikeadler2755 deal with batteries!? Like any R/C car, plane, or phone, or tablet, or any other modern device! I like having multiple box cars with batteries. After 2 hrs of running your train, just plug in another and put the decharged boxcar on the charger.
A successful maiden run ! I’ve enjoyed this series Larry and looking forward to the remaining videos. Thank you 🇦🇺
Just got the January 2021 issue of Model Railroad and sad to see a new DCC columnist. Really enjoyed your columns.
Good show! I recently did the same installation on my 4 x 8 under-construction project. Wish I had more track laid, though.
Another great video sir. Thank you.
Larry! You need a multi-tool(oscillating), to cut the slot out of your faschia for the NCE power panel. It would be much easier and quicker. That is what I use. You can get a corded one at Harbor Freight for 12 or 13 dollars. Thanks, Russ from Oregon.
I keep hearing that, but one more tool might tip the Craftsman toll chest over!
Very useful video thank you Larry.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Enjoyed.
👍👍👍
Awesome work Larry
I like that this was a simple explanation of the NCE installation. I'm going to be building a small British shunting layout in the near future.
Glad it was useful. I plan to do a followup on installing the 5 amp Smart booster to upgrade the PowerCab. However NCE is out of parts for those right now and waiting a shipment before they can send me one. Their system is pretty good for beginners and anyone new to DCC plus it has a great expansion pathway. DCC Concepts seems to offer a lot of compatible products and they sell NCE too as I remember.
Its nice to see UK locos being used in the USA, we have a fair few American layouts in the UK, but ive never seen UK in the USA.
They are here but are few and far between. I have actually purchased most of my rolling stock and at least 1 loco in the US on eBay but I think that US railroads probably are more popular over there than UK here, just less exposure.
Go with the Pro Cab. I went wireless and would recommend it. The Power Cab is good if you only run one train at a time but it has too many limitations if you want to expand.
Great SIR! very useful! THANK YOU!
Amazing, I'm gonna go to my local hobby store and get some 22 inch tracks that atlas made and start planning my layout for this come next year.
Great stuff Larry, thanks for sharing. I got the Powercab a few months back and I love it!
Hay Larry : On a similar topic .... How important is the orientation of the six-way colour-strands of the flat data cable in respect of the RJ-Plugs ( One Facing Upside / One Facing Downside ) at each end when making the necessary daisy-chain connections ? Much Ta / John
Enjoyed the video👍😎
I’d recommend discontinuing the use of Scotch Locks (we call them vampire clips) as they weaken the wire. You could just as easily use butt connectors, but ideally a soldered joint is superior.
Been using them 30 years without any broken wires! I find that folks who have issues with them use the wrong size connector with the wrong size wires or they don’t use the correct pliers for crimping.
That may be, but just because they're easier, doesn't make them better. I'd strongly recommend discontinuing use, and soldering your connections. This is the proper way to do it.@@TheDCCGuy
New this DCC sounds but put on my layout friends
Hi Larry. I'm loving this series. I really appreciate the "why" with the "how". A lot of instructors forget that some viewers know very little about the subject. Now for a simple question. Does the polarity of the red/black wires on the back of the interface panel matter? I wouldn't think so but I've been wrong before. Thanks again.
Question do you have to use the same size bus wire for the NCE connection or can you use smaller gage wiring?
If your wire won’t fit in the connector then just use a short transition piece of smaller diameter and splice them.
Hi Larry.. your channel goes from strength to strength. For a returning modeller I’ve found so much information that’s saved me time and money. Many thanks.
I have the NCE Power Cab and I find this ideal.
Can I ask you about the BUS cabling?
I have a two tier layout .... upper and lower track circuits.
Can I T into the BUS and split across to the upper layout or should it ideally be installed as a single run with a start and an end ?
Apologies for asking on this video ( particularly if I’ve missed one covering this)... but I’d like to maximise the Power Cab. Thank you for your time... Regards..Colin H
Colin-I have never tried a t-split but it would be easy enough to try it out. I really don’t see why it would not work, really is no different than a simple split. Of course all their diagrams show direct connections from an EB circuit breaker to a block so were no help. The main issue is it greatly extends the length of the bus run so it probably is better to go out form the booster in a star pattern.
