Worlds most EXPENSIVE volt meter! Put to the test. The SMD VM1
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- In this video I unbox and review the smd vm1 car audio volt meter and go mover basic install and features. Thanks for watching!
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I've had mine for years now, still working great. Easily the best voltmeter I've had 👍
Def the best I've had. I have 3, 1 is monitoring my ultracap, feeding amps, 1 on the back batteries and the 3rd is watching the cars batteries in the front
Another great video. Love the hoodie
SMD looks like a good voltmeter to me everybody don't forget to go sign the RPM Act if you want to continue to mod your cars much love
Signed mine for the second time today
@@kswis they got game we got Games 2 much appreciated thank you on behalf of myself and on behalf of the aftermarket performance industry fight against all them three-letter government organizations stealing people's hard-earned cash and tell us how to live
How do I sign?
The look alone makes it worth it if you grew up with vu meters 👍. Who else has anything close?
Bravo excellent good video review on the SMD volt meter
Thanks man!
Cool vid I'm glad I haven't I nstalled my stinger meter yet ordering this one I'm gonna put my stinger meter in the back with the amps and batts
Next Level what do you think of that SMD device that controls the amp cooling fans, and for the record I would definitely like to see you test that out cuz I've been thinking about getting it but I don't know how reliable it is, and how user-friendly it is
I might test out more of his stuff. I don’t have any experience with those as of yet tho
Thanks for your honest opinion, for a second there i thought you were going to sell out. Nothing against SMD products, but they are Expensive and aren't for everybody.
I agree
I like your videos, but this meter isn't worth it to me. What about the increments within 3 🤔?
It definitely has its ups and downs.
My impression has always been those are hard to read. Too many numbers cluttered.
I’m hoping I get use the the position of where the LED is, and not have to actually look at the numbers
@@NextLevelCarAudio you will get used to it pretty quick. I have one and I’d say it would take about 1-2 weeks to really remember without looking at numbers.
I agree they should be adjustable/tunable and also I see a huge missed opportunity here to where they very well could have also included a digital voltmeter in the center so you have both imo that is how I would want it... Shoot me a msg brother I gotta show you the new toys 😝💪🔊
Right
For the amount of money he is asking for your suggestions should be standard. dB Werk and Sparked Innovations offer better options in my opinion and they are way cheaper.
@@KvnWlsnyet they are not as accurate when the bass hits and it climbs back up as fast as the smd volt meter reason for the price difference
If I could find a good place, the thing I would install a spectrum analyzer, still like the digital look with a bunch of readouts!!!
Nice
I agree anything under 12.5v should be red. I charge at 14.8v and rest at 13.4v and I think there should be four colors instead of three... red, orange, yellow and green. I also feel like there should still be some kind of numerical display in conjunction with the VU display especially for the amount of money you're expected to pay for the meter.
Aside from that I have to assume it's a solid product but until a v2 model is released with my suggestions are implemented, I'll spend my money elsewhere.
Great video
Thanks
Mine isn’t moving with the beat foe whatever reason…thoughts?
I have that and the distortion meter in my yukon. It works but I'm not really impressed considering the money I spent on them
Nice voltmeter 👍
Steve makes good stuff but I'll pass on this. It's hard to read and too be honest if your worried about .0001 volt, you need to spend more on your electrical.
I have a Mechman set to 15.8 ,cold start is 16v an I didn’t pay attention to the Max numbers when I purchased one so mine stays maxed out in the red zone. I wish they made it 10-18v. Maybe the V2 model will have these extra features. Thanks for another video!!
I personally don't like it because i don't see good the tiny numbers. But it looks really nice.
A question for people who know more than me...Right now I am running 1200 watts on a 160 amp alternator. I ran it at full tilt (music not constant sine wave)earlier today and put my multimeter on the battery and at idle..The lowest it would dip was 13.2 volts and on average would stay around 13.5 volts..I plan on adding a Rockford Fosgate Prime 300x4 that runs 50 watts rms x's 4 for my 4 door speakers...so 200 watts rms will be added to my system...What type of electrical upgrade for optimum performance would you suggest? In your opinion do you think I could get away with just adding a 250 amp alternator without adding a second battery to stay around 13.5 / 14.0 volts with 1400 watts running? Or keep the stock alternator and go with a second battery? I just can't afford to do both (alternator +battery)....Thanks for any input and of course any advice given will be considered just that...."Advice " and wouldn't hold it as anything more💯🙏
Hey buddy, I’ll go ahead and answer you here... either way you are doing a good thing. Solid electrical is the foundation of a good car audio build. Think of the alternator like the heart in a body, it pumps blood(current) to your body/system so your major organs can function. Think of your battery as your lungs, they only function if they are being supplied with oxegenated blood from the heart, no matter how big or strong your lungs are. Not enough blood flow, not enough oxygen for body. If it was me, I’d upgrade to a HO alt with big 3 done. That way, your supply is taken care of, and you are not straining your stock alt to keep up. Because yes, extra batteries are reserve power but also a load on your alternator and can put a lot of stress on it. Like a fat man with clogged arteries. Which by the way, arteries are you power and ground runs.... having clogged arteries is like running 4 gauge when you should be running 0.
