Agree with all your comments on monitor cal & the spider products, I have been using spider products for years as a professional sports photographer, and I’ve e found the calibration to be critical to ensure edited images are true to life, & how you not only want them, but also how you remember the shots you captured. I envy the monitor you mention you use, I use BenQ which works well also with the spider cal system, however sports photography does not pay to the level of events and weddings sadly - ha. Cheers from the west coast & keep up the excellent content!
I bought the Spyder package that includes the printer calibration so that everything from shooting to editing to printing was fully calibrated and under control. I also fine tuned my printing profiles for the Epson photo poster printer at my local Walgreens so that I get the same quality results as a pro photo lab, within 1 hour and up to 36x24 landscape for less than $20 (and up to half off that since there’s almost always a coupon on!). Add to a photo/poster frame and charge the customer $300 per print! Gone are the days where the color isn’t exactly as I remember shooting it. I can’t go back to anything short of perfect color rendition.
I use a Spider X to calibrate my Eizo screen but Eizo use their own software to do the calculations. I recently had to upgrade from an older Spider that was no longer supported.
Is the Ultra ONLY for high brightness/HDR displays, or will it work just as well on older monitors as well? For $30 I rather just get the nicer one and future proof if it does work with say... a 7 year old Imac display haha. Thanks.
I have used the spyder pro to calibrate. I wasn't impressed. My monitor looked very warm and my laptop which I have hooked up to my large monitor calibrated very differently. Maybe I should try it again since the software has been upgraded? I've never been able to get my laptop to match my monitor which is very frustrating. I will do sample prints before I post any photos that are potentially money makers. I shoot mainly sports-high school and college football and mainly for the joy of being able to be on the sidelines with the players and for the love of the game-well and my son is coach! 😂 If I do any portrait work then I'll print samples before posting. But there has to be a better way.... so maybe I'll try calibrating again. 😊
Looks like the new software is not compatible with the older sensors like mine, the Spyder X Pro. But I don't have any issues when making my own prints.
@@darrend5489 Your comment above about the color being too warm after calibrating with the Spyder X Pro is the exact problem I'm having as well. I calibrated with the datacolor specs and then when I went to use a printer, I used their specs and I can't get the my monitor to match their test prints.
OK Photo Goddess bare with me here a sec ! I never have ever calibrated a monitor but recently l have seen the error in my ways! for 20 bucks more I would go for the Ultra however how about the X Pro for less than half the price of these? Your brilliance in this matter would be greatly appreciated!
@@VanessaJoy Thanks for your reply! I thought about it and I have several monitors that are HDR so I decided to go the extra mile! It's just money right?🤑
When you calibrate, just make sure all your light s are off and your screen is turned up to the max brightness. If you don't do this, you'll get a very dim screen. Hopefully they have changed this in the new version, as that is what I have to do to get a good calibration from the older model.
Yeah I'd like to know this too. I had one many many years ago and I had to just toss it in the trash eventually because it was so weird and wanted my screen to be at like 1% brightness.
----- @pinkflamingos69 ----- - Just like you explained, I remember many years ago... I believe it was back around when the 'Spyder 3' or 'Spyder 4' was released. Posts popped up all over the web on many different types of forums. People either felt that the end result was too dark or too bright. The people at Datacolor recommend one to set the display back to its' factory default setting before starting any sort of calibration. And I've also read a lot of different comments on forums that disabling any and all sorts of enhancements modes before starting calibration is also a very good rule of thumb in this regard. Just as an added precaution, one might also want to disable and do a test calibration without the light sensor active. There might be a bug somewhere... It could be the software or the light sensor, or even both if you are really unlucky. So doing separate calibrations, one with the light sensor turned off and then one with it turned on. That could help with figuring out where the problem lies. If one or both the calibrations seem a bit off, that could be helpful in case you were to contact support. As a side note...: There is one thing that has bugged me about the 'Spyder'-series, and that is the fact that it is in some use cases too reliant on a profile for it to give any sort of accurate result when calibrating any sort of display. A kind of "you can't have light without the dark"-type of thing. Instead of the profile being used for a quality control, as a kind of reference and comparison against the changes that you are making while calibrating, if you will. The 'Spyder'-profiles act more like a bigger defining part of the equation, if one were to disable the profile post-calibration. Things definitely don't seem right at all. Which really sucks if your use case/scenario doesn't utilize/rely on a profile in any way, shape or form. In any traditional way anyway... Not all software/apps use or rely on profiles, so calibrating according to a specific one that does and then switching over to something that does not look very often way off in comparison. Sorry for the little rant there. Maybe it bothers me more than just a little. I know that as a software, the 'Calman'-calibration tool gives the user the option to choose to what degree one would like to rely on profiles or not. The problem is that for the version(s) of this tool with the most customizable calibration(s), it will cost you an arm and a leg. The huge plus, on the other hand, is the fact that one has a lot of different hardware options to choose from when using 'Calman' compared to 'Spyder', one can even use the 'Spyder'-hardware if you like. -----
I'm having the exact same problem with my Spyder X Pro. Datacolor says to calibrate with lights off and professional printer says lights on - I'm going bonkers trying to get a calibration.