Thank you for getting back ... yes that makes more sense.. thanks Larry... Colin..
Very interesting. I have two questions:
1. Can the NCE System run the track layout from the two wires coming from a standard Atlas 2 wire terminal track? The under the table “bus” wiring system is way over my pay grade. Can I connect the NCE terminal to a two wire terminal track?
2. I have a very nice Rapido SW 1500 that doesn’t have a DCC adapter installed
in the locomotive engine. Can I still use the NCE System?
Thank you for your consideration. Eric.
While it possibly could do it on a very small loop of track on anything of any size the voltage drop due to electrical resistance in the rails might bring track voltage down below a point that you would lose control and other problems could crop up. As for you SW1500 NCE does not support DC only locos.
Thank you. @@TheDCCGuy
Thank you. @@TheDCCGuy
thank you always great how to
Howzit Larry : I am aware that different DCC Manufacturers have varying opinions and / or instructions in respect of the TWISTING / NON-TWISTING of the heavy-gauged Red / Black wires of the main DCC-Bus for RF that may affect the DCC signals .... What do you reckon ? Similarly; at the end ( s ) of the main DCC-Bus; what should take place ? I am a committed DIGITRAX user of many years on both of my two medium-sized; HO Layouts and I have not twisted the heavy-gauge Red / Black wires and do not have any * End-of-Train * devices ( ! ) where the main DCC-Bus terminates .... And seemingly; all is well with the world. Again; what do youse reckon ? Regards and Cheers For Now / John
Nice video!
Thanks Manny
Larry onesuit case connectors the black feed on suit case for the red fee so you used 2 suit Case connectors? Does t the suit case have an opening to accept the feeders so you couldn't you use just one suit case connector over the bus wire?
Each suitcase connector will only do one wire and dropper.
2 Quick questions…. Can an MRC Prodigy advance handheld throttle be used as a second throttle, or does it have to be NCE?….and for Z scale, can a 10V power supply be substituted for the NCE’s standard 13.8v power supply that comes with the system?
The MRC throttle will not work. As for power this is from the manual:
Use only the provided P114 power supply or a voltage regulated 10-15 VDC supply of 3 Amps or less.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you!
Hey Larry, I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot watching them. On one of your videos you were airbrushing acrylics indoors while using a shop vac to exhaust the overspray. Do you think that a shop vac connected to a spray booth would work in the same way? I want to buy a booth, but don’t have a place to exhaust it.
I don’t think it would be a good option as even with it there is overspray that gets past it. I do wear a particle mask when I use it too. You can easily exhaust a spray booth out a window. For my booth I took a piece of plywood cut the width of the window and tall enough fo a clothes dryer duct. I then cut a similar sized hole in the plywood, inserted the duct, and just put it in the window when spraying. It exhausts into a basement window well but any window will do as long as you can open it wide enough for an exhaust duct. MicroMark sells a fold up booth with built in filters that can be used indoors for acrylics and they have an optional duct kit for it (www.micromark.com/Fold-Up-Spray-Booth). I have never seen one but it looks like it might work.
It's sad to me that model train videos only get around 1k likes so sad 😔... but to help you I subscribed😄
Are the ends of the DCC Power Bus connected to anything? Or do they just suspended under the module for feeders and switch machines to be connected to with the suitcase connectors?
They just kind of hang out down there. If you use a snubber then you can insert the ends into the terminals or solder a DIY one there. However don’t connect them to each other or loop back on themselves.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks. I've been slowly making a small switching layout and haven't yet purchased a DCC system, but most likely will be NCE. Been killing time lately watching a bunch of your videos.
Can you make a video on installing one in n scale using kato unitrack?
Larry, I really appreciated all of the information on hooking up the system. One question though. When you connected the wires that were connected to your bus and you connected them to the rear of the interface, you didn't seem concerned about the polarity of which wire was left or right (red or black) on the connector into the interface. Does the polarity not matter ? or is it only determined by the wires? Thank you.
No it doesn’t matter. As a type of AC, DCC power is constantly switching polarity. It only matters once you start making track connections since there you do have to maintain proper polarity.
Question, I have a three sectional layout, my bus is loose and open on both ends, one end is to connect to my next board. Making sure it's ok to connect to the other end? Or in the middle like yourself?