@@NextLevelCarAudio Thank you very much💯🙏
One more question and I will stop ✋ 😂 what gauge wire would you recommend going from the amp to the subs..and does it make a significant difference in output when using lets sat 8 or 10 gauge, as opposed to 14 or 16 gauge?
Not a huge difference. But none the less, sufficient gauge should be used. 10 gauge minimum for subs and 8 gauge for high power setups. I’m thinking of switching to 4 gauge actually as I clamped over 17k watts during a 42hz burst.
Plus when people see 4 gauge going to my subs, they know I mean business lol 😂
I bought one of these, connected it to 14g wire and ran it to my sub Amp. Yellow=remote input on my Amp. Red =power input, black=ground input on the Amp. When i turned on my car the VM1 started smoking. What did I do wrong?
Wow.... never heard of that happen! Sorry. I’d definitely get ahold of them for a refund
I just bought one, I'm supposed to have heated seats, they didn't work when we bought it, didn't have a fuse in the slot. I put a fuse in the slot, and they still don't work. The switch doesn't even light up anymore. All the wiring under the seats is there. Lol couldn't I wire this thing into the switch and forget about putting a rocker in?
There are plenty of places to get +12 from. If your monitoring voltage from amp, then directly from there is best. If you are against using a toggle switch then use a relay
Where is your positive and neg running to? Friend of mine told me to run them both to the amp, but does the ground have to be ran back that far?
If your amps have a good/solid ground, Then you can run your ground wire to any chassis ground point nearby and just run the positive wire to amp. That’s what I did
I want your junk drawer lol. Great video always enjoy
😆
Hope meade makes a digital one.
I believe he has a version 2 that he runs up to 18v. I'm not sure but I know that he has made a second version
Its called the vm-1hv reads up to 20.2v
A piece of window tint will help with the brightness.
where do you have the volt meter connected to. i was told to have it connected to the secondary battery then was told to connect it to the amps connection. what is the right way
I have mines directly connected to the amps inputs. A 14 gauge run of + and - from the amp inputs all the way to the meter. Most accurate way to show what voltage the amp is getting
Thank you! I was wondering the same thing
Are these thing pretty pointless if your car already displays your voltage on your HUD?
Maybe this SMD meter would be more accurate/live time than the one built into my car?
It is definitely more “real time/reactive” I would say
No the one that's built in your car is for up front you want to see what's happening in the the back where all the power is going to your amps
@@lamontlawrence8557 yessir. I ordered a glowshift digital gauge to match my boost gauge also made by them.
Someone else recently told me basically the same you just said.
I have my gauge wired upfront to my only car battery(supplies my car and sub amp), it shows exactly the same as my dash but actually visualizes the voltage drops immediately rather than a gradual drop over time that my dash shows.
But I've been told its even with the gauge I have, it's best to wire it to my amp directly if I'm trying to monitor what my subs are getting. so I'm probably going to try that soon. Or maybe just get a new gauge
Yes you gone need 0 gauge wire it's the only way to go plus a second deep cycle battery for the back and upgrade the wiring under the hood now if you got to get a high output alternator and you should be good to go
I would've bought one of those,but my car has an in cluster digital read out built in , seems to be accurate, but another good videos, !!!
That’s cool 😎
Nice going old school Gangsters Paradise.
Hell yeah 😆
BTW,, where do you sell those hats??? I really want one, if I can support you buying one I want to be the first one... Toms up video liked...
The 12v to 16v voltmeter is better if you ask me, Anything below 12v is getting sketchy
Agree
They’re not worth it. I bought 3 smd om1s and the solder joints busted on all 3 of em as soon as i took em out the package.
🥱
If you don't have a switch does it stay on?