Agree with all your comments on monitor cal & the spider products, I have been using spider products for years as a professional sports photographer, and I’ve e found the calibration to be critical to ensure edited images are true to life, & how you not only want them, but also how you remember the shots you captured. I envy the monitor you mention you use, I use BenQ which works well also with the spider cal system, however sports photography does not pay to the level of events and weddings sadly - ha. Cheers from the west coast & keep up the excellent content!
Great use and perspective!
Can I also calibrate my OLED TV in some way with this Sensor + Software? (without ICC profil then)
Maybe? I haven’t tried it on a tv
I bought the Spyder package that includes the printer calibration so that everything from shooting to editing to printing was fully calibrated and under control. I also fine tuned my printing profiles for the Epson photo poster printer at my local Walgreens so that I get the same quality results as a pro photo lab, within 1 hour and up to 36x24 landscape for less than $20 (and up to half off that since there’s almost always a coupon on!). Add to a photo/poster frame and charge the customer $300 per print! Gone are the days where the color isn’t exactly as I remember shooting it. I can’t go back to anything short of perfect color rendition.
Nice!
I am using two 45" HDTVs as monitors (ROKU TVs from different mfg years) and I can never make them look identical. Will this calibration tool work?
That's exactly what Spyder is saying it can help you with!
@VanessaJoy thank you, can two Monitors hooked up to the same Video card of a PC be calibrated individually?
Is there any difference to the spyderx elite (version 1) other than the software?
I do believe improvements have been made in the device as well
So if you are using a laptop and editing in different locations you should calibrate every time since the room conditions change?
Yes I believe so
Hi to all,i am pretty new in photography, so any help would be great.
I have benq(found brand new)sw271 so what y all suggest. Is spyder good?
Ty
It’ll calibrate it nicely!
I use a Spider X to calibrate my Eizo screen but Eizo use their own software to do the calculations. I recently had to upgrade from an older Spider that was no longer supported.
I was using a Spyder 3 until now. Today it will be upgraded to a Spyder X pro - the cheapest version, which is enough for all applications.
Hi would this work with the MacBook Pro ?
Yeah definitely
Is the Ultra ONLY for high brightness/HDR displays, or will it work just as well on older monitors as well? For $30 I rather just get the nicer one and future proof if it does work with say... a 7 year old Imac display haha. Thanks.
It works well for all monitors ☺️
This at least reminded me to recalibrate!
do these work on curved monitors?
Hmmmm I’m not entirely sure, I think they would though
Do they work on lap tops?
Yup!
Thank you. A sincere observation if I may...Nice eye makeup.
Take care and keep safe.
Thanks!
I have used the spyder pro to calibrate. I wasn't impressed. My monitor looked very warm and my laptop which I have hooked up to my large monitor calibrated very differently.
Maybe I should try it again since the software has been upgraded?
I've never been able to get my laptop to match my monitor which is very frustrating. I will do sample prints before I post any photos that are potentially money makers. I shoot mainly sports-high school and college football and mainly for the joy of being able to be on the sidelines with the players and for the love of the game-well and my son is coach! 😂
If I do any portrait work then I'll print samples before posting.
But there has to be a better way.... so maybe I'll try calibrating again.
😊
Try with the new software - I can’t say I ever had it come out warm previously though
Looks like the new software is not compatible with the older sensors like mine, the Spyder X Pro. But I don't have any issues when making my own prints.