Should be fine, but the recommendation is to not make a complete circle that connects back onto itself without gaps.
Great tutorial, thanks. Will be doing this to my layout this weekend. Love the way you make it so simple. How do you get the power cab to display amps? Cheers.
It’s in the cab setup, page 59 in my manual so look around there.
Thank you Larry for an excellent Video, The Loco negotiated those Turnouts perfectly, mind surprised that you’re using an NCE System I thought you were a Digitrax Man. Keep Safe. Guess you’ll getting ready for Christmas soon too.
Peter, back in 1994 I received a Wangrow System One and a Digitrax Challenger systems for reviews. The System One DCC system and NCE were clones and used the same software produced by NCE. I liked System One and it was a strong performer at first but due to its high cost and lack of an entry level version it eventually failed leaving NCE with essentially the same system and lower cost versions. Since then I have always had one type of System One or NCE clone, but for various reasons I ended up choosing Digitrax for my layouts. Maybe it was the breadth of their product line along with early wireless throttles that won me over. I have known the late Don Wangrow, Jim Scorse (NCE), and AJ and Zana Ireland (Digitrax) since those early years and always considered then friends, and I don’t really play favorites. So these modules were a good opportunity for me to use the PowerCab system Jim sent me a few years ago for a review. It is a great introductory system with an easy upgrade path and it has done a lot for popularizing the NCE product range. Over the years I have accumulated at least one of just about every product Digitrax has made and could have easily used a Zephyr, or Chief, or Evolution system and I still might show how easy it would be to make a changeover.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank-You Larry, jeepers you are so quick with your Replies. You might remember that I live in North Devon, Southwest Britain, and it's a wee bit chilly here at the Moment, what's it like over there? I normally get up at about 04;30 and go for a 5 km run, I'll be 74 at Christmas but it keeps me fit. It was -6C this morning and I was very pleased to Home.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank-You Larry, jeepers you are so quick with your Replies. You might remember that I live in North Devon, Southwest Britain, and it's a wee bit chilly here at the Moment, what's it like over there? I normally get up at about 04;30 and go for a 5 km run, I'll be 74 at Christmas but it keeps me fit. It was -6C this morning and I was very pleased to Home.
I had no idea it got that cold over there! We have been dipping into the 0 to -7 range occasionally but that usually doesn’t happen here until Jan-Feb. Although I live in the South because I am up in the mountains at >2000’ it is about the same climate as the Washington DC area, much further north of here, where I used to live, but a lot less humid and cooler in summer.
I usually spend the morning hours catching up on news and emails so have the iPad on and these notifications pop up as you guys post them so it is easy for me to keep up. However once I start moving about and working on things I generally have to ignore UA-cam until the evening. But I get enough emails and queries here that I do either have to respond fairly quickly or miss some.
Since you are in Devon maybe you can answer a question for me. I plan to order an Id Backscenes backscene for the modules, specificallly Old Mill Town ID-230A&B on the Hattons website once they are back in stock. Those 2 appear to look close to a rural Devon scene, at least compared to what is offered. Would you take a look at those and tell me if they are good representations? Had the Covid not popped up I would probably have made it over there this summer and shot my own photos for backscenes but these will have to do unless you know of better ones. Thanks-Larry
@@TheDCCGuy I must confess, it’s not often as cold, but I live in the sticks.
Is NCE as "expandable" as Digitrax? I only have a small N scale layout with a few locos, so NCE is probably all I need. However, if I ever want to get into more complicated things such as remote control of switches, block detection, automated signals, or computerized train control, is that something that NCE can handle as well, with the right add-ons?
It seems that most large layouts, with more bells and whistles, use Digitrax, and I don't want to limit myself right off the bat by buying NCE.
Yes, although Digitrax may offer more accessories than NCE. Also watch video #303.
Hi Larry
Thanks for another great instructional video.
Is it ok to use a Power Cab throttle on a layout that uses a 5amp system for a Pro Cab?
Thanks
Paul from Zillmere
Yes, I should have mentioned that the PowerCab throttle can be used as a regular throttle on another NCE layout.
Yes, the coiled cable only has 4 wires whereas the flat cable has 6. The extra 2 wires carry the track power. You use the coiled cable to use a PowerCab as a ProCab.