Not if you connect it to an accessory power source. Like your amp turn on wire for example
@@NextLevelCarAudio I was considering the relay I use for the remote switches. If you had not mentioned the switch I wouldn't have know until after I install it on Saturday I appreciate your content
Thanks :)
What do you think the best meter is
This one if you don’t mind paying the price…. But some say it ain’t worth it
@@NextLevelCarAudio I feel like I hear that about all of em haha. Everyone’s got an opinion so I guess it all depends. I just want to get one that’s gonna be accurate as possible
Hard to beat this one. That’s why I am running it now.
@@NextLevelCarAudio right on man thanks
How did you hook it up?
Just to positive and negative at fuse distro panel. Then switched/fused power to control when it comes on
Which color is the remote wire for the amp
Shoot man, I don’t remember! Sorry :/
80 what ....... does it come with a bass knob
Nope. Just what you see 😝
Steve uses pure white gold wires for the volt meter that's why it cost 80 dollars.. 🤑🤑🤑
😆
I was thinking the same hahaha... Steve look for an engineering person to make hid ideas possible, first the input opinion how do I want it to work and boom. It kinda works but everything is extremely over priced..
@@ricardojuarez291 well those stingers are trash af digital read out are inaccurate af ..it's doesn't ever have to calibrated..it's worth the money..if you can't afford it..just don't buy stick to the garbage meters
@@slow_rednline4874 I don't have meters I don't need them,. I can afford them without problems but IS NOT WORTH IT.. hope you get the point.
In my opinion not Worth it, all this artefacts are based on who ever invented the multimeter that's all I can Said,, it's actually the same thing but with Fancy leds right??? If I'm wrong,, it's because Im missing something..
14.9 or over not good for lithium??
Not for the cyber series. Some are good for high voltage tho
@@NextLevelCarAudio I seen you where charging at 14.9...and 15 on cold starting
Yep, that’s fine for short periods. But not for sustained. I drop to 14.7-14.8 after warm up which is perfect for these
How do you know if a amplifer if blown???
Does it play? Or does it not even turn on? Immediately goes into protect? What’s the symptoms
Its a hifonics 600watts amplifer 1 year old. I was tuning the bass amplifer so I lower the 4 channel amp. When I was done I turn up the 4 channel amp again but i noticed the logo wasn't on. So check fuse every thing is good, I check connections everything is good to. All the cable's and fuses are good. So im guessing the amplifer just blown on me 😓
@@bigboyalvearz0831 maybe if you have a stock electrical systems in your car it can't handle the power you asking from it with that amplifier, I'd use a lower power amplifier and check again. 😁
Also, did you check the grounds?
Yes every cable is good ground and power is good, i been running it for about a year now. And it just stop playing. Is there anyway you can test out the amplifer to see if its blown??
You have too good of electrical to get down into the 11s 5:56
Yep 😂
Quite an improvement over the free ones we get from D4S lol I must have a half dozen of those or more lol
😆
They are worth the money hands down
My 5 cent volt meter works just fine. Not sure why I'd spend $79.95 just for a SMD logo that does the same thing but without numbers being displayed. Steve is just laughing on his way to the bank. Nothing he makes is worth paying his prices imo. There's plenty of smaller companies that offer great quality without having to pay for that ego markup.
@@djwonderbrad Everyone has an opinion and option. SMD helps make the amp dynos. They are wide used all over the world. His work speaks for itself. SMD is blunt and extremely honest
@@harveyr2546 SMD doesn't build the amp dynos....
@@harveyr2546 he does nice work. But that doesn't mean his volt meters are worth $80 just because it has his initials on it.
@@harveyr2546 please show me how this meter is worth $80.
i have one its cute hard to read not worth the money but it shows voltage
Hard to read ..can you not see very well🤔
@@slow_rednline4874 stay in your lane
The prices on SMD products rub me the wrong way
They are pricey 😆
So dude if you're getting out of car audio, let me get your lights. Haha or let me know what kind those flashing lights are
I’m not getting out of car audio. Just not pursuing making UA-cam videos. Lol
I'm guessing it's not worth it
I'll pass
No it's not, you're buying into free advertising for someone else to get rich.
Things are overpriced af. I wouldn't pay $20 for one of his meters considering you could buy about a dozen different kinds that all do the exact same thing for the same price 🤷♂️
Charlie Manson
Right...!
@@queenqutie9236 I literally bought a bag of Chinese volt meters and gave them out like candy while I was installing. Majority of them were either right on the money or .2v+/- difference from my DMM. Worst one out of the whole bag was .6 off my DMM
People always crying about saving pennies if price is your issue with car audio get a new hobby🤣