@@darrend5489 Your comment above about the color being too warm after calibrating with the Spyder X Pro is the exact problem I'm having as well. I calibrated with the datacolor specs and then when I went to use a printer, I used their specs and I can't get the my monitor to match their test prints.
What wrriten on your lefr arm? Its in hebrew?
It is
OK Photo Goddess bare with me here a sec ! I never have ever calibrated a monitor but recently l have seen the error in my ways! for 20 bucks more I would go for the Ultra however how about the X Pro for less than half the price of these? Your brilliance in this matter would be greatly appreciated!
Honestly if you’re just calibrating one monitor I’d go with the “lesser” of the two ☺️ it’ll do the job
@@VanessaJoy Thanks for your reply! I thought about it and I have several monitors that are HDR so I decided to go the extra mile! It's just money right?🤑
The ColorReader looks crazy. I want one!
Also the difference of $30USD is like a bazillion Cdn dollars up here. Mostly kidding 😬.
Its sooooo fun!
eeeeh why should i choose spyder elite???????
Why not?
I love this jump cut, your hands disappear to another frame
🤷🏻♀️
When you calibrate, just make sure all your light s are off and your screen is turned up to the max brightness. If you don't do this, you'll get a very dim screen. Hopefully they have changed this in the new version, as that is what I have to do to get a good calibration from the older model.
Absolutely not the way to do it.
Yeah I'd like to know this too. I had one many many years ago and I had to just toss it in the trash eventually because it was so weird and wanted my screen to be at like 1% brightness.
I have a lot of natural light in my office so it was fairly bright when I did this and I didn’t have that problem so hopefully that’s been updated ☺️
-----
@pinkflamingos69
-----
- Just like you explained, I remember many years ago...
I believe it was back around when the 'Spyder 3' or 'Spyder 4' was released.
Posts popped up all over the web on many different types of forums.
People either felt that the end result was too dark or too bright.
The people at Datacolor recommend one to set the display back to its' factory default setting before starting any sort of calibration.
And I've also read a lot of different comments on forums that disabling any and all sorts of enhancements modes before starting calibration is also a very good rule of thumb in this regard.
Just as an added precaution, one might also want to disable and do a test calibration without the light sensor active.
There might be a bug somewhere...
It could be the software or the light sensor, or even both if you are really unlucky.
So doing separate calibrations, one with the light sensor turned off and then one with it turned on.
That could help with figuring out where the problem lies.
If one or both the calibrations seem a bit off, that could be helpful in case you were to contact support.
As a side note...:
There is one thing that has bugged me about the 'Spyder'-series, and that is the fact that it is in some use cases too reliant on a profile for it to give any sort of accurate result when calibrating any sort of display.
A kind of "you can't have light without the dark"-type of thing.
Instead of the profile being used for a quality control, as a kind of reference and comparison against the changes that you are making while calibrating, if you will.
The 'Spyder'-profiles act more like a bigger defining part of the equation, if one were to disable the profile post-calibration.
Things definitely don't seem right at all.
Which really sucks if your use case/scenario doesn't utilize/rely on a profile in any way, shape or form.
In any traditional way anyway...
Not all software/apps use or rely on profiles, so calibrating according to a specific one that does and then switching over to something that does not look very often way off in comparison.
Sorry for the little rant there.
Maybe it bothers me more than just a little.
I know that as a software, the 'Calman'-calibration tool gives the user the option to choose to what degree one would like to rely on profiles or not.
The problem is that for the version(s) of this tool with the most customizable calibration(s), it will cost you an arm and a leg.
The huge plus, on the other hand, is the fact that one has a lot of different hardware options to choose from when using 'Calman' compared to 'Spyder', one can even use the 'Spyder'-hardware if you like.
-----
I'm having the exact same problem with my Spyder X Pro. Datacolor says to calibrate with lights off and professional printer says lights on - I'm going bonkers trying to get a calibration.
Nice ad
and what was thepoint of all your talk. and not showing how to calibrate or results??
Literally walked through step by step in the middle of the video…
My favorite part is where you DON'T show the product, DON'T show it actually working, and DON'T s how it on the actual monitor.
Walking L
So I guess at 1:52 you went blind deaf and dumb or is that your normal state?