Thanks for the prompt reply and the additional information.
Paul from Zillmere
Larry, what do you recommend for a battery powered hand drill/driver?
All of mine are Black and Decker
Thank you!@@TheDCCGuy
I just bought a power cab and how did you get the amps to show on your screen that you are drawing on the rail? Great video
See page 59 of the manual.
Larry, I think it's great that you'll be talking about the subject of twisting the bus wires. As you can tell from my questions, it has been a confusing topic, with various people venturing opinions, but I agree with you that we should trust the electrical engineers, people who understand the E&M and have actually done testing. Another topic about bus wiring: Some of my bus runs are lengthy. My layout is about 13 feet by 25 feet, with two levels. For the main line on the lower level, the bus has to run about 80 feet. My plan is to run half of it clockwise from the controller/booster and the other half counterclockwise, so each run would be about 40 feet, give or take. So, my question is, should the cable run be a single continuous piece of wire, or is it OK to put smaller sections in, with terminal strips? I'm wondering if the losses at the terminal strips might prove to be problems (current drop). I also have an accessory bus (for the SMAILs) that runs under both levels of the layout. For that, I'll run the lower level like for the main line; and the upper level similarly. So each bus run will be no more than 40 feet, broken into smaller sections with terminal strips (similar to what you would do with a portable layout like your little project). Breaking the bus wire runs like this would simplify twisting them, too. Does that sound reasonable? Thanks.
James-it doesn’t matter how you break them down, it’s what the total length is that matters. Two 30’ runs are still 60’.
Great video. I’m working on installing an NCE powercab module myself for my HO layout. What kind and size screws do you recommend for mounting the NCE?
Newbie here..... Just learning. I was under the impression the NCE was the train controller and power station. So if I am right. What was the controller in your right hand used for at the end of the video?
Both of those are hand held throttles, and in the case of the PowerCab both the DCC command station and booster are also located in the large handheld throttle.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you.
Hi Larry, just bought a NCE starters unit for a shelf layout I'm building, what value circuit breakers would you use, 1amp?
Depends on your scale, how many locos you will run at the same time, whether you use accessory decoders for switch machines, and whether it will power lights or other accessories.
@@TheDCCGuy The max 3 loco's, all other things like lights on the layout and Arduino driven turnouts and semafoor signals are separately powered and have their own source, the NCE will only run the loco's.
The scale is OO British rolling stock, lets say loco have the max on extra internal users such as sound and headlights.
The scene is a Scottish whisky distillery.
The self layout has dual purpose, it runs and is home for a few of my out of my era (normally steam from era1 to 3) shunters and a class 40 diesels.
The other purpose of the layout, it's made in such a way I can use it as a test track for DC and DCC.
Also the first time I worked with Arduino, servo's as a test build for a planned bigger layout run by a Gaugemaster DCC unit.
But I always prefer to run secondary circuits by separate power sources
Regards,
Danny
It all depends on the total current they pull. So if they each pull .30 amps max then you are at 0.9 amps and OK. Go over 1 amp and everything will stop.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for sharing your view on this much appreciated👍
I just got a hollow core interior door, and a set of folding table legs to start my first ever layout in N scale. The layout will represent a small short line railroad in a Pacific Northwest setting, and will be using at the most three locomotives. I got two nice looking, and running Life Like engines, a GP-20, and GP-18, that I'll be converting to DCC, and would like to eventually get a small steam loco to pull a short excursion train. I'll be using Kato Unitrak, and would like to use this DCC PowerCab, as it seems like it will be perfect for my small beginners layout. Do you have any videos, or will you have videos that show you how to do a Unitrak set up with the PowerCab?
The inspiration for my layout are the small lumber hauling short lines that used to exist in the Pacific Northwest, particularly in Northern California, and Southern Oregon, like the McCloud River R.R.
receive
Sorry but I have no experience with Unitrack. I suggest you do a search on UA-cam and see if there are any others who have done videos on it.
Hi Larry. Question, when the second UTP panel is installed, can you plug in the NCE Power Cab at the second location and run Trains? I know once you remove the Power Cab, everything shuts down, but was wondering if the the power Cab has to be connected to the port where the power supply is. I have 2 yards at opposite ends of my layout and only operate them one at a time, and was wondering if this would be a fix, until I get a booster. Thanks.
Dave, I tested mine to make sure and no it will not work. The PowerCab master command station/throttle has to be plugged into that specific port on the main panel. Apparently the wiring necessary for it to work as a command station is in that location only.
Thank-you Larry.
Notice your running a Great Western 57xx . Do you prefer British trains or was it a coincidence. I use NCE and have found them most obliging with any problems that occur. In fact I sent mine to America to have the chip upgraded and they were brilliant. Frank
My main layout is based on the US Southern Railway, Norfolk and Western, and Chesapeake and Ohio railways. However I also have aa great appreciation of UK railways, especially the GWR. Consequently I have 2 57XX #5775 & #5786, 2 64XX #6417 & #6424, 1 0-6-0 #1363, 1 0-6-0 #3202, 1 0-6-0 #2475, 1 2-6-2 #4555, 1 2-6-0 #6385, 1 0-4-2 #4871, 1 4-6-0 #6009, and #10 Flying Banana, all fitted with SoundTraxx DCC UK sound decoders. I also have a number of coaches and various wagons. So this modular layout will be GWR all the way.
@@TheDCCGuy It's great to see appreciation of other countries railways, I go to (in the past, due to covid) railway shows were there are layouts representing all countries but some people walk past them without a second glance, muttering "it's not British ignore it". They don't even stop to look at the dioramas and some are stunning. I sometimes thought that I was on my own but it's obviously not so as you are a man after my own heart. Stay safe and keep well. Frank
I have this NCE power cab and the light on the ucp panel doesn’t come on what’s that mean I know I have power could it be a bad panel or the light be bad
Does your system and throttle work otherwise?
Top Video👍
Hi Larry. I was operating my NCE Power Cab today, and around the end of my session (2 hours mark) I had 2 locomotives running. As I went to slow one of them, I noticed nothing was happening. Then I realized, the Power Cab was not responding, and was in fact frozen. The emergency (red button) also didn’t work, so I shut down the power to avoid a collision. When I powered up again, everything worked properly. I was just wondering if you have heard of this, or if it’s a sign of some issue? Thank-you.
I’ve not heard of that before. I’d give it another long shakedown session again and see if it repeats this, may be a fluke or a gremlin. If it happens again I’d definitely document the problem and call NCE tech support. I have only operated mine for shorts periods up till now but will definitely keep this in mind.
thx Larry
Where can I get the 2 wires for the power bus?
You can use 14 awg copper or speaker wire. Here is what I use. Also I nabe videos on using suitcase and other connectors with this stuff-limited soldering required. Watch my videos on building the modules, installing a PowerCab, etc. If you use speaker wire use OFC not CCA.
www.parts-express.com/Audtek-SKRL-14-100-14-AWG-OFC-Speaker-Wire-100-ft.-100-021
@@TheDCCGuy ok, thanks. I have the rest of the year to plan my layout. Shouldn't be too difficult.
I sure hope a covid vaccine becomes available soon so that I can have NMRA meetings once again. And train shows. I need train shows.
Isn’t that the truth. The question is will there be any vendors left in business by the time shows start up again. It will be a learning experience when we start operating sessions again!
Larry really enjoy your video’s, I find them very clear and informative. Would you consider some time doing a tutorial on creating blocks. I have a NCE Powercab with NCE USB Interface and hooked up to JMRI. I am using NCE BD20’s linked to a AIU Interface but I have to admit that the procedure for entering the info into JMRI I find very confusing. My reason is that I have a hidden section with a up and down lines with a loop siding on both and I want see when a loco enters a section. I have set the AIU address at 50 and have calculated each output using the formulae so I understand that bit, but it’s where to enter the appropriate information into JMRI. Do you set up Sensors first, or layout editor first. I’m sure there must be others like me so if you could find time at some point to do a tutorial on this subject I’m sure it would be very much appreciated.
Kind regards
Roy W (UK)
OK : Apologies ! Now that I have woken up to the REAL world and have seen a number of the self-same queries a-ways further down the Comments section; I understand that you will be doing a subsequent Viddy on TWISTING and SNUBBERS. Much Thanks / John
Shame it sounds nothing like a Pannier tank but oh well XD Suprised to see a UK loco on a US layout.
Yes, it’s actually a recording of #4575 a GWR Prairie. Unfortunately SoundTraxx’s UK steam decoders do not have a PT recording so this is about as close as it gets but really isn’t all that different from those I have heard on various UA-cam videos of the South Devon Railway locos. I cannot understand how they left the PTs out of the recordings, though as they were so common. The whistles should be the same though both the road and shunting versions are provided.
@@TheDCCGuy Sounds nothing like a Prarrie either though XD Sounds more like a generic steam loco sound recording. Maybe its the camera making it sound funny I dunno
@@NathanielKempson That is likely why as I was just using my lav mic and not a shotgun aimed at the loco.
Larry, I notice that you twist your bus wires together. I've read in some places that this isn't necessary except for very long runs. This layout is small. What is your experience with this for NCE systems?
The official NCE line is that if the bus is longer than 30’ and/or the booster is rated at 5 amps or greater then you should twist. So with a PowerCab on a small layout it should not be necessary. But what if at a later date you upgrade to a 5 amp smart booster? The way I interpret NCE doctrine since it is 5 amps then you should use twisted pairs even if it is under 30’, but where is the break point? I will do a special video on this topic soon and in the meantime I will send Jim Scorse at NCE some what if questions..
@@TheDCCGuy One person I know uses NCE almost exclusively, and he has built many layouts for clients, some of which are large. He tells me that he doesn't twist the wires and has never encountered problems. I am building a large layout. I'm using a 5-amp NCE controller/booster and several 5-amp NCE boosters (several power districts), and some of my bus runs will be in the neighborhood of 30 feet. I haven't twisted my bus wires (yet). Since I haven't installed many feeder wires, that is something I can correct if necessary. As far as I know, none of the other DCC manufacturers recommend twisting the wires, so it is a confusing situation. Am I right about that? If so, why would NCE be different? The DCC signal transmitted by the NCE system is the same as that generated by other manufacturers. I'll appreciate any concrete information you can get from NCE.
Yes, other manufacturers do recommend it. Digitrax has for several years as a means of preventing crosstalk noise interferences. And NCE is adamant about its use with their systems as I said. So you have the makers of the two most widely used DCC system in North America if not the world recommending it. Now of course you will have folks tells you it doesn’t matter, re are still folks who will tell you the world is flat. So who will you believe, the guys with degrees in electronics that design this stuff or the self proclaimed basement expert? Now if you ignore the recommendations and build like folks have done for almost 100 years before DCC came out then there are some bandaid fixes. NCE sells a device called a snubber that can be installed on layouts with untwisted power buses which will help with the problems that will come. I will do a video to explain all this as soon as I get time, but i the meantime go to the NCE website information station and look up twisted pairs and snubbers, maybe you’ll believe it then.
@@TheDCCGuy Larry, thanks for the reply. I'm going to twist my bus wires, as recommended by NCE (and others, as you've pointed out). The good news is that I haven't progressed very far with my bus wiring, so this is not too onerous a task.
James-consider using 12-14-16 ga zip cord. Larry Meir, the creative genius behind DCC Specialties PSX, etc., did a test of zip cord vs twisted parks and found that zip cord was equally effective. I have been using it on the Piedmont instead of twisting and everything works fine. You can find it anywhere that sells audio supplies.I’ll do a video on this twisting issue ASAP so don’t pull the wires too quickly.
who made the small mini drill?
Black and Decker.
@@TheDCCGuyunable to locate, do you have model # thanks
When in doubt use Amazon:
www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Screwdriver-BDCS30C/dp/B00TM2T940/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3MVDEO52UXYA9&dchild=1&keywords=black+and+decker+mini+screwdriver+with+light&qid=1634087075&sprefix=black+a+d+decker+mini+screwdriver%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-6
@@TheDCCGuyMANY THANKS, LOOKED WITH MY MOUTH
INDTEAD OF EYES, STUPID ME
Is it really that simple. Just like a Dc system hook it up to your main power cables
It can be if your wiring is done right and there are no complicating factors-keep it simple!
i have ho layout 10buy 16 dcc power cab, only connection i have is two wires frome the rail joiners going to the panel, i run 3or 4 trains use no more tham 140 amps, speed is set at 28 i run between 7 and no more than 14,everything rusns great why do i need a buss or boster.
In your case you don’t. You have limited power demands and I assume a fairly small layout. When you want to run 10 locos on a larger layout I think you’ll find out your answer.
thanks for getting back my layout is 10 buy 16.
How does DCC know if a locomotive is steam or diesel or electric?
You have to pay extra for really smart decoders.
@Model Railroading its got to be a on one of the cv settings
I live in northwest Indiana. We have an electric inter urban between Chicago and South Bend. The South Shore Line
Curious if there is sounds for the electric railways
Yes I seem to remember someone doing electrics, check Soundtraxx and maybe TCS.
Where is the power coming from? And how does it get to the track? I would like to see that since I know absolutely nothing about DCC.
Does anyone have a step by step video on how to hook it up I feel like I spent good money to buy one of these NCE and it won't work with out another part.🤔😞
I showed exactly how to do all of that in this video so maybe you need to watch it again. Which NCE system did you purchase? This video is for an NCE PowerCab.
Let me try again I understand but what I'm wondering is when you spliced into the wires below the layout what are those wires connected to? That's where I lost you.🙂I'm confused were or what those wire were connected to.
I apologise for the miss understanding.
Thank you
There are a number of videos on my channel that go over installing the DCC power bus, connecting feeders to the track and turnouts, etc. One video cannot begin to cover all aspects of this. So dig in and binge watch.
@@TheDCCGuy
Ok I will do that 😊 I bought the NCE power cab
Great, if you follow the entire video series I show how to build the layout, install the roadbed and track, do all the wiring, install the NCE, and how to use the cab06 utility throttle. Enjoy the ride!
At minute 14:32 you say "just slip in the red and black wires into the black terminal" Not at all savvy on electronics, I don't understand whether there is a positive or negative wire preference. It seems you simply arbitrarily put a wire in each slot, not differentiating positive or negative wires. Is that correct?
That is correct. DCC is different from standard DC wiring. Keeping track of the wires in this case only matters when you add a booster and then you just need to make sure to be consistent so that the output wire for the right rail on both actually go to the right rail . And if you get it backwards and pop a short when a loco crosses the block gaps then you just swap the wires to correct it. If you want the complicated part then watch my other videos on shorts and how to prevent them.
@@TheDCCGuy This is an excellent explanation! I feel so isolated where I live for electrical advice, and I truly rely on your help. I hope at some point to explain parts of what I am doing to our train group. Thanks again.
Why do you twist the BUS wires?
It helps prevent decoder killing high voltage spikes on the tracks, especially when a short occurs. Only necessary with DCC power buses over 30’ and/or over 5 amps.
@@TheDCCGuy Ok, Understood, many thanks!
An oscillating multi-tool wouldmake that panel cut much easier and much cleaner... Just sayin'...
People keep telling me that, but I always think I’m not going to need it again and out off buying one. I guess I just need to give in and grab one.
You should never put your fingers anywhere near that blade there is no need.
Dcc abc . Stop with the industry jargon. Spell it out if you are teaching . Thank yah.
With the NCE :
1. Can it be used to program the Digitrax DS64 given the open DCC standard?
2. Inspired from your switching layout, I've started almost an identical plan with 2 locos. I plan to add another identical plan to extend this at rt. angles with 2 additional locos. Can I use the same command station but 2 daisy chained power interfaces; one for each layout?
I’ll have to check in the DS64 whether it will require a Digitrax throttle or not, but I think it will work. There are some finctions that do require a LocoNet connection. As for your second question, there should be no problem using the same command station with two different layouts. If you ever do connect the two layouts make sure to get the polarities correct.
I have not tried it but you should be able to use the accessory selection button on the PowerCab to program a DS64. With a Digitrax throttle you put the DS64 into programming mode and send commands to switch address 01. The PowerCab has an accessory decoder selection button and the ability to send open and closed commands so it should work. Here is what Digitrax says: “Refer to your DCC throttle’s operating guide for specific instructions for selecting switch addresses and sending switch commands.” I would buy one DS64 and try it before buying several just to make sure.
It will work using DCC for commands but don't use DCC for power, as they have a habit of going nuts when you do. Some NCE layouts use them to take switch commands off of DCC but provide feedback to the computer via LocoNet.